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post #61 of 118 Old 07-04-2015, 08:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonny5nz View Post
Youthman hid components with his original build https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-ded...-begins-2.html

It might be helpful.
Thanks! Had a quick read and that is a great reference point. Doing some sketching to determine rough available space for a mini rack or some fabricated shelves now.
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post #62 of 118 Old 07-04-2015, 08:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
http://www.artinstall.ru/en/projects/morozovo


http://www.artinstall.ru/en/projects/Bauhaus


And doesn't BigmouthinDC have a fabric covered rack up frot?
Thanks Tedd - good to hear from you again. These are quite high end builds but do give me some great ideas not just for the screen wall shelving locations. I really like the acoustic treatments on the second one.
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post #63 of 118 Old 07-04-2015, 08:18 AM - Thread Starter
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New dilemma…

In rechecking my width and height available for the screen wall framing and the screen itself vs. the falcon screen size offerings, I have another (potential) option. I had originally sized for the 115 model scope screen (125" diagonal). Which is about 122" in width. It turns out that my actual room width is coming in at 127-3/8" which is (you guessed it) 3/8" LARGER than the Falcon 120 model scope screen having a width of 127".

I will try and find his AVS handle to confirm normal tolerances do not result in anything over the nominal dimensions, but assuming ok there, is this too tight to even try and work with???

It does have a 3.5" framed wrapped with velvet so that plus some side wall treatment for the first few feet of each side wall should still help with light spill form the projector.

I definitely want to accommodate the largest screen possible, but estimated that this larger one was out from the beginning - and now, it's possible (maybe).

Anyone with a similar experience of insight?
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post #64 of 118 Old 07-04-2015, 04:37 PM
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I'm normally the first person to say get the bigger screen, but geez there's not much room for error. I would be too paranoid to do it. Hell, my wall width is different measuring from the top compared to the bottom. Good luck.
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post #65 of 118 Old 07-04-2015, 08:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonny5nz View Post
I'm normally the first person to say get the bigger screen, but geez there's not much room for error. I would be too paranoid to do it. Hell, my wall width is different measuring from the top compared to the bottom. Good luck.
Yep - my decision too. Will post some pics shortly, but I started the screen wall framing and it will just be too tough to work with I feel.

Sticking with the 115 model and will have more like 2.5" on either side to work with.

Doing a little brainstorming about a couple shelves up front as well so I have been moving in a little gear to check out spacing and where the drivers fall relative to the screen wall crossbars and such. So far, so good. Pics to follow tomorrow.
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post #66 of 118 Old 07-05-2015, 06:34 AM
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Yes, it would have been nice to squeeze the larger screen in. From your 11' viewing distance it would have provided almost a 50 degree viewing angle, however scooting your front row forward 6 or 7" will give you the same experience.
Over the first two years of owning a theater I changed screen size and/or shortened viewing distance three times before landing on a 50 degree viewing angle with widescreen material. My current combination has kept me completely happy for the past 2 years.
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post #67 of 118 Old 07-05-2015, 07:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post
Yes, it would have been nice to squeeze the larger screen in. From your 11' viewing distance it would have provided almost a 50 degree viewing angle, however scooting your front row forward 6 or 7" will give you the same experience.
Over the first two years of owning a theater I changed screen size and/or shortened viewing distance three times before landing on a 50 degree viewing angle with widescreen material. My current combination has kept me completely happy for the past 2 years.
Yes, thanks for the input. I have had a concern in the back of my mind that I will NOT want to sit so close to the screen, so If anything, this "smaller" screen choice will allow me to certainly slide up the seating as you say. I plan to have a bar height second row, so that would be less moveable - this will allow me to move the front seating up then if needed.
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post #68 of 118 Old 07-05-2015, 08:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Weekend Updates:

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I have been in MDF never-never land which is full of wonders such as priming, sanding, spackling, etc. Some tips for those who have not spend much time with MDF yet: do NOT use a water based anything as the first application to MDF. I used Zinnser BIN primer which is SPENDY but is a solids based (shellac) primer and seals up the MDF wonderfully. Then, I followed this up with another great recommendation form my AVS data mining, MH Ready Patch as the filler. Currently, all is primed and I just completed a first-pass spackle to the screw heads and pocket hole slots.

