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post #31 of 130 Old 07-01-2014, 08:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by design1stcode2nd View Post
So that one room currently has four openings/doors?

It also looks like it's off the kitchen, why the desire for cabinets in the back?

You may want to mock up your placements with existing furniture and materials to get a feel for the room you will have. I'm thinking you would want the additional space at the back that the cabinets will consume.
Yeah. 4 openings. It was originally spec'd as an "in-law" suite on the plans, but the previous owners used it as a living room. I'm definitely closing off one of the archways and the door to the bathroom. I'll probably shrink the 2nd archway to leave it as an entrance way, and we're considering leaving the exterior door, but reversing it so it swings outward. The reason for this, and the cabinets in the back are twofold - we want a bar-ish area that we can easily access from the deck and we really don't have any other space for displaying our movie collectibles. I'm also considering putting my equipment in this area, so a cabinet would make for a good location. (with proper ventilation of course)

I'm open to other ideas as well!

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post #32 of 130 Old 07-01-2014, 04:47 PM
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Posted this over in the Speaker section, but thought I'd get some feedback over here as well -

Def Tech RSS/RCS II or III for my space?

I have B&W CM9s and CM5s for a 7.1 setup that I was originally planning, but the new space is much narrower and has no room for bookshelf or on-wall speakers. As a result, I've been debating on going in-wall/in-ceiling and the Def Tech's seem to get glowing reviews.

HOWEVER, which ones do I go with, the II's or III's? It seems the difference is the size of the drivers. I've got about 4.5' from center listening position to side speaker location (RSS) and about 5.5' to rear speaker location (RCS).

As these are surrounds I'm considering the smaller III's, but would hate to be underwhelmed by them because of their size.

Thoughts?
Just my 2 cents: I have four of the UIW-RSSII for surrounds and back surrounds and I really like them. I know the list prices are $250 more than the III, but the street price was only about $100 more. I got mine at OneCall.com (an authorized retailer) and they gave me a really good price - give them a call. I'm glad that I got the bigger speakers - I just couldn't buy speakers with a 3.5" "woofer" no matter how many passive radiators it had. The suggested crossover setting of 100Hz (UIW-RSSIII) vs 80Hz (UIW-RSSII) made up my mind. Once I got them, set them on my desk and powered them up (try that with other in-wall speakers) I knew I had bought the right speakers. I will NEVER buy another in-wall without integral speaker cabinets. I spent more than I wanted to, but those UIW-RSSII speakers are really impressive and I'm glad I spent the extra $$

2-Ch (HT L/R): Oppo BDP-105 BD, Adcom GFP-750 pre, Bryston 10B Sub Xover, Bryston 4BSST2 / Paradigm Signature S4 v.2 (L/R), (2) SVS SB12-NSD (Subs)
Home Theater: Bryston 4BSST2 amp / Paradigm CC-590 (C), Outlaw 7700 amp / (4) Def Tech UIW-RSSII (LS/RS/LB/RB), Samsung 46” 3D LCD
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post #33 of 130 Old 07-01-2014, 06:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mtn-tech View Post
Just my 2 cents: I have four of the UIW-RSSII for surrounds and back surrounds and I really like them. I know the list prices are $250 more than the III, but the street price was only about $100 more. I got mine at OneCall.com (an authorized retailer) and they gave me a really good price - give them a call. I'm glad that I got the bigger speakers - I just couldn't buy speakers with a 3.5" "woofer" no matter how many passive radiators it had. The suggested crossover setting of 100Hz (UIW-RSSIII) vs 80Hz (UIW-RSSII) made up my mind. Once I got them, set them on my desk and powered them up (try that with other in-wall speakers) I knew I had bought the right speakers. I will NEVER buy another in-wall without integral speaker cabinets. I spent more than I wanted to, but those UIW-RSSII speakers are really impressive and I'm glad I spent the extra $$
Thanks for the feedback and tip on OneCall. I'll probably go with the IIs for the same reasons you did.

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post #34 of 130 Old 07-11-2014, 04:34 AM
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So I'd really like to "wall over" these windows and give myself some additional poster hanging space. What would be the best way to black these out or seal them up so I don't have any moisture or bug problems. Once that's complete, my plan is to build a brand new wall in front of them.

I've been waaaaay behind in a bunch of threads, so I am a bit late to the party on your question.

