Yamaha A-S801 Integrated Amplifier Official AVSForum Review - Page 11 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #301 of 327 Old 04-05-2019, 11:05 PM
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I posted the schematic of the power amp of A-S801, it is cheap. Showing one pair of output transistors in the schematic. But the assembly drawing shows two pairs. But still nothing to write home. Might have all the bells and whistles, but the most important part....the power amp is not so good. I just never impressed with Yamaha, even the much more expensive AS1100.
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Own designed power amp, own designed preamp, JM LAB Spectral 913.1 speakers, Rythmik F12SE sub.
Not hooked up: Nakamichi Stasis PA-7 power amp, Velodyne VA1210 sub, Kef Reference Series center, Kef Bookshelf speaker, Monitor Audio bookshelf speaker, Infinity rear speakers. Acurus 3X200W amp.

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post #302 of 327 Old 04-06-2019, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by alan0354 View Post
I posted the schematic of the power amp of A-S801, it is cheap. Showing one pair of output transistors in the schematic. But the assembly drawing shows two pairs. But still nothing to write home. Might have all the bells and whistles, but the most important part....the power amp is not so good. I just never impressed with Yamaha, even the much more expensive AS1100.
In 2017 I auditioned a Yamaha A-S1100 for about three weeks in my music room. It could not match nor outperform the sonics of my McIntosh integrated amplifier, particularly in the areas of soundstaging plus midrange and treble smoothness and clarity, so it went back to the dealer. But the Yamaha drove my AR9 floorstanding speakers (4 ohms), each of which has two 12-inch bass drivers, very easily and effortlessly at volume levels much louder than I would tolerate in normal use. The bass was tight, deep, and detailed. In actual use in my experience, Alan, the drive capability of the Yamaha A-S1100's power amp is very good indeed.

Music room: Cary SLI-80 tube integrated amplifier, McIntosh MA6500 integrated amplifier, Quad 99 preamp, Quad 909 power amp, Acoustic Research AR9 loudspeakers, Yamaha CD-N500 CD player, Teac UD-503 DSD DAC, Phase Linear 8000II linear-tracking turntable.
Theater room: Panasonic 65S60 plasma television; Yamaha RX-A2020 (preamp section); Adcom GFA-5503 and GFA-5400 amplifiers; Polk LSi25, LSiC, and LSiF/X loudspeaker system; Velodyne FSR-18 servo-subwoofer.
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post #303 of 327 Old 04-06-2019, 09:36 PM
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In 2017 I auditioned a Yamaha A-S1100 for about three weeks in my music room. It could not match nor outperform the sonics of my McIntosh integrated amplifier, particularly in the areas of soundstaging plus midrange and treble smoothness and clarity, so it went back to the dealer. But the Yamaha drove my AR9 floorstanding speakers (4 ohms), each of which has two 12-inch bass drivers, very easily and effortlessly at volume levels much louder than I would tolerate in normal use. The bass was tight, deep, and detailed. In actual use in my experience, Alan, the drive capability of the Yamaha A-S1100's power amp is very good indeed.
The sentence you highlighted was referred to AS801, not 1100.



Oh yeh, AS1100 has 6 pairs of output transistors, it can drive. I am talking about the way the circuit design. Like you said, it doesn't sound that good. It ain't cheap, for the kind of money They can do better. I like the design of say Adcom 565, 5800, 5500 much better. Also, the Parasound A21 to name a few.


AS801 cannot drive, not with two pairs and tiny heatsink.

Own designed power amp, own designed preamp, JM LAB Spectral 913.1 speakers, Rythmik F12SE sub.
Not hooked up: Nakamichi Stasis PA-7 power amp, Velodyne VA1210 sub, Kef Reference Series center, Kef Bookshelf speaker, Monitor Audio bookshelf speaker, Infinity rear speakers. Acurus 3X200W amp.

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post #304 of 327 Old 04-06-2019, 10:38 PM
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The sentence you highlighted was referred to AS801, not 1100.
You are right--my error.

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Oh yeh, AS1100 has 6 pairs of output transistors, it can drive. I am talking about the way the circuit design. Like you said, it doesn't sound that good. It ain't cheap, for the kind of money They can do better. I like the design of say Adcom 565, 5800, 5500 much better. Also, the Parasound A21 to name a few.

