Samsung PN64F8500AFXZA Issues with turning on - Page 15 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #421 of 444 Old 12-30-2018, 09:54 AM
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I have a PN60F8500 that died last September. For a year or so before that, the menu screens would occasionally freeze when you were navigating them. Turning the TV off/on would fix it. Then two weeks before it completely died, it would power off after being on for a minute or two, and the standby light would go out. After a few seconds, it would turn itself on again. Then it completely died, and I guessed it was the power supply and sent it to Nick's TV in Tuscon.

When it came back, I reinstalled it, but it wouldn't power on. After a couple of days, I smelled burning circuits and noticed the standby light blinking. I then unplugged it and called a local TV repair shop. Unbeknownst to me, they then sent the main board to Nick's TV too.

When the local repair shop returned the TV to me, it would power on, but if you used the menus, they would quickly freeze and you'd have to unplug it to get it to reboot. If you just watched something using an HDMI input, it might go 30 minutes before it would freeze and/or reboot. I then sent both boards back to Nick's TV.

When they came back, they said they repaired a resistor in the power supply that they assumed was the burning circuit I smelled. They said nothing about the main board. I put both boards back in, but the menus still freeze quickly with any use, followed by a reboot, and it still freezes/reboots after a few minutes if you just try to watch something using an HDMI input.

Does anyone have any insight into which board is causing the trouble? If Nick's TV really did fix both the main board and power supply, could this be caused by the capacitor trouble with the Y-board? By the way, the Samsung Support menu now says the TV is a PN51F8500, so I think they replaced my original board with a used one.
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post #422 of 444 Old 12-30-2018, 10:30 AM
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Nick's TV

Based upon the last couple examples where this company has been cited, I only have two words. Steer. Clear.
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post #423 of 444 Old 01-12-2019, 10:21 AM
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I have the dreaded 5 flashes... no picture. Clicking in a relay. Bought Main, Y-Sus and Power boards from TVPartsToday.com, and replaced all three. Didn't fix the problem. My gut says the Y-Board I received was bad. Very frustrating. When mine went out, there was a flash from the back, yet I can find absolutely no evidence of a diode or anything that is burned, unless it is under one of the massive heat syncs. Pulled all boards and inspected all solder joints. Nothing funky. So discouraged, as I have spent a fortune. A comparable TV today would cost $2000, so I wanted to get it working. Pretty sure it can't be the X-sustain, but it's the only board I haven't replaced. Wondering if something blew behind the panel and I am just wasting my time. So depressing. Grrrrrrr.
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post #424 of 444 Old 01-14-2019, 07:57 AM
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An interesting discovery. Samsung is facing class-action lawsuits in several states (California, Illinois, New Jersey, and Florida if my memory is correct) due to this issue.


The lawsuits allege that Samsung knowingly used poorly rated and substandard parts (capacitors in particular), in order to price the plasma more competitively. These parts degraded from the heat stress produced by plasma technology, leading to the premature failure of numerous Samsung plasmas. And, Samsung did not produce or stock parts to repair the defective plasma TVs.


It'll be interesting to see if any of these class action lawsuits win. We might all be getting a coupon for $5.00 off a $2000.00 Samsung purchase one of these days.


Google the terms Samsung plasma class action for more details.
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post #425 of 444 Old 01-18-2019, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowspawn View Post
An interesting discovery. Samsung is facing class-action lawsuits in several states (California, Illinois, New Jersey, and Florida if my memory is correct) due to this issue.


The lawsuits allege that Samsung knowingly used poorly rated and substandard parts (capacitors in particular), in order to price the plasma more competitively. These parts degraded from the heat stress produced by plasma technology, leading to the premature failure of numerous Samsung plasmas. And, Samsung did not produce or stock parts to repair the defective plasma TVs.


It'll be interesting to see if any of these class action lawsuits win. We might all be getting a coupon for $5.00 off a $2000.00 Samsung purchase one of these days.


