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post #31 of 118 Old 08-19-2014, 07:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Progress update!

I have had a week of connected time including weekends in both July and August to myself. So, of course I spent all my time in the theater! I have been able to complete the soundproofing treatments to my bulkhead (HVAC, plbg, elec, etc), build/install my decoupled projector box, sheet the ceiling with OSB layer, insulate the whole room with R11, sheet nearly all the walls with OSB, AND design, build, install my deadvents. I must say, it is starting to look like something...

Here are some pictures of my progress to date in each major area.

Projector Box
This is a double layer assy I made using essentially scraps of OSB, hardwood, and DW in order to use up stuff I had handy. I used GG between layers and then acoustical caulking from soundproofing company to seal all seams. Features include a 2" conduit (empty for future use) routed into the box, a power outlet mounted to the top surface, and then all cabling to the projector routes through the opposite end from the conduit. I used caulking and electricians putty to seal up all entry points into the box and then RSIC-DC04 clips to isolate form the houses joists.

Deadvents
These things, simply put, are monsters! I designed them in 3d to get a sense of size and how they might fit best into my "dead" space (pun intended) on what will be the right side of my theater. It is a space about 19" in depth, so space was tight for building a DD/GG box around a Fantech FG6XL fan. I ended up with a box with finished dimensions of about 17"x31"x66" and my guess is that they weigh around 200# each... Man, hard to move around ESPECIALLY since one of them was to be mounted up on a 24" riser to get the main entry pipe into the room to ceiling level. After much scheming, and help from family/friends, we used a large car jack to raise it up into the air. I have attached a bunch of pics of some intermediate steps in my build as I wish there were more of those on here for reference when planning mine. I may also add them to the "show me your deadvent" thread...

I came up with a decent solution to isolate both the finished box form the concrete slab and the fan mounting bracket (supplied with the fan) from the box itself, not knowing how much vibration or noise I would be dealing with. The fans themselves are fairly loud, but mainly due to the shear air volume they are moving. These boxes do a NICE job of masking almost ALL fan noise and internal air movement noise. And, once you hook up a flexduct to the outlet ports and then a speed controller (in the future), I am sure I will be fine. I dissected some RSIC clps for parts to create the "isolated" Fantech mounting bracket and then bought some rubber shock mounts from McMaster-Carr to serve as isolators on the opposite side. The bolts are quite long because - well, that is what I had. I figure these babies each cost me ~$450 as they each have the fan, insulation, OSB, 5/8" Firecode DW, GG, caulking, wiring, hardware... Fun project though and glad its done.

I then made a small plenum box to further reduce the air noise in the exhaust air deadvent flex duct by building a small (24x14x14") box to slow down the outlet velocity with more area. I then installed a 16x16" return grille in the adjoining room in my basement to finish it off. Again, you can hear the air noise, but it is currently running at 100% speed and I know many have recommended a 50-75% speed which will still get me close to my 4 turns/hour on air volume.

OSB Layer on walls
The ceiling was finished in June pretty much, so i carried on with the walls. To do this I had to finally cut-off my walk through access I left to my shop area - which has already proven frustrating (the last pic shows the new hallway that connects the finished side of the basement with my shop - this hallway is in FRONT of my screen wall as shown in some of the earlier posts in the 3d models). I then insulated all of these walls and did more sheeting work. I caulked all the seams and corners, bottom plate areas then as well. So, as it stands now, I need to figure out my lighting so I can design my 4+ gang box for dimmers to seal in the sound in this area. Then, I need to figure out my door framing, hinges, door, etc so I can complete that framing and sheeting. I have included some pics showing the state of the room now. I may also update the Current State post in post #2 to give a quick update to those new to my efforts here.

NEXT STEPS:

1. Lighting plan and wiring rough-in to complete lighting electrical box near theater door
2. Door framing and door - need some ideas here and plan to start looking for good threads
3. GG&DW on the ceiling in the stage area - I will be then making a false ceiling to hide my lighting and fresh air ducts INSIDE the soundproofed shell.

Another milestone I forgot to mention:

I ordered my (4) 5gallon buckets of GG & speedload from Ted. They should be en route to me this week - damn thats a lot of $$$ for guacamole! I must say, it is effective in just my small scale applications in the projector box and deadvents. Looking forward to hearing the difference in the room.

