Any more info on LG PB6600 (or other 2014 model) plasma? - Page 47 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1381 of 1765 Old 03-07-2015, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colargo View Post
I bought the PB6600 a little over a couple of months ago and so far I'm pretty happy with the set EXCEPT for the pink spot issue. Is there anyway to fix it?

I've already received and returned two sets because of this issue and the third one I'm on is the least offensive. On my first set that I got, there was a fairly large pink area right in the middle of the screen and also smaller vertical pink lines near both sides of the TV. On the second set I got, there was only a slight pink area in the middle, but a noticable vertical pink strip along the right side of the screen that was pretty annoying.

On my current 3rd set, its so far the best out of the three in that I still see pink areas in the middle and sides but overall they are the lightest and least noticable. If I'm watching something like a hockey game you can notice the pink areas on the ice if you look for it abit, but its the most faint out of the three sets and isn't overly annoying as it was on the previous two sets I had.

Another issue that I found recently is that I tried plugging in my blu-ray to see how movies would look on this TV and it looked like crap. Seems like I have to re-enter the settings for each input instead of the settings applying to all my inputs like it did with my old LG plasma.

Also a question I have is is there much you can do with the Smart functions of this TV? I tried it out briefly and it seems pretty limited and basic and overall not very useful if you're not using any of their premium services. :/

So I'm wondering is there anyway to get rid of the pink on my screen as I really don't want to exchange this TV for yet another one assuming I could do it again. Just a pain in the butt to do so and there's no guarantee that it will be any better than the screen of my 3rd set.


You are still under warranty. Give LG a call and they will come out. Check voltages or replace boards. Hope that helps.
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post #1382 of 1765 Old 03-09-2015, 02:18 PM
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This is an update to my recent posts.

My LG 60PB6650 was shipped back to Dell four days ago for a refund. As discussed last week, the panel displayed large areas of pink and the unit had very disappointing black levels. Compared with my two Panasonic plasmas, the LG always had an annoying washed-out picture. It never improved, even slightly, after about 50-60 hours of use. The only change was expanding areas of pink.

The next day Best Buy delivered a Samsung 60F5300B. Within a very short time after powering up the Samsung I knew its black levels were far superior to that of the LG. That night, after about seven hours of running it in and fine-tuning earlier picture settings, I played my favorite Blu-ray test film, "2001: A Space Odyssey." I was very impressed with the black levels and shadow detail during the early-man cave scenes. What were black blobs on the LG were now clear details on the Samsung. The improvement was startling.

The Samsung's black levels and shadow detail come close to that of our 65" final-generation Panasonic plasma.

Other aspects of the Samsung's performance are excellent as well.

So far, there is one problem with the Samsung. There is a very light, ruler-straight, pink band about 2.5" high that runs along the entire bottom edge of the screen. This pink banding problem has had many posts in several AVS threads. Initially, the pink was constantly present on my set. Now the pink comes and goes. As of today, about 80% of the time the pink is nonexistent. My hope is that internal components will stabilize and completely eliminate the problem. If not, I will consider exchanging the F5300 for another one.

In my experience the Samsung F5300's overall video performance is significantly better than that of the LG 6650. This hard-to-please videophile likes the Samsung 60F5300 very much.
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post #1383 of 1765 Old 03-09-2015, 08:41 PM
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The funny thing is I did the complete opposite and returned a f5300 for my pb6900 and actually like the black levels better on the 6900 but each set can vary but i'm glad you found what your looking for.

Last edited by meta22ica240; 03-09-2015 at 09:39 PM.
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post #1384 of 1765 Old 03-09-2015, 09:17 PM
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Thank you. I am glad, too.
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post #1385 of 1765 Old 03-10-2015, 07:54 AM
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Has anyone else adjusted the pots for black level improvements on the pb6600? I have the European version of it pb660v. I've been tempted to do it as I do a lot of gaming. The only area this tv falls short in is the black levels. I've been very happy with it otherwise.

I've seen some settings on here which I've tested myself and they seem to make the blacks look worse. Here are my settings for gaming if anyone wants to try them

Backlight 100
Contrast 95
Brightness 53
Sharpness h 23
Sharpness v 21
Colour 53
Tint R1
Under expert everything off
Colour gamut standard
Gamma 2.2
White balance medium
Black level high with ps4 set to full RGB all other picture options off

I also set the input to game rather than pc. Could be placebo but when I set the tv to pc it seems more flat looking despite having the same exact picture settings. I played with it set to pc for months but the flatness was bothering me. Switched it back to game and it seems to pop just a tad more.