Google the terms Samsung plasma class action for more details.
Hi guys, it is crazy how this plasmas are dying. I know 2 people with the same plasmas and both TVs are dead. One power board not fixable, the guy literally through it away and got him self LG OLED, the other, panel went dead after a year and was replaced under warranty with another TV. Guy decided, he does not want it. Now to my story. 2013 build, bought 2014 on so called End of range sale. I'm from South Africa and the TV was build locally as well if this makes any difference. Long story short, after the heat wave, that we were having here around end Dec beginning of Jan, my TV decided not to start up anymore with the same symptoms. I do have 3 year extended warranty through a local insurance company, so initially I did not worry too much. After sending a technician and inspecting my TV, they decided, that it is not economically feasible to fix it and they offered me a replacement set of Samsung 65MU7350 TV. Which obviously it is a worse TV, then mine. When I pointed to them, that my TV was 3k and now they offering me a TV, that is 1.5k, their answer was, that if my TV was working, I would have been able to sell it if I'm lucky for that price. I have told them, that I have been a Plasma guy for more then 10 years and I don't want a stinky LED crap, but since plasma is not anymore available, conveniently for them, there is not much else, that they can offer me. So, I came across this thread and ordered the capacitors. I saw, that some guys were offered gift cards from Best Buy for up to 73% from the price of the set, unfortunately here in SA, we are not that lucky. Will let you know, how it goes guys. Personally, I believe what Samsung has done, needs to be taken to court and I hope they going to get their butt kicked in the US.
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post #426 of 444 Old 02-10-2019, 06:23 AM
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PN64F8500 Turning off randomly

My PN64F8500 was purchased in Jan. 2015. It is now turning off randomly and then it won't turn back on right away. I have to wait about 5 minutes and then it comes back on automatically. What could be the problem?
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post #427 of 444 Old 02-10-2019, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by kasedogg View Post
My PN64F8500 was purchased in Jan. 2015. It is now turning off randomly and then it won't turn back on right away. I have to wait about 5 minutes and then it comes back on automatically. What could be the problem?
In all likelihood, that is the problem discussed in this thread. It will eventually progress to not turning on at all, or turning on after being off for quite a while, but with only sound and no picture.

Can be fixed by replacing the Y-Sustain board (possibly available on eBay), by removing the board and sending it away to a service that will fix it (eBay again), or by removing the board and replacing the three ceramic capacitors yourself or taking it to a local service to replace them for you (what I did).

This thread shows which capacitors to replace, and what to replace them with for a few dollars from Mouser.


Edit: This guy seems to sell an extensive repair kit pretty reasonably, although by all accounts replacing just the three suspect caps works: http://www.coppelltvrepair.com/p/137...-dropping-down

Last edited by shadowspawn; 02-10-2019 at 10:45 AM.
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post #428 of 444 Old 02-10-2019, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowspawn View Post
In all likelihood, that is the problem discussed in this thread. It will eventually progress to not turning on at all, or turning on after being off for quite a while, but with only sound and no picture.

Can be fixed by replacing the Y-Sustain board (possibly available on eBay), by removing the board and sending it away to a service that will fix it (eBay again), or by removing the board and replacing the three ceramic capacitors yourself or taking it to a local service to replace them for you (what I did).

This thread shows which capacitors to replace, and what to replace them with for a few dollars from Mouser.


Edit: This guy seems to sell an extensive repair kit pretty reasonably, although by all accounts replacing just the three suspect caps works: http://www.coppelltvrepair.com/p/137...-dropping-down
Thank you for the quick response!
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post #429 of 444 Old 02-10-2019, 02:13 PM
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Hey guys was curious if anyone had any issues with the adhesive for the rubber spacer on the back of the cover melting seeping down the back of the display? I started having the same issue many have described with the video turning off periodically, sometimes not coming back on unless I unplug. It finally failed and would only click to turn on, no image, and turn off after 10 seconds, over and over again. I looked at the back of the display and found the adhesive leaked out the back. I took the cover off and on one of the heat sinks on the main board was also the adhesive oil and right next to the heat sink are what looks like two shorted chips.

