Any more info on LG PB6600 (or other 2014 model) plasma? - Page 54 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1591 of 1765 Old 10-09-2015, 04:24 AM
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Originally Posted by billmcf View Post
My 60" PB6600 died at 14 months of age. I had bought the TV with my AMEX card, which doubles the manufacturer's warranty, so I filed a claim.

Called LG service center, who dispatched their own tech a day or two later (tech is an LG employee). Initial diagnosis was a bad DSP board. The tech didn't have the board on his truck, so LG shipped one to my house the next day. After it arrived, I called the tech, who showed up later that day. Unfortunately, the board didn't fix the problem. Revised diagnosis was a bad panel. There was no charge for the first or second trip.

The tech said it could take 6 weeks or longer to get a replacement panel, as there didn't appear to be any in North America. Fortunately, he called the next morning and said he could get a panel in two weeks. I agreed, so he showed up two weeks later and replaced the panel.

The total charge was $190 (part was covered but not labor). I put it on the AMEX card and was credited the full cost of the repair after filing the appropriate paperwork.

The new panel is much better than the original. The black level is good with no adjustments needed. The original panel's black level was so high, I had to adjust the internal Setup and Set-down pots to get a watchable picture. (I don't know whether those adjustments contributed to the panel's demise, but LG replaced it with no questions asked.)

In conclusion, I was pleased by the service I received from both LG and AMEX.
Glad someone had a good experience with them, certainly wasn't me. My TV is finally fixed now (6 week ordeal). If you do some digging online, you'll find some similar stories (especially for their appliances). It sounds like where you got lucky is with getting an actual LG repairman; I had to deal with a 3rd party who they subcontracted. They were very flakey and lacked any sense of urgency. I mean they had the replacement panel for over two weeks, but didn't want to come back and install it (every couple of days it was a new excuse). LG didn't really seem to care much either when we contacted them about how flakey the repair company was being. I will not be purchasing any more LG products in the foreseeable future.


BTW, how many hours did your TV have on it when the panel died? Mine had about 2,200 hours on it. Just wondering if it's typical for these LG plasmas to die after so long.
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post #1592 of 1765 Old 10-09-2015, 10:14 AM
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how many hours did your TV have on it when the panel died? Mine had about 2,200 hours on it. Just wondering if it's typical for these LG plasmas to die after so long.
I'll check this weekend and get back to you (assuming the repair tech didn't reset the counter).

The original panel had about 4300 hours on it when it failed.

Last edited by billmcf; 10-12-2015 at 12:37 PM. Reason: additional info
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post #1593 of 1765 Old 10-09-2015, 12:53 PM
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I think these panels are supposed to go 20k+ hours.

I have never had a plasma die, I've had a Hitachi, 3 Panasonic and now the LG. None except the Hitachi have many hours and I sold it, so it could be dead.
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post #1594 of 1765 Old 10-09-2015, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by gregoryperkins View Post
I think these panels are supposed to go 20k+ hours.

I have never had a plasma die, I've had a Hitachi, 3 Panasonic and now the LG. None except the Hitachi have many hours and I sold it, so it could be dead.
20k according to them, but realistically it's probably closer to 10k hrs. Plus there's plenty of other components to help make it fail sooner. Just kind of curious if these LG panels only last a couple of thousand hours. If so, the one I have may only last another year with all the tv that's watched in our household.
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post #1595 of 1765 Old 10-10-2015, 02:57 PM
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The sad thing is, 2 years from now a 60" plasma is probably going to be worth $100 at the rate that the 4k tvs are developing.
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post #1596 of 1765 Old 10-10-2015, 03:13 PM
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The sad thing is, 2 years from now a 60" plasma is probably going to be worth $100 at the rate that the 4k tvs are developing.
I don't see that happening, well not until OLED sets are affordable. Most of these 4k LED sets still don't come close to plasma picture quality.
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post #1597 of 1765 Old 10-11-2015, 04:50 AM
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It's probably not going to be oled, there are too many other technologies that seem to be simpler.

