Saga of the "Old Vic" - Page 40 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1171 of 1189 Old 12-25-2015, 11:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Merry Christmas everyone...

Quote:
Originally Posted by danwee View Post
Read it once more and got 90% of what you said. Some questions.

1.When you order roller tubes you have to get them from somfy or can you use something cheap from the local hardware store?
2. What do you think using a stepping motor instead of expensive somfy motor.
3.Instead of crossing the bungys at midway channel, why didn't you just swap the channels on the opposite end?

Thanks.
Danwee, there is lots of information (and debate) about the differences between zooming and using and anamorphic lens elsewhere on the forum. With the advent of 4K and bright, high contrast projectors the advantages of going Anamorphic are dwindling but essentially it allows for maximum projector resolution and squeezes some extra brightness out of a projector.

As for your questions:
1. I obtained the rollers from (random) blind dealer on the web. I can't remember the name off the top of my head. All you need is the right size of Aluminium tubing and some strong double sided sticky tape to attach the end of fabric. Make sure you retain at least one wrap minimum to prevent the fabric from pulling off.
2. I was originally going to use a stepper motor and build a control circuit. The decision is one of effort vs reward... the Somfy motors can remember 5 different stops and are simple to automate. The equivalent stepper motor control circuitry/software would be quite complex and probably just as expensive, if not more so. If you want just two positions/aspect ratios (open and closed) then an external sensor to detect the stop position would simplify things. The beauty of the Somfy system is multiple stops/aspect ratios, quick setup and easy programming/control.
3. If I understand what you are saying correctly then this might work so long as you get enough stretch (and recall "pull") out of the short bungy cord. My design was to create a constant pull over the entire range of movement. If the bungy is too short, it wont pull strong enough at the minimum aspect ratio... the longer the bungy the more constant the recall force.

Hope this helps...

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post #1172 of 1189 Old 12-27-2015, 09:40 PM
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Thanks Moggie.
Regarding the 3rd question, what I wanted to say was something like depicted in the sketch I draw.
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post #1173 of 1189 Old 12-28-2015, 08:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danwee View Post
Thanks Moggie.
Regarding the 3rd question, what I wanted to say was something like depicted in the sketch I draw.
Ok, I see what you are saying. Sure this would work but the masks will be at different heights. Be careful, if a mask is too far away from the surface of the screen you will get a shadow and a less than clean edge to the side of the image.

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post #1174 of 1189 Old 12-31-2015, 05:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post
Ok, I see what you are saying. Sure this would work but the masks will be at different heights. Be careful, if a mask is too far away from the surface of the screen you will get a shadow and a less than clean edge to the side of the image.
OK. Got it.
Thanks a lot.
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post #1175 of 1189 Old 12-31-2015, 05:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post
Ok, I see what you are saying. Sure this would work but the masks will be at different heights. Be careful, if a mask is too far away from the surface of the screen you will get a shadow and a less than clean edge to the side of the image.
OK. Got it.
Thanks a lot.
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post #1176 of 1189 Old 01-09-2016, 02:49 PM
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Is there pad on the vertical carpet areas?

Hi @Moggie
Hope you had a Happy New Year, but I'm sure you took barely a breath of relaxation due to the whole house reno you have ongoing ;-)

Quick question: for the vertical parts of your riser that are carpeted, I assume there is no pad there, correct? Just wanted to ask to be sure. I'm going to have a few removable panels in two different areas of my riser to ensure I can access and replace the strip lights in case anything ever fails, and I want to plan for the thickness of the carpeted sides and such.

Thanks again for all the great info from your thread.
-Terry
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post #1177 of 1189 Old 01-10-2016, 01:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texpilot View Post
Quick question: for the vertical parts of your riser that are carpeted, I assume there is no pad there, correct? Just wanted to ask to be sure. I'm going to have a few removable panels in two different areas of my riser to ensure I can access and replace the strip lights in case anything ever fails, and I want to plan for the thickness of the carpeted sides and such.
Hi Terry, no padding is used in the vertical (riser/step) are of the carpeting, just the horizontal surfaces. If you are planning access panels in the carpet then you want to be careful with fraying at the edges over time. I believe there is a tape/adhesive to help prevent this.

And yes, the whole house remodel is killing me... trying to bend a walnut stair railing at the moment. I'm having to build a wood steamer to be able to bend at the desired radius

Cheers!

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post #1178 of 1189 Old 12-03-2016, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post

Hey Moogie, what kind of material is the black one below the stage, is this some sort of rubber for decoupling it from the OSB bottom?

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post #1179 of 1189 Old 12-06-2016, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starcat View Post
Hey Moogie, what kind of material is the black one below the stage, is this some sort of rubber for decoupling it from the OSB bottom?
Looks like felt paper.

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post #1180 of 1189 Old 03-08-2017, 01:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BllDo View Post
Looks like felt paper.
Wow, over a year in answering (and a blatant bump).

Yes, it's #30 roofing felt. Good as a vapor barrier and well as having some cushioning ability to help with sealing. It may have some minor isolation value too.

Cheers!

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post #1181 of 1189 Old 03-08-2017, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post
Wow, over a year in answering (and a blatant bump).

