Pioneer Kuro 9G Euro PDP-LX5090 with 8 blue blinks - Repair - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 37 Old 06-05-2014, 02:08 AM - Thread Starter
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I paid far too much for a faulty TV, but I really, really wanted my Kuro. This TV will intermittently power on, when it fails to power on it will flash the blue power light 8 times. When it powers on it works perfectly.

The fix is to replace a 1.8V regulator on the SCART A/V board, or to replace the entire A/V board assembly. Testing the regulator, when faulty, it outputs 0.01V, when working 1.79V (it's a 1.8V regulator). In the faulty state, a small amount of freeze spray will bring it back to life.

The regulator is hard to source in the UK, but it appears BA18BC0WFP will fit fine as a substitute part (the original is NJM2846.) The part does require moderate soldering skills (and of course a soldering iron) to replace.

Cost of the part is approx £1.50

Hope this helps someone else.
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post #2 of 37 Old 06-15-2014, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom669 View Post
I paid far too much for a faulty TV, but I really, really wanted my Kuro. This TV will intermittently power on, when it fails to power on it will flash the blue power light 8 times. When it powers on it works perfectly.

The fix is to replace a 1.8V regulator on the SCART A/V board, or to replace the entire A/V board assembly. Testing the regulator, when faulty, it outputs 0.01V, when working 1.79V (it's a 1.8V regulator). In the faulty state, a small amount of freeze spray will bring it back to life.

The regulator is hard to source in the UK, but it appears BA18BC0WFP will fit fine as a substitute part (the original is NJM2846.) The part does require moderate soldering skills (and of course a soldering iron) to replace.

Cost of the part is approx £1.50

Hope this helps someone else.
This repair worked for me as well. I have the Australian C509A model.

The IC regulator can be purchased here.

An excellent video walk-through the repair is shown below;


Patience should be taken with the removal of the faulty IC. It really does take up to a minute to heat up and melt the solder.
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post #3 of 37 Old 06-16-2014, 06:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Another Kuro rescued from the trash disposal. Great to hear. Mine is still working fine after this repair.
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post #4 of 37 Old 09-05-2014, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom669 View Post
I paid far too much for a faulty TV, but I really, really wanted my Kuro. This TV will intermittently power on, when it fails to power on it will flash the blue power light 8 times. When it powers on it works perfectly.<br><br>
The fix is to replace a 1.8V regulator on the SCART A/V board, or to replace the entire A/V board assembly. Testing the regulator, when faulty, it outputs 0.01V, when working 1.79V (it's a 1.8V regulator). In the faulty state, a small amount of freeze spray will bring it back to life.<br><br>
The regulator is hard to source in the UK, but it appears BA18BC0WFP will fit fine as a substitute part (the original is NJM2846.) The part does require moderate soldering skills (and of course a soldering iron) to replace.<br><br>
Cost of the part is approx £1.50<br><br>
Hope this helps someone else.
My pioneer 5090h had the same problem with yours....so i replace a 1.8V regulator and NOW is working !!!!!!!!

This repair worked for me as well.

THANK YOU SO MUCH !!!!!!
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post #5 of 37 Old 09-05-2014, 03:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pedrojam View Post
My pioneer 5090h had the same problem with yours....so i replace a 1.8V regulator and NOW is working !!!!!!!!

This repair worked for me as well.

THANK YOU SO MUCH !!!!!!
That is great to hear! My PDP-LX5090 is still going strong, and looks better than ever with the tweaks to the black level. I've never seen a panel that looked so good before.
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post #6 of 37 Old 03-07-2015, 04:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Yet another PDP-LX5090 fixed. 22,000hours and hardly any red tint and NO burn in. Same fault.

Friend drove 600 miles to pick it up, but was worth it
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post #7 of 37 Old 04-09-2015, 02:38 PM
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Hi,


thank you for good info about repair ... my PDP 5090H now works OK ..


but I use different solution , I use osciloscope and find problem on PIN 4 - NJM2846 I add new capacitor 22uF for stabilization.
when is this capacitor bad , that NJM2846 not works , when you replace I think that you have any time then your tv works but after some time you have some problém i think ..
we must add capacitor.... it is my solution

and result is : all works well ..


