Panasonic ST60 Died. Can it be repaired? - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 53 Old 01-05-2020, 02:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Test Ickles View Post
Great job!

Well some bad news. In the process of applying thread locker and putting the screws back in I over tightened one of the screws and it broke off. There is not enough of the screw sticking out to get anything on the edge of the screw to twist it out.
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post #32 of 53 Old 01-05-2020, 04:51 PM
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That is a bad break. Think you can get it out with one of those broken screw tools?
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post #33 of 53 Old 01-05-2020, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by sealteamz6 View Post
Well some bad news. In the process of applying thread locker and putting the screws back in I over tightened one of the screws and it broke off. There is not enough of the screw sticking out to get anything on the edge of the screw to twist it out.
You should not have used nearly that much force to tighten that screw. You only need to snug them down, not crank them tightly. You may have used way too much locktight too (you only need a teensy bit along one side).

If you have a Dremel Tool with a Carbide Cutting Disk, you might be able to very carefully cut a slot in the stub that's sticking out, then use a flat blade screwdriver that fits tightly into that slot and very slowly back that broken screw out. I've successfully done this on screws smaller than that board screw.

Alternately, you can get a really small EZ Out extractor bit. The hardest part will be accurately drilling out the center of that broken screw in order to insert the EZ Out bit.

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post #34 of 53 Old 01-05-2020, 07:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Test Ickles View Post
That is a bad break. Think you can get it out with one of those broken screw tools?

I assume I would need some sort of tap and die set?
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post #35 of 53 Old 01-05-2020, 07:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post
You should not have used nearly that much force to tighten that screw. You only need to snug them down, not crank them tightly. You may have used way too much locktight too (you only need a teensy bit along one side).

If you have a Dremel Tool with a Carbide Cutting Disk, you might be able to very carefully cut a slot in the stub that's sticking out, then use a flat blade screwdriver that fits tightly into that slot and very slowly back that broken screw out. I've successfully done this on screws smaller than that board screw.

Alternately, you can get a really small EZ Out extractor bit. The hardest part will be accurately drilling out the center of that broken screw in order to insert the EZ Out bit.

______________________________________________

I barely used any loctite on the screws I just think I over tightened it. But I was just twisting until they stopped turning. I mean when they were "loose" they were already what I would consider snug.


I will try out one of those things. I think an EZ out extractor sounds like the easiest way to go. The part of the screw stuck in isn't sticking out of the hole at all so I don't know that the first option would work.


Got any recommendations for EZ out extractors or should I just go to a Lowes or Home Depot and try and find one?
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post #36 of 53 Old 01-06-2020, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sealteamz6 View Post
I barely used any loctite on the screws I just think I over tightened it. But I was just twisting until they stopped turning. I mean when they were "loose" they were already what I would consider snug.

I will try out one of those things. I think an EZ out extractor sounds like the easiest way to go. The part of the screw stuck in isn't sticking out of the hole at all so I don't know that the first option would work.

Got any recommendations for EZ out extractors or should I just go to a Lowes or Home Depot and try and find one?
Ah, i thought there might be enough of a nub sticking out above the chassis bracket to enable you to slot it. But if it's broken off flush then the EZ Out is probably your only option. It's important to precisely drill the hole exactly centered in that broken screw so as not to damage the threads in the chassis. You only have one shot at getting that broken screw out.

I have an old EZ Out screw extractor kit that has some pretty small extractor bits, and it came with the corresponding drill bits (each extractor requires a specific bit size). I've used it a few times on screws that are smaller than the Panasonic board screw (engine mount screw on an RC Model Plane was one time). Small drill bits like this break easily so i use my Dremel Tool as a drill instead of my much heavier and ungainly 1/4" hand drill as it's easier to handle. You don't want to break the drill bit off inside that broken screw.

Use a very sharp Center Punch in the very center of that stub. If the broken area is too lumpy where it twisted off, maybe smooth it down with a dremel wheel if possible before center punching it. Work slowly with surgical precision :-)

And the extractor bit itself is hardened and they snap easily, especially in the smaller sizes so be careful. If it breaks off inside that screw, you're screwed.

If you haven't sourced a replacement screw, maybe buy the upgraded XYN3+F6FJ-16PK Factory Board Screw Kit (enter this item number in the Search field: 183582086553).

Shop Jimmy has an 18 piece version: XYN3+F6FJ-18PK

https://www.shopjimmy.com/panasonic-...xoCEhgQAvD_BwE

They're for the 30 and 50 series but i presume they're the same on the 60 series (they reportedly fit other models than those listed).