The big change is hdr and expanded color and that looks like it is coming soon. Vizio has already announced their r series with hdr. The 65" is a quantum dot set (not yet reviewed), and their recent m series gets very good reviews.

QD seems to be very promising now that it is being mass produced in larger sizes. The home theater geeks podcast did a deep dive on it in episode 275, it has lots of charts, so maybe best to watch rather than listen.

I honestly never expected Vizio to be leading the way...

But by then, we'll be in the middle of VR/AR, will people care about big sets or will we just be drooling on the couch with a 6" 4k phablet strapped to our face?
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post #1598 of 1765 Old 10-14-2015, 02:45 PM
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But by then, we'll be in the middle of VR/AR, will people care about big sets or will we just be drooling on the couch with a 6" 4k phablet strapped to our face?
I'll opt for a 4k cranial implant.
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post #1599 of 1765 Old 10-14-2015, 02:54 PM
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I'll check this weekend and get back to you (assuming the repair tech didn't reset the counter).

The original panel had about 4300 hours on it when it failed.
I didn't see that you replied, 4300 hours isn't too bad I guess, dont know why mine only lasted half as much. Did you notice image retention getting worse near the end of your last panel's life? Thought I had heard that about LG plasmas before (most likely around here).


Any other 60PB6600/6650 owners with high mileage care to chime in on how many hours your tv has?
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post #1600 of 1765 Old 10-14-2015, 04:15 PM
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I'll opt for a 4k cranial implant.
Why fall for the (only twice the resolution 4k pitch when 8k is just around the corner?
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post #1601 of 1765 Old 10-14-2015, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by gregoryperkins View Post
I think these panels are supposed to go 20k+ hours. I have never had a plasma die, I've had a Hitachi, 3 Panasonic and now the LG. None except the Hitachi have many hours and I sold it, so it could be dead.
The panels themselves are probably good for 60,000 hours...it's the other parts and circuitry that goes first.

My 2009 Philips 50" plasma just passed 22,000 hours (bought with 1,800). Broke at about 5,500 hours (capacitors) and now I think it's fixable again with something coming loose in the back.
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post #1602 of 1765 Old 10-15-2015, 02:56 PM
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I didn't see that you replied, 4300 hours isn't too bad I guess, dont know why mine only lasted half as much. Did you notice image retention getting worse near the end of your last panel's life?
I didn't notice any image retention or burn-in. After break-in, the performance was consistent until the panel failed.
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post #1603 of 1765 Old 10-24-2015, 05:08 PM
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Is anyone here with an older receiver running their input source directly to their receiver by S/PDIF? What is the offset you are using to sync up the picture and sound? Mine is floating somewhere between 350 - 400 ms...I think. Anyone else care to share their numbers?

With such a big delay I can't actually set the delay in my receiver (it doesn't support a window that big) so I have to configure it directly from the source (in my case XBMC / Kodi).

Alternatively I could use optical out from the TV but it doesn't seem to do DD / DTS passthrough. A couple of people have said otherwise, but I can't seem to get it to work. Does anyone have any suggestions?
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post #1604 of 1765 Old 10-24-2015, 05:09 PM
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Is anyone here with an older receiver running their input source directly to their receiver by S/PDIF? What is the offset you are using to sync up the picture and sound? Mine is floating somewhere between 350 - 400 ms...I think. Anyone else care to share their numbers?

With such a big delay I can't actually set the delay in my receiver (it doesn't support a window that big) so I have to configure it directly from the source (in my case XBMC / Kodi).

