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post #61 of 239 Old 05-04-2014, 03:32 PM
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BIGmouthinDC, thank you for your feedback. I've read a lot of your input and seen your HT, BZ!

Have not determined the screen size (120-130-140) and projector TBD (DLP-BENQ) for HDTV sports. There is a couch going in front of the riser, thus the 16' prime and the riser. My BAD for not inputting these elements.

Since it's an island riser will use; 30lbs roofing felt base, 2x12 perimeter and 2x8 stringers (saw your input), either rolled or lose insulation, 2-3/4 OSB with felt between, glued and screwed, with carpet & pad. Electrical conduit will be set into concrete when poured. Does this sound correct, what else?

The counter that occupies the rear 5' of riser is my building issue, how to build?? I like the rap-around solid front-side, but how to attach to riser? Top would be laminate something?

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post #62 of 239 Old 05-04-2014, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by udtsealeod View Post

The counter that occupies the rear 5' of riser is my building issue, how to build?? I like the rap-around solid front-side, but how to attach to riser? Top would be laminate something?

Building a bar on a riser is easier than building on concrete because you can secure it tight to the riser below with some long deck screws. Think of building three framed walls, front and the two sides about 35 inches tall, then wrap (Skin) with your material of choice, MDF or finish grade plywood. Add molding then pop on the top. Put an outlet under the top on the chair side.









For bar top height you want to shoot for 42 inches finished height.
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post #63 of 239 Old 05-04-2014, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Building a bar on a riser is easier than building on concrete because you can secure it tight to the riser below with some long deck screws. Think of building three framed walls, front and the two sides about 35 inches tall, then wrap (Skin) with your material of choice, MDF or finish grade plywood. Add molding then pop on the top. Put an outlet under the top on the chair side.









For bar top height you want to shoot for 42 inches finished height.

Jeff, isn't it a pain for the carpet guys to go around the bar? Would you frame it on top of carpet and screw it down or do you feel that would want to move ?

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post #64 of 239 Old 05-04-2014, 04:34 PM
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Now we're cooking with gas!! The diagram shows the basement and the great room. This is why I'm building an island riser system, plus the two spare bedrooms to the right of the HT. There has been updates to the diagram; 9.2 system, no HDTV only 120-140" fixed screen.

You can see that the HT sets at one end of the great room. My 1st row seating is on the floor and my 2nd row seating is on the riser, my counter would be on the riser also. How tall should the rise be built??

If the counter is 35" high, the seats are more stool type than chair type. The counter and chairs doubles for the pool table behind the HT. How much room should be given to the counter and chairs, I have 5'??

Regardless of the prime seating chairs the 35" counter section looks over their heads without any issues??

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post #65 of 239 Old 05-04-2014, 04:48 PM
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Screen location; on a 9’ wall, where would the screen sit? All front L/C/R and sub speakers are floor speakers Def Tech. Screen and projector will be 16x9 format, I watch 75% HDTV sports and old movies. I only watch 25% movies with PS3. So where does the screen sit above the floor?? I know this has a lot to do with height of the riser!!

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post #66 of 239 Old 05-04-2014, 04:50 PM
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If you put the riser in the room and it is not against a wall at the back, and the only walls up next to it are the sides, you will get some benefit with vents making the riser a bass trap but WAY less than if it is at the back. You are only "trapping" some of the bass that happens to be at the sides in a very short distance. The corners are the sweet spot and you don't have those.

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post #67 of 239 Old 05-04-2014, 04:53 PM
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Jeff, isn't it a pain for the carpet guys to go around the bar? Would you frame it on top of carpet and screw it down or do you feel that would want to move ?

Experienced carpet guys don't even blink when laying carpet around obstacles. It is all part of their job.

I would rather have it firmly attached to the floor or riser rather than floating on carpet and pad.
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post #68 of 239 Old 05-04-2014, 05:51 PM
 
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Experienced carpet guys don't even blink when laying carpet around obstacles. It is all part of their job.

I would rather have it firmly attached to the floor or riser rather than floating on carpet and pad.

Did you wait to put the trim on until after the carpet was down ?
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post #69 of 239 Old 05-04-2014, 06:07 PM
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don't remember on that one, if I do it before carpet I leave a 1/2 inch gap at the bottom, just like the baseboards.
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post #70 of 239 Old 05-04-2014, 07:18 PM
 
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don't remember on that one, if I do it before carpet I leave a 1/2 inch gap at the bottom, just like the baseboards.

For a DIY first timer what do you recommend ? Does it matter?
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post #71 of 239 Old 05-04-2014, 08:46 PM
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IMHO installing baseboards and any other floor molding should be done before the carpet goes in. Otherwise there is a chance the tack strip will get mounted too close to the wall and when you add molding you will capture the carpet forever. Cut a bunch of half inch thick sticks and just use them around the room as you mount the molding. Thicker if you think you want really plush shag carpet.
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post #72 of 239 Old 05-04-2014, 09:12 PM
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BIG, what did you skin that bar with? Looks like mdf.
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post #73 of 239 Old 05-04-2014, 09:28 PM
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post #74 of 239 Old 05-05-2014, 08:23 AM
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BIG, what size is that bar (length and width) in your theater (the one not on the riser)? Can four adults sit at it comfortably?
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post #75 of 239 Old 05-06-2014, 07:25 AM
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135 inches long, 18 deep on the ends 25 deep in the middle. As for four adults it should work but I can't recall ever having so many people over that all four stools were being used at once. It is hard to get some of the people away from the snacks and adult beverages at the other end of the room. As I've said many times, after living with this space my next theater will be a private screening room. Probably one row.

