Sassified Basement Cinema - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 99 Old 10-22-2012, 03:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Sassified Basement Cinema

Update 11/20/2018:
Screen frame assembled. Need a bigger level before I can mark the mounting locations and get it hung.


Update 11/19/2018:
In-room electrical done. Lights are on and looking good.


Update 11/03/2018:
Walls primed, starting paint. Comment with picture added.

Update 10/24/2018:
Carpet selected, seats delivered, drywall mudding and sanding continues. See comment for details.

Update 5/15/2016:
Framing completed. We put up the final wall today, which means framing is now complete. Time to start on electrical and plumbing.

Update 3/22/2016:
Elusive 1099 L/C/R order finalized

Update 12/28/2015:
I am finally starting real construction. Purchased enough wood to get the theater and a couple other rooms framed. I'm going with a room within a room. Nothing will be connected to the floor joists or the wall separating the theater from the main part of the basement. Framing should go pretty quick. Here are a couple upside down photos since this forum photo posting is a real pain:

Here's a view from the rear of the room:


Here's a look from behind the screen wall:


Update 1/1/2014:
I started the new year off with a bang... Or more like a snap or pop... I finally got around to doing some actual work in the basement that isn't just in sketchup on the computer. Even though it is only insulating the exterior walls, I am excited to at least get some momentum going in the form of actual construction.



I've also made some more progress on the layout of the basement walls. I don't want to start detailing out the theater area until I'm sure all the other walls in the basement are in a good spot.



My wife and I just got done building our house and my home theater goodies have been packed up for a year now. I figured I'd build a dedicated space to un-pack them into, so I'm starting a thread to follow my progress and get input from the wealth of knowledge around here. I'm hoping to get a bunch of ideas from a local Home Theater Tour this next weekend too. Anyway, here are some rough plans so far. The space I'm looking to build the theater into is roughly 13' x 19' x 9' and is shown on the plans as the area in red.



I'm also playing with sketchup for the first time and I'm hoping to figure as much out on screen before I begin the actual construction.



I'm thinking the components will be housed in an extension to the utility room, but they could maybe go in the room towards the top of the page too. I'm open to suggestions.

I'm planning on going with a projector and 2.35:1 screen with speakers behind it. I currently have Definitive Tech. speakers, but plan on building some SEOS 12 or similar DIY speakers after the room is built.

Anyway, I'll be updating this thread with photos and questions as I get further along. Please help me avoid land mines! I've also been reading the many great build threads already available, so I have lots of ideas brewing. I just don't know if they're all good ones.
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Last edited by sassuki; 11-24-2018 at 12:22 PM. Reason: Progress update
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post #2 of 99 Old 10-22-2012, 04:56 PM
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I noticed you're in Omaha, and that got me checking if you're going to the get together this weekend. As a newbie and (eventual) first-time builder I'm certainly looking forward to it. I'm sure you'll get plenty of your questions answered there. See you Saturday!
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post #3 of 99 Old 10-29-2012, 02:22 PM
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What are your plans for the room on the top of the page?
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post #4 of 99 Old 10-29-2012, 03:15 PM - Thread Starter
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trancemitr, It was nice to meet you Saturday. I took your picture in front of nebrunner's screen, but didn't get a chance to talk to you too much. I'm super pumped to get going on my theater now (as if I wasn't already excited...) It sounded like you had some doubts about starting your framing. Don't be scared. smile.gif Tom Silva from This Old House has a pretty good technique that doesn't require you to plumb every stud. http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/framing

