Pioneer 8G 9G Kuro Reset Guide - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 148Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #31 of 2691 Old 01-09-2014, 11:40 PM
Advanced Member
 
MitchPope's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Toronto, ON
Posts: 564
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Liked: 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShockFett View Post


The straight rs323 cable. From what I understand it's the same cable from old monitor pc connection? I have several old ones here.

RS232 is a serial connection, only nine pins. VGA has 15. You need a female to female cable if you are going to use it with a KeySpan.

MitchPope is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #32 of 2691 Old 01-10-2014, 04:17 AM
 
Stu03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Kingdom of Fife, Scotland.
Posts: 1,371
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 69 Post(s)
Liked: 168
Quote:
Originally Posted by MitchPope View Post

I would like to do a reset to my 101, but I can't get my panel to connect with Hyperterminal. I have ControlCal, but it won't let me uncheck HEX input. I have been able to get KuroControl to work, but I only get text strings as a response, not sure how to display it on screen.

These are what my current values are for reference, it has about 9625 hours:

128 VOL SUS
113 VOL OFFSET
039 VOL RST P
085 VOL XPOPS1
063 VOL XPOFS2
138 VOL YKNOFS1 D
128 VOL YKNOFS3 D
149 VOL YKNOFS4 D
128 VOL YKNOFSA D

We need more of these settings thanks for posting them.

People posted a lot of their settings over two years ago when the red tint thread started then it practicaly stopped althogether.

All these default settings/numbers are exactly the same as my 500M (except for RSTP which is 13 i believe if i remember rightly)... These are identical to my default KRP500(A) also (except for RSTP again which was 18)which was afflicted with raised MLL and red tint before i fixed it eventualy.

I believe the main differences between the KRPA "tv" and the ELITE monitors and KRP monitors lies in the way their address set up driving/settings are set up differently to the tv's along with a couple of other minor but different nevertheless settings to be given the "monitor" label. These settings are found in the PANEL FUNCTION option. But I truly believe that the ADDRESS settings are truly only for plasma engineers. These are far more complex than the voltages we are playing about with and are very complex as to what they do and how and why.

Also a few things are very different in the PAN - 2 ADJ on the KRP monitor in stark contrast to the KRP tv media box version. ABL only one of quite a few.

Anyway...

On the second voltage page below YKNOFSAD... Starting with RESET1ST_KSB 128...Presumably all the numbers are 128 also same as here ? - i believe all of these are the same across all KURO models afaik.

Which reminds me - there are two voltages on that second page that had an effect on static misfiring on the KRPA. It's a long time ago now but it cleared a couple of small artefacts on white parts of the image like little blue lazy pixels and a few remaining static/flickering red/magenta pixels/misfiring. I believe the voltages were the Y SUS B and X SUS B.

But in reality i discoved the effects of these after about the third practice reset of the 500A...But by the last one i had narrowed it down to the four voltages on the first page (YKNOFSAD, VOL SUS, YKNOFS3D and YKNOFSAD) i have mentioned many times by now and didnt really have any need for these two voltages on the second page.
Stu03 is offline  
post #33 of 2691 Old 01-10-2014, 08:45 AM - Thread Starter
 
pg_ice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Sweden
Posts: 1,049
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 180
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

All these default settings/numbers are exactly the same as my 500M .

then the recomended voltage settings after the reset should suit the Elites as well.
pg_ice is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #34 of 2691 Old 01-10-2014, 10:28 AM - Thread Starter
 
pg_ice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Sweden
Posts: 1,049
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 180
Stu03
i will get the KRP 600A next week to do the reset on.
how different is the servicemenu on those and yours compared to the 5090?

i can post the before and after blacklevels on the KRP 600 here
also how the reset went.
pg_ice is offline  
post #35 of 2691 Old 01-10-2014, 11:32 AM
Senior Member
 
Shawn1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Revere, MA
Posts: 470
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Liked: 27
After the reset, is it normal to have to raise Brightness from +1 to +4 in order to see all details near black?

Up until I did the reset nearly 2 weeks ago, I've been using ISF-Day mode, calibrated by the one-and-only D-Nice. Brightness in this ISF mode has been set at +1 in the User Menu, which is grayed out (I cannot change anything), and I've always been able to see details near black.

After the reset, details near black are completely blended into the "blackness" at Brightness +1 in all modes.

I cannot increase Brightness in the User Menu for ISF-Day (remember, it's grayed out), to see if I could raise the OLED-like black level a little, so that details near black become visible.

So, what I ended up doing was switching to Pure mode, and increasing the Brightness from +1 to +4, so that details near black became visible.

What I really wanted was to continue using my D-Nice-calibrated ISF-Day, but I have no choice but to "settle" for Pure.

