Pioneer Kuro still going strong!! - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 88 Old 01-02-2019, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nykerk View Post
Hi:


I have a PRO-111FD. Over the past month I have noticed purple shading only when the background is white. Does this mean my plasma is going bad, or is there a setting that needs to be tweaked or refreshed?


See the attached image.



Thanks
looks similar to what happened when i adjusted voltages on the back of my plasma too far. perhaps you can fix it by adjusting the voltages on yours?

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post #62 of 88 Old 01-04-2019, 04:36 AM
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Happy New Year to all those still running Pioneer Plasmas, my KRP-500M is fast approaching 25,000 hours - with no issues.

I know that I will eventually replace it with either OLED or QLED or XLED - but I can afford to wait for all the early generation problems to be sorted, before making the change.

9+ years of calibrated pictures does make you a bit picky.

Regards, Mike.
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post #63 of 88 Old 01-05-2019, 10:39 PM
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I can't believe it's been just over 10 years! I bought my 151FD around July of 2008 and it's still like new!


Over the years I've had my 151FD calibrated by Jeff Meyer. In fact I'm going to have him over again (sometime in May) to calibrate it again for the first time in a few years.

I'd like to upgrade for a bigger screen and better blacks, but I'm still waiting out the issues with the new OLED TVs. Also, the Pioneer can handle motion better (from what I keep reading.) So hopefully that will be improved on too with the newer equipment.
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post #64 of 88 Old 01-07-2019, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nykerk View Post
Hi:


I have a PRO-111FD. Over the past month I have noticed purple shading only when the background is white. Does this mean my plasma is going bad, or is there a setting that needs to be tweaked or refreshed?


See the attached image.



Thanks
Yep, quite common when this sets get older, but its quite easy to get rid of magenta pixles;

1. Increase the XPOFS_2 by 15, in my case that was from 63 to 78
2. Decrease YSUS_B to 124 (original value 128) and the XSUS_B to 126 (original value 128)

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post #65 of 88 Old 01-07-2019, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vidCAL.com View Post
Yep, quite common when this sets get older, but its quite easy to get rid of magenta pixles;

1. Increase the XPOFS_2 by 15, in my case that was from 63 to 78
2. Decrease YSUS_B to 124 (original value 128) and the XSUS_B to 126 (original value 128)
Where is this on my TV? How do I access it with my remote?



Can I access it myself, or does this require a special computer access to the TV?
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post #66 of 88 Old 01-08-2019, 03:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nykerk View Post
Where is this on my TV? How do I access it with my remote?



Can I access it myself, or does this require a special computer access to the TV?

Yes, you will need ControlCal (or other), a serial cable (DB9 Female to DB9 Female Straight-Through) and USB-to-serial adapter to hook it up to your laptop. From there on you can access service menu on your KRP.

Don't be overwhelmed, its actually quite easy and there a lots of guides on this forum (and other places). You will then also want to do other voltage mods, to get deeper blacks, get rid of reddish tint on black, raise ABL, etc... You will appreciate your TV in a whole new way, KUROs are still my favourite panels for 1080p viewing, there is nothing out there that handles motion so film like.

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post #67 of 88 Old 01-08-2019, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nykerk View Post
Where is this on my TV? How do I access it with my remote?



Can I access it myself, or does this require a special computer access to the TV?
get a cheap harmony remote, and have the hex code added to it, much easier

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post #68 of 88 Old 01-08-2019, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craigyboy View Post
get a cheap harmony remote, and have the hex code added to it, much easier
My set up includes a Logitech Harmony remote.


Can you refer my to the steps I need to add the "hex code"?


Thanks
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post #69 of 88 Old 01-08-2019, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nykerk View Post
My set up includes a Logitech Harmony remote.


Can you refer my to the steps I need to add the "hex code"?


