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post #6001 of 6988 Old 12-04-2017, 09:37 AM
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Hey Matt. I just did a quick check and it does not look like it's on BR. I can't believe it. I would not buy it then but you should either rent the DVD or netflix it or something just to see it. It is really good.

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post #6002 of 6988 Old 12-04-2017, 11:20 AM
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Wind River and Hell or High Water were two of the best films I have seen in the last two years. Thunderheart is an oldy but goody as well that sort of deals with the Indian situation. I am glad that people are getting to see Wind river at home. I saw it in the theater and was blown away. I won't get into politics here but there was no choice on what side I was going to fall on. I can't wait to have such a great meaningful movie played in my room. From the descriptions, it looks like I am in for a treat.

Again, you have built an epic theater. One day I hope to just get a little more than what I have. But keep on enjoying yours.
I seen Hell or High Water and liked it. I also remember seeing the trailer for Wind River and wanting to see it. I will have to rent it.

I also remember watching Thunderheart when it came out. That's was about when I started getting into theaters when it came out. I will have to watch it again as well.

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post #6003 of 6988 Old 12-04-2017, 03:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by audioguy View Post
Matt: So your subs are about 15db higher than your mains on "normal" and about 20db for "hot". That would very much explain huge differences in what we hear as I am about 7 to 10db hot for all movies.

One of the issues I have struggled with is when raising the sub level, I can hear male voices get a bit too "chesty". Based upon your frequency charts, you probably don't have that as the rise in your base starts about where the male voice reaches too --- about 85 Hz.

I will work on my target curves to see if I can pull that off and give that kind of bass boost a whirl. Thanks for posting. Quite informative.

I tried to post a poll to see at what levels folks run their subs but it was not intuitively obvious how to do that.

Yup, no issues with chesty male voices at all! Give it a whirl and please report how you find the experience. BTW, I currently have two Qsys files--one for the ultimate Front Row experience, and another for the ultimate Rear Row experience. The above plots are for the ultimate rear row experience. I currently sit mostly in the back row, but the front row is still the best seat in the house overall. When I load the Front Row file, envelop myself in audio, and have my entire field of vision filled with 4k content, only bliss can explain it! Two of the six enthusiasts who have visited the theater have said the screen was two large for them in the front row (granted they were not reclined), so my guess is sheer preference will govern seating positioning for guests. Don't know if the 33/66 percent rear/front row preference split will hold up as more enthusiasts visit. Rear row is currently 98% of what the front row experience is, but it has with it something else (which is why it's my current MLP): a sense of room spaciousness, and a "I'm at the movies" feel.


Now, once I get the rest of my treatments (up there on my prioritization list, right after seats and a Kscape Strato/Terra server), I plan to bridge that 2% performance delta between the rows, and get excellent performance in every seat. Hey, maybe contact an admin regarding the poll? I think it would be a great poll for the main page too!
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post #6004 of 6988 Old 12-04-2017, 08:57 PM
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I did give it a go today. It is so very different than anything I have ever tried (I was about 15dB hot). While I didn't have any issues with male voice chestiness, I will still want to diddle a bit to see if I can get something I am more comfortable with.

What does your "custom shelf" do?

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post #6005 of 6988 Old 12-05-2017, 08:26 AM - Thread Starter
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I did give it a go today. It is so very different than anything I have ever tried (I was about 15dB hot). While I didn't have any issues with male voice chestiness, I will still want to diddle a bit to see if I can get something I am more comfortable with.

What does your "custom shelf" do?

