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post #31 of 419 Old 11-23-2008, 08:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Spent some time addressing the suggestion for my air return. I recessed the duct with 2x2s and replaced the metal ductwork with flexduct. I still need to get some linacoustic though.



Note the 2 extra inches of depth




I also pulled/fought/installed some 3/4 ENT conduit to so I can pull wire later.



Not sure how I'm going to finish my home runs. I could go with just plywood or step up to wallplates. What have you guys done in your builds?

I need to order some larger conduit for my LV video runs to the projector, aux I/O panel near the riser and LV audio to the screen wall. I'm getting close to insulating the walls and ceiling and ordering supplies for drywalling. Any gotchas I should be aware of before closing the walls?

Thanks

Audio: Marantz AV7702mkII / Marantz MM8077 / Emotiva UPA-7 for 7.2.4 Atmos/DTS:X
Video: Sony VPL-VW600ES & SI Black Diamond 133" 2.35:1 CIH for 4K UHD
Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Mede8er 600d with Synology ds716 NAS (28tb), PS4, DirecTV
7. Paradigm Studio 20 v5 (L, R, FW), CC-590 v5 (C), Sonance VP63 (SS); 2. DIYSG DA HO 18" (4); PSA S3000i (3); 4! Infinity Entra One (FH), Sonance VP65R (TR)
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post #32 of 419 Old 11-24-2008, 06:14 AM
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Did you ever figure out your plan for the GrafikEye? I know you were wondering about how you were going to do it. I have to say that just using the extra large 4 gang box from Menards worked fine for me. I was worried there would be too much stuff in there, but I got it to work without too many problems.

My build thread:
The Maple Street Theater
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post #33 of 419 Old 11-24-2008, 12:36 PM - Thread Starter
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I ended up ganging four 1 gang extra deep boxes. I wanted extra deep boxes as I suspect I'll need as much room as possible. I wired for an entrance switch using romex, but I may switch to PELV wiring when I order my GE.


Audio: Marantz AV7702mkII / Marantz MM8077 / Emotiva UPA-7 for 7.2.4 Atmos/DTS:X
Video: Sony VPL-VW600ES & SI Black Diamond 133" 2.35:1 CIH for 4K UHD
Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Mede8er 600d with Synology ds716 NAS (28tb), PS4, DirecTV
7. Paradigm Studio 20 v5 (L, R, FW), CC-590 v5 (C), Sonance VP63 (SS); 2. DIYSG DA HO 18" (4); PSA S3000i (3); 4! Infinity Entra One (FH), Sonance VP65R (TR)
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post #34 of 419 Old 11-24-2008, 01:20 PM
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I thought I might need an entrance switch, but so far I haven't felt the need for it. If you need help when you get around to actually wiring the GE up let me know. I learned some tricks after doing mine which should help you out.

My build thread:
The Maple Street Theater
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post #35 of 419 Old 11-24-2008, 03:32 PM - Thread Starter
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I'll definately follow up on the GE tips. Thanks for the offer.

Audio: Marantz AV7702mkII / Marantz MM8077 / Emotiva UPA-7 for 7.2.4 Atmos/DTS:X
Video: Sony VPL-VW600ES & SI Black Diamond 133" 2.35:1 CIH for 4K UHD
Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Mede8er 600d with Synology ds716 NAS (28tb), PS4, DirecTV
7. Paradigm Studio 20 v5 (L, R, FW), CC-590 v5 (C), Sonance VP63 (SS); 2. DIYSG DA HO 18" (4); PSA S3000i (3); 4! Infinity Entra One (FH), Sonance VP65R (TR)
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post #36 of 419 Old 11-24-2008, 03:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Okay, I about to start my low voltage wiring plan but I'd like some feedback. So, I thought I'd post my plans and see what you guys think. Have I overlooked something? Are there any suggestions or observations of note?