Alternatively I could use optical out from the TV but it doesn't seem to do DD / DTS passthrough. A couple of people have said otherwise, but I can't seem to get it to work. Does anyone have any suggestions?
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post #1605 of 1765 Old 10-29-2015, 01:26 PM
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I use hdmi and the delay is difficult to deal with. I can't figure out why this tv is processing video. I have most things turned off. At this time of year, I use the projector (dual hdmi receiver) so I can't set the delay for one without whacking the other.
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post #1606 of 1765 Old 11-01-2015, 11:51 AM
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To those experiencing audio sync issues, my suggestion would be to either rename your particular HDMI input to either PC or GAME. You can do this by pressing the input key and then pressing the red button on the bottom of the remote. The UI should be fairly easy to follow at this point.

Both PC and GAME selections eliminate post-processing computing hogs at native refresh rates which slow the picture coming to your display and result in audio arriving out of your receiver connected speakers first. Once you've selected either input, you're faced with a further selection of Picture Mode. There are six Picture Modes:Vivid, Standard, Movie, Game, ISF1 and ISF2. I have various devices connected to my receiver which all play back on HDMI 1 on the TV. Your selection of Input name and Picture Mode will persist across all of your devices connected through the receiver. I've found that the Game Picture Mode keeps the post-processing off at all refresh rates from 23.976hz to 60hz, which works great for synced audio off 24p bluray content and such. So Game Picture Mode is the winner of the six.

In terms of Input Name, I've found that the key difference between PC and GAME inputs is that PC Input + Game picture mode is locked at a Wide Color Gamut at native 59.94hz and 60hz. You are allowed to choose Standard Color Gamut at refresh rates lower than this (23.976, 24, 25, 29.97, 30 and 50) and your selection persists as the TV remembers them per refresh rate. As almost every movie and show is made for the Standard Color Gamut, the wide gamut at native 59 and 60hz results in an over saturated picture. Fortunately, choosing GAME Input + Game Picture Mode gives you the choice to adjust the color gamut to Standard at native 59 and 60hz. So GAME Input is the better (for me) of the two Inputs.

A final note on picture quality: run the Picture Wizard in a dark room. The result of the Picture Wizard is saved to ISF1 Picture Mode. Then, switch back and forth between the Game Picture Mode and the newly calibrated ISF1 Picture Mode using a paused background image on the TV. Try to adjust the picture settings manually for the Game Picture Mode to best match the calibrated ISF1. You don't want to leave ISF1 Picture Mode as it reintroduces the post-processing.
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post #1607 of 1765 Old 11-02-2015, 12:47 AM
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To those experiencing audio sync issues, my suggestion would be to either rename your particular HDMI input to either PC or GAME...

...I've found that the Game Picture Mode keeps the post-processing off at all refresh rates from 23.976hz to 60hz, which works great for synced audio off 24p bluray content and such. So Game Picture Mode is the winner of the six...
Thanks for the reply and the suggestions. You are right about the Game mode reducing the input lag introduced, there is still some input lag for 24p content that isn't present for 30p content, probably because 30fps content is doubled to 60 at my set top box and then sent to the tv, whereas 24p is processed with either 3:2 pulldown or 3:3 if real cinema is enabled at the TV. I think I am simply going to migrate to an HDMI receiver at some point where the lip sync can be done automatically. There are inexpensive used ones on CL that have all the features that I need. For now I am just using the optical out on the TV.

I have also found, if you are wanting to set the delay for an older receiver that I was wrong in my estimation earlier. The input lag is actually somewhere between 300 and 350 milliseconds (if you are passing 24p and have Real Cinema enabled with all the ugly post processing such as TruMotion and noise reduction off).

Last edited by totesmuhgoats; 11-02-2015 at 02:17 PM.
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post #1608 of 1765 Old 11-03-2015, 09:56 AM
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Thanks for the reply and the suggestions. You are right about the Game mode reducing the input lag introduced, there is still some input lag for 24p content that isn't present for 30p content, probably because 30fps content is doubled to 60 at my set top box and then sent to the tv, whereas 24p is processed with either 3:2 pulldown or 3:3 if real cinema is enabled at the TV. I think I am simply going to migrate to an HDMI receiver at some point where the lip sync can be done automatically. There are inexpensive used ones on CL that have all the features that I need. For now I am just using the optical out on the TV.