hellerbrewing, my plans for that little room at the top are unknown at this point... I was thinking of making it an office or something since it doesn't have windows. I'm trying to plan out the rest of the basement before I dive into the theater itself, so hopefully I come up with something for that room. Got any ideas?
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post #5 of 99 Old 10-29-2012, 04:53 PM
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There would be definite benefits of making that an office/server room and having your HT rack accessible to it. It would allow close access to a home theater computer/server without necessitating it be a rack-mount install. I like having the HT components visible from within the theater. Having them back into the office would be pretty convenient.
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post #6 of 99 Old 12-26-2013, 08:52 PM - Thread Starter
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How much room will I need behind my false wall for the AT screen? Since I'm planning on using seos 12 DIY speakers which are about 14 inches deep, I'm guessing a couple feet behind the screen would be plenty. I've got about 3.5ft to work with.
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post #7 of 99 Old 01-03-2014, 08:20 AM
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Nice to see someone close by in the same boat. smile.gif I would suggest 2' minimum to be able to walk around. If you've got 3', go for it as it will give you room for a multitude of opportunities in subs if you choose to go bigger. I ended up placing my screen wall at 36" off of the foundation leaving me 32 1/2" to place stuff/move around it.
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post #8 of 99 Old 01-06-2014, 09:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the pointers rkinmoval. I think I'll utilize as much of the 3ft I have available. I'm loving your current build by the way. I wish I had that much room. I never knew about that spancrete product before.
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post #9 of 99 Old 01-06-2014, 10:10 AM
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No problem. If you ever build, there is a supplier in Lincoln for the spancrete. I looked around in Omaha and they sent me to Lincoln. Try and keep your spans under 28' if you can as you will have to add thickness affecting your final ceiling height. We have an open stairwell from the basement to the main floor and with just a blanket over the theater room doorway my wife said she could barely hear the nailer. smile.gif Can't wait to see what it's like with an actual door and the system running at reference.
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post #10 of 99 Old 01-06-2014, 02:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
We have an open stairwell from the basement to the main floor and with just a blanket over the theater room doorway my wife said she could barely hear the nailer. smile.gif Can't wait to see what it's like with an actual door and the system running at reference.

That's awesome. I could pretty much carry on a conversation with my wife from the basement. frown.gif That will be much improved within the theater though.

Speaking of which, let me know if you have any thoughts on this: I'm wondering if I should use hat channel on my floor joists to hang the theater ceiling, or if I'd be better off building a separate wood stud ceiling for the theater that's not connected to the floor joists at all, but instead held up by the theater walls below. Not sure of the cost/sound benefits either way. I'll have to do some reading.
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post #11 of 99 Old 01-06-2014, 03:23 PM
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I've never done that and would not be in the best position to comment. However, I did listen to nebrunner's theater who I believe did use hat channel and was thoroughly impressed.
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post #12 of 99 Old 01-07-2014, 06:24 AM - Thread Starter
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I agree, nebrunner's theater and the sound isolation was impressive.
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post #13 of 99 Old 01-07-2014, 07:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sassuki View Post

That's awesome. I could pretty much carry on a conversation with my wife from the basement. frown.gif That will be much improved within the theater though.

Speaking of which, let me know if you have any thoughts on this: I'm wondering if I should use hat channel on my floor joists to hang the theater ceiling, or if I'd be better off building a separate wood stud ceiling for the theater that's not connected to the floor joists at all, but instead held up by the theater walls below. Not sure of the cost/sound benefits either way. I'll have to do some reading.

If you mean to have a unique ceiling, only held in place with the theater walls, that is best. That provides zero contact surface, and is ideal - most simply don't have the height to do that, but if you do, that is a great way to go...

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post #14 of 99 Old 01-07-2014, 07:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warrenP View Post

If you mean to have a unique ceiling, only held in place with the theater walls, that is best. That provides zero contact surface, and is ideal - most simply don't have the height to do that, but if you do, that is a great way to go...

Great! Thanks Warren. That is what I meant. I think I'll plan on doing that. I've got 9ft ceilings where the theater is going, so losing a few inches to ceiling supports shouldn't be a problem. The room is only going to be a little over 11ft wide, so if I do the soffit around the perimeter like the drawing, I could use a couple beams to frame the soffit and span 2x4s for the ceiling between them.
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post #15 of 99 Old 02-03-2015, 09:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Theater dimension possible issues

I'm thinking of extending the back wall of the theater area to make more room for a second row of seating and I was wondering if the dimensions would cause any trouble. The new dimensions would be roughly 22'9" x 11'10" x 9' as shown in the attached sketch. Since 22'9 is so close to being double the width of 11'10", will that cause more issues than the extra room is worth? I'm guessing not, but I wanted to run it by the experts.