First is my LOW VOLTAGE AUDIO PLAN. I plan to use 14 gauge speaker wire for all runs. Runs #11 and #12 are for potential buttkickers in the seating area. All of these runs will terminate in the equipment room.



Here is my LOW VOLTAGE VIDEO PLAN. I culled these runs together from researching other builds on the net. I'm not sure what zone #3 (VGA) and #4 (Cat6) to the projector are for. I suspect #3 is for tweaking the projector with a computer. I put #12 (Cat 6) in for a potential IR run from the front wall but I'm still researching how all that works. All of these runs except #3 will terminate in the equipment room. Run #3 will terminate in the riser area.



What do you think? What have you done?

Thanks

Audio: Marantz AV7702mkII / Marantz MM8077 / Emotiva UPA-7 for 7.2.4 Atmos/DTS:X
Video: Sony VPL-VW600ES & SI Black Diamond 133" 2.35:1 CIH for 4K UHD
Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Mede8er 600d with Synology ds716 NAS (28tb), PS4, DirecTV
7. Paradigm Studio 20 v5 (L, R, FW), CC-590 v5 (C), Sonance VP63 (SS); 2. DIYSG DA HO 18" (4); PSA S3000i (3); 4! Infinity Entra One (FH), Sonance VP65R (TR)
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post #37 of 419 Old 11-24-2008, 03:54 PM
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For your projector, I would run VGA and Cat5 definately. You may want to consider running an additional component or HDMI cable as well, especially if you're planning on doing any kind of split screen for TV.

For your USB plate. How long of a run will you have from the plate to your EQ room? Anything more than 18-20 feet needs to have a repeater inline, so be sure to factor that in if it's the case.
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post #38 of 419 Old 11-24-2008, 07:25 PM - Thread Starter
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The run from my auxillary i/o plate to my EQ room will be about 10' - 12' so it should be OK. Didn't know USB run distance was so limited.

Thanks for the reply - very helpful.

Audio: Marantz AV7702mkII / Marantz MM8077 / Emotiva UPA-7 for 7.2.4 Atmos/DTS:X
Video: Sony VPL-VW600ES & SI Black Diamond 133" 2.35:1 CIH for 4K UHD
Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Mede8er 600d with Synology ds716 NAS (28tb), PS4, DirecTV
7. Paradigm Studio 20 v5 (L, R, FW), CC-590 v5 (C), Sonance VP63 (SS); 2. DIYSG DA HO 18" (4); PSA S3000i (3); 4! Infinity Entra One (FH), Sonance VP65R (TR)
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post #39 of 419 Old 11-26-2008, 11:30 AM - Thread Starter
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All,

Have a Happy Thanksgiving.

Thanks

Audio: Marantz AV7702mkII / Marantz MM8077 / Emotiva UPA-7 for 7.2.4 Atmos/DTS:X
Video: Sony VPL-VW600ES & SI Black Diamond 133" 2.35:1 CIH for 4K UHD
Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Mede8er 600d with Synology ds716 NAS (28tb), PS4, DirecTV
7. Paradigm Studio 20 v5 (L, R, FW), CC-590 v5 (C), Sonance VP63 (SS); 2. DIYSG DA HO 18" (4); PSA S3000i (3); 4! Infinity Entra One (FH), Sonance VP65R (TR)
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post #40 of 419 Old 01-01-2009, 09:11 AM - Thread Starter
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All,

Happy New Year! I'm a bit overdue for an update so here it goes with pics. I've spent time getting ready for drywall and I'm nearly there. I have my DD, GG, clips and hat channel all waiting patiently. They may have to wait a little longer as I've decided to install my door jambs before putting drywall up. Why? I want to install the drywall tight to, or maybe over the jambs to help limit sounds leaks.

