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post #1 of 26 Old 05-23-2019, 12:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Recommend upgrade path

I have a dedicated theater room that I also use for 2 channel listening. And I would like to make an upgrade to enhance my 2 channel listening.

My system currently consists of a Bluesound Node 2 playing FLAC and DSD files on my NAS through Roon, Marantz AV7702mkII preamp/processor, Emotiva XPA-3 Gen 3 amp and GoldenEar Triton One.R speakers. I've tried switching between the Node 2's DAC and the Marantz's and I can't really tell a difference between the two. I've considered purchasing an outboard DAC but there are so many options and the Node 2 doesn't have USB output so I would be limited to TOSLINK/SPDIF with it. I have ~$2000 budget. There are no specific problems with my system as it currently is. I am just on the eternal path of looking for better.

So, if it were your system, which route would you go towards improving the sound?
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post #2 of 26 Old 05-23-2019, 06:29 PM - Thread Starter
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What about a Mytek Brooklyn Bridge? If I'm not mistaken, that would replace my Node 2 as a Roon end point and add a superior DAC. I see one used for $2100. Is that likely to result in noticeable increase in sound quality?

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post #3 of 26 Old 05-23-2019, 10:46 PM
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You should upgrade your Preamp and Amp before your digital section IMO. You're not going to hear much difference in DACs when you put that preamp and amp after it, sorry to say!

For $2k I'd start with the best preamp you can find for that budget then upgrade the amp down the road.

Or maybe even a good integrated would be a place to start. The NAD M32 sells for around your budget used and would be a nice upgrade.
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post #4 of 26 Old 05-23-2019, 10:56 PM
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You should upgrade your Preamp and Amp before your digital section IMO. You're not going to hear much difference in DACs when you put that preamp and amp after it, sorry to say!

For $2k I'd start with the best preamp you can find for that budget then upgrade the amp down the road.

Or maybe even a good integrated would be a place to start. The NAD M32 sells for around your budget used and would be a nice upgrade.

I tend to agree, I look at the Goldenear and Emotiva, I would at least experiment with different power amps and see whether there is any improvement.

Something about the modular design of the amp that doesn't sit right with me. Those modular design is like PC where you plug in the right power amp module option!!!

I don't know preamp, so I am not commenting on that.

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post #5 of 26 Old 05-23-2019, 11:05 PM
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i could use my teac nt505 as a preamp - the dual ak4497 dac is pretty spectacular actually.

the ak4499 will be released sometime in the near future...

anyway ..

the node is decent as i once had one, but sent it on its way for this teac streaming dac.

lastly, i would suggest getting away from USB anything in your audio chain ... it sucks.

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post #6 of 26 Old 05-24-2019, 09:41 AM - Thread Starter
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So collectively neither my prepro, amp or speakers are good enough to warrant an upgrade of a DAC/streamer? I was under no illusion that my system was anywhere near top of the line but I didn't think it was low end either. Adding something like the NAD M32 should yield a noticeable difference?

If I were to add an integrated like the NAD M32 how would I go about adding that to my system and switch to and from it for movies and 2 channel listening?
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post #7 of 26 Old 05-24-2019, 10:17 AM
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No!!! Your speakers are very good. That's why I put the post. That's the one I won't change, that defines your system. I just think you should experiment with amps and preamps first. As I said, I don't know preamp, I can only talk about power amp.



There are places you can borrow amps home and test it on your system, borrow another amp and see what happens.


Remember if you find an amp that make a difference in sound, you can consider selling the Emotiva, that will fetch you $1000 or so, so now your budget is $3000. Now you can do a lot more with that. This goes with preamp also.



If you are not listening to vinyl, I really don't think preamp is that important, some people ( including me) actually use passive preamp ( just a stupid volume pot) and just use relays to switch different sources to drive the power amp. Again, I don't own vinyl ( I literally dump the turn table in the garbage can after I got my first CD player in early 90s, this is real, I actually dump it), so that's not my concern.



You can go integrated if you want. Just try it.


What make you think what you have is not good enough? I designed DAC and ADC ( not for audio), and I looked a little into DACs, there are only a handful of manufacturers that produce DAC IC, everyone is using the same few. I question all the hype of the digital frontends.

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post #8 of 26 Old 05-24-2019, 10:31 AM - Thread Starter
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No!!! Your speakers are very good. That's why I put the post. That's the one I won't change, that defines your system. I just think you should experiment with amps and preamps first. As I said, I don't know preamp, I can only talk about power amp.