Using shaorons settings the black levels become much worse for gaming especially. The become crushed and the greys become more apparent. If adjusting the pats creates much improvement without consequence I would do it.
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post #1386 of 1765 Old 03-10-2015, 09:04 AM
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And just a note. The black levels don't bother me too bad. I didn't really notice them all that much since I had used not so great lcds before. It was only after reading this thread that my OCD licked in and I would notice the grey cast in gaming in a very dark room
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post #1387 of 1765 Old 03-10-2015, 12:43 PM
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Drop your brightness down to 48, v and h sharpness down to 10, color 54, gamma 2.4, white balance Warm2, black level low, all others off.


I adjusted both my pots (set_up, set_down) on my pb6900 fully clockwise.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RobScotland View Post
Has anyone else adjusted the pots for black level improvements on the pb6600? I have the European version of it pb660v. I've been tempted to do it as I do a lot of gaming. The only area this tv falls short in is the black levels. I've been very happy with it otherwise.

I've seen some settings on here which I've tested myself and they seem to make the blacks look worse. Here are my settings for gaming if anyone wants to try them

Backlight 100
Contrast 95
Brightness 53
Sharpness h 23
Sharpness v 21
Colour 53
Tint R1
Under expert everything off
Colour gamut standard
Gamma 2.2
White balance medium
Black level high with ps4 set to full RGB all other picture options off.



I also set the input to game rather than pc. Could be placebo but when I set the tv to pc it seems more flat looking despite having the same exact picture settings. I played with it set to pc for months but the flatness was bothering me. Switched it back to game and it seems to pop just a tad more.

Using shaorons settings the black levels become much worse for gaming especially. The become crushed and the greys become more apparent. If adjusting the pats creates much improvement without consequence I would do it.[/QUOTE]
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post #1388 of 1765 Old 03-10-2015, 02:21 PM
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When I set it like that blacks become crushed. Setting black high or low only matters on what your source is. Black low=limited rgb. Black high=full rgb. Doesn't make a difference really. Full gamma of 2.4 makes whites look richer but also crushes blacks a bit.

I can't wrap my head around using warm 2 setting. It just looks far too red to me. To me medium is the most neutral looking and still a bit warm. I set it to warm 2 for a week to see if I would adjust but it still looks wrong.

Wonder if other people try my settings what they'll think. To me they look the best after fiddling around with them quite a long time.
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post #1389 of 1765 Old 03-10-2015, 05:41 PM
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I tweaked the pots on mine. Curiosity got the best of me and I couldn't resist. I have a 60PB6650, the black levels were kind of subpar before and now they might fall under average.

I did a full clockwise turn on both set-up and set-down, no ill effects except for a bit more image retention (not burn in).

The improvement however is minimal. Unless you are really hard pressed to squeeze every tiny improvement out of the set, I don't think it is worthwhile.

It's a shame about the black levels, the set has a great picture besides that. I wish I had gone with the Sammy..even with the pentile display, I was really looking forward to some decent blacks. Enough complaining though, for a 60" television for $600 it is pretty great.

My settings (labeled for PC)

Panel Light - 100
Brightness - 51
Contrast - 97
Color - 50
Tint - G4
Sharpness (h) - 5
Sharpness (v) - 5
Black level - low (source dependant - low for bluray player)
Color - Wide
White - Warm 2
Trumotion - On
Just Scan
Everything else turned off.

There is a slight variance on this depending on the htpc or roku as source. Black level changes, brightness drops a point, contrast drops a point, color goes up a point, tint changes to g2.

I got these settings using the AVS 702 disc. Ran the picture wizard and it gives nearly the same results.

Black level is this sets only weakness in my opinion. If you sit at least 8 feet away the dithering isn't an issue, color, clarity, motion, everything else is great. Black level is similar to my budget TCL "Roku" full array LED that cost roughly the same at 55" and has clouding issues. In fact the TCL may barely edge out a win on black level, but it loses in every other category including screen uniformity, motion, shadow detail (it has some black crush), and viewing angle.

One last thing to note. I had pink tint issues on white screens BEFORE pot tweak, since pot tweak..no more pink.
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post #1390 of 1765 Old 03-16-2015, 01:00 AM
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To be honest...at times this tv seems fantastic and then other times it's just so-so. I think contrast (and sometimes colors) is the big issue for me.

