Originally Posted by makaveddie81
Subsequent resets after an initial reset where you used the above workflow are painless since you won’t have to change voltages. Simply reset with the current voltages and you wont have any post reset artifacts. You will need to perform the white balance preservation steps in order to not throw off your current calibration after reset.
Sweet, good to know!
I'm going to try and get to this Sunday evening. Didn't have a chance to today, and probably not tomorrow either. I'm gonna try on the old laptop first cuz a cable would take a while to get here. I just hope it doesn't run too slow, and that it actually turns on haha.
There are so so so many pages about these KUROs across five or so threads. My head is spinning a little LOL. One of these days I'd like to look into several details that I've never cleared up related to the whole motion picture pipeline. Over time I'd like to refine the picture, learning the requisite topics properly/gradually, and ideally organized in a queue which prioritizes the facets that will make the greatest improvement to picture quality first.
It seems the first step is to address the blacks/tint issue. I'd imagine the next step is to learn how to properly calibrate the TV in ISF mode, which I suppose requires some additional hardware, namely a color sensitive camera. Is a light meter really necessary? IONO. It doesn't seem like a setup disc has much use.
I see some users have some high end components in their pipeline, namely a video processor and/or high end blu ray player like the OPPO. Does this more expensive hardware improve the picture quality? There are some fairly cheap BDP-103D's in my area on the ol' CL, and some reviewers seem to rave on the image processing algorithms, I am curious as to what difference it makes. It seems like the TV has some advanced features with regards to things such as Color Space and such, and I'd imagine these devices should be able to leverage that. I'm going to try and set some time aside to read into some of these things, and hopefully peruse the KURO manual to get up to at least get familiar with some of the diction here and all these different standards. I suspect these standards and information will be relevant in some capacity in the future, if not I am still interested anyway. Not sure when I'll be able to get a calibration camera though. The look up tables also seems relevant here. Ayyyyyyy
With regard to crushed/dirty blacks: For the former do you mean there is perhaps macroblocking going on during low level scenes where clumps of pixels, irregularly distributed, stay 0 black? For the latter I'm imagining a similar sort of phenomenon just with smaller clumps of pixels, and both these phenomena happening when there should be smooth transitions to black instead of splotches.
The KRP sounds amazing! I think I will keep an eye out on craigslist and hopefully one day one shows up.