If you're just using a generic metric screw, maybe steal a good screw from a non-important board to use on the SC board, then use the generic screw on the other board.

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post #37 of 53 Old 01-06-2020, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sealteamz6 View Post
I barely used any loctite on the screws I just think I over tightened it. But I was just twisting until they stopped turning. I mean when they were "loose" they were already what I would consider snug.


I will try out one of those things. I think an EZ out extractor sounds like the easiest way to go. The part of the screw stuck in isn't sticking out of the hole at all so I don't know that the first option would work.


Got any recommendations for EZ out extractors or should I just go to a Lowes or Home Depot and try and find one?
Can you post a pic of the screw. If the broken screw is firmly hold the board in place then we might be able to leave it. Just missing the head. Loose screws cause grounding issues causing buzz and failure. If the broken screw is snug and you think it is still keeping good connection for grounding then just put some solder on top of it to replicate where the screw head would be touching the board. Best solution is to get it out and replace though.
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post #38 of 53 Old 01-07-2020, 05:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post
Ah, i thought there might be enough of a nub sticking out above the chassis bracket to enable you to slot it. But if it's broken off flush then the EZ Out is probably your only option. It's important to precisely drill the hole exactly centered in that broken screw so as not to damage the threads in the chassis. You only have one shot at getting that broken screw out.

I have an old EZ Out screw extractor kit that has some pretty small extractor bits, and it came with the corresponding drill bits (each extractor requires a specific bit size). I've used it a few times on screws that are smaller than the Panasonic board screw (engine mount screw on an RC Model Plane was one time). Small drill bits like this break easily so i use my Dremel Tool as a drill instead of my much heavier and ungainly 1/4" hand drill as it's easier to handle. You don't want to break the drill bit off inside that broken screw.

Use a very sharp Center Punch in the very center of that stub. If the broken area is too lumpy where it twisted off, maybe smooth it down with a dremel wheel if possible before center punching it. Work slowly with surgical precision :-)

And the extractor bit itself is hardened and they snap easily, especially in the smaller sizes so be careful. If it breaks off inside that screw, you're screwed.

If you haven't sourced a replacement screw, maybe buy the upgraded XYN3+F6FJ-16PK Factory Board Screw Kit (enter this item number in the Search field: 183582086553).

Shop Jimmy has an 18 piece version: XYN3+F6FJ-18PK

https://www.shopjimmy.com/panasonic-...xoCEhgQAvD_BwE

They're for the 30 and 50 series but i presume they're the same on the 60 series (they reportedly fit other models than those listed).

If you're just using a generic metric screw, maybe steal a good screw from a non-important board to use on the SC board, then use the generic screw on the other board.

_______________________________________________

Randy what brand of extractor do you have? I am struggling to find the right sizing and brand that has ones that small.


I am borrowing a dremel from a coworker.


I purchased those screws you posted. Thank you very much for that. I couldn't find those before.
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post #39 of 53 Old 01-07-2020, 05:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Test Ickles View Post
Can you post a pic of the screw. If the broken screw is firmly hold the board in place then we might be able to leave it. Just missing the head. Loose screws cause grounding issues causing buzz and failure. If the broken screw is snug and you think it is still keeping good connection for grounding then just put some solder on top of it to replicate where the screw head would be touching the board. Best solution is to get it out and replace though.

I am not quite sure what you mean but the shaft of the screw is completely broken off from the head. I have attached the pictures.
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post #40 of 53 Old 01-08-2020, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sealteamz6 View Post
I am not quite sure what you mean but the shaft of the screw is completely broken off from the head. I have attached the pictures.
I was thinking it broke off with the board attached. You should be able to get that out no problem with the right tool.
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post #41 of 53 Old 01-08-2020, 11:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Test Ickles View Post
I was thinking it broke off with the board attached. You should be able to get that out no problem with the right tool.

I hope so. Problem is I can't find the right kit with extractors that are small enough.
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post #42 of 53 Old 01-08-2020, 01:47 PM
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Was that screw one of the actual Grounding Screws? Or just one of the screws to hold the board down. I'm not an expert (at all) but, if it's not a Grounding Screw, i would think the board would be secure enough with the other screws that just hold it. But if it's one of the metal tabbed holes absolutely ground it with some solder like Test Icles suggested.