A couple things come to mind...

I'm strongly considering doing the pot tune, but in all honesty I'm a little concerned my tv might explode!? Do you think that might fix my contrast problems? My thoughts are that plasma's struggle with white and this tv doesn't have very great blacks, so maybe deeper black might make for much better contrast. that makes some sense right?

My issue with the colors is that they sometimes look pastel-like. I do have my color setting to medium because I watch a lot of hockey and that seems to give me an acceptable white ice. If I'm in warm, warm2, the ice looks almost yellow. Is there a way to use one of the warm settings and change a color setting or 2 to rid myself of the yellow look? That might be helpful.

Any information/help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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post #1391 of 1765 Old 03-16-2015, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seikon View Post
To be honest...at times this tv seems fantastic and then other times it's just so-so. I think contrast (and sometimes colors) is the big issue for me.

A couple things come to mind...

I'm strongly considering doing the pot tune, but in all honesty I'm a little concerned my tv might explode!? Do you think that might fix my contrast problems? My thoughts are that plasma's struggle with white and this tv doesn't have very great blacks, so maybe deeper black might make for much better contrast. that makes some sense right?

My issue with the colors is that they sometimes look pastel-like. I do have my color setting to medium because I watch a lot of hockey and that seems to give me an acceptable white ice. If I'm in warm, warm2, the ice looks almost yellow. Is there a way to use one of the warm settings and change a color setting or 2 to rid myself of the yellow look? That might be helpful.

Any information/help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
More info is needed about your source material and your settings before any real recommendation could be made. I will say that you are better off to use at least warm1 and turn the color down a notch if the yellow tint is too much for you. You can't get accurate color representation on medium, this is about accuracy though and not preference. If you like the look of medium, then use it. I think you need time to adjust to a proper calibration.

Some quick tips: Assuming you haven't tried them already.

Panel Light - Keep it at 100% always and adjust other settings accordingly.

Use "expert settings" run the picture wizard. Get everything as close to the true and accurate color as possible, not the "preferred".

Check that all "dynamic contrast" and other extraneous options are turned off.

See if your source requires a black level of "low" or "high", this changes depending on your source...and it automatically changes along with your settings if the source jumps from 60hz to 24hz. Check it while your desired program is running.

Pot tweak did help in my case. I don't have the knowledge to advise on possible dangers or damage that could happen. The improvement isn't earth shattering so don't expect a miracle. If you have some hesitation about doing it...the difference in quality probably doesn't justify the risk. If you can afford to replace the tv if you screw it up and are willing to take those risks, it certainly wasn't difficult to do. I can say without a doubt that the television runs hotter and uses more electricity with the tweak done. It hasn't caused anything negative (yet). It gives maybe a 10-15% increase in contrast ratio at best in my opinion. Image retention (not burn in) is more prevalent after pot tweak. It takes less time to happen, but it goes away quickly and is easily remedied by the color wash feature.

All of that said, the set has excellent color reproduction, good shadow detail, very vibrant colors and an exceptionally detailed picture. If those things are not true in your case, I think you need to do some tweaking in the settings.

The settings need to be redone every 100-150 hours for the first 500 hours or so in my experience. Slight changes occurred on my set during that time.

Lastly, I need different settings for every single input device I use. They are all slightly different, and no single set of settings will be correct for every source. Use a setting for each source and possibly for day and night viewing as well.

I'm not an expert, so take that advice however you wish. I do think my television has a pretty great picture for the price and I have been exposed to very well reviewed and properly calibrated television sets. At 60", nothing under $800-900 that I've seen can top the set.

Good luck whatever you choose to do, I hope you find more enjoyment in your set.
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post #1392 of 1765 Old 03-17-2015, 09:04 AM
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Tweaks 50/6650

[QUOTE=JP12;32665297]

Pot tweak did help in my case. I don't have the knowledge to advise on possible dangers or damage that could happen. The improvement isn't earth shattering so don't expect a miracle. If you have some hesitation about doing it...the difference in quality probably doesn't justify the risk. If you can afford to replace the tv if you screw it up and are willing to take those risks, it certainly wasn't difficult to do. I can say without a doubt that the television runs hotter and uses more electricity with the tweak done. It hasn't caused anything negative (yet). It gives maybe a 10-15% increase in contrast ratio at best in my opinion. Image retention (not burn in) is more prevalent after pot tweak. It takes less time to happen, but it goes away quickly and is easily remedied by the color wash feature. end quote