Best regards and sorry for my english
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post #8 of 37 Old 04-12-2015, 12:35 PM
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I have a Pioneer Elite Pro 507PU, and after many years of not having any trouble with it, it would not come on today and it started with a blinking blue lights that flashes 13 times.
I have seen on many forums that peoples TV's have blinked 12 times, but mine is blinking 13 times. I also have not had any luck with any information about how to trouble shoot the 507PU. If anyone out there can tell me how to fix my TV or at least tell me what the 13 blinking lights mean, I would appreciate it.
Thanks
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post #9 of 37 Old 04-16-2015, 05:45 PM
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I still have my UK Pioneer Kuro PDP LX5090 it doesn't seem to be a day older than the day I bought it. Only a reference 4K Ultra HD or better display using a technology that is superior to plasma will make me buy a new TV.


I have heard good things about OLED but LCD even when they are using LED's don't get the same respect as plasma. Judging by the comments I have heard it looks like this Kuro will be replaced with an OLED but not for a very long time.


Great to see that others still have them.
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post #10 of 37 Old 11-22-2015, 01:52 PM
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PDP - LX5090 8 blinks

Many thanks for the excellent posts above - especially the You Tube video. Couldn't have repaired my machine without them.


I had a 5 blue blink problem and a 12 blue blink problem, which took 3 visits to the repair shop and £250 to fix. So 3 weeks later when I started to suffer power-offs after 5 minutes use and the 8 blue blinks message, it was fix it myself or bin it. I bought this set in 2008 for £2200, but there comes a point......


The set dismantles fairly straightforwardly - just lots and lots of screws. The location of the faulty part is beautifully demonstrated in the video, as is the method of removal. I couldn't find the gas soldering iron recommended in the video so I bought an Irodo equivalent from Farnell. I used the blow torch attachment and it worked exactly as per the video.


Originally I ordered BA18BC0WFP-E2 as recommended elsewhere on t'internet. This is not the correct part for the 8 blink problem and only has 4 legs, not 5 - I must have misunderstood what that particular issue was. I've added a photo of it in situ - it sits on a board in the upper half of the set, directly above where the 8 blink problem is.


The video actually has the correct part number written in white early on in the video - I don't know how I missed it. NJM2846DL3-18 is the part number, available from charleshyde.co.uk who supplied me with an original Pioneer part.


Set is now working and hopefully will stay that way.


Thanks again for the help of the previous posters.
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post #11 of 37 Old 11-22-2015, 02:00 PM
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And of course it's Tom669, the OP, who recommended BA18BC0WFP-E2. No disrespect intended Tom, just when it arrived I saw 4 legs rather than 5 so I assumed something was wrong and started all over again.
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post #12 of 37 Old 12-09-2015, 07:28 PM
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I replaced the IC regulator in the video and still getting 8 blinks. Also I'm not getting any voltage to it. I ordered the PIONEER Repair Kit for PRO-111FD PRO-151FD PDP-5020FD PDP-6020FD (8 blue blinks)
It says it has three parts. does anyone know what other parts are in it?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nobeam View Post
I replaced the IC regulator in the video and still getting 8 blinks. Also I'm not getting any voltage to it. I ordered the PIONEER Repair Kit for PRO-111FD PRO-151FD PDP-5020FD PDP-6020FD (8 blue blinks)
It says it has three parts. does anyone know what other parts are in it?

Any update on your repair? I had the 8 blinking lights once, unplugged, waited a few minutes, plugged back in and it has worked fine, until yesterday. TV was on, turned off when we left for a while, tried to turn on when arrived back home. Back to the 8 blinking lights. Tried numerous times to power off, unplug, discharge with button on TV and then plug in and power up. Many times back to blinking lights. Finally found a thread on another forum that said possibly an hdmi handshake issue. Unplugged all hdmi cables, went through unplug and power back on, power latched on and I plugged hdmi back in and had no issues. I have no idea if the hdmi had anything do with it working, maybe just gave it enough time to cool down and it stayed on. This is on a Pro-151FD. If the issue comes back, will pull the back off and trace some voltages to see if the regulator is the problem. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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post #14 of 37 Old 02-27-2016, 05:52 AM
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Hi to all,
My poor lx5090 present a black band (pixels off) start from bottom to middle Panel large 10cm ...what can ne happened??
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post #15 of 37 Old 04-08-2016, 03:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom669 View Post
I paid far too much for a faulty TV, but I really, really wanted my Kuro. This TV will intermittently power on, when it fails to power on it will flash the blue power light 8 times. When it powers on it works perfectly.

