Ask the Editors: Should I Fix or Replace My Pioneer Kuro? - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 62 Old 03-12-2018, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by genesplitter View Post
That sounds like a fun and cheap learning exercise, and a fairly good chance of getting a nice ego boost if it works out. Why wouldn't anybody give it a try, especially if you could do this with your kids instead of playing xbox.
A bit of advice - take pictures as you progress through the disassembly process.

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post #32 of 62 Old 03-12-2018, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Yog View Post
Have it repaired. BTW 151 is not the monitor its a TV with sound.

I am still not sold to 4K yet when I compare it to my calibrated Elite Signature 141FD. I was just about to pull the trigger on Panasonic OLED TC-65EZ1000C but thought I should wait for another few years and see what's the best TV available in the future (~5 years, maybe more). Not to mention, there still a lack of 4K content compared to 1080p. Having said all that, if Pioneer comes back to TV business and release something, I will be the first in line to get it.
The perk of being a Kuro owner is having a set that's "good enough" to be able to sit back and wait for the right moment to buy an OLED.

Personally, I'm waiting for OLED tech to mature more and lower prices.
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post #33 of 62 Old 03-13-2018, 04:45 PM
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I still waiting for a tech that performs like plasma or OLED and doesn't suffer from burn-in. Burn-in on high priced displays shouldn't be happening in 2018.

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post #34 of 62 Old 03-13-2018, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
A bit of advice - take pictures as you progress through the disassembly process.
Any other advice or suggestions? I'm about to send my main board to kcrownie. What's the best way to package it?
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post #35 of 62 Old 03-13-2018, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Cepillin View Post
Any other advice or suggestions? I'm about to send my main board to kcrownie. What's the best way to package it?
I used bubble wrap, anti static bags and air pillows. If you can't get a hold of anti static bags, you can wrap each board in anti static bubble wrap, then wrap in regular bubble wrap.

Take as many pictures as possible, be gentle when unplugging connectors and don't worry if you end up with extra screws or lose a few lol.

After shipping out your boards, it will take around a week to get them back from kcrownie.

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post #36 of 62 Old 03-13-2018, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Toknow****a View Post
I still waiting for a tech that performs like plasma or OLED and doesn't suffer from burn-in. Burn-in on high priced displays shouldn't be happening in 2018.
Please stop stop this burn in crap. It's a non issue and I'm tired of seeing people ramp it up. ok rant over thanks
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post #37 of 62 Old 03-14-2018, 10:46 AM
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Funny how this thread is all over the place, the original poster just wanted to know if it was worth fixing and where best to get it done. He has his answers and just last needed to know how to pack it. I once was a 151 owner who had no regrets buying it, enjoying it and selling it. I still enjoying reading about it, brings back memories. The resale on these sets are still decent and they are selling; so at $100 to send it off for fixing and return cost theres no reason not to as long as that's the only issue at hand. Case closed

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post #38 of 62 Old 03-14-2018, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Toknow****a View Post
I still waiting for a tech that performs like plasma or OLED and doesn't suffer from burn-in. Burn-in on high priced displays shouldn't be happening in 2018.
Nonsense. Burn-in is a near myth. The user would have to leave the TV continuously on a static image or on a channel with a ticker-tape band on the screen (such as ESPN or Fox News) day in and day out. And did i mention continuously? Pioneer KURO even includes a feature to shift the entire image a couple of pixels this way and that which eliminates almost every display condition that may cause image retention. We have several friends who've been watching Panasonic and Pioneer plasmas for a good many years, and no one has ever noticed any sign of image retention.
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post #39 of 62 Old 03-14-2018, 12:35 PM
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Instead of taking the soldering iron to it, I'd go one of two routes- OLED or a used plasma. Prices on used plasmas have really fallen and you could get something excellent like a VT/ZT60 or Samsung F8500 for cheaply... or get a brand new OLED and enjoy having a warranty if something goes wrong.

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Originally Posted by kfh227 View Post
I hate to say it but I have $2000 Sony from about 4 years ago. I could get a comparable or better model today for half that (and probably less).


So, I have XBR-850B. It is a 3D and 4K capable TV without HDR. When I bought it, rumors stated that it could be made to be HDR with a firmware patch that never came. I think the 900B did get a patch for HDR.