Thanks for following and look forward to comments from anyone tuned in.
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post #32 of 118 Old 08-25-2014, 07:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Special delivery!


Also got the speed-load of course and some tubes of acoustical sealant as I have burned through most of what I had prior. Thanks Tedd & John (for spending my money!).

Progress update:
Some progress on the stage side of the room, ceiling. This will be where I add framing to close in an area for the fresh air outlets for the room as well as the stage can lights. This whole area will then be lowered DOWN and will be a false ceiling even with the bulkhead area.

Looking at front of room:


Looking front front left corner back toward bulkhead and rear of room:


I am now wondering about this encapsulated air volume - could I utilize it as a bass trap of sorts??? It will be full room width, about 4ft in room depth at the narrowest (about 70" at the widest) and then roughly 9" tall... Any ideas???
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post #33 of 118 Old 08-25-2014, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PApilgrim View Post
I am open to suggestions sure. That's the best part of this forum - collaboration and being able to ask for advice. That said, my yet to be determined budget didn't factor in anything for gear except for cabling, a new processor to replace my outdated Outlaw one, and a projector.
Since I'm in an NYC apt., I can't have an AT screen wall - No room. I have to use the wall itself with some screen paint on it. But YOU, now you CLEARLY have the space. If I had that space to use, I'd suggest there's only 1 way to get the best use out of it - a 2.35 AT screen with 2 10k watt BTTF speakers behind it.

What's a BTTF speaker?

.


.


.


.


.

THIS IS!

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post #34 of 118 Old 08-26-2014, 06:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by domz777 View Post
Since I'm in an NYC apt., I can't have an AT screen wall - No room. I have to use the wall itself with some screen paint on it. But YOU, now you CLEARLY have the space. If I had that space to use, I'd suggest there's only 1 way to get the best use out of it - a 2.35 AT screen with 2 10k watt BTTF speakers behind it.
haha - wouldn't that make more sense to be powered by a flux capacitor??? 1.21 jWatts...

Yep, the plan is most definitely for an acoustically transparent screen, 2.35:1 as you suggest, and my current non-BTTF equipment behind it until i can venture into the world of DIY speakers (mainly subs short term - and I use the term "short" here in AVS-context, which is measured in years!).
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post #35 of 118 Old 08-26-2014, 06:19 PM - Thread Starter
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The thought of using that false area above my stage ceiling as a bass trap has consumed my thoughts today - could that work? Think riser with vents in corners at the back of the room, but instead it would be the ceiling above my screen/stage area and I could cut the front corners away to allow for this functionality. Here is where a degree in acoustics engineering vs. mechanical engineering would be beneficial... what was I thinking.

Plan to do a bunch of measuring over the next few evenings to mock up stage dimensions, proposed lighting placement from my 3d model shown in earlier posts, and general warm-fuzzy work until I feel good about it all.

I am really just putting off dealing with my door framing which I could really use some help in terms of motivation - anyone have some good thread recommendations I could refer to for door framing? I am planning on going the solid core door with layers of GG/MDF for the door itself with seals and HD hinges. Any recommendations on that area is also appreciated
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post #36 of 118 Old 08-27-2014, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PApilgrim View Post
haha - wouldn't that make more sense to be powered by a flux capacitor??? 1.21 jWatts...
UGH! of COURSE it would! How did I miss that?

HellOOOOO?! Anyone in there, McFly?! HelLOOOOOooooo...


2.35 AT screen (w/an anamorph lens hopefully), that is gunna be sweeeeeeet
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post #37 of 118 Old 11-09-2014, 11:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Updates!

I have had even less time to work lately - job change in the same company which is requiring extra time and travel...

I have finished my framing in what will be the stage area ceiling. I went with 4" Halo IC fixtures: (3) for the screen wash lights and (2) for the reveal lights for behind the screen/speaker area. I was worried about rattles as these things are sheetmetal shells, so I added some adhesive duct insulation to them to quiet any potential rattles and then used HVAC tape to do the same treatment to the sliding mounting rails.







Then, I constructed my fresh air plenum box out of 1" HVAC duct board to attach to my 6" outlet coming from my deadvent box now hidden outside the soundproofed aquarium.











What a difference this has made to the sound level! I cut in about a 5"x16" hole to allow airflow until I get the ceiling DW layer done. I calculated that about an 8"x30" bar grille will get me well below the 250fpm outlet speed and should result in almost NO noise up there.

