Panasonic ST60 Died. Can it be repaired? - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 53 Old 12-21-2019, 02:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Panasonic ST60 Died. Can it be repaired?

My 2013 Panasonic Plasma ST60 seems to have died. I heard a pop last night while watching and the power indicator now displays 7 blinks in a row. Doing some googling it sounds like it might be able to be repaired as it may be and issue with one of the boards. I just didn't find anything specific for my TV such as parts and guides. I was wondering if anyone has any advice or can point me in the right direction?
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post #2 of 53 Old 12-21-2019, 03:20 PM
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Bummer, I but don't know. Someone here will likely weigh in on the feasibility of the repair and/or if the needed parts can be found.
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post #3 of 53 Old 12-22-2019, 02:20 PM
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Have you a read thru here or consider starting your own thread. S60 and ST60 are basically the same.
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...nasonic+plasma
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post #4 of 53 Old 12-22-2019, 03:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Test Ickles View Post
Have you a read thru here or consider starting your own thread. S60 and ST60 are basically the same.
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...nasonic+plasma

Just read through that thread. Doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me. I am just not sure which component needs to be replaced or how to figure out which component needs to be replaced.


I did however find on Panasonic's website that they have replacement parts for the TV in stock but again I am not sure how to figure out which component it is that failed.


I pulled the back panel off and I didn't see any blown capacitors nor did I see any signs on any of the boards of anything being wrong so yeah not sure how to determine which board is dead.


If there is any easy way for me to determine which board needs to be replaced I can do that but I don't think I have the tools or knowledge to really measure voltages and all those things they are talking about in that thread to diagnosis a problem.

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post #5 of 53 Old 12-22-2019, 09:14 PM
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The first post has the technical guide. Slide 66 gives you the most likely boards. Slide 76 to 79 show you how to find out for sure.
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=65784
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post #6 of 53 Old 12-23-2019, 12:39 PM
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Just look up the service manual and then look the blink codes. It will normally tell you the most likely cause.
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post #7 of 53 Old 12-23-2019, 06:02 PM
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Easier said than found. That's why I posted it
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post #8 of 53 Old 12-23-2019, 07:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Test Ickles View Post
The first post has the technical guide. Slide 66 gives you the most likely boards. Slide 76 to 79 show you how to find out for sure.
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=65784

Thank you! This helped. I followed the diagram to the point where I need a multi meter which I will be borrowing from my dad tomorrow. Need to do the "troubleshooting 7 blinks failure (VFO/VF5V Resistance check)" part next. Sounds like it is either the SU, SD, or SC board.


If I have to replace the SC board I am unsure whether or not it is worth repairing the TV. The price of the SC board is $213 after I return the defective board. Not sure if I will have to pay sales tax from the Panasonic site being I am in WA and whatever shipping costs. Figuring final cost to replace the SC board would be about $250 but not more than $300.


The SU/SD boards are like $80 to replace each. So that would probably be worth repairing the TV.


Sigh now that I have been turned onto the idea of getting a new TV it sure is tempting but I am not sure I would want to drop $1800-$2000 on an OLED if I can have my current TV back and put up with that for another couple years at least. I wonder how much my ST60 would sell for.


I am somewhat concerned of the issue reoccurring were I to replace the board. I am not sure what caused the issue or how I can prevent it happening again.

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post #9 of 53 Old 12-24-2019, 04:55 AM
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https://www.ptselectronicsinc.com/


I think you can send in any of your boards and they can test them and only fix what's needed. You can also buy them there.

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post #10 of 53 Old 12-24-2019, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sealteamz6 View Post
f I have to replace the SC board I am unsure whether or not it is worth repairing the TV. The price of the SC board is $213 after I return the defective board. Not sure if I will have to pay sales tax from the Panasonic site being I am in WA and whatever shipping costs. Figuring final cost to replace the SC board would be about $250 but not more than $300. The SU/SD boards are like $80 to replace each. So that would probably be worth repairing the TV.
I'm surprised that Panasonic has the boards available at all. Soon after they stopped making Plasmas their supply of boards dried up (in 2014). BTW Panasonic Parts Dept boards are not new, they're factory refurbished.

But i would not buy a replacement board from Panasonic or anywhere else, you should consider having yours tested and repaired instead.

Here's my post with a list of Board Repair companies that AVSers have used, and there's good info in that thread too. With some companies you can send all the boards in and they'll test em, and repair just the one(s) that need it.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-p...l#post56362988



Quote:
I am somewhat concerned of the issue reoccurring were I to replace the board. I am not sure what caused the issue or how I can prevent it happening again.
One thing that seems to cause board failure is loose board mounting screws. If you're TV buzzes and gets even louder on bright scenes, that's an indication that some screws are loose. After 7 years of virtually silent running, my 50GT50 started buzzing slightly here and there about 8 months ago, then one day it suddenly started buzzing so loud it was unwatchable. Knowing that loose screws cause buzzing, i removed the back and the SC board was the one making the noise. I checked the screws and sure enough they were quite loose. I snugged them down and the buzzing stopped. I then tightened every other screw i could find and a lot of them were loose. The TV was now silent again and is still silent today (it's on for 2-3 hours every night).

