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DIY construction methods of hang-able acoustic panels & moveable Corner traps (not fixed frames)

232K views 192 replies 44 participants last post by  EpicFirth 
#1 · (Edited)
Background:
I've been thinking to make a separate thread on the DIY construction methods of hang-able acoustic panels, that can be located specifically only where needed.
Also moveable as your speaker type/location changes, your treatment needs may change.
Currently none exist that give a really good start-finish, I've searched AVS forum.

Just these for Fabric frames, which are integrated as part of the wall itself, not hanging and specific locatable.
(these are great threads btw for those whole wall coverage methods)
Fabric Frames - GPowers Thread , Another Fabric Frame Thread - Canvas Stretcher Bars

In my viewpoint, the Acoustical Treatments Master Thread is more for the theory, science, and practical application for acoustics of your particular room situation/issue, not the DIY construction methods, that will clutter it too much.

This thread purpose is NOT what your rooms acoustic needs are, rather once you study, plan, and develop your rooms acoustic needs, how to go about building it yourself.
[edit] since making this thread some specific acoustic issues have been discussed and addressed, however there are other more suitable threads for the theory, think of this as the application thread.

So, here it is, a dedicated thread for DIY construction methods of hang-able acoustic panels, to start I plan on sharing what I've done:
-DIY side wall absorption panels construction and hanging, http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=19947559#post19947559


-DIY ceiling absorption panels panels construction and hanging
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=19987283#post19987283 and http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=20074007#post20074007



-Here is removable lower tri-corner superchunk bass trap made with 1/2-13 thd rod and OC705, from post #40 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=19993984#post19993984
and Upper tri-corner bass traps (since I made these it's been proven via gas flow resistivity its best for deep traps like these to use pink fluffy)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=20085872#post20085872

Eric helped with his pink fluffy version of my movable corner bass traps
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...er-traps-not-fixed-frames-5.html#post22131618 .

Discussion related to corner bass traps; gas flow resistivity, why cover them to reflect mid-high's, etc


others in this thread:
-smokarz built his own side wall 2' x 4' panels, post #36 here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=19993492#post19993492


-localhost127 built his own side wall 4" thick 2' x 4' panels with exposed sides for more absorption , post # 86 here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=20271296#post20271296



There are already "fixed" bass trap threads, here are links to them.
AVS site:

Show us your custom made corner bass traps (pics)
(btw, as of 2/5/0-11 pepar updated his pict links, I need chinaclipper and pred02 to do same )
Other site:
Gearslutz.com, here is a link to their "How I built my bass (broadband) traps..." sticky, over 31 pages of info!
http://www.gearslutz.com/board/bass-traps-acoustic-panels-foam-etc/87464-how-i-built-my-bass-traps.html

I added my own twist to building corner superchunk with "green" material, some might like a different approach.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=20588838#post20588838

I'd like others who make DIY hang-able acoustic panels, whether absorption, diffusion, reflection, etc. to also feel free to add your construction techniques/methods there.
>>We need to learn from you!

[edit Feb 2, 2011]
placeholder for those already done DIY hang-able acoustic panels-pm me your details and I'll post link here

Side note:
I have this general suggestion for those wanting to learn about acoustics:

A) read this Acoustics/Treatment Reference Guide , via gearslutz, its a easy read in layman terms, starts you off with basics and good foundation with practical discussion. Studio acoustics and Home Theater acoustics.
From that, simple/straight forward advice via Jens Eklund:
Quote:

1. Learn how to make measurements: REW - Room EQ Wizard Home Page
Don’t do anything without measurements.

2. Define your MLP (Master listening position). Confirm with measurements.

3. Identify and treat your modal and SBIR - Speaker Boundary Interference Response related issues and educate yourself about different bass-absorbing techniques.
Other info: SBIR by Bryan Pape

4. Treat areas that otherwise creates early reflections.

5. If the room is big enough, add diffusers

Always base your decisions regarding different treatment, on measurements. Avoid thin porous only absorbers (including wall to wall –carpet, drapes etc.) unless a measurement indicates the need for it.


B) Knowing that for “best” audio/sound in a listening room, these parameters are tackled in prioritized order:
1. Speaker location, 2. Listener position, 3. Acoustic treatments, 4. Electronic correction.
Understand the small room acoustic model you will follow.
Looking at this link, everyone can see visually the various small room models, it's 7 pages from the book "Acoustics and Psychoacoustics Applied"
http://eetimes.com/design/audio-desi...n?pageNumber=0

C) If you have desire for more knowledge:
-read one of many books out there, a great 1st book is "Master Handbook of Acoustics" by F. Alton Everest, a perfect follow-up book is "Sound Reproduction: The Acoustics and Psychoacoustics of Loudspeakers and Rooms" by Floyd Toole.
-shameless plug for Ethan Winers book also, "The Audio Expert".
.. ..

