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post #331 of 361 Old 09-14-2015, 04:34 PM
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Another weekend travel to LA Memorial Coliseum!

Expect another scrappy game between my beloved Trojans and 'Furd!







Can you give a "Fight On!" LeBon?



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post #332 of 361 Old 09-14-2015, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeBon View Post
...I appreciate your taking the time to worry about my problem -- any and all suggestions are welcome.
I might have missed a post... what are you trying to solve exactly?

Also I have a question. How do you like your EP unit and are you happy with it? Apparently there is a unit about half the retail price from them called the ISOCTR-5R-240-2 that has the same power capacity and isolation except it does not have the low voltage protection or staged outlets (and I'm not sure if it does surge or not) and no digital meter/LCD - wondering if you considered that one.
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post #333 of 361 Old 09-14-2015, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by LeBon View Post
The slats are 1x3 painted boards with eased edges, spaced 1/2" to 3/4" apart. I can't remember if the are MDF or real wood. Nothing exotic.
Well even more compliments then as it looks very professional.
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post #334 of 361 Old 09-15-2015, 08:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
I might have missed a post... what are you trying to solve exactly?

Also I have a question. How do you like your EP unit and are you happy with it? Apparently there is a unit about half the retail price from them called the ISOCTR-5R-240-2 that has the same power capacity and isolation except it does not have the low voltage protection or staged outlets (and I'm not sure if it does surge or not) and no digital meter/LCD - wondering if you considered that one.
I have had a couple of OVP errors on my Tripp Lite UPS unit, which Glimmie was referring to.

I seriously considered the ISOCTR unit, but I needed the power control feature of the Exactpower. I have 6 QSC boxes and 2 powered subs that don't have 12v trigger power control. The EP unit seems to work well, but I think it is overpriced. I don't find the metering function particularly useful.
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post #335 of 361 Old 09-16-2015, 09:01 AM
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LeBon - How do you like the Masquerade CIH masking system? Is it well made and does it feel "solid" when opening/closing? This is the type of thing that's challenging for me to buy sight unseen because how smoothly/nicely it operates when in motion cannot be judged from pictures. Have you had any mechanical issues with it operating?

So this sits on top of your Stewart screen? I was thinking about possibly getting a Seymour borderless frame AT screen and then having this sit on top of that. I wonder how "clean" that would look as far as total depth etc.

Also I noticed that you have an acoustically transparent screen listed. When I last looked into the Masquerade system back in February, they did not have the ability to do it was AT masks but said they may in the future. Should I assume they've added this as an option then, because otherwise I'm not sure how you would use the AT screen setup with masking that wasn't AT.

Thanks!
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post #336 of 361 Old 09-16-2015, 04:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
LeBon - How do you like the Masquerade CIH masking system? Is it well made and does it feel "solid" when opening/closing? This is the type of thing that's challenging for me to buy sight unseen because how smoothly/nicely it operates when in motion cannot be judged from pictures. Have you had any mechanical issues with it operating?

So this sits on top of your Stewart screen? I was thinking about possibly getting a Seymour borderless frame AT screen and then having this sit on top of that. I wonder how "clean" that would look as far as total depth etc.

Also I noticed that you have an acoustically transparent screen listed. When I last looked into the Masquerade system back in February, they did not have the ability to do it was AT masks but said they may in the future. Should I assume they've added this as an option then, because otherwise I'm not sure how you would use the AT screen setup with masking that wasn't AT.

Thanks!
The Masquerade works fine for me. No mechanical issues.
It does sit over my Stewart "wrap-around" (borderless) screen, which is MicroPerfed. My left and right front speakers sit outside the screen, so they are not affected by the non-acoustically-transparent Masquerade panels. Only my center speaker is behind the AR screen.

If I have a squawk about the Masquerade, it is that you can't tweak the preset aspect ratios -- they are fixed at the factory. There are jog buttons, but you would need to jog each time you change the aspect ratio.