Thanks
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-p...l#post24311554

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post #70 of 88 Old 01-08-2019, 01:58 PM
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post #71 of 88 Old 01-12-2019, 03:21 AM
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My KRP-600M will turn 10 in feb 2019... 10 years! It has got over 36.000 hours on it

I did a new calibration last week, last calibration was i think 8 years ago... it did need some tweaking but it looks amazing again. Max. lightoutput has suffered, in ISF Day i can get about 106 nits. I could get more, but during measuring i noticed when i set contrast higher then 36, the blue has a large nasty roll off after 90IRE that i can't fix with the RGB gain/offsets. The rolloff makes white look yellowish. So i dialed contrast back a bit so i could get a near perfect calibration again.

For 4K and HDR i have a JVC-X7500 projector set up with a 120" Elite screen.
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post #72 of 88 Old 01-12-2019, 06:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jowicrt View Post
My KRP-600M will turn 10 in feb 2019... 10 years! It has got over 36.000 hours on it

I did a new calibration last week, last calibration was i think 8 years ago... it did need some tweaking but it looks amazing again. Max. lightoutput has suffered, in ISF Day i can get about 106 nits. I could get more, but during measuring i noticed when i set contrast higher then 36, the blue has a large nasty roll off after 90IRE that i can't fix with the RGB gain/offsets. The rolloff makes white look yellowish. So i dialed contrast back a bit so i could get a near perfect calibration again.

For 4K and HDR i have a JVC-X7500 projector set up with a 120" Elite screen.
have you also tweaked your set?

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post #73 of 88 Old 01-12-2019, 06:31 AM
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Not really. A few years ago i tried to minimize the red glow by adjusting voltages described here in the 9G topic, but i got the purple sparks almost with every setting i tried. The red glow is a lot less visible then it was but not totally gone. I am now reading up on some other tweaks people do, but it’s hard to search these old topics.

I would be very interested in tweaks and settings that would compensate for aging and possible degrading, especially to compensate for the decreased lightoutput. This set will not do the 140-150 nits we got back in the day

I did up my ABL today from the default 128 to 150, will do some meausurements tonight so see what the effect is.

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post #74 of 88 Old 01-12-2019, 09:50 AM
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I've had the PDP-5080 for 11 years I set the calibration from suggestions given here and it's been just prefect. I have noticed recently the red tint on totally dark screens, not when watching content so I'm not too worried by it.


I'm auditioning a new soundbar as I thought I was missing sound quality but as it turns out I prefer the sound bar that came with the panel so I'll send the other back. It is quite tinny sounding with faux surround mode in comparison the Pioneer sound bar is very natural sounding. I could understand some wanting a sound bar if none was included with the panel.


I like most have been watching the development of the new oled technology. I've decided that I can wait a few more years after looking at the price of a new Sony 65". Let the technology mature, prices to come down and hopefully Sony will realize the tilt back stand is a mistake. Til then I'll be quite content with my Kuro while patting myself on the back for finding this great TV.
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post #75 of 88 Old 01-12-2019, 09:59 AM
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The 60" Kuro back in the day replaced my Barco Graphics 1209s which i used for HD and an old Sony Wega TV i used for regular SD/cable watching. HDTV was upcoming back in those days. It was a big step to loose the 1209 and 'only' have a 60" Kuro... but the imagequality of the Kuro made up for it.

I've said then that i would never go back to using a projector, i predicted that in 10 years or so the flatscreens would be 100" at least and of similar quality of the Kuro, and half the price... so i would buy a nice 100" TV in 2020 or so for about $2500. Sadly that was not the case as we know now So i did buy a projector to make sure i don't miss out on 4K HDR (JVC-X7500). But in 5 years, flatscreens WILL be at least 100", very good, and cheap i just know it

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post #76 of 88 Old 01-21-2019, 02:41 PM
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Ive had my 5020 for 10 yrs next month. It has 18,700 hrs on it and is going strong, except Im fairly certain all but one of my HDMI ports are bad. I decided to get a new display and searched around online and was fortunate to find a 151FD for sell near me. I went and looked at it and got it for $300. Only 8,000 hrs on it.
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post #77 of 88 Old 01-22-2019, 06:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thebarnman View Post
I can't believe it's been just over 10 years! I bought my 151FD around July of 2008 and it's still like new!


