Samsung PN51F5300 â?? What a little gem! - i1Pro Calibration results inside - Page 36 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1051 of 2013 Old 09-01-2014, 02:38 PM
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Black level is determined by how they filmed or broadcast the program/show.Brightness control affects the mid low levels.Too high and image is washed out.The screen is always washed out on plasma unless it has a good filter or in a pitch black room.In order too get a near perfect calibration the voltages have too be within specification and all the other stuff calibrated,but you risk a fatal electrocution...In my opinion matching color temperature close too the color temperature in the room works well as that's the color of the black/ dark levels,and you will notice when the brightest/high contrast levels look way different than dark levels.

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post #1052 of 2013 Old 09-02-2014, 09:29 PM
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Played around with going to Warm1 color temp on my OTA and Blu Ray presets--it looks good, real good. As Orion posted, my eyes adjusted quickly and the dinginess I saw when I first switched from Cool and Standard was gone very quickly. I find it seems to make the image "pop" more than the cooler color temps. Real world outdoor images have a bit more "oomph" to them, mid day and afternoon sunlight appears to look closer to real sunlight.

I havent run the discs yet, but it seems to be a winner.
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post #1053 of 2013 Old 09-02-2014, 09:36 PM
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Before Chad B came out to calibrate my set, I was using Warm 1 and Standard out-of-the-box. I found it less objectionable to Warm 2 even if it skewed blue as that was more pleasant on the eyes compared to Warm 2's red push that was too annoying especially on whites. However, as I mentioned earlier, Chad's cal just blew away any of those settings. This set has very nice, very natural looking color now. Even though the blacks float, you don't really notice it much and the display maintains an excellent contrast. This set well exceeded my expectation and I'm coming from a Panasonic VT60.
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post #1054 of 2013 Old 09-03-2014, 07:00 PM
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*first time poster!*

I've been a lurker on AVS Forum for a while now as my wife was threatening to divorce me unless I upgraded our 5 year old 32" Samsung LCD.

As a new TV is cheaper than a divorce I finally overcame my cheapness and splurged on a new set - this Samsung 5300B 51". My wife and I are over-the-moon happy with how Netflix looks on the 5300B (we only watch Netflix - during the evenings when the room is dark). I watched Skyfall last evening, and the picture quality was stunning - deep inky blacks, brilliant colours, sharp picture and smooth motions. I'm no videophile, but it looked movie theatre quality to me.

Thanks for everyone on this post with the info about the "B" model ... my local store had just received a new shipment of 5300's a couple of months ago that were "B" models. My build date was May 2014. Also, thanks for the recommended settings:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terp03 View Post
Just got this TV (B version, TS02 panel, manufactured April 2014) and am floored by the picture. Judging by pervious posts, should I just have this on the following settings? I assume given the out of box settings that I shouldn't tinker with custom color space and white balance since the TV only has few hours on it and would need an actual collaboration before messing with that.

Picture Mode: Movie
Cell Light: 20
Contrast: 95
Brightness: 48
Sharpness: 12
Color: 50
Tint: G50 / R50
Color tone: Warm2
Turn off all processing
Black Optimizer: Dark Room
Color Space: Auto
Quote:
Originally Posted by orion2001 View Post
Those are perfect for out of box settings if you don't have a meter! I wish those settings could be stickied on the front post of both threads regarding the F5300 plasmas.
My take on this TV is it's an amazing looking TV and an amazing price. The only two small negatives I've noticed is a slight buzzing noise (which you can't hear when the sound is playing), and the screen is quite reflective so this TV wouldn't be ideal in a daytime/bright light setting. Evening or basement viewing is when this TV shines.
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post #1055 of 2013 Old 09-04-2014, 01:04 PM
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First time poster. I purchased the 51' 5300 off ABT electronics for $547 including shipping. I must have gotten the last one because right after my purchase it showed as being discontinued. Amazon currently has it at $699.


The shipper shows it being in transit so I'm hopeful of getting it by the weekend.
I have enjoyed reading this thread even though I probably only understand half of what you guys are talking about! I'm reading through the manual online so I have a little jump on it before it gets here.


Couple of quick questions. Should I wait for a period of time before trying any of these calibration settings listed here? If so how many hours of run time is recommended?


I read in the manual that it has some automatic pixel movement setting that is supposed to resist the ghosting of the still logos on the screen like ESPN or Fox News. Should this be turned off for calibration purposes?
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post #1056 of 2013 Old 09-04-2014, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith633 View Post
Couple of quick questions. Should I wait for a period of time before trying any of these calibration settings listed here? If so how many hours of run time is recommended?


