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post #1591 of 2638 Old 05-14-2015, 03:38 AM
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get a Roku.
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post #1592 of 2638 Old 05-14-2015, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Gary J View Post
get a Roku.
Scared off by stories of it interfering with 2.4 GHz wireless with no way to turn it off. I use wired networking only. In any event, I'm waiting for the next generation from Apple and Roku.

Whatever device you're using, is anyone else seeing the poor performance I described for Amazon Instant Video, or is the derpage a unique Sony feature, like their stupid "Acquiring Internet content" step? Actually, it's three steps taking 10 seconds or so, and you have to OK it at the end before you can go to Netflix or whatever.
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post #1593 of 2638 Old 05-14-2015, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by sawfish View Post
Amazon Instant Video sucks on my new Sony BD-S1500 Bluray player. My Panasonic ST60 TV has the same modern, front-end Amazon interface as the Sony S1500 BD player, but it loads videos totally differently. The ST60 takes a while to load the video, first with the "Checking connection speed" progress bar and then the "Loading video" progress bar, and then the video begins to play in full HD. The S1500 OTOH has neither progress bar but just a spinning circle, and while it starts up faster, it takes a full minute for it to ramp from sub-SD quality to HD quality. If I press Enter to bring up the controls, there is a grayed "HD" text indicator next to the elapsed time that becomes fully white once HD has been achieved. It's just terrible, and doubly so because seeking back to replay starts it all over again. It seems the TV takes the speed hit before it starts showing video, while the S1500 goes with a horribly bad adaptive approach. The Netflix implementation is SO MUCH BETTER than this Amazon Prime crap. Any ideas?
You're describing the difference in 2 different Amazon apps. The newer apps use the adaptive approach, which over-all gives better results than the old one. The newer app may also be needed to access 1080p, but this might vary by device. Here, using the FireTV stick, it ramps up to 1080p in about 30 sec most of the time. The adaptive approach allows you to start viewing the content faster, I prefer it. Players like Sony have added complexities and internet routing, so issues can be the result of many different things.
If you want to spend much time watching Amazon content the FireTV devices are the way to go.

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Scared off by stories of it interfering with 2.4 GHz wireless with no way to turn it off.
The Roku devices can be switched to the 5GHz band. Not sure about the Roku boxes with Ethernet, whether wireless can be switched off.
But again unless the Roku has something that FireTV lacks, I'd go with FireTV.
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post #1594 of 2638 Old 05-14-2015, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post
You're describing the difference in 2 different Amazon apps. The newer apps use the adaptive approach, which over-all gives better results than the old one. The newer app may also be needed to access 1080p, but this might vary by device. Here, using the FireTV stick, it ramps up to 1080p in about 30 sec most of the time. The adaptive approach allows you to start viewing the content faster, I prefer it. Players like Sony have added complexities and internet routing, so issues can be the result of many different things.
If you want to spend much time watching Amazon content the FireTV devices are the way to go.
It's interesting that they've updated the UI on my 2 y/o ST60 such that it is much improved (includes WatchList among other things) and is identical to the 2015 Sony S1500, yet the real nuts and bolts underneath it are so different. I've seen the adaptive approach with Silverlight on my PC, and it would clear up within a few seconds and was tolerable. The S1500 Amazon performance is unusably bad, so I guess I'll use the ST60 for Amazon if I ever really need to. The Netflix performance on the S1500 is stunningly better than the 30 seconds you mentioned for the Fire, and if that's the best Amazon can do, jeez.

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The Roku devices can be switched to the 5GHz band. Not sure about the Roku boxes with Ethernet, whether wireless can be switched off.
Google /roku wireless interference/. Apparently there is a "WiFi Direct" function that can't be switched off, and it's pretty notorious for causing interference.

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But again unless the Roku has something that FireTV lacks, I'd go with FireTV.
No IR remote capability, no want.
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post #1595 of 2638 Old 05-14-2015, 10:02 AM
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There are still people without IR universal remotes?
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post #1596 of 2638 Old 05-14-2015, 10:06 AM
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There are still people without IR universal remotes?
I think he's referring to the Fire TV devices which use Bluetooth instead of IR.
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post #1597 of 2638 Old 05-14-2015, 10:11 AM
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I think he's referring to the Fire TV devices which use Bluetooth instead of IR.
I am referring to why he does not want Roku.
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post #1598 of 2638 Old 05-14-2015, 11:06 AM
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I think he's referring to the Fire TV devices which use Bluetooth instead of IR.
Exactly. Amazon is nowhere near important enough to me to consider adding a special remote alongside my Sony RM-VL610, which I augment with codes taught from a JP1 remote and integrate with my HTPC to send IP commands to my AVR among many other things. I'm highly invested in IR and happy with it, and Fire TV is a non-starter.
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post #1599 of 2638 Old 05-14-2015, 11:24 AM
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I have the S1200 and it doesn't do it much better. In fact I "own" one series but chose to show to visiting friends on Netflix instead where the quality is better. The final episode of "Justify" also looked bad in HD. Hulu+ is often better. We should tell Jeff Bezos that.
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post #1600 of 2638 Old 05-14-2015, 11:26 AM
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post #1601 of 2638 Old 05-14-2015, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary J View Post
I am referring to why he does not want Roku.
The Roku does have IR capability so I assumed you were talking about the Fire TV stick.
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post #1602 of 2638 Old 05-14-2015, 02:37 PM
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"FLIRC" isn't going to work with a Fire TV Stick--no USB input (well, there is one but it's only to provide power).