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post #16 of 99 Old 02-04-2015, 06:14 AM
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i can tell you from experience cause i'm at exactly 12 feet, that 3 seats in the front is going to be hard to pull off. especially if you add treatments and columns on the walls. i am doing 3 in the rear but only because i will access that row while coming into the room. i know it's going to be tough. also is that a rood into the other space by the end of the first row seats? if you did 2 in the front it would be more doable. jmo.

the length of my room is 22 also. we have similar lengths and widths. i ended up with 3 in the back and 2 in the front. my first row will be about 11 feet and the second row will be at about 17 feet at this point, but a few things are changing in a week or two so these views might change.

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post #17 of 99 Old 02-05-2015, 06:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the suggestions on the seating, Jim. Yes, that is a door into the other room from the theater. i haven't finalized its location. I also just threw those seat models in sketchup to get some idea of scale, so I'll probably go with a two-seater like you suggest, or a loveseat or something. I'm mainly concerned with any ill effects of a room that's twice as long as it is wide and if I need to worry about it or not.
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post #18 of 99 Old 12-28-2015, 03:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Framing has officially started
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post #19 of 99 Old 01-30-2016, 09:15 PM - Thread Starter
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The double wall at the back of the theater is up. I'm finding it difficult to keep the theater walls plumb since they aren't tied into anything other than the floor. I can push on the top of one wall and move the whole room out of plumb. Any suggestions on how to stiffen it up would be appreciated. I'm assuming it won't stop moving until I get the drywall up to tie it all together. I may do a layer of Osb first to help the shear.




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post #20 of 99 Old 01-30-2016, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sassuki View Post
I may do a layer of Osb first to help the shear.
Your walls will stabilize somewhat when you tie them together with your ceiling joists. I highly recommend using OSB as your first layer. Not only does it add significant stabilization, you will have the ability to screw or nail anything anywhere when finishing your build. A huge benefit, and you're not sacrificing much on sound isolation if you use Green Glue between the OSB & drywall.

Good luck on your build. Don't worry about how long it takes, some us are on the multi-year build schedule...

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post #21 of 99 Old 01-31-2016, 06:53 AM
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Attach IB-3 brackets to top plates and existing ceiling joists. Will stabilize but keep decoupled.

My in progress build thread: The Salt Mine
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post #22 of 99 Old 01-31-2016, 07:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the suggestions on the Osb and clips. I've reached out to Ted at the soundproofing company for some prices and suggestions as well. My theater ceiling has its own ceiling joists, so I'd have to use the clips to tie the new ceiling to the existing floor joists above. You can kinda see the separate ceiling in this picture:
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post #23 of 99 Old 01-31-2016, 07:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Sassified Basement Cinema

Another view from the outside double wall Click image for larger version

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post #24 of 99 Old 01-31-2016, 08:01 AM
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Yes, ask Ted about using the OSB or drywall as an approach to stiffen up the structure.

My understanding is that walls and ceilings should not touch in the corners so the walls and ceiling can move independently to absorb sound energy. I believe the recommendation is a 1/4" gap around the perimeter of each wall. Then the perimeter gaps are caulked with acoustic caulk. At least, that recommendation is true for clips/channel construction.

If correct, the stability of the wall structure will not benefit much from the corner joints meaning the existing structure should be stable before you drywall.

This is a guess: could you put a 45 degree diagonal brace in each corner attached to the tops of the top plates of the adjacent walls? Or from the intersection of the new joist and top plate diagonal to the adjacent wall top plate?