So, I got the idea for the custom shelf from Seaton amplifiers (both plate and rackamp). There is a knob that boosts bass by up to 5db below 50Hz (think PGM1 from the old Seaton amps, but on adjustability steroids). Before I got my DSP hooked up and wired, I used this knob and loved it, but a little more slam above 50Hz without increasing it in the upper bass regions (this is a personal taste of mine that differs from most, as I also run my Crowson Tactile Transducers up to 70 hz LPF, while most people don't like running them over 40Hz). So I started with the Seaton-style shelf, and then increased the shelf gain (technically, applied a low shelf to the signal above 50Hz, and then raised overall subwoofer gain), but knew I'd be decreasing the gradient of the shelf slope , so I began manipulating the slope in real-time (love the Qsys GUI) while listening to my favorite demo material, and ended up starting the slope right around the crossover point, and then increased it steadily until it hit 50Hz. I found this to be a much more rewarding experience. Note that the full "hotness" doesn't kick in until 50Hz in the graphs posted yesterday. Maybe try a shelf that boosts your output gradually between 70Hz and, say, 35Hz? Took a lot of trial and error to find the perfect solution, but I couldn't be happier....until I get the tweak itch again.
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post #6006 of 6988 Old 12-06-2017, 10:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by audioguy View Post
I did give it a go today. It is so very different than anything I have ever tried (I was about 15dB hot). While I didn't have any issues with male voice chestiness, I will still want to diddle a bit to see if I can get something I am more comfortable with.

What does your "custom shelf" do?


Forgot to ask in my response above--at which Hz do your subs hit 15db hot? Are talking super-steep slope, or more gradual?
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post #6007 of 6988 Old 12-07-2017, 06:16 AM
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I will try the attached target later and see what it sounds like. I can easily adjust it and reload a new one in less than a minute so can experiment some. We shall see.

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post #6008 of 6988 Old 12-11-2017, 09:42 AM - Thread Starter
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I've run out of movies. Literally....I knew it was bad when I sat in silence after re-watching Transformers: The Last Knight the other night, wondering why I did that to myself a second time. I'm currently waiting at the edge of my seat for the impending wave of Nolan flicks to come out. I'm having an unofficial "movie day" around New Years....we are watching 4K versions of Batman Begins, The Dark Knight, and The Dark Knight Rises--all in one day. Starting around 8am and will take lengthy breaks between films. That day can't come soon enough.


The last time I watched a trilogy in a single day was the Divergent/Insurgent/Allegiant trilogy, which was actually pretty good. None of the movies are great standalone films, but watching them all back-to-back, it was actually very fulfilling and I plan to do it again (primarily due to the excellent A/V).


But anyway, enough about the dearth of good movie releases. Question for the masses:


So, I've decided that I'm not going to cover the doorway. Painted flat-black, the door disappears during a movie, and the only way to cover it with a fabric panel would be to utilize a hinged or two-way sliding panel, both of which would make the panel a third door (the two door airlock is enough). So, I need to rip the FJP and wrap with fabric in order to tidy up the ends of the walls (currently exposed LEDs strips), but I don't want to buy a table saw JUST to do this.


So here's the question: Can I use a circular saw to accurately rip a 59" long FJP 2x4 down to 2x2? I don't want to waste the FJP, which is why I'm asking first instead of just trying.
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post #6009 of 6988 Old 12-11-2017, 09:59 AM
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The last time I watched a trilogy in a single day was the Divergent/Insurgent/Allegiant trilogy, which was actually pretty good. None of the movies are great standalone films, but watching them all back-to-back, it was actually very fulfilling and I plan to do it again (primarily due to the excellent A/V).
Hmm, I just realized that I never saw the third one.

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So here's the question: Can I use a circular saw to accurately rip a 59" long FJP 2x4 down to 2x2? I don't want to waste the FJP, which is why I'm asking first instead of just trying.
Option 1: Circular saw or skill saw w/a fence
Option 2: Just bring it over this weekend, the boss-lady said she invited you guys to Alyssa's party, and we haz table sawz (in addition to lots of Disney Frozen stuff)!
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post #6010 of 6988 Old 12-11-2017, 01:00 PM
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Tables saws are great, but seeing how you are close to complete with your build, now would not be the time to buy one. If you want other options than what Doug suggeted, take a look at the Kreg Rip-Cut guide.

Kreg Rip cut Guide

Another option that gives you 95% of the benefit of a table saw but takes up a lot less space is a track saw. One option is the DeWalt track saw
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post #6011 of 6988 Old 12-12-2017, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by audioguy View Post
I did give it a go today. It is so very different than anything I have ever tried (I was about 15dB hot). While I didn't have any issues with male voice chestiness, I will still want to diddle a bit to see if I can get something I am more comfortable with.