I read in the manual that it has some automatic pixel movement setting that is supposed to resist the ghosting of the still logos on the screen like ESPN or Fox News. Should this be turned off for calibration purposes?
Out of the box, just use the basic Movie mode settings recommended by Terp03 and Orion2001 and quoted by BowlingGreen in the post immediately prior to yours. Those settings should serve you well until you undertake more extensive calibration. I used pixel shift on my set for the first 200 hours or so, but others on AVS say it's not necessary.

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post #1057 of 2013 Old 09-04-2014, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikwasi View Post
I used pixel shift on my set for the first 200 hours or so, but others on AVS say it's not necessary.
i.e., 16:9, as opposed to screen fit, which does not shift.
Your call, just avoid extensive viewing of 4:3 material or anything with static images (some video games).
Enjoy!
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post #1058 of 2013 Old 09-04-2014, 01:45 PM
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A happy note in regard to static logos: ESPN recently changed its standing logo (bottom right corner) to gray scale lettering as opposed to the bright white image the network used to display. That will ease my mind as I watch many, many games in Screen Fit over the upcoming football and basketball seasons.
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post #1059 of 2013 Old 09-05-2014, 05:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikwasi View Post
A happy note in regard to static logos: ESPN recently changed its standing logo (bottom right corner) to gray scale lettering as opposed to the bright white image the network used to display. That will ease my mind as I watch many, many games in Screen Fit over the upcoming football and basketball seasons.
Yeah, but now they keep that damn ticker at the bottom of the screen at all times. This not only takes away 10% of the screen real estate I'd rather them use to, you know, show actual sports, but it's IR just waiting to happen. This is why I usually watch the ESPN3 feed on Watch ESPN when possible, since they usually omit the ticker at the bottom of the screen. Even if I didn't have a plasma, that ticker would still tick me off.
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post #1060 of 2013 Old 09-05-2014, 01:47 PM
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Can owners of the F5300 51 inch a and b models confirm whether they have the blue green tinted line at the bottom of the screen across the width of the whole panel, a few inches above the bottom edge of the screen? It's been getting more and more noticeable on my pn51f5300afxza and I'd like to ideally get a panel without it if possible but don't know if all 51 inch models a and b have it or not. Also, if the a models all have it but not the b models do I have any shot of getting a b model instead of another a model panel?

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post #1061 of 2013 Old 09-05-2014, 01:54 PM
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It's worth mentioning right now I have both the 1 year manufacturer's warranty and a 5 year Sears extended one. After January it's just the Sears one.
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post #1062 of 2013 Old 09-05-2014, 01:55 PM
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So many of these posts are so right on i completely agree

Looking for Oculus and Kindergarten Cop digital copies
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post #1063 of 2013 Old 09-05-2014, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
Can owners of the F5300 51 inch a and b models confirm whether they have the blue green tinted line at the bottom of the screen across the width of the whole panel, a few inches above the bottom edge of the screen? It's been getting more and more noticeable on my pn51f5300afxza and I'd like to ideally get a panel without it if possible but don't know if all 51 inch models a and b have it or not. Also, if the a models all have it but not the b models do I have any shot of getting a b model instead of another a model panel?
I have the 51F5300 B model, and I have a very faint blue green tinted line at the bottom. I first noticed it when looking at slides to check for dead pixels, but I can honestly say I don't really see it watching normal content. It's really only visible when looking at a 100% white field slide, and I'm okay with that.
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post #1064 of 2013 Old 09-05-2014, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djsketchie View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
Can owners of the F5300 51 inch a and b models confirm whether they have the blue green tinted line at the bottom of the screen across the width of the whole panel, a few inches above the bottom edge of the screen? It's been getting more and more noticeable on my pn51f5300afxza and I'd like to ideally get a panel without it if possible but don't know if all 51 inch models a and b have it or not. Also, if the a models all have it but not the b models do I have any shot of getting a b model instead of another a model panel?
I have the 51F5300 B model, and I have a very faint blue green tinted line at the bottom. I first noticed it when looking at slides to check for dead pixels, but I can honestly say I don't really see it watching normal content. It's really only visible when looking at a 100% white field slide, and I'm okay with that.
I can see it with any bright uniform content or with blur from bright moving images like the road in a racing video game. I can also see it from anywhere in the room, which is up to 12 feet or so.
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post #1065 of 2013 Old 09-05-2014, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
I can see it with any bright uniform content or with blur from bright moving images like the road in a racing video game. I can also see it from anywhere in the room, which is up to 12 feet or so.
Sounds like a defect to me and something you should really try to have addressed by Samsung right now. Sears warranty may not mean much next year if there aren't any spare panels/TVs around to fix your TV.
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post #1066 of 2013 Old 09-05-2014, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
Can owners of the F5300 51 inch a and b models confirm whether they have the blue green tinted line at the bottom of the screen across the width of the whole panel, a few inches above the bottom edge of the screen? It's been getting more and more noticeable on my pn51f5300afxza and I'd like to ideally get a panel without it if possible but don't know if all 51 inch models a and b have it or not. Also, if the a models all have it but not the b models do I have any shot of getting a b model instead of another a model panel?
I can double check when I get home tonight but I have a 51" B model and have never seen this. I have also viewed all white slides (as well as other colors and gradients) to check the screen uniformity out of the box. Perhaps this issue has developed since then and I just haven't noticed (not home now to check), but I can confirm that it was definitely NOT like that when it was new. Very strange...
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post #1067 of 2013 Old 09-05-2014, 03:35 PM
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I just checked and I have no such line on my BFXA.
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post #1068 of 2013 Old 09-05-2014, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orion2001 View Post
Sounds like a defect to me and something you should really try to have addressed by Samsung right now. Sears warranty may not mean much next year if there aren't any spare panels/TVs around to fix your TV.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Static-C View Post
I can double check when I get home tonight but I have a 51" B model and have never seen this. I have also viewed all white slides (as well as other colors and gradients) to check the screen uniformity out of the box. Perhaps this issue has developed since then and I just haven't noticed (not home now to check), but I can confirm that it was definitely NOT like that when it was new. Very strange...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh128 View Post
I just checked and I have no such line on my BFXA.
Not sure whether to get the panel replaced now in case the replacement has a similar issue or dead pixels (I had another 51" F5300 in January for a week that had 3 dead pixels in the middle of the screen and a similar blue green line in the same place, though more faint). Also, I wonder if the service tech will consider this a defect and not normal performance for this model. The thing is I notice such issues more than the average TV owner since I'm more observant and partly due to my OCD. The issue is quite visible with a significant percentage of the total content (I'd say mostly with cable TV and video games, movies less so and with 25% to 33% of total content watched overall) I view but with darker/less uniform content there are times when the issue is not visible at all. Perhaps I need to have some content and test patterns ready if/when I chose to call the service tech, so they can see the issue more easily than with random content.