I'd planned to use the "interior solid core door mounted in an exterior frame" combination for both of my doors. Based on a little research, such a door appeared to be priced a little less than $200. Got a message with a quote of $420 from a local lumber yard/door shop. It seemed a little pricey but I didn't think it was too bad for a couple of quasi-custom doors. Called them back to firm up the details and learned that the quote was $420 per door. No thanks. Because of the huge price discrepancy, I wondered if I had asked for the wrong thing. I get my jambs, frames, slabs and other door terminology mixed up from time to time. A quick exchange with Ted White confirmed that I'd asked for the correct product. Hmm, maybe the door guy was confused. Called him back again to triple check. The quote was based on a solid wood door. Aha! Surely swapping to a solid core door would lower price. The new quote..........................$390-$400. Again, no thanks.

Now, its on to plan B: interior solid core doors on interior jambs with weather stripping and some solution for the bottom. A very quick search at HD shows I can get BOTH doors for about $200. I also realized that with the dricore, pad and carpet, the gap at the bottom will not be as big as I first imagined. Also, I already have one interior jamb in place so I just need to swap out the door.

On to the pics.

Built frames around my main breaker panel and phone/sat board. I'll build doors and add window plug foam to limit the sound transmission.




Finished all of my in wall low voltage runs. I'll do the riser area later, if I ever get to that point.


Projector run done with 2" flex. Had to buy a 50' roll - will have tons of this left. The drop on the right is for an eventual star ceiling.


Here is the EQ room where all of the runs terminate. I plan to cut down the plywood a bit and add some LV mudrings so I can add drywall. A local HT enthusiast just had is final inspection and was told the area under the stairs should be viewed as finished/living space and as such, should be drywalled. OK. Note the CAT6 and coax wallplate on the lower right. "SPEND A LITTLE EXTRA TO GET GOOD TOOLS!" I thought I'd learned this lesson before, but apparently not. I needed a stripper/crimper to terminate my Coax. I could not see spending $35 for a tool I may likely never use again so I grabbed the cheapo that came with its own F connectors. All was fine until I gave a test tug on my crimp. The connector came off waaay too easily. Took a lot of messing around...anyway


R-19, R-13, Integrity Gasket installed. Insulation is nasty stuff. Not very pleasant at all.


Vapor Barrier up to keep the nasty stuff at bay.




Used my laser level to mark my clips and hat channel.


Mark on opposite wall 22' away


I need to figure out how to mount these so they fit below my channel and DD. Any suggestions?


I plan to mount my clips and channel, figure out my doors, add a battery backup and new sump pump then start drywall. That's the plan anyway.

Thanks,

kjlewie

Audio: Marantz AV7702mkII / Marantz MM8077 / Emotiva UPA-7 for 7.2.4 Atmos/DTS:X
Video: Sony VPL-VW600ES & SI Black Diamond 133" 2.35:1 CIH for 4K UHD
Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Mede8er 600d with Synology ds716 NAS (28tb), PS4, DirecTV
7. Paradigm Studio 20 v5 (L, R, FW), CC-590 v5 (C), Sonance VP63 (SS); 2. DIYSG DA HO 18" (4); PSA S3000i (3); 4! Infinity Entra One (FH), Sonance VP65R (TR)
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post #41 of 419 Old 01-04-2009, 02:40 PM - Thread Starter
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A little progress this weekend. I got my clips and channel installed. I thought I was ready to begin hanging drywall, but I had a question (of course). My first row of channel on each side is placed so I can connect my soffit to it. The rest are at 2 ft. increments per the installation instructions. My question is, "can I screw drywall and my soffit to the same row of channel?" Or, do I need a separate row of channel? Is there a better forum to post this question?

Here are a couple of pics of the clips going up





Now a couple of the channel going in. I had to cut a few by hand but it was relatively easy to do so.







I also rerouted my sump pump pipe and added a battery backup system. The pipe used to be 30 inches off the floor. Now it is 7" high. A couple of my neighbors helped reroute the pvc - great guys. The pump runs often but now it is much quieter. If its not quiet enough, at 7" I can enclose it inside of my stage area with the backup system sitting on top.





