Pioneer PDP5020FD 8 Blue Blinking Lights - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 18 Old 11-04-2013, 09:58 AM - Thread Starter
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I was just wondering if anyone had experience or knowledge on dealing with the 8 blue blinking lights on the Pioneer Plasma. I have done some research and it seems to be either a Power Supply or the Voltage Regulator chip sitting on the input board. If anyone has had this issue or can shine some light on what it could be. Please post.
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post #2 of 18 Old 12-08-2013, 02:14 PM
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Yup, I got the 8-blue-blink thing going on. When I hit the display button the remote, I get one orange blink to go with it.

I'm assuming that you found this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZNAv0m5f7M

It looks like the problem can be that, or something totally different. At any rate, I ordered the regulator mentioned in the video, so my next step is to remove the backplate, try his diagnosis, and if it's the same, replace the chip. Will update in a day or so when that happens.
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post #3 of 18 Old 12-08-2013, 11:06 PM
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I'VE GOT the exact same problem and the trouble started three days ago. I took the 5020 model in 2011 and has been using it to this day but very sporadically. Hence my unit is so under-utilized that I lament doubly more the condition it has fell in when it should be giving even ten more years of faithful service. I observed it for the last three days if the disorder shows a consistent pattern - tried if the HDMI cable is botched but it can't be as its the one from the Oppo 103D, or if the Kuro can be helped by a voltage regulator - and indeed it is. I'm very glad I found this thread and has been led to check the Youtube solution, particularly in zeroing in on the IC part that's causing it all. I plea to the replier to post here his result because I'd take the route that the Youtube technician has demonstrated. William....
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post #4 of 18 Old 04-22-2014, 07:20 AM
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Hi,
I am seeing the same 8 Blue Blinking light problem on my 5020FD unit (bought in 2009). First it was intermittent - would see the issue and if I just unplug the tv and dont use it for couple days, it would work fine. But it got worse the last time - it would not turn on even after its unplugged for 3 days.

Does anyone tried this voltage regular swap method shown in youtube? if so, where did you bought the part required and if its easy to do at home. Would really appreciate any input on this (note that am asking about pdf5020fd - there is a big thread for an exactly same problem for 8th generation unit - want to hear from anyone who fixed/resolved this on a 9th generataion 5020 unit). Thanks in advance.

-nk2006
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post #5 of 18 Old 10-02-2014, 06:22 PM
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I am dealing with the same issue. I bought the IC regulators on http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...E1CT-ND/718327. I ordered two just in case one was damaged in shipping. I also noticed that the AWW1352 board actually has two on it, so I may just replace both to see it that solves the issue. I will report back with my findings to see if this fixes my issue. I should have everything by tuesday or wednesday.
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post #6 of 18 Old 10-07-2014, 03:56 PM
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I replaced the IC regulator today. It turned on the first time and I was hoping my issue was resolved. It still gives me the 8 blue blinks. Oh well. I am now going through the ebay seller that is offering to repair the boards. Hopefully this resolves my issue.
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post #7 of 18 Old 10-18-2014, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by germanplumber View Post
I replaced the IC regulator today. It turned on the first time and I was hoping my issue was resolved. It still gives me the 8 blue blinks. Oh well. I am now going through the ebay seller that is offering to repair the boards. Hopefully this resolves my issue.
Just got my boards back from the ebay seller Kcrownie. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Repair-Servi...item19ec02f2fa. He was able to repair my boards to fix my 8 Blink issue on my PDP5020FD and I am loving my Pioneer. After looking at both the digital and analog boards, there is more than one of those IC regulators, and I am glad I just sent it to someone that knew what to find and fix.
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post #8 of 18 Old 12-27-2014, 11:00 PM
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I had the 8 blinking lights early tonight turned it off for an 1hr.. now works fine.. but also had some picture size changes automatic today.. Should I watch for the lights some more is this a progressive issues that it gets worse..
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post #9 of 18 Old 07-21-2015, 06:00 PM
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How did the repair service work out ?
did u ever find out what on the main board is the problem ?

seems like it isnt that easy removing those ribbon cables on the main board.

also wonder if u had to put in your settings again

thanks
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post #10 of 18 Old 07-22-2015, 10:10 AM
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Had this happen to me twice, one time was the audio board, 2nd time was the main board.
Im pretty sure I have a new audio board packed up somewhere.