There are places you can borrow amps home and test it on your system, borrow another amp and see what happens.


Remember if you find an amp that make a difference in sound, you can consider selling the Emotiva, that will fetch you $1000 or so, so now your budget is $3000. Now you can do a lot more with that. This goes with preamp also.



If you are not listening to vinyl, I really don't think preamp is that important, some people ( including me) actually use passive preamp ( just a stupid volume pot) and just use relays to switch different sources to drive the power amp. Again, I don't own vinyl ( I literally dump the turn table in the garbage can after I got my first CD player in early 90s, this is real, I actually dump it), so that's not my concern.



You can go integrated if you want. Just try it.


What make you think what you have is not good enough? I designed DAC and ADC ( not for audio), and I looked a little into DACs, there are only a handful of manufacturers that produce DAC IC, everyone is using the same few. I question all the hype of the digital frontends.
Sorry, I misunderstood your post regarding the speakers. I was surprised as everything I've read about them raves. I don't do vinyl at all and all my music goes through my Node 2. I was considering a DAC because I was assuming that was the weakest link in my system. I love my speakers and I thought the Emotiva amp was "good bang for the buck" audiophile level. That left the the Marantz and the Node and I assumed the most likely weak spot in either would be the DAC. I read a lot about people changing DACs and hearing improvement in sound so it seemed like the next logical choice.

I can't see how I can easily add a preamp or integrated into my system. I still need the Marantz (or equivalent) to handle the theater audio and I don't want to have to manually swap speaker wires when switching between theater and 2 channel listening.
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post #9 of 26 Old 05-24-2019, 11:00 AM
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I am not familiar with all the streaming and all, my system is all analog. You really have to try them out and see what gets you the biggest bang. Your speakers are definitely the best part of the system. I am in the market of a pair of speakers, I have Goldenear as one to check out.


My issue with the Emotiva is it's like A-La-Cart. You plug in the right modules, you config the amp to your needs. Problem with jack of all trade is you are not good in any particular one thing. I design amps, I look at the pictures of the Emotiva, amps are plugged into slots. Each slot is quite small, heatsink is small. I looked at the pictures of those modules and count the number of output transistors. Most of the modules has only 3 pairs of output transistors. It's just not my definition of high end amps. Because of they try to make it universal and configurable, I think they are more expensive for the quality. They advertise $1999 on a lot of their amps, I think you can do better for that amount of money on an amp.


You can keep the emotiva to drive the rear and center, try a better amp and see how it sounds for the Goldenear. As I said, go borrow one from the store. As I put in the first post, the amp should be like 50 to 60% the cost. Your speakers are like $4500, I would try a 2ch amp over $2000 to $3000. I studied the circuit of Parasound A21, it's very good. The other one is Adcom GFA565 monoblock, but I think you have to get used. I've seen them as low as $1200 for a pair on ebay.



Now, I never listen to anyone of them. I just give you some I like according to the circuit design. I particularly like the Adcom GFA565. I usually read people's post on the names of the amp and go look for the schematic to study it to learn,

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post #10 of 26 Old 05-24-2019, 02:51 PM - Thread Starter
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I have an original Adcom GFA-555 powering a pair of KEF LS50 in my office. Not sure how it compares to the 565 but maybe I should install it in the theater and test it. I think I'll try that this weekend.

Any other suggestions?
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post #11 of 26 Old 05-24-2019, 04:05 PM
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I have an original Adcom GFA-555 powering a pair of KEF LS50 in my office. Not sure how it compares to the 565 but maybe I should install it in the theater and test it. I think I'll try that this weekend.

Any other suggestions?

I studied GFA555, My bet is on the 555 over the Emotiva......but not much. It's a decent amp but nothing to write home. It has 4 pairs of output transistors. I look at it as the equivalent to my Acurus in every ways, it's a starter amp.


Huge difference between 555 and 565, huge! They are not even in the same league!! But try the 555 first and see what happens. Adcom is a very under rated brand. Adcom used famous designers like Nelson Pass of Pass Lab/Threshold. Their GFA-5800 is one that's world class in design. I don't give a hoots about the name, I'll pick the 565 over the Krell KSA power amps.