AS801 cannot drive, not with two pairs and tiny heatsink.
I was not trying to say the Yamaha A-S1100 does not sound good. It does sound fine. It is a very nice integrated with unusually fine build quality. Its construction reminded me of a Swiss wristwatch. But it was outperformed sonically by a McIntosh MA6500.

Music room: Cary SLI-80 tube integrated amplifier, McIntosh MA6500 integrated amplifier, Quad 99 preamp, Quad 909 power amp, Acoustic Research AR9 loudspeakers, Yamaha CD-N500 CD player, Teac UD-503 DSD DAC, Phase Linear 8000II linear-tracking turntable.
Theater room: Panasonic 65S60 plasma television; Yamaha RX-A2020 (preamp section); Adcom GFA-5503 and GFA-5400 amplifiers; Polk LSi25, LSiC, and LSiF/X loudspeaker system; Velodyne FSR-18 servo-subwoofer.
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post #305 of 327 Old 04-06-2019, 11:33 PM
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You are right--my error.


I was not trying to say the Yamaha A-S1100 does not sound good. It does sound fine. It is a very nice integrated with unusually fine build quality. Its construction reminded me of a Swiss wristwatch. But it was outperformed sonically by a McIntosh MA6500.
I just notice you have the Adcom, I don't know your model, I bet the GFA565 and the 5800 should sound better than the Yamaha 1100. To me, they are just better designed. For $2500, it better sounds fine, just it can be better. Adcom uses some mighty good amp designers for their amps, if I were to buy an amp for use, the GFA565 will be one of my top choice even though it's not that expensive.

I always believe in buying the lower models of the top brand than to buy the top model of an average brand. Knowledge do trickle down to the lower model as those people have the knowhow and the pride to keep even the lower model up to par. I have no question your McIntosh out class the best of Yamaha. Hey, 6 pairs of output transistor is NOT a whole lot of transistors. My Nakamichi PA-7 has 7 pairs and the output stage is some what similar to the 1100, it's a very old design even though Threshold made Nelson Pass. The output stage is a version of what we called CFP ( complementary feedback pair). Very few people use that anymore as the frequency response is much lower. The PA-7 sounds "fine" like you said, but it's sitting in the garage for over a year only to be brought in once in a blue moon for amplifier test so I can say I have a reputable power amp as a reference......Hey it's the famous Threshold amp designed by Nelson Pass.

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post #306 of 327 Old 04-07-2019, 06:01 PM
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I just notice you have the Adcom, I don't know your model, I bet the GFA565 and the 5800 should sound better than the Yamaha 1100. To me, they are just better designed. For $2500, it better sounds fine, just it can be better. Adcom uses some mighty good amp designers for their amps, if I were to buy an amp for use, the GFA565 will be one of my top choice even though it's not that expensive.
I use an Adcom GFA-5503 for the front channels in our theater room system (it is listed below). The 5503 is the three-channel version of the 5500. It is an excellent power amp--smooth, detailed, neutral to maybe a bit warm, and very powerful (200 watts/channel at 8 ohms and 350 watts/channel with our 4-ohm front loudspeakers.

The Adcom has never been installed in our music room, so I cannot say how it compares with any of the amplifiers (listed below) in that system or how it would have fared sonically against the power amp section of the Yamaha A-S1100.

I have no doubt that if I were shopping today for an integrated amplifier in the Yamaha's price range ($2500), the A-S1100 would be on my short list. It is a very nice component sound-wise and offers exceptional build quality. An added bonus is that its appearance is very elegant. Everyone who saw the A-S1100 commented on how nice it looked.

One aspect that I liked a great deal where many competitors fall short is that the 1100 is nonfatiguing sonically. It is easy to listen to for extended periods. An aspect that annoyed me was the remote control of the volume--it was either a bit too loud or not quite loud enough. It was usually impossible to get the volume just where I desired it unless I used the volume knob on the front panel. Maybe teaching the codes to a universal remote that transmitted at a slower pace would alleviate that problem (I've had this occur by accident with the fast-forward and reverse scan speeds of video players).

You may not think so at present, but you might like the Yamaha A-S1100 if you auditioned one.

Time to go.

Music room: Cary SLI-80 tube integrated amplifier, McIntosh MA6500 integrated amplifier, Quad 99 preamp, Quad 909 power amp, Acoustic Research AR9 loudspeakers, Yamaha CD-N500 CD player, Teac UD-503 DSD DAC, Phase Linear 8000II linear-tracking turntable.
Theater room: Panasonic 65S60 plasma television; Yamaha RX-A2020 (preamp section); Adcom GFA-5503 and GFA-5400 amplifiers; Polk LSi25, LSiC, and LSiF/X loudspeaker system; Velodyne FSR-18 servo-subwoofer.
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post #307 of 327 Old 04-07-2019, 07:11 PM
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.................

