The Salt Mine - A Dedicated Family Theater - Page 8 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #211 of 341 Old 01-15-2015, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by RedStripe88 View Post
First, I got an incredible price on it when Best Buy was closing out - $1000. Given the features, that price was tough to pass on. And I would not feel guilty moving the Denon to my family room in a year or so if I want to upgrade to another AV receiver or pre-amp/amp.

Second, since I was not doing Atmos, it fit the bill for my build.

I have space allocated in my rack for an external amp, but so far I don't think I need it.

Are you considering the Denon? What are your reservations?
I'm between the Denon 5200 and Marantz 7008, I'm not 100% sold on atmos but don't want to get something and have to turn around and upgrade, I may leave this purchase for near to last.
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post #212 of 341 Old 01-16-2015, 01:19 AM
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Great job on this theater. I'm about to start my second theater, and my new space is much smaller than my last one...almost exactly the same size as yours, so I read in earnest. Again...great job.

I have a question about your seating and seating layout. I may have missed it, but I never saw a diagram or anything about the seating. I see that you didn't do a riser...so curious about how you are handling it.

Thanks.
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post #213 of 341 Old 02-23-2015, 07:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by billwil View Post
Great job on this theater. I'm about to start my second theater, and my new space is much smaller than my last one...almost exactly the same size as yours, so I read in earnest. Again...great job.

I have a question about your seating and seating layout. I may have missed it, but I never saw a diagram or anything about the seating. I see that you didn't do a riser...so curious about how you are handling it.

Thanks.
Hey Bil,

I've been ignoring my thread for way too long. Took a few weeks off from posting here and working in the theater. Apologies for the delay in responding.

We have temporary seating in the theater. We pulled in a Stressless couch and ottoman that we've had for about 10 years. Picture below.

Since the room is pretty small, we plan to buy an L-shaped sectional with at least 2 reclining seats instead of traditional theater seating. That should allow us to have two "main listening position" seats and 3 other spots for the kids or guests. We started looking, but aren't in a rush.

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post #214 of 341 Old 02-23-2015, 07:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Conquering the switch panel

The empty spot on the back wall has been taunting me for weeks. So, I finally relented and got to work. My main excuse for taking a few weeks off is that we had a couple guys in the basement laying porcelain tile for a little over 2 weeks. So, my tools had to be put away in the store room - inaccessible.

The tile came out great, I think. We did a herringbone pattern with 9" x 35" tile. We also had a two pieces of furniture delivered a couple days after the tile job was completed. Can't wait to stock those up with vino.




Back on topic. This is the spot I needed to complete:




Started by ripping the standard 5/4" x 4" FJ pine in half. Then added a 45 degree 3/8" chamfer to one edge of each piece. Then, had to notch out the back of one of the vertical pieces to fit over the flange of the MDF backer box that the two switch boxes rest in. Also, drilled two pocket holes at each end of the 2 vertical pieces.




Joined the horizontal and vertical pieces using the kreg screws. Waist height working table and clamps make the job much easier.





Then added four horizontal pieces. These pieces framed the top and bottom of the electrical boxes:






Added vertical pieces between those horizontal strips to frame the sides of the electrical boxes. Picture of the frame test fit after the vertical pieces were glued and pinned - before and after black paint.






Covered the frame (won't bore you with the pictures). Then cut two holes where the electrical switch boxes are located. Completely over did it with staples to secure the fabric around the switch box openings. Pictures of the front and back of the frame:






Mounted the frame on the wall and adjusted the adjustable electrical boxes out to be almost flush with the front of the fabric frame:






Finally, installed the individually sourced (from Home Depot) custom color coordinated (white) switch plates.




That was the most complex frame in the build. I have two more frames to build. Those two will be placed on the door.

My in progress build thread: The Salt Mine

Last edited by RedStripe88; 12-06-2015 at 05:38 AM. Reason: Fixed typos
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post #215 of 341 Old 02-23-2015, 08:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Off topic: Booming sound on an 18 wheeler

Took a few days of vacation to head down to Trinidad for Carnival. What a blast. Caribbean music (mostly soca), thousands of people who there just to party, party and party some more, and great all-inclusive parties (ouch my liver).

