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post #91 of 118 Old 07-05-2016, 07:48 PM - Thread Starter
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FINAL SOFFIT LIGHTING

Long time coming, but I have not yet posted some additional pictures showing the LED lighting fully installed and operational. So, here goes.

I think I detailed most of the basics about what purchased parts I used in an earlier post and, other than working very close to a freshly painted FLAT BLACK ceiling that marks if you just breath too close to it, it was not too difficult - just time consuming. I did more soldering than perhaps some would do, but I was not very wild about the quality of the clamp-style connectors used to turn a corner with the LED strips or to join another length. I did use these in some places however, and once I got the hang of how they work reliably, I was on my last connection. I am very pleased with the look as the up lighting and GLOW effect is very nice and defintely looks cool. My kids love playing with the color wheel controller to pick different colors or the RAVE mode that switches between various colors.

Here are some shots showing the corner details and the overall room. Walls have a single coat of paint and house lighting LED's are still hanging as I am deciding on if I want to paint those white rings, or let well enough alone as the center will always be white....





Rear corner detail with the deadvent return "grilles":


Shot of the room showing the incomplete room LED (downlighting), missing front fresh air grille, and that high quality spliced bed-sheet screen:


Next updates will show projector rough mounted, and then on to what I have been doing very recently...
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post #92 of 118 Old 07-05-2016, 08:10 PM - Thread Starter
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DANGER ZONE (reason for my slow progress...)

I can't say the forum did not warn on this, but I did not follow the suggested protocol of hanging the projector to check throw distance, seating, screen size, and then prompty send it to a trusted friends house for safe keeping. It is defintely gaining some hours on the bulb faster than I am putting hours into the construction but hey, such is life!

Pics are a little rough here as I did not have the electrical done at the time to have a good quality pic - I will fix that soon!

For some reason the picture upload is making this one look like abstract art...






The picture quality, even on my sh&$y white non-10,000 thread count wallyworld flat sheet is amazongly good. If it werent for the place I had to splice it to get the 2.4:1 width, I would likely put even more hours on this setup. I have only done limited setup to the projector, mainly playing with the lesn memory to have a CIH (constant image height) setup - this works very well. I have yet to figure out how to actually have the panasonic's remote control, which has a button called "memory load" bring up that sub-menu to just simply pic the 16:9 or 2.4:1 preset I programmed - but as I said, i have spent next to no time studying the manual as of yet.

I have been working heavily on electrical wiring into the new theater subpnanel, the large MDF column installation and wiring including switches and such. Most recently, I have been troubleshooting a possible speaker wire, amp or crossover issue in one of my Studio 100's as well as repairing a subwoofer to get that up and running to complement my Servo 15. Must take some fresh pics and post more on those things.

Starting to clean up the workshop from construction phase to prep more for design phase including such things as built-in cabinets in the rear, my second row "bar" height area, and acoustic treatments as well.
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post #93 of 118 Old 07-11-2016, 08:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Subfloor complete

I had showed the DMX 1-step underlayment I used earlier. I then covered this with a single layer of 3/4" T&G OSB to add the some mass and then have a subsurface for carpet. To that end, I followed the advice I picked up from several sources about shooting a few tapcons per sheet to the concrete slab to ensure that the carpet stretching step onto the tack strips will not create a halfpipe out of the subfloor. I did use construction adhesive on all the T&G joints as well as trying to get some on the non-T&G edges which is only so effective. Seems nice and it has certainly made a nice comfortable (aside from the splinters in bare feet) walking surface. Couple pics - not the most exciting... (and something is STILL up with the posting of pics for me - still is offsetting them and at time inverting colors!?)





Fresh Air Inlet Vent

Seems like forever ago that I had been creating my monster deadvent coffins and the associated baffling and duct board box for this air supply. I had detailed before about the turns/min and how many "pirate-ninjas" of air flow I needed (hoping there may be a Martian fan reading along if anyone even happens to be reading this - I know I am repurposing the actual units...). So, all that was left was a nice looking vent here. I took the lead from BIG about HVACquick.com and ordered a custom grille. I ordered the flange style mount which has (4) screw holes to attach, I think it was a 15 degree airflow routing to move the air toward the first row feet and away from the AT screen (wallyworld bed sheet) and painted in the grey primer finish which was suggested if you were going to paint another color. Hit it with some FLAT black exterior grade rustoleam and enjoyed one of the easiest steps of this whole project (too bad it was so close to the time I did the subfloor underlayment as that was a breeze too). Nice quality grille; recommended as it was reasonable for a custom order piece I felt.