My co-worker has a 60ST30 that suddenly started buzzing loudly right before the warranty expired but he procrastinated for a few weeks until i urged him to call for service. Panasonic sent a technician who first tightened the SC board screws (they were loose) but that didn't fully quiet the buzzing, so he installed a new board from his van and the TV was silent once again (still silent today too). He told him that loose screws will stress the board and cause failure. He also replaced all the screws with the updated ones that don't come loose over time. I think Shop Jimmy still sells this kit (there's like 20 screws in the packet).

I've read many other similar stories from AVSers over the years so there's something to this loose screw thing.


Here's my post with a list of Board Repair companies that AVSers have used, and there's good info in that thread too:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-p...l#post56362988


Quote:
Sigh now that I have been turned onto the idea of getting a new TV it sure is tempting but I am not sure I would want to drop $1800-$2000 on an OLED if I can have my current TV back and put up with that for another couple years at least. I wonder how much my ST60 would sell for.
If it's a 60" or 65" you might get $300-$400 from an informed Plasma enthusiast if it's in good shape and working properly.

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post #11 of 53 Old 12-25-2019, 10:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post
I'm surprised that Panasonic has the boards available at all. Soon after they stopped making Plasmas their supply of boards dried up (in 2014). BTW Panasonic Parts Dept boards are not new, they're factory refurbished.

But i would not buy a replacement board from Panasonic or anywhere else, you should consider having yours tested and repaired instead.

Here's my post with a list of Board Repair companies that AVSers have used, and there's good info in that thread too. With some companies you can send all the boards in and they'll test em, and repair just the one(s) that need it.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-p...l#post56362988





One thing that seems to cause board failure is loose board mounting screws. If you're TV buzzes and gets even louder on bright scenes, that's an indication that some screws are loose. After 7 years of virtually silent running, my 50GT50 started buzzing slightly here and there about 8 months ago, then one day it suddenly started buzzing so loud it was unwatchable. Knowing that loose screws cause buzzing, i removed the back and the SC board was the one making the noise. I checked the screws and sure enough they were quite loose. I snugged them down and the buzzing stopped. I then tightened every other screw i could find and a lot of them were loose. The TV was now silent again and is still silent today (it's on for 2-3 hours every night).

My co-worker has a 60ST30 that suddenly started buzzing loudly right before the warranty expired but he procrastinated for a few weeks until i urged him to call for service. Panasonic sent a technician who first tightened the SC board screws (they were loose) but that didn't fully quiet the buzzing, so he installed a new board from his van and the TV was silent once again (still silent today too). He told him that loose screws will stress the board and cause failure. He also replaced all the screws with the updated ones that don't come loose over time. I think Shop Jimmy still sells this kit (there's like 20 screws in the packet).

I've read many other similar stories from AVSers over the years so there's something to this loose screw thing.


Here's my post with a list of Board Repair companies that AVSers have used, and there's good info in that thread too:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-p...l#post56362988




If it's a 60" or 65" you might get $300-$400 from an informed Plasma enthusiast if it's in good shape and working properly.

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Maybe a lot of people started inquiring about the boards but yeah I am also surprised they still have them available.


Why do you suggest having the faulty board replaced versus buying a new one? Just due to lower cost?



I don't recall my TV buzzing. At least not on any level that was noticeable. Even right before it died. That said I have HT speakers and generally don't have the volume low. I have read the stories about the loose screw but I don't know what people mean when they say loose screws. My idea of a loose screen might be different than what is considered loose in the case of these TVs. I just used a screw driver and was able to tighten the screw a tiny bit. However the TV is facedown and I was putting force with my hand on the back of the screw driver to actually make the screws tighten.
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post #13 of 53 Old 12-25-2019, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by sealteamz6 View Post

Looks like the tests have taken you to a bad SC?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TXNSS1UDUUT...QAAOSwtutcGHAF

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post #14 of 53 Old 12-25-2019, 12:06 PM
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I would probably go with this. You send in the SC and buffers and they test and fix anything wrong. When you reinstall put blue locktite on the screws.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mail-in-Rep...8AAOSw3Bla5k89
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post #15 of 53 Old 12-25-2019, 12:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Test Ickles View Post
Looks like the tests have taken you to a bad SC?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TXNSS1UDUUT...QAAOSwtutcGHAF

I am not sure actually. The flow diagram where it says "Does the TV shut down with 7 blinks" doesn't make sense to me. I unscrewed the screws, unpluged the connectors, jumped the connector (idk if I actually did this right, I just used a screw driver to touch the two pins together) and plugged in the TV and would just get a continuous 7 blinks. Which leads me to believe I need to replace the SU/SD boards? Like I said though I am not positive I have done everything correctly. Especially since I didn't notice any shorts when testing the ribbon connector pins for shorts.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Test Ickles View Post
I would probably go with this. You send in the SC and buffers and they test and fix anything wrong. When you reinstall put blue locktite on the screws.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mail-in-Rep...8AAOSw3Bla5k89

Yeah I wouldn't be opposed to a repair service. Why use one of those though when that replacement board you linked to is cheaper?