Why is Carnival at all relevant to this thread. Well, it really isn't. But, I thought some people may enjoy seeing the stereo systems that are used on the dozens of 18-wheel music trucks that move through the streets during the carnival parade.

Here is a shot of the audio equipment on 1 of the 3 music trucks that was part of the band I was with. I had to put in ear plugs after a few hours.


And another shot of the music truck from a bit further back.

Note: Please excuse the scantily clad carnival goers. The picture was taken on carnival practice day (Monday). On carnival Tuesday, women were also scantily clad but in much more ornate carnival masquerade dress.


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post #216 of 341 Old 02-23-2015, 09:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Bulking up

Finishing the theater door has been a serious mental block for weeks. I still don't have a solution for the door handle (more on that later). However, since necessity is the mother of invention, I set out to create some need. Then, I'll have to "invent" a solution for the door handle. In truth, I'm hoping one of you will step in with a solution.

First things first. Pulled the pins out of the hinges and staged the flat panel door for the face lift




The aesthetic design called for replicating the trim work and panels on the theater walls. The functional design called for adding green glue and a sheet of 3/4" MDF to add mass and energy absorption to the door.

Started by adding a layer of 1/2" x 4" poplar around the edge of the door




Then added a second layer of 1" x 4" poplar around the edge of the door.






With the second layer dry. The door was ready for green glue. Added two tubes of green glue. Thanks to Ted of The SoundProofingCompany for getting the tubes to me so quickly!




Cut a sheet of 3/4" MDF to fit inside the frame created by the two layers of poplar. Then screwed the MDF into the door to compress the green glue. The door became much heavier.




Then started work on layer 3. Ripped some 1" x 6" poplar to 5" wide for the two stiles and top rail. Ripped a 1" x 10" piece of poplar down to 8" wide for the bottom rail. Installed the top rail and two stiles.




Just then, I was stopped by my in house quality control supervisor. After a quick check, I got a thumbs up.




Installed the bottom rail. With the third layer, 2" of thickness has been added to the 1 3/4" door.

Next task was to trim the poplar to make it flush with the door. Started on the hinge side with hinges removed. Used the Dewalt Track saw set at max depth. Spent 5 minutes positioning the track, clamped it in place and then powered up the saw. Did a second pass to remove another 1/16".




The latch side required a bevel. Did a calculation that suggested a 2-3 degree bevel should do the trick for the nearly 4" thick door. Had to improvise with the track saw since it pivots in the wrong direction (toward the track). Ended up putting a 5/16" strip of wood under the track at the cut edge. With the saw bevel set at 0%, that allowed me to cut the 3% bevel. Did about 3 passes to get the right depth.




My wife came down to help me hang the really heavy door. Note: I need to weigh the finished door before hanging it permanently. The bevel worked as expected. Marked the door where I need to add the center rail. Took the door off the hinges and went back to work. Next step was to cut poplar to length and route wood for the center rail and cap to match the trim in the theater.

Then, added a 1" x 3" backer. Glued and nailed the center rail to the face of the backer. Then added the rail cap to the tops of the backer and center rail.








Next steps:
1) Patch remaining nail holes
2) Sand the theater side of the door
3) Prime the theater side of the door
4) Install 1/8" masonite trim on the rec room side of the door
5) Paint the theater side with Benjamin Moor Abyss (2 coats)
6) Build two fabric frames for the door
7) Replace the 1 1/4" hinge screws with 2 1/2" screws
8) Hang the door
9) Prime and paint the rec room side of the door
10) Figure out how to make the existing handle work on a nearly 4" thick door

Regarding the lock. Have had no luck finding a lock with a spindle to accommodate a 4" thick door. Thinking I'll have to buy another Kwickset lock to cut a 2" piece off the spindle (unless I can just buy the spindle part). Then, I would have to get the additional 2" of spindle welded to the existing Kwikset spindle.

Looking for other options... Please weigh in if you know of a simpler solution.