The fix is to replace a 1.8V regulator on the SCART A/V board, or to replace the entire A/V board assembly. Testing the regulator, when faulty, it outputs 0.01V, when working 1.79V (it's a 1.8V regulator). In the faulty state, a small amount of freeze spray will bring it back to life.

The regulator is hard to source in the UK, but it appears BA18BC0WFP will fit fine as a substitute part (the original is NJM2846.) The part does require moderate soldering skills (and of course a soldering iron) to replace.

Cost of the part is approx £1.50

Hope this helps someone else.
Hi,

I've got the same problem. However, I'm not technically skilled to do this job myself. I'll most likely end up soldering a whole into our carpet or fusing the entire house.

Can anyone recommend a reputable (preferably Pioneer-certified, if such a thing still exists) repairer who can do this for me?

Many thanks in advance for your help.

Kind regards,
Simon
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post #16 of 37 Old 04-08-2016, 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by SimonP74 View Post
Hi,

I've got the same problem. However, I'm not technically skilled to do this job myself. I'll most likely end up soldering a whole into our carpet or fusing the entire house.

Can anyone recommend a reputable (preferably Pioneer-certified, if such a thing still exists) repairer who can do this for me?

Many thanks in advance for your help.

Kind regards,
Simon
It might be helpful if we knew where you're located.
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post #17 of 37 Old 05-17-2016, 01:28 PM
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It might be helpful if we knew where you're located.
My apologies. In NW London.
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post #18 of 37 Old 05-17-2016, 03:11 PM
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My apologies. In NW London.
Check AV Forums for referrals.
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post #19 of 37 Old 05-22-2016, 06:31 AM
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Check AV Forums for referrals.
Would you please advise me which particular forum would be best to read?
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post #20 of 37 Old 05-22-2016, 01:37 PM
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This will get you started.

https://www.avforums.com/search/9637...&o=relevance&c[node]=82
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post #21 of 37 Old 07-11-2016, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom669 View Post
The regulator is hard to source in the UK, but it appears BA18BC0WFP will fit fine as a substitute part (the original is NJM2846.) The part does require moderate soldering skills (and of course a soldering iron) to replace.

Cost of the part is approx £1.50

Hope this helps someone else.
3,92€ plus shipping but its in german

but i am not allowed to post links yet
so remove the x
wXwXwX.etus-landgraf.comXXXX/teile-shop/unsere-marken/pioneer/tv-plasma/pdp-r06u/njm2846dl3-18-detail
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post #22 of 37 Old 07-12-2016, 01:50 AM
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Service Manual

i just received the Pioneer Service Manual
"Shutdown, SD 8 times blue LED blinking, but in some cases 9 times"
Attached Files
File Type: pdf QH14010.pdf (323.3 KB, 1861 views)
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post #23 of 37 Old 08-30-2016, 05:24 PM
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Thanks everyone who posted info on the 8 blinks problem. I used the information here to repair my kuro pro-151fd. I got the required IC chip from digi-key. I used a Weller hot-air soldering iron like the one seen in the video. The removal of the old chip was pretty straight forward. On installing the new chip, I tried to use a small soldering iron to set one of the chip pins in place prior to using the hot-air gun. I think this is what the tech does in the video. This didn't work well for me and I ended up moving the chip and pulling one of the copper pads for the chip's legs off the board. The pad is tiny. I thought that I might be screwed at this point, but with patience I managed to get the pad back in place. I think for an amateur I'd recommend avoiding an iron where you have to touch the chip. I found it very tough to keep a steady hand working on such a small chip.
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post #24 of 37 Old 12-29-2016, 01:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leggoslave View Post
This repair worked for me as well. I have the Australian C509A model.


That's reassuring. I also have the C5090. Mine is usually fine unless I change from one HDMI input to another. Sometimes, though, it won't start up and I have to turn it off at the wall for a minute or two.

I want to rescue it as it has easily the best picture of anything I've seen so far. All the OLED stuff looks brittle and artificial in comparison.