Of cause, I never heard the 565, but my favorite amp I design is very similar to the design of 565 and it sounds very good to me. Before I started design and built amps a few years ago, I need a good power amp to serve as a reference to compare against. I bought a Nakamichi PA-7 that was designed by Nelson Pass, it's an improved version of his famous Threshold S300 that put him on the audiophile map. The PA-7 It's not even close to my amp that is similar to the 565. So I do have experience with the circuit of 565. If I were to buy a reference amp again, 565 would be number ONE on my list. Of cause I don't need it anymore and the PA-7 is sitting in the garage waiting to be disposed of.


More importantly 565 is monoblock, you buy it as a pair. Monoblock meaning the L and R channels are totally independent, with it's own power supply. This is very important from my experience. I build integrated amp, BUT it is literally a dual monoblock inside. It's like two separate amps in a single chassis. There is definitely improvement on the sound compare with the exact same circuit powered up by a single power supply. This is from real experiment and with good theoretical reasons.



FYI, I have no relation with Adcom, I don't own anything of Adcom. I studied hundreds of schematics of power amp, everything I said is based on studying of the circuit and look at the pictures of the internal of the amp and my own experience in designing power amps.

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post #12 of 26 Old 05-24-2019, 04:46 PM - Thread Starter
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You obviously know way more about amps than I do. What about the age of a given 565 and potentially needing to be re-capped? What if one that has already been re-capped? Could that make it worse than the original?
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post #13 of 26 Old 05-24-2019, 04:56 PM
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You obviously know way more about amps than I do. What about the age of a given 565 and potentially needing to be re-capped? What if one that has already been re-capped? Could that make it worse than the original?

You want my honest opinion? Unless I see the cap is leaking or bulging, I don't recap!!! I actually looking at the caps of the PA-7 when I first got it, it looked like it can use new caps. I recapped it myself, NOT A DARN DIFFERENCE in sound. I use until it pops!!!


BUT, try the 555 first, talk is cheap, it's just an opinion,

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post #14 of 26 Old 05-24-2019, 09:12 PM - Thread Starter
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I will try the GFA-555 this weekend but if you say it is vastly different than the 565 then it probably wont be indicative of it's sound. I am very intrigued by the GFA-565. I knew about the benefit of mono block amps but assumed I couldn't afford them having never considered older used amps.

I have always had an affinity for Adcom gear going back to my younger years. The GFA-555 I have was handed down to me from my father and it used to power a pair of Mirage M1s for many years and sounded great doing so. When I consider that the cost of a used pair of 565s is only slightly more than I should be able to sell my Emotiva XPA-3 for, they become even more appealing.

I will continue to research and deliberate but you have definitely given me some food for thought. The only down side is one of convenience and that is the lack of a trigger so I would have to turn them on/off manually each time. Not a deal breaker but definitely less convenient.

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post #15 of 26 Old 05-24-2019, 10:37 PM
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Make sure you can return them if you don't like it. That's the problem of buying used, it's not like stores that you can return easily. I can talk till my face turn blue, you might not like it.


Also, amps work with speakers, I don't know your speakers. Some speakers are easy to drive, you don't need good amps to have good sound. Some speakers like my pair are very picky on amps. The only way to find out is to try it. Make sure you can return them in case you don't like the sound.


Another one that I am a little apprehend to recommend because it uses older transistors. It's the Adcom GFA5800. I studied the schematic, it is designed by Nelson Pass of Pass Lab and Threshold. It's a MOSFET amplifier. It's a very strong amp. It is not quite dual monoblock, but each channel almost has separate power supply ( almost). I still put my bet on 565 just because I am a lot more familiar with it.



I have no experience with MOSFET amp, but people commented it's warmer sounding than regular transistor amps. People like tube amps tend to go to MOSFET amps. But this is all hear say on my part. But if you are using for both HT and hifi, my guess is 565 will be more neutral, better resolution and separation (base on experience with my amp).


Funny I studied hundreds of schematics, Only ones that impress me are 565, Parasound A21 and this 5800. I am not even impressed with Krell. Mark Levinson has a different spin on the front end, I am at the process of designing with the similar topology of the ML and see what's the fuzz about. So I reserve judgement on ML.

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post #16 of 26 Old 05-24-2019, 10:48 PM
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It's worth taking your time on the power amp. Power amps are not like the DAC, streaming, preamp that are almost like fashion. You spend a lot of money on those and two years later, they have something newer, different format and you cannot even give your old one away. Just like smart phone and computers.