Point is, the last 5 years have brought about a lot of improvements. When an 8 year old TV dies, just get rid of it.
LCDs have not aged the same as plasmas. A Pioneer 151FD like the one in the article will handily beat any LCD on the market today, including the latest and greatest, in terms of black level performance, motion, and uniformity, despite being 9 years old. Older LCDs on the other hand are pretty much useless at this point.
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post #40 of 62 Old 03-14-2018, 02:26 PM
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Nonsense. Burn-in is a near myth. The user would have to leave the TV continuously on a static image or on a channel with a ticker-tape band on the screen (such as ESPN or Fox News) day in and day out. And did i mention continuously? Pioneer KURO even includes a feature to shift the entire image a couple of pixels this way and that which eliminates almost every display condition that may cause image retention. We have several friends who've been watching Panasonic and Pioneer plasmas for a good many years, and no one has ever noticed any sign of image retention.
The Panasonic ST, VT and ZT60 are the exceptions. They are extremely sensitive to burn in from my experience.

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post #41 of 62 Old 03-14-2018, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by rcapprotti View Post
It's still amazing nine years later we're still having a discussion about the pioneer Kuro. And the only reason that would happen is because it truly was a great TV. I have 2/8 generation elites one for main viewing and one in the bedroom and they still have great pictures and still work perfect each both have an HDMI port out but who cares
I still miss my 500M.

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post #42 of 62 Old 12-21-2019, 11:44 PM
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[quote=SnellTHX;55834576]
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Originally Posted by hsinnott View Post


I honestly don't think the difference is THAT huge. I remember by 2008 I was utterly disgusted by DVD quality and refused to watch a movie that wasn't Blu-ray 1080p. The difference was night and day.


but 4K HDR vs 1080p? Obviously the former is better, but the latter still looks really, really good on an OLED or a great plasma like the the 9th generation Kuro.
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Yes, our Pioneer KURO is a great room heater. This is very acceptable in the Pacific Northwest for about 10 months of the year, ha-ha. And, yes, it draws a fair bit of power to display that excellent color, deep blacks, fine detail, off-axis viewing (the picture doesn't fade even if you sit way off to the side), and no motion artifacts. No TV is perfect.
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Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
The Panasonic ST, VT and ZT60 are the exceptions. They are extremely sensitive to burn in from my experience.
Great discussion as I move from 32” Toshiba CRT (okay lol if you please) to a 60” Pioneer or Panasonic plasma or Sony’s 2020 65” OLED.

As I don’t subscribe to any streaming or TV service DVDs, BDs and Youtube videos are my only video source material. I only buy and try borrow BD versions of movies. But as many favorite TV shows are on DVDs, would even the Sony OLED’s high quality upscaling make DVDs look worse than on a 1080p Kuro?

TVs doubling as space heaters would also be nice during NY winters but IF your Kuro plasma was in room with subdued light like mine for movies could you turn down the brightness and thereby the power draw and generate a lot less heat?

Unless I can find a top 60” Pioneer or Panasonic plasma in great condition new ones seem likely to cost well over $3.5K, and 50” plasmas may be look too small compared to 55” OLEDs.

The Kuro KRP-600M, which I read may have been among the best the last of the Kuros built, has a two low power modes. Any other Kuro models with even lower power modes?

And when considering burn-in risks, are there any Kuro models which are especially less likely to suffer burn-in when used as pc monitors? As stationary images during online shopping and word processing sessions are more likely to cause burn-in, it’s odd that some reviewers would add pc monitor use among their ratings criteria https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/sony/a9g-oled

And which of the ~$3500 Panasonic models would be best for me?

Last edited by ekayo; 12-21-2019 at 11:57 PM.
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post #43 of 62 Old 12-22-2019, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ekayo View Post
Great discussion as I move from 32” Toshiba CRT (okay lol if you please) to a 60” Pioneer or Panasonic plasma or Sony’s 2020 65” OLED.

Unless I can find a top 60” Pioneer or Panasonic plasma in great condition new ones seem likely to cost well over $3.5K, and 50” plasmas may be look too small compared to 55” OLEDs.

The Kuro KRP-600M, which I read may have been among the best the last of the Kuros built, has a two low power modes. Any other Kuro models with even lower power modes?