Then I finished the doors for my breaker panel and phone/tv panel. I'll line them is sound proofing foam and likely use velcro to close them.











I plan to start drywalling, but I need to figure out if the channel can support soffit and drywall.

Thanks,

kjlewie

Audio: Marantz AV7702mkII / Marantz MM8077 / Emotiva UPA-7 for 7.2.4 Atmos/DTS:X
Video: Sony VPL-VW600ES & SI Black Diamond 133" 2.35:1 CIH for 4K UHD
Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Mede8er 600d with Synology ds716 NAS (28tb), PS4, DirecTV
7. Paradigm Studio 20 v5 (L, R, FW), CC-590 v5 (C), Sonance VP63 (SS); 2. DIYSG DA HO 18" (4); PSA S3000i (3); 4! Infinity Entra One (FH), Sonance VP65R (TR)
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post #42 of 419 Old 01-04-2009, 03:25 PM
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It should easily support the soffit ... but you can always frame the soffit with metal studs to reduce weight
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post #43 of 419 Old 01-04-2009, 04:16 PM
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Looks like you're making great progress. You'll be past me in no time.

My build thread:
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post #44 of 419 Old 01-07-2009, 09:17 AM - Thread Starter
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I decided to attach my soffits to the hat channel through the drywall. After conferring with Ted White (a really patient and helpful guy) I installed additional clips to provide extra support to the channel.

I need to finalize my soffit dimensions for the clips and channel, extend my door jambs and then….drywall.

Thanks,

kjlewie

Audio: Marantz AV7702mkII / Marantz MM8077 / Emotiva UPA-7 for 7.2.4 Atmos/DTS:X
Video: Sony VPL-VW600ES & SI Black Diamond 133" 2.35:1 CIH for 4K UHD
Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Mede8er 600d with Synology ds716 NAS (28tb), PS4, DirecTV
7. Paradigm Studio 20 v5 (L, R, FW), CC-590 v5 (C), Sonance VP63 (SS); 2. DIYSG DA HO 18" (4); PSA S3000i (3); 4! Infinity Entra One (FH), Sonance VP65R (TR)
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post #45 of 419 Old 02-03-2009, 04:25 PM
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Any updates?

My build thread:
The Maple Street Theater
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post #46 of 419 Old 02-04-2009, 10:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, I'm a bit overdue for an update. I've made decent progress and continue to wittle away at my todo list. Solid core oak door installed, jambs extended and first layer of drywall up.

After I add acoustic caulk to the seems and openings in the first layer of drywall, its GG and the 2nd layer. Then soffits for my 2 air supplies and 6 recessed lights. Then riser, stage,...uh, one thing at a time. Enough about my intentions, here are a few pics of what I've actually done.

Installed a solid core oak door from Menards. Kinda difficult to do alone. I ended up peeling back some of the vapor barrier and insulation and crawling through the staggered stud wall to double, triple check my install.



Used well documented threads from JeffC and BigMouth to extend the jambs for both doors. The white temporary door in the stagger stud wall needed a 1 3/8" extension while the new oak door required a 7/8" extension. Took BIG and Jeff's advice and added a reveal. I like the result but the door hardware is rubbing the extension before it hits the strikeplate. Any ideas to fix it? Maybe a blank strike plate or a "larger/wider" one? You can see it in the next pic.



Here's the reveal on the other side with dowels to fill screw holes



Drywall ready to go up. Blocking for surround speakers and projector mounting in place. Drywall lift rented from HD.









Want to mention that my wife has been unbelievable in her willingness to help with drywall. I could do it myself but it would be so much more difficult. Even the kids have helped out. Didn't quite anticipate drywalling turning into a family activity but it's made the process much more enjoyable.

Now that football is done, I hope to finish GG and drywall this weekend.