I realize this is very similar to what other people experience when caps start to go bad but none of the caps visually appear to be blown on any of the boards and when I isolate the boards and I disconnect the Y-sustain board it still happens. When I then disconnect the Y and X sus boards it still happens. So I went ahead and purchased a "new" main board from Ebay and install it and now I can't even get it to boot up. I get the red LED light flash 5 times then nothing.

What's odd is with the original failed board I had proper voltages to main board, VS, VA, among others. With the "new" board I can't even get it to power on and it shows very low voltages for VS and VA. It's like I have taken a step back.

It's really frustrating because like everyone knows this is a fantastic set and really can and should be saved. I am just not sure where to go with it next especially since the seller obviously wont allow me to return the board and I dont know if I want to go down the path of buying another main board that "might" work.
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post #430 of 444 Old 02-13-2019, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by shadowspawn View Post
In all likelihood, that is the problem discussed in this thread. It will eventually progress to not turning on at all, or turning on after being off for quite a while, but with only sound and no picture.

Can be fixed by replacing the Y-Sustain board (possibly available on eBay), by removing the board and sending it away to a service that will fix it (eBay again), or by removing the board and replacing the three ceramic capacitors yourself or taking it to a local service to replace them for you (what I did).

This thread shows which capacitors to replace, and what to replace them with for a few dollars from Mouser.


Edit: This guy seems to sell an extensive repair kit pretty reasonably, although by all accounts replacing just the three suspect caps works: http://www.coppelltvrepair.com/p/137...-dropping-down
I had a local tech repair my PN64f8500 yesterday. He removed the power supply and repaired it using a soldering iron. He said I had some cold solder joints. It only took him about 15 minutes to repair them. The tv turns on now and stays on although I have only watched it for about an hour. I showed him the Samsung tech notes posted in this thread, but he said that was not the issue with my tv.
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Last edited by kasedogg; 02-13-2019 at 07:26 AM.
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post #431 of 444 Old 02-17-2019, 05:36 AM
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I want to express my gratitude towards all that contributed to this thread. My Chad B calibrated 64F8500 was exhibiting symptoms that pointed to the 3 10uF capacitor problem. I repaired it last night and all is well. It took me a while because I cut a few legs too short with my flush mount cutters, but managed to get the legs of the new caps attached and reading 0 ohms at the C5207 points.
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post #432 of 444 Old 03-04-2019, 02:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Daniel R. Newman View Post
Hey guys was curious if anyone had any issues with the adhesive for the rubber spacer on the back of the cover melting seeping down the back of the display? I started having the same issue many have described with the video turning off periodically, sometimes not coming back on unless I unplug. It finally failed and would only click to turn on, no image, and turn off after 10 seconds, over and over again. I looked at the back of the display and found the adhesive leaked out the back. I took the cover off and on one of the heat sinks on the main board was also the adhesive oil and right next to the heat sink are what looks like two shorted chips.
Same problem here. My problem started a few days after I mounted the display to the wall, angled 15 degrees down. This could have allowed the oily stuff coming out of the heatsink to hit the mainboard. TV powered down and is since then stuck in a bootloop, 16s long.

Same thing with every board but the SMPS and the mainboard disconnected.
Green LED on the backside flashing once per second, red ones on the front flashing 5 times. All voltages are there, capacitors in Y Sustain replaced.

Going into test mode (shortening the holes 1-2 in the US, and 3-4 for Europe) puts the thing into test mode. Screen switches on, goes from white to red, then the 16s are over and it powers down again.

I cannot detect any activity from the CPU (like activity on SCA/SCLK). Probably some kind of protection kicks in to reboot the CPU.