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post #1069 of 2013 Old 09-05-2014, 09:34 PM
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I can now confirm my set does NOT have this issue (whew!). I figured I would have noticed (I was diagnosed with OCD as a teen) but I wanted to make sure before I posted back. I'd say someone owes you some service like yesterday!
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post #1070 of 2013 Old 09-06-2014, 07:07 AM
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Quick question. I have tried some of the settings offered. Most have Cell @ 20.

Is that setting for all content? Or only for movies?

I ask because I'm getting some bad IR when watching FIOS with Cell @ 20.

I also watch this display in my bedroom which I have total control of the lighting.

So needing the TV to be real bright is not really necessary.

Sent from my G2 via Tapatalk
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post #1071 of 2013 Old 09-06-2014, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFJ 96 View Post
Quick question. I have tried some of the settings offered. Most have Cell @ 20.

Is that setting for all content? Or only for movies?

I ask because I'm getting some bad IR when watching FIOS with Cell @ 20.

I also watch this display in my bedroom which I have total control of the lighting.

So needing the TV to be real bright is not really necessary.

Sent from my G2 via Tapatalk
Cell Light should be left at 20 and you should use contrast to control light output. Lowering cell light from 20 increases ABL activity, which means scenes with full screen white or bright colors will dim more relative to normal and dark scenes. Lowering contrast below 95 can cause the 10-pt white balance/gamma controls to be displaced, but I believe the B models may not have that issue as DavidHir got his 51" b model pro calibrated and it did not have any issues with the contrast setting affecting the 10-pt controls.

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post #1072 of 2013 Old 09-06-2014, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Static-C View Post
I can now confirm my set does NOT have this issue (whew!). I figured I would have noticed (I was diagnosed with OCD as a teen) but I wanted to make sure before I posted back. I'd say someone owes you some service like yesterday!
Good to know not all sets have this issue.

The main thing holding me back from getting another panel for my 'a' model is that I could get one with more/worse issues and having 3 dead pixels on another set I had for a week before I got my current one was discouraging. Dead pixels definitely bother me more (especially since they are quite a bit more visible in terms of pixel structure in the 51" F5300 vs. the 50" Panasonic S60... I had one dead one on the S60 and it was a lot harder to see than the ones on the F5300).

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post #1073 of 2013 Old 09-06-2014, 11:54 AM
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Thanks for your responses to my questions gentlemen. Well it didn't show up Friday liked I hope so I'm guessing Monday or Tuesday now. I see Amazon increased to like $750. I'm feeling good about this purchase.