And when considering burn-in risks, are there any Kuro models which are especially less likely to suffer burn-in when used as pc monitors? As stationary images during online shopping and word processing sessions are more likely to cause burn-in, it’s odd that some reviewers would add pc monitor use among their ratings criteria https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/sony/a9g-oled

And which of the ~$3500 Panasonic models would be best for me?
In regards to the Panasonic - the very last Panasonic Plasmas were built in Dec 2013 (ST60/VT60/ZT60 models) so it's not likely you'll find any that are actually brand new (unless someone has stored some sealed units away for the past 6 years). And still, i wouldn't spend anywhere near that much for it if you find one. Used 60" and 65" VT60 and ZT60 models seem to sell in the $600 - $900 range.

And these 60 series models were sometimes reported to be prone to IR and even Burn-In when abused.

The 9G Pioneers weren't prone to IR or Burn In IIRC. Used ones also go for about the same price as the 60 series Panasonic Plasmas too.


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post #44 of 62 Old 12-22-2019, 02:10 PM
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[quote=ekayo;58989490]
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Originally Posted by SnellTHX View Post

TVs doubling as space heaters would also be nice during NY winters but IF your Kuro plasma was in room with subdued light like mine for movies could you turn down the brightness and thereby the power draw and generate a lot less heat?

Pioneer KURO has two options under Setup/Option/HDMI input: PC or Video. Under Video there are several picture pre-sets. The Movie pre-set is excellent for low light rooms and generates less heat than all the other picture pre-sets. It's also easy on the eyes, and I often use it with our PC for computer tasks. In fact, I'm happy to use the Movie pre-set in low light for everything except gaming (use Game pre-set) and watching live sports on TV (use Sport pre-set).

The Kuro KRP-600M, which I read may have been among the best the last of the Kuros built, has a two low power modes. Any other Kuro models with even lower power modes?

How do you go lower than Low?

And when considering burn-in risks, are there any Kuro models which are especially less likely to suffer burn-in when used as pc monitors? As stationary images during online shopping and word processing sessions are more likely to cause burn-in, it’s odd that some reviewers would add pc monitor use among their ratings criteria https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/sony/a9g-oled

We use our KURO frequently for online shopping, Word, and other stuff where an image may stay on the screen for several minutes unchanged. We've never experienced any burn-in. We have the PDP-5020FD model. Although the "Pro" models have elaborate tweaking options, we have only made very slight adjustments to the Movie pre-set and PC/HDMI input in order to get excellent results when using Blu-ray test discs and online graph setup pages for the PC input. We never leave any static image of any kind on the screen and walk away. We always use the simple PICTURE OFF setting and leave the set powered on if we're coming back in a little while.

And which of the ~$3500 Panasonic models would be best for me?
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post #45 of 62 Old 12-23-2019, 12:41 PM
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Imho if you've got a screen smaller than 65" upgrade. I find anything smaller than that honestly unlivable for a living room tv these days. My bedroom tv is 65" and I still think we had the room and should have went 75.

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Originally Posted by Toknow****a View Post
I still waiting for a tech that performs like plasma or OLED and doesn't suffer from burn-in. Burn-in on high priced displays shouldn't be happening in 2018.
I've owned plenty of plasma and never had a issue. I play games with huds for hours. I was a addicted to PSU and played 12 hours a day for 2 months on a plasma with no burn in so I highly question how people get burn in or what exactly triggers it.

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Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
The Panasonic ST, VT and ZT60 are the exceptions. They are extremely sensitive to burn in from my experience.
I dont agree. I've gotw zt60 and its a huge image retention beast but never burn in. I get retention within minutes and then I switch to another picture and its gone. I've never seen any imagine left over once the tv is turned off and then brought back on.

