Samsung PN64F8500AFXZA Issues with turning on - Page 8 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #211 of 469 Old 01-19-2017, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post
I brute forced the board to find that it did have some scheme to more easily remove it. Did seem that I was on the border of breaking it. Don't remember exactly what it was. Might ask on the specific thread.

I used wire cutters to remove the capacitors and then had my wife tugging on the lead on one side while I applied the soldering iron on the other side. Maybe you want me to send the wife over to help? You're less than 3 hrs away. lol
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if you will explain how to remove the board we will have the full work instruction for everyone will arrive to this thread... i may write a summary...
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post #212 of 469 Old 01-19-2017, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miamichillin99 View Post
Thank you JimP, Kelv and talb. I have removed the back cover while the upright and found the infamous caps. Is there any test I can perform prior to starting the removal of these caps to make sure this is indeed the issue? Also let me describe the symptoms I am experiencing. I think I am just starting to have the issues described in this thread. At the moment the TV works 99% of the time. But if the TV has been on, and most likely for a few hours, and I turn it off and then immediately on again, it does not turn on. It has only happened to me a few times so far. When it does not turn on, the red light on the panel blinks about 14 times. First blinks are slow and then the last blinks are fast. I have not tested if audio works when this happens since I get my audio from my stereo.

Attached is a picture of the infamous caps. They look fine to me!
That's what mine was doing too. It would come back on if I turned the power strip off and while holding the power button down on the remote, flip the power strip back on.
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post #213 of 469 Old 01-19-2017, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talb View Post
@JimP
if you will explain how to remove the board we will have the full work instruction for everyone will arrive to this thread... i may write a summary...
I didn't do it the right way and don't really know what the right way would have been. I'd be concerned that someone would break something if they took the same approach.

I'm not the only one who removed their y board. Maybe someone else can say what the correct way is.
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post #214 of 469 Old 01-19-2017, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by JimP View Post
I didn't do it the right way and don't really know what the right way would have been. I'd be concerned that someone would break something if they took the same approach.

I'm not the only one who removed their y board. Maybe someone else can say what the correct way is.
understood. thanks.

so if anyone knows, please describe. thanks
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post #215 of 469 Old 01-19-2017, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talb View Post
2 questions:
1. is it possible to turn off the TV immediately or do you have to wait about 30 seconds? in my case I have to wait about 30 seconds (the light become fixed red, not blinking)
2. is it possible to hear (I mean the caracteristic sound of the TV to advise the user you are increasing/decreasing the volume) you are increasing/decreasing the volume (with the remote) immediately or do you have to wait 20 seconds? in my case I have to wait about 20 seconds

let me check the blinking and i will tell you.

last but not least:
to check from an electrical standpoint, please follow the instruction in the Samsung Notes I published. I did and I had confirmation.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...mE5RDVXa0RJejg
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...mE5RDVXa0RJejg
I have only noticed a problem turning off the tv once and it wasn't bad. Only took 2-3 presses of the power button. I haven't tried the volume but I try and will let you know.

Also thanks so much for the Samsung documents. I tested both points and they seem good. I got 209 from svc_vs at boot up. It dropped for a second to 0 during the boot up sequence but quickly recovered and remained at 209. From the vscan I get -195.1 and it remained constant. I tested this while the TV was working. Should I wait for it to fail again and then test it? Also the samsung instructions state to test only during start up. How long does start up take? Since I cant see the tv while I'm behind it taking measurements, how do you know when start up is done?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post
That's what mine was doing too. It would come back on if I turned the power strip off and while holding the power button down on the remote, flip the power strip back on.
That's a nice trick. I will have to give it a shot when it fails on me again. Like I said at the moment it's very rare for it to fail. How did you reach the remote around to the front of the TV while playing with the power strip? I wonder if this trick would work with the power button on the back of the tv as well.

Last edited by miamichillin99; 01-19-2017 at 03:52 PM.
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post #216 of 469 Old 01-19-2017, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miamichillin99 View Post
I have only noticed a problem turning off the tv once and it wasn't bad. Only took 2-3 presses of the power button. I haven't tried the volume but I try and will let you know.