My hobby is collecting and refurbishing tube audio gear so I am somewhat familiar with electronics, but not so much circuit boards. However with info on the forum and internet I have checked the VA,VS,VZB and VY voltages, all were within .5 volts. so I did no adjusting. I am thinking of doing the setup/setdown adjustments and have read different things about how--scopes--no scope watching the screen for artifacts, all the way clockwise etc. I am wondering how you did yours, and any ideas for the best approach will be appreciated. The set has 320 hours. Thanks ron
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post #1393 of 1765 Old 03-17-2015, 12:33 PM
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[quote=ronton3;32690089]
Quote:
Originally Posted by JP12 View Post

Pot tweak did help in my case. I don't have the knowledge to advise on possible dangers or damage that could happen. The improvement isn't earth shattering so don't expect a miracle. If you have some hesitation about doing it...the difference in quality probably doesn't justify the risk. If you can afford to replace the tv if you screw it up and are willing to take those risks, it certainly wasn't difficult to do. I can say without a doubt that the television runs hotter and uses more electricity with the tweak done. It hasn't caused anything negative (yet). It gives maybe a 10-15% increase in contrast ratio at best in my opinion. Image retention (not burn in) is more prevalent after pot tweak. It takes less time to happen, but it goes away quickly and is easily remedied by the color wash feature. end quote

My hobby is collecting and refurbishing tube audio gear so I am somewhat familiar with electronics, but not so much circuit boards. However with info on the forum and internet I have checked the VA,VS,VZB and VY voltages, all were within .5 volts. so I did no adjusting. I am thinking of doing the setup/setdown adjustments and have read different things about how--scopes--no scope watching the screen for artifacts, all the way clockwise etc. I am wondering how you did yours, and any ideas for the best approach will be appreciated. The set has 320 hours. Thanks ron
Ron,

I simply turned my setup and setdown fully clockwise until they hit stop (the first sign of resistance, no additional force). It was about 3/4 turn for setup and 1/2 turn for setdown on my particular set. I wanted to have my set unplugged and laying on it's face so I could lessen the risk of damage. A full turn did not leave any pink artifacts or additional noise for me, so I got lucky. I did take pictures of the original setting positions just in case. The nylon screws for the pots are labelled and easily identifiable. I did not change any of the other settings you mentioned. Without proper equipment I didn't feel that would be a wise choice for me.

As I said, in all it was a simple procedure. Probably took all of 10 minutes, it was harder pulling it down from the mount and putting it back up. There is definitely an improvement, even without measurement equipment it is clear. Other people have reported noise and pink artifacts, so I guess I just got lucky. It seems to me that my set should have been set like this from the factory. If I had to guess they are worried about complaints about image retention from folks that don't understand the tech and thus they are overly cautious with the contrast gap.

Just to reiterate:

Full clockwise turn.
10-15% (estimated) gain in contrast.
Set puts out more heat, noticeable up close but not dangerously hot.
More heat = more power drain.
Image retention went from zero to mild. I get slight retention on static areas after a couple hours, it always clears up on full motion content or color wash.

MOST NOTABLY: I do not know the long term effects of this tweak. Maybe catastrophic, maybe nothing. For me it was worth the risk. If the set last 2-3 years I'll be happy.

Things that did not improve -

Banding on lower quality sources, like hulu plus.
Dithering.
Color saturation. (This was already exceptional for me.)

I'm happy to get into any other specifics you might be interested in. Best of luck.
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post #1394 of 1765 Old 03-18-2015, 06:36 AM
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I have a 50 inch 6650, set up and running with the back off(I live alone, I would not do this with kids around), I turned SET_Up and Down fully clockwise(little more than a half turn) while it was off, when I turned it on it was so bright as to be unwatchable. I slowly turned set-up back to about 11:00, I could see the artifacts and blazing retreat and a beautiful picture came into focus, set down didn't seem to matter as much. I did run wizard again and made some menu adjustments. Later I will check the voltages, on the other pots where that is possible along with the bias on VZB. I did mark pot positions, I am wondering if mine went so far over the line because it is 50 inches instead of the usual 60 with the same power supply. I have read about other pot tweaks in the plasma panels thread, and will not be able to resist tinkering some more, even though right now I think I have the best picture I have seen on a TV. The last few days I have been watching Game of Thrones season 3 recorded from Dish, one or two episodes per night. There are many dark scenes. The episode last night, revealed more detail and better colors, especially with the Dragon Mother rising from her bath, a pleasant way to view flesh tones. I am now very pleased with the set. ron
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post #1395 of 1765 Old 03-18-2015, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rippem View Post
here's one for you guys...aside from the pink noted above...


