General Interest - Audio Analysis & Wire Splicing - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 6 Old 06-23-2019, 04:43 PM - Thread Starter
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General Interest - Audio Analysis & Wire Splicing

I hope it is OK to post this here. I made these two threads in another forum and thought they might be of general interest especially to new members of the forum -

Frequency Response Test of your System - AVForums- UK -

https://www.avforums.com/threads/fre...ystem.2234124/

I list a range of source of Audio Testing - YouTube, Downloadable Tones, Links to Apps, Links to Software, TEST CDs, etc...

Even places like Spotify have Audio Test Tone you can play. Though today with so many Smart Phones and so many Apps, you can simply download an App that does every thing you need.

Again, many of you are familiar with this, but for those who are new or somewhat new, this could be helpful.

Splicing Speaker Wires - Quick and Easy - AVForums - UK -


https://www.avforums.com/threads/spl...-easy.2234425/

Now I know what most of you are going to say, if one (or more) Wires are too short - JUST BUY NEW WIRE! And I agree, but occasionally in every forum someone asks about splicing Speaker Wire, so I put together a single post detailing all the ways to do this.

I haven't added a video about Soldering Speaker Wires, but I will add that as soon as I find a good one.

Again, this is just FYI General Information, it was too much work to duplicate it with USA Links, but there is nothing special about any of these products and you should easily find an equivalent in the USA.

I keep expanding both these threads but I think I'm reaching the threshold of what I can say about such basic topics.

Hopefully someone will find this useful.

Steve/bluewizard
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post #2 of 6 Old 06-23-2019, 09:15 PM
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I don't have scientific proof specifically, just a lot of listening and testing experience. I would NOT splice particularly using adapters to put two shorter pieces together. I don't think people appreciate the importance of speaker cable in case of low impedance speakers with extreme impedance swing MATCHING with power amps with high damping factor( low output impedance). I just built the low inductance cable like you linked http://diyaudioprojects.com/Power/Lo...peaker-Cables/ But using 6 pairs of 16 gauge. I actually disassembled one of my cable on ONE SIDE and just redo the twisting without changing the cable. It sounds quite different. Same length of cable, same connector, just different twisting. It is that important. I just did in on Friday. I did a DBT and people notice the difference on Saturday. It's very obvious.

I had built speaker/amp switching fixture that I can switch different amps to drive the same pair of speakers, driving by the same music source. I took precaution to use very heavy duty relays, very short and thick wires in the switching fixture. I was hoping that it will not degrade the sound. I made short low inductance speaker cables to connect the switching fixture. It FAILED, it degraded the sound. That was a total waste of time and money. I still have to hand switch speaker cables to switch amps. I so wish the switching fixture would work. It would be so easy as I can just sit in the chain at optimal position, flip the switch and compare two different amps. That I can have people listen without knowing which amp is using. BUT IT FAILED as it degrade the sound.

I am NOT an advocate in spending $$$ on cables, I build my own, it's $30 a pair. But my experience is it's very critical to make the cable as one complete cable with minimal connectors in between. Using just enough length for the setup.

I want to specify that what I said applies ONLY to speakers that are low impedance with extreme impedance swing MATCHING with power amp with very high damping factor. For tube amps that has damping factor like 1 to 5, I am sure you can use any cable and have any splicing in between will not matter.


I explained a few times, it's NOT the loss due to the reactance of the cable inductance as we agree that the reactance is in the range of 0.3ohm at 20KHz. IT's the THD increase due to the reactance of the cable inductance. I actually have a thread here on banana plug vs spade connector.

Own designed power amp, own designed preamp, JM LAB Spectral 913.1 speakers, Rythmik F12SE sub.
Not hooked up: Nakamichi Stasis PA-7 power amp, Velodyne VA1210 sub, Kef Reference Series center, Kef Bookshelf speaker, Monitor Audio bookshelf speaker, Infinity rear speakers. Acurus 3X200W amp.

Last edited by alan0354; 06-23-2019 at 09:20 PM.
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post #3 of 6 Old 06-23-2019, 09:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alan0354 View Post
I don't have scientific proof specifically, just a lot of listening and testing experience. I would NOT splice particularly using adapters to put two shorter pieces together......
Well, I did say that the first choice was -

if one (or more) Wires are too short - JUST BUY NEW WIRE!

But if someone wants to splice wire ...for whatever reason... I have given them a variety of ways to do that. For me, wire is cheap enough that simply buying new wire makes the most sense. But, I'm not everybody.

Thanks for that response though. To the subject at hand, and to those contemplating Splicing, it is helpful.

In that thread, I added a part about Solder Splices, and also added a Summary. In it I said that most of the connection methods were OK for a temporary fix, but for a long term solution, you either need to buy new wire, or create a secure Solder splice.

Steve/bluewizard
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post #4 of 6 Old 06-23-2019, 09:43 PM
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I want to clarify, I am not going to get deep, for people that use say single large size speaker wires ( like 12 gauge or 10 gauge). I think it's safe to extend with connectors. I don't think it will make any difference.


One day, I might do testing and see what happens by stacking cables with connectors. I just never even consider that, I just keep making cables of different length. I have a big boxful of cables and never have to consider splicing, just pick the right length out of the box.


I don't set out to design speaker cables, it's just situation time and time again that I got burnt by trying to take a short cut. That switching fixture was a painful failure, wasting money buying a bunch of very heavy duty relays, design it to be controlled remotely and all and now sit in the shed. The speaker cables keep getting in my way in testing amps!!!


Here are a few pictures of my Switching fixture, The big one is the relay module, I also have a preamp module with individual volume to level match the two power amps. All in the shed now, not even close to be acceptable.
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Own designed power amp, own designed preamp, JM LAB Spectral 913.1 speakers, Rythmik F12SE sub.
Not hooked up: Nakamichi Stasis PA-7 power amp, Velodyne VA1210 sub, Kef Reference Series center, Kef Bookshelf speaker, Monitor Audio bookshelf speaker, Infinity rear speakers. Acurus 3X200W amp.
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post #5 of 6 Old 06-24-2019, 12:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alan0354 View Post
.... , wasting money buying a bunch of very heavy duty relays, .....
I wonder if perhaps you didn't use the wrong type of relay. Mercury Wetted Relays don't bounce, and have quick clean contact.

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post #6 of 6 Old 06-25-2019, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewizard View Post
I wonder if perhaps you didn't use the wrong type of relay. Mercury Wetted Relays don't bounce, and have quick clean contact.

Steve/bluewizard
I really did not think about this any deeper, when it didn't work, I just chuck it in the shed. As I said, I am not interested in designing speaker cable and tester, It just keep getting in my way and I have to deal with it. When hand changing speaker cable from one amp to the other works, I just keep doing it now.


Now that you brought it up, I am thinking if I were to do it again, I'll get relay that has terminals so I solder the speaker cables directly onto the relay, that eliminates all the banana connections. The mistake on my fixture is I got the relays that have leads coming out instead of a solder or screw terminals. Then I was being fancy and put banana connectors so I can plug in any cable. But this has to wait until I have nothing better to do. I am plenty busy, I had a blind test on my amps and got feedback and I am modifying one of the amp right now.

Own designed power amp, own designed preamp, JM LAB Spectral 913.1 speakers, Rythmik F12SE sub.
Not hooked up: Nakamichi Stasis PA-7 power amp, Velodyne VA1210 sub, Kef Reference Series center, Kef Bookshelf speaker, Monitor Audio bookshelf speaker, Infinity rear speakers. Acurus 3X200W amp.
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