Also thanks so much for the Samsung documents. I tested both points and they seem good. I got 209 from svc_vs at boot up. It dropped for a second to 0 during the boot up sequence but quickly recovered and remained at 209. From the vscan I get -195.1 and it remained constant. I tested this while the TV was working. Should I wait for it to fail again and then test it? Also the samsung instructions state to test only during start up. How long does start up take? Since I cant see the tv while I'm behind it taking measurements, how do you know when start up is done?
yes, to be tested the behaviour when TV fails. consider startup the first 1-3 seconds.
you will see:
-VS will go directly to about 210 and then slightly decrease (in absolute value);
-VSCAN will go directly to 0 and will remain.

pay attention to hazard.
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post #217 of 469 Old 01-20-2017, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by talb View Post
yes, to be tested the behaviour when TV fails. consider startup the first 1-3 seconds.
you will see:
-VS will go directly to about 210 and then slightly decrease (in absolute value);
-VSCAN will go directly to 0 and will remain.

pay attention to hazard.
I was able to perform this test when the TV failed. The VS indeed decreased from 210 but the strange thing is so did VSCAN. I didn't wait for it to drop to 0, but I stopped measuring at -40 so it was almost there. I feel very confident even though it didn't show a VSCAN of 0 that it's the same caps issue. Also I tried your test of adjusting the volume to listen for the volume "clicks" and there was audio when the video failed.

talb, I see you are having issues removing the Y Board. Why not just do it with the board in place? I think that's what I'm going to do. If you cut the caps off and solder the new one to the leads of the old ones I think it can be done with the Board connected. What do you think?

Also check out this attachment. One of my caps has glue on the leads. What should I do?
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post #218 of 469 Old 01-21-2017, 04:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miamichillin99 View Post
I was able to perform this test when the TV failed. The VS indeed decreased from 210 but the strange thing is so did VSCAN. I didn't wait for it to drop to 0, but I stopped measuring at -40 so it was almost there. I feel very confident even though it didn't show a VSCAN of 0 that it's the same caps issue. Also I tried your test of adjusting the volume to listen for the volume "clicks" and there was audio when the video failed.

talb, I see you are having issues removing the Y Board. Why not just do it with the board in place? I think that's what I'm going to do. If you cut the caps off and solder the new one to the leads of the old ones I think it can be done with the Board connected. What do you think?

Also check out this attachment. One of my caps has glue on the leads. What should I do?
:-) probably the little behaviour difference on VSCAN is due to the fact your caps are yet good enough...my TV was in your situation 8 months ago.

yes, i will do in the way you are suggesting. without removing Y-board. and I was asking in case not able to solder in a low space.
I already have a 33 microfarad electrolytic cap and on tuesday the 3 new 10 microfarad caps will arrive from Mouser.
I have 2 options:
1. cut the caps off and install the new electrolytic one on the proper place (near the three old)
2. cut the caps off and solder the 3 new ones to the leads of the old ones

in case 1 probably it's mandatory to tune VA, VS, VSCAN, VE due to the fact 33 is different from 30(=10+10+10)

i will decide on Tue depending on the difficulty and let you know the result... :-)

I see the glue. Probably cut the caps off and clean the glue on the leads is enough. Or cut the caps off and install the electrolytic...good luck
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post #219 of 469 Old 01-23-2017, 02:29 AM
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hi guys,

i'm ready to solder the caps, but not able with the y-board mounted on the TV. I need to remove.

I'm having big issue to remove the board due to the 6 connectors on the left.
Do i have to pull to right or do i have to rotate the board?
My fear is to break the connectors.
Can anyone help me ?
Thanks
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post #220 of 469 Old 01-24-2017, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talb View Post
hi guys,

i'm ready to solder the caps, but not able with the y-board mounted on the TV. I need to remove.

I'm having big issue to remove the board due to the 6 connectors on the left.
Do i have to pull to right or do i have to rotate the board?
My fear is to break the connectors.
Can anyone help me ?
Thanks
I will probably tackle mine over the weekend. I was planning to do the following:
1. cut off old caps leaving as much of the leads as possible.
2. cut the leads off the new caps leaving very short leads to solder to the existing leads of the old caps left behind on the Y board.
3. solder the tip of the iron with enough solder to transfer some to the leads of the new caps.
4. add flux to one lead of a new cap. Then apply the solder from the iron to that lead.
5. repeat steps 3 and 4 with the other lead of the new cap.
6. apply flux to the leads left behind on the Y board after removing the old caps.
7. hold the lead of the new cap together with the leads on the board and apply heat from the iron. it should melt the solder on the lead from the new cap and the flux on the lead from the old cap and join the leads.
8. repeat step 7 for the other lead of the new cap.
9. repeat 3-8 for the other 2 caps.