You may not think so at present, but you might like the Yamaha A-S1100 if you auditioned one.

I have quite a few that I am interested to try, this is just not one of them based on the design and the construction. I don't just look at how nice it looks, the heat sink is too small also, so it's not a very high biased class AB. I am sure any amp can surprise me, but with inferior design and construction, chances are it's not going to.



If I were to buy any amp, a used Pass Lab Aleph, Krell KSA and Mark Livinson will be the ones I would take my chance. I can get those for under $2500 used.

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post #308 of 327 Old 04-09-2019, 11:36 PM
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I have quite a few that I am interested to try, this is just not one of them based on the design and the construction. I don't just look at how nice it looks, the heat sink is too small also, so it's not a very high biased class AB. I am sure any amp can surprise me, but with inferior design and construction, chances are it's not going to.



If I were to buy any amp, a used Pass Lab Aleph, Krell KSA and Mark Livinson will be the ones I would take my chance. I can get those for under $2500 used.

Got the Yamaha A-S801 for a good deal. ~$600. Not refurbished either. Should be here end of this week. I'll return it if I don't like it.



Aside from the $2500 - $5,000 amps you're listing compared to this sub $1,000 retail Yamaha amp thread, what would be some better amps for about the $600 - 800 range?
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post #309 of 327 Old 04-10-2019, 12:10 AM
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Got the Yamaha A-S801 for a good deal. ~$600. Not refurbished either. Should be here end of this week. I'll return it if I don't like it.



Aside from the $2500 - $5,000 amps you're listing compared to this sub $1,000 retail Yamaha amp thread, what would be some better amps for about the $600 - 800 range?
For $600, it's a good deal. Everything has a price. $900 is not, $600, yes.

Own designed power amp, own designed preamp, JM LAB Spectral 913.1 speakers, Rythmik F12SE sub.
Not hooked up: Nakamichi Stasis PA-7 power amp, Velodyne VA1210 sub, Kef Reference Series center, Kef Bookshelf speaker, Monitor Audio bookshelf speaker, Infinity rear speakers. Acurus 3X200W amp.
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post #310 of 327 Old 04-10-2019, 01:36 AM
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Got the Yamaha A-S801 for a good deal. ~$600. Not refurbished either. Should be here end of this week. I'll return it if I don't like it.



Aside from the $2500 - $5,000 amps you're listing compared to this sub $1,000 retail Yamaha amp thread, what would be some better amps for about the $600 - 800 range?
In your price range, the a-S801 would be my choice. Google it for reviews. Audioholics, 6moons audio, and others all give it darn good reviews.

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post #311 of 327 Old 04-10-2019, 01:39 AM
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For $600, it's a good deal. Everything has a price. $900 is not, $600, yes.
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In your price range, the a-S801 would be my choice. Google it for reviews. Audioholics, 6moons audio, and others all give it darn good reviews.

Alright, cool. I guess my next step up would be separates adding to the $2 - 3kish range at some point..
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post #312 of 327 Old 04-10-2019, 11:25 AM
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I posted the schematic of the power amp of A-S801, it is cheap. Showing one pair of output transistors in the schematic. But the assembly drawing shows two pairs. But still nothing to write home. Might have all the bells and whistles, but the most important part....the power amp is not so good. I just never impressed with Yamaha, even the much more expensive AS1100.
Given you lack of observational skills, I'm not sure how much credibility I can give to your statements.

Just to the left of the upper Power Transistor (Q123C) you circled is another identical Power Transistor (Q121C), both marked A1694/C4467. On the lower section of the diagram the transistor you circled (Q123A) is flanked to the left by another transistor (Q121A) both labeled A1684/C4467.

It has 4 Power Transistors.

Given that the all have the same part numbers, I have to assume they come in matched pairs.

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post #313 of 327 Old 04-10-2019, 01:11 PM
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Given you lack of observational skills, I'm not sure how much credibility I can give to your statements.

Just to the left of the upper Power Transistor (Q123C) you circled is another identical Power Transistor (Q121C), both marked A1694/C4467. On the lower section of the diagram the transistor you circled (Q123A) is flanked to the left by another transistor (Q121A) both labeled A1684/C4467.