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post #25 of 99 Old 01-31-2016, 08:02 AM
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My theatre is 20 years old. 150" wide screen. It is very difficult to plan 20 years ahead! I had to figure out how to retrofit an electrically operated winch/lift system, to ceiling mount my 225 lb 9" CRT. Then came digitals with large screen capability and I went from 95" width ot 150" width.
Apologies in advance, if there seems to be a bit of presumptuousness. You probably know a lot more than me.. I thought I would just write down my thoughts..
1. I would use the acoustiblock type of sound block, behind the walls.
2. I might consider drop ceiling. Much easier - too often, we rewire and change.
3. I would pre-plan the position of the projector - and put a strong wooden board at strategic distances from the screen to make projector mounting easier. Future lens options. Shortest throw is the best.
4. Since you have a long room, I would make sure there is enough room behind the screen for the largest of the speakers you would every consider. I guess 36" depth as suggested above, might be fine.
4.1 I would install three separate outlets - wired directly to the electrical panel, in this space, behind the screen (for future powered speakers).
5. I would have access door, to the wall behind the screen, from the rear.
6. Currently, my equipment rack is in an adjoining room, closer to the screen and I would keep the same. I would keep very easy access to the rear of the equipment rack (it is entirely open - never have to pull the rack out).
7. I would run 10 guage wire - at least 4 runs, to the equipment rack outlets. I realize 12 guage is enough but I would do 10 guage anyway.
8. I would plan acoustic panels, ahead of time, for both the ceiling and side walls.
9. Obviously, you would be planning for a 9.1 speaker configuration wiring.
10. Make the screen as wide as possible, 16X9. If design permits, I would have a masking system for 2.35:1 but I would not use panamorph lens (because my viewing is 95% HDTV). Some kind of masking at the top and bottom of the screen would be very nice.
11. I do have dark red color walls and black ceiling. I would use the same.
12. Black carpet for the first 10 ft from the screen. Then red or grey carpet.
13. Wiring for a subwoofer in each corner of the room. Plan on using two subs to augment rear or side channels. I use a separate sub for front channel vocals.
14. While they look great, I am not a fan of love seats or couches. It is a personal preference, course. Electrically operated recliner seats are great for appearance and are fine, but personally, I prefer a lay z boy. Reason - most recliners would not help elevate the feet, above the heart (when feet are above the heart, it is most comfortable to me). This necessitates that the screen be as high as possible - or your feet would obstruct the view.
15. Electrically operated, auto open and close drape system in front of screen.
16. I would even have black side wall drapes, automatically slide out for the first 10 ft - while watching picture. They can retract when lights are on.

ps: My home brew speaker wiring: Buy 12 or 14 guage (easier) solid core - typical - electrical cable and run it in parallel with a 16 or even 18 guage multi strand wire - just inexpensive bulk speaker wire. Run them both in parallel to each speaker. This is just a home brew and not a scientific brew - I am not trying to start an argument about quality of speaker wire etc.. just a quick and dirty way of pre-wiring for speakers.

Again.. apologies for the puff/length.. Just trying to create a checklist.. Probably, I missed a few, even now.. HOpefully, others can add/remove.

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post #26 of 99 Old 01-31-2016, 03:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Very helpful. Thanks! I think I will try some diagonals as suggested. I also just placed my preorder for a few elusive 1099s from diysg!


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post #27 of 99 Old 02-03-2016, 05:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Don't worry about how long it takes, some us are on the multi-year build schedule...
I hear ya! My dad is helping me quite a bit with the construction and asked what my timeline was. I said I didn't really care since I'm doing it as time and money allow. However, he is planning on having his knee replaced after summer, so I now have a much shorter timeline. I guess it would be nice to have it ready before next year's cold weather sets in. If nothing else, it gives me something to shoot for.


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post #28 of 99 Old 03-22-2016, 12:40 PM - Thread Starter
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I just finalized my elusive 1099 order from diysg today. Now I need to get moving on the build.

The framing of the rest of the basement is almost done. I just need to build out some soffits and wrap a post. Then I can start wiring and focusing on the theater portion of the basement a little more. A bit of sad news... My dad dropped the framing nailer on the TiVo while working on the soffit over my rack and now the TiVo just has a blinking green light and won't show anything on screen. I may try to have it fixed.


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post #29 of 99 Old 03-29-2016, 08:43 PM - Thread Starter
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The 1099s are shipping and I won an auction for an emotiva xpa-5. It was a good day. Now I need an avr or preamp. I'm running out of places to keep this stuff until the basement is done.


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post #30 of 99 Old 05-09-2016, 12:31 PM - Thread Starter
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I just realized my MLP is close to the middle of the room. Will that cause me to be in a bass null zone or anything? The room is about 11ft wide by 23ft long and the MLP needs to be 11ft or closer due to a door between 1st and second row. Will this be a bad thing and is there anything I should consider doing to mitigate at this point in the construction? Will a sub in the back of the room/riser help?
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