What does your "custom shelf" do?
If I could chime in here for a second. I have been following your posts here on this thread and wanted to throw my 2 cents in with regard to the dialogue issue. The chestiness you speak of coming from the center channel has more to do with the crossover frequency of the channel as well as the amount of room gain compensation you have to offset. More specifically, most current movies are being mixed post-production to what is commonly referred to as an x-house curve; which essentially is flat from 100Hz-10KHz with extreme drop offs on either end. The main reason (as it applies to vocals) for this has to do with the fact that pretty much anything under 100Hz is considered stage noise while everything 10KHz and above is referred to as "air". Human speech pattern sounds most natural between these frequency ranges. As such, the crossover frequency selected for the center channel has a direct impact not just on the localization of sound, but also to tailor the house curve and better mimic the x-curve creating a more natural and neutral speech pattern. When the frequency band below 100Hz is elevated (usually due to room gain), then a more "chesty" sound is perceived. With Matt's sub curve that you played with, the chestiness was being masked by the elevated low frequency response from the subs. As most people are not comfortable with that level of output from their subs, you may want to try setting your crossover frequency at 60-70Hz for the center channel with the subs back down to their normal levels and see if that helps a bit. If not, then a low pass filter with negative gain should help to trim down the room gain and decrease the "chestiness". For added presence, you may also want to add a PEQ filter at 2322Hz at 3/4 octave (look up the corresponding Q value) with a gain of 3-4dB. Finally, a high pass filter between 6-8KHz of about 5dB gain should add just the right amount of openness to the sound. As you are a DIRAC Live user, some of what I'm talking about here may or may not be possible without an outboard DSP. In the end, just remember that the house curve you designed for the bed channels does not necessarily apply to the center channel, and that verification with REW is the best way to assess what DIRAC is doing to the speaker.

With regards to the subs, DIRAC is horrible at handling multiple subs (like you have) in trying to EQ them. While a more detailed discussion is warranted, suffice it to say that an outboard DSP like a QSC Core or MiniDSP 2x4HD is needed in conjunction with software (like multi-sub optimizer) that can accept biquad filters and compensate for the mess created in DIRAC. I too have DIRAC on my processor and now refuse to use it because of what it does to my sub configuration. YMMV, but I hope that at least some of this helps to resolve your issues.
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post #6012 of 6988 Old 12-13-2017, 07:13 AM
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If I could chime in here for a second. I have been following your posts here on this thread and wanted to throw my 2 cents in with regard to the dialogue issue. The chestiness you speak of coming from the center channel has more to do with the crossover frequency of the channel as well as the amount of room gain compensation you have to offset. More specifically, most current movies are being mixed post-production to what is commonly referred to as an x-house curve; which essentially is flat from 100Hz-10KHz with extreme drop offs on either end. The main reason (as it applies to vocals) for this has to do with the fact that pretty much anything under 100Hz is considered stage noise while everything 10KHz and above is referred to as "air". Human speech pattern sounds most natural between these frequency ranges. As such, the crossover frequency selected for the center channel has a direct impact not just on the localization of sound, but also to tailor the house curve and better mimic the x-curve creating a more natural and neutral speech pattern. When the frequency band below 100Hz is elevated (usually due to room gain), then a more "chesty" sound is perceived. With Matt's sub curve that you played with, the chestiness was being masked by the elevated low frequency response from the subs. As most people are not comfortable with that level of output from their subs, you may want to try setting your crossover frequency at 60-70Hz for the center channel with the subs back down to their normal levels and see if that helps a bit. If not, then a low pass filter with negative gain should help to trim down the room gain and decrease the "chestiness". For added presence, you may also want to add a PEQ filter at 2322Hz at 3/4 octave (look up the corresponding Q value) with a gain of 3-4dB. Finally, a high pass filter between 6-8KHz of about 5dB gain should add just the right amount of openness to the sound. As you are a DIRAC Live user, some of what I'm talking about here may or may not be possible without an outboard DSP. In the end, just remember that the house curve you designed for the bed channels does not necessarily apply to the center channel, and that verification with REW is the best way to assess what DIRAC is doing to the speaker.