It has 4 Power Transistors.

Given that the all have the same part numbers, I have to assume they come in matched pairs.

Steve/bluewizard

I did say it looked to have two pair, did you read it? Don't just look at the circle on the schematic, I posted the picture.

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post #314 of 327 Old 04-11-2019, 12:55 AM
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I did say it looked to have two pair, did you read it? Don't just look at the circle on the schematic, I posted the picture.
No you didn't, you said this -

"Showing one pair of output transistors in the schematic. But the assembly drawing shows two pairs."

I don't see any ands, ifs, buts, maybes, or 'looked to have' in that statement.

Still, hardly worth a fuss, just correcting the statement. It does have FOUR Power Transistors.

As to being 'cheap' I guess that depends on how you define 'cheap'.

Are Yamaha the best amps made, perhaps not, but they are consistently exceptionally high value? You can always pay more and get less, that is your personal choice to make. And for those how have the budget, that is not necessarily a bad choice. But for those with lean budgets, who want to maximize their money, Yamaha is a good choice.

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post #315 of 327 Old 04-11-2019, 09:10 AM
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Got the Yamaha A-S801 for a good deal. ~$600. Not refurbished either. Should be here end of this week. I'll return it if I don't like it.
If you bought it gray market from ebay or something, then no...$600 is not a good deal. There are a lot of new Yamaha's on ebay that won't be warranted by Yamaha. Buyer beware.



Quote:
Aside from the $2500 - $5,000 amps you're listing compared to this sub $1,000 retail Yamaha amp thread, what would be some better amps for about the $600 - 800 range?
For the setup that you want, there are plenty of sub $1000 AVR's that would do 2-channel audio just as good without having to go through the patchwork setup that you suggested earlier.
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post #316 of 327 Old 04-11-2019, 09:12 AM
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No you didn't, you said this -

"Showing one pair of output transistors in the schematic. But the assembly drawing shows two pairs."

I don't see any ands, ifs, buts, maybes, or 'looked to have' in that statement.

Still, hardly worth a fuss, just correcting the statement. It does have FOUR Power Transistors.

As to being 'cheap' I guess that depends on how you define 'cheap'.

Are Yamaha the best amps made, perhaps not, but they are consistently exceptionally high value? You can always pay more and get less, that is your personal choice to make. And for those how have the budget, that is not necessarily a bad choice. But for those with lean budgets, who want to maximize their money, Yamaha is a good choice.

Steve/bluewizard
No, I looked at a few schematics of Onkyo that make just as low priced amps, they seem to have better design. In fact, I never criticized Onkyo.


You know, two pairs of output transistors is NOTHING to write home. I might read the schematic wrong, BUT I did posted the picture showing 2 pairs of output transistor and mentioned it.

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Not hooked up: Nakamichi Stasis PA-7 power amp, Velodyne VA1210 sub, Kef Reference Series center, Kef Bookshelf speaker, Monitor Audio bookshelf speaker, Infinity rear speakers. Acurus 3X200W amp.
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If you bought it gray market from ebay or something, then no...$600 is not a good deal. There are a lot of new Yamaha's on ebay that won't be warranted by Yamaha. Buyer beware.





For the setup that you want, there are plenty of sub $1000 AVR's that would do 2-channel audio just as good without having to go through the patchwork setup that you suggested earlier.

I got it new with warranty from a legit store. I heard a few AVRs at Magnolia recently and the ones retailing for about $1k just did not sound good. They were paired with B&W 702 S2 speakers. Also listened to the ELAC Debut 2.0 floorstanders with them. They were Marantz, Pioneer, and even the Yamaha AVRs - all $999 retail. I know that's not a fair judgement but based on my research on multichannel AVRs vs dedicated stereo amps in the sub-$1k range, I am leaning towards a dedicated 2channel amp to drive the fronts and letting the AVR power the center. Now if I can get the Marantz stereo (or other 2 channels) with preamp outs for about the same cost then that would be a better fit for my 3.1 setup.


Send me a message on some of the AVRs you recommend and I can certainly do more research on them. I have connections to some folks that can get me big name brands for a discounted price.
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post #318 of 327 Old 04-14-2019, 02:17 AM
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I got it new with warranty from a legit store. I heard a few AVRs at Magnolia recently and the ones retailing for about $1k just did not sound good. They were paired with B&W 702 S2 speakers. Also listened to the ELAC Debut 2.0 floorstanders with them. They were Marantz, Pioneer, and even the Yamaha AVRs - all $999 retail. I know that's not a fair judgement but based on my research on multichannel AVRs vs dedicated stereo amps in the sub-$1k range, I am leaning towards a dedicated 2channel amp to drive the fronts and letting the AVR power the center. Now if I can get the Marantz stereo (or other 2 channels) with preamp outs for about the same cost then that would be a better fit for my 3.1 setup.