One nice thing about the Fire TV Stick (and presumably the box) is that it implements the HDMI Consumer Electronics Control (CEC) protocol. Mine is plugged into the Sony panel in the living room, powered by the panel's USB port and controlled, via CEC, by the television's remote. No need for its RF remote or even its little wall plug power supply.

I've got it set to require my PIN for purchases and system settings changes and for some bizarre reason they changed the PIN input from an on-screen numeric keypad to a strange number wheel requiring a remote button whose equivalent I can't find on the TV remote, but I can grab my smartphone and use the app for that when needed.

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post #1603 of 2638 Old 05-18-2015, 12:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sawfish View Post

No IR remote capability, no want.
Understand your concerns about WiFi Direct interference with the Roku 3.

I have a Fire TV and use a Harmony Universal remote with the dongle from the Ortek Media Center MCE PC Remote Control

I did have to make some adjustments in the Harmony app to stop double clicks - but now it works well.

Amazon Instant ramps quickly to 1080P and looks great.
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post #1604 of 2638 Old 05-18-2015, 04:07 AM
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Originally Posted by undecided View Post

I have a Fire TV and use a Harmony Universal remote with the dongle from the Ortek Media Center MCE PC Remote Control
I have one small set up with 4 devices - TV, AVR, Roku, Apple TV

Someone suggested Inteset 4-in-1 Universal Backlit Apple TV, Xbox One, Roku & WMC Learning IR Remote which handles up to 4 devices with 2 of mine - Roku and Apple, built in. Perfect.
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post #1605 of 2638 Old 05-19-2015, 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by sawfish View Post
Google /roku wireless interference/. Apparently there is a "WiFi Direct" function that can't be switched off, and it's pretty notorious for causing interference.
That is what he is talking about - the WiFi Direct for the remote. You can shift the WiFi Direct to 2.4 or 5 GHz on the channel you want - with the caveat that it does not always consistently stick across power cycles.

v/r,
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post #1606 of 2638 Old 05-19-2015, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary J View Post
I have one small set up with 4 devices - TV, AVR, Roku, Apple TV

Someone suggested Inteset 4-in-1 Universal Backlit Apple TV, Xbox One, Roku & WMC Learning IR Remote which handles up to 4 devices with 2 of mine - Roku and Apple, built in. Perfect.
If you get a JP1 cable for another $8, you can unlock 8 device capability on the Inteset and load IR codes for any device without the need for any learning. But I'd be shocked if your TV and AVR codes weren't already built in as well. Like all UEI remotes, the Inteset supports thousands of models out of the box. And with or without a cable, you can add any command for any device without the need for learning, including unlearnable discrete codes.

Plus, taking advantage of JP1, you can do some amazing programming, running circles around any Harmony or similar universal.
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post #1607 of 2638 Old 05-19-2015, 08:06 AM
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If you get a JP1 cable for another $8, you can unlock 8 device capability on the Inteset and load IR codes for any device without the need for any learning. But I'd be shocked if your TV and AVR codes weren't already built in as well. Like all UEI remotes, the Inteset supports thousands of models out of the box. And with or without a cable, you can add any command for any device without the need for learning, including unlearnable discrete codes.

Plus, taking advantage of JP1, you can do some amazing programming, running circles around any Harmony or similar universal.
The Panasonic TV and Denon AVR were found. I had to learn the OK button for the TV for some reason.
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post #1608 of 2638 Old 05-19-2015, 10:41 PM
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Ended up getting a Roku Streaming Stick. Wish I had read about the wifi interference before getting it. :\ It's definitely real. Going in to the secret antenna menu and pressing a button on the remote shows immediate results.
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post #1609 of 2638 Old 05-20-2015, 05:27 AM
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The Panasonic TV and Denon AVR were found. I had to learn the OK button for the TV for some reason.
If you should ever want to add some more Denon commands, I have some upgrades that have every possible command, all discrete codes for all zones, a few hundred in all:

http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dl...&file_id=13367
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dl...&file_id=12879
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dl...&file_id=12518

Specific model isn't really important since most share the same codes essentially.