Yes, it's #30 roofing felt. Good as a vapor barrier and well as having some cushioning ability to help with sealing. It may have some minor isolation value too.

Cheers!
This is always worth a bump for those new members!

Well done for the umptenth time Moggie!
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post #1182 of 1189 Old 03-12-2017, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post
I finally have a workable solution for my interior hush box fan. The previous in-line fan was hopeless, so I purchased the quietest bathroom fan I could find (the Panasonic FV08VQ3) and promptly tore it apart. I discarded the metal box, the grill, one mounting plate and the one-way valve and reassembled inside my sealed MDF box. The fan assembly was mounted directly to the original exhaust duct with sheet metal screws (for the square to round hole transition). Then this was suspended using neoprene mounts inside the box. Once the bottom cover was attached the fan creates a vacuum and pulls in air through the 5" intake pipe that leads to my hush box. At about 75% speed it is completely silent. At 100% I can just make out that it is running. My non-scientific test (using my aviation air speed indicator) suggests I can pull up to 75cfm which I believe is sufficient. I'm so glad I didn't have to rework the soffit to fit the fan outside the room.



I wasn't sure this was going to work -- but it did!
All,
I asked Paul in an IM what he used to control the fan speed and trigger the fan on/off. For everyone's benefit, here is his reply:

Quote:
1. speed control is via a cheap fan speed controller like this one (you will often find them for controlling duct fans / attic fans). I think I found mine on ebay for about $9.

2. Switching on/off is done via a thermostat designed for fans / vents. Like this one. There may well be cheaper ones. I used one in my hush box and another in the rack closet. You set the level so the fan is off at normal room temperatures and switches on as the temp increases via the projector warming.
With my Fantech FG4 fan quite loud mechanically even inside my hush box and dialed way down in speed, I am soooooooo considering going with a Panasonic exhaust fan teardown approach like this!
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post #1183 of 1189 Old 03-13-2017, 08:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texpilot View Post
With my Fantech FG4 fan quite loud mechanically even inside my hush box and dialed way down in speed, I am soooooooo considering going with a Panasonic exhaust fan teardown approach like this!
Indeed... although the Fantech is a great fan it is not at all quiet. Four years on, my "Panasonic experiment" is still working great and was the only option I found given that I had to fit it inside of my theater soffit.

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post #1184 of 1189 Old 03-21-2017, 01:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiovideoholic View Post
This is always worth a bump for those new members!

Well done for the umptenth time Moggie!
Ditto.
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post #1185 of 1189 Old 11-16-2017, 09:11 AM
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The new "Saga of the Old Vic", courtesy of Kevin Spacey. https://www.usatoday.com/story/life/...ior/869539001/

The only benefit I found from this article was pictures of the actual Old Vic theater you were talking about in the first post.

I hope all is well, Paul!
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post #1186 of 1189 Old 11-18-2017, 04:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Oh dear! Given the news, I was just thinking what an unfortunate name I gave to my thread and how many folks might accidentally be redirected here. So funny when your reply came in!

Everything is good. Enjoying the theater and my NAS is now completely full of movies. I'll have to start deleting some

- Paul.

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post #1187 of 1189 Old 08-12-2018, 05:29 PM
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Moggie, any updates, how is your theater going?

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post #1188 of 1189 Old 01-04-2019, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post
Quote:Originally Posted by wjr858

First off, I have been following your theater build from the beginning.

...

There is life and, for you, there will be theater building after meniscus surgery! Best of luck to you.


Thanks for the support (and I thought there were only 6 people and my mum following this build!). I passed through El Cajon in February on my Paramotoring trip..

Quote:Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte

What size & model of lights are those? Non-IC? I've been looking for some 2" or 3" incandescent lights for my soffit, so far came up empty, everything I find is LED. And where did you get them? I like the way you mounted them too, I've been wondering how to go about it, since I've been planning on leaving the bottom of my soffit open for fiberglass / bass trapping, and cover with cloth. I think I could something similar.


Hi Brad, the lights are from Home Depot. They are very cheap and decent quality (I needed 20!). Check this link. They are 3" halogens and NOT IC rated but do come with a can with spring clips that lock it into the cutout. I think they are available in white, silver and bronze but I've seen other people take them apart and spray paint them. I mounted mine in the light tray that extends from the "open" soffit. There is no insulation in the tray and I was careful to keep them at least 3/4" from any vertical surfaces. Fitting is simple but requires a precise cutout -- I used a router and template.

Oh, one other thing to note is that if you mount them in a tray you will get some light spill through the holes in the can. I'm making sure the lips on the tray are tall enough to hide them.
Hello Moggie
Happy new year.
I have some questions about soffit lighting.
Why you went for the incandescent can lights instead of LED recessed lights? And for the light tray, why you chose rope lights instead of LED strips? Any specific reason?
Sorry if you already mentioned it somewhere and I missed it.
Thanks.
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post #1189 of 1189 Old 01-11-2019, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danwee View Post
Hello Moggie
Happy new year.
I have some questions about soffit lighting.
Why you went for the incandescent can lights instead of LED recessed lights? And for the light tray, why you chose rope lights instead of LED strips? Any specific reason?
Sorry if you already mentioned it somewhere and I missed it.
Thanks.
Considering this was built 9 years ago LED lights were not a viable option back then.

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