Here are some shots of the primed room, before spackle:








Here is a shot of the column and the wires waiting to be finally tied up and fished into the completed column:


I didn't take any shots yet of the post-filled holes but will do some after I sand the first pass. I wanted a break form working on MDF, so I spent a little time staring at the screenwall and finguring out how best to fame for the now FIRM screen choice and factoring in my gear, where I need to have some shelves, etc.

Screenwall Rough-in

I constructed to sistered up 2x4's for each of the vertical columns and used the DC04 clips to isolate from the "isolated" ceiling and from the stage which will certainly experience some movement. Then I attached a cross beam, another 2x4 flush with the stage height and another just down from the ceiling. his will provide some structure and allow me to have a surface to work with for attaching the fascia pieces that will be behind the screen. I have been concerned about the location of these cross beams, the screen frame, and the speaker drivers. So, how else to see then to just move in one of the Studio 100's to check out what it falls like.


Closer view of the drivers from closer to floor level:


I have begun to measure and mark off where the screen frame will fall and the needed cross brace as well - so far so good. It looks like if I just let the mains sit on the stage surface (no spacer frame underneath) the bottom woofer will be blocked somewhat by the frame at the dust cone but I do not THINK this will be a huge issue. As I spend more time working through the details, I will post some shots showing this more clearly.

Traveling this week for work, so the only progress will be in terms of locating a source and pricing for the 1" duct liner that is needed to wrap the whole area behind the screenwall. Also, I have some cracking (sigh) in my ceiling drywall and some in the side walls also... I am less than excited at the thought of regressing back to that stage and the dust that results, and then more priming, etc... (another sigh).
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post #69 of 118 Old 07-07-2015, 11:34 PM
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Wow, it's looking great. Bummer about the cracks, very frustrating.
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post #70 of 118 Old 12-07-2015, 07:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Progress update

It has been a busy fall for me with work so I have not had much dedicated time in utopia. I have made progress though and have been lax in getting that up here, so here goes...

1. Drywall cracks have been addressed by additional screws, another taping, and then mud/sand/mud/sand...
2. (2) coats of DW primer over the new areas to ensure they blend for a final coat of primer then over the whole room
3. I started to mockup a section of the LED tray soffit lights to finalize the plan on what the edge trim would be in terms of edge height - there are a couple different ones sitting up there on the edge





Hard to capture good pictures of this as so dark. Also, the ceiling is still white in the pics.

Lesson Learned #4,389

I thought it would be a "wise" idea to not predrill holes through my sealed aquarium to route the speaker wires as I wanted to maintain some additional flexibility on final locations. I measured to where the drops were in the walls and figured I would just drill a somewhat small hole to grab them and fish through when ready. Bad idea... Trying to reach through (2) 5/8" layers and then into insulation through as small a hole as possible and grab a coiled up wire somewhere in that stud cavity - not so easy. So, I came up with the following "fix":



It starts out with a ~4.5" square cut into the DW layer and then attempting to extract the DW coated with GG and w/o cracking the DW piece as it is reused. Then, I used a 4" hole saw through the 5/8" OSB layer to break into the cavity. Then I screwed the DW and the OSB pieces back together forming a sort of piloted plug. I then fished the wire through the small hole I tried first and then coated the edges with acoustical sealant before screwing the plug in place. Finally I used a putty knife to force some more sealant into the seams of the DW and I will finish it off with some electricians putty in the wire hole before hanging the speaker later on. Repeat 4x.

Room post-speaker wire rescue and before I started final priming of the MDF.