Mold needs three things to grow: Air, moisture and a food source. If you use any wood in the construction of the 'plugs', well there is your food source. Rigid polystyrene works much better and is significantly lighter if you are sold on the plug idea, just caulk around the edges. Since you have casing all around the window I am betting you could lay a nice thick layer of caulking around the outer edge of the casing and push one big piece of polystyrene over top to block all the light and make the inside air tight. Simple, cheap, easy, quick to implement and easy to reverse if/when the time comes.
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post #35 of 130 Old 07-11-2014, 06:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Since you have casing all around the window I am betting you could lay a nice thick layer of caulking around the outer edge of the casing and push one big piece of polystyrene over top to block all the light and make the inside air tight. Simple, cheap, easy, quick to implement and easy to reverse if/when the time comes.
Thanks for the idea. I want to avoid a triple-leaf situation when I put up the new wall, so I'll most likely be pulling the trim off the walls along with the drywall. Is the casing you're referring to the actual window casing? If so, then I think I understand what you're saying. I guess worse case I could cut the polystyrene to fit each window. Can the poly be painted so you can't really tell what's going on in the window?

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post #36 of 130 Old 07-14-2014, 02:42 PM
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You could always remove the casing and just lay a heavy bead of caulk right on the drywall before embedding the rigid foam.

There's a number of ways to address the outside appearance of having that window blocked off....none of which I think look really that great from the outside. The easiest way is to simply paint the glass with a couple coats of black latex. A think a much nicer way is to get yourself a roll of 5% window tint which will block most of the light from getting in while leaving the windows looking slightly transparent. The better films will also reject any UVA / UVB / Radiant heat that would normally come through the window. If I were you, I'd go with the heavy window tint because it is easily removable when you want to reverse the process.

When you talk about avoiding triple leaf....are you talking about removing the existing drywall on the exterior wall and then building a wall 1" in front so you have two full-depth cavities of insulation? Or are you planning to keep the existing wall as-is and build an insulated wall 1" in front with the double drywall / Green Glue only on the theater facing side. My opinion would be to leave the existing wall as-is and just do the best you can with your new wall in front of the old. The triple leaf effect is really about low frequency permeating the second wall....which goes to the outside, so it shouldn't matter if there is a bit of extra LFE rumble on the exterior of the home.
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post #37 of 130 Old 07-15-2014, 08:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TMcG View Post
You could always remove the casing and just lay a heavy bead of caulk right on the drywall before embedding the rigid foam.

There's a number of ways to address the outside appearance of having that window blocked off....none of which I think look really that great from the outside. The easiest way is to simply paint the glass with a couple coats of black latex. A think a much nicer way is to get yourself a roll of 5% window tint which will block most of the light from getting in while leaving the windows looking slightly transparent. The better films will also reject any UVA / UVB / Radiant heat that would normally come through the window. If I were you, I'd go with the heavy window tint because it is easily removable when you want to reverse the process.
Great idea on the window tint. I'll definitely look into that. I was also considering using the BlackoutEZ solution which I read about in another thread.
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When you talk about avoiding triple leaf....are you talking about removing the existing drywall on the exterior wall and then building a wall 1" in front so you have two full-depth cavities of insulation? Or are you planning to keep the existing wall as-is and build an insulated wall 1" in front with the double drywall / Green Glue only on the theater facing side. My opinion would be to leave the existing wall as-is and just do the best you can with your new wall in front of the old. The triple leaf effect is really about low frequency permeating the second wall....which goes to the outside, so it shouldn't matter if there is a bit of extra LFE rumble on the exterior of the home.
Yes, the original plan was to remove the existing drywall to build the new wall, but if you don't think the existing drywall will cause a problem, then I'll go ahead and leave it. The new wall will be a full 4" deep (well, 3.75") to accommodate my inwall side speakers and electrical boxes for lighted poster frames.

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post #38 of 130 Old 07-15-2014, 10:10 AM
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Great idea on the window tint. I'll definitely look into that. I was also considering using the BlackoutEZ solution which I read about in another thread.
Yes, the original plan was to remove the existing drywall to build the new wall, but if you don't think the existing drywall will cause a problem, then I'll go ahead and leave it. The new wall will be a full 4" deep (well, 3.75") to accommodate my inwall side speakers and electrical boxes for lighted poster frames.
That BlackoutEZ looks like it would do the trick regarding the light, but it looks like the flip side is white or silver and may not be what you want showing through your windows for years to come.

Regarding the drywall on the exterior wall....since you plan to convert the room back to traditional living space whenever you go to sell the house and since the in-room soundproofing benefit is next to zero, I'd save myself the hassle and leave all the drywall and finish carpentry as-is. I don't even think you'd have to take the blinds out unless they are in your way with the new wall.
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post #39 of 130 Old 07-15-2014, 10:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TMcG View Post
That BlackoutEZ looks like it would do the trick regarding the light, but it looks like the flip side is white or silver and may not be what you want showing through your windows for years to come.