Over the years I've had my 151FD calibrated by Jeff Meyer. In fact I'm going to have him over again (sometime in May) to calibrate it again for the first time in a few years.

I'd like to upgrade for a bigger screen and better blacks, but I'm still waiting out the issues with the new OLED TVs. Also, the Pioneer can handle motion better (from what I keep reading.) So hopefully that will be improved on too with the newer equipment.

Jeff is The Dude and so much fun to hang with when he calibrates. Lots of knowledge in that brain of his to pick from.
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post #78 of 88 Old 03-12-2019, 11:57 AM
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Approaching 11 years on my 151 also calibrated by Jeff Meyer. I only have one issue with it that has me considering getting rid of it. It puts out so much heat that I can pop corn in front of it. Here in Tampa there is enough heat around. Flawless picture and at 16 ft. viewing distance no hurry to move to 4k. No idea how many hours are on it. May have to get ControlCal and hook up an old laptop with a serial port. I will be able to view hours with that program right?
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post #79 of 88 Old 03-12-2019, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hamsamish09 View Post
Approaching 11 years on my 151 also calibrated by Jeff Meyer. I only have one issue with it that has me considering getting rid of it. It puts out so much heat that I can pop corn in front of it. Here in Tampa there is enough heat around. Flawless picture and at 16 ft. viewing distance no hurry to move to 4k. No idea how many hours are on it. May have to get ControlCal and hook up an old laptop with a serial port. I will be able to view hours with that program right?
Search the forum for "Kuroreader" - it will connect via ethernet, and gives access to all the service info.

Regards, Mike.

Note: just checked my KRP500M - 26520 hours, still going strong, and yes - it does help to keep the room warm!!
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post #80 of 88 Old 03-12-2019, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hamsamish09 View Post
Approaching 11 years on my 151 also calibrated by Jeff Meyer. I only have one issue with it that has me considering getting rid of it. It puts out so much heat that I can pop corn in front of it. Here in Tampa there is enough heat around. Flawless picture and at 16 ft. viewing distance no hurry to move to 4k. No idea how many hours are on it. May have to get ControlCal and hook up an old laptop with a serial port. I will be able to view hours with that program right?
Interesting. My KRP-600M is one of my coolest running plasma.
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post #81 of 88 Old 04-25-2019, 12:08 PM
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My KRP-600M still looks amazing! Recently checked the usage and i'm just under 18000 hours, works out to be about 5 hours a day as I bought it in November 2009. But I do have to admit, the thought of selling & upgrading is increasing lately. I hope this isn't against forum rules, but anyone have an idea what the market value would be today?
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post #82 of 88 Old 04-26-2019, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Nick_SSSC View Post
My KRP-600M still looks amazing! Recently checked the usage and i'm just under 18000 hours, works out to be about 5 hours a day as I bought it in November 2009. But I do have to admit, the thought of selling & upgrading is increasing lately. I hope this isn't against forum rules, but anyone have an idea what the market value would be today?
About $500 and it may take awhile to sell. The classics are better off keeping. Their performance is much better than their market value.
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post #83 of 88 Old 05-31-2019, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thebarnman View Post
I can't believe it's been just over 10 years! I bought my 151FD around July of 2008 and it's still like new!


Over the years I've had my 151FD calibrated by Jeff Meyer. In fact I'm going to have him over again (sometime in May) to calibrate it again for the first time in a few years.