The reality of my theater use is that it is pretty rare for you to invite 10-12 people over to watch a 2 hour movie. If you invite 10 people over 4-5 are probably more interested in standing and talking around the buffet/bar. You get a group of people together and they want to socialize don't expect them to sit down and shut up.
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post #76 of 239 Old 05-06-2014, 07:39 AM
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The main concern I have currently is the bar height. I want people to be able to sit at the bar and watch games but my bar will not be on the riser as my riser is going to be a box in the middle of the room, not anchored to the walls. Based on my 130" wide screen I hope to use I think my riser will need to be at least 12" tall. With 3 Berkline Tangiers on the riser I'm worried people at the bar won't be able to see the screen for the heads in front of them.
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post #77 of 239 Old 05-06-2014, 07:47 AM
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My eyes are right around 60 inches off the floor sitting on a bar height (42 inches) bar stool. the top of heads in berklines is around 42. Add 12 and they will be at 54. You should also factor in that we are used to watching sports with partially obstructed views at parties and sports bars.
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post #78 of 239 Old 05-06-2014, 07:56 AM
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If the game is any good, I'm going to stand up and pace back and forth anyway. smile.gif
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post #79 of 239 Old 05-06-2014, 07:59 AM
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Both great points, thanks fellas!
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post #80 of 239 Old 05-06-2014, 08:06 AM
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What are the dimensions of your screen and how high off the floor does it start? My riser will be 12" with a set of curved TBD chairs and a counter for sitting was 35". But 42 looks like it's more in tuned? The counter/stool area doubles for the pool table on the other side of the HT in the great room.

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post #81 of 239 Old 05-06-2014, 08:24 AM
 
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If the game is any good, I'm going to stand up and pace back and forth anyway. smile.gif

I am going to get up and run over to the screen yelling at it eek.gif
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post #82 of 239 Old 05-06-2014, 07:28 PM
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I might have missed this earlier, but how did the riser bass trap idea come along. Have you done any measurements yet in terms of "tuning" the openings you were planning yet?

I was looking into a similar strategy vs putting actual subwoofer drivers into the riser since there will be plenty of volume. My riser may not do much bass trapping however since the riser will be in the back quarter of the room but not extending to the side or back walls. I am unsure if I can solve a null with it (I am pretty skeptical). Perhaps an actual subwoofer driver will fill in the null since the null practically falls on that spot anyway and will be near field.

Honestly, all the calculations in the world don't seem like they would be predictive and it seems like trial and error is the best way to deal with this.

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post #83 of 239 Old 05-16-2014, 12:19 PM
 
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The idea has been around for a while; it makes sense. If you are already going to build a riser why not use that volume as a bass trap ?

I think for a noob the broadband approach makes the most sense. If you are not up to determining the calculation or "tune" or playing with it then a broad band approach like long grates might work best. It's not specific like some of the well designed solutions that are matched to the specific room they are in, but it should give a broader effect and provide a conservative approach.

You can probably "tune" but changing how many grills or grates are open or adding or subtracting port length or volume if you wanted to go the trial and error result.
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post #84 of 239 Old 05-22-2014, 11:01 AM
 
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Since I don't have a back wall against my riser anyone think it makes sense to put the interior of my back bar on a bass trap? Ideas ?
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post #85 of 239 Old 05-23-2014, 07:36 AM
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So if my riser will be an island in the rear 1/3 of the room but not touching any walls should I worry about putting vents in it for a bass trap?
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post #86 of 239 Old 05-23-2014, 10:24 AM
 
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So if my riser will be an island in the rear 1/3 of the room but not touching any walls should I worry about putting vents in it for a bass trap?

Probably not. The trouble bass originates at room boundaries so that's where you'd want the trap and openings.
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post #87 of 239 Old 05-23-2014, 11:15 AM
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Also, is it a problem if I carpet the room then sit the riser on the carpet and carpet it separately?
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post #88 of 239 Old 05-23-2014, 11:21 AM
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Other than a waste of money and a nuisance if you ever need to pull the carpet up because of water damage it is no problem.
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post #89 of 239 Old 05-23-2014, 11:25 AM
 
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I'm no expert but that seems like it would be less solid or "floating" which might be a subjective preference.

I've seen guys in the DIY speakers and subs forum do stuff like that chasing "tactile feel" where they want it to rumble and feel it. But I'm not sure I personally agree with the decisions.

I think I'm going to nail or screw mine down with roofing felt between- and at least two layers for rigidity.

I'd imagine the issue would first start with do you want your riser to float ? Or be rigid and secure ? If you wanted it rigid attaching it after carpeting brings some issues because carpet and pad adds an area where tight secure contact becomes more challenging. Would you attach it at the walls ? Or the cross members ? Or would it be 100% floating ?
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post #90 of 239 Old 05-23-2014, 12:20 PM
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BIG, mine is on the second floor so no water issues. My main reason for thinking about doing this was that it would allow me to remove the riser for resale without having to recarpet the room. I like the dedicated theater as a room but the next owner might not. Everything I have done has kept resale in the back of my mind.
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