Sub repair

Inheritted a non-working Paradigm PW-2200 from a friend and did some triage on it some time ago. No obvious bubbled capacitors or spend fuses, so I dropped it back to a local dealer that I used to work for some time ago. Just got it back a few weeks ago finally and was anxious to get it reinstalled. I checked it out prior to reinstalling and see that it looks like (2) capacitors were replaced and saw some fresh solder joints in the area. After routing a temporary sub cable, it seems to work great! I had always liked that sub as good power, and a punchy 12" driver. It is a nice complement to the sealed Servo 15 up front. I just have it sitting at the rear of the room until I figure out what I want to do regarding placement.



Next post will cover mounting the full height column on the right side of the room that has the primary lighting controls for the room.
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post #94 of 118 Old 08-09-2016, 08:00 PM - Thread Starter
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August update!

I have been researching and building my own DIY spandex screen. My cheapness, desire to try it myself and cheapness again finally convinced me to give it a go. I did some research on the DIY screen subthread and found many useful posts, fellow AVS'rs and ideas and now have a functional basic screen temporarily installed to get some viewing time on before final install, wrapping the edges in velvet, etc.

If you are interested, have a look by linking off this in my signature. I will post a few images here too once I get some more screen time with this and take some viewing pictures to share with everyone. Based on my opinions so far, it is DEFINTELY worth a consideration. I have just over $100 in this thing exclusive of the lumber (I had some on hand that I used).

Have a look!
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post #95 of 118 Old 08-13-2016, 07:13 AM
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Soffit Lighting looks nice
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post #96 of 118 Old 01-30-2017, 07:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Some updates as its been a long time (even for AVS standards) since posting anything...

I have been enjoying and putting some finishing touches on my freshly made spandex screen over the holidays and working on many other smaller jobs both in the theater and out. Yes, I used the word spandex, touch and enjoy in the same sentence.

I used up some leftover strips of MDF to manufacture my screenwall trim pieces. I had used my trusty 50% off to Joanne's ccoupons over the last few months to gather the black velvet I needed. I actually just used some 3M spray adhesive to get some time with that as a means to secure the fabric to the MDF - it worked well. Here are a few shots of the panels from the backside and a few showing them installed. What a difference these made (albeit in the few inches that is left around my screen) in terms of light spill absorbency.

Lower screen panel (largest):




I decided to let my screen large (no masking around the actual edge of screen like I had first planned). I like the ability to save multiple screen settings into my Panny's lens memory. I have one for 16:9 and 2.4:1 and will need a few more. Watching some movies recently that are "2.4:1", some have changed into something between during the movie (second Hunger games movie I think) and Jurrasic World I believe was something in the middle also. My screen actually hangs on top of the added velvet panels as it is now.

I then started mocking up some sidewall designs using some painters tape. I have a rough plan to put black velvet on the entire lower ceiling heiht portion near the screen (about 4ft away from screen) and also both side walls for the same. This should absorb EVERYTHING reflecting off the screen and give the most contrast possible. Then, once back to the area where my ceiling is full height, I will use some GOM fabric for the side wall panels. Thinking of using some exciting colors like BLACK and GRAPHITE. The vertical space on the side wall would be BLACK to look like a column, and I would likely use GRAPHITE for the horizontal panels then that woudl butt into the actual black MDF column with my lighting switches.