Thanks,

Audio: Marantz AV7702mkII / Marantz MM8077 / Emotiva UPA-7 for 7.2.4 Atmos/DTS:X
Video: Sony VPL-VW600ES & SI Black Diamond 133" 2.35:1 CIH for 4K UHD
Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Mede8er 600d with Synology ds716 NAS (28tb), PS4, DirecTV
7. Paradigm Studio 20 v5 (L, R, FW), CC-590 v5 (C), Sonance VP63 (SS); 2. DIYSG DA HO 18" (4); PSA S3000i (3); 4! Infinity Entra One (FH), Sonance VP65R (TR)
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post #47 of 419 Old 02-07-2009, 09:42 PM - Thread Starter
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We finished the first layer of drywalling last night.









Afterwards, I began to worry about my utility light and smoke detector outlet boxes and how much sound might leak through. I decided to take down a sheet of drywall to address the outlets.



Verifying that I had enough room between the joists, I began to build boxes out of 3/4" scrap wood, 5/8" scrap drywall, acoustic caulk and GG.





Nailed, screwed and glued





Test fit looks good



While waiting for my boxes to dry, I snapped a couple of pics of my doorway. The extension allowed me to run the drywall right up to the door, leaving barely any gap. A small bit of caulk and no sound transmission through the door framing.





Thanks

Audio: Marantz AV7702mkII / Marantz MM8077 / Emotiva UPA-7 for 7.2.4 Atmos/DTS:X
Video: Sony VPL-VW600ES & SI Black Diamond 133" 2.35:1 CIH for 4K UHD
Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Mede8er 600d with Synology ds716 NAS (28tb), PS4, DirecTV
7. Paradigm Studio 20 v5 (L, R, FW), CC-590 v5 (C), Sonance VP63 (SS); 2. DIYSG DA HO 18" (4); PSA S3000i (3); 4! Infinity Entra One (FH), Sonance VP65R (TR)
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post #48 of 419 Old 02-07-2009, 10:21 PM - Thread Starter
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With my outlet boxes now dry, I installed them with adhesive and screws. I fed the wires through small drilled holes in the top of each box. I will fill these holes with acoustic caulk.







I had a bit of trouble feeding all of the wires through the small hole in the last pic. Grabbed my rubber handled needle nose pliers and saw a FLASH, heard a POP, pretty sure there was a puff of smoke, too. Of all of my OCD issues, freaking out about electrical safety is pretty high on the list. While waiting for my outlet boxes to dry, I turned the circuit back on to work on something else and forgot. I image all of you are very careful about electricity, just use my incident as a reminder to double check your breakers. Among the many things I've learned during this project, this lesson will not be forgotten.

After completing the boxes, we started the GG and 2nd layer of drywall.





By the way, that GG is some sticky sh...stuff.

Thanks,

Audio: Marantz AV7702mkII / Marantz MM8077 / Emotiva UPA-7 for 7.2.4 Atmos/DTS:X
Video: Sony VPL-VW600ES & SI Black Diamond 133" 2.35:1 CIH for 4K UHD
Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Mede8er 600d with Synology ds716 NAS (28tb), PS4, DirecTV
7. Paradigm Studio 20 v5 (L, R, FW), CC-590 v5 (C), Sonance VP63 (SS); 2. DIYSG DA HO 18" (4); PSA S3000i (3); 4! Infinity Entra One (FH), Sonance VP65R (TR)
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post #49 of 419 Old 02-08-2009, 05:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjlewie View Post


I had a bit of trouble feeding all of the wires through the small hole in the last pic. Grabbed my rubber handled needle nose pliers and saw a FLASH, heard a POP, pretty sure there was a puff of smoke, too. Of all of my OCD issues, freaking out about electrical safety is pretty high on the list. While waiting for my outlet boxes to dry, I turned the circuit back on to work on something else and forgot. I image all of you are very careful about electricity, just use my incident as a reminder to double check your breakers. Among the many things I've learned during this project, this lesson will not be forgotten.