Last edited by LeBon; 09-16-2015 at 04:53 PM.
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post #337 of 361 Old 09-16-2015, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
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The Masquerade works fine for me. No mechanical issues.
It does sit over my Stewart "wrap-around" (borderless) screen, which is MicroPerfed. My left and right front speakers sit outside the screen, so they are not affected by the non-acoustically-transparent Masquerade panels. Only my center speaker is behind the AR screen.
That works out great that your L/R are outside the screen - completely avoids the issue with the non-AT masking. In my case the screen will take up much of the wall, which doesn't leave enough room for the speakers on the sides of the screen. Well, they would fit, but then they'd be too close to the side walls.

Quote:
If I have a squawk about the Masquerade, it is that you can't tweak the preset aspect ratios -- they are fixed at the factory. There are jog buttons, but you would need to jog each time you change the aspect ratio.
Not a bad trade off at all considering that you'd have to spend 2-3x to get a screen with that feature. These AT screens are crazy-expensive. So much so that I'm considering just going with removable AT masking panels. In my case I need as thin of a frame border as possible - the ScreenExcellence TAM-2L would do the trick. Just priced so high its hard to justify.
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post #338 of 361 Old 09-21-2015, 09:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Another weekend travel to LA Memorial Coliseum!
Expect another scrappy game between my beloved Trojans and 'Furd!
Can you give a "Fight On!" LeBon?
Fear the Tree!!
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post #339 of 361 Old 09-22-2015, 06:58 PM
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Fear the Tree!!

Can we trade coaching staffs?

900+ mile trip to watch defensive confusion!
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post #340 of 361 Old 12-10-2015, 10:13 AM
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@BIGmouthinDC - What are the typical dimensions you use in a backer box for the diffusers? My diffusers may be something like 12"x12". What would typically be used for this - like a closed 24x12 or 36x12 with a 12x12 cutout that the diffuser goes into? In my case I'm not concerned about reducing the sound of the air at the diffuers, because it will be designed to be quite slow and the air will be just "falling out" as opposed to blowing out. But I'm mainly concerned about keeping the sound from the room from breaking through the ceiling isolation layer and making its way to the floor upstairs.

As I understand it, the backer boxes will significantly raise the static pressure so this needs to be taken care of in the design. From everything I've gathered it may be OK to run 60-70 feet of duct work off this minisplit, but the duct work needs to be engineered with every piece in mind to ensure the end result will be as expected.

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post #341 of 361 Old 12-21-2015, 11:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Today we finally swapped out the center channel JBL Array 880 for an Array 1400. So now I have three identical front speakers.





The bad news is I noticed that I now have a dead right side surround speaker. Another troubleshooting project.
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post #342 of 361 Old 12-21-2015, 12:22 PM
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Looks good! Identical speakers as LCR is the way to go!
JSKMDWK likes this.

Home Theater: JBL M2 & SUB18 powered by Crown and BSS.
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post #343 of 361 Old 12-21-2015, 12:29 PM
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Glad to hear you have the matching LCR. Can you hear a difference? Sorry to hear about the bad speaker - have you eliminated the amp and wiring?
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post #344 of 361 Old 12-21-2015, 09:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
Glad to hear you have the matching LCR. Can you hear a difference? Sorry to hear about the bad speaker - have you eliminated the amp and wiring?
I think the dialogue sounds "bigger" and maybe cleaner. But that may just be because I want that to be the case.

The QSC EQ shows an input signal and and output signal on that channel, but I can't be sure that the output is making it all the way to the output terminals of the EQ. And the EQ connects to the 4-channel power amp with the QSC DataPort cables, so you can't just swap channels to test things easily. I'll have to work out a test plan. I suspect that the problem is in the 4-chan amp.