Here is a shot showing some of that:



Next post about the progress and ideas at the rear of the room & the framing of my bar top area for the second row seating.
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post #97 of 118 Old 01-31-2017, 02:59 AM
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Good to see things progressing. Thanks for the update.
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post #98 of 118 Old 01-31-2017, 07:00 AM
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I like the pocket holes you used for the panel. I used an pneumatic corrugated fastener for my frames. It's worked well, but it took me a few attempts as the force of them going in blew the MDF I used apart if I got to close to the edge. Now that their done they're extremely strong but, if I ever have issues I'll do it like you and pocket hole them. Nicely done.
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post #99 of 118 Old 01-31-2017, 06:27 PM - Thread Starter
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I like the pocket holes you used for the panel. I used an pneumatic corrugated fastener for my frames. It's worked well, but it took me a few attempts as the force of them going in blew the MDF I used apart if I got to close to the edge. Now that their done they're extremely strong but, if I ever have issues I'll do it like you and pocket hole them. Nicely done.
thanks. That kreg kit is an unbeleivable asset for building things. I actually find myself redesigning projects or plans to make use of them. It is good for MDF, but by far the least effective as edge joining MDF does tend to split the MDF a little if you overdrive. Defintely set my clutch light on the drill and DO NOT use an impact driver when working with MDF.

Many more fabric panels in my future, thats for sure...
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post #100 of 118 Old 01-31-2017, 07:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Bar beginnings

I have been working on what I wanted to do for my second row seating/bar area for a long time. I settled on a kitchen hi-top style design and made it a full 8ft in length off the left theater wall. This makes materials easy, cuts less, and allows for a nice ~24"+ walkway on the right wall which is not ideal, but a compromise to have room to walk and still allow for the theater seating in front of it to be as close to perfectly in center as possible.

I wanted it nice and open for stool clearance so I used a doubled up 2x4 as a beam across the front. The rest is fairly basic framing and I will cover it all up with MDF and or hardwood later to finish. I am concerned for any vibrations with all my attachments, so I decided to use some sill plate foam under all the bottom plates and at all the connections that touch the sidewall as well.

Some current status shots of the bar framing:






I had thought ahead and run a 20GA AC feed over to to the soffit to then drop down into the bar floor level outlets as I have been thinking about a a near field subwoofer right beside the theater seats which is at about the room midpoint, where I will have a null likely. Issue is that I did not run a subwoofer RCA cable to this position - working on how I could do that now... Another thing I forgot was an HDMI cable routed from the projector to the bar area. I want to be able to plug in a laptop back here and project on the screen - I work at home some and this would be ideal. Also working on how I may be able to do that. I routed conduit, but not to get from this point to the projector wiring box...

So, some questions if anyone has some advice.

I am going to attach the 3/4" MDF sheet paneling this bar framing next. Again, with my worries of vibration. I have pocket hold pre-drilled the studes so that I can tighten up the sheet from the inside to hide the fastneners. I am also thinking of wood gluing the MDF to the studs to help with vibration abatement. Should I consider adding something else here? Maybe some GG on the studs? I could use some more blue foam, but that seems perhaps more trouble than its worth... Guess I could also look for some rubber weather stripping to tack onto the studs also. Any other ideas? Also accepting "that is overkill" as an answer.
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post #101 of 118 Old 02-01-2017, 04:09 AM
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Originally Posted by PApilgrim View Post
Bar beginnings

So, some questions if anyone has some advice.

I am going to attach the 3/4" MDF sheet paneling this bar framing next. Again, with my worries of vibration. I have pocket hold pre-drilled the studes so that I can tighten up the sheet from the inside to hide the fastneners. I am also thinking of wood gluing the MDF to the studs to help with vibration abatement. Should I consider adding something else here? Maybe some GG on the studs? I could use some more blue foam, but that seems perhaps more trouble than its worth... Guess I could also look for some rubber weather stripping to tack onto the studs also. Any other ideas? Also accepting "that is overkill" as an answer.
Use sub-floor construction adhesive instead of wood glue. PL 400, or if you really want to splurge, a large tube of PL Premium.
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post #102 of 118 Old 02-14-2017, 08:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Use sub-floor construction adhesive instead of wood glue. PL 400, or if you really want to splurge, a large tube of PL Premium.


Yep. That's what I ended up using. Just construction adhesive. I will have some more pics this weekend once a little further maybe.

I like mdf as so smooth and straight but it is a pain to have to seal the stuff with zinnser BIN primer before paint and the sanding etc. I am using mdf for the base of this bar and have so,e design elements to complement the mdf columns I made. Thinking the bar top will be some quartersawn white oak I have leftover from a furniture pjt. Like the idea of some lighter contrast to the black mdf.
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post #103 of 118 Old 02-22-2018, 07:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Once upon a build thread....

