Finishing the theater door has been a serious mental block for weeks. I still don't have a solution for the door handle (more on that later). However, since necessity is the mother of invention, I set out to create some need. Then, I'll have to "invent" a solution for the door handle. In truth, I'm hoping one of you will step in with a solution.
First things first. Pulled the pins out of the hinges and staged the flat panel door for the face lift
The aesthetic design called for replicating the trim work and panels on the theater walls. The functional design called for adding green glue and a sheet of 3/4" MDF to add mass and energy absorption to the door.
Started by adding a layer of 1/2" x 4" poplar around the edge of the door
Then added a second layer of 1" x 4" poplar around the edge of the door.
With the second layer dry. The door was ready for green glue. Added two tubes of green glue. Thanks to Ted of The SoundProofingCompany for getting the tubes to me so quickly!
Cut a sheet of 3/4" MDF to fit inside the frame created by the two layers of poplar. Then screwed the MDF into the door to compress the green glue. The door became much heavier.
Then started work on layer 3. Ripped some 1" x 6" poplar to 5" wide for the two stiles and top rail. Ripped a 1" x 10" piece of poplar down to 8" wide for the bottom rail. Installed the top rail and two stiles.
Just then, I was stopped by my in house quality control supervisor. After a quick check, I got a thumbs up.
Installed the bottom rail. With the third layer, 2" of thickness has been added to the 1 3/4" door.
Next task was to trim the poplar to make it flush with the door. Started on the hinge side with hinges removed. Used the Dewalt Track saw set at max depth. Spent 5 minutes positioning the track, clamped it in place and then powered up the saw. Did a second pass to remove another 1/16".
The latch side required a bevel. Did a calculation that suggested a 2-3 degree bevel should do the trick for the nearly 4" thick door. Had to improvise with the track saw since it pivots in the wrong direction (toward the track). Ended up putting a 5/16" strip of wood under the track at the cut edge. With the saw bevel set at 0%, that allowed me to cut the 3% bevel. Did about 3 passes to get the right depth.
My wife came down to help me hang the really heavy door. Note: I need to weigh the finished door before hanging it permanently. The bevel worked as expected. Marked the door where I need to add the center rail. Took the door off the hinges and went back to work. Next step was to cut poplar to length and route wood for the center rail and cap to match the trim in the theater.
Then, added a 1" x 3" backer. Glued and nailed the center rail to the face of the backer. Then added the rail cap to the tops of the backer and center rail.
1) Patch remaining nail holes
2) Sand the theater side of the door
3) Prime the theater side of the door
4) Install 1/8" masonite trim on the rec room side of the door
5) Paint the theater side with Benjamin Moor Abyss (2 coats)
6) Build two fabric frames for the door
7) Replace the 1 1/4" hinge screws with 2 1/2" screws
8) Hang the door
9) Prime and paint the rec room side of the door
10) Figure out how to make the existing handle work on a nearly 4" thick door
Regarding the lock. Have had no luck finding a lock with a spindle to accommodate a 4" thick door. Thinking I'll have to buy another Kwickset lock to cut a 2" piece off the spindle (unless I can just buy the spindle part). Then, I would have to get the additional 2" of spindle welded to the existing Kwikset spindle.
Looking for other options... Please weigh in if you know of a simpler solution.