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post #46 of 62 Old 12-23-2019, 06:59 PM
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[quote=ekayo;58989490]
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Originally Posted by SnellTHX View Post





And when considering burn-in risks, are there any Kuro models which are especially less likely to suffer burn-in when used as pc monitors? As stationary images during online shopping and word processing sessions are more likely to cause burn-in, it’s odd that some reviewers would add pc monitor use among their ratings criteria https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/sony/a9g-oled
Kuro's are less susceptible to burn it. Think I read it somewhere in here. Never had a hint of image retention on KRP-600m. Still looking for a KRP 500M to use as a computer monitor. Using a Panasonic 50GT30 currently. No issues. Burn in is overrated.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-p...-research.html

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post #47 of 62 Old 12-24-2019, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post
In regards to the Panasonic - the very last Panasonic Plasmas were built in Dec 2013 (ST60/VT60/ZT60 models) so it's not likely you'll find any that are actually brand new (unless someone has stored some sealed units away for the past 6 years). And still, i wouldn't spend anywhere near that much for it if you find one. Used 60" and 65" VT60 and ZT60 models seem to sell in the $600 - $900 range.

And these 60 series models were sometimes reported to be
prone to IR and even Burn-In when abused.

The 9G Pioneers weren't prone to IR or Burn In IIRC. Used ones also go for about the same price as the 60 series Panasonic Plasmas too.
All good to know, thanks.

[quote=Test Ickles;58997028]
Quote:
Originally Posted by ekayo View Post
Kuro's are less susceptible to burn it. Think I read it somewhere in here. Never had a hint of image retention on KRP-600m. Still looking for a KRP 500M to use as a computer monitor. Using a Panasonic 50GT30 currently. No issues. Burn in is overrated.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-p...-research.html
The local tech who replaced a rectifier and main supply filter caps in my 1995 32” Toshiba CRT said he also repairs and sells plasmas. If or when a Kuro plasma suffers burn in are they always repairable, or are there specialized parts that are unrepairable and where replacements are now unavailable?

Thanks guys for the great feedback. It’s comforting to see that I probably can’t go wrong with either Panasonic or Pioneer Kuro, though the latter seems to get the loudest raves for blacks and contrast and presumably also for DVD upscaling.

Speaking of all these performance parameters, what’s the truth about plasmas vs. OLEDs-specifically Sony OLEDs like the A9G? Do Kuro plasmas and Sony OLEDs do blacks and contrast equally well? If not, why wouldn’t this be true?

Regarding DVD upscaling, while the 2019 A9G’s algorithms are likely quite powerful is there any reason why most DVD movies would look better on a 1080p Kuro plasma?

Lastly, turning down the brightness will of course reduce power consumption with both plasmas and OLEDs. Any ideas about which would be the more efficient?

Last edited by ekayo; 12-24-2019 at 06:00 PM.
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post #48 of 62 Old 12-25-2019, 08:17 AM
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OLED tech has the best blacks like close being 100%. Plasma tech still has some light coming thru on a full black screen. Pioneer Plasma's like 9G(ninth Generation) 500M can get close to OLED blacks when being tweaked. Blacks will matter when watching clean sources like blu-ray/uhd blu-ray in a dark room. It matters way less when watching DVDs or cable with some light on.

Stuff like Plasma tech is somewhat softer and more forgiving on lower quality sources.
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post #49 of 62 Old 12-25-2019, 06:30 PM
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OLED tech has the best blacks like close being 100%. Plasma tech still has some light coming thru on a full black screen. Pioneer Plasma's like 9G(ninth Generation) 500M can get close to OLED blacks when being tweaked. Blacks will matter when watching clean sources like blu-ray/uhd blu-ray in a dark room. It matters way less when watching DVDs or cable with some light on.

Stuff like Plasma tech is somewhat softer and more forgiving on lower quality sources.
Can’t find a 500m for sale online that will ship; only local pickup.

Next week I’ll try local plasma repair shops; some of them sell plasmas. If no 500m what’s the next best 50” Kuro?

Or a 50" better than the 500m?

And what 50” Panasonic comes closest to those top Kuros?

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post #50 of 62 Old 12-26-2019, 07:37 AM
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The latest Poineers have the best blacks which are the 500M ones (50 inch). There was the 9G lineup of which the monitor versions (500M/600M) were the latest ones (the 600M (60 inch) is the bigger version of the 500M but it has lesser blacks. Basically all 9G Pioneers are excellent Plasma's and so are all 2013 Panasonic Plasma's.

The top 2013 Panasonic Plasma ZT60 is declared the equal of the the best Pioneer Plasma's.

Poineer Plasma production ended in 2009. Panasonic took over most of there stuff. Panasonic Plasma production ended in 2013.
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post #51 of 62 Old 12-26-2019, 02:42 PM
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Can’t find a 500m for sale online that will ship; only local pickup.