It has been 1 year, 7 days, and some odd hours since my last confession....

Just wanted to revitalize this thread and let anyone following this know that updates are coming and that I indeed HAVE been working on things. I just need to collect some pics off my old iPhone, the new one and take some fresh ones to catch this thread up to reality.

Some teasers - carpet, theater seating, and last weekend velvet ceiling for the front ceiling (think imay have come up with a nice solution for how to get velvet on the ceiling with no visible fasteners, sag, spray adhesive, etc.

Stay tuned - will get to work here on compiling things. Hope everyone didnt't give up on me
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post #104 of 118 Old 02-23-2018, 04:03 AM
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Originally Posted by PApilgrim View Post
Once upon a build thread....

It has been 1 year, 7 days, and some odd hours since my last confession....

Just wanted to revitalize this thread and let anyone following this know that updates are coming and that I indeed HAVE been working on things. I just need to collect some pics off my old iPhone, the new one and take some fresh ones to catch this thread up to reality.

Some teasers - carpet, theater seating, and last weekend velvet ceiling for the front ceiling (think imay have come up with a nice solution for how to get velvet on the ceiling with no visible fasteners, sag, spray adhesive, etc.

Stay tuned - will get to work here on compiling things. Hope everyone didnt't give up on me
Can't wait...

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post #105 of 118 Old 02-25-2018, 02:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Floor - Seating to screen wall

As I have several areas to update (and only some documented on pictures at this time), I figured I would start there.

Here is a before picture showing the prep'd subfloor. As a reminder, it is a conrete slab with the DMX one-step plastic underlayment which has a layer of foam on the underside to prevent any clicking noises. Then, 3/4" tongue and groove OSB subfloor which is "floating" aside from construction adhesive between the tongues and grooves and then perhaps 16 or so tapcons holding this down to the concrete so that the carpet, when stretched onto the tack strips, doesnt pull up on the perimiter or center of the room.

BEFORE:


I decided i wanted something with a subtle pattern to it that would be interesting when the lights were on, but perhaps not too "not-blackout" when the room is in use. As I have been using camfered corners as a design element throughout the room, the stage has these as well. Since the carpet has a pattern in it, I and the carpet installer had concerns matching up the grainy pattern and getting it to look nice on the stage. I also wanted to have the stage be as dark as possible so I decided to go with a cost effective BLACK as they had carpet on the entire stage that has no pattern. Have a look.

AFTER:


As most people who have likely been to this step before might say, picking a carpet pattern here was not easy and there are not that many super-dark yet attractive options. I am happy with the result I got here - only now that I am starting to get into blacking out the ceiling and walls up front, have I begun to envision making people wear a fitted black velvet jump suit to enjoy a movie... Would I have made a different choice for the floor area now? - likely not, but i would certainly consider going with the darkest carpet you can get to pass the WAF threshold (no such concern for me as this is understood to be MY ZONE although I always like her opinions along the way). You can see parts of my theater chairs up there on the stage blocking the full effect here (I will grab another picture later).

As I hinted at with the title, the carpet is just in the seating area up front - in front of the bar height seating. I am thinking of doing some engineered hardward back there as I will have some bar stools and figured that a harder and slightly lighter colored surface may be better for moving the chairs and also for cleaning up any spills that may come. More to come soon!
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post #106 of 118 Old 02-25-2018, 02:54 PM
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nailed it!
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post #107 of 118 Old 02-26-2018, 07:26 PM - Thread Starter
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I took some better pictures showing the carpet and the stage detail up close. The other pics did not show the pattern in the carpet quite as well.

Screenwall:


Up close in the corner of stage to see the carpet detail better:
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post #108 of 118 Old 02-26-2018, 07:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Seating

This was yet another area that i was dreading as there are obviously choices here, but my options for actually evaluating different theater chairs in person (like most folks I assume) is slim to none. So, I did what I have always done on this type of question - pull up AVS and get ready to read a pile of build threads!