so I turn the TV off last night and 2? minutes later it turns back on and rapidly flashes a series of menu screens mostly the joystick control graphic before going to the moving LG screen saver
so I turn it off knowing something isn't right
comes right back on and goes thru the same screens and parks on the screen saver
I check to see if it's updating or something, it's not.
It's on the latest version 04.02.03
I grab the remote and turn it off again
right back on
now I'm getting pissed
go to turn it off and now it will not respond to remote inputs at all, no power, no menu, nothing
ended up unplugging it


one thing I noticed was it took 6-8 minutes for the standby light to go out even unplugged!


set has 140 hrs on it


will make the call to LG, big PITA if it needs to come down as it's wall mounted


any ideas?
picture is fine
sounds like a control/software issue?

update as it may help someone
came today with boards put them in powers up fine but will not respond IR or TV bottom bezel joystick
thought have wrong board no
called tech bad on-set joystick macro
leg 4 at under 1 volt should be 3.3 as the others
looking for command therefore blocking IR as well
essentially acting like a "stuck key"
not the physical joystick, the macro


tech was on speaker said they "have had problems with these"


put original boards back in, another week for macro
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post #1396 of 1765 Old 03-18-2015, 03:35 PM
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Color wash

Where is the color wash feature located? Thanks ron
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post #1397 of 1765 Old 03-18-2015, 04:23 PM
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On my set it is located here:

Settings>Option>ISM Method>Color Wash
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post #1398 of 1765 Old 03-18-2015, 04:50 PM
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oh and BTW in regards to my vertical pinks, he checked the vs voltage nominally 205
was right on at 205.1


it's the panel


tech was 40 year TV guy...
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post #1399 of 1765 Old 03-18-2015, 05:12 PM
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Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by laugsbach View Post
On my set it is located here:

Settings>Option>ISM Method>Color Wash
I should have looked harder. ron
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post #1400 of 1765 Old 03-19-2015, 07:15 PM
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Anyone that needs 3d glasses, Buydig has em for $10. That's where I got my 6900. Found on Tech bargains.

Buydig.com has the LG AG-S350 Active-Dynamic Shutter 3D Glasses for a low $9.99 Free Shipping after Coupon Code: "3DGLASSES" (Exp Soon). Tax in NJ. This is about 43% less than elsewhere.
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post #1401 of 1765 Old 03-24-2015, 05:17 AM
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Originally Posted by gregoryperkins View Post
My 6900 was made in September, purchased in December. Anyone got one made later?
I bought my 60PB5600 a few days ago (March 12) here in Greece. Assembled in Poland on December 2014.
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post #1402 of 1765 Old 04-01-2015, 09:25 AM
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Milan PM'ed me, asking a question of general interest. I trust he won't mind if I reply publically.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MK1980
Hi Frank just I am curious did you have ISF calibrated panel till now ? After success stories I will try POT tuning without scope , but I will do my best to avoid missfires and other issues possible just tweaking Set UP mainly and little bit Set Down. Do you no brown hues in blacks still and no issues after POT tuning these days? Which have helped me is bias lightning so far improved black levels maybe 3times and contrast as well, 6500k white light regulated LED sticked all over the backside of TV

Thanks for any news

Milan
Dave Hancock spent last Saturday calibrating my 60PB6900, and I see his report doesn't specify what he measured for black level or max. white level (which is a function of patch area due to power supply limitations). Thus, I can only say I remember him reporting 0.022 ft.L black level, after pot tuning, vs. 0.036 ft.L on his untuned display. Conversely, I recall he had a max white of over 50 ft.L, while mine started at 25 ft.L, and ended up more like 40 ft.L. Some of this variance is due to the patch area/power supply capacity issue. BTW, that's an honest 1800:1 contrast ratio. (Dave, please feel free to comment if my memory is inaccurate.)