Wanted to mention a couple things in relation to calibration settings. Our living room is dark, even during the day. Almost to the point you need a lamp to read in the afternoon. We have 2 windows both facing east with a large shade tree right outside that blocks the morning sun.
Would this scenario require some tweaking on my part to achieve the best picture in this environment or can I still just follow the previous post.


Also I watch a lot of hockey. Will there be a issue with the white ice that will call for different setting?
Thanks again!
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post #1074 of 2013 Old 09-06-2014, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
Cell Light should be left at 20 and you should use contrast to control light output. Lowering cell light from 20 increases ABL activity, which means scenes with full screen white or bright colors will dim more relative to normal and dark scenes. Lowering contrast below 95 can cause the 10-pt white balance/gamma controls to be displaced, but I believe the B models may not have that issue as DavidHir got his 51" b model pro calibrated and it did not have any issues with the contrast setting affecting the 10-pt controls.
I have an A panel and any settings I use with Cell @ 20 no matter how I set contrast gives me IR.

I'll keep messing with the settings until I find some that work.

Thanks for settings and feedback

Sent from my G2 via Tapatalk
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post #1075 of 2013 Old 09-06-2014, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFJ 96 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
Cell Light should be left at 20 and you should use contrast to control light output. Lowering cell light from 20 increases ABL activity, which means scenes with full screen white or bright colors will dim more relative to normal and dark scenes. Lowering contrast below 95 can cause the 10-pt white balance/gamma controls to be displaced, but I believe the B models may not have that issue as DavidHir got his 51" b model pro calibrated and it did not have any issues with the contrast setting affecting the 10-pt controls.
I have an A panel and any settings I use with Cell @ 20 no matter how I set contrast gives me IR.

I'll keep messing with the settings until I find some that work.

Thanks for settings and feedback

Sent from my G2 via Tapatalk
Yeah I get IR too but in most cases it goes away as soon as it gets created. More stubborn IR requires varying content until it disappears, which can be anywhere from a few hours to a few days depending on how long the offending logo, hud, or other static element was on screen.
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post #1076 of 2013 Old 09-06-2014, 06:46 PM
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I don't watch hockey but it might be the perfect thing to make my blue green tinted line clearly visible to the service tech since it features both bright uniform whites and fast motion on the ice, which should make the issue as visible as possible.
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post #1077 of 2013 Old 09-06-2014, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith633 View Post
Thanks for your responses to my questions gentlemen. Well it didn't show up Friday liked I hope so I'm guessing Monday or Tuesday now. I see Amazon increased to like $750. I'm feeling good about this purchase.


Wanted to mention a couple things in relation to calibration settings. Our living room is dark, even during the day. Almost to the point you need a lamp to read in the afternoon. We have 2 windows both facing east with a large shade tree right outside that blocks the morning sun.
Would this scenario require some tweaking on my part to achieve the best picture in this environment or can I still just follow the previous post.


Also I watch a lot of hockey. Will there be a issue with the white ice that will call for different setting?
Thanks again!
You shouldnt have a problem with screen brightness at all. This is a fairly bright set, I have zero problems with brightess/light output. Reflectivity of bright ceiling lights, yes, but not the light output of the set.
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post #1078 of 2013 Old 09-07-2014, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFJ 96 View Post
I have an A panel and any settings I use with Cell @ 20 no matter how I set contrast gives me IR.

I'll keep messing with the settings until I find some that work.

Thanks for settings and feedback

Sent from my G2 via Tapatalk
No IR problems with my A panel, but I do get a lot of white clipping with cell light at 20, no matter how I adjust brightness and contrast. It really depends on the source though. Film quality doesn't show it at all really.

A cell light of 16, brightness 49, contrast 95, and gamma at -2 gives me the best picture (to my eyes) for live sports.
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post #1079 of 2013 Old 09-07-2014, 11:18 AM
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No IR problems with my A panel, but I do get a lot of white clipping with cell light at 20, no matter how I adjust brightness and contrast. It really depends on the source though. Film quality doesn't show it at all really.

A cell light of 16, brightness 49, contrast 95, and gamma at -2 gives me the best picture (to my eyes) for live sports.
Thanks for the reply gilstein21. What I've done is active Energy Saving & set it to low, while leaving Cell @ 20.

So far I've seen no IR with the varying content we've watch via FIOS or Netflix

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post #1080 of 2013 Old 09-07-2014, 04:32 PM
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PN51F5300AFXZA Black Level, White Level, and Gamma Benchmark

https://drive.google.com/folderview?...VE&usp=sharing

Check bottom left corner for black level, bottom right corner for white level, and top right corner for gamma. File names and tab labels (top left corner on images) describe the pattern disc used and pattern set within that disc used. Everything is in fL (except for black level, which is in both fL and cdm).

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