Regarding the drywall on the exterior wall....since you plan to convert the room back to traditional living space whenever you go to sell the house and since the in-room soundproofing benefit is next to zero, I'd save myself the hassle and leave all the drywall and finish carpentry as-is. I don't even think you'd have to take the blinds out unless they are in your way with the new wall.
I'm guessing you could put the black side facing outward, but I think I like the tint idea better. As far as the wall - I'm hoping not to move for some time, but if I do, I'm not doing a conversion back - that's up to the next owner.

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post #40 of 130 Old 07-18-2014, 05:20 AM
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Welcome to the area! I think you will enjoy it.
I agree with TMcG on leaving as much as you could to save on the hassle when or if it comes to reselling.
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post #41 of 130 Old 07-18-2014, 01:05 PM - Thread Starter
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@24Changer - thanks for the welcome. You're probably not too far from us.

So I've come to the conclusion that to get a better seating/screen ratio, I can only go with thinner cabinets in the back. My wife and I really like the BESTA Media shelving from Ikea, so we'll probably go with something along those lines. That means my equipment can no longer go in the back of the room, so I was thinking of putting it in the closet in the hall, but that will require some massive tear down! Here's a draft:
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post #42 of 130 Old 08-06-2014, 02:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Stage question - since I'm building this theater above a crawlspace, I'm guessing I shouldn't fill the entire stage with sand. Will 4 (out of 8) cavities filled be OK, weight wise, or should I only fill 2? The cavities are 24" x 14" x 8" so 1.55 cu ft. each.

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post #43 of 130 Old 08-06-2014, 03:15 PM
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Stage question - since I'm building this theater above a crawlspace, I'm guessing I shouldn't fill the entire stage with sand. Will 4 (out of 8) cavities filled be OK, weight wise, or should I only fill 2? The cavities are 24" x 14" x 8" so 1.55 cu ft. each.
That static load is not that heavy for typical construction. It's less than a piece of furniture.

You can also take another approach by purchasing high vibration absorbing feet (pods) to quell the vibration at its source before even reaching what it is sitting on. You could also make a triple layer platform from 1/2" plywood and Green Glue and set this platform on the vibration absorbing pods as well if you are concerned about the sand weight.
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post #44 of 130 Old 08-06-2014, 10:18 PM
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You can also take another approach by purchasing high vibration absorbing feet (pods) to quell the vibration at its source before even reaching what it is sitting on.
Do you have a link to an example of this? It sounds interesting.
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post #45 of 130 Old 08-06-2014, 10:31 PM
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Do you have a link to an example of this? It sounds interesting.
Auralex has a series of different sub platforms. Here's just one called the Subdude.

SVS makes a set of isolation feet that *should* be a universal screw-in fit for most subs.

Of course there's always good 'ol Vibrapods. Select and order based on the weight rating of your sub.

Taking a couple sheets of 3/4" plywood with Green Glue in between, attaching the SVS feet (by using recessed metal screw inserts) and then adding a Subdude (or similar) on top would isolate that sub from transmitting into the floor within an inch of its life. Truthfully, any one solution would be more than sufficient and eliminate the need for the sand route.
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post #46 of 130 Old 08-06-2014, 10:41 PM
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Taking a couple sheets of 3/4" plywood with Green Glue in between, attaching the SVS feet (by using recessed metal screw inserts) and then adding a Subdude (or similar) on top would isolate that sub from transmitting into the floor within an inch of its life. Truthfully, any one solution would be more than sufficient and eliminate the need for the sand route.
Thanks for the info and links. I now have these in my bookmark collection
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post #47 of 130 Old 08-07-2014, 08:02 AM - Thread Starter
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That static load is not that heavy for typical construction. It's less than a piece of furniture.

You can also take another approach by purchasing high vibration absorbing feet (pods) to quell the vibration at its source before even reaching what it is sitting on. You could also make a triple layer platform from 1/2" plywood and Green Glue and set this platform on the vibration absorbing pods as well if you are concerned about the sand weight.
I estimate the sand in one cavity would be about 150-175lbs. I haven't owned furniture that heavy in a long time. For 2, that's 300-350lbs, plus 80lbs for the sub. I think I'll look into the feet or pad you mentioned above. I'll definitely do 2 if not 3 layers of OSB on top.

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post #48 of 130 Old 08-07-2014, 11:37 AM
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Also found these feet on Parts Express' website. Much, much cheaper.
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post #49 of 130 Old 08-09-2014, 07:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Let the demolition begin!