Next post will skip ahead a little to some BLACK painting and stage acoustic treatment.
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post #71 of 118 Old 12-07-2015, 08:14 PM - Thread Starter
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The Dark Side

FINALLY time for something besides spackling and sanding. Here is the room prior to starting the painting:


Some progress pics showing the spreading of the black paint:


Just the soffit painted black:


Ceiling and stage areas:








Next posts will cover the stage linacoustic treatments & some more mockups with the soffit LED's.
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post #72 of 118 Old 12-10-2015, 07:50 PM - Thread Starter
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The scratchy part

Next step was to finally use some of the Linacoustic I located locally via Craigslist for the stage surfaces which is way more purposeful than its prior purpose of taking up a huge amount of space in my garage. I used some of the 1/2 pail of cap nails I had leftover from installing new siding/housewrap at my last place. As these were just 1-1/2" nails, I pushed out the nails and replaced with 1-5/8" course thread DW screws to use effectively. Other than taking time to rework, this worked fine. I lined all surfaces behind the screenwall framing with (2) layers of 1" material including the ceiling and stage floor.



I cutout for the outlet on the backwall and the reveal light cans also. Guess I will not need to worry really with painting these bezels black as somewhat submerged by the Linacoustic...





I must say, I was a little surprised at how fine of an insulation dust this stuff creates. It is near identical to the more pressed-like duct board I used for my HVAC supply hush box earlier on. It makes it way through gloves and is just not a great time. Oh well, done for now with about 1/3rd a roll left in the garage for wall treatments later.
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post #73 of 118 Old 12-10-2015, 08:07 PM - Thread Starter
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The "light" side

After the first coat of black paint on the soffit and celing areas, I again mocked up a single strand of the 5050 RGB rope lighting. I was very interested to see just how much was absorbed by the new dark surfaces. I just sat the future light tray MDF edge piece on the soffit bottom cantilever to see if I was still happy with width of the light on the ceiling. was pleasantly surprised - the dark surfaces provide a much improved contrast vs. the light grey primer before and really makes for a nice glow, especially with the blue. Here are a couple pics to give a general idea of the look - again, just a mockup.

This picture is with the flash ON to attempt to show more context of the room:


Same shot but w/o flash and in a full dark room:


A shot just showing the portion that is mocked up completely (no light spilling out at either end:


This shows the effect the vertical edge piece has on creating that even glow on the ceiling - it is not present in the right hand end of picture near my HVAC return openings:


This shot shows all the stage lights and soffit lighting ON - LED's still cast a nice glow under this condition:


Next step is to get a second coat of black on all ceiling surfaces so that I can wire up the LED lighting 100% and then add the MDF vertical edge to complete.
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post #74 of 118 Old 12-13-2015, 08:32 PM - Thread Starter
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So, this showed up...

I am now armed with enough parts to really halt progress.


So, I naturally set it up some to mock up placement and seating. Since I have no screen, I projected on the Linacoustic ~30" back from the future screen and adjusted the seating position (otherwisw known as an empty green glue bucket) as such.

This gave me a chance to play with the lens memory feature which was one of the main features that was appealing about this one as I am planning on using a scope screen and constant image height to make a 16:9 image as needed. Here are a couple mock-ups to show the basics:

The awakening force, from the viewing position:


Here is the lens memory @ 16:9:


As those (2) are tougher to get a feel for size in the room, here is one standing back a little with the masking tape marks on the Linacoustic to show both sizes. For reference, the scope screen is 125" diagonal:


I have no ability to go any BIGGER as the overall with of the scope screen is only about 10" narrower than the room. The Falcon screen frame is 3.5" wide on both sides, which leaves me with essentially ~3" of nothing, split between the left/right sides. I have to admit, the 16:9 size is a little smaller than I was hoping, but I am absolutely pleased with the scope size.