Last edited by LeBon; 12-22-2015 at 09:44 AM.
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post #345 of 361 Old 12-22-2015, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeBon View Post
I think the dialogue sounds "bigger" and maybe cleaner. But that may just be because I want that to be the case. When

The QSC EQ shows an input signal and and output signal on that channel, but I can't be sure that the output is making it all the way to the output terminals of the EQ. And the EQ connects to the 4-channel power amp with the QSC DataPort cables, so you can't just swap channels to test things easily. I'll have to work out a test plan. I suspect that the problem is in the 4-chan amp.
Do you have DCA amps? Had a similar problem. For me just turning the amp off and on corrected the problem (Which you've probably done). Talking to QSC tech, they also mentioned they have seen some problems with dataport connectors on DCA amps where disconnecting and connecting the dataport (with the amp off) may correct the problem.

Regards, John
Video: Digital Projection 330 HighLite HC, Stewart 1.3, Radiance Pro, Anamorphic Lens
Audio: Trinnov Altitude16, QSC iCore250, QSC DCA 1622 Amps
Speakers: Procella P8's, P6V's, P18's, Triad Silvers 11.3.4

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post #346 of 361 Old 12-22-2015, 09:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dormie1360 View Post
Do you have DCA amps? Had a similar problem. For me just turning the amp off and on corrected the problem (Which you've probably done). Talking to QSC tech, they also mentioned they have seen some problems with dataport connectors on DCA amps where disconnecting and connecting the dataport with the amp off may correct the problem.
The amp in question is a DCA1644, so it has two Dataport cables feeding the inputs. I just realized I can swap the two cables to see if the dead channel follows the cable. I will also reseat both ends of the Dataport cables while I am at it -- always try the easy stuff first.

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post #347 of 361 Old 01-02-2016, 09:03 AM - Thread Starter
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I did the troubleshooting on the inoperative rt. side surround speaker. Turned out to be a loose binding-post connection on the speaker itself. It required removing and then reinstalling some of the fabric from the track in the column (subject of a separate short thread https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-ded...ric-track.html ). Because the Procella P6V speaker is mounted directly against the wall, there was no room for banana plugs, so I used large spade terminals. Apparently we didn't adequately tighten the binding post when we installed. Amateur mistake!
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post #348 of 361 Old 02-21-2016, 03:00 PM
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Hey LeBon,

Re: Your HVAC. I was you have two 10" supplies and two 10" returns. Any chance we could get a pic of those guys attaching to the air handler? Does your minisplit bring in fresh air, or does the dehumidifier? Just trying to get a better understanding of all that as it applies to your space. Feel like it has goo air flow/conditioning?

Thanks!

-Brad

edit:

I guess I got the answer to parts from another thread from you If it isn't too much trouble a pick of the air exchanger would be awesome though!

Quote:
I am using the outside air intake, on both the Mini-Split, and on the Ultra-Aire dehumdifier. On each unit, it is just a smaller intake port for outside air -- standard equipment as far as I know. I just looked at my plans, and there are 7" ducts from each unit, leading to a single 8" roof jack. There are throttle valves in each 7" duct, for balancing.

I have my unit set to "Auto", and I ignore it. Can't hear a thing.

The HVAC installer built sheet metal plenums to connect the large ducts. Ducts are 14" flexible duct in and out, each splitting to two 10" ducts, feeding two 4" x 48" supply registers, and two 4" x 48" return registers. The air handler is rated at 315 CFM. Specification was air velocity at the registers was not to exceed 250 feet per minute, to keep it quiet.

My dehumidifier is connected into the same ductwork as the mini-split. I don't know if it could be set up to handle an additional area of the house, but maybe with some sort of zoning controls.

Last edited by sigma722; 02-21-2016 at 03:08 PM.
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post #349 of 361 Old 02-22-2016, 07:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sigma722 View Post
Hey LeBon,

Re: Your HVAC. I was you have two 10" supplies and two 10" returns. Any chance we could get a pic of those guys attaching to the air handler? Does your minisplit bring in fresh air, or does the dehumidifier? Just trying to get a better understanding of all that as it applies to your space. Feel like it has goo air flow/conditioning?