I'd like to upgrade for a bigger screen and better blacks, but I'm still waiting out the issues with the new OLED TVs. Also, the Pioneer can handle motion better (from what I keep reading.) So hopefully that will be improved on too with the newer equipment.
Jeff has calibrated my Kuro Elite 3 times. Last time was just a minor adjustment increasing blue gain one notch and that was it. I have over 30k hours on mine and it looks as if new picture wise and physically. Best purchase ever. I still have it but recently bought the Sony A9G Oled. While 4K and HDR are pretty cool, the Kuro is still better with screen uniformity and motion. These Oleds are a mess when it comes to screen uniformity. Red, yellow and green blotches all over the place. This reminds me way too much of my Sony 70” Qualia that I had back in 2007. Same kind of look on the screen. Pink and green mainly. The Kuro has none of this. I have a few weeks to return if it doesn’t get any better or if my eyes can’t adapt to this.Motion is pretty good on the Sony Oleds though. The Kuro is just a marvel, overbuilt and has proven to be a real workhorse. I’m not quite ready to let it leave the house.
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post #84 of 88 Old 05-31-2019, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by hifi59 View Post
Jeff has calibrated my Kuro Elite 3 times. Last time was just a minor adjustment increasing blue gain one notch and that was it. I have over 30k hours on mine and it looks as if new picture wise and physically. Best purchase ever. I still have it but recently bought the Sony A9G Oled. While 4K and HDR are pretty cool, the Kuro is still better with screen uniformity and motion. These Oleds are a mess when it comes to screen uniformity. Red, yellow and green blotches all over the place. This reminds me way too much of my Sony 70” Qualia that I had back in 2007. Same kind of look on the screen. Pink and green mainly. The Kuro has none of this. I have a few weeks to return if it doesn’t get any better or if my eyes can’t adapt to this.Motion is pretty good on the Sony Oleds though. The Kuro is just a marvel, overbuilt and has proven to be a real workhorse. I’m not quite ready to let it leave the house.
Jeff was here just a couple weeks ago and did an excellent job not only with my Pro-151FD Kuro, but also with calibrating my audio system. Sooner or later I'd like to upgrade my plasma, but like you said, there's too many little issues I'm waiting for them to iron out. I was thinking (and still am thinking) MicroLED might be the type of flat panel I might buy to replace my Kuro. MicroLED has blacks like OLED, with brightness like a LED and they're coming out with a flat panel possibly sometime later this year. Jeff however mentioned that right now the pixels are kind of big; so I have no idea if that will be able to be addressed or not, or if in fact it really matters once your looking overall at the video on the screen at normal distances. As far as absolute blacks and brightness as bright as a LED, I have no idea on how things like uniformity and motion looks on such a set. I guess all we can do is wait to find out.

Movies must be OAR, sports and movies must also have 5.1 audio, No EE or NO SALE!
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post #85 of 88 Old 06-01-2019, 11:33 AM
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My 5020 is starting to get blue pixels near the top middle on an all white background particularly when first turned on. Haven’t tried turning off energy saver 2 (which I leave on because I sometimes fall asleep with the TV on) to see if it helps at all. It’s got tons of hours by now though.
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post #86 of 88 Old 06-16-2019, 03:16 PM
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My 5020 is still going strong and is still the best looking TV in the house!

anseK®

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post #87 of 88 Old 06-18-2019, 12:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vidCAL.com View Post
Yep, quite common when this sets get older, but its quite easy to get rid of magenta pixles;

1. Increase the XPOFS_2 by 15, in my case that was from 63 to 78
2. Decrease YSUS_B to 124 (original value 128) and the XSUS_B to 126 (original value 128)

Do you know where this came from? It was posted in the Kuro reset thread a few years ago (see attachment), but I have been wondering if it originally came from a service centre or a Pioneer engineer.

On my LX5090, I have sparkles on RST MASK 21 (Red) and they go away when I raise XPOFS2 to 78, and different values for XSUS and YSUS makes sense given that they drive different sets of voltages.
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post #88 of 88 Old 06-25-2019, 01:46 AM
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Does anyone know if Pioneer made a 720p Kuro TV with a DVI or HDMI input which supported 1:1 pixel mapping?
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