As for OK, if channel lock is enabled, OK is punched thru from the cable device. There is another way to fix it without learning.
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post #1610 of 2638 Old 05-20-2015, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by sawfish View Post
Amazon Instant Video sucks on my new Sony BD-S1500 Bluray player. My Panasonic ST60 TV has the same modern, front-end Amazon interface as the Sony S1500 BD player, but it loads videos totally differently. The ST60 takes a while to load the video, first with the "Checking connection speed" progress bar and then the "Loading video" progress bar, and then the video begins to play in full HD. The S1500 OTOH has neither progress bar but just a spinning circle, and while it starts up faster, it takes a full minute for it to ramp from sub-SD quality to HD quality. If I press Enter to bring up the controls, there is a grayed "HD" text indicator next to the elapsed time that becomes fully white once HD has been achieved. It's just terrible, and doubly so because seeking back to replay starts it all over again. It seems the TV takes the speed hit before it starts showing video, while the S1500 goes with a horribly bad adaptive approach. The Netflix implementation is SO MUCH BETTER than this Amazon Prime crap. Any ideas?
Yes, get a real streaming device instead of a cheap blu-ray player. I have none of your issues. We absolutely LUV Amazon Prime in this house.

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post #1611 of 2638 Old 05-20-2015, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdavej View Post
If you should ever want to add some more Denon commands, I have some upgrades that have every possible command, all discrete codes for all zones, a few hundred in all:

http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dl...&file_id=13367
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dl...&file_id=12879
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dl...&file_id=12518

Specific model isn't really important since most share the same codes essentially.

As for OK, if channel lock is enabled, OK is punched thru from the cable device. There is another way to fix it without learning.
Thanks but this is a simple setup in a vacay home - no cable box, good QAM selection, sound from TV to AVR via optical. With Roku, Apple TV, Chromecast not even needing a remote, and volume and mute applied to all devices this remote is a great bargain.
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post #1612 of 2638 Old 05-20-2015, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by sawfish View Post
Exactly. Amazon is nowhere near important enough to me to consider adding a special remote alongside my Sony RM-VL610, which I augment with codes taught from a JP1 remote and integrate with my HTPC to send IP commands to my AVR among many other things. I'm highly invested in IR and happy with it, and Fire TV is a non-starter.
You REALLY need to do some research before bashing...This uses YOUR remote:

http://www.amazon.com/FLIRC-Dongle-M...g=aftvndeal-20
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post #1613 of 2638 Old 05-20-2015, 01:43 PM
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You REALLY need to do some research before bashing...This uses YOUR remote:

http://www.amazon.com/FLIRC-Dongle-M...g=aftvndeal-20
Let me be even more clear. Amazon is nowhere near important enough for me to consider buying a Fire TV and adding a Flirc to make it functional. And if you think any of this has been "bashing", your reading comprehension is abysmal. I won't be reading any more of it.
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post #1614 of 2638 Old 05-20-2015, 07:36 PM
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You have bashed the Roku because it interferes with your router (mine does not interfere with mine at all). You have bashed the Fire TV because it won't accept IR because you are "heavily invested in IR"...Hardly, You just want to use the Sony remote is all, but unwilling to spend $14. Hey man, no skin off my nose. Everything works fabulously here and I don't use an IR remote, I use a BT remote.

But, whatever floats your boat. I wish you luck in finding what you are searching for.
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post #1615 of 2638 Old 06-01-2015, 02:27 PM
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Why do they call it 'Obama Phone' when it dates back to the 80's under Reagan??

Need help with your Motorola DVR? Check the Wikibook: How to use a Motorola DVR
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post #1616 of 2638 Old 06-01-2015, 03:00 PM
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And why is it in 2 separate threads, one focusing on Amazon Prime, and the other Netflix Picture quality???

Dazed and confused over high tech.

Sigh...Concrap. The Internet Overlord Cometh
They're not com-tastic!
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post #1617 of 2638 Old 06-01-2015, 03:31 PM
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Why do they call it 'Obama Phone' when it dates back to the 80's under Reagan??
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Originally Posted by Westly-C View Post
And why is it in 2 separate threads, one focusing on Amazon Prime, and the other Netflix Picture quality???
Because someone appears to be pushing an agenda, an agenda that doesn't belong here.
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post #1618 of 2638 Old 06-01-2015, 07:08 PM
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Watching Strike Back on Amazon Instant & the pic looks really soft. Doesn't look 720. Watching on Roku 3.
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post #1619 of 2638 Old 07-21-2015, 12:59 PM
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Slow West (2015). A recommended film to watch (especially if you like the Western genre) on Amazon Prime streaming - not currently available on Netflix.

All I Really Need to Know I Learned in Kindergarten Movies
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post #1620 of 2638 Old 07-27-2015, 11:20 AM
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If the Roku devices have no way of displaying resolution why would anyone in the Roku forums have any better idea?

On Netflix streams on my Roku 2 2015 (4210R) the asterisk brings up the resolution, with other information, displaying it in the top left corner. When I first start a video, it is usually at 480 then goes to 720 and then 1080 in a few seconds.
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