Sunflower State Cinema - Page 25 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #721 of 762 Old 02-04-2017, 08:39 AM
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Sounds very cool, and easy. I'm still up in the air whether I will use irule in my new space. Like you, I like having buttons. I will probably just get the Harmony 650 to start. Sounds like you have arrived at a happy place in the HT, Grant!
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post #722 of 762 Old 02-04-2017, 08:44 AM
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Grant, I agree - I think I will always want a remote with hard buttons. I used the Harmony 900 for many years but it died so I also bought the elite a couple of months ago. It's great, does everything I need.
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post #723 of 762 Old 02-06-2017, 09:32 AM
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@jedimastergrant ,
I bought the Logitech Harmony Ultimate Home, but haven't hooked it up yet to try. I have been waiting until I move my equipment over to a new AV rack. I guess I need to get on that and get it set up. I just seen that Logitech has discontinue the model, but this probably because of the Elite is out now. I hope it will work well when set up.
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post #724 of 762 Old 02-06-2017, 05:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladeback View Post
@jedimastergrant ,
I bought the Logitech Harmony Ultimate Home, but haven't hooked it up yet to try. I have been waiting until I move my equipment over to a new AV rack. I guess I need to get on that and get it set up. I just seen that Logitech has discontinue the model, but this probably because of the Elite is out now. I hope it will work well when set up.
I have the Ultimate in my living room. It works well. They are probably just coming out with a new model since the Elite is in a different price category. The great thing about the Ultimate is the use of Wifi. And no need to have line of sight with the controller to the hub.
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post #725 of 762 Old 02-06-2017, 05:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Grant those pictures look good but I have found they look so much better with the panels off showing the full 2:35:1 screen.

Oh man I forgot to take the panels off. thanks for pointing that out. I will take more pics soon but my screen isn't even on at the moment.
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post #726 of 762 Old 02-06-2017, 05:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d_c View Post
Sounds very cool, and easy. I'm still up in the air whether I will use irule in my new space. Like you, I like having buttons. I will probably just get the Harmony 650 to start. Sounds like you have arrived at a happy place in the HT, Grant!
Yeah, that is a good remote that costs next to nothing.

I think I am at a pretty good place as far as upgrades are concerned. I plan to coast for quite some time. There are a few things I need to get straightened out regarding LFE and HDR.

But, of course I can never leave well enough alone. So my HT currently looks like this.






I am right in the middle of a black velvet project and I have made it way more difficult than it needed to be. Lets hope its worth it.
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post #727 of 762 Old 02-10-2017, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post
Yeah, that is a good remote that costs next to nothing.

I think I am at a pretty good place as far as upgrades are concerned. I plan to coast for quite some time. There are a few things I need to get straightened out regarding LFE and HDR.

But, of course I can never leave well enough alone. So my HT currently looks like this.



I am right in the middle of a black velvet project and I have made it way more difficult than it needed to be. Lets hope its worth it.

Black velvet is always worth it! And, what are those long rectangular cuts in your ceiling for?
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post #728 of 762 Old 02-10-2017, 12:33 PM
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Air vents.
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post #729 of 762 Old 02-11-2017, 09:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Black velvet is always worth it! And, what are those long rectangular cuts in your ceiling for?
Yep, air vents like Tim stated. I took the actual diffusers out which are 4x36. I thought about wrapping them in fabric but that would be tricky so I am leaning towards lining the cut outs you see in black velvet and just leaving the vents out. The disadvantage is the vents have a 15 degree slant that moves the air more towards the seats. Now I took those out of one of them in the hopes of reducing turbulence. And there was suppose to be a built in damper but it is not user friendly to operate. If I end up leaving them off then I will rely on in line dampers that are installed right near the take off further up stream.


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post #730 of 762 Old 01-07-2018, 02:08 PM - Thread Starter
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HVAC Fix!?

My original HVAC plan was budget limited so I just tied it into the existing system instead of installing a separate unit. My duct sizes and thus airflow had limitations as well. A sealed and sound isolated room puts additional constraints on an HVAC system. I fumbled the initial set up and discovered that I needed active cooling in the winter......or maybe the primary killer was simply pumping hot air into a well sealed and insulated room. The system did its job very well and heated up the room too much. So the room gets hot in the winter and I suffered through a few years of this while opening the door a few times during a show. What to do? I did not want to spend money on a ducted mini split. The most recent quote was around $7500. I did several half measures through the years and I did have some success in bringing the room down in temperature and increasing the air changes per hour. But, I still needed improvement if I was to have a full 7 seats occupied for a 2 plus hour movie.