Lastly, filled with some not-so-pink-fluffy to deaden this open area between the finished ceiling height and the actual OSB/GG/DW ceiling.

Next, some electrical rerouting to remove some no longer needed electrical circuits and then finish a little more of the back of the room's OSB wall layer.

Need some help on this door - I am gonna be stuck soon...
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post #38 of 118 Old 11-10-2014, 12:53 AM
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My neck hurts. Nice lights.
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post #39 of 118 Old 12-05-2014, 08:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanksgiving break update!

I had some family volunteer help in town who really allowed the drywall hanging progress to... well, progress.

Couple in work pictures (low res sorry):


Obligatory GG pic:


Most of the ceiling up (minus the tougher cuts around the stage lights:


I thought about creating a separate thread for this one - what's the strangest thing you (or your help) have dropped in the GG bucket? Mine involves a father-in-law and a $25 Bostitch extra wide tape measure!

I couldn't NOT try and save it, although my expectations were low... Turns out, the GG is thick enough that it didnt seep completely into the internals. So, I treated it like a speed load gun and used a lot of water and some WD-40 - works fine!

View of the rear of the theater where I have been procrastinating making a decision on what to do about the door framing. I ultimately decided that the door really can't be supported off of the floating interior HT wall, and, I need to tear open the outside wall anyway to frame out differently for my rack location, so I just went ahead and framed it in with a double stud on the hinge side of the decoupled wall so I can move on...


Stage ceiling now complete! Drywall lift usage = complete.



Final DW hanging in the room - near the door, of course:


Final GG wall application (until I do a couple exterior walls anyway:



So, next is??? I am thinking taping and mudding is perhaps next, but I have seen that some work on the soffit construction next. Thoughts?

I have already done the acoustical caulking treatment to all corners and wall/ceiling seams as they will be located inside the soffit and will not need to be mudded. I am anxious to get into this step and then construct my return plenum box, figure out what LED lilghting I should use for the soffit, etc. Appreciate any comments
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post #40 of 118 Old 12-06-2014, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by PApilgrim View Post

So, next is??? I am thinking taping and mudding is perhaps next, but I have seen that some work on the soffit construction next. Thoughts?
My preference would be to tape and mud, then start work on the soffits. One day some one might want to return the room to a more typical square box. If the joints are finished that is going to be a chore. Just my two cents.
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post #41 of 118 Old 12-07-2014, 10:43 AM - Thread Starter
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My neck hurts. Nice lights.
Woops! don't know why those pics reversed - fairly certain the preview looked OK...

I am happy with the lighting so far for the stage lights. I am thinking though that I can not afford to use such a large housing (or even a 4" size light) in my soffit as I need to leave adequate room for my deadvent return plenum box.
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post #42 of 118 Old 12-07-2014, 10:47 AM - Thread Starter
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My preference would be to tape and mud, then start work on the soffits. One day some one might want to return the room to a more typical square box. If the joints are finished that is going to be a chore. Just my two cents.
Thanks for the suggestion - I believe I will go that way next. Currently digging out all my drywall tools and picking up the mud & tape.

Funny thing is that I told myself I would sub-out the drywall finishing portion of this project (for once in my life). I just have an internal struggle every time I consider paying someone else to do something that I can do. I am a cheap ("frugal") engineer in that respect!

I will see how it goes and will start in areas that are going to be covered completely by OC703 or soffitt, etc.
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post #43 of 118 Old 12-15-2014, 07:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok - sanity set in finally and I have (re) decided to outsource the drywall taping/muddling/finishing in both the interest of time and to surely get a better finished product. I have a work friend who is skilled in the trade and has done work for numerous of my engineering colleagues so, if he can pass a group of professional OCD types, I am sure I will also be covered. He guarantees his work and plans to start next Monday and maybe be wrapped up and ready for me to prime right after Xmas.

So with that handled, I am diggin into the soffit construction supplies. I finally found a source for the metal track for BIGs lightweight soffit best practices and will be picking that up perhaps this weekend. Again, those located in the NOVA or MD/ south central PA regions - capital building supply (local one for me is Hagerstown MD) have been great to work with and have good non-big box store pricing. I am wondering if anyone has input on the best gauge choice though here - they stock 20 and 25ga. Price is nearly identical so absent any strong recommendations, I am going to go with the heavier gauge.