Does any of this sound abnormal?

Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

Thanks.
Shawn1 is offline  
post #36 of 2691 Old 01-10-2014, 11:46 AM - Thread Starter
 
pg_ice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Sweden
Posts: 1,049
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 180
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn1 View Post

After the reset, is it normal to have to raise Brightness from +1 to +4 in order to see all details near black?
Thanks.

gamma near black is probably higher thats why
you need to raise YKNOFS1D or YKNOFSAD

set brightness to where you had it a +1
put up the black clipping file that is all black i asume
start to raise only YKNOFS1D and see if the blinking bars starts to show up.

also keep an eye on the blacks with the 5% white window.
raising YKNOFS1D to high will change the blacks to dark gray.

what are your settings for YKNOFS1D or YKNOFSAD now?

wxman has his YKNOFS1D at 123 and YKNOFSA D 140
both higher than the recomended settings
pg_ice is offline  
post #37 of 2691 Old 01-10-2014, 11:51 AM
Senior Member
 
Shawn1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Revere, MA
Posts: 470
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by pg_ice View Post

gamma near black is probably higher thats why
you need to raise YKNOFS1D or YKNOFSAD

set brightness to where you had it a +1
put up the black clipping file that is all black i asume
start to raise only YKNOFS1D and see if the blinking bars starts to show up.

also keep an eye on the blacks with the 5% white window.

what are your settings for YKNOFS1D or YKNOFSAD now?
Thank you for replying.

YKNOFS1D is 112 (from factory default of 138).

YKNOFSAD is 148 (from factory default of 128).

I will follow your advice later on tonight when it gets dark.
Shawn1 is offline  
post #38 of 2691 Old 01-10-2014, 12:05 PM - Thread Starter
 
pg_ice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Sweden
Posts: 1,049
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 180
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn1 View Post

YKNOFS1D is 112 (from factory default of 138).

YKNOFSAD is 148 (from factory default of 128).

try to set YKNOFSAD at 128 first before the test and then only raise YKNOFS1D
i think you will se a better result then
pg_ice is offline  
post #39 of 2691 Old 01-10-2014, 12:21 PM
Senior Member
 
Shawn1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Revere, MA
Posts: 470
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by pg_ice View Post

try to set YKNOFSAD at 128 first before the test and then only raise YKNOFS1D
i think you will se a better result then
I am looking forward to trying that later on tonight. Thank you.
Shawn1 is offline  
post #40 of 2691 Old 01-10-2014, 12:45 PM
Senior Member
 
ShockFett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 487
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked: 128
Will this cable be fine?
Check this out on AMZN: TRENDnet USB to RS-232 Serial Converter TU-S9 (White) http://amzn.com/B0007T27H8


Also, being completely new and never actually seeing the menus. A quick YouTube video would be awesome! Just a suggestion.
ShockFett is offline  
post #41 of 2691 Old 01-10-2014, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
 
pg_ice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Sweden
Posts: 1,049
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 180
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShockFett View Post

Will this cable be fine?
Check this out on AMZN: TRENDnet USB to RS-232 Serial Converter TU-S9 (White) http://amzn.com/B0007T27H8


Also, being completely new and never actually seeing the menus. A quick YouTube video would be awesome! Just a suggestion.

that adapter should work but you also need a serial cable.

i can put up pics from the servicemenu later
pg_ice is offline  
post #42 of 2691 Old 01-10-2014, 03:57 PM
Senior Member
 
Shawn1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Revere, MA
Posts: 470
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by pg_ice View Post

gamma near black is probably higher thats why
you need to raise YKNOFS1D or YKNOFSAD

set brightness to where you had it a +1
put up the black clipping file that is all black i asume
start to raise only YKNOFS1D and see if the blinking bars starts to show up.

also keep an eye on the blacks with the 5% white window.
raising YKNOFS1D to high will change the blacks to dark gray.

what are your settings for YKNOFS1D or YKNOFSAD now?

wxman has his YKNOFS1D at 123 and YKNOFSA D 140
both higher than the recomended settings
I put Brightness to +1.

I lowered YKNOFSAD to factory default of 128.

I raised YKNOFS1D to 158 (from 112).

I'm in a pitch black room.

On the black clipping pattern, bars 17, 18, and 19 disappear completely into the black background. (I can see bars 20 - 25 blinking.)

On the 5% white window, there is a very, very slight glow to the black background in my pitch dark room. The glow is so faint, I have to wait a while for my eyes to notice it.

It concerns me that bars 17, 18, and 19 are not blinking.