This would be the time for a new mainboard. Unfortunately, this is the european version F8590, which has a different mainboard from the US version. Supplies of these has run out long ago, they never were popular over here.

I will probably try a mainboard from a F8500, if I can find any. And of course, nobody besides Samsung knows if this will be compatible.
Can do without the tuners, the rest should be the same.
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post #433 of 444 Old 03-07-2019, 06:30 PM
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Hello guys, first of all thanks for all the amazing info in this thread.

I would like to confirm if my PL64F8500 have the same issue as described in this thread. I really don't use the television too much, it was bought in January 2014 and it worked without hassles. I don't know if it had the problems of slow startup and things like this because my parents watched this TV. I'm not a TV guy.

But today, I just powered the TV on and I hear a loud clap sound (like an explosion) and the TV failed to power on.

I can't confirm if I do have audio on the TV since I don't know in which Source the television is at the moment. I tried to plug my MacBook on the HDMI port and the computer detected the television set and changed the resolution to 1080p which is correct, but I can't listed to any sound.

Anyway, there's the 5 blinking red lights in the front panel in loop. So it's safe to assume it's an Y-Main problem? I can assume the clap sound was a ceramic capacitor blowing up?

Thanks,
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post #434 of 444 Old 03-11-2019, 08:06 AM
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An incredibly useful thread... So much information here. I registered just to thank everyone who contributed here especially those who researched the issue and solution as well as document the procedure. THANK YOU! I replaced the 3 capacitors with 3 new ones from Mouser and my TV is fixed! Such a great feeling to see the glass turn on...


Interestingly on my PN64F8500 the one of the capacitors is labelled C5050 and not C5150 as per the service note from Samsung.
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post #435 of 444 Old 04-07-2019, 07:45 PM
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Thumbs up

I just registered to say thank you to all contributors of this fantastic thread!

I bought my F8500 around mid 2013. I didn't use it as much as I thought I would, literally wouldn't turn it on during weeks but my father would come visit on Sundays and he would sit and watch TV almost all day.

Last year while he was watching TV we heard a loud clap and the TV would restart and click with no video and sound. We called a technician who solved the issue by fixing the X and Y boards. So far so good, the TV came back to life and everything was great. Again, I didn't use the TV as much and now with more precaution than ever.

Last week I was cleaning my TV room and left the blu-ray player on so the TV was on stand-by showing the screen protection 'Samsung' logo, then the screen went black but TV was still on, tried to go to the menu using the remote and nothing, I then turned it off and by the time I wanted to turn it on almost instantly, bam! no image but sound after 10 or 15 seconds.

In a nutshell, this TV is facing the same issue you guys have wonderfully discussed here. The TV still turns on -- and that's why I can't pinpoint when the problem started, because I would just watch a movie or two then turn it off and not use the TV again after several days or weeks.

I want to be prepared when the TV completely dies so I tried to order the capacitors that a member shared with the following link: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...20X7S1H106KRT6 but they're out of stock. I found these (currently available): https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...20X7R1H106KRT6 and I can see that the only difference is that the ones out of stock are X7S (22% in Temperature Coefficient) while the ones in stock are X7R (15% in Temperature Coefficient).

My question is very simple, can I order those without problem?

Thanks again for your help and I hope I never have to replace the capacitors but better be prepared if I do!
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post #436 of 444 Old 04-08-2019, 01:02 PM
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Yes these should be fine if all other specs are the same. That Max temp is also the key as the original part only went to 85c and that is why it failed
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post #437 of 444 Old 04-21-2019, 11:49 PM
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Has anyone had any power problems or have any expirence with the 51" model? I was hoping the board would be same so I could follow the 3 cap replacement that's been laid out here, but of course it doesn't have them. Any suggestions? Replace every cap on Y and Power supply? lol
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post #438 of 444 Old 05-09-2019, 08:45 AM
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My PN64F8500 died on Tuesday evening. No noise or anything - just went off. Would I be correct that this thread points to the same issue? I have a request into a repair company (for Monday I guess). I am also debating on replacing the unit. It has been a great TV, awesome picture, etc.

