The Stonewater Cinema Build Thread - Page 84 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2491 of 3148 Old 10-06-2018, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by brazensol View Post
Me personally? I think 9.X.6 is where I stop. But who knows what tomorrow brings?
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post #2492 of 3148 Old 10-09-2018, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by gwthacker View Post
I think your conclusion about location of side speaker is spot on. Friend of mine has similar equipment in theater designed and constructed by same firm. Except in his theater, the MLP is in between the two side speakers- which are running same channel. In mine, the MLP is directly in line with the side speakers and the array side channel is behind me. In over words, imagine two side speakers - his MLP is directly in between whereas mine lines up with the one closer to screen. His immersion is MUCH greater. Not even comparable. I’m now adding columns and speakers so that I have speakers in front


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

If you are talking about me my side surrounds (in an array), the two surrounds are even with each row.... so the MLP is in line with the front side surround. The new wides (with the addition of the Trinnov) will be in front of the MLP row. Those columns, are about 1/3 the distance from the screen to the first row, not halfway. (Not sure if this is optimal, as the columns were built long before wides were being considered.) I'm sure you know who can work his magic.

Regards, John
Video: Digital Projection 330 HighLite HC, Stewart 1.3, Radiance Pro, Anamorphic Lens
Audio: Trinnov Altitude16, QSC iCore250, QSC DCA 1622 Amps
Speakers: Procella P8's, P6V's, P18's, Triad Silvers 11.3.4

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post #2493 of 3148 Old 10-11-2018, 04:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Stereo Integrity BHS-24 Subwoofer Box Build

For those of you just joining this thread, I bought two Stereo Integrity BHS-24 high-powered 24" sub drivers. The rated output capacity is over 4000 wpc vs. their original HS-24 driver at just 1500wpc. The stronger magnet also allowed me to build a smaller 10 cubic foot box vs. the 21-ish cubic feet the original driver needed to really "breathe".

With the help of another AVS Forum member and input from Nick at Stereo Integrity, a fully optimized and braced enclosure was designed in CAD to unleash this driver's full capabilities without any compromises. You can see the design HERE and in subsequent posts in this thread. All internal bracing parts were CNC milled from 13 ply Baltic Birch plywood and the enclosure was milled from 1.5" thick Trupan MDF. The double layer front baffle is at a full 3" thick.

The sub build waited in the wings while I finished the theater room through drywall and was able to clear space to work. Thankfully I have a woodworking neighbor who has a ton of JET parallel clamps I was able to borrow during the glue ups. I used top quality Titebond III glue throughout. Here's the first phase of the build....

I first did a test fit of the matrix bracing in the back piece since I was using the dados in the back to hold the bracing while the glue cured. The one brace around the sub driver was not seating properly which is when I noticed the "dog ears" were accidentally left out of the CAD design.


Here you can see the rounded corners


I added reference lines


and then cut both notches until I had a perfect fit with the other bracing components


On the outside of the back piece I used a square to mark the dado / brace positions. I also made small hash marks where most of the 'meat' of the bracing would be located






Here you can see all the lines and intersecting points drawn on the outside of the back piece


I marked the intersections with my awl


Because of the 1.5" thickness of this Trupan MDF, I used 2.5" exterior deck screws for fixation and a 3/32" drill bit. A drill bit guide would keep all of my holes perpendicular


To verify the bit was large enough to predrill the edge of the Baltic Birch plywood and not split when I inserted the screw, I first predrilled a piece of scrap


then ran the screw all the way in, even though the screw would only penetrate about 1-1.25" deep once it passed through the Trupan MDF.

I used a bit stop with my countersink bit to yield approximately 1 - 1.25" of "purchase" into the matrix bracking through the MDF.




I then drilled and countersunk all the holes. 22 screws to secure the bracing to the back panel in addition to the glue.


Next, I installed the back on the bracing and predrilled the screw locations in the matrix bracing. Not shown is I removed the bracing and fully drilled out all the holes since the drill bit itself was very short and unable to reach the full screw depths I needed with the MDF back in place.


No photos during the glue-up, but on advice from other experts I also shot 18 gauge brad nails through all the bracing intersections from a couple different angles after gluing to really lock it into position.


With both brace glue-ups complete, I turned my focus to attaching the bracing to the back piece with screws. No in-process pictures as I raced to get all the glue applied and everything secured with screws during the limited open time, but installation went well. I could have clamped, but with 22 screws I decided to simply pile on all the baffle material while the glue cured.