-study Ethan Winers site, http://www.ethanwiner.com/acoustics.html
-Become familiar with the different small room acoustic models for home listening spaces
-This is also a 101 read on Room Acoustics, http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/learningcenter/home/speakers_roomacoustics.html
-SAE Home Acoustics info site has many definitions and explanations http://www.sae.edu/reference_material/audio/pages/fullindex.htm
-There are many other sites on the web, like
........One of the first ones, StudioTips small room acoustics forum http://forum.studiotips.com/index.php,
........Acoustical measurements defined Rives audio http://www.positive-feedback.com/Issue12/rives2.htm,
........RPG Acoustics Library papers http://www.rpginc.com/news/library.htm, etc.
-Be careful of info overload all at once

D) Measurement info/threads:

-online downloadable file with the Sound System Engineering chapter 6 on measurements http://www.focalpress.com/uploadedFiles/Books/Book_Media/Audio/9780240808307.pdf
-Get the hardware side of REW down quickly, this thread by member omegaslast dummy's guide on setting up REW and his blog http://polaraudio.blogspot.com/2012/01/calibration.html easy 101 read with pictures to walk you thru the mechanical of set-up and taking measurements
-Highly recommend Nyal Mellor's site, http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/Aco...surements.html , and a very detailed/helpful white paper http://blog.acousticfrontiers.com/st...ist.%20Rms.pdf
-Room Measurement & Treatment by "fotto" (Floyd)

- Envelope Time Curve - ETC - Impulse gearslutz thread
-Using energy time curve for acoustic analysis: by "mtbdudex" (Mike R)
-Why just using 1" thick porous absorber treatment is "wrong" http://www.avsforum.com/t/1369498/early-reflection-panel-thickness
-http://www.avsforum.com/t/1421599/etc-isd-gap-question ETC - ISD gap by
-Basic acoustic measurement primer v2.1 (via gearslutz "DanDan")
-http://www.realtraps.com/art_measuring.htm

-http://www.avsforum.com/t/1316623/d...poster-acoustic-panels-cheap/60#post_20147783 DIY Custom-Printed Movie Poster Acoustic Panels
-first reflection software: http://www.avsforum.com/t/822273/fr...our-first-reflection-points/240#post_22619555
-a while back I downloaded this Measurement/calibration sequence from Dennis Erskine.
RoomMeasurementSet-up.zip 4.990234375k . file
 

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#27 ·
Home Theater Ceiling Acoustic "Cloud" - Part II


Showing detail of T and L braces, I was worried about hanging and wanted some insurance for rock solid box.

Note: I drilled and pre-installed all J-hooks, so after the fabric was wrapped I just had to find the hole and re-install them.

Plus, gave exact placement for ceiling transfer of matching locations.



One side stapled taught.



Flip up on edge, now its a 2 person job, my wife pulled down to keep the fabric taught while I stappled.

I should state I was worried about wrinkles, I pulled slightly lengthwise on each end and put 2 temp staples to keep tension longwise for no wrinkles, it worked.



Finish stapling, it's like wrapping a big Christmas gift, keeping the material taught so no wrinkles is the secret.



Edges wrapped like a box gift, this is ceiling side so "perfection" not needed here, still want a secure wrap.



Black hooks and chain waiting for the big box.

Hopefully all the measurements were transferred to ceiling correct, holes drilled correct, etc. Measure 3 times, drill once.



Ta-da! My wife and I hung the panel this morning, here is my youngest son checking it out. 2 ladders, and attaching the far side chain first, then the near side chain.



here is pict from rear of theater, only once did my drill go too far and the chuck "bit" into the ceiling drywall, I spackled and painted that since this pict.

My boy wants to know everything dad is doing and why....luv the guy so much!



The projector beam exits @ 13" from the ceiling, and the screen top edge (image edge) is @ 18" from the ceiling.

This panel is 4" thick and almost 12" from ceiling at the bottom, I hung it low for more bass trapping, and also atheistically its same as the LH side soffit.

The pj light beam is about 2 1 /2 inched below this trap here, so no interference.