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post #217 of 341 Old 02-24-2015, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedStripe88 View Post
10) Figure out how to make the existing handle work on a nearly 4" thick door

Regarding the lock. Have had no luck finding a lock with a spindle to accommodate a 4" thick door. Thinking I'll have to buy another Kwickset lock to cut a 2" piece off the spindle (unless I can just buy the spindle part). Then, I would have to get the additional 2" of spindle welded to the existing Kwikset spindle.

Looking for other options... Please weigh in if you know of a simpler solution.
Are you looking for an actual locking handleset? If not, maybe you could use a heavy duty rolling latch (like this) along with dummy handles.

Here is a discussion of extending a deadbolt through a thick door. Maybe would be relevant?

Last edited by ChadA; 02-24-2015 at 07:41 AM.
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post #218 of 341 Old 02-24-2015, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by RedStripe88 View Post
Took a few days of vacation to head down to Trinidad for Carnival. What a blast. Caribbean music (mostly soca), thousands of people who there just to party, party and party some more, and great all-inclusive parties (ouch my liver).

Why is Carnival at all relevant to this thread. Well, it really isn't. But, I thought some people may enjoy seeing the stereo systems that are used on the dozens of 18-wheel music trucks that move through the streets during the carnival parade.

Here is a shot of the audio equipment on 1 of the 3 music trucks that was part of the band I was with. I had to put in ear plugs after a few hours.



And another shot of the music truck from a bit further back.

Note: Please excuse the scantily clad carnival goers. The picture was taken on carnival practice day (Monday). On carnival Tuesday, women were also scantily clad but in much more ornate carnival masquerade dress.


Wish I knew you were going, I'm from Trinidad, usually there a few time a year and have friends in the larger bands such as Fantasy and tribe etc.
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post #219 of 341 Old 02-24-2015, 05:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ChadA View Post
Are you looking for an actual locking handleset? If not, maybe you could use a heavy duty rolling latch (like this) along with dummy handles.

Here is a discussion of extending a deadbolt through a thick door. Maybe would be relevant?
Thx for the suggestion.

I had checked out ball catches based on another recommendation, but couldn't find much information about how much force it could maintain against the door seals.

These heavy duty rolling latches look beefier. Since the door and jamb are already prepped for a standard passage handle and latch, I have to figure out whether I can make the rolling latch work.

Will research tonight.

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post #220 of 341 Old 02-24-2015, 05:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Wish I knew you were going, I'm from Trinidad, usually there a few time a year and have friends in the larger bands such as Fantasy and tribe etc.
Information that would have been extremely useful about 3 weeks ago! And, will be useful next February when I'm back for Carnival 2016.

We did Island People Mas this year. The consensus is to try Tribe next year. Sounds like you have a hook up???

When was the last time you were down for Carnival?

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post #221 of 341 Old 02-25-2015, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by RedStripe88 View Post
Information that would have been extremely useful about 3 weeks ago! And, will be useful next February when I'm back for Carnival 2016.

We did Island People Mas this year. The consensus is to try Tribe next year. Sounds like you have a hook up???

When was the last time you were down for Carnival?


We were there last year, this year I had either Fantasy or Tribe, from the feedback Fantasy was crazy, I heard the Tobago get together was nuts as well, last year Tobago wasn't a big hit on the days we went.
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post #222 of 341 Old 03-16-2015, 08:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Theater door part 2

Although having a functional theater has been huge distraction, I have been getting some work done.

My updated to-do list from my last build post:
1) Patch remaining nail holes
2) Sand the theater side of the door
3) Prime the theater side of the door
4) Install 1/8" masonite trim on the rec room side of the door
5) Paint the theater side with Benjamin Moor Abyss (2 coats)
6) Build two fabric frames for the door
7) Replace the 1 1/4" hinge screws with 2 1/2" screws
8) Hang the door
9) Prime and paint the rec room side of the door
10) Figure out how to make the existing handle work on a nearly 4" thick door

I won't bore you with pics of the patching, sanding, priming and painting the first coat on the theater side of the door. Once that was done, flipped the really heavy door over to start work on the rec room side.



Picked up a sheet of 1/8" thick masonite from Big Orange for about $8. Also picked up a tube of panel adhesive. Ripped the masonite into 5" strips on the table saw. Then glued and pinned the two stiles to the left and right side. Next, glued and pinned the rails to the top and bottom. Pic just before the last rail was glued and pinned.