But I am wondering if a new OLED 4K TV is the better way to go.

Anyone have thoughts on that? I may still see if I can repair this TV, and sell it - or install it else where.
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post #439 of 444 Old 05-10-2019, 03:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Hutcheson View Post
My PN64F8500 died on Tuesday evening. No noise or anything - just went off. Would I be correct that this thread points to the same issue? I have a request into a repair company (for Monday I guess). I am also debating on replacing the unit. It has been a great TV, awesome picture, etc.

But I am wondering if a new OLED 4K TV is the better way to go.

Anyone have thoughts on that? I may still see if I can repair this TV, and sell it - or install it else where.
It could be only a capacitor fault. Do not throw it away before trying to find someone who could change the possibly dead caps. Take a look here, it's very easy - I've done it myself!

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-p...l#post50174321

I've done it more than 2 years ago, also installed vents on the back which are automatically (via smart plug) turned on each day at 6pm and off at 1am. And I'm happy.

Due to heat issues wee are mostly watching the set on film mode with cell lightning set to 16.

Hope my unit will last some time.
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post #440 of 444 Old 05-10-2019, 07:47 AM
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I am going to go the repair route first. Thanks for the post.
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post #441 of 444 Old 05-14-2019, 01:31 PM
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Since this site helped me fix my own expensive TV, I thought that I'd contribute my own experience with it in case it helps someone else in some way. I owe a large debt to this forum to save me from throwing out my cherished TV!

I purchased my Samsung PN64F8500 in November 2013 along with a 5 yr extended warrantee. The place I purchased it from went out of business about 2 years later. The TV died in Sept. 2016 - it clicked while trying to power on and only infrequently would actually turn on. Once it was on, it seems to work OK.

I called the service company and they sent a tech out to look at it. He diagnosed it to a bad Y-Main board, but could NOT find a replacement anywhere. I did not like any of the other LED TVs they offered as a replacement, so I took the cash buyout and purchased a 55" LG OLED by kicking in a few hundred $ more. (I really like the OLED, but still missed the 64" plasma.) That's when I began researching into this issue and stumbled on the AVS forum. I even purchased the service manual for the TV which promised to have schematics in it (it did NOT!).

For a couple years, I left the TV in our enclosed porch until I finally got serious about fixing it - which came a few weeks ago. I ordered 10 of the famous caps from Mouser (thanks to other posts!) and downloaded the Samsung service bulletins that someone else posted here.

Following the service bulletin for this issue, I removed the back and proceeded to check the voltages related to the cap failures. I did not see the voltages I was supposed to and was now unsure if my TV was actually exhibiting the related failure mode that the caps are supposed to fix. Further on-line research led me to other tips and eventually I found a small connector from the power supply to the X-Main board that was not quite seated fully enough to make good contact. (The service tech apparently didn't bother to make sure the TV was restored to its original state as I requested.) With the connector fully seated, I now measured the right voltages at the key test points.

It's important to note that there are a couple voltages (VS & VSCAN) that the tech bulletin instructs you to check and they will decay slowly if the TV has an issue related to the VSCAN failure that can be fixed by replacing the three 10uF caps. As a further check, I found that disconnecting one end of the flat ribbon cable between the Y-Main and the Main board will allow these voltages to remain steady because the error signal from the Y-Main board is blocked from the Main board and it does not automatically shutdown those voltages.

Now that I was reading the proper voltages at the test points, I could verify that they decayed slowly after I reconnected the flat ribbon cable (do this with the TV unplugged!). Satisfied that I was now looking at the exact VSCAN issue in this thread, I prepared to replace the caps. I chose to leave the board installed, so I placed the TV on top of a table so I could access the caps easily while sitting comfortably. In addition to positioning a strong task light on the work area, I wore a headlamp to illuminate the area I was working. (Good lighting is very important in this type of work.)