I have also found, if you are wanting to set the delay for an older receiver that I was wrong in my estimation earlier. The input lag is actually somewhere between 300 and 350 milliseconds (if you are passing 24p and have Real Cinema enabled with all the ugly post processing such as TruMotion and noise reduction off).
To reiterate, make sure you're using BOTH Game Input (or PC) and Game Picture Mode. This will be the best test of how low you can reduce your lag off your particular hardware.

I have some issues with the way LG puts out unclear documentation. This has led to some real confusion on what Real Cinema and 2:2 or 3:3 pulldown on the this TV is or isn't. I've tested bluray material playing at 24p on this TV in picture modes that make Real Cinema and Trumotion available and modes that don't make them available. Further, I've tested the picture with Real Cinema on and off (w/ Trumotion always off) in the modes that make it available. The modes without Real Cinema available have no noticeable audio sync issues while sync issues are present in the extreme in modes with Real Cinema, whether Real Cinema is turned on or off. Again, this is 24p playback, not native 60hz.

In terms of picture quality, the three states tested (Real Cinema unavailable, Real Cinema available and on, Real Cinema available and off) showed no discernible difference. Playback at 24p was equally smooth in all states. The TV was flicker-free in all states. I've posted in the past that it's hypothesized that this TV outputs 24p at 72hz using a 3:3 cadence. The 72hz is key, as it's widely known that the nature of plasma causes major flicker issues if 24p is actually played back at 24hz. The flicker is less intense but noticeable to many when this is doubled to 48hz using a 2:2 cadence. And, finally, absent to most everyone when it tripled (and beyond) to 72hz. Considering the lack of flicker and equally smooth playback in the three states I tested, my theory is that this TV locks this feature in when playing back 24p - there is no way to turn playback at 3:3 cadence on or off. The choice of Real Cinema is immaterial to 72hz playback as that is always the case during 24p playback.

I believe that picture modes that leave Real Cinema and Trumotion available introduce post-processing that only relates to interlaced signals (Real Cinema) and picture smoothing via frame interpolation (Trumotion). As frame interpolation is really only necessary on LCD/LED TVs to cancel out motion blur, Trumotion can always be left "off" in our plasmas. Real Cinema, on the other hand, is really only useful for inputs that receive an interlaced signal - cable/sat boxes, TV antennas. Real Cinema allows detection of the film based content behind the interlaced signal and then outputs a progressive signal at a 2:3 cadence to 60hz. Real Cinema does not take an interlaced signal and then output it at 24p. As certain devices will only ever output progressive signals - game systems, bluray, roku, apple - and play back content streaming the original progressive source file (as in Netflix streaming a movie), these devices will never need Real Cinema to detect interlaced signals that simply aren't there. However, any picture mode on this TV that leaves Real Cinema and Trumotion as options (whether checked or unchecked) creates a post-processing bump - an unnecessary bump for many modern devices.

LG, to my frustration, has confused the issue in its documentation by coupling the terms 24p and Real Cinema together. Real Cinema only detects the original 24p content behind an interlaced signal. It is NOT necessary for 24p playback of actual 24p material such as bluray movies. Choose a picture mode without Real Cinema for your bluray players and set-top devices that will only ever receive progressive signals.
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post #1609 of 1765 Old 11-04-2015, 11:35 AM
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My PB6650 just died. There was a pop and now the red power light flashes on and off at the same time a relay clicks. Fortunately I have two more days before the year warranty is up so I immediately contacted LG.

It sounds like a cap likely went bad. Are these panels known for this?
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post #1610 of 1765 Old 11-04-2015, 12:17 PM
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My PB6650 just died. There was a pop and now the red power light flashes on and off at the same time a relay clicks. Fortunately I have two more days before the year warranty is up so I immediately contacted LG. It sounds like a cap likely went bad. Are these panels known for this?
Could be....is it flashing a diagnostic signal ? Look on this 6650 Thread or similar 6600 or LG Threads on AVS Forum. Or try Googling or YouTubeing the problem.