I honestly don't know what to do now.
Shawn1 is offline  
post #43 of 2691 Old 01-10-2014, 04:32 PM - Thread Starter
 
pg_ice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Sweden
Posts: 1,049
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 180
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn1 View Post

It concerns me that bars 17, 18, and 19 are not blinking.

I honestly don't know what to do now.

up to 20 is great
i have only bars 20-25 blinking and the details near black is great.
i can raise brightness one step to get them all the way up to 18 but i think the near black details looks more washed out then.
i cant see any more details near black with the bars up to 18 blinking compared to up to 20.
so one doesnt have to be so picky with that.

i can see now when testing that neither YKNOFSAD and YKNOFS1D affects gamma or blacklevel that much.
the ONLY thing you should do instead is to raise Brightness.
thats why i recomend a calibration after the reset wink.gif

set YKNOFSAD to 128 again and YKNOFS1D to 112 and adjust brightness.
its just to bad that your ISF profiles is locked
its so simple to just raise brightness one step for the profiles in controlcal.
cant you have them locked up again?
Shawn1 likes this.
pg_ice is offline  
post #44 of 2691 Old 01-10-2014, 06:55 PM
Senior Member
 
Shawn1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Revere, MA
Posts: 470
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Thanks for the information, pg_ice. I put YKNOFSAD and YKNOFS1D back to their original settings and adjusted brightness. I'm happy with the black level. I'm going to give my 500M some time to settle, then I'll get it calibrated.
Shawn1 is offline  
post #45 of 2691 Old 01-11-2014, 10:22 AM
Advanced Member
 
MitchPope's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Toronto, ON
Posts: 564
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Liked: 29
And of course I did the reset yesterday. It does look much better though. My blacks blend with the bezel again. I didn't realize how bad they had gotten until I started running some slides. It had all gone dark grey. I do have some black rain and IR now, but I think I will let it settle for a while before I get too upset. The main thing I have noticed is that the centre of my screen seems a bit yellow on an all-white signal. I suspect this is where all of the action usually is as it is similar to the tiny bit of burn in I've seen from playing video games in the corners. Hopefully a few more Elite owners will chime in and we'll get an idea on what should be changed on our sets. Looking at the "Star" clipping patterns on the Disney WOW disc, It is almost perfect, but with my current ISF settings, the +1 black star blends into the background, and I can still see the +1 white star. I can also see the outlines around the checkerboards/outlines, like when you turn DRE on and off and you can see the edges of the long bars on the Spears and Munsell disc. I do have image retention after it shuts down, so the Oppo logo glows for a bit, but I seem to remember seeing that when I first got the set, so that may sort itself out on its own.

MitchPope is offline  
post #46 of 2691 Old 01-11-2014, 10:28 AM
 
vinnie97's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Nunya
Posts: 11,423
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 213 Post(s)
Liked: 1014
Temporary mage retention post shutdown is not unique to the Kuros...it's inherent to all phosphor-based displays (as far as I know). I am surprised to hear that yours had cleared up prior to the reset.

Also, you have a 101, do you not? I don't think that's qualified as an Elite but instead a Monitor and is actually not too dissimilar to the 500M.
vinnie97 is offline  
post #47 of 2691 Old 01-11-2014, 10:28 AM - Thread Starter
 
pg_ice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Sweden
Posts: 1,049
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 180
Quote:
Originally Posted by MitchPope View Post

The main thing I have noticed is that the centre of my screen seems a bit yellow on an all-white signal. I suspect this is where all of the action usually is

Great that the reset worked!

i had the same problem but mine wasnt yellow
i had the magenta misfires only in the center and the left corner of the screen

to clean up the white field Raise VOL SUS some
if you cant get it cleaned up with VOL SUS around 170-180 then there is one more thing to do but i can take that later wink.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by MitchPope View Post

on the Disney WOW disc,

whats that?
can i get it somewhere?
pg_ice is offline  
post #48 of 2691 Old 01-11-2014, 10:33 AM
Advanced Member
 
MitchPope's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Toronto, ON
Posts: 564
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Liked: 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnie97 View Post

Temporary mage retention post shutdown is not unique to the Kuros...it's inherent to all phosphor-based displays (as far as I know). I am surprised to hear that yours had cleared up prior to the reset.

Also, you have a 101, do you not? I don't think that's qualified as an Elite but instead a Monitor and is actually not too dissimilar to the 500M.

A 101 is a Signature Elite, which is a monitor. Same service manual as the 500M.

