Samsung PN64F8500AFXZA Issues with turning on - Page 16 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #451 of 472 Old 06-13-2019, 03:43 AM
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This, in USA, search in Mouser:

810-FA20X7S1H10600

and

810-FA20X7S1H106KRU6

ps
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post #452 of 472 Old 06-14-2019, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ouragan66 View Post
This, in USA, search in Mouser:

810-FA20X7S1H10600

and

810-FA20X7S1H106KRU6

ps
I can't insert links:

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Thanks a bunch, ouragan66. Got my used power supply board today, so I'm just going to order the capacitors now and replace everything at once. The link for others for the alternative capacitors is: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...RqDNdiy44VI0kV
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post #453 of 472 Old 06-14-2019, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvman View Post
Thanks a bunch, ouragan66. Got my used power supply board today, so I'm just going to order the capacitors now and replace everything at once. The link for others for the alternative capacitors is:
Not at all!
today I have disassembled my 64 ", unfortunately I don't see well,and for me cutting the capacitors and soldering in the stems the new ones is impossible.
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post #454 of 472 Old 06-14-2019, 03:20 PM
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Why can't they simply be unsoldered?
Why is the electronic card triple?
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post #455 of 472 Old 06-14-2019, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ouragan66 View Post
Not at all!
today I have disassembled my 64 ", unfortunately I don't see well,and for me cutting the capacitors and soldering in the stems the new ones is impossible.
Maybe use the strongest light you have to illuminate the area (lampshade off) or have someone hold a bright flashlight on the spot until you can complete solder.
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post #456 of 472 Old 06-14-2019, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ouragan66 View Post
Why can't they simply be unsoldered?
Why is the electronic card triple?
I believe it involves the temperature required to de-solder and risk of burning or damaging (burning) the circuit board.
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post #457 of 472 Old 06-15-2019, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by cvman View Post
Maybe use the strongest light you have to illuminate the area (lampshade off) or have someone hold a bright flashlight on the spot until you can complete solder.
I tried glasses+light+lens but I just can't see the stems to cut!
Unfortunately, the illness I have had in recent years has definitely worsened my vision.
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post #458 of 472 Old 06-15-2019, 01:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvman View Post
I believe it involves the temperature required to de-solder and risk of burning or damaging (burning) the circuit board.
I have a Weller soldering station with temperature control.
the printed circuit board has three layers, maybe the capacitor is connected to all 3 layers?
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post #459 of 472 Old 06-15-2019, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ouragan66 View Post
Not at all!
today I have disassembled my 64 ", unfortunately I don't see well,and for me cutting the capacitors and soldering in the stems the new ones is impossible.
I don't have the manual dexterity to do this soldering job, so when I fixed my 64F8500 I removed the board and took the board and capacitors to a local electronic repair guy. He did it while I waited for $50.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ouragan66 View Post
Why can't they simply be unsoldered?
Why is the electronic card triple?

It's a multi-layer board. My local guy was originally going to unsolder the caps, even when I showed him the Samsung service bulleting that told the techs to clip off the caps and tack-solder the new caps to the old wires. Then he began handling the board, and went "Ohhhhhh, this has a few layers I'd need to get the wires loose from", and then he clipped off the old caps.
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post #460 of 472 Old 06-15-2019, 10:03 AM
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I managed to cut the capacitors, unfortunately one had a very short leg ...

I think I'll combine all three of them and I will make a single weld on the longer legs on the board.
Yes I read the Samsung notes, in fact I decided to cut.













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post #461 of 472 Old 06-15-2019, 10:15 AM
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post #462 of 472 Old 06-17-2019, 12:56 PM
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Is there a systematic way to troubleshoot if the problem is from the X board or Y board ?
My TV is clicking/not turning on



-I did change all the blue caps on the Y board
-I did test the power supply (with everything unplug) and all the voltages are good (VS is slightly higher than expected).
-I did try a second main/logic board, so I know it's likely not the problem.


I'm able to get proper voltages (for VA, VS, VSCAN, VE) if I unplugg the ribbon cable from the Y-Board to the logic/main board (and the green led is now blinking fast like in a normal/healty state).
If I unplug the X board power (from the Y board), it doesnt click, but I get a slow blinking green LED indicative of a problem (dunno if it's telling me that there is a problem with the Y board or Y-SUS, or it detects that the X board is unplug)
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post #463 of 472 Old 06-18-2019, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Butor20022 View Post
Is there a systematic way to troubleshoot if the problem is from the X board or Y board ?
My TV is clicking/not turning on



-I did change all the blue caps on the Y board
-I did test the power supply (with everything unplug) and all the voltages are good (VS is slightly higher than expected).
-I did try a second main/logic board, so I know it's likely not the problem.


I'm able to get proper voltages (for VA, VS, VSCAN, VE) if I unplugg the ribbon cable from the Y-Board to the logic/main board (and the green led is now blinking fast like in a normal/healty state).
If I unplug the X board power (from the Y board), it doesnt click, but I get a slow blinking green LED indicative of a problem (dunno if it's telling me that there is a problem with the Y board or Y-SUS, or it detects that the X board is unplug)
Y-sustain board failures typically have TV turn on and sound works correctly, but no picture is shown, plus VS voltage shows properly for a second or so and then starts going down slowly to 0V.
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post #464 of 472 Old 06-19-2019, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ouragan66 View Post
I tried glasses+light+lens but I just can't see the stems to cut!
Unfortunately, the illness I have had in recent years has definitely worsened my vision.
So I got the capacitors today and began the process of attempting to bring my plasma back to life. Took the back off and replaced the power supply board. Inspected the old and did not see any visible issues nor problems with fuses. I examined the y-sus and now know what you mean when you look at the size of those three capacitors. Small indeed! I intend to cut the tops off the old capacitors right at the stem and blue film junction. Any suggestion or insights on the best approach in soldering the new capacitor to the board or old stem?
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post #465 of 472 Old 06-20-2019, 01:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvman View Post
So I got the capacitors today and began the process of attempting to bring my plasma back to life. Took the back off and replaced the power supply board. Inspected the old and did not see any visible issues nor problems with fuses. I examined the y-sus and now know what you mean when you look at the size of those three capacitors. Small indeed! I intend to cut the tops off the old capacitors right at the stem and blue film junction. Any suggestion or insights on the best approach in soldering the new capacitor to the board or old stem?
This is the info I have which I followed myself.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf samsung repair.pdf (522.4 KB, 19 views)
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post #466 of 472 Old 06-20-2019, 07:27 AM
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Question