Then used the router with a 1/8" roundover bit to round the outer edge. A pic of the hinge side post router and a pic just before sanding and priming:






Sanded and one coat of primer:




Then, flipped the door over and sanded the first coat of Benjamin Moore Abyss. I was sloppy when painting the edges with primer. You can see the primer on the theater side.



Carefully painted the final coat on the theater side and let it dry overnight. Then, flipped the door over to sand and paint the rec room side. Put two coats of paint on the rec room side. Sanded between coats.

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Last edited by RedStripe88; 03-17-2015 at 04:52 AM. Reason: Added post title, fixed typo
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post #223 of 341 Old 03-16-2015, 08:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Theater door part 3

First, thanks for the suggestions on handles for the door. I spent a few hours researching the suggestions and other options. Meanwhile I kept searching for the all too hard to find passage handle for thick doors. After a lot more searching, I came upon this:




Yes it does exist. A passage lock for a 3.5" to 4" door. I found the handle at Woodward's Ace Hardware. In case others are trying to find it, the retail store's info is:
Woodward's Hardware
2343 N. Tustin Ave, Santa Ana, CA 92705
(714-541-5268 FAX (888) 915 1756

Basically, I bought a Baldwin Hardware 5455 Wave Lever. You can pick a kit to match your door thinkness. Kits are available for: 2" - 2 3/8", 2 1/2" - 2 7/8", 3" - 3 3/8", 3 1/2 - 4". The kit consists of a spindle to match the door thickness and two screws to attach the door lever hardware to either side.

I hope I managed to include most of the keywords that others would use to search for a handle solution.

The kit worked perfectly. Here is a picture of the handle installed:




I had installed 2 1/2" screws to better secure the hinge through the door jamb and into the door frame jack stud. The screws should be 1 1/2" into the jack stud.

The door weighed in at 186 pounds before the acoustic panels and OC703/OC705. Took several minutes to get the door in position and hung. Picture of the door hung. That's one thick door.




The next step was to install the Zero door seals that have been sitting in my utility room for several months. I ordered them from The Soundproofing Company back when I bought the green glue. I used the miter saw to cut the seals and automatic door bottom to fit. I must have cut each piece 5 or 6 times. I was paranoid about cutting the seals too short.

Then worked on the frames for the acoustic panels using the same steps as the other panels. Cut the OC703 and OC705 to size and inserted in the frame.




Covered the frames with the Wolf GOM to match the wall panels. Pictures of the finished product:








And one picture from the rec room side.

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post #224 of 341 Old 03-16-2015, 09:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Working through loose ends

Months ago, I had run romex to install an outlet in the rear wall, but had been putting it off for too long. I hate cutting holes in the OSB/GG/Drywall.

Got around to installing the outlet, finally. Started by cutting a hole slightly larger than the single gang electrical box in the wall just under the projector. Then, built a backer box made of 3/4" MDF. Sealed between the backer box and OSB with acoustic caulk then screwed the backer box to the OSB.




Installed a single gang electrical box on the theater room side:




Similar to the frame built around the light switches. Added a frame that surrounds the electrical box to the fabric frame:



Fit the fabric frame around the adjustable electrical box:




Then installed the Legrand Adorne pop-out outlet in magnesium color with a graphite wall plate. Matches the room pretty well. And the outlets are hidden from view unless I need to plug something in.






If I were to do it again, I would have recessed the wall plate so that the surface of the plate and the surface of the fabric frame were level. It's not awful, but I think recessed would have looked a bit nicer.

My in progress build thread: The Salt Mine

Last edited by RedStripe88; 03-16-2015 at 09:49 PM. Reason: Added picture of frame around adj. box
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post #225 of 341 Old 03-17-2015, 04:28 AM
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Amazing job on the door (and everything else, of course)!
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post #226 of 341 Old 03-17-2015, 06:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Amazing job on the door (and everything else, of course)!
Thanks!! I'm really happy with the final product after obsessing about the the door handle and how to finish the rec room side for weeks.

The Zero door seals with the thick door block all of the sound entering the theater. It is eerily quiet in the theater. A little bit of sound does escape through the door when watching a movie at loud but below reference volumes. But, I have to be within a couple feet of the door to make out sounds.