Anyone else have opinions or suggestions? I may research a little more as I know others have arrived at this same x-road...
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post #75 of 118 Old 12-13-2015, 08:57 PM
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lol your in trouble. I also was making good progress until my projector showed up. I must have watched 20 movies on a bed sheet with the projector sitting on toilet paper boxes . Your room looks good. Where did you get the rope lights from? Are they dimable? The lights I got are really blotchy where yours looks like a nice a nice even color.
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post #76 of 118 Old 12-13-2015, 09:26 PM
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Making great progress PApilgrim. Great projector choice: I love mine ;-) I watched on the wall for months, and glad I did: I was set on a 125" screen size, but that was just too big at an 11' seating position. After watching "jerky action movies" like Saving Private Ryan and Hurt Locker, we settled on a 110" screen.

What's the distance from screen wall to primary seating position?


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post #77 of 118 Old 12-14-2015, 04:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmking View Post
lol your in trouble. I also was making good progress until my projector showed up. I must have watched 20 movies on a bed sheet with the projector sitting on toilet paper boxes . Your room looks good. Where did you get the rope lights from? Are they dimable? The lights I got are really blotchy where yours looks like a nice a nice even color.
Thanks - I quickly boxed it up and it is living in the storage area under my basement steps. I know it is there and it is calling to me though...

After reading a lot on the forum about LED rope lighting, I took the advice of perhaps pannino (if I recall and remember how to spell his screen name) and went with the SUPERNIGHT LED brand 5050 (higher LED density) lights sourced via Amazon. I am very pleased with them. I think I detail most of the pieces I bought, but if not, that is literally the next step after a second coat of paint so I will be adding many more pics showing that progress. Stay tuned!
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post #78 of 118 Old 12-14-2015, 04:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texpilot View Post
Making great progress PApilgrim. Great projector choice: I love mine ;-) I watched on the wall for months, and glad I did: I was set on a 125" screen size, but that was just too big at an 11' seating position. After watching "jerky action movies" like Saving Private Ryan and Hurt Locker, we settled on a 110" screen.

What's the distance from screen wall to primary seating position?


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Thanks - glad to hear you are satisfied with the 8000 also. I have been reading about that one for years and despite the passage of at least 3 years, it remains to be one of the top 5 best reviewed on projectorcentral.com. I am pleased for sure, so far. I will take your recommendation to watch a few movies. I was thinking of taking in the appleTV and then using bluetooth/wireless to sling my iPad's video and my Jambox speaker as audio to keep the effort down of hooking up all that stuff.

My seating position is planned to be 12ft from eyeballs to screenwall with a 125" 2.35:1 screen. Sitting on my trusty bucket, it seems OK and it was screened by and received the WAF also which makes me a little more confident that it is not crazy big for the seating distance. Any reclining would push this back further...

What do you think? Seems like it is roughly scaled based on what you settles on.
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post #79 of 118 Old 12-14-2015, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PApilgrim View Post
My seating position is planned to be 12ft from eyeballs to screenwall with a 125" 2.35:1 screen. Sitting on my trusty bucket, it seems OK and it was screened by and received the WAF also which makes me a little more confident that it is not crazy big for the seating distance. Any reclining would push this back further...

What do you think? Seems like it is roughly scaled based on what you settles on.
Ah, I missed that you are doing a 2.35:1 screen. That does change things a bit, as the height is a lot less. I went for 16x9, so my version of 125" being too big was for a 16x9 at 125". I'll repeat that Saving Private Ryan is a good one to screen for jerky action (it's 1.85:1, not widescreen, so that was perfect for me but maybe you need a widescreen film with jerky action to make your decision).

Get a somewhat more comfy chair so you can sit through a decent length of the movie to ensure the size is comfortable for you. We didn't notice it after 10 minutes of watching -- you'd notice when you had done so for 45-60 minutes.

We too used a boom box at first for trying things out, with the projector shooting at a white wall (original), grey wall (primed), and even a dark blue wall after painting but before deciding on a screen (and you'd be shocked at how well the human eye re-trains itself on what looks "normal"!). I spent longer than I care to admit figuring out what screen size would be "just right," but I don't regret the wait at all. It was overanalysis time well spent.
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post #80 of 118 Old 01-29-2016, 09:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Acoustic Fail?