Note for other future HT builders:

Consider ceiling light locations relative to speaker location for possible 1st order acoustic treatments......

This 2nd row ceiling treatment catches some of the light from those 3 can lights, but its not so bad.

However, my 1st row - possible acoustic ceiling cloud, would block all 3 lights, so I'll need to address that at later date.


Next up: removable corner bass traps - I need to clean in back of those chairs, only way is removable bass traps.

Here my "prototype", a 24" x 24" x 37" triangle and a 17" x 17" x 24" triangle from pink foam board.

Confirming how high I can go with the bigger/deeper triangle before the sconce (about 5' 6" or so), then will use the smaller size up to the ceiling.
 
#29 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz
nicely done.


i must say, your carpet is mesmerzing...
Thx, it felt good to get the cloud done and hung.


The carpet, we liked the HT theme in it, and at the time our walls were bare.

Plus, there are some reds/blues in it if we wanted to use those for wall accent colors in some future re-do....

Thx for remining me, I owe the guy who sold me the carpet a HT picture, and was waiting for my acoustic panels to go up before taking one....just my 1st row couch is getto and due for replacement April when bonus checks come in.


Returning stuff at Home Depot during lunch, I was studying how to do removable corner bass traps.

I bought some handrail and may "play" with that this weekend.


While my side wall hanging frame panels are fresh in my mind, I saw 2 possible methods/options for others to consider:


1) Use steel stud frame instead of wood.

3 5/8" wide, easy to make a box, and the edges would naturally grab the fiberboard.

Of course you'd want to wrap them with the fabric material, unless you wanted a industrial look and painted them instead.

Bonus: They have some holes in the sides so you'd get some "extra" absorption, or more closely match the test specs since I've read their absorption Coefficients @ various hz are done on panels totally exposed, edges included.


2) Use Glass block plastic channel instead of wood.

4" wide, easy to make a box, and the edges would naturally grab the fiberboard. These are exactly 48" tall, perfect for 2' x 4' sheet, 3 needed per panel.


Possible rivits to hold the channels to each other, with an inner angle channel if needed?

First make the box and see how sturdy it would be before adding reinf.


Steel studs....................................................... ..glass block channel
...



I'd like to see how other DIY'rs have done theirs, so far nobody has PM'd me anything....


Guess once they make their's they move onto other things and don't read these threads, since not on their mindset.
 
#168 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz
nicely done.

i must say, your carpet is mesmerzing...


Thx, it felt good to get the cloud done and hung.

The carpet, we liked the HT theme in it, and at the time our walls were bare.
Plus, there are some reds/blues in it if we wanted to use those for wall accent colors in some future re-do....
Thx for remining me, I owe the guy who sold me the carpet a HT picture, and was waiting for my acoustic panels to go up before taking one....just my 1st row couch is getto and due for replacement April when bonus checks come in.

Returning stuff at Home Depot during lunch, I was studying how to do removable corner bass traps.
I bought some handrail and may "play" with that this weekend.

While my side wall hanging frame panels are fresh in my mind, I saw 2 possible methods/options for others to consider:

1) Use steel stud frame instead of wood.
3 5/8" wide, easy to make a box, and the edges would naturally grab the fiberboard.
Of course you'd want to wrap them with the fabric material, unless you wanted a industrial look and painted them instead.
Bonus: They have some holes in the sides so you'd get some "extra" absorption, or more closely match the test specs since I've read their absorption Coefficients @ various hz are done on panels totally exposed, edges included.

2) Use Glass block plastic channel instead of wood.
4" wide, easy to make a box, and the edges would naturally grab the fiberboard. These are exactly 48" tall, perfect for 2' x 4' sheet, 3 needed per panel.

Possible rivits to hold the channels to each other, with an inner angle channel if needed?
First make the box and see how sturdy it would be before adding reinf.

Steel studs....................................................... ..glass block channel


I'd like to see how other DIY'rs have done theirs, so far nobody has PM'd me anything....

Guess once they make their's they move onto other things and don't read these threads, since not on their mindset.
Perfect channel. Anyone try these glass bock frames.?
 
#30 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex
.............

I'd like to see how other DIY'rs have done theirs, so far nobody has PM'd me anything....


Guess once they make their's they move onto other things and don't read these threads, since not on their mindset.


don't worry. i will upload some photos the next time i get around to working on the frames again.


so far, i managed to get 3 completed last weekend and since it's my first time doing it, i wanted to focus on trying to get it done right.
 
