What would you do with a 12'3" x 22'7" Theater Room? - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 12 Old 06-04-2009, 10:12 PM - Thread Starter
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I already started my Theater Build thread (see signature), but I was thinking I should put the raw room specs up here and see if you guys had any suggestions before I lock myself into my design.

The room is 12'3" wide and 22'7" long. The room-length soffits are required to hide HVAC on one side and drain lines on the other. One column is required to hide the main drain line, so I mirrored it on the other side. Looking at the floorplan, the bottom and left walls are 2x4 framed over exterior concrete. The right side mates with the steps. The top wall is the main load-bearing wall that runs the entire length of the basement and separates the theater from the rec/living room. I think the room size is pretty much fixed without some serious re-engineering.

I already moved the door from the back of the room to 9' from the front (left) wall as shown on the floorplan and the other drawings to allow a full-room-width riser in the back.

I'd like 2 rows of seating with at least one 4-wide row. I was thinking 3-wide front and 4-wide back. Since the room is so narrow, I'm thinking a 2.35:1 AT screen on a false screen wall to keep the screen as large as possible.

My initial speaker setup is meager compared to a most on here, but it's what I'm going to start with. Boston VR950 Fronts, VR910 Center, VRS Dipole surrounds (mount on columns), PV600 10" down-firing sub, rear surround speakers TBD.

Finally, I'm leaning towards the Panasonic AE3000U projector.



Front/Right

Top/3D


-John
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post #2 of 12 Old 06-05-2009, 05:47 AM
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9 ft deep riser, 2 1/2 ft for screen wall, First row viewing distance of 11 feet.
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post #3 of 12 Old 06-05-2009, 06:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

9 ft deep riser, 2 1/2 ft for screen wall, First row viewing distance of 11 feet.

I was originally planning a 6' deep riser, but I had been wondering if deeper might make more sense, especially when I saw that 6'6" was the recommended minimum for reclining theater chairs. So, that leaves 2'6" of riser not taken up by the chairs. Would you split that 1'6" in front of the chairs so you can still get around the footrests and 1' behind them so they're not directly against the back wall?

One more question, 2'6" to front, or back of screen wall? My current speakers should fit either way, but I don't want to severely limit future expansion.

Thanks!

-John
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post #4 of 12 Old 06-05-2009, 09:02 AM
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I think The Pro Sound design experts recommend a couple of feet or more of space behind the back row of seating. So when I said 9 ft that meant the back of the chair is 6 1/2 to 7 ft from the front lip.

The 2 1/2 ft for the front wall is just a SWAG, I'm not familiar with the dimensions of your speakers or what you might want in the future. When you build your space you should think of your fabric false wall as temporary for now and that you might move it for HT2.0, Build your stage base plenty big so that you can make the adjustments. Of course that means you might want to carpet the stage before you put up the false wall framing and panels.

You didn't mention screen size so if an 11 ft viewing distance is too tight for the first row make the riser 8 ft instead, easy because it is one sheet size.

WHERE DO YOU PLAN ON PUTTING YOUR EQUIPMENT?
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post #5 of 12 Old 06-05-2009, 09:08 AM
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As a design consideration I would think about running your soffit around the entire perimeter of the room. Adding cornice molding and rope light for indirect up lighting.

You could also do a star-field on the ceiling.
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post #6 of 12 Old 06-05-2009, 09:35 AM
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One thing I notice is that your length dimension is close to twice the width dimension, which could present some acoustic issues. Make sure you plan for treatment both from a space standpoint and a budget standpoint. You'll need to do the usual stuff: bass trapping in the corners and on the back wall, then higher frequency panels at the reflection points.

Frank

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post #7 of 12 Old 06-05-2009, 09:58 PM
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If you go false wall you can replace your center speaker to make your front 3 identical. Other than that it looks good to me
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post #8 of 12 Old 06-06-2009, 11:09 AM
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My room is 12'6" wide and 20' deep.

I built a 6' deep riser and it works great. My seating is at 13' and 19' (rear row is pretty much against the back wall - but that's for guests). I was able to fit a row of 4 chairs in the back and 3 in the front using Coaster chairs. I believe, however, that the row of 4 chairs is 12'4" wide, so it might not work for you with those chairs. Here's a couple of shots of the seating area:




I am, however, currently contemplating my first major room upgrade, by building a false front wall and going with an AT screen (current screen is fixed on the wall). This will shorten the room by 2', but I'll be keeping the seating where it is (distances will be 11' and 17')

"The dream never dies, just the dreamer."

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post #9 of 12 Old 06-06-2009, 07:39 PM - Thread Starter
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BIGmouthinDC,

I'm considering following the Maple Street Theater stage method of just building the stage in front of the screen wall and placing the speakers on sand filled MDF "blocks" behind the screen wall. Unless someone can tell me how to dry a ton of sand in Iowa. There's no such thing as "dry heat" here.

I still haven't decided if I want to connect the soffit in the back yet, but I'm definitely considering it. I'm definitely going to add crown molding and rope lighting though.

My plan for screen size is as big as I can go with the seating distances I end up with. With a 6' riser, that would be around 12'6" and 18'6" (with the rear seats against the back wall). I'm considering extending the riser to 7'1", so the riser ends at the columns, which would put the seating at 17'5" and 11'5". Based on the Projector Central calculator that gives me around a 96-107" wide 2.39 screen (rounding up of course ).

I'm pretty sure the AV rack will end up in the closet under the steps behind the back wall of the theater, though I might mount the DVD, Wii, and future BluRay player in the screen wall somewhere, so I don't have to leave the theater to change discs.

Weasel9992,

Initial plans are to build superchunks for the two vertical corners and the wall to ceiling corner behind the screen wall, plus cover the rest of that wall with the same 2" fiberglass. I'll probably build them after the room is set up and running though. I believe they're needed, but I want to hear the difference as I take each step to improve the room's acoustics. Must be the engineer in me.

gobrigavitch,

I'm initially going to put the center channel vertical (as I saw suggested on here somewhere) and see how it goes. When I eventually upgrade the speakers, I'll go the 3 matched fronts route.

Stew4msu,

My only concern with the front row being only 3 seats wide is that I have 2 kids that are gonna fight for that 3rd seat!

Anyone got an opinion between the Panasonic AE3000U and Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 6500UB?

-John
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post #10 of 12 Old 06-06-2009, 08:00 PM
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I've seen the Panny in action. does a good job with the poor man's CIH set up for 2.39. https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=938346

Make the riser 7'1" you won't regret it. Mark (Tupalev) made his 6 ft and now has his front row sitting 6 inches in front of the riser.
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post #11 of 12 Old 06-06-2009, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skeeterfood View Post

Unless someone can tell me how to dry a ton of sand in Iowa. There's no such thing as "dry heat" here.

You can either start out with dry bagged sand that has been stored inside.

Or, you spread it out on the floor in February and turn off the humidifier.
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post #12 of 12 Old 06-07-2009, 03:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skeeterfood View Post

Initial plans are to build superchunks for the two vertical corners and the wall to ceiling corner behind the screen wall, plus cover the rest of that wall with the same 2" fiberglass. I'll probably build them after the room is set up and running though. I believe they're needed, but I want to hear the difference as I take each step to improve the room's acoustics. Must be the engineer in me.

Very, very smart.

Frank

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