Thanks!

-Brad

edit:

I guess I got the answer to parts from another thread from you If it isn't too much trouble a pick of the air exchanger would be awesome though!
I assume you have looked at the diagram from my mechanical plans I posted here. The two 10" ducts wye together into one 14" duct, and then the 14" goes to a sheet-metal plenum. This adapts to the rectangular duct connections on the air handler (similar to the picture Big posted in post #6 of the other thread. Unfortunately, the air handler is difficult (for me) to get to, so I can't get you a picture of the ductwork.
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post #350 of 361 Old 02-22-2016, 07:58 AM
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No problem. The diagram is quite helpful. I'm thinking that I will be doing a similar thing for my setup.

Thanks!
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post #351 of 361 Old 03-03-2016, 07:37 AM
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Hey LeBon may i ask a questions about your projector glass portal?I assume its Edmunds AR, what are the dimensions on it? Also whats the angle? Ive read it should be somewhere between 7-12 degrees?

Last edited by WarrenBerry; 03-03-2016 at 05:19 PM.
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post #352 of 361 Old 03-03-2016, 10:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey LeBon may i ask a questions about your projector glass portal?I assume its Edmunds AR, what are the dimensions on it? Also whats the angle? Ive read it should be somewhere between 7-12 degrees?
The glass is Edmunds Part # NT 43-975 (254 x 304.8 x or 10" x 12"). The angle is 7 degrees.

The opening is about 9-5/8" high x 11-1/2" wide.
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post #353 of 361 Old 03-04-2016, 05:59 AM
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The glass is Edmunds Part # NT 43-975 (254 x 304.8 x or 10" x 12"). The angle is 7 degrees.

The opening is about 9-5/8" high x 11-1/2" wide.
Thanks!!

Btw Sig hill -#1 theater on the forum
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post #354 of 361 Old 05-05-2016, 08:55 PM
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LeBon - Fantastic build. I'm sure you are really enjoying the room. I have a question about the sound isolation shell - are you happy with the results? When you are in the room above the theater and it is blasting, can you hear anything in that room above and if so, to what extent? If the theater is quiet can you hear noise from the room above?

The main reason I ask is because I am wondering what impact having the two 4x48" linear bar diffusers (and presumably similar sized returns) has if any on the sound isolation results. I have clips and channels with two layers and GG. I was originally planning to make a transition boot/box out of 3/4" ply and lined with green glue and 5/8" dry wall and have the duct dump into there and then have the air push through the opening of the box where the linear bar diffuser would be installed. However for many reasons I've decided to make the box out of 1" duct board which has no mass. So I will have a 6x26" hole in the isolation shell where the grille sits - similar to your approach except I have a boot box whereas you used metal transition (in my case I needed the boot box not for sound control but to help slow the air down).

Anyway, I'm wondering what impact these holes in the isolation shell may have on the results of the soundproofing and am curious what your experience is.

Thanks!
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post #355 of 361 Old 05-07-2016, 12:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
LeBon - Fantastic build. I'm sure you are really enjoying the room. I have a question about the sound isolation shell - are you happy with the results? When you are in the room above the theater and it is blasting, can you hear anything in that room above and if so, to what extent? If the theater is quiet can you hear noise from the room above?

The main reason I ask is because I am wondering what impact having the two 4x48" linear bar diffusers (and presumably similar sized returns) has if any on the sound isolation results. I have clips and channels with two layers and GG. I was originally planning to make a transition boot/box out of 3/4" ply and lined with green glue and 5/8" dry wall and have the duct dump into there and then have the air push through the opening of the box where the linear bar diffuser would be installed. However for many reasons I've decided to make the box out of 1" duct board which has no mass. So I will have a 6x26" hole in the isolation shell where the grille sits - similar to your approach except I have a boot box whereas you used metal transition (in my case I needed the boot box not for sound control but to help slow the air down).