I think it will work. The end result will be the new caps joined at the leads with the leads of the old caps. Make sure that the height of the newly installed cap is similar to what the old caps was. You don't want the caps touching the back of the tv when you reinstall the cover.
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post #221 of 469 Old 01-24-2017, 01:22 PM
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Another PS64F8500 revived!!

just done!! many thanks to all the participants of the thread!!!
a 4.000 eur TV revived!!
thanks a lot. many thanks.

My warm suggestions:

1. do not remove the board. solder the caps directly on the legs of the old caps without removing the board;

2. both solutions are working:
-> 2.a: one 33 microfarad cap (tested and working using the proper area dedicated to the electrolytic cap or using a couple of legs of the old caps)
-> 2.b: three 10 microfarad caps (tested and working using the 3 couples of legs of the old caps)
I preferred the three 10 uF caps solution because equal to 30uF total capacity needed;

3. after caps mounting, remember to tune the 4 voltages (first Vs and Va on the supply board, then Vsc and Ve) especially if you adopted the solution 2.a. After first tuning round, check again the 4 voltages.

For miamichellin, solder directly touching the base of the board using the full lenght of the legs of the new caps and the old ones. Leave long the legs of the new ones to have more space. Anyway you may bend the legs of new caps after soldering. It's easy to solder, don't be worried (i did easily many times for my trials).

Thanks again guys. Again follow recommendation 1. . Its' mandatory. Too big the risk to break the board. Currently i didn't understand how to remove the board due to the 6 fu*king plugs on the left.

If you will come, you will be my guest on seasides of south of Italy!!
thanks again my friends
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Last edited by talb; 12-02-2018 at 08:18 AM.
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post #222 of 469 Old 01-25-2017, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talb View Post
just done!! many thanks to all the participants of the thread!!!
a 4.000 eur TV revived!!
thanks a lot. many thanks.

My warm suggestions:

1. do not remove the board. solder the caps directly on the legs of the old caps without removing the board;

2. both solutions are working:
-> 2.a: one 33 microfarad cap (tested and working using the proper area dedicated to the electrolytic cap or using a couple of legs of the old caps)
-> 2.b: three 10 microfarad caps (tested and working using the 3 couples of legs of the old caps)
I preferred the three 10 uF caps solution because equal to 30uF total capacity needed;

3. after caps mounting, remember to tune the 4 voltages (first Vs and Va on the supply board, then Vsc and Ve) especially if you adopted the solution 2.a. After first tuning round, check again the 4 voltages.

For miamichellin, solder directly touching the base of the board using the full lenght of the legs of the new caps and the old ones. Leave long the legs of the new ones to have more space. Anyway you may bend the legs of new caps after soldering. It's easy to solder, don't be worried (i did easily many times for my trials).

Thanks again guys. Again follow reccomendation 1. . Its' mandatory. Too big the risk to break the board. Currently i didn't understand how to remove the board due to the 6 fu*king plugs on the left.

If you will come, you will be my guest on seasides of south of Italy!!
thanks again my friends
Congrats talb. I cant wait to do it this weekend and I will solder directly to the pad instead of the leg as you suggested. Did you do this with the tv flat or while upright on the stand?
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post #223 of 469 Old 01-25-2017, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by miamichillin99 View Post
Congrats talb. I cant wait to do it this weekend and I will solder directly to the pad instead of the leg as you suggested. Did you do this with the tv flat or while upright on the stand?
i forgot to say: TV upright on the stand, me seated on the chair :-) my fear was to break the panel if flat.

to the pads works too: during my trials for the electrolytic cap I soldered to the pad.

let us konw :-)
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post #224 of 469 Old 01-27-2017, 06:52 PM
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Thank you everyone for this fabulous thread, I was resigned to buying a new TV and now am excited to get these capacitors changed. I have found a local guy who will come to the house and replace the capacitors for me!! Will report back in a couple of weeks when I am back home with hopefully good news!
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post #225 of 469 Old 01-28-2017, 07:46 AM
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Thank you everyone for this fabulous thread, I was resigned to buying a new TV and now am excited to get these capacitors changed. I have found a local guy who will come to the house and replace the capacitors for me!! Will report back in a couple of weeks when I am back home with hopefully good news!