Can you tell me how hard it is to pull the board, and if there are any caps that I need to be worried about? I've done a bit inside laptops but TVs are a different thing.

Thanks from a newbie.
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post #25 of 37 Old 12-29-2016, 02:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bailey1987 View Post
I still have my UK Pioneer Kuro PDP LX5090 it doesn't seem to be a day older than the day I bought it. Only a reference 4K Ultra HD or better display using a technology that is superior to plasma will make me buy a new TV.


I have heard good things about OLED but LCD even when they are using LED's don't get the same respect as plasma. Judging by the comments I have heard it looks like this Kuro will be replaced with an OLED but not for a very long time.


Great to see that others still have them.
Have to agree. I think I might start collecting them!
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post #26 of 37 Old 12-29-2016, 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Greebo124 View Post
That's reassuring. I also have the C5090. Mine is usually fine unless I change from one HDMI input to another. Sometimes, though, it won't start up and I have to turn it off at the wall for a minute or two.

I want to rescue it as it has easily the best picture of anything I've seen so far. All the OLED stuff looks brittle and artificial in comparison.

Can you tell me how hard it is to pull the board, and if there are any caps that I need to be worried about? I've done a bit inside laptops but TVs are a different thing.

Thanks from a newbie.
Not that hard mate. Obviously power down the telly and leave it off for an hour or so to let the Caps drain. Removing the back panel is a little time-consuming as there are a lot of screws to remove. From memory there are about 3 or 4 types, so keep track of where you're removing them from. Use different containers or tape them down on the panel next to their holes.

To get to the Digital Assembly board you have to remove the PC board first I recall. Just take care with the ribbon connectors.

Once you get the board out, take your time warming the solder up..it can take over a minute..always moving the blow iron around the IC. Same with re-soldering.

Just take your time and be patient. You should be right.
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post #27 of 37 Old 02-13-2017, 02:52 AM
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Hello,
My PDX 5090 Kuro is on the blink too. I have to do the repair m'self as we live in rural France and a call out would be the cost of a new telly! I'm a complete novice at this and have checked the various 'how to' threads and YouTube videos. I got the IC reg. from Digi-Key. Your guidance on gaining access to the regulator was the last 'how to' jigsaw piece - thanks. But this novice couldn't see how the PC board is fixed in place, so could you walk me through the procedure, please. Also, advice varies on what type of soldering iron to use. I don't have a blow iron and hope to make do with a conventional iron and a range of small bits. But if you think a blow iron is essential can you recommend a reasonably cheap kit that's fit for purpose. Thanks in anticipation.
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post #28 of 37 Old 03-30-2018, 05:01 AM
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by mscism View Post
I have a Pioneer Elite Pro 507PU, and after many years of not having any trouble with it, it would not come on today and it started with a blinking blue lights that flashes 13 times.
I have seen on many forums that peoples TV's have blinked 12 times, but mine is blinking 13 times. I also have not had any luck with any information about how to trouble shoot the 507PU. If anyone out there can tell me how to fix my TV or at least tell me what the 13 blinking lights mean, I would appreciate it.
Thanks
Dear friend, I've got an LX508D and still in love with it
This morning for the first time in 10 years it did fail starting up: the same 13 blue flashes.
I removed the AC cable, waited 30mins, kept pressed the ON button for 30secs to discharge anything. Then it started again, with no problems. Up to now is ok again...

Nonetheless I'm afraid something else will happen over time: I found the service manual and understood the 13 blinks are related to a failure in the power supply. Give a look to the enclosed PDF. Don't honestly how simple or hard it would be to understand the exact part to substitute, find the part and manage the repair.
Any ideas, you experts out there? TIA!
Attached Files
File Type: pdf KuroLX508D Blink Issue.pdf (416.8 KB, 213 views)
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post #29 of 37 Old 04-01-2018, 08:10 AM
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I've just had the same issue on a LX6090H.
Checked the service manual for the LX508D and it's exactly the same issue.
Failure of the voltage regulators on the main assembly, IC8406.
Main assembly order number is AWV2464.
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post #30 of 37 Old 11-14-2018, 06:15 PM
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So I accidentally broke the bridge connector between the MAIN and the IO_AUDIO assy. Anyone know the part number for that?
I have the service manual, but I can't figure out what it is..
Thnx!
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