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post #43 of 53 Old 01-08-2020, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sealteamz6 View Post
I purchased those screws you posted. Thank you very much for that. I couldn't find those before.
Good. I presume they're the same size (might be 4mm or 3mm). I would not use the thread locker with these. I also recommend you test them in that board's mounting spot (leave the board off during the test) screwing them into the holes by hand until they bottom out to make sure the threads are correct, and make sure they don't bind or bottom out when you later install the board.

I'm still wondering why your screw broke off well below the head since you said you didn't crank it down too hard. The stub looks smooth enough that you can get an accurately centered center punch crater in dead center.



Quote:
I am borrowing a dremel from a coworker.
Good. It's much easier to hold steady when doing precision drilling. If you happen to lean to the side while drilling with that small of a drill bit it easily snaps so remember to be careful.


Quote:
Randy what brand of extractor do you have? I am struggling to find the right sizing and brand that has ones that small.
I've had this kit for over 30 years and it was made by Hanson, but it has a lot of extractors and taps and dies and drill bits.
Hanson is still around and they have a few kits with less bits and no tap-handle tool that i see online. The handle i use with the smaller extractor is just a regular Tap Wrench Handle but you have to have one small enough to tighten down on the smaller extractor bits. I have a few different small sizes so i always have the right handle. The larger handle won't tighten down enough on the smaller bits.

Below is a description for the Hanson 53535 kit.

I think you'll need to use the size #1 or #2 Extractor. Be sure to use the correct drill bit size.

Screw Extractor Set Hanson 53535 Spiral Screw Extractor Set, 5 Piece

Contents:
#1 for 3/32" - 5/32", 2.5mm - 4mm, #3 to #6
#2 for 5/32" - 7/32", 4mm - 6mm, #6 to #1 2
#3 for 7/32" - 9/32", 6mm - 8mm, #1 2
#4 for 9/32" - 3/8", 1/8" NPT, 1/8" BSP, 8mm - 10mm
#5 for 3/8" - 5/8", 1/4" NPT, 1/4" BSP, 10mm - 16mm

Features:
Set contains extractors #1 through #5
Left-hand spiral design, for removal of broken studs, bolts, screws and fittings
High carbon steel, square drive
Extractor size and recommended drill bit size are etched on each extractor


Hanson 53535 kit: eBay item number for instance is 112784981567

There's also a kit that comes with the drill bits: eBay item number 114007007898

Tap Wrench: eBay item number 254462731950 (but they have 3 sizes)

Edit - here's another interesting kit - one side of the bit has a short drill eBay item number: 352905424496

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post #44 of 53 Old 01-08-2020, 07:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jst333 View Post
Was that screw one of the actual Grounding Screws? Or just one of the screws to hold the board down. I'm not an expert (at all) but, if it's not a Grounding Screw, i would think the board would be secure enough with the other screws that just hold it. But if it's one of the metal tabbed holes absolutely ground it with some solder like Test Icles suggested.

I think it was one of the grounding screws. The solder idea sounds easier than removing the screw and is tempting but if the cost of the extractor tools aren't too expensive I should probably do that.
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post #45 of 53 Old 01-08-2020, 07:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post
Good. I presume they're the same size (might be 4mm or 3mm). I would not use the thread locker with these. I also recommend you test them in that board's mounting spot (leave the board off during the test) screwing them into the holes by hand until they bottom out to make sure the threads are correct, and make sure they don't bind or bottom out when you later install the board.

I'm still wondering why your screw broke off well below the head since you said you didn't crank it down too hard. The stub looks smooth enough that you can get an accurately centered center punch crater in dead center.





Good. It's much easier to hold steady when doing precision drilling. If you happen to lean to the side while drilling with that small of a drill bit it easily snaps so remember to be careful.




I've had this kit for over 30 years and it was made by Hanson, but it has a lot of extractors and taps and dies and drill bits.
Hanson is still around and they have a few kits with less bits and no tap-handle tool that i see online. The handle i use with the smaller extractor is just a regular Tap Wrench Handle but you have to have one small enough to tighten down on the smaller extractor bits. I have a few different small sizes so i always have the right handle. The larger handle won't tighten down enough on the smaller bits.

Below is a description for the Hanson 53535 kit.

I think you'll need to use the size #1 or #2 Extractor. Be sure to use the correct drill bit size.