With regards to the subs, DIRAC is horrible at handling multiple subs (like you have) in trying to EQ them. While a more detailed discussion is warranted, suffice it to say that an outboard DSP like a QSC Core or MiniDSP 2x4HD is needed in conjunction with software (like multi-sub optimizer) that can accept biquad filters and compensate for the mess created in DIRAC. I too have DIRAC on my processor and now refuse to use it because of what it does to my sub configuration. YMMV, but I hope that at least some of this helps to resolve your issues.
My issue has never been vocal "chestiness". As you noted, the crossover point as well as the slope of the FR from about 150Hz south are the key to making that not an issue.

As for Dirac not doing multiple subs very well, that is true of virtually every room correction system I have ever used. While not quite as flexible as, for example, a miniDSP, the RS20i does provide a lot of flexibility in that regard, and less the Trinnov, is the only one that does. The issue has always been the integration of the LFE channel with the LCR's. That is an iterative process that can take a really long time.

And as I have learned after having multiple kinds of subs in this room (and many others), the FR of the LFE channel will not accurately predict what it sounds like. For example, prior to the Seaton subs, I used 4 DIY SI HST18's. Incredible driver and very well thought of. And while the FR of them was virtually identical to the FR of the previous Seaton SubMersives and the current Seaton F18's, they sounded nothing alike. The HST18's efficiency curve (vs that of the Seatons) tells the story. (I looked on Data-Bass where I originally found it but could not find it to link to here). South of about 50Hz, the HST's are very efficient but north, very inefficient. And even with a perfectly flat response, the lower frequencies are far more obvious. And that is exactly why I sold them. That is also what I hear when I elevate the LFE response in a curve similar to Matt's. Many LOVE that sound but I just don't happen to be one of them.

That said, if I ever get around Washington, I will invite myself to his home to listen. I am sure it sounds fabulous !!
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post #6013 of 6988 Old 12-13-2017, 07:45 AM - Thread Starter
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My issue has never been vocal "chestiness". As you noted, the crossover point as well as the slope of the FR from about 150Hz south are the key to making that not an issue.

As for Dirac not doing multiple subs very well, that is true of virtually every room correction system I have ever used. While not quite as flexible as, for example, a miniDSP, the RS20i does provide a lot of flexibility in that regard, and less the Trinnov, is the only one that does. The issue has always been the integration of the LFE channel with the LCR's. That is an iterative process that can take a really long time.

And as I have learned after having multiple kinds of subs in this room (and many others), the FR of the LFE channel will not accurately predict what it sounds like. For example, prior to the Seaton subs, I used 4 DIY SI HST18's. Incredible driver and very well thought of. And while the FR of them was virtually identical to the FR of the previous Seaton SubMersives and the current Seaton F18's, they sounded nothing alike. The HST18's efficiency curve (vs that of the Seatons) tells the story. (I looked on Data-Bass where I originally found it but could not find it to link to here). South of about 50Hz, the HST's are very efficient but north, very inefficient. And even with a perfectly flat response, the lower frequencies are far more obvious. And that is exactly why I sold them. That is also what I hear when I elevate the LFE response in a curve similar to Matt's. Many LOVE that sound but I just don't happen to be one of them.

That said, if I ever get around Washington, I will invite myself to his home to listen. I am sure it sounds fabulous !!
I've been playing around with the curve. Last night, I actually moved the rear subs back to their original locations, stacked in the corner of the room, and the bass performance has actually improved in an interesting way...trying to figure out what exactly the improvement is besides what my ears tell me. On the measurement front, the rear subs actually measure really, realllllly well in the rear corners. Better than they did behind the seats before EQ. But the sound is different, and I like it better. Definitely more powerful initially (predicted due to corner loading). Still sorting through the fine-tuning process, but the bass experience actually made me revisit my custom shelf. I've shifted it to start at around 40Hz, boosting 5db by the time it reaches 30Hz. I had tried this when the rear subs were behind the seating position, but didn't like it. But it sounds great now. Playing with some other shelf parameters as well. Rabbit hole: entered.
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post #6014 of 6988 Old 12-13-2017, 08:00 AM
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Rabbit hole: entered.
The path you have entered is the closest a human can ever get to understanding the concept of infinity !! You have been warned !!
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post #6015 of 6988 Old 12-13-2017, 01:50 PM
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Corner loading: only way to sub, mate. Fill up those 4 corners - the response is more even IMO.