I did a critical look at my blacks, beforehand, and can say the "blacker-than-black" area of the wizard's PLUGE pattern was off, no sign of cells firing, I had adjusted the surrounding area a smidgen higher, in an attempt to preserve shadow detail, but the real improvement in shadow detail came from the BT.1886-based calibration.

That is the real story in my book. Yes, his standard calibration improved color accuracy across the tonal range from +10/-16% to about +/-3% at low brightness (dark areas) and even better above 40% white. The BT.1886 came out more like +/-2%, but that's not what I notice.

It's the shadow detail, where BT.1886 differs most from current, CRT-based calibration standards (1). By reducing contrast at low % white, black crush is greatly reduced, plus I see a smidgen better color balance in certain scenes. Can't say if the latter is just calibration noise, but the contrast shaping is certainly evident in any scene with a lot of shadows. One of the test images we viewed is the Balrog scene from Fellowship of the Ring. You see orcs as individuals, not a mass of bodies, while at the same time, the jewel in his staff, glowing brightly due to the orcs, is not lost in that glow.

Dave set both our sets up with standard and BT.1886 as the expert settings, so it's easy to switch between and see the difference. I would not call it subtle, certainly on par with whatever benefits acrue from the standard calibration over factory settings. That may result from a personal lack of interest in colors, per se, in favor of detail resolution; one must know one's preferences and biases to present an accurate picture of the result. Let's just say I'm very happy with the result.

Have fun,
Frank

(1) from BT.1886:
"...historically, picture presentation characteristics were determined based on Cathode RayTube (CRT) characteristics, and the opto-electronic transfer characteristics were implicitly based on the CRT physical characteristics."
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post #1403 of 1765 Old 04-01-2015, 10:38 AM
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by fbov View Post
Dave Hancock spent last Saturday calibrating my 60PB6900, and I see his report doesn't specify what he measured for black level or max. white level (which is a function of patch area due to power supply limitations). Thus, I can only say I remember him reporting 0.022 ft.L black level, after pot tuning, vs. 0.036 ft.L on his untuned display. Conversely, I recall he had a max white of over 50 ft.L, while mine started at 25 ft.L, and ended up more like 40 ft.L. Some of this variance is due to the patch area/power supply capacity issue. BTW, that's an honest 1800:1 contrast ratio. (Dave, please feel free to comment if my memory is inaccurate.)
Frank, Your memory is pretty much right on as to the black levels (though my BL was 0.033 ft-l). As to the white level: when I started, you indicated that you were pretty happy with the peak white level, so I made no specific effort to raise it. The difference between the initial 100% (25 ft-l) and the final (40 ft-l) was largely due to improving the RGB balance at 100% (I increased High Green, and Green has the largest impact on measured luminance). I suspect that I could have increased peak white to 50 ft-l) on your display. Because your viewing room lighting was very well controlled, maximum brightness was not a goal. My viewing room lighting is not as well controlled, so I went for max peak white on my display.

In regards to peak white: There is a "trade-off" here. The higher the peak white is adjusted to, the earlier the display runs into power supply limiting and the earlier it runs into power supply limiting (inaccurately often referred to as the effects of ABL).

Regarding BT1886: It is a bit tricky (and time consuming) to do this.
  • The target curve is dependent on the actual 0% black and 100% white levels. So the target gamma is not a "standard" curve. It is different for each individual display.
  • Few displays have gamma settings at 10 point (or even 20 point) settings. However, if the display has multiple point White Balance settings, Gamma can be set to BT1886 with the appropriate instrumentation and software. In this case (at each % luminance point), Green is adjusted to achieve the desired luminance/gamma and then adjust Red and Blue at that point to achieve white balance. As Blue and Red also have a more limited impact on measured luminance, some "back and forth" is required.

    No matter what: to implement BT1886 you need:
    • Multi-point (10 or, better yet, 20) adjustments for either gamma or white balance on the display.
    • Appropriate instrumentation & software.