I have progress updates to report and I know I am way late in providing them (work and life again...). In the meantime, please enjoy this entry for acoustics 101 FAIL, 2016. I found this in an executive conference room and just stopped dead in my tracks... Before I even knew what I was doing, I had my hand reaching for my iPhone camera...





Located beneath a shiny new Cisco videoconferencing setup w/ SHARP Aquos 80+" displays was this cheap soundbar located in an acoustic prison. Apparently, people kept trying to adjust settings, unplug or replug cables, etc. and this was the solution that the installation house developed.

Enjoy!

Updates this weekend!
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post #81 of 118 Old 02-06-2016, 09:25 AM
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Any updates on the theater? Looked like you were getting pretty close there in December!
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post #82 of 118 Old 02-08-2016, 08:10 PM - Thread Starter
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LED Lighting Update

First, here are some links to the content I used. I had done a lot of reading on the forum, and took much advice from another AVS'r, panino, who was nice enough to answer a few questions I think I had in the beginning.

Amazon is the source (of course):
LED strips (x4): http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-TM-...4989205&sr=8-4
LED controller: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...hps_bw_g201_i6
Power supply: http://www.amazon.com/NES-350-12-Swi...d+power+supply
Amplifiers (x2): http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Rep...=LED+amplifier

There are numerous other things that I used, such as the end connectors to transition from the LED strip itself back to the 4-conductor wiring, some silicon little clamps that I used to keep the LED strips flat in the corners, some long runs of the 4-cond extension cable, all of which I purchased through amazon and I simply went by reviews and if it was Prime eligible or not .

Some tips and tricks:
1. Make sure that you remove the sticky backing film from the LED strips at the locations you cut them to length if you plan to use a connector to ultimately transition into the standard 4-conductor wire. This film will not allow a reliable contact to take place between the traces on the LED strips and the plastic clamp connectors.
2. Recommend that you dry-fit and wire things first before attaching/routing the wires neatly as you will have inevitably missed something, routed a wire through (or not through) the correct hole, reversed a blue or a black colored wire, the list goes on.
3. Locate the power supply outside of the room as there are LED lights, fans, etc. The amplifiers are just PCB's so there is no noise pollution here.
4. Amplifiers require a 12V feed to "amplify", so plan accordingly - I routed these from the same power supply and just made sure to step up to a larger capacity power supply
5. I just sat my LED strips right on top of the MDF, used the stickiness to adhere, and a simple spacer block to ensure I kept a constant gap between the vertical soffit edge and the edge of the LED strip. SIMPLE.
6. When soldering any of the leads between the LED strip pigtails and say a run of 4-cond RGB wire, keep the heat down! I ended up apparently shorting out/melting one of the colors of the LED's closest to the soldering. I was not using any heatsink and definitely have a tendency to lay on the solder (mechanical engineer...)
7. Others, I am sure, but just ask and I can try and answer any questions.

I know, I know, pics or it didn't happen. Here are some shots with the ceiling all painted black, LED's installed, and the LED controller set to BLUE @ 100%. All other lights off, and iPhone camera w/o flash.

Corner shot:


View looking at back half of room's ceiling:


Next update will include some more LED pics and the painting of the first coat of wall color... ENJOY!
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post #83 of 118 Old 02-08-2016, 08:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sigma722 View Post
Any updates on the theater? Looked like you were getting pretty close there in December!
Yep, definitely some progress, but I am way behind in updating. LED update just added for you.

I must say - all those CAUTIONS about installing the projector slowing down progress... CONFIRMED! So much great syfy and superhero content, so little time.

Bear with me, I will chip away at the updates this week. Thanks for following.
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post #84 of 118 Old 02-08-2016, 08:56 PM
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The LED lighting looks slick! Really nice glow and diffusion to it.