I did something similar. I was switching out an outlet that got covered with drywall mud. I flipped off the breaker for the theater room, cut the wires from the outlet and went to strip the end of the wires. POP. Hey now there's a hole in my wire strippers. Where did that come from? I then realized I had that outlet on a different breaker.

My build thread:
The Maple Street Theater
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post #50 of 419 Old 02-08-2009, 07:47 AM
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Very nice boxes. Thanks for the details on those.

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post #51 of 419 Old 02-22-2009, 09:05 PM - Thread Starter
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My wife and I finished up the second layer of drywall last week. I was concerned about the roughness of the cut outs around my utility boxes and possible sound leaks. So I took Bigmouth's advice and picked up some rope caulk and spray insulation to fill in the gaps. Thanks Big.

Here are a couple of pics of the gaps





I added rope caulk and spray foam and got this





Used a serated knife to cut off the excess and its good to go




Audio: Marantz AV7702mkII / Marantz MM8077 / Emotiva UPA-7 for 7.2.4 Atmos/DTS:X
Video: Sony VPL-VW600ES & SI Black Diamond 133" 2.35:1 CIH for 4K UHD
Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Mede8er 600d with Synology ds716 NAS (28tb), PS4, DirecTV
7. Paradigm Studio 20 v5 (L, R, FW), CC-590 v5 (C), Sonance VP63 (SS); 2. DIYSG DA HO 18" (4); PSA S3000i (3); 4! Infinity Entra One (FH), Sonance VP65R (TR)
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post #52 of 419 Old 02-22-2009, 09:34 PM - Thread Starter
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After caulking all of the seams of the drywall, I started on my soffits. The first layer is 1/2" plywood, then GG and 5/8" drywall. Since I'm attaching the soffits to my Hat Channel, I used Ted White's suggestion and installed extra Whisper clips on the parallel perimeter channels.













Soffits turned out pretty good...





...except for this



I plan to box in the pipe but I haven't quite figured out how to finish the soffit near the pipe as the pipe box will connect to the soffit somehow. Any suggestions? Once I finish this, I plan to hire for the mud and tape. After that, its on to Dricore, stage and riser, and paint!

Thanks

Audio: Marantz AV7702mkII / Marantz MM8077 / Emotiva UPA-7 for 7.2.4 Atmos/DTS:X
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Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Mede8er 600d with Synology ds716 NAS (28tb), PS4, DirecTV
7. Paradigm Studio 20 v5 (L, R, FW), CC-590 v5 (C), Sonance VP63 (SS); 2. DIYSG DA HO 18" (4); PSA S3000i (3); 4! Infinity Entra One (FH), Sonance VP65R (TR)
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post #53 of 419 Old 02-22-2009, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjlewie View Post

Used well documented threads from JeffC and BigMouth to extend the jambs for both doors. The white temporary door in the stagger stud wall needed a 1 3/8" extension while the new oak door required a 7/8" extension. Took BIG and Jeff's advice and added a reveal. I like the result but the door hardware is rubbing the extension before it hits the strikeplate. Any ideas to fix it? Maybe a blank strike plate or a "larger/wider" one? You can see it in the next pic.



Did you ever find a solution to the door latch marking up your extension jamb? I have the same problem and it's beginning to bug me.

Thanks,

CJ

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post #54 of 419 Old 02-23-2009, 07:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi CJ,

I have not successfully figured out the latch problem yet. But, I plan to replace the current hollow core door with a solid core one. Since the jamb is in place, I'll get a slab. I plan to (hope to) drill out the door knob hole a bit further away from the door edge, maybe an 1/8" or so to the left in the pic, then the latch will hopefully miss the extension but still catch the strikeplate.?. I haven't given it a lot of thought recently, but that may work.

I also think a blank plate would work as the easiest solution if you already have your keeper door in place. Not sure of the aesthetic appeal of two strikeplates, though. Probably wouldn't notice it much.