I started researching primer and then tinted primer and paint choices for the black ceiling. Seems that the current best choice is still mouse ears from Home Depot if they can still locate it in their system... The as I have done zero design finishing planning thus far, I will probably just paint the ceiling and screen wall black and then the rest of the room a light/medium gray primer to help with whatever paint choice I end up going with.

Ordered and filled the Xmas idea list with LED rope lighting content (thanks to Panino) for his excellent summary of his plans for this in his theater. In typical AVS style, I have poached some of his suggestions to help keep the never ending amount of research down a little!
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post #44 of 118 Old 12-17-2014, 08:54 AM
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I noticed you used only one door on the outside wall of the double wall. I plan on doing the same here fairly soon. When you put the door in did you use a pre-hung door? Do you still see the gap between the walls? And, In your lastest pictures you have a gap between drywall and then the door, what is your plan with that.... fill it with trim?
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post #45 of 118 Old 12-17-2014, 07:01 PM - Thread Starter
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I noticed you used only one door on the outside wall of the double wall. I plan on doing the same here fairly soon. When you put the door in did you use a pre-hung door? Do you still see the gap between the walls? And, In your lastest pictures you have a gap between drywall and then the door, what is your plan with that.... fill it with trim?
Yes, the door... No firm plans yet.

That door is the same contractor grade pre-hung 32" hollow core door that the builder installed. As I will be tearing out the exterior wall DW layer in this area to frame in my rack cabinet, I just went ahead and framed around the same nominal door opening with my new inner theater wall. These interior walls are separate framing and are anchored to the floor with nails and w/ RSIC-DC04's on to the house joists. Since these interior walls will not support (in my opinion) the weight of a massive door should I go that route, I will likely have to go with a door anchored structurally to the outer walls but not sure of the configuration yet.

If I keep it "as-is" in the pictures, yes, I will frame out some trim to finish it off cause you can certainly see a gap right now. Door doesn't open full swing, but is just as much as a door hinged right next to an interior wall, so adequate, IMO.

I need to research a little more concerning code, but from earlier discussions, a door swinging out of the theater is likely not compliant. Ignorance is bliss for now! I am anxious to get into the soffit area as soon as the drywall finishing work starts on Monday, and will let this door fester a little longer...
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post #46 of 118 Old 12-21-2014, 01:56 PM - Thread Starter
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STAGE QUESTIONS:

I am starting to create my list of materials for the stage which requires first a finalized design. I am thinking of creating the same basic curved stage many of us have been kicking around. My first pass layout is shown here, but I may continue to play with the proportions as it looks a little off - the room is only about 10.5ft wide, so the curves can not be too massive.



Here are some pics of a DRAFT dwg as well as question.



Zoomed in of the proposed design in the lefthand corner:



My question is regarding the stage height and tweeter placement of the main's. I have Paradign Studio 100's with the tweeters placed at the top of the tower @ about 40" off ground level. So, if I place these on a 10-12" stage height, I am further pushing the tweet's above ear level. My thinking is perhaps building the stage area IN FORNT OF the screenwall normally w/ 2x10's and then the stage area behind the screenwall w/ 2x4's filled with sand (and less of it!). This would keep the mains lower such that I can toe them down via the adjusting feet and/or some other means. My drivers would largely still in the AT area of the screen but I also plan to make the panels below the screen surface AT for the subs and woofers of the Studio 100's.

Thoughts?

I may have to build small sand filled riser blocks for my subs (Servo 15) and any future additions or constructions. Appreciate the feedback if anyone has some input.
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post #47 of 118 Old 12-28-2014, 06:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Drywall finishing progress

Finishing is in work - first day was taping and the 6" knife work, day 2 was the 12" knife work and corner beads. Day 3 is sometime next week. Very pleased so far. He is doing nice work and it is clear there will be very little need for sanding.





More drywall progress shown in the next post with some preliminary stage construction...
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post #48 of 118 Old 12-28-2014, 06:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Drywall & Stage Construction

Well, absent any feedback, it's amateur-hour at my place for stage construction. I was intrigued by the results of the testing done by granroth here:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-ded...s-nothing.html

Based on this and my need to keep the tweeter height of my Paradign Studio 100's close to ear level, I pulled the trigger on my "hybrid" stage design - hybrid referring to the height of the stage in front of and behind the future screenwall. I think I will just go with insulation then in the stage due to the limited amount of volume encapsulated by this stage but then anchor to the ground via some RSIC-DC04 clips and some construction adhesived blocks to the floor to keep the stage from any movement (may not even need this really...).