High end power amps really have not change that much in the last 30 years. Those class D and class H amps are just to get good enough quality for cheaper price. But the high end ones really don't change. Only revolution is when the new generation of faster power transistors that can withstand higher voltage came on the market in the mid 80s. That's when the newer power amps make a big step forward. But since that time, it's been stale. The ones that designed in the late 80s using the newer transistor is NOT going to be much different ( if any) from the brand new ones now. You look at the circuits, they pretty much the same. Power amp to me is an investment, I won't buy one with all the DAC and all the bells and whistles, those will be out dated and you waste the power amp. Get separate, a good power amp that will last for years to come, then change the front end like fashion.


JMHO

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post #17 of 26 Old 05-24-2019, 11:13 PM
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So collectively neither my prepro, amp or speakers are good enough to warrant an upgrade of a DAC/streamer? I was under no illusion that my system was anywhere near top of the line but I didn't think it was low end either. Adding something like the NAD M32 should yield a noticeable difference?

If I were to add an integrated like the NAD M32 how would I go about adding that to my system and switch to and from it for movies and 2 channel listening?
You sound a little like you have what-can-i-spend-more-money-on?-itis. If you want to see why upgrading DACs for anything other than new features (formats, inputs, USB, etc.), take a stroll over to http://archimago.blogspot.com/ and check out the plethora of articles about the state of the art when it comes to DACs. Or for an often deeper dive, go to https://www.audiosciencereview.com/f...x.php?reviews/



More concerning to me is that I have been down this particular byway, and it leads to persistent dissatisfaction and bankruptcy. It is easy to obsess over what the next "improvement" should be, whether switching out this or that component for a "better" one or the one Stereophile recommends. In my experience, this results in about a week of nirvana until something else triggers your insecurity (speakers? cables? power amplifiers?), and you're off to the races again. (I will never forget the moment when I ABX'd a good working-class B&K 100w/ch amp (the ST140) against an also good, significantly more expensive Electrocompaniet amp (also 100w/ch, though that measurement is of limited relevance), and could hear no difference between the two.)



Looking over your equipment, I can't say I'm familiar with these particular items. But if you want to improve your sound, the answer will lie in your speakers and your room. Not that you won't soon decide that whatever you bought isn't good enough. But if you insist on buying things (and I realize I'm speculating here, I don't know you, but I recognize fellow sufferers as easily as an alcoholic recognizes his kin), spend you money on things that matter. Does MQA sound better than what's been available for years? No, it doesn't. Can you tell the difference between music decoded at 786 kHz and music decoded at 96 kHz (or 44.1 kHz)? Unlikely. We are more than past the days where we are chasing audible differences between digital formats and converters.



There have been a lot of developments in audio, most of them at the edges when it comes to actual audible improvement. There's nothing wrong with following the field and being aware of what new technologies and techniques have come along. But understand that we are at the point with digital music and music reproduction to know that 99.99999999999999999% of the improvements aren't audible. And dangerous to obsess over.


If I am misstating or misunderstanding your post, then I apologize in advance. I fear I am not.
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post #18 of 26 Old 05-25-2019, 01:48 AM
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I forgot one thing, the speakers placement is very important, before spending any money, experiment with the speaker placement starting with equilateral triangle where the distance between the speakers is equal to the distance between each of the speaker to the listening position, make sure the speaker is at least 2ft from the back wall. This is the starting position.


Then you turn the speakers and experiment, move the speakers closer a little or farther a little and listen. One inch or turning the speaker a few degrees can make a major difference in the sound stage and the sound. Optimize this first, then experiment with different amps and other things.

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post #19 of 26 Old 05-26-2019, 04:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Graustark - I would definitely say I have a bit of what-can-i-spend-more-money-on?-itis. I sold some equipment I no longer use so I figured I would put the money back into my system. I understand what your are saying and I know it can be a dangerous road but it's also kind of part and parcel for this hobby. I am a relative baby to this hobby compared to many. This is, by far, the best system I've ever owned. Previously my best was a pair of Klipsch bookshelf speakers and an Onkyo receiver. So while I have always been interested in this hobby since a kid and my father was also a bit of an audiophile, I've never experienced many different components. The purpose of this post was to try and find some advice on where my money would likely make the biggest improvement to my system.

alan0354 - Thanks for all your feedback. I get what you're saying about trying before buying but I don't see that being an option on used equipment. I was leaning heavily towards the Adcoms but the lack of a remote power on keeps nagging at me. That probably sounds stupid, but my rack is in another room and I'm afraid I would forget to turn them off and/or it would get annoying. So I've been really looking at reviews and comments on the Parasound A21 and I am now considering it instead. You've really got me thinking about giving my GoldeEar's some worthy power. I'm just worried whether or not the investment will yield audible results to my ear.