Finished the second baffle and added more weight to the total stack.
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Last edited by TMcG; 10-11-2018 at 04:45 AM.
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post #2494 of 3148 Old 10-11-2018, 05:31 AM
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Impressive! I know those honeycombed supports will help, but have you taken a WAG at total assembled weight yet?
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post #2495 of 3148 Old 10-11-2018, 06:38 AM
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Gotta believe the cabinet, less driver will be HEAVY. A 4' x 8' sheet of 1.5 inch thick MDF weighs right at 200 pounds. So my guess, based simply on the photos posted, would be that a completed cabinet, less driver, will be well north of 100 pounds, As an FYI, when I used the latest SI 18" in my DIY subs, my 1.5 cf cabinet weighed , if I recall correctly, about 60 pounds (without driver). And that was 3/4 inch MDF except for the baffle, which was 1.5 inch. That said, I'm guessing one of these boxes will be close to 150 pounds, less driver.

Getting those EQ'd appropriately should provide some very serious low end !!

Recommendation: Attached large carpet sliders under them for easy movement. I had 6 of them under each of my (at one time) 550 pound speakers and moving them was unbelievably easy!

I still think, even though your room is not complete, you should get the HomeTheater Of The Month award, NOW. The attention to detail, current room status and overall design are truly top notch. And I have no doubt that once you get everything installed and running (and assuming your continued OCD-ness/Obsessiveness and "Attention to the small things") , it will be one of the better sounding HT's in the Known and Unknown Universe !!
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post #2496 of 3148 Old 10-11-2018, 06:46 AM
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Exclamation

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post
With the help of another AVS Forum member and input from Nick at Stereo Integrity, a fully optimized and braced enclosure was designed in CAD to unleash this driver's full capabilities without any compromises.
I don't think a 10ft3 sealed enclosure unleashes that driver's full capabilities. I'm willing to bet some type of 21ft3 tapped horn (positive, straight, or negative flare) will get you closer. AWESOME build though!
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post #2497 of 3148 Old 10-11-2018, 09:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougUSMC View Post
Impressive! I know those honeycombed supports will help, but have you taken a WAG at total assembled weight yet?
Quote:
Originally Posted by audioguy View Post
Gotta believe the cabinet, less driver will be HEAVY. I'm guessing one of these boxes will be close to 150 pounds, less driver.
At 38 pounds per cubic foot, the Trupan is expected to weigh in at 191 pounds according to the CAD program. The matrix bracing is another 19 pounds. The BHS-24 driver weighs 115 pounds. I'll be filling the box with approximately 11 pounds of insulation. I'd guess another 10-15 pounds for screws, glue, rubber feet, bolts, wire, Speakon connector, Duratex paint and any other miscellaneous stuff. Total should be around 350 pounds per finished box.

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Recommendation: Attached large carpet sliders under them for easy movement. I had 6 of them under each of my (at one time) 550 pound speakers and moving them was unbelievably easy!
Oh, I'm definitely putting carpet sliders under the rubber feet when I go to move this thing. I've devised a system to 'capture' / hold the rear rubber feet tightly so it can't move. Might also do a right angle brace attached to the woofer itself to keep things in place.

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I don't think a 10ft3 sealed enclosure unleashes that driver's full capabilities. I'm willing to bet some type of 21ft3 tapped horn (positive, straight, or negative flare) will get you closer. AWESOME build though!
Thanks. I should have said full capabilities for a SEALED enclosure. I don't have the room for a large cabinet and didn't want to mix a ported sub with all the other sealed subs I have going into the room. Sorry for the confusion!
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post #2498 of 3148 Old 10-11-2018, 09:46 AM
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Two 24" subs? I hate you. Not really.
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post #2499 of 3148 Old 10-11-2018, 10:10 AM
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Current LFE for the room will be:
* Two SI BHS-24 subs in these custom sealed enclosures
* Four IST UXL-18 18" sub drivers
* Three Procella Audio 15" sub drivers (as part of full range Procella P815 LCR, but likely crossed over at 60Hz)
* One Procella Audio V6 subwoofer (six 10" woofers in a V configuration) built into the riser for optional near-field bass

Plus each theater chair will have its own full-size Buttkicker LFE with 1000 watts of power per shaker. Should I hang a disclaimer outside the theater stating I'm not responsible for loose teeth fillings?