You mentioned that with the controller you are able to dim it. Are you connecting that with your normal light switch? Is it a switched outlet? I'm trying to figure out wiring requirements to have dimmable rope/strip lighting, that can ideally be connected to one zone-able dimmer on the wall.
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post #85 of 118 Old 02-09-2016, 07:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sigma722 View Post
The LED lighting looks slick! Really nice glow and diffusion to it.

You mentioned that with the controller you are able to dim it. Are you connecting that with your normal light switch? Is it a switched outlet? I'm trying to figure out wiring requirements to have dimmable rope/strip lighting, that can ideally be connected to one zone-able dimmer on the wall.
Yes, that controller is just feed directly from the +12VDC power supply and then once you turn ON the LED's and adjust the settings (color presets, spin the color wheel, dim or brighten the LED's, etc.) this is sent out of the controller via the 4-cond low voltage wiring to the strands. So I just have the LED powersupply setup temporarily with a piece of 14/2 romex and a field attachable end to plug it in to a 110VAC outlet.

Pretty straightforward and seems to work well. Only complaint I would have is that my particular controlled is not back-lit at all which makes it a little tough to see what color you want to set on the wheel or locate the correct button to switch the preset/dim. I see there are many newer options now on Amazon so perhaps I will upgrade. I knew that a GrafikEye or higher end solution was something I could easily jettison from my budget so I did.
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post #86 of 118 Old 02-09-2016, 08:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Projector Mockup & First Coat of wall paint

This is documentation and supporting pictures to show how my progress as begun to lose momentum since that projector showed up, and more specifically, since the box was opened...

I started the mockup process using my trusty rolling work cart and the nice HD projector boxes to get the projector somewhat close to a mounted height. This then allowed me to roll it around a little to begin to test out my calculated lens position and how to mount the projector mount, where exactly to cut into that backer box I had pre-installed in the ceiling before beginning the OSB/DD layers.

Room status before:

I just bought a white bedsheet and "reworked" it to be the size of my planned screen frame/viewable to have something to project on (in hindsight, I wish I had ironed this before I so hastily installed it using a handful of cap nails to keep it from sagging too much). Don't want to make it TOOOO nice to watch yet I suppose...

Panasonic uplifting:



Shot of the LED's set to GREEN before I had painted the walls anything aside from grey primer tint:


First coat of wall painting beginning here. It is called "Knights Armor" and is a nice gunmetal-ish color which keeps it dark but provides a nice contrast with the flat black. I went with a satin finishe reluctantly for the walls after being so turned off by dealing with the flat enamel black I sued for the ceiling. Truthfully, I plan to cover most if not all of the walls with panels long-term, so this is more for keeping the room darker and usable in the meantime.




Next update will cover some more LED detail shots with some ambient light in the room, the projector mounted but not cleanly wired yet, and then some floor beginnings.
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post #87 of 118 Old 05-01-2016, 08:53 PM - Thread Starter
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HELP! I could use some suggestions for a modern processor.

I am once again way slow at updating for progress and hope to do so soon as I have my subfloor now completed and have begun to chip away at some other smaller areas so as to finally get ready for some column installation, electrical switches, and so on. But, on to the gear advice...

My Outlaw 950 (although working flawlessly after 13 or so years) has no HDMI switching, DD HD Master, etc. For those who are unfamiliar with Outlaw Audio, this is a pre/pro and I have (7) M200 monoblock poweramps for the power delivery. So, I am looking for an affordable processor with the following core criteria:

1. 7.1 (7.2) analog pre-out
2. Minimum formats supported of DD HD-Master, DTS-HD (or whatever the equal is)
3. 5 HDMI in and (2) out, HDMI 1.4 minimum
4. need a decent swath of analog connectivity such as component, composite, etc. No need for phono but nice to have
5. Room calibration that is better than average if possible
6. 12v trigger, IR ports, etc.
7. Bonus of being a networked receiver and having some app support to potentially alleviate some need for IR repeaters as my gear is all outside the theater

I am wired for all Atmos configs, but I am not at this time looking to go all-in. Not until this has stabilized a little more. I do not buy cutting edge receiver/processors as they are so quickly outdated. I do however spend my money on speakers and amplifications as it stands the test of time.