For the longest time, I intended to thank you for the rolling storage shelf idea you posted in your thread. I've learned a few things from your HT build and the shelf is a great idea as well. I built one way back in the summer when I started the cleanout for my room. At 6'Hx8'Wx2'D I think I made it WAY too big, though. One of my spring projects will be to cut it in half.

I post an update on the door when I get back to it. Good luck with your door.

Thanks

Audio: Marantz AV7702mkII / Marantz MM8077 / Emotiva UPA-7 for 7.2.4 Atmos/DTS:X
Video: Sony VPL-VW600ES & SI Black Diamond 133" 2.35:1 CIH for 4K UHD
Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Mede8er 600d with Synology ds716 NAS (28tb), PS4, DirecTV
7. Paradigm Studio 20 v5 (L, R, FW), CC-590 v5 (C), Sonance VP63 (SS); 2. DIYSG DA HO 18" (4); PSA S3000i (3); 4! Infinity Entra One (FH), Sonance VP65R (TR)
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post #55 of 419 Old 02-23-2009, 08:10 AM
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Be aware of the length of the backset in the lockset. Most are either 2 3/8" or 2 3/4"

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post #56 of 419 Old 02-23-2009, 08:29 AM - Thread Starter
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I hadn't thought about this. Looks like most standard interior backsets are 2 3/8". If thats the case with my door, moving back an additional 3/8" to 2 3/4" would probably be too much. Seems like the blank strikeplate or something esle I haven't thought of yet. Any suggestions?

Thanks

Audio: Marantz AV7702mkII / Marantz MM8077 / Emotiva UPA-7 for 7.2.4 Atmos/DTS:X
Video: Sony VPL-VW600ES & SI Black Diamond 133" 2.35:1 CIH for 4K UHD
Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Mede8er 600d with Synology ds716 NAS (28tb), PS4, DirecTV
7. Paradigm Studio 20 v5 (L, R, FW), CC-590 v5 (C), Sonance VP63 (SS); 2. DIYSG DA HO 18" (4); PSA S3000i (3); 4! Infinity Entra One (FH), Sonance VP65R (TR)
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post #57 of 419 Old 02-23-2009, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjlewie View Post

Hi CJ,For the longest time, I intended to thank you for the rolling storage shelf idea you posted in your thread. I've learned a few things from your HT build and the shelf is a great idea as well. I built one way back in the summer when I started the cleanout for my room. At 6'Hx8'Wx2'D I think I made it WAY too big, though. One of my spring projects will be to cut it in half.

I post an update on the door when I get back to it. Good luck with your door.

Thanks

Hey, thanks for the props! That's really cool. Good to know someone is getting something out of it.

I made mine way too big as well. I forgot the rule of shelving...if the space is open, it'll get filled. I cut mine down and made fixed shelves out of them. I'll redo the rolling shelves when I clean out some of the junk from the storage room.

CJ

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post #58 of 419 Old 03-16-2009, 09:11 AM - Thread Starter
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I finished my soffit framing by working my way around and down the drain pipe. Took a bit of noodling (actually, just standing there with pen and napkin wondering how in the heck to finish) but I came up with this...













From the seating area looking to the screenwall


From the screenwall looking to the seating area


Building soffits took longer than I thought it would. New lesson learned. Don't buy 2x2s until you're ready to use them. With all of life's other demands I knew I would only be able to work on the soffits on the weekends. I didn't want to spend part of my work time at a jam packed Lowe's so I stopped by during the week for soffit material. I've read a number of posts about wood warping if left sitting for a few days. I had the lumber guy get the forklift and bring down a new pallet of 2x2s. They were straight as an arrow, bundled in sets of four. Didn't matter - withing hours of cutting the straps the 2x2s started to twist and contort nearly to the point of being unusable. I wanted square soffits so it took a few trips back and forth to get fresh 2x2s. Lesson learned.