Screw Extractor Set Hanson 53535 Spiral Screw Extractor Set, 5 Piece

Contents:
#1 for 3/32" - 5/32", 2.5mm - 4mm, #3 to #6
#2 for 5/32" - 7/32", 4mm - 6mm, #6 to #1 2
#3 for 7/32" - 9/32", 6mm - 8mm, #1 2
#4 for 9/32" - 3/8", 1/8" NPT, 1/8" BSP, 8mm - 10mm
#5 for 3/8" - 5/8", 1/4" NPT, 1/4" BSP, 10mm - 16mm

Features:
Set contains extractors #1 through #5
Left-hand spiral design, for removal of broken studs, bolts, screws and fittings
High carbon steel, square drive
Extractor size and recommended drill bit size are etched on each extractor


Hanson 53535 kit: eBay item number for instance is 112784981567

There's also a kit that comes with the drill bits: eBay item number 114007007898

Tap Wrench: eBay item number 254462731950 (but they have 3 sizes)

__________________________________________________ ________

Good advice on the new screws thanks. I am not sure why it broke. Basically each screw I just kept tightening until they stopped turning.


I'll be as careful as I can be. I don't have the most steady hand though so we will see how it goes.


I watched a video on the procedure and it mentioned using a left handed drill bit. Can I try to drill this out with a left handed drill bit???



Okay, so to clarify what I need.


I need a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the extractor. Is there a specific size or do I just match up a slightly smaller drill bit?


I need a punch. I need the extractor. I need the tap wrench.



The video I watched made me concerned about breaking the extractor off in the screw. The other guys mentioned just using soder to create the bond between the screw shaft and the screw head. Obviously this doesn't sound ideal but what is your take on this. It frankly seems cheaper and easier. With less potential risk as well. That said, maybe its a better secondary option if extraction doesn't work?
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post #46 of 53 Old 01-09-2020, 07:52 AM
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Looking at that picture... If it were my TV, rather than risking cracking the plasma glass. I would just solder a short wire from the little guide post to the metal tab, and be done. Obviously not the proper solution, but knowing my luck, i'd probably break something else trying to extract a broken screw with a sheet of glass directly behind it.
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post #47 of 53 Old 01-09-2020, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sealteamz6 View Post
Good advice on the new screws thanks. I am not sure why it broke. Basically each screw I just kept tightening until they stopped turning. I'll be as careful as I can be. I don't have the most steady hand though so we will see how it goes.
I have an extremely steady hand, but for this precision job i'd hold the Dremel tool like a big ink pen (palm resting on the sheetmetal) then further steady the tool with my other hand as i drill the hole. I'd also wear cheater reading glasses to magnify the area a little and protect my eyes from any flying metal shavings. Drill it as if you're a dentist drilling a tiny hole in a tooth.


Quote:
I watched a video on the procedure and it mentioned using a left handed drill bit. Can I try to drill this out with a left handed drill bit???
A left-handed drill bit might work, but the fact that your screw broke in half tells me it's stuck tightly in the threaded hole so the action of drilling a left-handed hole in the center of it probably wouldn't grab the outer portion enough to break the threads free. It would be worth a shot, but left-handed bits are pricey.

An EZ Out on the other hand exerts much more force and the spiral flutes dig into the screw. I've used larger ones to successfully extract broken exhaust manifold studs and suspension mounting bolts etc on my racecars, and smaller ones on model planes and injection molds and switch boxes in the wall and other random stuff through the past 45 years.

Whatever method you use, be super careful not to let the drill bit touch or damage the threads in the TV chassis hole. If you can get the center punch perfectly centered in that broken stub, you can use the larger extractor bit which would be preferable as it's stronger less likely to break.


Quote:
Okay, so to clarify what I need....I need a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the extractor. Is there a specific size or do I just match up a slightly smaller drill bit?
Actually the drill bit would need to be a little larger than the small tip of the extractor so you can insert the extractor a little ways into the hole.

The extractor bit i linked says it has the correct drill size stamped on it. But for 5 bucks more i'd get the "Irwin/Hanson 10 PC SPIRAL SCREW EXTRACTOR AND COBALT DRILL BIT SET 11117" as it comes with all the correct corresponding drill bits (eBay item number: 114007007898)

You don't have to drill the hole too deep, just enough for the extractor bit to grab. If it doesn't grab, drill a little deeper until it does. Try not to drill all the way through - there will be some shavings so if the drill punches through the far side of the screw the shavings might get behind the panel. I'd work on this TV in the upright position, sitting on it's table stand.