After enough reading, and my limitations of having a ~10.5ft OAW room, I learned my options were even slimmer. I needed something that I could get easily into the room for a single row and would only have (3) seats in order to have the center seat somewhat centered and then not have a seat jammed against a wall or have too narrow of a walkway into the room.

I settled on going with Fusion collection chairs from Roman, and specifically the Jive model as it is the slimmest in the lineup. Here is the freight delivery to my place:



A couple comments about these upon coming home to the pallet: they were nicely packaged with a cardboard shell of course and then heavy plastic wrap over the whole chair. The chari bottom and the chair back were the wrapped separately in heavy cloth-like bags which protected them from any snags or rubbing against another surface while in transit. I did not take pics of the "unboxing" so thought I would share at least that much for anyone with a curiosity.

They were quite easy to assemble having only to slide on the backs, screw the post into the tray table so that they can be placed into the sockets located on each chair. The operation is fairly quiet, the USB ports inside the armrest storage is quite useful, and most importantly - they seem well made and are quite comfortable.

I am 6ft tall, and find them to be very nice in the seat depth department, perhaps wish they had another inch or two in the backrest area, and have found I prefer to still use a thin pillow at my low back for lower support - some of that is my weak lower back as I always perfer to have a little more support there. They are firm in the seat cushion and very comfy when reclined. Overall, I am very pleased with these and it was a breeze to work with Roman. Satisfied customer thus far and I have had them since xmas time now.

Here are a couple of shots showing them in the room:




More updates to come yet
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post #109 of 118 Old 03-11-2018, 07:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Ceiling blackout

I think I have come up with a good solution for applying black velvet to the ceiling. I read quite a bit on the forum in several threads uncluding the renamed thread about the blacker the theater the better the picture. My criteria was I wanted it to be velvet (I am using Royalty 3 velvet from Joann Fabrics), did not want to give up much in height, hidden fasteners and not mess with spray adhesives now as the room is becoming more finished and the spray adhesive has a lot of overspray.

So, on to the method... I had used this same method for making my spandex acoustically transparent screen using Screen-Tight. This is plastic channel designed to be used to create screened in porches. There is a 1.5" wide plastic track with a groove to roll in a spline on both edges and then holes in the center to allow you to install the track onto a surface. Here are a couple shots to help visualize what this looks like - it is stocked at my local Lowes and comes in 8ft pieces along with a cap piece to cover the entire track and look finished.

Cross section:


Track with the spline I used for attaching the velvet:


Process basically involves installing this track which is about 1/4" think onto the ceiling directly. I used 1-5/8" course thread drywall screws to get through the 5/8" DW and into the OSB layer below (this is yet another reason to use OSB as the first layer). It has to be installed around the entire perimeter of the ceiling for starters. The fabric is less than 60" wide so, I needed to install more track to create panels to allow combining several pieces and also break up the area as I was afraid of the fabric sagging. So, I decided to create a narrow panel on each side, another pair of panels adjacent to my fresh air vent and then a central panel that is the same width as the fresh air vent.

Some track installed on ceiling:


Pics of a section of velvet installed (you can see the difference between the flat black paint with my knucklemarks and the velvet):



After getting one end of the velvet started in the groove with the spline, then use the spline roller tool (basically a handle with a small grooved wheel) to insert the whole length of the panel. Then, the tricky part for which you need some help from another person. You need to pull the other side of the fabric taught and then start the spline on the other side of the panel. We used a 1" diameter dowel rod to wrap the velvet around to pull evenly against the installed edge of the fabric. This worked well and we got good with it just as finishing up (of course). Then, do the short ends last. Trim off the remaining fabric and then move on to the next panel.

Once all the panels are in, it is time to install the cover trim strips. But first, these need to be coated in velvet also. FOr this, i used the spray adhesive approach. I sprayed a fairly side piece of velvet, then separately sprayed several plastic caps, and then laid the plastic caps down onto the fabric. Then, I just cut the velvet into strips between the plastic caps and then folded the velve around the edges of the cap as shown below.

Cap pieces, covered in velvet:


Some pics of the finished pjt:



I think the results look nice - it is all black velvet, you see the caps when the lights are ON but barely noticeable when the lights are off. AND - wow, what a difference now with light spill on the ceiling vs. the walls.