Audio: Marantz AV7702mkII / Marantz MM8077 / Emotiva UPA-7 for 7.2.4 Atmos/DTS:X
Video: Sony VPL-VW600ES & SI Black Diamond 133" 2.35:1 CIH for 4K UHD
Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Mede8er 600d with Synology ds716 NAS (28tb), PS4, DirecTV
7. Paradigm Studio 20 v5 (L, R, FW), CC-590 v5 (C), Sonance VP63 (SS); 2. DIYSG DA HO 18" (4); PSA S3000i (3); 4! Infinity Entra One (FH), Sonance VP65R (TR)
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post #59 of 419 Old 03-16-2009, 09:48 AM - Thread Starter
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I spent some time on my projector box and lighting plan. The front and rear soffits are built completely inside the room so I don't need sound isolation boxes for my recessed lights. My screwed together soffits came in handy here as all I had to do was pop off the side or bottom.







I ordered my sconces and grafik eye late last week so lighting is progressing.

For my projector box, I used Makeit57's work as inspiration:


The one variation is that I want to make the front panel and protruding portion of the bottom panel out of fabric panels for improved ventilation. Since they should be relatively lightweight, I plan to attach the panels with velcro. Seems like something is missing as I look at my work. What do you think?




The outlets in the rear of the box from left to right are for the rope light, projector/fan (if needed), and future star ceiling. The conduit is for LV. I'm a bit concerned about having two dimmable outlets near my projector outlet as a future owner may plug the projector into the wrong outlet. Any suggestions on how to deal with this? Warning labels for each outlet? Lutron has an outlet solution that replaces a standard outlet and plug so that only what you intend can be plugged in, but its like $65 per outlet.

Audio: Marantz AV7702mkII / Marantz MM8077 / Emotiva UPA-7 for 7.2.4 Atmos/DTS:X
Video: Sony VPL-VW600ES & SI Black Diamond 133" 2.35:1 CIH for 4K UHD
Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Mede8er 600d with Synology ds716 NAS (28tb), PS4, DirecTV
7. Paradigm Studio 20 v5 (L, R, FW), CC-590 v5 (C), Sonance VP63 (SS); 2. DIYSG DA HO 18" (4); PSA S3000i (3); 4! Infinity Entra One (FH), Sonance VP65R (TR)
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post #60 of 419 Old 03-18-2009, 10:28 AM - Thread Starter
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I finished getting all of the drywall up except for the face of my soffits before running out of green glue. When calculating my original order, I did not account for the soffits. The entire shell of the room is DD, GG and decoupled other than the upper right side so I really only need to use GG on that portion of the soffit but like the rest of this overbuild, I'll use it on all the soffits.

While waiting for my GG, I'm pondering the finish of my soffit face. My original plan calls for a drywalled face with stained wood molding for rope lights. Now, I'm wondering how a finished face of stained wood with the wooden molding would look? Yes, I'm a long checklist away from "finishing", but now I can see the room taking shape (instead of just sketchup or my imagination) and it has me wondering...

Here is the eventual screen wall from the seating area. There is 39" of depth behind the planned screen. Even though I already have a 16:9 screen, I planning for a AT scope screen at some point


Here is the right side of the room - this is the one soffit that completes the shell of the room


Here is the rear of the room


Here is the left side...


Looking around the room, I'm very glad guam suggested this orientation. Thanks for that. I think it will be much better than my first orientaion - you can see it below




Thanks

Audio: Marantz AV7702mkII / Marantz MM8077 / Emotiva UPA-7 for 7.2.4 Atmos/DTS:X
Video: Sony VPL-VW600ES & SI Black Diamond 133" 2.35:1 CIH for 4K UHD
Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Mede8er 600d with Synology ds716 NAS (28tb), PS4, DirecTV
7. Paradigm Studio 20 v5 (L, R, FW), CC-590 v5 (C), Sonance VP63 (SS); 2. DIYSG DA HO 18" (4); PSA S3000i (3); 4! Infinity Entra One (FH), Sonance VP65R (TR)
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