I ended up having the contractor pull both layers from the ceiling and start over there, while adding a 3rd layer on the walls. Of course, with proper GG application and supervision. I was good with that approach and it saved me 5/8" height.
The drywall joint results are significantly better than the first go 'round. I took a sharpie to the original second layer and marked up the theater room with over 20 defects - they addressed them all. Progress is slow, but I hope they catch stride after getting past demo and re-build. (so glad they took the dumpster away today)
With that...the pics
Theater side of entrance, door hinge side with that 3rd layer
Due to expanding soils we have to "float" basement walls per county code. I was planning to do what BlackBanshee did with MLV, but the drywall sub said the inspectors will let this pass. I hope so - it saves me time and money.
Soffit framing - rear wall
Looking towards front left corner - I am still at one with my pole
After a little drywall..
After putting the flex duct in the soffit framing - very tight fit getting through the corners due to the way they framed
Going to build an "open" hush box
Looking towards rear wall
From this angle your can see the OSB + DD + GG approach for the main hvac trunk - hope this helps
I'm glad we went from this...
While the light layout came from the renders (next post). I need to make sure the contractor understands/marks the location of the Atmos speakers before they start framing the inner soffit.
won't a 2x2 for the lip block an LED light strip? I need to change this part of the plan...I've saved a bunch of previous alternatives. Any suggestions/favorite approaches?