As for speaker placement, the fact that they are in a dedicated theater room makes placement options rather limited. I'll have to take some measurements but off the top of my head they are probably close to 2' from the rear wall and about the same from the side walls. They are spaced apart as narrowly as possible without blocking any of the projected image. I would guess that I am sitting I bit closer to them than they are apart from each other. I have played with toe in and I get a really strong phantom center speaker effect. But I can certainly play with toe angle more.
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post #20 of 26 Old 05-26-2019, 04:43 PM
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This is a great thread. I started my audio education mid last year trying to figure out how to combine home theater and good two channel music. It's not easy to get right. I ended up with the system in my signature but am having similar thoughts as the OP. I might... Add a Parasound amp myself for the front L/R or L/R/C if I get a center. I never intended to go much beyond 3.2 or possibly 5.2 for home theater, but still want the best 2 channel I can get. The KEF's sound really good to me in 2 channel, even with "just" my Yamaha A2080. And movies sound spectacular even at just 2.2 with audio reverberating from the sides and back, and a really strong phantom center.

I could see myself getting the amp and eventually a pre-amp and doing a dedicated 2 or 2.2 channel system. So many ways to do it.

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post #21 of 26 Old 05-26-2019, 05:40 PM
 
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Originally Posted by RockDawg View Post
I was leaning heavily towards the Adcoms but the lack of a remote power on keeps nagging at me. That probably sounds stupid, but my rack is in another room and I'm afraid I would forget to turn them off and/or it would get annoying.
I do not have time presently to look for other similar units, but I have been using two Panamax M8-AV-PRO surge protectors for several years in our theater room. They have a power on/off trigger for high-current components, such as our Adcom power amplifiers. You would connect one of the 12-Volt trigger outputs on your Marantz to the 12-Volt trigger input on the Panamax. When the Marantz is powered on and off, amplifiers plugged into the triggered outlets would do so as well.

One afternoon a lightning strike hit nearby. One Panamax sacrificed itself to save several components. All was well with the other Panamax. Customer service at Panamax quickly replaced the heroic M8-AV-PRO.

Also, I have seen on Amazon energy-saving surge protectors that turn off connected devices automatically.
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post #22 of 26 Old 05-26-2019, 06:17 PM - Thread Starter
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alan0354 - Would your opinion of the Parasound A21 also translate equally to the A31? I ask because the insides definitely look different and while I would like to include center channel amplification, I don't want to compromise for it.
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post #23 of 26 Old 05-26-2019, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by RockDawg View Post
alan0354 - Would your opinion of the Parasound A21 also translate equally to the A31? I ask because the insides definitely look different and while I would like to include center channel amplification, I don't want to compromise for it.

I cannot find the schematic of A31. But here are some pictures for comparison. From the pictures, it is my opinion that THEY ARE NOT EVEN CLOSE. Here is the explanation.


1) the first picture is the internal of A31. I labeled the 3 channels. You can see there's only 4 power transistors (2 pairs) per channel. Also, you don't see any big filter capacitors. There are a lot of empty space inside the chassis. Those power transistors are just regular power transistors.


2) The second picture is the top view of the A21. Look at how full it is!!! You see 4 big filter caps. Big Transformer ( the round one).



3) The third picture clearly shows there are 8 huge transistors on each channel. Those are very special transistor made by Sanken. They are like two regular power transistors( like in A31) in terms of power and capability. Sanken is the only one that make these super power transistors. A21 has 4 pairs of power transistors, that literally equals to pairs of output transistors.


From the pictures, there is no way those are of same quality. A21 has big heatsink, it must be very heavy also.


Don't laugh, my first line of judging a power amp is how heavy they are, how big the heatsink, how full inside is and last but not the least, how many pairs of output transistor......except Sanken, then I count 2 for each one. This might sound superficial and dumb, but I yet to find exception yet. Then I look at the schematic.