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post #6016 of 6988 Old 12-13-2017, 02:29 PM
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Corner loading: only way to sub, mate. Fill up those 4 corners - the response is more even IMO.
Normally only in rectangular sealed rooms. In other shapes or open room, it is not always the case !!
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post #6017 of 6988 Old 12-13-2017, 03:23 PM - Thread Starter
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The path you have entered is the closest a human can ever get to understanding the concept of infinity !! You have been warned !!
Hahaha. I entered this path 9 years ago, and only just found the entrance to the rabbit hole. I approached the hole, uttering "oh, it gets deeper? Let's see how much deeper...."***falls into rabbit hole***
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Corner loading: only way to sub, mate. Fill up those 4 corners - the response is more even IMO.
Thou speakest truth, my good man! Corner loading the rear sub's was actually the original design, and the rear sub's were stacked in twos in each corner for most of the 10 months that passed between subwoofer installation and subwoofer amp installation. But a feeling weeks before getting the amps, like a good little enthusiast, I began wondering "what if...?" And before I could blink, I had moved the sub's. But now, they're back...and even better than before.
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Normally only in rectangular sealed rooms. In other shapes or open room, it is not always the case !!
Yeah man, I've had some ups and downs with corner loading in previous unsealed setups. Design and Treatment are KEY....a very hard and expensive lesson for me over the years.

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Matt- I'm thinking about stepping into a Seaton F18 as one of my subs. I noticed on your setup that your's were externally powered. Am correct, or do you have one master and three slave subs for the front or back rows? Any recommendations on the best amp if going slave only config with external amplification? QSC perhaps?
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post #6019 of 6988 Old 12-13-2017, 03:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Matt- I'm thinking about stepping into a Seaton F18 as one of my subs. I noticed on your setup that your's were externally powered. Am correct, or do you have one master and three slave subs for the front or back rows? Any recommendations on the best amp if going slave only config with external amplification? QSC perhaps?
Yup, all are passive and are powered by the Seaton Sound rack amp, the OEM for which is ....escaping my memory right now. But the Seaton has some customizations in the connections and front adjustment knobs. Id definitely recommend using the Seaton Rack Amp.

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post #6020 of 6988 Old 12-20-2017, 05:02 AM
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Yup, all are passive and are powered by the Seaton Sound rack amp, the OEM for which is ....escaping my memory right now. But the Seaton has some customizations in the connections and front adjustment knobs. Id definitely recommend using the Seaton Rack Amp.
Having the Seaton rack amp(s) would be particularly useful if your subs are to "hidden" as mine are now. I don't necessarily see as much advantage if they are not. I don't recall why I did not go that route as my subs are all hidden and to get to the one with the amp on the back is a huge amount of work - particularly the set in front. Maybe they were not available then or there was a cost difference I was not willing to pay.

I see a potential Christmas present from me to me !

@BrolicBeast What is the connection from the rack amp to the first slave? If it is those Neutrik connector cables, I would be unable, at this point, to get them to my rear subs but I could potentially do so for my front subs. And what is the connection from the first slave to the other 3?

Thanks .... and have a wonderful Christmas !!

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post #6021 of 6988 Old 12-22-2017, 07:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by audioguy View Post
Having the Seaton rack amp(s) would be particularly useful if your subs are to "hidden" as mine are now. I don't necessarily see as much advantage if they are not. I don't recall why I did not go that route as my subs are all hidden and to get to the one with the amp on the back is a huge amount of work - particularly the set in front. Maybe they were not available then or there was a cost difference I was not willing to pay.

I see a potential Christmas present from me to me !

@BrolicBeast What is the connection from the rack amp to the first slave? If it is those Neutrik connector cables, I would be unable, at this point, to get them to my rear subs but I could potentially do so for my front subs. And what is the connection from the first slave to the other 3?

Thanks .... and have a wonderful Christmas !!