Quote:
I need a punch. I need the extractor. I need the tap wrench.
Yup. Yup. Yup. Use a good sharp center punch and hold it firmly in the center before hitting it with the hammer. Tap it lightly on the first hit to gently put a dimple in the center. If it ends up being off-center, you can lean the punch and tap it again to "move" the hole more towards the center. Once you have a nicely centered dimple, you can punch it harder to get a deeper crater. If for whatever reason you can't get a good centered center-punch dimple/crater in the middle, you can use a very small carbide Dremel Router Bit to "grind" a dimple in the middle that's good enough to center your drill bit (or at least use that to get a better center-punch crater).


Quote:
The video I watched made me concerned about breaking the extractor off in the screw. The other guys mentioned just using solder to create the bond between the screw shaft and the screw head. Obviously this doesn't sound ideal but what is your take on this. It frankly seems cheaper and easier. With less potential risk as well. That said, maybe its a better secondary option if extraction doesn't work?
I don't think you'd be successful soldering something strongly enough to that nub, but it wouldn't hurt to try that first before performing the more invasive drilling method. But that stub must be stuck pretty firmly for it to have broken off, and a small soldered joint probably would be weaker than the actual metal that sheared in the first place.

If you happen to break a drill bit or extractor bit off inside that screw stub, you may still be able to mill it out with a tiny Tungsten Carbide Dremel bit but that takes a lot more precision than when drilling it in the first place. Here's one that i've used successfully:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dremel-Tung...E&gclsrc=aw.ds



_____________________________________________

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post #48 of 53 Old 01-12-2020, 10:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post
I have an extremely steady hand, but for this precision job i'd hold the Dremel tool like a big ink pen (palm resting on the sheetmetal) then further steady the tool with my other hand as i drill the hole. I'd also wear cheater reading glasses to magnify the area a little and protect my eyes from any flying metal shavings. Drill it as if you're a dentist drilling a tiny hole in a tooth.




A left-handed drill bit might work, but the fact that your screw broke in half tells me it's stuck tightly in the threaded hole so the action of drilling a left-handed hole in the center of it probably wouldn't grab the outer portion enough to break the threads free. It would be worth a shot, but left-handed bits are pricey.

An EZ Out on the other hand exerts much more force and the spiral flutes dig into the screw. I've used larger ones to successfully extract broken exhaust manifold studs and suspension mounting bolts etc on my racecars, and smaller ones on model planes and injection molds and switch boxes in the wall and other random stuff through the past 45 years.

Whatever method you use, be super careful not to let the drill bit touch or damage the threads in the TV chassis hole. If you can get the center punch perfectly centered in that broken stub, you can use the larger extractor bit which would be preferable as it's stronger less likely to break.


Actually the drill bit would need to be a little larger than the small tip of the extractor so you can insert the extractor a little ways into the hole.

The extractor bit i linked says it has the correct drill size stamped on it. But for 5 bucks more i'd get the "Irwin/Hanson 10 PC SPIRAL SCREW EXTRACTOR AND COBALT DRILL BIT SET 11117" as it comes with all the correct corresponding drill bits (eBay item number: 114007007898)

You don't have to drill the hole too deep, just enough for the extractor bit to grab. If it doesn't grab, drill a little deeper until it does. Try not to drill all the way through - there will be some shavings so if the drill punches through the far side of the screw the shavings might get behind the panel. I'd work on this TV in the upright position, sitting on it's table stand.


Yup. Yup. Yup. Use a good sharp center punch and hold it firmly in the center before hitting it with the hammer. Tap it lightly on the first hit to gently put a dimple in the center. If it ends up being off-center, you can lean the punch and tap it again to "move" the hole more towards the center. Once you have a nicely centered dimple, you can punch it harder to get a deeper crater. If for whatever reason you can't get a good centered center-punch dimple/crater in the middle, you can use a very small carbide Dremel Router Bit to "grind" a dimple in the middle that's good enough to center your drill bit (or at least use that to get a better center-punch crater).




I don't think you'd be successful soldering something strongly enough to that nub, but it wouldn't hurt to try that first before performing the more invasive drilling method. But that stub must be stuck pretty firmly for it to have broken off, and a small soldered joint probably would be weaker than the actual metal that sheared in the first place.