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Originally Posted by rickardl View Post
This is the info I have which I followed myself.
Thanks, rickardl. So if I understand the repair guide, I'm clipping the old capacitors off leaving their legs, trimming the new capacitor legs to about the old leg lengths, and then soldering the new legs both to the top of board and along the old legs. Upon closer inspection and based upon some further reading, it might be better to not trim the new capacitor legs to allow more soldering space, and simply bend them back. Any suggestions or alternative thoughts?

Last edited by cvman; 06-20-2019 at 07:44 AM.
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post #467 of 472 Old 06-20-2019, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvman View Post
Thanks, rickardl. So if I understand the repair guide, I'm clipping the old capacitors off leaving their legs, trimming the new capacitor legs to about the old leg lengths, and then soldering the new legs both to the top of board and along the old legs. Upon closer inspection and based upon some further reading, it might be better to not trim the new capacitor legs to allow more soldering space, and simply bend them back. Any suggestions or alternative thoughts?
I am not that familiar with soldering, I borrowed a soldering pen from a friend but I tried to cut the old legs as far up as possible to have something to solder on.
Maybe some more experienced can chime in?
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post #468 of 472 Old 06-20-2019, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by rickardl View Post
I am not that familiar with soldering, I borrowed a soldering pen from a friend but I tried to cut the old legs as far up as possible to have something to solder on.
Maybe some more experienced can chime in?
Clipped the old capacitor legs as high as I could and trimmed the new capacitor legs length. ready to attempt solder. debating if I need to use flux.
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post #469 of 472 Old 06-21-2019, 04:40 PM
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Clipped the old capacitor legs as high as I could and trimmed the new capacitor legs length. ready to attempt solder. debating if I need to use flux.
Simply used 60/40 solder with rosin to solder in place capacitors and guess what? She's alive! Thanks for everyone's insights and assistance.
rickardl and Test Ickles like this.
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post #470 of 472 Old 06-29-2019, 10:05 AM
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thank you all for your input. Your time is much appreciated. Like some others on this thread, my issue is with the power supply (no standby LED light). After some research, I got an ESR meter to test each of the capacitors on the Power board. I found some that may have been out of range so I'm going to try to take them out, test again, and replace.

1. has anyone done this with success?
2. I guess I will go to Moser and buy similar electrolytic capacitors. Outside of the Voltage and uF specs, any other specifications I should look for in buying the replacement capacitors (they are cylindrical and brown and of various sizes/voltages).

In case anyone else is curious, I have pasted the part number, and voltage of each capacitor on the power supply board
TV: PN60F8500AFXZA
Board details: BN44-00602A,
Board Number(s): P60PF_DSM, PSPF751503A

Part # on board, Microfarad, Volts
CX 820 1000 10
CX 821 1000 10
CX 816 470 10
cX 819 220 25?
cq 815 1000 25
cx 801 4.7 50
cx 815 470 35
cx 817 470 35
cx 818 470 35
cb 814 220 25
cs 801 470 100
cs 824 470 100
cs 894 can't read 250
cs 893 can't read 250
cs 811 22 50
cb 836 47 50
cq 807 47 50
cp 387 120 500
cp 388 120 500
cp 840 120 500
cp 839 120 500
cs 847 47 50
cp 816 47 50
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post #471 of 472 Old 07-07-2019, 09:18 AM
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I've had an F8500 for around 5 or 6 years. Bought mine shortly after they were discontinued for 800.00 It's been excellent, until today.

It went black this morning after having been on less than a half hour. I have no red standby light, no sound, nothing. Left it unplugged for over an hour, still nothing.

After reading through this thread, I've come to the conclusion it's the main power board, and not the Y board.

From my understanding of these issues, if you have sound or a blinking red light, it's Y board. With no light or sound, it's usually the main board?

Would someone be so kind as to confirm?

Jody
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post #472 of 472 Old Yesterday, 05:32 PM
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single cap?!

Hi all - I hope someone is still following this thread. I bought the 3 caps from mouser last year - knowing I'd eventually get up the nerve to attempt the "fix." Today was that day. But to my surprise and dismay, after I pulled the back panel off, I realized my panel doesn't have the 3 caps at all - it just has a single cap. It looks like it says 22uf on the cap. My display has all the characteristics mentioned in this thread, so am I right to assume that single cap is my issue as well? I also find it odd that my single cap is 22uf, but everything else I've seen mentions 30uf (3 caps at 10uf each.) My main question is, does anybody know the exact replacement (single cap) fix from mouser (a link?) I'm no electrician, so all this 22uf, 30uf stuff, is way out of my league. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
BK

Edit: for reference, my board looks just like the one in post #63 in this thread.

Last edited by BK24; Yesterday at 07:23 PM.
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