Step #1 :
Heavy (30# i think?) tar paper left over from a previous roofing project

Step#2:
2x4 framing of the 10.5ft wide & about 32" deep speaker area. I used some door/window foam to provide the spearation between the walls and the wooden framing.




Step #3 :
I started the "high" portion of the stage which is made from 2x10 lumber. This is about 16" deeep from memory, and is the first portion that you will see outside the screenwall.

Step #4 : Framing the corner details that extend about another 16" into the room to provide some detail to the future 2x6 framed step - shown somewhat mocked up here for a visual.





Once back from the holiday travels, I will get back into the stage framing for the step and then hopefully be ready for some drywall primer in the near future.
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post #49 of 118 Old 01-13-2015, 07:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Stage Construction - Complete

Finished the sheating of the stage after stufffing w/ insulation in all cavities, screwing down the first layer of 5/8" OSB and then GG before second layer of 5/8" OSB to top it off. I plan to use some RSIC-DC04 type clips to attach the stage to the walls behind the future screenwall just to keep the stage from any movement further into the room. I used the blue foam sill plate insulation (at least what I call it) around the perimeter to isolate from the walls.




Routed a fish cable through the stage (some old ethernet cable) to hold a spot for the potential future LED strip should I feel the need.



Wired in the stage 20A power feed using some exterior conduit grade parts and pieces to keep the room sealed up.



Next post - some pictures post sanding and primer coats.
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post #50 of 118 Old 01-13-2015, 08:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Drywall sanding & Primer

Dust day finally came the first week in January! Finishing work was complete, so I picked up some Bayer Premium drywall primer on sale at Home Depot over the holiday break - on sale for <$60 bucks for a 5gallon bucket. Had it tinted grey so as to prep for a future TBD dark color. Some pics as proof it happened during stages of painting. I have (2) coats of primer up now.









Next step is soffit construction. I also did some testing work with my new RGB LED rope lighting and controller. I am impressed so far and the controller works well and allows dimming, color changing via the color wheel and comes with presets and the ability to save a certain unique configuration as well. Will post some pictures and more details about that later.

Now, if I only had more time...
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post #51 of 118 Old 02-02-2015, 04:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Bulkhead Beginnings

I was able to make a little progress with the lightweight framing techniques for the soffit area. I assembled the rails on the floor using all those 2x4 scrap cut-offs I kept hoping would find a new lease on life. After assembled, I held them up to the pre-marked lines and ran a couplescrews into the DW/OSB layer to simply hold in place. I will come back later and run some longer screws into the ceiling channel.

In determing the design here, I ran into the issue I assumed I would have months ago - to keep the soffit flush with the front stage (lower) ceiling and then still have clearance from the bottom of the soffit to the top of the future door... So, I need the soffit to be ~10.25" in height to be flush with stage area ceiling but a max of only 8.75" to clear the door. So! I settled on a design feature to make this happen - just the corners will full depth and the spans on each wall between corners will be more like 8.75". This will work well I think.

Here are a couple pictures of the soffit span assy's and some of the MDF brackets and scrap pieces mocked up to form some of the surfaces of the soffit.



I am also playing around with the amount of overhang to leave for my LED rope lighting. I think about 5" of overhang past the vertical soffit edge will give me the room I need to hide the outlets, amplifier modules, etc while allowing some flexibility to manipulate where to finally place the rope lighting.






Stage clips & Conduits for wiring

I also added some clips to keep the stage from floating around too much in the room as not filled with sand or anything substantial. I used some DC04 clips on the back corners to hold to the back wall, and 2 more to hold the stage down.

I then cut a couple 2" hole saw holes through my precious soundproofed shell to then add some leftover 2" electrical conduit. These will serve as my routing means for the speaker leads in addition to all the audio/video cabling for subwoofers, gaming, repeater, etc. I fastened the conduit with clamps and then used electrical putty to seal up the perimeter and keep them from vibrating against the stage deck. I can then stuff some more putty in these once all cabling is routed through to further seal up.