Following the advice on this forum as well as the service bulletin, I snipped off the caps while leaving the leads as long as possible. I carefully tinned each of those leads with solder without heating the leads up too much to avoid causing connectivity issues with the solder connection to the multi-layer circuit board. I then snipped off the new caps from their carrier strips so they had about a half inch on each lead. I brushed on a small bead of solder on the lower part of these leads to prepare them for the tack solder to the old cap leads.

I tack soldered the middle cap first as suggested in the bulletin. This way, I was able to bend the cap slightly to either side as I worked on the two outside caps. I kept the soldering tip on the leads only as long as needed for the solder to melt together and hold the caps in place. My work was far from pretty, but it looked like things made a solid connection which is all that matters. After carefully inspecting my work to verify nothing was shorted and there was sufficient space between the leads and other components/pads, I plugged the TV in and heard that beautiful sing-song of the powering up sequence through the speakers!

By the time I went around to the front of the TV, it was already displaying the apps that it was updating. I did a check of the test point voltages to make sure they matched the voltages on the inside label and put the TV through its paces with audio and video tests and verifying the WiFi connection to make sure it connected to my Netflix account. Everything worked!

Note that replacing the three caps with ones of the same 10uF rating, the TV is less apt to drift from the calibrated voltages on the inside label. If the voltages do not match the ones on the label, then adjustment of the voltages is required or the TV could experience video anomalies or non-optimal picture quality. The service bulletin explains how to do this.

The TV has since replaced the LG OLED in our family room in time to watch the destruction of King's Landing in Game of Thrones. The operation was a success!

So - many thanks to members of this forum for providing the info I needed to perform this repair as well as links to service bulletins and replacement parts. If my little story helps even one person fix their own TV, then it was worth the time it took me to write it.

Thank you!
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post #442 of 444 Old 05-15-2019, 08:01 AM
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Since this site helped me fix my own expensive TV, I thought that I'd contribute my own experience with it in case it helps someone else in some way. I owe a large debt to this forum to save me from throwing out my cherished TV!

I purchased my Samsung PN64F8500 in November 2013 along with a 5 yr extended warrantee. The place I purchased it from went out of business about 2 years later. The TV died in Sept. 2016 - it clicked while trying to power on and only infrequently would actually turn on. Once it was on, it seems to work OK.

I called the service company and they sent a tech out to look at it. He diagnosed it to a bad Y-Main board, but could NOT find a replacement anywhere. I did not like any of the other LED TVs they offered as a replacement, so I took the cash buyout and purchased a 55" LG OLED by kicking in a few hundred $ more. (I really like the OLED, but still missed the 64" plasma.) That's when I began researching into this issue and stumbled on the AVS forum. I even purchased the service manual for the TV which promised to have schematics in it (it did NOT!).

For a couple years, I left the TV in our enclosed porch until I finally got serious about fixing it - which came a few weeks ago. I ordered 10 of the famous caps from Mouser (thanks to other posts!) and downloaded the Samsung service bulletins that someone else posted here.

Following the service bulletin for this issue, I removed the back and proceeded to check the voltages related to the cap failures. I did not see the voltages I was supposed to and was now unsure if my TV was actually exhibiting the related failure mode that the caps are supposed to fix. Further on-line research led me to other tips and eventually I found a small connector from the power supply to the X-Main board that was not quite seated fully enough to make good contact. (The service tech apparently didn't bother to make sure the TV was restored to its original state as I requested.) With the connector fully seated, I now measured the right voltages at the key test points.

It's important to note that there are a couple voltages (VS & VSCAN) that the tech bulletin instructs you to check and they will decay slowly if the TV has an issue related to the VSCAN failure that can be fixed by replacing the three 10uF caps. As a further check, I found that disconnecting one end of the flat ribbon cable between the Y-Main and the Main board will allow these voltages to remain steady because the error signal from the Y-Main board is blocked from the Main board and it does not automatically shutdown those voltages.