Anyway, I'm wondering what impact these holes in the isolation shell may have on the results of the soundproofing and am curious what your experience is.

Thanks!
My isolation for escaping sound is not as good as I had hoped (mainly for big bass). But I am very happy with the quietness inside the room -- and that is, IMHO, the main reason for all the soundproofing treatment. I have taken some flak on this forum for not building more isolation into the registers, but my registers are entirely inside the "soundproof" shell, so I did not do that. And the ducts are flex "wooly worm". Maybe a baffle box would help, but I'm not convinced it would be worth it for the marginal contribution it would make.

Last edited by LeBon; 05-09-2016 at 09:04 AM.
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post #356 of 361 Old 05-07-2016, 12:20 PM - Thread Starter
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I finally ended up replacing the troublesome TrippLite SU6000RT4UHV UPS. TrippLite was very good about shipping me a replacement in advance of returning the bad one, so I was able to use the pallet and packing to return the bad one. I had to get help to lift the thing, however -- it weighs about 150 lb.

I am running it this time in double-conversion mode (instead of "Eco Mode"), in the hopes that it will be more tolerant of whatever was causing problems with the old one (generator switchovers, generator frequency variation, etc.). It went through a 10-hour power outage last night without any problems (that I know of yet...)

Did I mention that I am also having a problem with my Onan Model 20-GSBB generator? It doesn't regulate the speed correctly at low load -- it works fine if I turn on the electric dryer. This causes my smaller UPS's to continually switch on and off line, and raises hell with my LED lighting throughout the house. It's like pulling teeth to get the warranty repair done on this.

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post #357 of 361 Old 06-12-2016, 11:01 AM - Thread Starter
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We made some progress (I think) on the Onan generator problem. The generator guy finally got the necessary adapter cable to connect his laptop to the generator controller. Indications are that the problem is in the throttle actuator. So he went away to order one of those to see if that fixes the problem. I squawked this problem on February 4 -- taking forever to resolve it!
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post #358 of 361 Old 08-30-2016, 11:12 AM - Thread Starter
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The Onan dealer was out this week to replace the throttle actuator on my generator. No joy! So we are still awaiting a solution to this problem. Bummer!
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post #359 of 361 Old 07-30-2019, 03:23 PM
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Hi Lebon! I did a quick view of your thread, fantastic job!
I know the time has happened but I would like to make you a couple of questions:

Could you share a detailed step by step of tje ceiling construction? Is very impressive!
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeBon View Post
Completed the ceiling cloud/bass trap, also.
And... how do you access to back side of the rack?

Thank you and congrats!

Oppo UDP-203 - Receiver Denon X4300H - Projector Optoma UHD65 - Projection Screen Elite Screen Mate White 150" gain 1.1
5 Channels Amplifier Emotiva XPA-5 - NAS Qnap 412 4x3TB Disks.
JBL Synthesis : LS80, LS Central, Subwoofer 1 x HSU VTF-15H MK2 setup for ATMOS 7.2.4
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post #360 of 361 Old 07-30-2019, 03:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Pebble Beach, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmerlano View Post
Hi Lebon! I did a quick view of your thread, fantastic job!
I know the time has happened but I would like to make you a couple of questions:

Could you share a detailed step by step of tje ceiling construction? Is very impressive!


And... how do you access to back side of the rack?

Thank you and congrats!
Post 134 has a picture of the frame. It is filled with insulation and has MDF slats on the bottom, spaced about 1/2 inch apart. It is actually a bass trap. Also has a lighting cove around the edge. Design detail by Dennis Erskine.

The rack and projector are in two closets which have rear doors in another room (my office). The floor plan is in post #1 .

Last edited by LeBon; 07-30-2019 at 03:47 PM.
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