Hey Chuck--at the amp in the rack, the speaker cable is terminated in banana plugs, and at the sub, it's the speakon neutrik twist-lock connectors. You can definitely use banana plugs to your rack if you waned to add the rack amp. The binding posts don't twist out to accept spades, so be sure you use banana plugs. The amp has four speaker terminal pairs spread across two amplifier modules, so each terminal powers two slaves. We have the same amount of F18's, so our setup would be identical. I think I have some pictures of the connection points--I will dig. At the amp level, the positives from two collocated subs are twisted together and inserted into the appropriate banana plug, and the same goes for the negative.


BTW, I owe you an email...I really appreciate you sending me those emails regarding the intricacies of Kscape, and they certainly gave me food for thought. Haven't yet made the jump.

Have a very wonderful Christmas! May it be filled with infrasonic bass, and more importantly, may we all keep our minds heavenward, pondering the gifts that "eye hath not seen, nor ear heard, nor has entered into the hearts of men..."
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post #6022 of 6988 Old 12-22-2017, 08:09 AM - Thread Starter
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I’m taking some time to finally develop the unfinished room right outside the theater, turning it into a room for my other hobby: weight lifting. I recently sold my power rack, and will be adding a bench press rack and upgraded power rack. Now, this is a room being worked on by Brolic, so it can’t just be a regular gym. I’m thinking to keeping the same theme going from the theater (although I have no desire to build more lighting posts for the strip lights, I will if I have to). I’m current pondering how to wire it for A/V.....I already know the TV will go on the wall opposite the bare concrete, as it already has studs...and the tv will appear to be floating over a wall of mirrors. I have plenty of in-ceiling speaker, so I’m thinking of wiring the room for 7.1 in the ceiling.

The equipment room is now being used as storage. I realized this was the best use of the space. I had lofty plans to make it a high tech office/equipment room, but having a young one, time in an office on a different floor from the family just isn’t desirable.

I pulled down most of the faced insulation in the room—will likely put a bathroom at the end of the room where I kept the faced insulation.

I’m aiming to make this the most advanced, high-tech gym in existence. And yes, there will be color changing lights! Lol. I may start a separate build thread for this A/V gym....just need to find the right forum.




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post #6023 of 6988 Old 12-22-2017, 08:28 AM
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Hay Beast the room next to my makeshift theater used to be my weight room, but I wasn't using them. My neighbor has a son in middle school that plays football, baseball and wrestles and asked if they could borrow the equipment till my son is old enough to lift which will be about the time their son goes to collage. I said yes and helped them move everything to there house. I have a full squat rack, adjustable bench, lat and pull down machine and around 500 lbs in weights. Luckily they don't live fair away to move it all. I still have a Total Gym I need to start using again. I used to love to lift, just lost motivation as I got busy with work and live and lazy. Looking forward to another build thread from you.
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Klipsch KPS-400’s FR/FL with built in 15” 300 watt side firing subs, RC-7 Center, RS-3 Surrounds.
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post #6024 of 6988 Old 12-22-2017, 05:25 PM
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I could not figure this out: Did you build a room within a room then further decouple it with clips and channel?
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post #6025 of 6988 Old 12-23-2017, 08:13 AM
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Hey Matt, Can you provide me with a little help? I bought the same screen as you; Seymour curved w/ XD screen. As you know the installation instructions are not great! I see the bottom black "L" brackets and holes for the them on the bottom frame. But, how do you attach the top frame to the wall? There is nothing in the instructions. So, how did you secure the top frame? Thanks for your help!!!


UPDATE:
I actually figured it out, I didn't see the metal bracket in the box for the top of the frame. The instructions didn't say anything about it. hum...

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post #6026 of 6988 Old 12-23-2017, 09:07 AM
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I’m taking some time to finally develop the unfinished room right outside the theater, turning it into a room for my other hobby: weight lifting.
I have NEVER seen this room so clean?!?!?
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post #6027 of 6988 Old 12-24-2017, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrolicBeast View Post
The amp has four speaker terminal pairs spread across two amplifier modules, so each terminal powers two slaves.
So I can't run the amp (using just one pair of binding posts) to just one of the slaves and daisy chain from there?