Could be a $5 capacitor that blew and the rest of the circuit board is fine.

Is the LED Power button flashing a code ?
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post #1611 of 1765 Old 11-04-2015, 12:51 PM
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No, it's a slow steady cadence in sync with a relay.
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post #1612 of 1765 Old 11-04-2015, 12:59 PM
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No, it's a slow steady cadence in sync with a relay.
I don't know what that means....what happens when you try to turn the TV on....what happens to the LED POWER ON light ?
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post #1613 of 1765 Old 11-04-2015, 02:00 PM
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I don't know what that means....what happens when you try to turn the TV on....what happens to the LED POWER ON light ?
I have no idea how I could have made it more clear. The red LED flashes in sync with a relay. Unplug it and it doesn't. Plug it in and it does.
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post #1614 of 1765 Old 11-04-2015, 02:03 PM
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I have no idea how I could have made it more clear. The red LED flashes in sync with a relay. Unplug it and it doesn't. Plug it in and it does.
Is it flashing any code -- like 4 short flashes, 2 long ones ? Something like that....

I would think that somewhere on AVS Forum that the LG panel for the 6650 or a similar predecessor would have had some failures of circuit boards and the problem diagnosed.

I'm not as familiar with the LG's...just Philips and Samsungs.
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post #1615 of 1765 Old 11-04-2015, 02:21 PM
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I have no idea how I could have made it more clear. The red LED flashes in sync with a relay. Unplug it and it doesn't. Plug it in and it does.
Power Board. Since it's under warranty, should be an easy fix. Good luck.
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post #1616 of 1765 Old 11-04-2015, 06:10 PM
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Is it flashing any code -- like 4 short flashes, 2 long ones ? Something like that....
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No, it's a slow steady cadence in sync with a relay.
I had already posted what it was doing right above yours. My assumption is a cap failed in the power supply.
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post #1617 of 1765 Old 11-04-2015, 08:26 PM
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I had already posted what it was doing right above yours. My assumption is a cap failed in the power supply.
Sounds about right.....on the Philips 9630/31 models it was an easy diagnosis and fix. Scan around to see if others with your LG model had the same problem.
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post #1618 of 1765 Old 11-06-2015, 01:53 PM
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Dead y-sustain board. No parts, no replacement panels.

I wonder what LG is going to do? The service tech said LG would call me in a week or so. When he walked in and I told him what happened he actually said it was the y-board and the TV was a dead duck. Apparently this is a VERY common issue with these sets. He had a number of all the rest of the boards from sets that the y-board died.
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post #1619 of 1765 Old 11-06-2015, 03:10 PM
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Dead y-sustain board. No parts, no replacement panels. I wonder what LG is going to do? The service tech said LG would call me in a week or so. When he walked in and I told him what happened he actually said it was the y-board and the TV was a dead duck. Apparently this is a VERY common issue with these sets. He had a number of all the rest of the boards from sets that the y-board died.
No parts on Craigslist ? No other components shared by other TVs ??

I can't believe it can't be fixed with 2 or 3 caps or other small parts...it's not like everything on the board failed.
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post #1620 of 1765 Old 11-06-2015, 03:14 PM
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No parts on Craigslist ? No other components shared by other TVs ??

I can't believe it can't be fixed with 2 or 3 caps or other small parts...it's not like everything on the board failed.
I'm sure you're correct. All the caps looked fine but the board is shorted. There's a number of chips attached to two long heat sinks. Not really too many other components on the board. The tech said the board is supplied with 208vdc which seems to cause a number of failures.

If they don't have me send the set back I may try to repair the y-sus or find somebody that can. While the set isn't that great of a performer, it's better than many LCD sets I see.
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