Send me a message on some of the AVRs you recommend and I can certainly do more research on them. I have connections to some folks that can get me big name brands for a discounted price.
The best AVR out there for 2 channel audio, imho, would be the Anthem MRX-520. 100 wpc in two channel mode and it only has 5 channels. I bought it just for that. I wanted room correction and HDMI inputs having two Oppo blu ray players, the 203 and 95. This gave it to me with not a lot of extra channels to worry about. Great sounding piece of gear, a bit pricy at 1399, but the only other option with room correction and HDMI inputs was the Lyngdorf and it was 4 grand+.

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IME, the A-S801 is a great value if you have relatively efficient speakers. Great sound, lots of features. But if you have, say, 4ohm, 85db speakers, the A-S801 won't have enough muscle to get all you can out of them. At $600, I don't think you could find better.
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post #320 of 327 Old 05-24-2019, 09:13 AM
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IME, the A-S801 is a great value if you have relatively efficient speakers. Great sound, lots of features. But if you have, say, 4ohm, 85db speakers, the A-S801 won't have enough muscle to get all you can out of them. At $600, I don't think you could find better.

It couldn't properly power my Elac Uni-Fi towers, so I'd agree with this 100%
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post #321 of 327 Old 09-21-2019, 03:32 PM
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Using the Yamaha A-S801 Integrated amp's built-in DAC on a phone connection

Hello all,

I intend to play flac files through USB from my PC and phone directly on my Yamaha A-S801 integ amp, as it has a decent quality built-in DAC and USB input (Type B).

- For PC, Yamaha supplies a driver that forces usage of the Amp's DAC and discards the PC's lousier DAC on a USB connection
- There is no supplied driver as such for android.

Hence, if i use a USB type C to Type B connection to the amp, will i be forced to use the phone's lousier DAC? How do i make the Amp's dac take over? What are my options?

Thank you,
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post #322 of 327 Old 09-21-2019, 03:35 PM
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You need an Android player app that recognizes external dacs and plays hi res audio through it. The best example is USB Audio Player Pro

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post #323 of 327 Old 09-21-2019, 04:24 PM
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You need an Android player app that recognizes external dacs and plays hi res audio through it. The best example is USB Audio Player Pro

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Thank you. Will this player pass everything untainted to the Yamaha's DAC? I would like no contamination to my 'pure direct' Yamaha experience, my friend. I want this player feel like it never was in the mix. I am counting all the electrons in the flow these days . Is it the most audiophile friendly player out there?
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post #324 of 327 Old 09-21-2019, 04:25 PM
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Yes it will and yes it is.

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post #325 of 327 Old 09-22-2019, 01:19 AM
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If the Yamaha shows up as a USB audio class device, then modern android (and iOS) devices can use it without a driver. Same goes for windows as well.

The audio path is digital all the way.
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post #326 of 327 Old 09-22-2019, 06:21 AM
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The standard Android Audio API has an issue with upscaling 44.1khz/16bit pcm files to 48khz. It does this automatically without you wanting it to and only on standard CD quality files. This causes audible noise particularly on sensitive iems. A program like USB Audio Player Pro uses its own audio path and bypasses the standard Android API to avoid this known issue.

Also, many players don't correctly handle DSD files and will convert to PCM before sending to DAC or just won't even play them at all.

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Last edited by mlknez; 09-22-2019 at 06:26 AM.
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post #327 of 327 Old 09-22-2019, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlknez View Post
The standard Android Audio API has an issue with upscaling 44.1khz/16bit pcm files to 48khz. It does this automatically without you wanting it to and only on standard CD quality files. This causes audible noise particularly on sensitive iems. A program like USB Audio Player Pro uses its own audio path and bypasses the standard Android API to avoid this known issue.

Also, many players don't correctly handle DSD files and will convert to PCM before sending to DAC or just won't even play them at all.

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Man, you're quickly becoming my favorite guy on this forum. I bought the app and ...really...thanks for providing this suggestion (best 8 bucks i spent).
Now, i don't even have to hear my damn laptops fans!
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