I was finally able to get started today by removing all the base trim, crown, and moulding around the windows and doors. I also removed drywall from one of the interior walls and found a drain pipe and water pipes. Unfortunately the drain pipe is right where I want to put my side in-wall speaker, so I'm going back to my original plan of framing out a whole new wall adjacent to this one.
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post #50 of 130 Old 08-12-2014, 07:41 AM
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Whoa, great looking group of fellow NC folk! I am subbed and will love to see this come together. Maybe one day I will get a build thread up of my own...I really need to get on that I will gladly help out with any audio and calibration needs you might encounter along the way!

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post #51 of 130 Old 08-12-2014, 08:03 AM
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NC could have it's own dedicated AVS forum. There's a ton of us around.
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NC could have it's own dedicated AVS forum. There's a ton of us around.
Are we all here?
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post #53 of 130 Old 08-12-2014, 08:09 AM
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Present!

(although I am not in the "theater club"...)

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post #54 of 130 Old 08-12-2014, 08:11 AM
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Present!

(although I am not in the "theater club"...)
I'm not either, but I'm on the waiting list.
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post #55 of 130 Old 08-12-2014, 08:39 AM
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Hi,
I live alone with my girl friend and I'm preparing my theater project.
You said that you will not soundproof as much in this project.

Can you guide me with what would be a correct method to reduce sound and vibration propagation with a reduced cost?
Your experience is very important.

I was thinking insulation between studs and maybe double gypsum with green glue but it is expensive I think

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Since there is no real good place for all the NC/SC folks to gather and talk, I created a thread for everyone to hopefully start up convo's, get to know each other, and potentially build a better relationship with other close AVS'ers. Check the link guys, and be sure to subscribe, and invite others you know as well! Check IT:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/61-are...-planning.html

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post #57 of 130 Old 08-12-2014, 10:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi,
I live alone with my girl friend and I'm preparing my theater project.
You said that you will not soundproof as much in this project.

Can you guide me with what would be a correct method to reduce sound and vibration propagation with a reduced cost?
Your experience is very important.

I was thinking insulation between studs and maybe double gypsum with green glue but it is expensive I think
I can't say that what I plan on doing is correct, and many here will poo-poo my methods, but basically I'm just going with insulation, DD and GG. No backer boxes or putty pads, no clips or channel, no fancy doors or acoustical caulk. If I hadn't experienced the benefit of GG in my last theater I'd probably not go that route either, but I can definitely say it helps tremendously. Without the other stuff I might lose out on some of the soundproofing tenants that many follow, but I don't have the time or willpower to do them again. With only my wife and I to enjoy the theater anyway, I'm not too concerned this time around. (Plus, if I sell this house after only a couple years, I won't feel so bad about all the time I put into the theater)

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post #58 of 130 Old 08-12-2014, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post
I can't say that what I plan on doing is correct, and many here will poo-poo my methods, but basically I'm just going with insulation, DD and GG. No backer boxes or putty pads, no clips or channel, no fancy doors or acoustical caulk. If I hadn't experienced the benefit of GG in my last theater I'd probably not go that route either, but I can definitely say it helps tremendously. Without the other stuff I might lose out on some of the soundproofing tenants that many follow, but I don't have the time or willpower to do them again. With only my wife and I to enjoy the theater anyway, I'm not too concerned this time around. (Plus, if I sell this house after only a couple years, I won't feel so bad about all the time I put into the theater)
In that case hurry up so that I can hear your final listening impressions. I would love to hear somebody go this route and say they love it so that I can completely disregard the extra work as well
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post #59 of 130 Old 08-12-2014, 10:48 AM - Thread Starter
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In that case hurry up so that I can hear your final listening impressions. I would love to hear somebody go this route and say they love it so that I can completely disregard the extra work as well
HA. You sound like my wife. I'm in Miami this weekend and then it's full on theater build!

Visit the Lipszyc Home Theater! 1.0
2.0 done and finally posted! - Theater 2.0

And now...The Queen City Theater (3.0)
4.0 - TBD
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post #60 of 130 Old 08-12-2014, 12:37 PM
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In that case hurry up so that I can hear your final listening impressions. I would love to hear somebody go this route and say they love it so that I can completely disregard the extra work as well
I will say that with a drop ceiling involved, I did an extra 16" of insulation between the drop panels and the floor joists, along with the original insulation in between those and you can't hear anything upstairs...Except for bass. Bass is virtually impossible to contain with anything short of cinderblock or commercial concrete pours. I can rattle doors shut 2 floors above the theater. Goods news is you can't hear anything outside the house...

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