Edited to add removing ribbon cables is very easy once u understand how latch works..
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post #11 of 18 Old 08-12-2015, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enf1945 View Post
How did the repair service work out ?
did u ever find out what on the main board is the problem ?

seems like it isnt that easy removing those ribbon cables on the main board.

also wonder if u had to put in your settings again

thanks
So I saw you sent me a PM, and I figured it would be easier and better to respond in here for the next guy looking to get a resolution to this problem. I was having the 8 blink code error on the TV. I know how to take apart TVs and I do basic repair work (board swaps, not board repair) and taking apart the kuro is a SOB. There are tons of screws (over 40, most TVs I have repair have 8 to 20) and I took several pictures as I was going to not lose my place and location of where everything went.I ordered the parts and got the tools to do it myself. I replaced one IC regulator and tried my repair work and it wasn't fixed. I later realized on that board their are like 2 or 3, but I may have not replaced the right one. I used Kcrownie on eBay. Here is the http://www.ebay.com/itm/Repair-Servi...-/121610791388 link. As long as you can get the TV back off, and get the board out, you should be good to go. Shipping was quick and I had my board back in less than 2 weeks. I had the work done in October of last year, and it is still going strong, with not a single problem.

The IC regulators seem to be the issue. The ribbon cables are easy to disconnect. Lift flap up, and gently pull ribbon out. the hard one is the white one connecting the HDMI main board to the I/O assy board. That one I needed needlenose pliers and had to be extremely careful.

I didn't have to do any settings reset after the board swap.

Hopefully that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.

HERE WAS A COMMENT FROM ANOTHER REPAIR THREAD
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Based upon the Service Manual for the PDP-5020FD, it is the main assembly board AWW-1371.

If you have experience opening up and replacing boards in a cell-phone, you MAY have the skills.

However, you'll need either the Service Remote or the aftermarket control software, as you also need to do both the FINAL Setup, and 8.7 Execute 4-5 Auto Adjust of 6.2 [4] initilize

PM for a copy of the service manual. It's too big to attach.

My Digital TV tuner section isn't working anymore, so I'm looking at getting the part and paying the local Pioneer certified repair shop to do the part install.

Good luck!

:-) neil
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Replacing the I/O assembly did not require any settings to be reset, but if you replace the HDMI main board you may have to based on what neil says. Here is the link for that thread. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-pl...l#post36217186

Last edited by germanplumber; 08-12-2015 at 08:04 PM.
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post #12 of 18 Old 06-06-2019, 06:13 AM
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I know this is an old thread but folks still love their Pioneer plasma TVs. I've been plowing through the PDP-6020FD service manual as I'm diagnosing a friend's TV.


8 blue blinks indicates a problem communicating between chips via an I2C (TwoWire) buss which is a common microcontroller buss for control and data. The 8 blue blinks are augmented by orange blinks seen when you press the Display button. The orange blinks tell you which components are not communicating. The service manual offers a guide complete for 8 blue blinks. Most are from "Main" (IC7003) except for 6-orange.


There are (2) I2C busses related to 8bb: one for 5, 6, and 8 orange blinks. I haven't received a reply regarding the orange blinks, but I expect to see one code for an individual component or alternating codes for a common voltage or buss problem. I know many have replaced the 1.8V voltage regulator IC7951 which powers IC8201 via connector IO1/CN7501 and maybe more.


I've attached the quick reference card, then my Trello lists for I2C and power components. I hope this helps.
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post #13 of 18 Old 06-06-2019, 02:30 PM
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The good news is that 8 blinks is a common issue. You really don't need to put much thought into it yourself. Just pull the board and send it here.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Repair-Serv...kAAOSwewJTmuWG
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post #14 of 18 Old 06-06-2019, 09:39 PM
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My 6020 has developed this issue . Does any member here have a link to a video tutorial .

I have a donor 6020 that arrived with a cracked panel so I hope the internals are good .

And when there was no crawdad we ate sand .
You ate sand ?!
We ate sand .
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post #15 of 18 Old 06-07-2019, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunburnwilly View Post
My 6020 has developed this issue . Does any member here have a link to a video tutorial .

I have a donor 6020 that arrived with a cracked panel so I hope the internals are good .
Don't have a video but it is Plug and play. Swap audio board and the main board. Google trap switch also in case it's a factor.
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post #16 of 18 Old 06-09-2019, 11:10 AM
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Thanks for the reply

I think the pictures from the bay link are what I am looking for .

And when there was no crawdad we ate sand .
You ate sand ?!
We ate sand .
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post #17 of 18 Old 06-11-2019, 06:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunburnwilly View Post
My 6020 has developed this issue . Does any member here have a link to a video tutorial .

I have a donor 6020 that arrived with a cracked panel so I hope the internals are good .
While the set is in ShutDown mode and you see the 8 blue blinks, point your remote torward the IR sensor on the bottom right corner (opposite the LEDs) and press the Display button. You should then see the orange LED blink the subcategory code that can isolate the IC (and board) or voltage regulator to focus on.

You can check some of the major source voltages on two connectors: IO2 has 17V-17V-Gnd x 3 leads, IO5 has 6.5V-Gnd-3.4V(stby)-3.4V-Gnd-n/c-12V.
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post #18 of 18 Old 06-11-2019, 06:29 AM
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I had that exact problem on my Kuro 151fd. You can find parts on line but you have to do soldering. I know someone who attempted the fix and was unsuccessful. I ended up giving mine to the guy who sold me my OLED E6.
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