Many many many many many many many thanks to CostaM and esegan who were the first guys to identify the solution! Many many many many many thanks to all the others who contributed with their confirmations/suggestions.
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post #226 of 469 Old 01-28-2017, 11:34 AM
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Fixed my almost dead PN64F8500!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by talb View Post
Many many many many many many many thanks to CostaM and esegan who were the first guys to identify the solution! Many many many many many thanks to all the others who contributed with their confirmations/suggestions.
First I want to thank everyone that helped and contributed in this amazing thread. As talb mentioned, thank you to CostaM for informing the group that the issue was small caps on the Y board. Then to esegan for figuring out which caps were the problem. Also I want to thank Mikehawkes for linking the parts over at mouser.com, to 939 for showing the voltage adjustment locations and last but not least, to talb for posting the samsung docs and for thoroughly explaining his repair and helping me complete mine.

I ran my TV for 12 hours straight, followed by a turn off and on and it worked perfectly.
Attached you will find some pictures of my repair. First is a picture of the old caps removed. Then a picture of the new caps uninstalled but with solder already applied to the legs. Lastly I took a few pictures of the board with the caps installed. They are not pretty or perfectly aligned or straight but they do work.

Some additional comments I would like to add to my instructions above. I did solder the new caps to the legs of the old caps. So when you cut off the old caps leave as much leg as possible. I left one with a small leg by accident and it was very difficult to solder the new cap. I bought this wire cutter which has a fine tip perfect for this job:

For the soldering iron I would recommend a very fine tip. I used this one:


Lastly I recommend that after you install each cap, that you check the resistance between the points on C5207 and the top of the leg of your newly installed cap. The resistance should read 0 ohms. This means you made a good solder joint. Check both legs against both points on C5207.

The rest of the instruction I posted above still apply. I did the job as talb suggested, with the TV upright on it's stand and the Y Board still installed on the TV. I pulled up a chair to the back of the TV, got a magnifying lamp light and got and did the repair. Regarding the white glue that was smeared on one of the old caps I cut it off with an exacto knife, but be very careful since you can easily cut a trace or a component off the board.
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post #227 of 469 Old 01-29-2017, 02:54 AM
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Originally Posted by miamichillin99 View Post
First I want to thank everyone that helped and contributed in this amazing thread. As talb mentioned, thank you to CostaM for informing the group that the issue was small caps on the Y board. Then to esegan for figuring out which caps were the problem. Also I want to thank Mikehawkes for linking the parts over at mouser.com, to 939 for showing the voltage adjustment locations and last but not least, to talb for posting the samsung docs and for thoroughly explaining his repair and helping me complete mine.

I ran my TV for 12 hours straight, followed by a turn off and on and it worked perfectly.
Attached you will find some pictures of my repair. First is a picture of the old caps removed. Then a picture of the new caps uninstalled but with solder already applied to the legs. Lastly I took a few pictures of the board with the caps installed. They are not pretty or perfectly aligned or straight but they do work.

Some additional comments I would like to add to my instructions above. I did solder the new caps to the legs of the old caps. So when you cut off the old caps leave as much leg as possible. I left one with a small leg by accident and it was very difficult to solder the new cap. I bought this wire cutter which has a fine tip perfect for this job:

For the soldering iron I would recommend a very fine tip. I used this one:


Lastly I recommend that after you install each cap, that you check the resistance between the points on C5207 and the top of the leg of your newly installed cap. The resistance should read 0 ohms. This means you made a good solder joint. Check both legs against both points on C5207.

The rest of the instruction I posted above still apply. I did the job as talb suggested, with the TV upright on it's stand and the Y Board still installed on the TV. I pulled up a chair to the back of the TV, got a magnifying lamp light and got and did the repair. Regarding the white glue that was smeared on one of the old caps I cut it off with an exacto knife, but be very careful since you can easily cut a trace or a component off the board.
great, miamichillin!
congrats and thanks to publish your reccomendation and mention the other great contributors of the thread!
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post #228 of 469 Old 01-29-2017, 05:50 AM
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@miamichillin99

Can you post links to the capacitors again? Thanks.