If you happen to break a drill bit or extractor bit off inside that screw stub, you may still be able to mill it out with a tiny Tungsten Carbide Dremel bit but that takes a lot more precision than when drilling it in the first place. Here's one that i've used successfully:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dremel-Tung...E&gclsrc=aw.ds



_____________________________________________

Thanks for the information! If I were to try the left handed drill bit and it didn't work would I still be able to use an extractor to get the screw out or would the left handed threads prevent the extractor from working?
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post #49 of 53 Old 01-12-2020, 02:34 PM
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Thanks for the information! If I were to try the left handed drill bit and it didn't work would I still be able to use an extractor to get the screw out or would the left handed threads prevent the extractor from working?
A left-handed drill bit will drill the same kind of hole as a regular drill bit, the only real difference is the spiral flutes are reversed and you simply run the drill motor in reverse to drill your hole. You could try this first - maybe it will grab your broken screw sufficiently enough to break it loose and back it out. Make sure you centerpunch it in the very center regardless of which type of drill bit you use. You don't want the bit to eat into the TV's threads by being off-center. A larger drill size would break the screw loose easier, but you risk getting too close to the TV's threads so be careful.

If this doesn't back that screw out, you could still resort to the EZ Out method. Just be sure the drilled hole is the right size for whatever extractor bit you use.

Here's a good video that shows good technique. Notice how he first centerpunches a dimple into the screw, then uses a smaller drill bit to make starter hole which will help center the larger left-handed drill bit that you use next:



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Randy
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Last edited by RandyWalters; 01-12-2020 at 02:38 PM.
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post #50 of 53 Old 01-12-2020, 03:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post
A left-handed drill bit will drill the same kind of hole as a regular drill bit, the only real difference is the spiral flutes are reversed and you simply run the drill motor in reverse to drill your hole. You could try this first - maybe it will grab your broken screw sufficiently enough to break it loose and back it out. Make sure you centerpunch it in the very center regardless of which type of drill bit you use. You don't want the bit to eat into the TV's threads by being off-center. A larger drill size would break the screw loose easier, but you risk getting too close to the TV's threads so be careful.

If this doesn't back that screw out, you could still resort to the EZ Out method. Just be sure the drilled hole is the right size for whatever extractor bit you use.

Here's a good video that shows good technique. Notice how he first centerpunches a dimple into the screw, then uses a smaller drill bit to make starter hole which will help center the larger left-handed drill bit that you use next:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYvaPbX1sT4


____________________________________

Hey that was the same video I watched that gave me the idea!


So I went to Lowes and picked up the smallest bit of that Irwin extractor kit for like 5 bucks and a punch for 6 bucks. Nice that they sold it separately.


The dremel I borrowed didn't have a chuck small enough to grab the drill it so I used a normal drill.



There was already a divit in the shaft slight off center so I had to try punching it a few times but feel like I got it. I then proceeded to drill and was pretty in the center. The drill bit itself is BARELY any smaller than the screw shaft. So what happened is instead of drilling all the way through the screw it ended up punching the shaft back into that cavity since this particular screw was for that part that juts out from the TV. Using a flashlight it looks hollow and there is a white plastic looking barrier between the metal back panel and the screw hole it appears. So I assume the remainder of the screw shaft is back in that divot. I am doubting this matters but curious to know your thoughts? I can't imagine anyway to get it out without taking that entire metal back panel off which seems like way to much effort.

I did screw a screw in and IF I damaged the threads at all they still appear to be solid enough for a screw to screw in...The section of threading is very small though in terms of that metal back panels thickness. Interestingly, The screws I bought from shopjimmytv are longer than the ones the TV came with. I tested one in another hole and I don't think it will be a problem. Unless you think that loose screw shaft sitting in that divot will cause any problems I am going to reassemble the TV and hope for the best.
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post #51 of 53 Old 01-13-2020, 06:19 PM - Thread Starter
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I reinstalled the board and turned the TV on. Seems to be working fine. However, the board does make that buzzing sound. Is this to be expected no matter what?
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post #52 of 53 Old 01-15-2020, 07:12 AM
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Great to hear it's working!
As for the buzzing, hopefully it will decrease. Almost every time i've replaced a board or just tightened down boards there would be a slight increase buzz, but eventually would go away.

Once i bought a used Panasonic plasma that was very quiet at the original owners home. But by the time i drove it across town and brought it in and started it up, it was buzzing loudly. I was bummed out thinking i'd damaged something while moving, but then like magic the set was quiet again. Strange.

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post #53 of 53 Old 01-15-2020, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sealteamz6 View Post
I reinstalled the board and turned the TV on. Seems to be working fine. However, the board does make that buzzing sound. Is this to be expected no matter what?
Great job! A slight buzz is normal. If you can here from like 10ft away then I'd be concerned.
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