I haven't had the chance to update the first post in this thread with the revised equipment list. Soon....
I changed my mind - I hate you!
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post #2500 of 3148 Old 10-11-2018, 10:12 AM
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And I thought I was doing good with 3 18"'s and 4 15"'s! Now you got me thinking and thinking often gets $$$.

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JVC-RS540, 124" Wide 2.40:1 DIY Screen, Denon 8500H, Denon 6200W, Panasonic UB820 UHD Player, (3) iNuke 6000DSP's; (3) HTM-12's; (14) RSL C34e surrounds; (2) 18" Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 Subwoofers; (1) Dayton Audio UM18-22 18" Ultimax Subwoofer; (4) Dayton Audio RSS390HO-4 15" Reference HO Subwoofers
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post #2501 of 3148 Old 10-11-2018, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
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I don't have the room for a large cabinet and didn't want to mix a ported sub with all the other sealed subs I have going into the room. Sorry for the confusion!
And those would be ............?
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post #2502 of 3148 Old 10-11-2018, 10:21 AM
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And those would be ............?
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Belly of the Beast: Bass Bunker Theater
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post #2503 of 3148 Old 10-11-2018, 10:28 AM
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CShould I hang a disclaimer outside the theater stating I'm not responsible for loose teeth fillings?
Or uncontrolled bowel movements !!

And I thought I was a bass nut. But I don't think you have caught up with (I have not done the math) the guy in Auburn Alabama who has 16 SI HST 18's!!

Given what your are building and what you are using for equipment, I am definitely inviting myself up to see/hear this theater. An easy ride once I get to Charlotte (where my daughter lives).

So when it is completed, stop traveling a while so you can accommodate my visit
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post 2510
Thanks. Looks like he may be making a run at becoming the "new" beastaudio!!
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Thanks. Looks like he may be making a run at becoming the "new" beastaudio!!
Hey may end up with more bass, but there can only be one Beast
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Belly of the Beast: Bass Bunker Theater
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Lol!

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Originally Posted by TMcG View Post
At 38 pounds per cubic foot, the Trupan is expected to weigh in at 191 pounds according to the CAD program. The matrix bracing is another 19 pounds. The BHS-24 driver weighs 115 pounds. I'll be filling the box with approximately 11 pounds of insulation. I'd guess another 10-15 pounds for screws, glue, rubber feet, bolts, wire, Speakon connector, Duratex paint and any other miscellaneous stuff. Total should be around 350 pounds per finished box.
So much for a trip to check out the Art Deco details in the Chrysler building. We've seen the cubbies you're building for your subs.

Methinks you should be planning a trip to the Nile Valley, to research how the ancient Egyptians moved each massive block of the pyramids, so their final placement was too tight for a piece of paper to fit into.
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Lol

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^^^ I think what you mean is, do not pass go, buy all festool.
I am certainly a Festool fan - they make great tools. I've got a few, router, tracksaw, domino, etc. But they still don't make the big machines and that was more what I was referring to. Woodworking is every bit as expensive as the theater hobby unfortunately...
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Woodworking is every bit as expensive as the theater hobby unfortunately...
Q: What's the best way to become a millionaire through woodworking?
A: Start as a billionaire.

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Lol!

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Q: What's the best way to become a millionaire through woodworking?
A: Start as a billionaire.

Similarly....How do you make a small fortune in racing? Simple. You take a large fortune and go racing.

If I only had all the money back from dozens of performance tires, pads, rotors and the occasional clutch plus all the other go-fast goodies I bought when I raced....
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post #2512 of 3148 Old 10-14-2018, 05:57 AM - Thread Starter
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SI BHS-24 Build Photos, continued....

Glue up for the bottoms wasn't without its hiccups...

Here is what the top and bottom pieces look like.


As you can see, there are some little divider pieces in the dado for some reason, likely just a small error in the CAD drawing. You can see from the bracing that I need the dado to be uninterrupted.


Here is just one photo of the in-process glue up. I didn't spare the glue as you can see.


The fronts and backs were intentionally oversized to be flush cut later. This caused issue with the clamping where I had to use some blocking to get above this 'lip' for a secure clamping.


The clamps were necessary to draw everything really tight and get good squeeze out.


I was limited on clamps to compress the piece vertically so I used a 2x4 on its edge to distribute the clamping load.


Here are both boxes with the bottoms clamped into position. It was at this point I realized I can only really work on one box at a time due to the limited number of clamps I had...and even if I borrowed all the clamps I could.