Now that I was reading the proper voltages at the test points, I could verify that they decayed slowly after I reconnected the flat ribbon cable (do this with the TV unplugged!). Satisfied that I was now looking at the exact VSCAN issue in this thread, I prepared to replace the caps. I chose to leave the board installed, so I placed the TV on top of a table so I could access the caps easily while sitting comfortably. In addition to positioning a strong task light on the work area, I wore a headlamp to illuminate the area I was working. (Good lighting is very important in this type of work.)

Following the advice on this forum as well as the service bulletin, I snipped off the caps while leaving the leads as long as possible. I carefully tinned each of those leads with solder without heating the leads up too much to avoid causing connectivity issues with the solder connection to the multi-layer circuit board. I then snipped off the new caps from their carrier strips so they had about a half inch on each lead. I brushed on a small bead of solder on the lower part of these leads to prepare them for the tack solder to the old cap leads.

I tack soldered the middle cap first as suggested in the bulletin. This way, I was able to bend the cap slightly to either side as I worked on the two outside caps. I kept the soldering tip on the leads only as long as needed for the solder to melt together and hold the caps in place. My work was far from pretty, but it looked like things made a solid connection which is all that matters. After carefully inspecting my work to verify nothing was shorted and there was sufficient space between the leads and other components/pads, I plugged the TV in and heard that beautiful sing-song of the powering up sequence through the speakers!

By the time I went around to the front of the TV, it was already displaying the apps that it was updating. I did a check of the test point voltages to make sure they matched the voltages on the inside label and put the TV through its paces with audio and video tests and verifying the WiFi connection to make sure it connected to my Netflix account. Everything worked!

Note that replacing the three caps with ones of the same 10uF rating, the TV is less apt to drift from the calibrated voltages on the inside label. If the voltages do not match the ones on the label, then adjustment of the voltages is required or the TV could experience video anomalies or non-optimal picture quality. The service bulletin explains how to do this.

The TV has since replaced the LG OLED in our family room in time to watch the destruction of King's Landing in Game of Thrones. The operation was a success!

So - many thanks to members of this forum for providing the info I needed to perform this repair as well as links to service bulletins and replacement parts. If my little story helps even one person fix their own TV, then it was worth the time it took me to write it.

Thank you!

Thanks for the informative post.
Could you be a bit more specific about the test to diagnose if the issue is related to the 3 caps.
If I power ON the TV and measure the VS (or VSCAN ?), what exactly do you describe as a "slow decay" (sec, min ?)
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post #443 of 444 Old 05-18-2019, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Butor20022 View Post
Thanks for the informative post.
Could you be a bit more specific about the test to diagnose if the issue is related to the 3 caps.
If I power ON the TV and measure the VS (or VSCAN ?), what exactly do you describe as a "slow decay" (sec, min ?)
The VS and VSCAN are two test points for voltage checks. They *should* remain stable, steady state voltages when the TV is working normally. When a failure is detected in the VSCAN circuitry (as I understand it), a signal is sent to the power supply to shut down those voltages. Because of the capacitive nature of the circuits, the voltage slowly drops, or decays, at that point. As you observe the voltage meter while checking these voltages, the meter will slowly indicate lower and lower voltages - approaching 0V although it would take a very long time to get there since the rate of voltage drop slows down considerably as it approaches 0. (This is just the nature of capacitive effects in circuits.)

I only monitored the voltage for a few seconds and noticed it was steadily dropping, which is all I needed to know. The voltage begins dropping immediately after trying to power ON such that I never actually read the proper voltage when I measured the test points - they were already down to about 70% of their intended voltage level and dropping quickly. After the caps were replaced, the voltage was rock steady and matched the voltage on the inside product label.

Hope that explains things better.
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post #444 of 444 Old Today, 01:33 AM
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I think you should replace the battery for your TV remote control abctay.com
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