Originally Posted by A9X-308
Same here, it would be interesting.
I currently work in systems control engineering as it meant I got to work outdoors for a change. Not very challenging, but I'm retiring soon. Done a whole lot of things as well though. I've stopped repairing gear on the side, but have a bunch of tube and early SS gear to restore in retirement and as I'll soon be moving into much larger digs, I'm currently designing a new 4 way active front loaded horn system.
LOL, I came to the same conclusion and did the same. I once built a huge guitar comparator that had tons of different circuits copied into it as well as some of my own, so guitarists could come over and with the flick of a switch compare circuits and cabs. It usually confused the hell out of them as many couldn't pic the differences by ear alone. Many of the better players could and taught me a lot. My current guitar rig is a tiny Peavey Rage158 practice combo and the bass rig is a custom 2 way 15/6 (Beyma 15G40/B&C 6MD38) active rig.
One thing I want to see what you think. I read a lot in guitar amp design and even in hifi, people really believe in what kind of caps, resistors, tubes etc., and they think they are so important. They are willing to pay so much money to get a certain caps and all. I am too damn cheap, I always challenge that. I don't know about tube hifi amp, so I am not going to form an opinion just yet.
For guitar amps, all the components I use are the CHEAPEST OF THE CHEAP. I intentionally not using carbon comp resistors, I use all MF resistors. I use ceramic caps for signal path.......yes, intentionally proofing a point, use the cheapest of the cheap ceramic caps instead of the firm caps. I use the cheapest tubes from ebay at the time, I think the brand was Shinghan or something to build my two guitar amps. I use the cheap Illinois caps for filtering, all from ebay. My two amps sound very good to me. The sound is from the design, more importantly, the power scale put the amp in optimal over drive at any level. I believe in the design.
I do the same thing in SS hifi power amps in all my amps. I buy all the parts either from Digikey or Mouser to ensure they are not fake, but still the cheapest of the cheap. Like filter caps, people worry about ESR and pay a lot for low ESR filter caps. For me, instead of paying a lot of money buying the big 33,000uF "audio" grade caps that are like over $30 each ( that's cheap already). I use 4 of the cheap 10,000uF caps that is like $2 for larger quantity. Put 4 cheap smaller caps in parallel, I can easily get lower ESR than one expensive big cap as shown. You see I use a bunch of cheap 10,000uF, I can get more capacitance, lower ESR and most importantly, cheaper!!! I am born cheap. Hell, as much I talked about speaker cable, I buy the cheapest 16 gauge copper clad wires to build my cables and all connectors are from Amazon.
That brings back to the subject of this thread, when I looked at the website and $2000/pair of speaker cables, my god, no matter how I look at it, snake oil comes to mind. I am such a die hard speaker cable believer, but for cry out loud, even if they make the knitted cable, $100 is at least reasonable, hell $2000!!!!
BTW, you did mentioned you saw a lot of amps are not stable with those knitted cables like Kimber Kable, I read an article from Nelson Pass talking about this problem. His friend actually had an idea and patented it..........Putting a Sobal on the speaker end to stabilize the amp. The idea is the speaker is an open circuit at frequency of oscillation, putting a load will stabilize the amp. I bet something like 0.1uF cap in series with 5 or 10ohm resistor will do. I never try this as I tame my amps for high capacitance. But if you have a chance try that. Most amps already have a Sobal at the output already.