Future pics will show the boxes being built one at a time and panel-by-panel.
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post #2513 of 3148 Old 10-14-2018, 06:08 AM
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So what's the trick for manhandling those enclosures to another part of your room to do further work on them, given the weight? Or is your wife a "power lifter"?
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Nice bracing!
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post #2515 of 3148 Old 10-14-2018, 09:35 AM - Thread Starter
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So what's the trick for manhandling those enclosures to another part of your room to do further work on them, given the weight? Or is your wife a "power lifter"?
Been doing it all myself, as-always. The only thing I've had help with during this rebuild is lifting the full upper 12' x 54' x 5/8" drywall sheets into position. You'll see in the coming photos that after the five sided box is built, I secure the baffle pieces together on the workbench and then attach everything together while the box is on the floor and laying on its back.
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post #2516 of 3148 Old 10-15-2018, 05:05 AM
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Glue up for the bottoms wasn't without its hiccups...
Nice work, bummer on the dado cutouts! I took a CNC router class a month or so ago, and there's one for use in the Maker Space I joined last year, so I'm excited to try something out. I think the first on the agenda is storage cubbies for the playroom.

BTW, I have those exact sawhorses. Love 'em, but only bought two. I think I've had them 10+ yeasr, wish I could find more!
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post #2517 of 3148 Old 10-15-2018, 11:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Nice work, bummer on the dado cutouts! I took a CNC router class a month or so ago, and there's one for use in the Maker Space I joined last year, so I'm excited to try something out. I think the first on the agenda is storage cubbies for the playroom.
That's really cool! I've always had interest in a CNC class.

My oscillating saw and a chisel made really quick work out of those little extra pieces, so no biggie.

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BTW, I have those exact sawhorses. Love 'em, but only bought two. I think I've had them 10+ yeasr, wish I could find more!
They are great. I finally reached the point of messing around with the wobbly non-adjustable (and prone to breaking) plastic ones so I bucked up for two...then added two more. Best thing I ever did was rip a piece of OSB and permanently attached to two of the straightest 2x4s I could find so it's remarkably easy to set up a super-long work table at a moment's notice. I got my last set of two from Amazon, FYI.
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post #2518 of 3148 Old 10-15-2018, 01:32 PM - Thread Starter
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BHS-24 Box 1 Build Photos

As I said in my previous post, I didn't have enough clamps to continue building both boxes at the same time, so the build process became a brutal piece-by-piece process.

Although I work fairly efficiently, each individual piece takes anywhere from 60-75 minutes to test fit, adjust, precisely drill and countersink all screw holes, glue up, clamp perfectly and take care of the majority of glue squeeze out and clean up.

The precision of these CNC boxes is insane. There is no allowance for slop whatsoever - which is a good thing. But with the bracing glued to the back, you can imagine the sides and tops have to be installed at a perfect 90 degrees to fit in place. Hammer blows to a scrap piece of 2x4 doesn't cut it. Not even close. The only thing which got the pieces into position was working the clamp handle screws little by little. It was amazing to see how a difficult / tight fit would install with relative ease with the clamps.

Both boxes are complete with the exception of the front baffles, which is where I stopped back in April when all these build photos were taken. I have a busy week at work but plan to tackle the baffle glue ups later this week when I should be able to re-borrow all the clamps.

And for those of you who were wondering....YES, the empty box without the front baffles is already exceptionally heavy!









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post #2519 of 3148 Old 10-16-2018, 04:15 AM
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This is going to be epic!!!
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Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!
The Plains Theater Has Begun
Pro Designed Room - Measurements Before/During/After Treatments.
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post #2520 of 3148 Old 10-16-2018, 05:04 AM
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That's really cool! I've always had interest in a CNC class.
It's like one of those things that the mystery is gone once you see how they make the secret sauce! There's a ton of software available for designing your models, and once you get good at it everything is a breeze. There's even a makerspace version that makes it free to download and use at home. You can see the one that I'm using here. I basically do the design @ home, save it to a USB stick, then plug it into their PC running the same SW.

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Best thing I ever did was rip a piece of OSB and permanently attached to two of the straightest 2x4s I could find so it's remarkably easy to set up a super-long work table at a moment's notice. I got my last set of two from Amazon, FYI.
That's a pretty slick idea, but I have to admit that my OSB gets used occasionally in a pinch.
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