Originally Posted by Otto Pylot
A true calibration requires the use of a light meter and software. Every tv has different component tolerances so the idea of calibrating a tv is to adjust the particular panel's component tolerances to a reference standard. Using someone else's settings is generally frowned upon because you won't be calibrating your tv, no matter how well it looks. All you'll be doing is adjusting your tv to someone else's, even if they actually calibrated theirs. Calibrating, or even adjusting the individual sources, can be a nightmare because the source quality can vary considerably from program to program. Most just calibrate via a blu-ray player because video fidelity is more important to them for movies than cable/sat televisoni. The blu-ray player needs to be set at default settings so that no artificial processing is going on to affect the signal path and the tv also has to have all artificial processing disabled as well. Some have had luck transferring the calibrated settings to another source input but that depends on how accurate your tv comes from the factory which again, is dependent on how close the component tolerances were to "perfect".
This of course is very correct and true, but the reason this discussion got restarted was that people end up trying someone's calibration settings from essentially a completely different TV (the A panels) on their newer B panels since Will's settings are the original ones at the start of this thread. This makes the resulting image orders of magnitude worse than if you simply copied someone else's calibration settings for the exact same TV model.
I personally own a colorimeter and have calibrated 2 of these B spec panels (I returned the first one) and their calibrations were very close. My previous Panny also had copied settings from those posted by a Pro calibrator here (I didn't own a colorimeter back then). While I'm sure my set wasn't "calibrated", it was still much better and closer to a calibrated look than the default settings that the TV ships with. It's only been much more recently that a lot of TVs have been shipping with Movie modes that are somewhat remotely in the ballpark of being near "calibrated"
While I know that the practice of copying settings is frowned upon by many here, in the absence of having a colorimeter to perform your own calibration, I see no harm in other people trying calibration settings and sticking with them if they subjectively find the picture quality to be more pleasing. Copying basic settings at the very least will get you much closer to a decent Gamma and turn off a lot of gimmicks that degrade picture quality. That's why I break down my calibration settings (in my sig) into the simple stuff that everyone can try, and hide the more detailed stuff like 10 point white balance settings that are almost certainly going to be different across different sets.
Originally Posted by Oblio
I am actually very comfortable with electronics and high voltage, but did not want to go inside the set until I have verified that what I am seeing is not due to tweaking settings.
I understood the 10 point white balance was for fine tuning at ten individual grey scale levels, I figured possibly the "white" image was actually a variety of grey scale areas across the screen and therefor tuning and balancing the color for each greyscale level might bring the overall full screen into uniform balance at all greyscale levels.
I had not been able to find any solid info on the problem and the tech Samsung sent me to look at the screen seemed not to know very much at all. Pretty shocking to me actually.
Your comments are the most significant info I have come close to yet on the problem and it's source.
Is there a place I can find schematics for the set, setup and test voltage reference info to hardware setup?
If you look through the pictures I posted in the post I linked to, one of them has a Red and Green circle that I drew in the image highlighting one of the potentiometers and test points (TP on board). You will find similar ones for the main voltages that can be tweaked and should also find a test point for Ground once you open up the back panel.