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post #16 of 53 Old 12-26-2019, 02:28 PM
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Yeah I wouldn't be opposed to a repair service. Why use one of those though when a replacement board is cheaper?

The best thing, would be to have all 3 boards tested. Because a faulty SD/SU board could blow up your new SC board. I have a friend that repairs these, and thats exactly what happened to him.

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Yeah I wouldn't be opposed to a repair service. Why use one of those though when a replacement board is cheaper?

The best thing, would be to have all 3 boards tested. Because a faulty SD/SU board could blow up your new SC board. I have a friend that repairs these, and thats exactly what happened to him.

Yeah that is a really good point. Something I was concerned about already. I did test the SU/SD board pins for the ribbon connectors for shorts and didn't come up with any.


If I have to send in all three boards for testing/repair that might cost enough to make me question whether or not its actually worth repairing the TV. I would imagine it would be about 200-300 at that point. Part of me is tempted to buy that 45 dollar board on ebay and throw it in and see if that works.
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post #18 of 53 Old 12-26-2019, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by sealteamz6 View Post
Yeah that is a really good point. Something I was concerned about already. I did test the SU/SD board pins for the ribbon connectors for shorts and didn't come up with any.


If I have to send in all three boards for testing/repair that might cost enough to make me question whether or not its actually worth repairing the TV. I would imagine it would be about 200-300 at that point. Part of me is tempted to buy that 45 dollar board on ebay and throw it in and see if that works.
My thought on that is if you wanna upgrade, upgrade. However don't kid yourself or pretend that you can find a tv even a fraction as good as this for under $400. Its still more cost effective to repair this.
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post #19 of 53 Old 12-26-2019, 03:54 PM - Thread Starter
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My thought on that is if you wanna upgrade, upgrade. However don't kid yourself or pretend that you can find a tv even a fraction as good as this for under $400. Its still more cost effective to repair this.

Yeah you are absolutely right. If I were to upgrade it would probably be the to 65 inch LG C9 for about $1950. Repairing is definitely much cheaper. Especially as this TV is arguably good enough still.
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post #20 of 53 Old 12-26-2019, 03:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Based on my badcaps post it seems like its the SC board so I will likely order that board off eBay and some screws or try to get help doing the repair myself.
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"Part of me is tempted to buy that 45 dollar board on ebay and throw it in and see if that works."

Ya, for 45 i'd take that gamble too, I actually did take that gamble and it worked out for me. After the fact, I found out that i should have had all 3 boards tested. My SC board was around 200 at the time. Your ST60 is a highly rated plasma, and still looks pretty modern I'd definitely try to fix it. When you upgrade to OLED, you'll have a nice secondary TV.

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post #22 of 53 Old 12-26-2019, 04:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jst333 View Post
"Part of me is tempted to buy that 45 dollar board on ebay and throw it in and see if that works."

Ya, for 45 i'd take that gamble too, I actually did take that gamble and it worked out for me. After the fact, I found out that i should have had all 3 boards tested. My SC board was around 200 at the time. Your ST60 is a highly rated plasma, and still looks pretty modern I'd definitely try to fix it. When you upgrade to OLED, you'll have a nice secondary TV.

Yeah makes sense!


I don't know if I will have all the boards tested or not though. According to my badcaps post it seems like it was due to loosening screws. I did test the SU board and there was no short and I tested the pins for the ribbon connectors on both the SU and SD boards and those were fine as well.