So - since an affordable processor is like a pink unicorn, I have begun to look at a couple generation old AV receiver instead. Marantz and Onkyo are the brands I would be drawn mainly to as I have more experience with them, but I have read some less than stellar reviews about 2013/2014 Onkyo's which have caused me to second guess. In the receiver world, they also screw you over by needing to buy a higher end model (like around the $800 mark) to even get the pre-outs option and then you still have the 7/9/11 channels of amplification that are just along for the ride wasting power as I will never use them...

Other option, and my original plan, was to buy the Outlaw Audio 975 processor as exactly my price point (~$500) but there are a few concerns. It is a very basic but highly performing processor but lacks a few items on my list but the main thing I feel I cannot do without is #5 - room calibration. I have read some great things about the Audyssey XT32 (I think) calibration and the Outlaw has NONE. So, it is just seating distances and an SPL meter. This is another topic I would appreciate some feedback on. I have read some but not a great deal about this on AVS thus far.

So should I keep combing Craigslist for an Onkyo TX-NR series, go with my original plan and pickup the no-nonsense Outlaw, or is there another idea. Budget is king, again, I do not want to put too much money into a processor as I have many other needs (like a screen that is not a Walmart bedsheet taped together). Appreciate any input and I will get moving on the updates for the build thread too!
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post #88 of 118 Old 05-03-2016, 09:28 AM
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I like the look of those pillars, are you going to have the same style all around?

When it comes to pre-processors, a few year older ones that aren't upgradable and missing immersive sound formats should be within your budget now on the second hand market.

Tower Cinema - 9.1.6 in a 12'x12' room
Input : Nvidia Shield TV, Panasonic DMP-UB400
Magic : Marantz SR7010, Marantz SR6010, 2x NAD T743
Output : Panasonic TX65EZ952B, SVS PB13 Ultra, Monitor Audio GSLCR 2xGS20 2xGS10 4xGSFX 6xBX1
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post #89 of 118 Old 06-28-2016, 07:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mashie Saldana View Post
I like the look of those pillars, are you going to have the same style all around?

When it comes to pre-processors, a few year older ones that aren't upgradable and missing immersive sound formats should be within your budget now on the second hand market.
Thanks for the comment on the columns. They were fairly simple to make and I plan to have only the "rear" ones to serve as the lighting switch locations as of now. My room is fairly narrow, and I worry about putting too much more on the walls that will further take away from width. I am thinking that most of the walls will be covered though with fabric panels so that will help provide some more visuals.

Regarding the receiver, yes, that is what I ended up doing. I found a fellow AVS'r selling a lightly used Denon X3100W that fit the bill perfectly for me at a reasonable price. I have been starting to play with more of the features and setup tools as I wire up more of my system components temporarily.

I will start posting some updates next.
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post #90 of 118 Old 06-28-2016, 08:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Subfloor underlayment

I had decided to go the path of a 3/4" T&G OSB floor fairly early on to add to the comfort and to pickup on some of the decoupling benefits. The only question was, what type of underlayment to use under the OSB. I had researched several options and a followed and contributed to some good threads started by others here on AVS as well. I settled on a product called DMX 1-step.

https://www.dmx1step.com/

There is plenty of info on there site, but it is essentially a plastic underlayment that creates an air gap and is padded on the underside (facing the concrete floor) with a layer of rubber/foam compound which prevents any "clicking" noise from uneven floor surfaces. This was a common concern from some of the other products I researched such as Platon. I ordered via Home Depot.

Very satisfied with the difference this has made. It installs simply by rolling it out, cutting with a utility knife, and I just used some duct tape to join the seams. Fast and easy - the ONLY thing that I can say that about thus far in my build!

Here are a few pics:



I have since finished off the subfloor with a single T&G OSB layer but don't have any more pictures to share yet on that (need to download). I have several more updates regarding LED lighting, final painting, electrical tie-in and column install coming soon.
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