MitchPope is offline  
post #49 of 2691 Old 01-11-2014, 10:36 AM
 
vinnie97's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Nunya
Posts: 11,423
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 213 Post(s)
Liked: 1014
Well, the guide definitely appears applicable to the 9.5G panels (101FD, 500M) at least based on your results and those of others. The Elite TVs (111FD, 151FD) might be another story.
vinnie97 is offline  
post #50 of 2691 Old 01-11-2014, 10:42 AM
Advanced Member
 
MitchPope's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Toronto, ON
Posts: 564
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Liked: 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnie97 View Post

Well, the guide definitely appears applicable to the 9.5G panels (101FD, 500M) at least based on your results and those of others. The Elite TVs (111FD, 151FD) might be another story.

I think the concern is how far off the Monitors are in their settings from other 9G sets. So, the reset procedure is the same, but where to start after that is where there is a concern and why we've been excluded from the guide. I am curious if there are any 141 owners who have done the reset or have looked at the settings to see if they are more like a 101, or closer to the other 9G panels.

MitchPope is offline  
post #51 of 2691 Old 01-11-2014, 10:46 AM
 
vinnie97's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Nunya
Posts: 11,423
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 213 Post(s)
Liked: 1014
A 111FD user has, with unfortunate results (but his is a unique case), as can be seen in the Red Tint thread.
vinnie97 is offline  
post #52 of 2691 Old 01-11-2014, 06:20 PM
Senior Member
 
ShockFett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 487
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked: 128
I plan to access my 141 soon to see where the settings are actually at.

Does anyone know if using kurocontrol you are able to access the service menu?
ShockFett is offline  
post #53 of 2691 Old 01-11-2014, 10:16 PM
Advanced Member
 
MitchPope's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Toronto, ON
Posts: 564
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Liked: 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShockFett View Post

I plan to access my 141 soon to see where the settings are actually at.

Does anyone know if using kurocontrol you are able to access the service menu?

I used KuroControl to get to mine.

MitchPope is offline  
post #54 of 2691 Old 01-11-2014, 10:24 PM
Senior Member
 
ShockFett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 487
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked: 128
Quote:
Originally Posted by MitchPope View Post

I used KuroControl to get to mine.

Can you please share how?
ShockFett is offline  
post #55 of 2691 Old 01-11-2014, 10:39 PM
Advanced Member
 
MitchPope's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Toronto, ON
Posts: 564
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Liked: 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShockFett View Post

Can you please share how?
PM sent.

MitchPope is offline  
post #56 of 2691 Old 01-11-2014, 11:27 PM
Senior Member
 
ShockFett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 487
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked: 128
Thank you so much for the pictures in the guide!

I have two signature models and a 500m. I'm going to wait to do this now.

Mitch do you want to know the voltage number on the 141 before reset correct? If it's as easy as just scrolling through the SM. I can post those once I have time to do so.
ShockFett is offline  
post #57 of 2691 Old 01-11-2014, 11:46 PM
Senior Member
 
ShockFett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 487
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked: 128
Per guide

"Page Down once to get to PANEL -2 ADJ (+) where the WB settings and ABL settings are
Press Enter to get in to PANEL -2 ADJ (+)"

We don't actually adjust wb and abl?

What is the command to exit the SM with remote?
ShockFett is offline  
post #58 of 2691 Old 01-12-2014, 02:07 AM
Advanced Member
 
MitchPope's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Toronto, ON
Posts: 564
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Liked: 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShockFett View Post


Mitch do you want to know the voltage number on the 141 before reset correct? If it's as easy as just scrolling through the SM. I can post those once I have time to do so.

Yes, if you can list the first 8 of them, we are curious about whether they are similar to a 101 or a 500M

MitchPope is offline  
post #59 of 2691 Old 01-12-2014, 02:10 AM
Advanced Member
 
MitchPope's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Toronto, ON
Posts: 564
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Liked: 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShockFett View Post

Per guide

"Page Down once to get to PANEL -2 ADJ (+) where the WB settings and ABL settings are
Press Enter to get in to PANEL -2 ADJ (+)"

We don't actually adjust wb and abl?

What is the command to exit the SM with remote?

Not that I've seen, those values should be mostly 500, but I don't remember seeing what the ABL value should be. I just left those alone on mine for now. My first value was 515 and the second was 496, the rest were 500.

Not sure about the remote, I think you need a dedicated Service Remote to turn it on and off. I just send it the FACS00 command.

MitchPope is offline  
post #60 of 2691 Old 01-12-2014, 04:59 PM
Senior Member
 
ShockFett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 487
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked: 128
Here is my numbers from my KURO 141 Signature Elite

Build Date: 10.2008
Hours: 6662

QAJ
128
068
018
105
063
086
096
143
128

******128128128128128128128128128128128128128128128***1**61

I will do my other 141 build date Sept 08 maybe after the game.
ShockFett is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Plasma Flat Panel Displays

Tags
Pioneer Elite Kuro Pro 1150hd 50 Inch Plasma Hdtv

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off