Next up - my scheming on the acoustic treatments on the side walls starting at the screenwall... stay tuned.
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post #110 of 118 Old 03-12-2018, 07:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Sidewall acoustic treatment DIY

For my latest installment in my monologue, I thought I would share some of the ideas I am using to construct acoustic treatments. I am no expert in this matter, have read a fair amount on the forum, have watched the acoustics 101 home theater geeks numerous times, and have decided to to take my inspriation mostly from Anthony's guidance on that HT geeks video. Perhaps at some later data, I can revisit more with either more $$$, eperience or fine tune with a professional calibration, but I want to keep moving and attack this with some trial and error.

So - onto my approach. I am using the ~20% absorbtive and ~20% dispersive baseline as my design input, for a given wall. I am creating the treatments somewhat centered in height at ear level, and then leaving untreated areas at the floor and celing to allow for some more refleeections for ambience. I will be treating the entire area you see here between the screen and the vertical strips near the white light can with the same black velevet as the ceiling area for maximum light absorbtion. I understand that this material will absorb some high frequencies (how much, no clue) so I am keeping the amount of absorbtion using the linacoustic to < 20% for this reason.

FOr absorbtion I am using 1" linacoustic, for 2D difusser I am using some of the same plastic Screen TIght channel cut into strips and installed strangely (more on that in a minute) and then some wooden 3/4" thick pine cross section strips that I found at Lowes which are designed to be used to seal off the end of metal roof panels.

Here is a look at the basically finished product on the front right wall, which will all be covered next with black velvet:


A little in reverse order, but the basic construction here is as follows... I need to hide 1" thick linacoustic behind the black velvet wall covering, and I did not really want to get into making tons of fabric wrapped panels and then figuring out how to properly hide fasteners or come up with the needed friction fit to keep all in place. So, of course, I gravitated back to my favorite plastic Screen Tight track again. This track is just over 1/4" thick, so I need a 3/4" material to space this track out from the wall surface. For that job, the options are slim for 3/4" sheet material - MDF or particle board (which might as well not exist in my book as a horrible product). MDF it is! Installed the MDF to the DW/OSB layer using 2-1/2" screws, then installed the track to the MDF using a mix of left over shorty screws. MDF was ripped roughly at Lowes to a wider width to keep all the MDF dust at Lowes, then I just made sure to install the track straight on top of the MDF. Note that I am now using the wider 3-1/2" Screen TIght track as a base mold and as the pillars of a column eventually under the white light can in the soffit above. This column will be BLACK (I think) anchorage GOM.

Here is a shot showing more of the construction phase before I had these random ideas for the diffusers:


Absorbtion
This is just pieces of linacoustic cut to dimensions as I calculated and then attached to the DW/OSB walls using 1-5/8" DW screws installed into some roofing cap nail plastic washers to keep this tight against the wall. Remember, I want this all to be invisible once the velvet is installed into the track, just like the ceiling.

2D diffuser
Call my crazy, but i like this plastic track. Maybe i have used it too much or stared at it too long, but i got to thinking about using it itself as a diffuser as it has interesting edges, is thin, and could help scatter. Then, I thougt about forming a 2D shape, like I (think) I saw in the HT geeks episode. So, I cut the track into short pieces that included (3) of the precut holes for installing the track. I installed one screw, then marked the center hole location on the DW, rotated the track out of the way and then installed the screw UNDER the track, then, bent the track back down against the wall for the 3rd hole. I then adjusted the depth of the middle screw (thru the slotted hole in the track) such that peak of this bent profile is under the plane where the velvet will be eventually. Repeat many times.

2D:


3D diffuser
I have seen many cool 2x4 cut patterns glued or screwed and then painted onto a 2x2ft panel. WHile I would love to get rid of my 2x4 scraps, I just do not want to have something that obtrusive in the room, and especially on the side wall of my somewhat narrow room. Needed something <1" in depth and this wooden profile I found seems to be perfect for the job. Not too expensive (couple bucks for a 6ft piece I think) and it allows for easy staggering upon installing. I elected to stagger this in a brick pattern, and used a spacer (you guessed it, another cutoff piece of the 1-1/2" plastic track) to spread this out to allow the bare wall surface to also form a cavity between the wooden strips. It certainly looks cool, and I hope it performs the job. Too bad it will not be seen as it looks interesting - but glad i dont need to paint...