#31 ·
Driving home from work, after my lunch Home Depot visit, this idea came to me.


Why not use thd rod for the moveable SuperChunk design?

It could easily work, no flexing/warping ever.


Pict is pretty self explain, bottom and top are piece of wood - thick mdf comes to mind.

You can make the 3 rods "invisible" by having then @ the corners and wrapped, or you go with an "industrial look" and have the 2 outside corner ones visible. I show a rod connector in blue, since I think normal Home Depot thd rods are not 9' long.....

[edit 2-18-2011; thd rod comes in 6' length max at Home Depot / Lowes]

I'm sure with little looking I could get my hands on some from a local supply house.



Feedback, thoughts, comments?


(I used thd rod for my IB subwoofer also)
 
#32 ·
The threaded rods are good idea. You might need to cross brace them though, I'm not sure how sturdy the fill would be. Then again, being compressed between the floor and ceiling would probably keep them sturdy too. Have you thought about creating two traps and stacking them on top of each other? If you are going floor to ceiling, it might be hard to remove them. I'm trying to picture it in my head and it seems like you'd have to slide them to the edge of the riser to be able lay them flat.


You have a PM coming your way too, I have a question about your paint
.
 
#33 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by scl23enn4m3 /forum/post/19991345


The threaded rods are good idea. You might need to cross brace them though, I'm not sure how sturdy the fill would be. Then again, being compressed between the floor and ceiling would probably keep them sturdy too. Have you thought about creating two traps and stacking them on top of each other? If you are going floor to ceiling, it might be hard to remove them. I'm trying to picture it in my head and it seems like you'd have to slide them to the edge of the riser to be able lay them flat.


You have a PM coming your way too, I have a question about your paint
.

Honestly - we think alike - 5 minutes after I posted I thought the same, "how will I put this into place?".

I agree on the 2 piece design, or, making the top with a 1" gap for loading and then putting a mldg/fabric fold up there to hide it.

Since it's on my riser, which is 12" high, I could build it and load it that way w/o being constrained by the ceiling for most of it.


I learned my lesson on that 30 years ago when I was a beginning tool designer, I designed a tool to assemble 3 sheetmetal brackets onto a inner structure piece of a car.

I thought I was a "hot shot" designer, except after the parts were loaded and spotwelded, the jig could not be un-loaded! Everyone does that at least once my boss said, I was humbled and learned a valuable lesson.

Re-designed it before it was actually built (that's why there were checkers who checked junior designers work back in the day).

I'd use many-many pieces of steel/other that were in here the Central Steel Catalog...

.............................................To design machines like this - all on drafting board, this is from 1984:



sorry for trip down memory lane there, getting back to acoustic DIY panel methods.....
 
#34 ·
I never heard of Gearslutz.com until yesterday, just registered there.....kinda overloaded looking at all the acoustic stuff there.

Also I see quite a few commercial people here also over there as well, small community @ that level of expertise.


Here is a link to their "How I built my bass (broadband) traps..." sticky, over 31 pages of info!
http://www.gearslutz.com/board/bass-...ass-traps.html

(I added the above to post #1 as well)


I'll be scanning from it and post 2-3 links/images of what I'd call "easy, movable bass traps" from it here as reference.
 
#35 ·
Interesting. I wonder if there are easier methods for building frames using lightweight metal framing and screws. Or even CPVC? The Fiberglas could be made to extend over the frames and completely hide the metal. Less labor and no warping. Thoughts?
 
#36 ·
here is how i built my panels:


1 - the frames, 24"x48" with panel nails and gorilla glue





2 - instead of stapling the fabric to frame, i used a small strip of wood panel, rolled up the fabric and nailed it to the frame. i find this method a little quicker and fabric stretch more evenly.







3 - wires in the back for support, just extra precaution even though the OC 703 fits snuggly into the frame anyway.





4 - one sidewall is completed, the other still need another piece or two.


 
#38 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz /forum/post/19993535


i gotta say, these panels made a huge difference.


we watched the eagles farewell tour blu-ray again, and music just feel so tight and clear.


next up are corner bass traps. still scouting forum for diy samples/methods.

Good job making them and thx for posting!
 
#40 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz /forum/post/19993883


thanks, i am anticipating your bass trap build.

Here's what I've got so far on my rear broadband bass traps.


Each stack is (6) sheets of 2" thick 2' x 4' OC705 panels, cut 24" x 24" x 34".

The 24 triangles stack just over 48" high, I've decided to make them removable "corner tables".