Dave Hancock

Last edited by davehancock; 04-01-2015 at 10:40 AM. Reason: Minor grammer
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post #1404 of 1765 Old 04-01-2015, 03:23 PM
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Update 40.03.03 50/6650

I got the update yesterday does anyone know what it does. I know it is probably the placebo effect but it seems my pic is brighter and generally better, is this even remotely possible. Thanks ron
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post #1405 of 1765 Old 04-01-2015, 07:11 PM
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So I've had the 60b5600 for 3 weeks. I have to admit, I'm a little concerned about how dim the picture is, especially the white. The colour looks great after some calibration, but it is just so much dimmer than my 7 year old Sanyo plasma. Part of me thinks that something is wrong with the set. Is there any relatively simple way to know if I'm over reacting? Do I just need to get used to the dimness?
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post #1406 of 1765 Old 04-02-2015, 03:54 AM
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I have my 60PB5600 for 3 weeks as well and close to 150 hours. I wouldn't consider my set dim if calibrated as per Picture Wizzard III. It has a vibrant, sharp and colorfull image. But blacks are average - below average at least. No comparison with my 32-inch Philips CRT. When there's a bright scene blacks are very good (but again in no way CRT-like) but when there's a dark one blacks get washed-out. This is my biggest complain so far with an otherwise great plasma set.
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post #1407 of 1765 Old 04-03-2015, 05:38 AM
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Hi Frank and Dave,

thanks for sharing very interesting and usefull informations, all your advices has made step by step to better picture by far on mine set ISF calibration was final update as I said with LED bias regulated 6500k white light behind the panel for contrast and blacks improvement so far, POT tuning is pending( I am not fan to do that, I see benefit will be still marginal, risk is bigger).

Mine set measurement are peak white 35,2 ftl only 120,7 cd m2 candellas which is like cinema standard I didn`t asked for more from my calibrator, as Dave said in mine darker room with only 1 small regulated window it is still no issue really and keeping power supply of TV not running to often out of juice making picture in brighter scenes still not underpowered by brightness. Before adjusting of calibration my panel was set upped to 38-9 ftl but after calibration picture is still much more punchy and clear, deep, colour balance is whole different story.
Black levels I have is 0,026 ftl which is 0,089 cd m2 without POT tuning. So checking Franks reading after POT tuning I am not so far without POT tuning with mine set finally, I hope with POT tuning I can hit at least 0,015-020 ftl improvement, for me 0,020ftl is more realistic to achieve 0,015 ftl is mines wish. But comparing with yours black readings, I am not that bad with mine set after all in LG plasma 2014 models league.

1 intereting thing I have found guys, on mine Sony blu ray player BDP S6200 , 24p should be turned off for Blu ray playback otherwise black levels are really light grey and ugly after this even 2D and 3D blu rays has OK black levels and finally looking now better like 1080p mkv high quality files. I recommend to try turn off 24p on blu ray player for some other people to improve black levels, I have no picture stuttering with 24p off visible.

Pls share any helpfull infos if you will have later on, and again big thanks from me again for opening mine mind and guiding

BR
Milan
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post #1408 of 1765 Old 04-03-2015, 11:24 AM
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Setting all inputs to pc helped with my black level and the pot tweak made the blacks inky with a sharp deep black cutoff on widescreen black bars. I'm curious if anybody else has messed with the input settings?
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post #1409 of 1765 Old 04-04-2015, 10:48 AM
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I have received my 50PB660V yesterday, yay!

Does it matter if I use "Orbiter" or "Normal" as ISM method during break-in period?

I am not sure if would be needing one yet but has anyone tried anti-glare films from glarestopper.com? Are they any good or worth the price? Can they really be removed without any trace left on the screen?

EC
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post #1410 of 1765 Old 04-07-2015, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davehancock View Post
...As to the white level: when I started, you indicated that you were pretty happy with the peak white level, so I made no specific effort to raise it. ...
In regards to peak white: There is a "trade-off" here. ...

No matter what: to implement BT1886 you need:...
Just to be clear, I was aware of the power tradeoff before we started, and consiously accepted a slightly lower contrast ratio in order to gain a more stable white level. This strikes me as simple good practice, akin to maximizing the area in a spider diagrams of multiple competing variables. And it is, in fact, hard to watch a dark scene containing a bright object!

Conversely, the difference in measured black level from the SET_UP/SET_DN pot tweak was surprising, but I suspect after calibration, it's just a "paper number." That is, a number folks use as proof of their display's quality, that's actually immaterial with viewing a properly-calibrated display. My number would be contrast at low white levels. which BT.1886 delivers.

Finally, take Dave's advice regarding BT.1886, as it's not trivial even with instrumentation, and will be unique for each display by intent of the standard. Now if you have the instrumentation, have at it!

Have fun,
Frank
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Last edited by fbov; 04-07-2015 at 02:17 PM.
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