So I needed help in temperature and air changes per hour. The air changes help bring down the humidity level dramatically. And a ducted mini split was out. Time for ghetto plan B.

I originally had 2 supplies. They are 6'' round and the diffusor grilles were 4x36''.
My original return was a single 10'' that exits to a return muffler detailed in post 350.

I purchased an in line 6'' fan from Tjerlund a few years back to experiment with room to room air change. Then this winter I added a 10'' Tjernlund in line fan into the mix to do some further experimentation. I did multiple tests with using the 6'' and the 10'' to both push and pull air into and out of the room. I also tried reversing flow completely which is what I eventually ended up with. So every combination of push pull and using both and using single and reversing flow was tested. My concerns were how much flow each one delivered and how much noise it generated.

So the end set up is a room to room air exchange consisting of the following:
-Single 10'' supply with a 10'' in line fan at low speed. The duct is located at the rear of the room. The air is taken from a room adjacent to my supply room behind the theater.
-Dual 6'' returns that are passive at this time. The ducts are located in the front of the room in the ceiling. The air exits in the supply room behind the theater. I may eventually add the 6'' fan to increase air flow but it is not needed at this time.

I noticed that the noise made by the air entering the room was dramatically louder than air exiting the room. My original 4x36 diffusors were making too much noise and not giving me enough flow. However, when I reversed flow and used them as returns it was dead quiet. Absolutely no noise whatsoever. (A 6'' round duct does about 75 cfm and a 10'' does about 300 cfm). So my 10'' duct with the in line fan was giving me a lot of flow and does so at a very low noise penalty from the MLP. Now if you are sitting in the back row right next to the duct it is audible. It really does put out a ton of flow. I am not sure how much but my air changes are dramatically improved.

I removed the grilles from both the return and supply. The 10'' duct is hidden behind the couch so it is not visible anyway. Removing the vent made a large difference. Like I said before the air it is putting out is just crazy so the vents absolutely made noise. I removed the 4x36'' diffusors when I did the velvet black out in the front part of my room and lined the duct with black velvet. It just disappears and there is no noise penalty. Win win.

The rooms I use to take air from and to put the air into are different rooms. So I am not circulating the same air.

I keep the basement really cold. I have turned off all of the vents to the basement so it is around 65 degrees down there.

And that 65 degrees is in the theater as well since the door is open when the theater is not in use. Starting at a low temperature is helpful. I have only had 3-4 people at a time so far but the hottest measured is 68 degrees so far. I am sure 7 adults and no door opening would push 70 degrees. But realistically we always open the door at least once or twice to use the bathroom or get refreshments.

I am going to post some pictures here once I figure out how to post without photo douche bucket.
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post #731 of 762 Old 01-07-2018, 05:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Edit: I'm told my pics are not working for everyone even though I can see them so I will fix them later.......

This is the supply room where the 10'' goes into the theater via the large duct muffler contained underneath of the stairwell. There was another large duct muffler located where you see the snaked insulated flex duct. In the early stages of this redo project I took it part way down planning on placing the in line fan inside and still using it as a return. But, I discovered that the insanely powerful 10'' fan has the same noise output of an F5 tornado. So I could hear the motor inside of the theater. That is when I decided to do a lot more experimentation. I added flex duct until I got to a length that I could no longer hear the motor from inside the theater. The fan is located just to the left of this picture behind the furnace.



And here is where that duct goes just to the left of the previous picture and behind the furnace.



Even though I could no longer hear the fan from inside the theater the fan was so loud that not only could I hear it from the entire basement but it was clearly audible from the second floor. So I decided to construct a fan muffler using double 5/8'' drywall and green glue that I salvaged from the duct muffler I took down.



From inside the fan muffler.



Then I found out that I also could not just make a short run from the fan to the next room where I would be taking air because it was very loud. So that meant another long run of flex duct.



This was essential for me to slow the fan down so that I could control the flow and make it inaudible at the MLP. At full tilt the fan puts out so much air that it is like a tornado. I have it turned almost all the way down and it is still a lot of air. I can turn it up in a gradual fashion and make it just barely audible. This increases the flow greatly and could be useful for large groups.