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post #229 of 469 Old 01-29-2017, 07:03 AM
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post #230 of 469 Old 01-29-2017, 12:05 PM
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Power Board or Y-Board Capacitors?

Thank you to the many individuals who have given me hope that my Samsung PN64F8500AF may be able to be repaired.


I'm not very tech savvy, so I wanted to ask you experts a basic questions before I attempt to have my television repaired.


If I have no red light at the lower-left on my set at the moment, is there any way to know whether it is the power board or the Y-board capacitors that need to be replaced?


Secondly, does anyone have a suggestion of someone I could pay to assist me with this in the Redondo Beach region of Los Angeles. I'd prefer not to attempt this myself


Thanks again to all,
John.
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post #231 of 469 Old 01-29-2017, 12:33 PM
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Red light generally means power supply is OK.

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post #232 of 469 Old 01-29-2017, 04:04 PM
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So is the consensus on earlier production models there were poor quality capacitors installed or is this a heat related failure soon to happen on all TVs?

Video: Samsung PN50C550 & PN64F8500
Audio: Infinity Kappa 8.1's powered by a Yamaha HTR-5590
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post #233 of 469 Old 01-29-2017, 08:47 PM
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So is the consensus on earlier production models there were poor quality capacitors installed or is this a heat related failure soon to happen on all TVs?

I have not noticed a consensus myself, although I would be very interested for people who have had this failure to post the manufacture dates of their units.


It has been noted that the three little capacitors that fail are located right next to a transformer that gets quite hot.
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post #234 of 469 Old 01-29-2017, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jpb19589 View Post
Thank you to the many individuals who have given me hope that my Samsung PN64F8500AF may be able to be repaired.


I'm not very tech savvy, so I wanted to ask you experts a basic questions before I attempt to have my television repaired.


If I have no red light at the lower-left on my set at the moment, is there any way to know whether it is the power board or the Y-board capacitors that need to be replaced?


Secondly, does anyone have a suggestion of someone I could pay to assist me with this in the Redondo Beach region of Los Angeles. I'd prefer not to attempt this myself


Thanks again to all,
John.
hi John,

if your plasma F8500 is affected by the issue related to 3 capacitors on Y-sus board you shall have a blinking red light.
Moreover there is a voltage test that you could do (see Samsung service notes I posted) to be sure the issue is related to 3 capacitors on Y-sus board.
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post #235 of 469 Old 02-09-2017, 08:23 PM
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No Red Light

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Originally Posted by talb View Post
hi John,

if your plasma F8500 is affected by the issue related to 3 capacitors on Y-sus board you shall have a blinking red light.
Moreover there is a voltage test that you could do (see Samsung service notes I posted) to be sure the issue is related to 3 capacitors on Y-sus board.

Hello Talb,

I realize this question has been asked, but unfortunately I am still confused. Our F8500 is 3 years old, and just this week it started to turn off by itself. We couldn't turn it back on, we had to wait for it to turn itself on. Now it will not turn on at all, and we have no red light in the left corner. This is where I get confused. Is it not fixable, as there are no parts for it?
Thank you.
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post #236 of 469 Old 02-10-2017, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Mlee99 View Post
Hello Talb,

I realize this question has been asked, but unfortunately I am still confused. Our F8500 is 3 years old, and just this week it started to turn off by itself. We couldn't turn it back on, we had to wait for it to turn itself on. Now it will not turn on at all, and we have no red light in the left corner. This is where I get confused. Is it not fixable, as there are no parts for it?
Thank you.
Mlee99,

The only way to be certain is to follow the Samsung checkpoints in the document talb mentioned and attached in his previous post. Also this is a pretty small thread, I recommend that you read all the posts on the 8 pages. You will learn a lot on how to diagnose and fix the 3 capacitor Y board problem.
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PN51F8500 Dead - Samsung says has authorized "exchange"

Hi...I have a 51f8500 that is almost 4 years old....a couple weeks ago it turned itself off...dead...no red led at all...nada. Samsung arranged local repair but I spoke to them yesterday and they now say TV cannot be repaired...I assume this is because it likely is the power board and from reading here that part is no longer available. However, they said my case has been escalated and I will get a call from Samsung in about 11-14 days to discuss an exchange or a replacement...the woman said I was authorized for that. This surprised me...out of warranty and all?