Next week I’ll try local plasma repair shops; some of them sell plasmas. If no 500m what’s the next best 50” Kuro?

Or a 50" better than the 500m?

And what 50” Panasonic comes closest to those top Kuros?
Pioneer KURO PDP-5020FD has been excellent for us. Among the "Video" pre-set picture list options is "Movie". Using a couple of Blu-ray test discs in our low light room (one shielded low-wattage lamp in a corner behind us with no reflection on the TV screen) we set the Tint to 1 click away from Red, and the Color to -1. Even without the Blu-ray test discs the picture was excellent. Over the years we've never needed to readjust which suggests that the PDP-5020FD is indeed well-made and built to last.

A note on our typical daily usage of this TV over a ten-year period. The TV is connected to our HTPC which, in turn, is connected to a Silicondust HDHomerun Prime digital cable tuner box (3 tuners built-in). HTPC is connected to the Pioneer TV is via a single HDMI cable.
We power up the TV and HTPC each morning. We play music for a couple of hours with the TV on but using the "Picture Off" setting, so it's just for sound. Later, the TV is used as a monitor for the HTPC for approximately 6 or 7 hours. In the evening we watch about 3 hours of TV or TV/movie mix. The TV is powered off before we go to bed. This pattern is repeated most days; thus, it has seen at least 30,000 hours of use and still works fine. I should note that we never leave a static image or a news banner or logo on the screen for an extended length of time, and we've never experienced burn-in. Also, the TV, HTPC, and digital tuner box are all connected to a Belkin power distribution unit/surge protector. This provides nice, steady, spike-free power which helps ensure long life for all the connected components.
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post #52 of 62 Old 12-27-2019, 04:46 PM
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Minimizing Plasma Power Draw & Heat?

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Originally Posted by southleft View Post
Pioneer KURO PDP-5020FD has been excellent for us. Among the "Video" pre-set picture list options is "Movie". Using a couple of Blu-ray test discs in our low light room (one shielded low-wattage lamp in a corner behind us with no reflection on the TV screen) we set the Tint to 1 click away from Red, and the Color to -1. Even without the Blu-ray test discs the picture was excellent. Over the years we've never needed to readjust which suggests that the PDP-5020FD is indeed well-made and built to last.

Later, the TV is used as a monitor for the HTPC for approximately 6 or 7 hours. In the evening we watch about 3 hours of TV or TV/movie mix. The TV is powered off before we go to bed. This pattern is repeated most days; thus, it has seen at least 30,000 hours of use and still works fine. I should note that we never leave a static image or a news banner or logo on the screen for an extended length of time, and we've never experienced burn-in.
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Originally Posted by 8mile13 View Post
The latest Pioneers have the best blacks which are the 500M ones (50 inch). There was the 9G lineup of which the monitor versions (500M/600M) were the latest ones (the 600M (60 inch) is the bigger version of the 500M but it has lesser blacks. Basically all 9G Pioneers are excellent Plasma's and so are all 2013 Panasonic Plasma's.

The top 2013 Panasonic Plasma ZT60 is declared the equal of the the best Pioneer Plasma's.

Pioneer Plasma production ended in 2009. Panasonic took over most of there stuff. Panasonic Plasma production ended in 2013.
Southleft, is the 5020FD is still pretty much the space heater even in your all but pitch black room and with the low power draw features enabled? https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/P...sma/PDP-5020FD

I never do gaming, watch sports or fast action movies. I watch lots of film noir classic movies and TV shows (e.g. “Gilda”, “Out of the Past”, “Cat People”, “Stoney Burke”), slow moving color TV shows [e.g. X files, Outer Limits TNG, “Enlightened”) and rich color and movies (e.g. “Three Women”, “Inferno” (1953), “Johnny Guitar” (1954), “2001: A Space Odyssey”, “I Love You Alice B. Toklas”]

Would such content still push lots of hot air out of the plasma in a darkened room?

And/or generally more heat when used for online shopping, email, youtube videos?

8mile13, would you expect the 500m Kuro and Panasonic draw more power overall than the 5020FD? Again, not a deal breaker but would nice to know. Presumably, they at least have the same light sensors and low/brightness power mode features.