3D:


So - next i plan to install the velvet over the bottom "panel" and see how it looks. I think the wide 3-1/2" plastic track, once covered in velvet, will look neat as the base molding and then the narrower 1-1/2" caps between the panels should give a nice finished "panelized" look witout the need to make a bunch of panels. As I said, for the remainder of the wall I plan to use various dark and gloomy colors of the GOM Anchorage fabric to allow some character to creep in to the room. Rest assured I will be asking advice on that one next...

So let me know your thoughts - am I way out in left field?
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post #111 of 118 Old 03-12-2018, 10:15 PM
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Wow. That is a lot of work. Will be interesting to see how your interpretation of Anthony's acoustics video turns out. I wish the video was available while I was building my small theater. Would have definitely influenced my treatments with less absorption, more diffusion and a more staggered approach to location.
Unfortunate that with all these room treatment solutions it is practically impossible to conduct a direct A/B comparison, and waterfall graphs only tell a fraction of the story. Regardless, I'm sure you will find that giving up those precious few inches of room dimension will be well worth the sonic improvements.
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post #112 of 118 Old 03-14-2018, 09:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Wow. That is a lot of work. Will be interesting to see how your interpretation of Anthony's acoustics video turns out. I wish the video was available while I was building my small theater. Would have definitely influenced my treatments with less absorption, more diffusion and a more staggered approach to location.
Unfortunate that with all these room treatment solutions it is practically impossible to conduct a direct A/B comparison, and waterfall graphs only tell a fraction of the story. Regardless, I'm sure you will find that giving up those precious few inches of room dimension will be well worth the sonic improvements.
Yes - I found that each time I sat down to start planning out an acoustic treatment that it resulted in me becoming more demotivated as hard to take in all the variables. So, I convinced myself to just follow the basic design as he outlines in the video using stuff that is fairly low cost and just see how it goes. None of this is forever and is easily removed - honestly it is quick too so not a big deal to tweak further later.

The only think I noticed in his video that my engineer-brain cannot get past is that he shows a staggered diffusion/absorbtion between the left and right walls - I am putting absorbtion at the first reflection points and then staggering diffusion/absorbtion from there until I get to my ~20% kind of coverage.

I do plan to finish the right wall back to the mock column I am making with velvet, before I move over to the left wall. So, I may have some sort of odd A/B test going on there while I am working on this anyway. Not intentional - I just wanted to prove out my ideas making holes in one wall at a time.
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post #113 of 118 Old 03-14-2018, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PApilgrim View Post
The only think I noticed in his video that my engineer-brain cannot get past is that he shows a staggered diffusion/absorbtion between the left and right walls - I am putting absorbtion at the first reflection points and then staggering diffusion/absorbtion from there until I get to my ~20% kind of coverage.
I also noticed that the left and right were not mirror images of each other and wondered if that would throw the imaging off. Was hoping he would speak to that but didn't hear any specific references in either of his two videos. My desire for symmetry would probably win out.
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post #114 of 118 Old 03-14-2018, 06:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post
I also noticed that the left and right were not mirror images of each other and wondered if that would throw the imaging off. Was hoping he would speak to that but didn't hear any specific references in either of his two videos. My desire for symmetry would probably win out.
Agree - unless something or someone sways me, I plan on going for symmetry - especially up front. going to start working on the velvet on the side wall next to see how well it covers and looks. Out of town this weekend, or I could get this well underway. Oh well, nothing fast about this stuff...
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post #115 of 118 Old 03-15-2018, 12:23 AM
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Anthony seems very much like he knows what he is talking about, the only thing I didn't acknowledge myself is the front half deviation from symmetry.
I placed my mix of absorbers and diffusors symmetrical. I very much like to have a completely symmetrical soundstage in my room.

"If everything is under control you are just not driving fast enough"

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post #116 of 118 Old 03-19-2018, 05:16 AM
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Your theater is the inspiration for my future build. thanks so much for going into such detail on your decisions!
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post #117 of 118 Old 03-05-2019, 06:44 PM - Thread Starter
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So... I have fallen off the wagon (or back on now?) and wanted to start updating for progress I have actually made and to start motivating me to keep working on theater content. Coming up on a yearlong hiatus of posting that has flown by.