The base board mldg will be removed and cut down after these done, so it will look integrated nicely.

fwiw: I have some more....Star Trek stuff to display, the 3D chess set, some ST:TOS replica phaser and tricorder, etc, collected over 20+ years.

So, the top will be nice wood, while the bottom possible mdf or even some leftover OSB I have. The 1/2 thd rod comes in 72" size.


Now, above that display zone, which will get light w/o shadows via the sconces, will either be a 17" x 17" x 24" superchunk as shown on LH side, or a more visually pleasing triangular patch as shown on RH side, tbd.

Note: That Home Depot bag on the center table has (2) blue box AC gang boxes, I was going to move those sconces today fwd about 8" so I could have floor-ceiling "big" superchunks, but by putting a table top I've decided to not to do that.


(the boys and I watched a movie last night, sorry for the clutter)


For now, actually tonight while kids sleep, now is time for me to take room measurements with REW to see how the room has responded to these added bass treatments.

I'll post that in the Master Acoustics Thread for review there by the experts.

Until I take measurements, not sure if I should leave the room side of the superchunks open for mid-hi freq, or block them with cardboard (which will let the low freq still pass thru).


I'll take measurements with them open and just put a sheet of cardboard in front of each and re-take measurements.


Regarding cutting the superchunks out of the 2' x 4' sheets, I started with the big bread knife, did 4, then tried the electric turkey knife.

My experience, the manual knife was MUCH easier to get dead straight and perpendicular lines cut, the electric knife seemed to walk on its own slightly, giving a wavy edge, not style points.



Here you can see what I'm talking about.

The bottom 4 were cut by hand/bread knife, the next 4 by electric knife.

It's not that much more time for hand/bread knife, 1st pass with edge guide sets the line, then 4 more passes holding the knife at a low 15-20 degrees gives perfect straight and perpendicular edge.

I suppose a jig could be made to ensure the electric knife is straight and perpendicular, but this manual method worked for me easily.
 
#41 ·
With REW_v5 working on my iMac - a significant upgrade from v4, Room EQ Wizard (free measurement and parametric EQ setup software) .

I decided to take measurements of the bass traps with and w/o paper to decide mid-hi freq blockage and resultant RT60 differences.


I've got more readings to take before making decision to leave the frt face unblocked


vs blocked.


before I put the fabric over them


meanwhile in the garage, via makeshift paint/infra red warm booth I'm painting the thd rods......and the attach nuts/washers




I'm hoping to have the 2 big bass traps done by this weekend, then work on the smaller/upper ones.
 
#42 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex /forum/post/20007037


meanwhile in the garage, via makeshift paint/infra red warm booth I'm painting the thd rods......and the attach nuts/washers

Lookin' good!


I look at other's construction threads and I'm SO much the "do the bare minimum" guy. I just rough up my washers with an orbital, put them out on newspaper and spray them.
 
#43 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq /forum/post/20008224


Lookin' good!


I look at other's construction threads and I'm SO much the "do the bare minimum" guy. I just rough up my washers with an orbital, put them out on newspaper and spray them.

Thx, and I'm with ya, whatever works within our time constraint.


For this, I had the boxes lying around, the big box is what my 2' x 4' panels came in, so why not do the "stinky" spraying in the garage and spare the wife/kids that smell.

Took just a few minutes to set-up.


I did the ceiling hooks in the basement bathroom with the fan on in that small box that held the washers/nuts, still the smell got out a little.
 
#44 ·
Tonight's progress:

-2nd coat of paint on the thd rod and hardware in the garage


-final cut/paint the OSB base.

I added a 1 1/4 perimeter of 3/4 OSB so the thd rod/nuts won't be resting on the floor directly. Painted green, same as walls.



-Final cut/sand/stain the birch top board



Maybe tomorrow these "Mikes Mondo Corner Bass traps" might get assembled and put into the room.

Each will weigh 50+ lbs, looking back at my original plan of 1 huge removal bass trap.....nope that's 100+ lbs of weight, glad I went "1/2 size" then an additional trap in the top corners


My boys want to climb them and jump off of them already....we need spring/summer so bad!
 
#45 ·

Good progress made today on these beasts, they are huge, big, and sturdy

(YouTube video clip will show that)


Layout the cut big triangles, cut back corner 3" x 3" 45 deg for clearance to rear thd rod



Stack 'em, trying to keep the leaning tower straight/aligned as it gets higher...



Me next to my the 4' stack, showing size of this beast.