Thanks guys for these Kuro and Panasonic model numbers for at least some of the top three 50” models.

Trouble is ebay sellers don’t usually ship. But at least I can ask my local guys if they can get any of these top models, so any additional top models could only help my chances find the best performing 50” available.
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post #53 of 62 Old 12-27-2019, 06:08 PM
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At C|NET
500M is rated at Power Consumption Operational 386 Watt
5020FD Default 293.33 Calibrated 272.67 Power Save 269.2
ZT60 Default 210.35 Calibrated 359.28 Power Save 188.01

My current main screen is a 500M. It is pro-calibrated and i only use it for Blu-ray movies...1/2 movies a day. There is some heat..does not help that much when it is cold in the house Stuff like ZT60 and 500M are reference 1080p TVs, pro-calibration makes them shine...
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post #54 of 62 Old 12-28-2019, 11:45 AM
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8mile13 asked:

" Southleft, is the 5020FD is still pretty much the space heater even in your all but pitch black room and with the low power draw features enabled? "

Regarding heat emission under those conditions, it depends on the content you're viewing and the picture setting of the TV. For example, viewing an old TV series or movie in black & white and 4:3 aspect ratio with black side bars will generate less heat than watching a recent TV show or movie in full-screen color. How much less heat? Well, if I place the back of my hand near the screen I can feel that there's less heat, but not no heat if that makes any sense. The other factor is the picture setting. For example, viewing a show on the "Movie" pre-set generates less heat than viewing the same content on the "Sport" setting which is brighter, punchier, higher contrast, i.e. it's a markedly more vivid image, thus it generates more heat as measured by my expert back-of-the-hand method. So, viewing a football game played on a sunny day with picture setting on Sport will generate appreciably more heat over a 3 or 4 hour period than watching an old TV b&w western in 4:3 on the Movie setting. (There's also settings such as "Dynamic" and "Performance" which we never use, and an "Optimum" setting which uses a little light sensor and adjusts the picture depending on how much ambient lighting there is (again, we rarely use it). How significant is all this? Our living room is about 12' x 18'. We use the TV every day unless we're away from home. The only time we restrict having the TV on because of the heat it emits is during very hot summer days. If the outdoor temperature is in the 90's or above and our little 10,000BTU room air conditioner is working hard to keep us cool, then we leave the Pioneer TV powered off until later in the day when it begins to cool down outside. So, even during a hot spell we use the TV, but not during the hottest part of the day. Hope that information is in some way useful.

Next, let's discuss power draw. At home we don't use the Power Save settings on our PDP-5020FD. I tried them years ago and noticed two things. Subjectively, Power Save 1 and 2 didn't make any noticeable difference in the amount of heat generated by the TV. Power Save 2 did, however, cause a slight loss of picture quality in that contrast between dark and bright scenes was subjectively diminished. It wasn't a huge difference, but it was enough to perceive it as not-quite-as-good as the default (Power Save off) setting. Since Power Save did little to diminish heat output then why settle for diminished picture quality? Thus, all my assessment of performance and durability over the years is based upon not using the Power Save settings.

Also, we do use the feature that moves the picture around imperceptibly by shifting the image a few pixels in one direction or another. The idea is to help prevent image retention and/or burn-in. As I recall, the settings for that are called Orbit 1 and Orbit 2. We use Orbit 1 and the only time we can tell that the Orbit 1 is enabled is when we're using the HTPC and have a full-screen window open. In this case we might notice that a corner of the picture is partially obscured. Note that it doesn't obscure the content of the page, just a tiny bit in the corner(s). Example: Internet browser is open full-screen. The red X in the top right corner is 2/3 visible rather than fully visible. This will soon shift so that a different corner is slightly off-screen. Let me be clear that this effect is so slight that it's never distracting. We never see the image move around. I only mention it at all because I assume it makes some small contribution towards preventing image retention. There is a setting that affects the visible area more. When "Video" is selected under Setup/Option/HDMI input one choose "Full" or "Dot-by-Dot". Full is the overscan setting wherein all four sides of the picture extend slightly off the screen. This fine for TV, but not good if using the TV as a computer monitor. The other HDMI input setting is "PC", and the sides/edges of the picture are not pushed off-screen.
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The latest Poineers have the best blacks which are the 500M ones (50 inch). There was the 9G lineup of which the monitor versions (500M/600M) were the latest ones (the 600M (60 inch) is the bigger version of the 500M but it has lesser blacks. Basically all 9G Pioneers are excellent Plasma's and so are all 2013 Panasonic Plasma's.