So my question is...has anyone had Samsung offer this...and what do you think they will offer to replace with????? The F8500 is a high end plasma...not made anymore and really only the current OLEDs truly compare....do you think they are likely to offer a lower end LED...something in the $500 range and think that is fair...I mean, of course, might as well take what they offer but certainly doesn't replace this f8500? Thoughts? thanks
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Hi...I have a 51f8500 that is almost 4 years old....a couple weeks ago it turned itself off...dead...no red led at all...nada. Samsung arranged local repair but I spoke to them yesterday and they now say TV cannot be repaired...I assume this is because it likely is the power board and from reading here that part is no longer available. However, they said my case has been escalated and I will get a call from Samsung in about 11-14 days to discuss an exchange or a replacement...the woman said I was authorized for that. This surprised me...out of warranty and all?

So my question is...has anyone had Samsung offer this...and what do you think they will offer to replace with????? The F8500 is a high end plasma...not made anymore and really only the current OLEDs truly compare....do you think they are likely to offer a lower end LED...something in the $500 range and think that is fair...I mean, of course, might as well take what they offer but certainly doesn't replace this f8500? Thoughts? thanks
This was for an "in home" diagnostic check or the shop actually took possession and carried it to their shop? I've an extended warranty through a 3d party but I find this an interesting Samsung comment.

They're certainly struggling for "praise of product" for all so maybe it's a new corporate approach. They had, knew about a "fix" for the earlier product and denied it for years I believe. I visited a retailer here recently that is exclusively Samsung for displays and I can't say they were all smiles I mentioned the F8500 of mine and they certainly wanted to avoid a conversation.

My 64" seems to have the issue but it's "on the wall" and I certainly am not looking forward to the taking it down. Mine gets a considerable rest between "power ups" so unless I do something foolish maybe I'm not rushed. I haven't tried to confirm a repeated problem and I'd hate to have a repair guy appear and NOT be able to replicate the issue.

I'm quite "RURAL" and if I call Samsung (I did on my 58") they struggle to come up with a provider, the 3d party though I'm sure just calls JOE/JOHN/JIM or maybe TOM!!

POST BACK WHAT YOU HEAR FROM SAMSUNG!!!
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This was for an "in home" diagnostic check or the shop actually took possession and carried it to their shop? I've an extended warranty through a 3d party but I find this an interesting Samsung comment.

They're certainly struggling for "praise of product" for all so maybe it's a new corporate approach. They had, knew about a "fix" for the earlier product and denied it for years I believe. I visited a retailer here recently that is exclusively Samsung for displays and I can't say they were all smiles I mentioned the F8500 of mine and they certainly wanted to avoid a conversation.

My 64" seems to have the issue but it's "on the wall" and I certainly am not looking forward to the taking it down. Mine gets a considerable rest between "power ups" so unless I do something foolish maybe I'm not rushed. I haven't tried to confirm a repeated problem and I'd hate to have a repair guy appear and NOT be able to replicate the issue.

I'm quite "RURAL" and if I call Samsung (I did on my 58") they struggle to come up with a provider, the 3d party though I'm sure just calls JOE/JOHN/JIM or maybe TOM!!

POST BACK WHAT YOU HEAR FROM SAMSUNG!!!
So to clarify...the TV is at home, on stand, not wall mount. I have not had an actual service person come to my home. I have been speaking directly with Samsung support...they did schedule a home service, but that got cancelled by Samsung as they acknowledged the TV cannot be repaired. They mentioned that a new ticket number had been generated and that I would get a call from Samsung escalation department itself to discuss an exchange. So I have no idea what they will offer..this will be interesting....ugggg...easier to go out and by new LG OLED but obviously expensive and stupid not to wait and try and negotiate and take whatever I end up with.
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post #240 of 469 Old 02-12-2017, 06:51 AM
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Subscribing to this, as I am interested in what Samsung actually does. Went on Vacation. Unplugged my 60" F8500 as I do every time we leave the house for a substantial amount of time (South Florida lightning strikes and all). Came home and plugged everything back in and now get nothing. No red light, no manual turn on in back, clear line of sight for both Logitech remote and remote that came with TV.

Very frustrated. I have ZERO electronics experience, so doing the work mentioned in this thread isnt going to happen.
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