I am going to break up the rough mechanical rework into a few different posts because the work was so extensive. To be brief, every single rough mechanical system you can think of had to be completely redone and reworked - 3 HVAC line sets, plumbing drain pipe, plumbing supply lines, three gas lines including the main line into the house, a bunch of 240v and 120v electrical lines...everything.
All of this needed to be reworked to get out of the way of my new framing and so I could keep the walls square. I tackled this part of the project at different times, so you may see some skipping around in the pictures.
But first, allow me to show you the mess of mechanicals the builder created. Not only were the lines and pipes running amok out into the room, but they also passed underneath - and not through - the outer joist:
No elbows were used on the plumbing, gas pipes were minimally secured, line sets hung low in the room...
The water lines were loosely secured and crisscrossed the drain line:
And finally, here is the soffit outside the theater with all the mounting clamps, staples, etc. removed (by me) in preparation for the reconfiguration. I also removed the side of the soffit for easy access and installation of the new theater entry wall:
I wish I had better photos of the mess and from wider angles, but this is where I started. The goal was to rerun / refashion everything so I could keep the theater framing square, run all the way to the ceiling and preserve soundproofing.
But first things first and topping my list was getting the stupid return air duct out of my way. I never cut the 25 foot long piece to length and it's still longer than I'll eventually need when it's installed in the soffit.
But at least now it was up and out of the way:
Next, I carefully measured and cut my water supply lines at the right height to add elbows. I did this to keep both water lines as compact and as tight to the ceiling joists as possible:
It turns out I don't have a *final* photo handy, but I used all new pipe clamps to get these lines dead straight and as tight as possible to the pack out on top of the steel beam.
You'll notice one of my white pipes turned blue. You can see it in the photos above, but there was a coupling in the cold supply line which landed right at the steel stanchion. I didn't want any chance of the metal fitting knocking against the metal post, so I ran a completely new line so it would be fitting free. I then ran these lines behind the statnchion and used pipe wrap around both pipes to ensure nothing would move, rattle, or rub.
Unfortunately this is the best photo I have of the original drain pipe configuration which basically came out of the ceiling and made its bend several inches below the joist and was out into the room as far as it could be.
I carefully measured where my new rear stud wall would be, then added enough space for two layers of 5/8" sheet material and 3/4" blocking as a cleat behind the pipe so it could be boxed in later. I couldn't run the pipe behind the wall. I mounted temporary 2x4s so the leading face was on the same plane as this future 3/4" cleat. This allowed me to reconfigure the pipe tightly to the front of the stud and know
I had the right spacing.
A second temporary stud at the theater entry wall kept this same position. In the picture below you can see how I used both temporary studs for spacing. And yes, that's the completed drain line. As I said, the pictures skip around and I took a limited number of photos:
Here's some test fitting:
Final test fit:
All glued up. The first fitting is tight to the joist but I have enough room to slide a bit of rubber above it as a buffer against rattles:
Not shown are the three trips to Lowes I made in one night. The first to get the supplies, the second because I didn't have all the right fittings, and the last trip after I still didn't have all the right fittings and the glue set up on me too quickly for one of the correct fittings (ugh!). I threw down the gauntlet and bought $126 in 3" pipe fittings. I was NOT
going back to Lowes that night. Ended up returning $118 of the fittings, FYI.
Next up were the HVAC line sets. Obviously you need a licensed professional to come in and handle this part, but I was going to plot the exact path these pipes needed to take. I decided using the inside pocket of the steel beam was the best utilization of space and would work out well.
I needed a way to mount the line sets, so I thoroughly cleaned the steel beam and ripped 3/4" plywood to fill the pocket. I attached the plywood using a good amount of PL Premium and 'clamped' it by putting scrap 2x4 blocking on the face and then using scrap 2x4 blocking with 2 screws to compress the scrap blocking into the plywood while the glue set.
I was originally just going to add the plywood for the line set area, but after thinking about it, I decided to run it all the way out of the theater because it would be convenient to mount the 2" orange conduit and low voltage wiring to the plywood on the other side of the room. So that's what I did...
It was hard getting the plywood and bracing in place behind the support column, but I eventually worked it in.
And finally I extended the plywood insert all the way outside the theater:
Everything cleaned up and waiting for the glue to dry. Reconfiguring the HVAC line sets on the left hand side of the room was up next.......