However, mistake I made was NOT putting the rods in 1st before loading the triangles, so I had a PIA to get the rods in...lesson for #2

After fiddling here are the rods installed




I did NOT pre-cut the thd rod in the garage, had no way of knowing how much the OC705 would compress.

I actually can compress easily 1", more than 2", but the 1/2" birch ply top flexes too much at 2", I settled on 1" of compression, it felt very sturdy and solid.

Green tape for cutting spot, my wife held the rod top while I used a Dewalt 18v buzzsaw.

Load in room, check for ingress/egress of loading the trap etc.

No other issues appeared to prep for fabric covering time



[edit: note added March 2, 2011 related to using drywall edging]
Quote:
Use drywall edging on the corners for crisp edge look, lessons learned from the upper corner bass traps post #72/73 has details on that http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post20085920
Cut the mid-hi freq blocker (kraft paper here) for the front face, install and hold with simple 1 3/4" craft pins



Cut the 56" wide fabric (roll size), for this first one I cut just 3/4" extra top/bottom (to 50", compress size is 48.5 "), it worked but for the 2nd one I increased that to 1" top/bottom extra for wrapping safety.

I should say this is a GLUE-LESS/PIN-LESS build for the fabric, I just use pins for the top to start, put the top birch ply board down and compress/tighten, keeping fabric not attached, and tuck the fabric in at the bottom.



1st one "done", front face side
 
 
#46 ·
cont....


Backside looks good, needs covering



Now, the 2nd one went much quicker and smoother!

Make a 3 rod frame with base and top, gave 5" extra for loading.

This worked best for aligning the loose big triangles for flatness.



Kraft paper installed on 2nd bass trap:



Close-up showing 1" of extra material on the top before clamping down the birch ply.



2nd one done, and backside covered



Loaded into the HT room, RH side one is the 2nd one made, it came out a little better.



I'm taking measurements using REW just now....will post a few of those later as reference.

Not too much graphs here, as this is a construction thread, I'll post majority of those in the Master Acoustics thread, since I have some Q's.
 
#48 ·

Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_WI /forum/post/19983603


Very cool.

I'm interested to see your results.


Mike
Quote:
Originally Posted by myfipie /forum/post/19984031


The printing process is called Dye-sublimation. Basically the print is dyed into the fabric instead of printed on the fabric. If you print on the fabric it would clog it which would take away from the absorption.



I still need to take some pictures of it hanging in my condo.
Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq /forum/post/19984163


Here's some fabric you are supposed to be able to paint with a high pressure sprayer and it will retain its AT properties: http://www.acoustex.com/Colorcard_custom.html

I'm still waiting for you to post that picture Glenn



Update on DIY artwork acoustic fabric panels:

The printer is a HP 9000 series Designjet Low-solvent,
http://www.hp.com/united-states/desi...0/index_f.html
Quote:
Media width up to 64" wide

• High speed printing, 176 ft2/hr at 720 x 720 dpi resolution

• Low-solvent inks for longevity and durability with vivid color

• Three integrated heaters for proper ink adhesion at fast print speeds

• Take-up reel for long, unattended print runs



They are going to give me a printed 8" x 10" sample of each material, I'll do the breath test, then follow-up by nearfield speaker test without and with the material in front of my Berrigner 8000 mic. Probably not the most accurate, but the only way I can get some objective data.
 
#51 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz /forum/post/20026220


going to mount some panels to the ceiling next.


any method for flush mounting?

smokarz;

Flush meaning "fixed permenant"?

Ceiling panels....if you can suspend them a few inches they will also help with bass absorption , 1/4 wave guideline is air gap = thickness of panel for optimized return of freq's absorb vs intrusion.


How about the screw in anchors @ ats acoustics and some drywall anchors into the ceiling and 14ga wire??


If you want them totally flush, how about those nails with plastic 1 1/4 dia heads I see in the drywall area?

I'm guessing use 6/sheet, these could hold the fiberglass up to the ceiling, then you just wrap them while on the ceiling, it could be a simple job really.


Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz /forum/post/20022929


wow, looking real good mike.


i must say those bass trap are HUGE.

Huge, but managable and moveable at 50-ish lbs each, there would be NO way I'd want to make moveable floor/ceiling ones out of the big triangles (24" x 24" x 34") 100lbs+ each, that's asking for trouble!


Next up for this weekend:

The upper corner removable bass traps that will go above these, most likely they will be the "smaller" triangles 17" x 17" x 24".
 
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