This is a rubber pad I put on the floor to decouple and decrease vibrations. It did help. But, I can still hear it from the next room and almost feel it. I can't stress enough how powerful this fan is.



Here is the duct as it continues up the wall.



And across the ceiling to the other side of the room.



And finally this is where the duct goes into the room adjacent to the storage area to pull in colder air.


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post #732 of 762 Old 01-07-2018, 06:28 PM - Thread Starter
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In summary it is really not for everyone and it took a lot of experimenting to make it work. There are so many variables and your situation will undoubtedly be different so please don't assume that a room to room air exchange will work for you. But, in my case it works extremely well and actually its a little too cold so I might open up a vent or two in the basement and make it warmer down there.

Simply taking away the active heating in the winter did wonders. And leaving the doors open to equilibrate the air with the rest of the cool basement got me a little closer still. Then the final component was getting more air changes with the in line fan and reducing the noise by reversing flow. It was a bear but it is done and it saved me at least $7500! The in line fan was $110 and the insulated duct was around $35.

I don't have pics of the 6'' returns but they just empty into the supply room. I could also place the 6'' in line fan in there but I don't need it currently.

I may end up tweaking things in the future but I am really happy at the moment.

Now if I had time I would fix some of these dead pictures. Thanks photo bucket!
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nebrunner and chirpie like this.

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post #733 of 762 Old 01-07-2018, 07:55 PM
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Yeah, no pictures showing, not even placeholders.
You sure they are not too big? AVS has a size maximum, check what it says when you try to upload them.
I keep resizing mine in normal Windows Paint to 1280x720 before uploading.

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post #734 of 762 Old 01-07-2018, 08:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LydMekk View Post
Yeah, no pictures showing, not even placeholders.
You sure they are not too big? AVS has a size maximum, check what it says when you try to upload them.
I keep resizing mine in normal Windows Paint to 1280x720 before uploading.
It may be a size issue but I did it just plain wrong as well. I tried to attach thumbnails. Did they show up?

Even if they did I still want to be able to embed the pic into the post so my descriptions make sense.

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post #735 of 762 Old 01-07-2018, 08:22 PM
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Thumbnails are there now.
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post #736 of 762 Old 01-08-2018, 08:47 AM
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Thumbnails is showing in post 732 but nothing in the post before that.

"If everything is under control you are just not driving fast enough"

Home Theatre Heaven in Spain - V2.0 - Build thread
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post #737 of 762 Old 01-12-2018, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post
HVAC Fix!?

I keep the basement really cold. I have turned off all of the vents to the basement so it is around 65 degrees down there.
I LOL'd at this...we keep our whole house at 65 in the winter.

The unfinished basement (with basement zone shut off completely until it's finished) averages 58 in the winter, and the unfinished theater below the garage is about 54.

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post #738 of 762 Old 01-13-2018, 06:52 PM - Thread Starter
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I LOL'd at this...we keep our whole house at 65 in the winter.

The unfinished basement (with basement zone shut off completely until it's finished) averages 58 in the winter, and the unfinished theater below the garage is about 54.
We do 68-69 in winter.

The other night it was 63 in the theater room at the start of the movie and my wife told me that I had to warm it up or she wasn't going to watch anything with me. And I can't finish Stranger Things Season Two until she gets down there. So I will have to open a few vents in the basement to heat it up a few degrees. It is a great problem to have considering my previous issues with it being too hot down there in the winter.
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post #739 of 762 Old 01-13-2018, 07:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, I finally got around to fixing my broken pictures in my build thread. Will never use photo scam bucket again obviously.

Here is how I did it for anyone with threads to fix. Download the Chrome browser and search for an extension stating that it fixes third party hosting issues from photo douche bucket. Once you add the extension you will be able to see all your pics which saves you having to look them up every time you want to replace them. In my case I decided to open two pages since I had multiple pics in many of the posts. I used one page to copy from with the "save image address" right click function. The other page I kept in editing mode and simply pasted it using the "insert image" icon. Paste in the url and you are good to go. At least as far as I can tell.

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post #740 of 762 Old 01-14-2018, 01:20 PM
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We do 68-69 in winter.