The top 2013 Panasonic Plasma ZT60 is declared the equal of the the best Pioneer Plasma's.

Poineer Plasma production ended in 2009. Panasonic took over most of there stuff. Panasonic Plasma production ended in 2013.
I am looking to buy the 500m right now. I posted here in Classifieds. Don't expect good luck but worth trying. If I cannot find one for sale you said the Panasonic ZT60 is the next best. But 60" too big for my room. Did Panasonic make a 50" version that is otherwise identical to the ZT60?
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post #56 of 62 Old 12-29-2019, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ekayo View Post
I am looking to buy the 500m right now. I posted here in Classifieds. Don't expect good luck but worth trying. If I cannot find one for sale you said the Panasonic ZT60 is the next best. But 60" too big for my room. Did Panasonic make a 50" version that is otherwise identical to the ZT60?
There are folks that think the top 9G Pioneers are the best Plasma's and there are folks that think that the ZT60 is the best Plasma..depend on who you speak. btw the experts gave the VT60 slightly higher ratings the important VE Shootout. There is no 50ZT60. Not shure if the 50'' VT60 is for sale in the US.
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There are folks that think the top 9G Pioneers are the best Plasma's and there are folks that think that the ZT60 is the best Plasma..depend on who you speak. btw the experts gave the VT60 slightly higher ratings the important VE Shootout. There is no 50ZT60. Not shure if the 50'' VT60 is for sale in the US.
But isn’t there a 50” Panasonic plasma that many have claimed equals or even surpasses the 500m? I really can’t go much bigger than a 48.5” wide panel in this small room. Trust me, if you lived on Long Island you would know painfully well what housing costs and property taxes are like here.
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But isn’t there a 50” Panasonic plasma that many have claimed equals or even surpasses the 500m? I really can’t go much bigger than a 48.5” wide panel in this small room. Trust me, if you lived on Long Island you would know painfully well what housing costs and property taxes are like here.
No there is not. The 500M has the best Plasma blacks and it can be tweaked to be OLED like. At Pioneer it was a financial mess at the time that is why folks at product development could do as they please and come up with a product that was way ahead of its time. The top 9G Poineers had the best 1080p picture quality for 5 years.


If there is a 50'' VT60 that would be great to. Not shure what sizes were available in the US.
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post #59 of 62 Old 12-29-2019, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekayo View Post
But isn’t there a 50” Panasonic plasma that many have claimed equals or even surpasses the 500m? I really can’t go much bigger than a 48.5” wide panel in this small room. Trust me, if you lived on Long Island you would know painfully well what housing costs and property taxes are like here.
There was no 50" VT60 or ZT60 in the USA.

In the 50" screen size range there are only two top choices: the 50" Panny TC-P50ST60 and 51" Samsung PND51F8500.

Both are less than 47" overall width, and both are a notch or two below the ZT60 or 9G Kuro in the black level and contrast categories but these models are still extremely good.

There was a 55" VT60 but it's about 52" wide. I think the smallest ZT60 was a 60 incher.

My memory of these extinct displays is fading... . . . . . . . .


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" And yet nobody thought to mention that a calibrated plasma typically draws substantially less power than out of the box??? "

I understand that power draw is part of your research. It's simple, really. If you truly want the plasma TV's combination of excellent image quality, excellent color rendition, wide viewing angle, and zero moving image blur/artifacts, then you accept that it has a significantly higher power draw than many other TVs and it puts out noticeably more heat, too. Of course you can mitigate both of those a little bit by having it calibrated, but it's not a big difference. Who cares if it costs $60/year instead of $80/year? Here's an analogy: You want the advantages of an SUV over a compact sedan. So, you accept that it's heavier and uses a lot more gas. Sure, you can go light on the gas pedal and pussy it around town, but it's still a big honkin' SUV and a gas guzzler, period.
If you can't abide the power draw and heat, buy a QLED or OLED or whatever.
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