Quote:
At the amp level, the positives from two collocated subs are twisted together and inserted into the appropriate banana plug, and the same goes for the negative.
On the Neutrik connector, is it necessary to use all four connectors? (I guess it is if you are driving two sets of slaves)
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post #6028 of 6988 Old 12-27-2017, 02:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Selling all my Pangea Audio cables. All of them. Just not using them. If anyone is interested, PM me!

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...l#post55388358
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post #6029 of 6988 Old 12-27-2017, 02:43 PM - Thread Starter
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I could not figure this out: Did you build a room within a room then further decouple it with clips and channel?

Greetings! So, the walls are decoupled—double stud walls where there is a wall on the other side, and 1” air gap between concrete and studs where walls were built in front of foundation concrete. Not a true room within a room because the ceiling is decoupled by IB-3 clips instead of using the separate joists between existing joists that a true room within a room requires If I had the height for dedicated joists and gone that route, then it would have been a room within a room. All planes, save the floor, are decoupled with clips and channel, along with three drywall layers plus the gloriously expensive green glue!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladeback View Post
Hay Beast the room next to my makeshift theater used to be my weight room, but I wasn't using them. My neighbor has a son in middle school that plays football, baseball and wrestles and asked if they could borrow the equipment till my son is old enough to lift which will be about the time their son goes to collage. I said yes and helped them move everything to there house. I have a full squat rack, adjustable bench, lat and pull down machine and around 500 lbs in weights. Luckily they don't live fair away to move it all. I still have a Total Gym I need to start using again. I used to love to lift, just lost motivation as I got busy with work and live and lazy. Looking forward to another build thread from you.

Hey man, it’s easy to get sidetracked. When my daughter was born, I didn’t touch a barbell for a month and a half. The total gym is a great way to get back into it, but you’ll soon find yourself missing your squat rack and lat pull down capabilities. I have a total gym leaning against the wall in my garage....it’s been there for 3 years. As a matter of fact, I should probably sell it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by audioguy View Post
So I can't run the amp (using just one pair of binding posts) to just one of the slaves and daisy chain from there?

On the Neutrik connector, is it necessary to use all four connectors? (I guess it is if you are driving two sets of slaves)

You might be able to tackle the single binding post setup with some four conductor Speakon terminations. Check with Mark—what you’d like to do might be challenging because distance of your runs vs. your current setups with three short-range cables powered by your fourth cabinet w/ plate amp on your front and rear walls.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DougUSMC View Post
I have NEVER seen this room so clean?!?!?

Hahaha..no more dodging sinks and mitre saws to get to the theater. Next time, you’ll be able to walk without obstruction! Worked on the final end of the room, and now it’s completely clean. I’m going to do a separate build thread, as this will be an A/V Enthusiast’s gym!!!

I’ve been using this 12 x 28 room for storage, but it’s about to undergo some serious changes! Sold my Rogue Ohio Bar and picked up the new Cerakote Ohio Bar as well as the Ohio Power Bar (better knurling and stiffer than the standard Ohio). Sold my power rack and plates as well—starting fresh!




Quote:
Originally Posted by bstone261 View Post
Hey Matt, Can you provide me with a little help? I bought the same screen as you; Seymour curved w/ XD screen. As you know the installation instructions are not great! I see the bottom black "L" brackets and holes for the them on the bottom frame. But, how do you attach the top frame to the wall? There is nothing in the instructions. So, how did you secure the top frame? Thanks for your help!!!





UPDATE:

I actually figured it out, I didn't see the metal bracket in the box for the top of the frame. The instructions didn't say anything about it. hum...

Glad you found it! How are you liking your screen?



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post #6030 of 6988 Old 12-27-2017, 02:55 PM
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You might be able to tackle the single binding post setup with some four conductor Speakon terminations. Check with Mark—what you’d like to do might be challenging because distance of your runs vs. your current setups with three short-range cables powered by your fourth cabinet w/ plate amp on your front and rear walls.
I have almost decided that running the rear subs from an amp in the rack may not make sense. I have always believed, and it is most certainly widely accepted, that it is much better to have longer interconnects and shorter speaker wire. If I put the amp in the rack for the rear subs, the speaker wire run would probably be 40 to 50 feet. I think I will just leave well enough alone.
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