The other night it was 63 in the theater room at the start of the movie and my wife told me that I had to warm it up or she wasn't going to watch anything with me. And I can't finish Stranger Things Season Two until she gets down there. So I will have to open a few vents in the basement to heat it up a few degrees. It is a great problem to have considering my previous issues with it being too hot down there in the winter.
Very cool (literally) that you were able to find a solution to the heat problem and avoid the $7500!!! expense of the minisplit! It's possible to do a minisplit for $2000 or less yourself if you pay a qualified A/C tech to run/hookup the lineset, but I like your solution that probably saved another $1700 on top of that.
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post #741 of 762 Old 01-14-2018, 01:50 PM - Thread Starter
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I finished my black velvet project awhile ago and did not post updates in my thread. So here is a blow by blow. It was quite a chore. But, it was worth it in the end.

Here is before



After





I ordered the Royalty 3 velvet from Jo Annes. I had them ship it since the local stores did not have enough. It was $11.99 after sale price.



I was paranoid about sag so I thought I would build panels. Well, after putting my first panel up I discovered that there is a small section of the very front of my room that does not have good substrate to fasten to. So I abandoned that plan in favor of stretching smaller sections and rolling with a contingency plan that I will explain.
Here is the ill fated panel. Man it looked so good all stretched. Oh well....



Here was my basic set up. I used a table and put a long wide board on top to cut on. The large drywall T square will make sure your cut is straight.



I found this Olfa roller blade worked well to cut long sections. Only cut once and make sure it is tight against the T square. You may need to cut some threads that don't go through the first time.





My trusty Porter Cable US58 fabric staple worked like a champ again. This is highly recommended because you can see exactly where each staple is going to get everything as precise your skills allow.



These were not easy to track down but I special ordered some black staples and it saved me having to paint all of them myself. Well worth it. The staples never jammed once in my US58.



Here is half way done. The difference is very large.



I decided to take my diffusors out for the time being and I just lined the insides of the vent cut outs in the ceiling. It just disappears. This pic is not done but I did an outline around the vents first.



The can lights were removed and I put up a sheet over them and felt where the edges were so I could staple around it before cutting out the fabric in the middle of the stapled outline. It worked really well. Then just replaced cans.
This is with the flash on.

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...pscn4frznc.jpg

I also found that any surface that gets direct reflections was in need of treatment. So my side panels were soon wrapped. Here is a comparison shot with the GOM Black AT fabric that was on them previously.



And here is where those panels reside. The side panels get a lot of reflections in that location. The panels on the front wall that are parallel with the screen are not as critical. And the other AT fabric panels that cover my speakers thankfully are also not critical. They are just to the left of the black velvet panel.



Finished product close up of ceiling. Flash on and off for detail.





Just to be super anal I discovered that I was bothered by being able to see a very small part of my black can lights above the screen. So I made some small sections and placed them just in front using tacks. I used thick tape to hold it together and make prevent any light from shining through.



Can't see the can now.



Back view.



I found that my black carpet has quite a sheen to it so I decided to make velvet treatments for it as well. I bought a different brand. This time it was the Triple Velvet from Hobby Lobby. I compared it to the Royalty three that I used on my entire ceiling. To my horror the Triple had less sheen to it than the Royalty. You can see this in the pic but it is a larger difference in person.



Now after I fired up my projector my fears were quelled as my ceiling completely disappeared. It turns out the small amount of extra sheen did not make a real world difference. However, I would still go with the Triple because you never know. Maybe in your application it will make a difference. I will use the Triple for my floor and possibly a few more side panels if I get real nutty.


Done!



The effect is that the image is completely floating in space! Sorry I could not resist the "floating in space" pun!






This was a drawn out and frustrating endeavor. So painful. Some of that was my fault for being very picky and changing my mind so many times about how to do it. It was WELL WORTH it in the end. The effect is fairly dramatic. Worth every stretch and staple.

My contingency plan if I do get sagging is to wrap 1/2'' x 2'' trim pieces in fabric and place a few across the room in the middle of the stapled sections. That should do it and it will be so much easier to wrap and staple the trim pieces than doing anything on the ceiling. I recommend having 2 people. I was going solo and it was quite difficult.

So happy and now I want to turn my iris down even more!
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post #742 of 762 Old 03-11-2018, 03:11 PM - Thread Starter
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I thought I would post my impressions of a recent screen change. I have a dedicated light controlled room with a JVC RS520 and a 110'' wide 2.35:1 screen. The throw is close to 16.5 feet. I have 2 rows and the front row is the MLP. It is 9' from the screen so relatively close seating distance.