I would stick with the A21.
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Own designed power amp, own designed preamp, JM LAB Spectral 913.1 speakers, Rythmik F12SE sub.
Not hooked up: Nakamichi Stasis PA-7 power amp, Velodyne VA1210 sub, Kef Reference Series center, Kef Bookshelf speaker, Monitor Audio bookshelf speaker, Infinity rear speakers. Acurus 3X200W amp.
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post #24 of 26 Old 05-26-2019, 09:58 PM
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To put into perspective, I attached the internal pictures of some of the top end power amps. The order is Krell, Mark Levinson, Nakamichi PA-7( the one I have), Adcom GFA-5800......and last but not the least........My amp!!! Look at how full they all are. I have so much problem fitting everything in and has to skim a little here and there. There is no short cut........Big heatsink, big transformer, plenty of caps, plenty of big transistors...........



It is quite accurate using this as judgement!!!!
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Own designed power amp, own designed preamp, JM LAB Spectral 913.1 speakers, Rythmik F12SE sub.
Not hooked up: Nakamichi Stasis PA-7 power amp, Velodyne VA1210 sub, Kef Reference Series center, Kef Bookshelf speaker, Monitor Audio bookshelf speaker, Infinity rear speakers. Acurus 3X200W amp.
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post #25 of 26 Old 05-26-2019, 09:59 PM
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Just a note on the Emotiva and the heatsinks. I have the XPA-3 Gen 3, and I play music super dangerously loud. It barely gets warm I mean, barely above room temperature, so the heatsinks are more than enough for the job. I guess if you get the 7 channel version, YMMV, but I've never seen anyone claim their Emotiva XPA Gen 3 amp gets hot.

Spoiler!
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post #26 of 26 Old 05-26-2019, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by drh3b View Post
Just a note on the Emotiva and the heatsinks. I have the XPA-3 Gen 3, and I play music super dangerously loud. It barely gets warm I mean, barely above room temperature, so the heatsinks are more than enough for the job. I guess if you get the 7 channel version, YMMV, but I've never seen anyone claim their Emotiva XPA Gen 3 amp gets hot.
Yes, I am not surprised. You can design amp with high power by low bias to keep it cool. That's what most of the cheaper power amps do. Crossover distortion is the major issue on the quality of sound. Whenever the amp crossover from the up half of the push pull output transistor to the lower half ( same as from lower to upper half), you get crossover distortion. The amount of distortion is the same amplitude. This means the effect is most dominant when the signal is small.


That's where class A amplifier comes in. Class A amp never switch from top to bottom ( bottom to top) half, both halves are always working, there is no crossover distortion. But you waste a lot of power running in class A.


That's where a kind of amp called HIGH BIAS class AB that run higher bias current. The higher the current, the more you push the crossover until the signal gets bigger. As said, crossover distortion is the same amount, so if the crossover distortion happens when the signal is larger, the less the effect on the sound. So the higher the bias, the less the effect of the crossover distortion.


Higher bias current means it still burn a lot of power and produce a lot of heat, that's when you need big heatsink. It has NOTHING to do with the max output power. You can have a 200W power amp that run very cold, and you can have a 50W amp that is high bias and run very hot. It's NOT the number of Watts that matter, it's the QUALITY of the watts that matter.


You can buy a 200W amp cheap and there are 50W amps that are very expensive, it all depends on what you are looking for. If you always blast the music, you actually don't need as good an amp as you always run signal much higher than the crossover distortion. You can get away with cheaper amps. But if you listen to the system soft, that's when you need good quality amplifier.


It is my experience that a lot of amps sound good play loud, ONLY the really good amps sound good playing at low volume.


Like the amps I design, they are only about [email protected], but [email protected] and [email protected] Even with huge heat sink, because I run at 1A bias current, it gets really hot even at this low power. Because of the limit of the heatsink size of the chassis, I can only get [email protected] My bigger amp is [email protected], it's 8" tall, that's very big for only 100W. It still running very hot.


You can buy a cheap Yamaha AVR with say 5 channel, 200W each, all in one chassis, weight less than 30lbs and run cool. Do I need to comment on the sound?

Own designed power amp, own designed preamp, JM LAB Spectral 913.1 speakers, Rythmik F12SE sub.
Not hooked up: Nakamichi Stasis PA-7 power amp, Velodyne VA1210 sub, Kef Reference Series center, Kef Bookshelf speaker, Monitor Audio bookshelf speaker, Infinity rear speakers. Acurus 3X200W amp.

Last edited by alan0354; 05-26-2019 at 11:26 PM.
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