I am definitely gonna fix it as soon as possible that way I at least have a working TV and then if and when I decide to upgrade there is no rush to do so. Plus I am kind of interested in seeing where this tech for the UST laser projectors goes as that sounds like an intriguing option instead of a new TV when I decide to upgrade.
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If you buy the replacement SC make sure it is the exact board your replacing. Some are listed as AB at the end and some don't have the AB. Match up any other numbers they give you as well. Same model TV doesn't always equal same board. As for sending in all three, this will only cost $89. It's all in the service and will give you the highest probability of success. They test the board working before they send it back. Since your tests have pointed to SC and your buffer board test yielded no shorts I'm pretty sure it's the SC. A little blue lock tite on the screws and you'll be good for a long time. I had a GT30's SC repair and I skimped on the lock tite and it went out again when the screws came loose. Had to have it fixed again.
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post #24 of 53 Old 12-28-2019, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sealteamz6 View Post
I don't recall my TV buzzing. At least not on any level that was noticeable. Even right before it died. That said I have HT speakers and generally don't have the volume low. I have read the stories about the loose screw but I don't know what people mean when they say loose screws. My idea of a loose screen might be different than what is considered loose in the case of these TVs. I just used a screw driver and was able to tighten the screw a tiny bit. However the TV is facedown and I was putting force with my hand on the back of the screw driver to actually make the screws tighten.
My "loose" screws on my severely buzzing SC board only needed 1/4 turn to fully snug them down (i normally would not consider that to be "loose"), so it's amazing to me that that's all it took to completely quiet that buzzsaw of a board. BTW this TV is still silent 8 months later and we use it every day. I'm glad i caught it in time before it could blow my board.

Also if it would make it easier for you to diagnose and remove boards and test, virtually every Panasonic Plasma TV is serviceable/repairable with it sitting upright on the table stand. You don't have to lay it face down to remove the rear cover.


I posted about my GT50 SC board screw tightening in a buzzing thread:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-p...l#post57976260


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post #25 of 53 Old 12-30-2019, 01:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Test Ickles View Post
If you buy the replacement SC make sure it is the exact board your replacing. Some are listed as AB at the end and some don't have the AB. Match up any other numbers they give you as well. Same model TV doesn't always equal same board. As for sending in all three, this will only cost $89. It's all in the service and will give you the highest probability of success. They test the board working before they send it back. Since your tests have pointed to SC and your buffer board test yielded no shorts I'm pretty sure it's the SC. A little blue lock tite on the screws and you'll be good for a long time. I had a GT30's SC repair and I skimped on the lock tite and it went out again when the screws came loose. Had to have it fixed again.

I already ordered it so I will have to double check when it arrives. I am probably still gonna try to repair mine with the help of the badcaps guys. I don't think the model numbers align perfectly though.


Yeah I will definitely do the loctite.


I reached out to the PTSElectronicsinc and they said they don't have the setup to fix it. I can always try the eBay repair guy as well.
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post #26 of 53 Old 12-30-2019, 01:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post
My "loose" screws on my severely buzzing SC board only needed 1/4 turn to fully snug them down (i normally would not consider that to be "loose"), so it's amazing to me that that's all it took to completely quiet that buzzsaw of a board. BTW this TV is still silent 8 months later and we use it every day. I'm glad i caught it in time before it could blow my board.

Also if it would make it easier for you to diagnose and remove boards and test, virtually every Panasonic Plasma TV is serviceable/repairable with it sitting upright on the table stand. You don't have to lay it face down to remove the rear cover.


I posted about my GT50 SC board screw tightening in a buzzing thread:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-p...l#post57976260


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Oh wow, that's awesome you were able to catch it! Yeah I moved the TV to my room and stood it up to work on it. The TV is kind of loose on the stand though so laying it down kind of helped actually.
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post #27 of 53 Old 12-31-2019, 09:11 AM - Thread Starter
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If you buy the replacement SC make sure it is the exact board your replacing. Some are listed as AB at the end and some don't have the AB. Match up any other numbers they give you as well. Same model TV doesn't always equal same board. As for sending in all three, this will only cost $89. It's all in the service and will give you the highest probability of success. They test the board working before they send it back. Since your tests have pointed to SC and your buffer board test yielded no shorts I'm pretty sure it's the SC. A little blue lock tite on the screws and you'll be good for a long time. I had a GT30's SC repair and I skimped on the lock tite and it went out again when the screws came loose. Had to have it fixed again.

So as you can see the new board I got on the bottom does appear to be slightly different. The sticker on the new one I got is AD on the top right of the sticker and mine is AB.



Not sure if this matters? Is it safe to try the board and see if it will work or is there risk of damage to the TV?
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post #28 of 53 Old 01-01-2020, 08:09 AM
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So as you can see the new board I got on the bottom does appear to be slightly different. The sticker on the new one I got is AD on the top right of the sticker and mine is AB.



Not sure if this matters? Is it safe to try the board and see if it will work or is there risk of damage to the TV?
I'm just guessing but I think it would either work or it would continue to blink an error code. I don't think it would damage anything. Again just guessing. See what the badcap guys think.
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post #29 of 53 Old 01-04-2020, 03:38 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm just guessing but I think it would either work or it would continue to blink an error code. I don't think it would damage anything. Again just guessing. See what the badcap guys think.

I put it in and it works fine. Got some loctite so got to take it apart and apply that stuff now.
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post #30 of 53 Old 01-04-2020, 06:28 PM
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I put it in and it works fine. Got some loctite so got to take it apart and apply that stuff now.
Great job!
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