I went from the Screen Excellence Enlightor 4K to the Enlightor Neo. Here is a link. http://www.screenexcellence.com/technology.html

I have copied the info from Screen Excellence here for reference on the two screens

The EN4K is The Original 4K Woven Screen

Launched in 2009, Enlightor 4K set a new standard in the Home Theatre industry.

Pioneering woven screen technology enabled inception of the first truly 4K compatible Acoustically Transparent projection surface.

Offering a stunning image coupled with negligible, frequency independent acoustic insertion loss, this ground-breaking technology blends seamlessly with every aspect of your luxury Home Theatre installation.

Advanced Features
Woven synthetic flame-retardant fabric
Constant acoustic insertion loss (<2.5 dB) across the frequency spectrum
0.9 gain
Excellent colour neutrality
Sizes up to 2.8 m height (6.72 m width in 2.40:1 aspect ratio)
The Audiophile Screen Surface

Enlightor Neo is the most advanced Acoustically Transparent projection surface available today.

With a negligible acoustic insertion loss and enhanced visual dynamic range, our premium surface elevates the viewer’s experience leading them into the realm of complete submersion.

Advanced features
Woven synthetic flame-retardant fabric
Minimal acoustic insertion loss (<1.0 dB) across the frequency spectrum
0.95 gain
Enhanced dynamic range
Sizes up to 2.8 m height (6.72 m width in 2.40:1 aspect ratio)

I have had the EN4K since late 2013 and it was a fantastic screen. Very color uniform which is of utmost importance. However, I did notice that at my seating distance I could occasionally see tiny bright sparkling elements when viewing bright scenes that have been described in this thread as a result of gain treatment adhered to the screen. The elements went mostly away if seated in the back row. There was also a sort of grainy film that looked like screen structure or something that I can only assume is also a result of the gain treatment and it makes the screen look kind of dirty when viewing bright scenes.

I barely noticed these issues until I sold my RS45 in favor of a brighter RS400. The sparkling elements were now clearly visible and a constant annoyance. Ditto with the dirty screen effect on bright scenes. After going to the RS520 the issue persisted of course. The brighter the image the worse the problem.

Sitting farther away can mitigate these effects however you then need a larger screen for the same viewing angle and you dramatically reduce the brightness of the image which is critical for HDR.

I got a sample of the EN Neo fabric and I did not see any sparkles. There was also no dirty grain effect and the resulting image was cleaner and a touch brighter. So I took the plunge and put the new screen up last week. I had a professional calibration done by @desertdome owner of High Impact AV and it was incredibly well done. I was immediately pleased with the screen change. There were no sparkles. Zero. The image is much more like looking out a window even at a 9' seating distance. This material appears to have a very slight advantage in brightness which could just be due to the lack of the grain/dirt effect. I could not be happier.

It is unfortunate that gain screens are difficult to enjoy at close seating distances especially with the advent of HDR. I am getting 100 nits currently with HDR material at high lamp and a custom curve. The result is very very nice.

This report by Accucal has been referenced before but I will add it here again because it is so useful for those who have not seen it. https://www.accucalav.com/wp-content...een_report.pdf
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post #743 of 762 Old 03-11-2018, 04:09 PM
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Nice, finally rid of the sparkles. I haven't noticed noticed any sparkle with your old hand-me-down rS400 and Derek's old EN4K screen, but it's a 130 wide at 11' so not as bright as what you were getting. Did you get the s8 on the ceiling? Also, are you able to get AVR volume feedback on the display of your Harmony Elite?
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Nice, finally rid of the sparkles. I haven't noticed noticed any sparkle with your old hand-me-down rS400 and Derek's old EN4K screen, but it's a 130 wide at 11' so not as bright as what you were getting. Did you get the s8 on the ceiling? Also, are you able to get AVR volume feedback on the display of your Harmony Elite?
Good news. I don't think they will be obvious with your combination of viewing distance and screen size. They go away fairly dramatically as you get farther from the screen. Your screen is going to be a little dimmer than mine since you are fully 20'' wider. And the brighter the image the more it shows up. So I think your in the clear.

Yes I did just get the S8 mounted this week. Stay tuned for impressions. I will make another post. Spoiler alert they are better. I also changed the location and that is an improvement as well.