Next steps - need some MDF!
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post #52 of 118 Old 02-02-2015, 06:53 PM
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Now that all the tedious soundproofing and dry walling is pretty much done you must be able to see the end...and starting to get excited.

You referenced Granroth's stage experiments. Sometimes his thought process seems a little out there, but in this instance his scientific approach and objective testing were bang on. I noticed that none of the Sand People stepped up with hard data to refute his findings. To me, gospel until proven otherwise. I see no compromise in your decision to forgo the sand and drop the back half of the stage to provide a more on-axis height for your mains. (Glad you didn't let anyone talk you into turfing the Paradigm's. The pro-audio SPL crowd can tend towards a singular goal.)

Good idea putting the sill plate foam between your stage framing and the wall. I think many underestimate the ability of a decent sub-woofer system to shake ***** loose. Nothing takes me out of the movie more than some hunk of molding, panel or conduit rattling along with the bass line. To that end, did you stuff insulation between the drain pipe and your notched 2X4 framing?

I think your stepped soffit will look just fine. A much better solution than chopping the door opening to a non-standard size.

I know your thread has been pretty quiet in response, which is really too bad. You are doing a great job and many of the problems you are overcoming will be shared by anyone building a theater in a narrow, height challenged, mechanical filled basement space. I am currently putting together the details of Theater 2.0, which unfortunately will be crammed in a room very similar to yours, but somewhat shorter. I will be following along closely so please continue to document your build.
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post #53 of 118 Old 02-03-2015, 06:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post
Now that all the tedious soundproofing and dry walling is pretty much done you must be able to see the end...and starting to get excited.
Thanks for the comments David - yes, saying I am getting excited is an understatement. I just wish I had some more discretionary income and time, but steady as she goes!

I fixed a couple broken picture links above, FYI - not sure what happened there.

Regarding the stage construction: I found Granroth's research to be very helpful and while he was to end up with sand either way, I think he has demonstrated that the benefits (if any) may well be out of the realm of my appreciation or at least, diminishing returns.

My paradigms are sitting patiently right outside the door to the future theater and I am certainly counting the days until I can move them in. I am tempted to explore the DIY genre for speakers to keep the woodworker in me happy, but I am most interested in hearing my well broken in Paradigms in a dedicated room where I can experiement with acoustic treatments. I listen to a fair amount of music and live concert dvds and have really enjoyed these over the years. I am currently "suffering" through this construction phase listening to my Studio 40's, Studio CC & PS-1000 with inwall surrounds in my other basement area - I will survive

I have felt at times that I am narrating some sort of odd monologue, but thats ok - I have learned so much after spectating on this forum since the early 2000's and hope that others enjoy any info they can glean in the process.
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post #54 of 118 Old 02-03-2015, 06:42 PM
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Regardless of how many followers your thread has, or has not, it will always serve as an archive of the process for you to look back on.
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post #55 of 118 Old 02-24-2015, 09:13 PM - Thread Starter
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I found my side surround speakers - a little out of order, but a good deal and I needed something very slender as I have a narrow room. I had already picked the Triad OnWall product but was unsure of which tier - Bronze, silver, gold, etc. This is a pair of OnWall Bronze's and were in great shape.

Grilles removed:


Grilles leaned against the door:



First impressions are that these are very well made and they sound great just used as front channels. As they are dipoles with a left/right speaker and a null spot in front of the woofer, they are a little odd to listen to as main channels. I was just curious to hear them. They seem like they will blend fairly well with my Paradigms and certainly are perfect for my narrow room.
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post #56 of 118 Old 06-30-2015, 07:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Forgive me AVS, for I have sinned... it has been 4 months since my last confession? admission? let's just go with status update...

I have been quite busy with work, work travel, and vacation so now I am long overdue for some updates as I have been chipping away at this, little by little in typical style.

First, some pics of my MDF efforts for the soffit construction. These "third hand" pole jacks have been quite useful and recommended for those who are also working more or less by themselves.


While I was working at the bottom surface MDF, I took some time to dream up a column design to house my lighting wiring, a floor level outlet, and of course the switches themselves for all room/stage/LED strip lighting. My concern was to maintain as MUCH room width as possible as I am only going to have ~10ft 2in or so or width. That is also the reason those Triad onwall's were my surround of choice for the side surrounds as they are only ~4" in depth. So, this design pull some "lines" off of my chamfered edge stage design, is only 2" deep at the narrow portion and about 5" at the switch electrical box location. The top cutout is for the LED light controller, and the lower portion is a 3-gang old work box for my IMAX reveal lights, screen wash lights, and the LED spots around the room for full-ON lighting.