Have had several other house pjts slip further up on the list - painting projects, garage organization pjts, etc. Best one was a small water leak into basement at times near a window that is close to grade that i finally wanted to fix before finishing in the now-hallway behind my theater which leads to my shop. Turns out what I thought was a small gap in a seal around the window was actually a contractor built deck that was installed w/ the ledger/rim board lag bolted DIRECTLY against the house rim joists with no house wrap or barrier of any sort. So, when rain came the water sheated down my vinyl siding, into the J-channel that is stitting RIGHT on top of the deck planks which sat right on top of the ledger board and therefore ate away at my house. This small water leak was over 10 years and i literally punched holes with my fists through 1-1/2" OSB rim joist cap strips. So after destroying the deck i just stained and sealed 3 months prior, I repaired all the house integrity and now need a new deck, or now a planned stamped concrete patio pjt in the spring. Unbelievable...

Back to the theater: I have continued experimenting and sweating the details about how to finish off the walls and such along with the hidden acoustic treatments I had started. I did go ahead and buy enough Joann's Royalty 3 velvet to wrap the entire first ~8ft of my ceiling, and both side walls. WOW WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I like the setup i have crafted of using the screen tite channels and the spline. It has held tight and is not impossible to install, but takes some practice for sure. I have not yet trimmed it all off and installed the velvet wrapped caps yet, but have a pic here that shows on completed "seam" showing two adjoining panels and an installed cap. Have been following along some in the "Blacker the walls the better the image" or whatever thread - may post my method there in case others see some value.

What took me a loooong time to determine was what i wanted to do for the balance of the room. I did not want to wrap the whole thing in velvet so as to make it a little more exciting to walk in, but did want to keep it dark. I settled on using the GOM Anchorage Onyx color fabric for the "column" pillar under the side lights (shown in the pics and not yet trimmed) and then a mix of Onyx and a patterned fabric called Reeds from GOM for the horizontal panels. I will post my plan there next update. Also have been working on the areas surrounding the theater such as the finished off HVAC duct for my deadvents and then completing the wiring headed for the rack area outside the theater door. More updates to come on those!

(sorry for pics - how to have the pics oriented not side ways or upside down confounds me at the moment. Rotate first two CW 90deg, last one is upside down)
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post #118 of 118 Old 03-07-2019, 03:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Finishing off the deadvent air inlet

I had covered the build of my deadvent system in a lot of detail earlier in my build, but had yet to complete the air intake side as it would be routed to a hallway which I still needed to create yet. Here is a pic of the now "ready for drywall" hallway that is right behind my screenwall end of the theater.



(If anyone can help me not have pics rotated crazy, please let me know (they look fine in Win10 folder layout...)

The framed in door in the foreground will be access to the deadvent "closet" and some storage. The framed in doorway in the distance is the entrance into my shop. I bought a 36" exterior door for that one to keep the noise and dust most importantly IN the shop.

I had to convert a 6" flexduct into a 12x24" filter-ready return grille since that is the largest size i could get to fit w/in the joists. I wanted to be able to filter out any dust heading into the theater, so i felt this was a good solution. So, i repurposed some duct fittings to convert the 6" round to a rectangular 6x10" size. Then I built a "custom" ductnox out of some 1" rigid foam and sealed up all seams inside and outside with metal duct tape. I made a wooden adapter flange to adapt the fitting to the dutboard box and wrapped that all as well with tape. Here is a view of that:



Then, I cut a rectangular opening in the side facing down to adapt the return grille into it from the ceiling side. The hard part was making an OSB adapter panel then to attach this whole thing into the joist cavity. I ended up just using my favorite Kreg kit to then attach this into the bottom flanges of the engineered floor joists so that I will be flush with the drywall, once installed. Until then, I just installed the grille right to the OSB so I can filter the air in the meantime. Here are a couple shots of that - you can see the flex duct entering into this in one of the pics.





Sorry again for the crazy pics, will keep working on that one...
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