I need to check on the AVR volume for you. I do get the AVR volume to show up on my projector screen though.
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post #745 of 762 Old 03-11-2018, 05:36 PM
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How do you have the video/sound settings in your Xbox? I had to change mine all to bitstreaming to get the rears to work, and I think that it has to be enabled for Atmos. Is this true? It seems that the Audio set to bitstreaming takes some of the warmth out of the sound. Do you get that?
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post #746 of 762 Old 03-11-2018, 07:13 PM - Thread Starter
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How do you have the video/sound settings in your Xbox? I had to change mine all to bitstreaming to get the rears to work, and I think that it has to be enabled for Atmos. Is this true? It seems that the Audio set to bitstreaming takes some of the warmth out of the sound. Do you get that?
You have to install the Dolby Access App on your Xbox and then change a few settings to get Atmos working. I forgot what the specific settings are but it will show up once the app is installed. I'm going to have to check on the bit streaming taking the warmth away.
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post #747 of 762 Old 03-13-2018, 06:38 PM - Thread Starter
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I made a post in a JVC thread that may be of interest to some who are looking at HDR calibrations and the Oppo 203 HDR tone mapping.

I copied it below.

I recently compared the Oppo 203 tone mapping to newly made custom curves after a pro calibration. Here are my impressions.

I have the JVC RS520 in a dedicated light controlled room with a 16.5' throw. I sit 9' from a 110'' 2.35 screen. The material is Screen Excellence Enlightor Neo. This was a recent screen change and I love the screen btw. It is perhaps slightly brighter than the EN4K that it replaced which was measured by Accucal to be 0.84 gain (claimed 0.98). I anticipate that the Neo fabric will measure slightly higher than 0.84 but probably just under 0.9 just to my eyes.

I had High Impact AV calibrate the projector. He also did a calibration last year and I sent the unit in for the CMD banding fix prior to this calibration. It had around 750 hours over the last year. He uses the arve tool to do a custom calibration. I forgot what kind of fancy calibration sensor he has but I know he uses Calman on his PC. He did a calibration for SDR in both 16:9 and 2.35. I run low lamp for 16:9 and high lamp for 2.35. Both are calibrated to 16 foot lamberts. Then an HDR calibration that seems to work well for everything. I always use high lamp for HDR. He then did another SDR BT2020 calibration for the Oppo 203 that uses its own algorithms for tone mapping of HDR content.

I ended up with right at 100 nits for HDR high lamp.

Michael was curious about the Oppo tone mapping function so he stayed around for comparisons and we used the Planet Earth 2 UHD disc. It was readily apparent to me that I preferred the custom curves to the Oppo. The colors were more vibrant. In addition there were several instances that just looked off such as the snow covered mountain scene in the opening credits. The snow on the mountains was not as defined in the Oppo. Definition was somewhat lacking compared to custom curves. Sometimes it you could see it from seating distance and other times I got up a little closer to the screen. Flipping back and forth the custom curves won handily. We switched the mode through most of them but used 2 and 3 most of the time. We also adjusted the luminance from around 200-350.

I did more comparisons during the last week and still prefer the custom curves. Sometimes you don't think and image can look any better until you are shown one that actually does look better.

I still have more comparing to do but now I really just want to watch content. I have seen one instance of HDR that I do not like on the custom curves and I have not tried it on the Oppo. I did just try it on my 1080p Pioneer Kuro and the issue is still there so it is not just my JVC or my custom curves. It is on The Grand Tour when the guys are doing the interviews inside of their tents and it is the same on all several of the latest episodes. There is a greenish tint to the skin tones and they look a bit off. I am going to try to use the HDMI in on the Oppo to do tone mapping when I get a chance. Does anyone else have experience with this show? It is on Amazon Prime and looks stunning except for indoor skin tones.

I hope and pray that Oppo continues to work on their tone mapping because I believe that the future lies in dynamic mapping and as an Oppo 203 owner I would love to have a dynamic solution that works for all HDR content.

For the moment I can verify what many here have said in that a well done truly custom pro calibration HDR gamma curve on a system with sufficient nits is superior to the Oppo 203 tone mapping.