The top portion of the column is to hold my 4" LED spot light and is located exactly at the same horizontal/vertical location as the other spots that are in the corner, lower areas, of the soffit.


Here are some shots for those of you who have yet to find the wonderful bliss of the Kreg pocket-hole jig - I find myself FINDING things to use this on as it is so useful and versatile. A must have for many things to come- fabric panel frames, screenwall framing, cabinetry framing for the bar area, etc.



Finally, here is a shot with my laying on the stage looking back at the soffit area with all the bottom surfaces completed. It shows the column located temporarily (and primed).


Here you can also see that I decided to locate the rear spots differently, reluctantly. The rear corners will be for bass trap treatment under the corner return portions so that was out for lighting locations. Also, I plan to have a gaming type functionality potentially at the rear center of the room (imagine spinning around 180deg from the second row bar seating) so this location worked to provide task lighting back there, or, just counter height lighting if I just put a rear counter/cabinet arrangement back there...

Next post will show some more detail of creating my HVAC return duct in the right side wall soffit, making another column, and some pics of the completed MDF construction and priming. Enjoy!
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post #57 of 118 Old 07-02-2015, 03:50 PM - Thread Starter
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HVAC Return duct

I built deadvent boxes what seems like 2 years ago that are now isolated from the room and have been humming away this whole time mixing the air from the (mostly) sealed theater room with the conditioned air in the adjoining basement space. I have NO vents in the theater at all that are connected to the house HVAC- just my (2) Fantech fans, one each for inlet air and return.

So, I had addressed the fresh air inlet supply in an earlier post also - the small opening can be seen cut in the ceiling in the center of the room and in front of the future screenwall (in an earlier post). I will cut this out then for a properly sized grille about 8"x30" from memory to ensure it is quiet. The return duct has just been a 6" pipe poking through the theater shell to be addressed later. You can see it here in the top left corner of this picture right in the corner formed by the ceiling height transition.



I used the entire soffit on the right theater wall then as a duct:


To do this, I used some 1" duct board to block off the vent from pulling any air from the other soffit areas:


Here is a (not so good) shot showing a view inside the "duct":


Then, I had the idea to use some pieces of the duct board to custom fit between the metal U-channel and the 2x4 pieces to form a more linear flowing duct. I then just taped to the outside to further seal this up. Not smooth by any means inside, but smooth-er...


Closer view:


I also lined the sidewall with some strips of duct board as well as I can not load this up with pink fluffy like I did to all other soffit portions. Then, in an interest to maintain a high CFM and low grille/diffuser noise, I simply cut out large "vents" in the back corner soffit box to allow me an easy access to routed wires to the future too. I plan to experiment with different grilles here but something like speaker cloth, a fine metal mesh spray painted black, you get the idea. Problem with several feasible solutions. Here is a shot of these mocked up:


Here then is a view showing more completed soffit in the rear of the room and my priming of the small half-column for the left side wall to be symmetric with the other column. It is a half column as I plan it to kind of sit on top of the rear bar area granite top.


Next update will have some shots of the primer progress and next steps as I see it.
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post #58 of 118 Old 07-02-2015, 07:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Screen wall

I have run wires to the stage location for future provisions of a gaming system or two as they will require the console and sensors to be in the room. I am planning on a minimalistic screen wall (ala BIG) framing approach and will be using a Falcon screen.

I am wondering if anyone knows of some good reference builds that might have some provisions for a few consoles or components located under the screen that I could reference? I would really like to do this such that the area where the equipment is located looks like all fabric panels. So my first thought is a hinged panel that is wrapped in GOM perhaps so that it blends in when not open or in use.

Kinda specific, but if anyone would know of a good thread to reference I would appreciate it.
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post #59 of 118 Old 07-02-2015, 09:39 PM
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Youthman hid components with his original build https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-ded...-begins-2.html

It might be helpful.
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post #60 of 118 Old 07-03-2015, 05:53 AM
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http://www.artinstall.ru/en/projects/morozovo


http://www.artinstall.ru/en/projects/Bauhaus


And doesn't BigmouthinDC have a fabric covered rack up frot?
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