So far I have not felt the need to tweak any of the content that I have watched. Before the calibration I really thought I was going to go with the Oppo and I was not excited about having to tweak certain titles and basically guess how bright it was suppose to be. It seems that this custom calibration handles everything I throw at it and there is no need for tweaking but it is still relatively early.

Edit: So after all that don't let my preference steer you away from the Oppo tone mapping if you are not going to pay to have a custom curve done. It is a great solution compared to most others out there and very good for nit starved displays by most accounts.
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post #748 of 762 Old 03-14-2018, 01:51 PM
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Great info on HVAC and your solution. I wish I could have read that before I did my own basement, I would have done things differently.

My perpetual home theater build - Omaha Theater #5
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post #749 of 762 Old 03-14-2018, 05:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Great info on HVAC and your solution. I wish I could have read that before I did my own basement, I would have done things differently.
This is like the third thing I have tried so I can mostly tell people what not to do. If I had the money initially I would have purchased a separate unit but the quotes were really high. This latest attempt was a last ditch effort before I took the plunge and went with a ducted mini split. With the ducted min split I may have needed an in line fan to get the air through a somewhat longer duct so I could not be sure of the outcome. If you can get a cheap unit and do the work yourself and only pay someone to charge it then it may be worth going with a ducted mini split for peace of mind. My DIY thing was very cheap to do and hopefully will take care of things forever.
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post #750 of 762 Old 03-15-2018, 03:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Atmos Speaker Change





I swapped out my height layer speakers and I changed their location somewhat. I was surprised at how much difference it made. I had the JBL SCS 8 and I still maintain that they are very good for Atmos with 120 degree dispersion pattern and an easy to use mount and tilt system. I replaced them with JTR S8 Slanted LP's that match my base layer. So now all 8 of my surrounds are identical.

While I was at it I changed the location of the speakers. Low ceilings make it difficult to know what to do with height speaker placement. You can't follow all the rules and you may need to experiment to know which ones you should break in your situation. My ceilings are only 7'5'' and the JTR's are only a 90 degree dispersion. Add to this the fact that I wanted to bring the sounds more overhead than what I was getting before. This makes getting good sound to off axis seats a real challenge. I decided to make one seat an excellent nirvana seat and the seats right beside the MLP still pretty good seats. The back row is still alright but it is not the same experience and being right up against the back wall it was never going to be ideal anyway.



Dolby spec says to line up your height layer with your R and L channels. My R and L channels are only a foot or two away from my side walls so I broke this rule right away. The degree of separation between my base and height layers was only around 15-20 degrees and I wanted to get closer to the recommended 30 for better imaging. I ended up bring all of the speakers in toward the MLP about 1 foot from where they were. So the separation angle is much improved and everything is more overhead now. I might like it even more overhead and if I could put speakers into my ceiling I just might. My joist spaces are so filled up that it may or may not work well.

The end result was very good. The sound quality is more clear and detailed than before. Perhaps more dynamic. I like the imaging better which I think is a result of both the speaker and location change. The sounds are definitely more "in your face" than before and some people may not prefer it. I am still tinkering with trim levels so this can be adjusted somewhat to taste.

The most recent movies since the change are Guardians of the Galaxy 2, The Cabin in the Woods, and Men in Black. I felt like I was in the bubble so to speak and the layout was producing a convincing sound field. The Cabin in the Woods has a very dynamic track with good use of overheads especially near the end of the movie. The 20 year anniversary UHD/Atmos version of the MIB trilogy was a nice surprise. I have only seen the first one so far but it is a wonderful example of how an old movie has been given new life with the expert crafting of a brand new sound mix. I was stunned from the opening scene at how much this added to my enjoyment of this title. Highly recommended for a double dip at the relatively cheap price it is going for.

I wanted to be able to use the original ceiling mount location but be able to move the speaker around even after mounting for experimentation. So I ended up using video mounts for flat screen displays. They are rated for 55 pounds and the JTR's are 25 pounds. In the end I would not have wanted a lesser rating. I purchased these for $20 each https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1.



I had to get creative in mounting them to the speaker and I used L shaped brackets as attachment points on the side and the rear of the speaker. I did end up drilling into the speaker. It was not my first plan but things went south. I will spare you the details but if you want to save your speaker it could be done by attaching the L brackets into the mount and then getting an addition X shaped mount to attach to the other end of the L brackets. This X mount would then attach to the keyholes on the speaker. Just exercise better planning and patience than what I exhibited.



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