All in all, a pretty good result. I can easily watch a movie without disturbing anyone. Mission accomplished!
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post #227 of 341 Old 03-17-2015, 07:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Working through loose ends (part 2)

Installed the 8 of 10 recessed lights. But...

I have a problem with 2 of the Halo 4 inch recessed light housings. Two of the fixtures keep blowing incandescent bulbs. I've probably gone through 3-4 bulbs in each fixture. The bulbs last anywhere from a couple days to a couple weeks. Just before the bulbs blow, the light glows a bit brighter than normal - almost as if the bulb is receiving a higher then normal voltage. Within a few seconds the filament blows.

To be honest, I bumped both fixtures while doing other work in the room over the past few months. Immediately after bumping, the bulb glowed a bit brighter and then failed. At the time, I thought the bump had damaged the filament. But, now I think I damaged the two sockets.

Anyone else experience this? Thoughts on what the problem might be? Would really appreciate some guidance. I'd hate to have to cut into drywall to remove and replace the housings.

Potential solution: I called Cooper Industries today to talk to a technical rep. She said that I can remove the inner housing to replace the socket. They are shipping three new housings to me free of charge. Two replacements and one to practice removing the inner housing. Great customer service. I really hope that solution works.

The fixtures should arrive next week. I'll provide an update once I figure out how to remove the inner housing and replace it.


Now on to the update:


A few weeks back, I bought 10 Cree LEDs from Big Orange, the 4-inch 65W TW series dimmable. Considered the daylight color but ultimately selected the 2700K.

Taking the fixtures apart was relatively easy. Removed 3 torx screws on the back. Then gently pressed the two clips to release the LED cover from the housing. I say gently because I pressed the first two clips too hard and broke one clip on each. Had to use gorilla glue to reattach the plastic clips.

Covered the LEDs with a small piece of paper and taped in place with painters tape. Finally, covered the socket base and most of the wire with plastic.

Since the finish did not have a gloss, I did not sand the metal housing. Spray painted a coat of grey primer on all of the fixtures and left to dry overnight.

Next step was to pull out the Rockler HPLV sprayer to put 2 coats of the Benjamin Moore Abyss on the housings. Did one coat in the morning and the other late in the evening. Let dry overnight. Here's the finished product:






Reassembling was very straightforward, but went slowly to avoid breaking anything.



Then installed eight of the 10 fixtures. Pictures of the Cree LEDs off and on:





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Last edited by RedStripe88; 03-18-2015 at 05:40 AM. Reason: Typo and corrected two sentences
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post #228 of 341 Old 03-21-2015, 11:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Tray LEDs

About three months since the base LEDs were installed, I have the tray LEDs in.

Pretty standard stuff for the most part. I wanted the LEDs raised above the surface of the tray to avoid shadows from wires and the black light fixtures.

A few months ago when I was buying my Falcon screen @snickers 2 suggested using aluminum screen frame material to support the tray LEDs. Thanks for the tip.

After a bit of experimentation, decided to build stands that are about 3 1/2" tall. The tops of the stands have a 5 degree angle to allow the RGB LED strips to shine away from the wall just slightly. The goal was a bit of a side wall wash and light on the ceiling extending about a foot or so from the walls.

Picture of the stands assembled:




Strip LEDs on one of the stands that was used to test fit. The remainder of the LED strips were attached to the stands after the stands were in the tray.




After each strip was installed, did a quick test. Here's a pic of the second strip powered up in the tray:




Total length was about 44'. To avoid fading of the LEDs due to cumulative resistance of the wiring and LEDs, I broke the 44' into two 16"7" runs (stock length of each LED strip) and one just under 11'. Ran power from the supply to each of the three LED strips. Each wire was the about the same length (within 18"). Worked well. The LED strips are evenly lighted. Used 4 wire 16 gauge. Power is provided by two Meanwell 12V power supplies

Took the opportunity to clean up the wiring in the rear columns. I used the space below the side surround speakers to house the LED power supplies, controllers, etc. Pictures of the wiring in the rear columns after clean up. Right column provides power for right base LEDs and LED strips in the tray:



Left column provides power to the left base LEDs. Outlets in both columns are connected to the one switch:



And one poor picture of the base and tray LEDs on the right wall. 'Excuse that bright white spot in the front right corner. I made a dent in the drywall when cutting a channel in the crown molding to accommodate the front LED strip. I need to sand that area and repaint. Then, I will take a better picture and post:

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post #229 of 341 Old 03-21-2015, 01:37 PM
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edit. . .

didn't read down that you found the door handle. i guess it isn't a baldwin extension set though? cause when i called them they said 2.5" was as thick as they go. that's why i stuck to 3 inches for a max.

jim

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post #230 of 341 Old 03-23-2015, 01:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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edit. . .

didn't read down that you found the door handle. i guess it isn't a baldwin extension set though? cause when i called them they said 2.5" was as thick as they go. that's why i stuck to 3 inches for a max.

jim
I think you're right Jim.

I'm guessing Woodward's Ace Hardware is sourcing the thick door kits from a supplier other than Baldwin because I couldn't find any 4" thick door kits on the Baldwin website. My order consisted of the standard Baldwin wave passage handle plus a bag holding the spindle for the 3.5"-4" door and 4 long screws.

Business opportunity: Maybe Ted and John at The Soundproofing Company should offer thick door kits for a couple types of locks like Baldwin. There's got to be pretty good margin if people like me are willing to pay $15 for a roughly 4" piece of steel and a couple screws. More importantly, offering those would be really convenient for their customers.
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My in progress build thread: The Salt Mine
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post #231 of 341 Old 04-24-2015, 04:27 PM
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Awesome job on the door and the LED lights. I'm still trying to figure mine out. Excellent work.

Actually, part of the reason I had to post this was to do my part to keep your thread from falling into the "kingdom of irrelevant suckage". Before somebody else thinks I'm being insulting...do a search. @RedStripe88 ;will get it.

Seriously, though...love how it turned out. I bet you're enjoying it.

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My latest theater build: Whisper Mountain Theater
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post #232 of 341 Old 04-24-2015, 08:25 PM
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Yeah, this is one of those threads that you wonder why it's not far more popular than it is. @RedStripe88 stuffed it full of very useful info and it's sweet looking, too!
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post #233 of 341 Old 04-24-2015, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by RedStripe88 View Post
Finishing the theater door has been a serious mental block for weeks. I still don't have a solution for the door handle (more on that later). However, since necessity is the mother of invention, I set out to create some need. Then, I'll have to "invent" a solution for the door handle. In truth, I'm hoping one of you will step in with a solution.

First things first. Pulled the pins out of the hinges and staged the flat panel door for the face lift




The aesthetic design called for replicating the trim work and panels on the theater walls. The functional design called for adding green glue and a sheet of 3/4" MDF to add mass and energy absorption to the door.

Started by adding a layer of 1/2" x 4" poplar around the edge of the door




Then added a second layer of 1" x 4" poplar around the edge of the door.






With the second layer dry. The door was ready for green glue. Added two tubes of green glue. Thanks to Ted of The SoundProofingCompany for getting the tubes to me so quickly!




Cut a sheet of 3/4" MDF to fit inside the frame created by the two layers of poplar. Then screwed the MDF into the door to compress the green glue. The door became much heavier.




Then started work on layer 3. Ripped some 1" x 6" poplar to 5" wide for the two stiles and top rail. Ripped a 1" x 10" piece of poplar down to 8" wide for the bottom rail. Installed the top rail and two stiles.




Just then, I was stopped by my in house quality control supervisor. After a quick check, I got a thumbs up.




Installed the bottom rail. With the third layer, 2" of thickness has been added to the 1 3/4" door.

Next task was to trim the poplar to make it flush with the door. Started on the hinge side with hinges removed. Used the Dewalt Track saw set at max depth. Spent 5 minutes positioning the track, clamped it in place and then powered up the saw. Did a second pass to remove another 1/16".




The latch side required a bevel. Did a calculation that suggested a 2-3 degree bevel should do the trick for the nearly 4" thick door. Had to improvise with the track saw since it pivots in the wrong direction (toward the track). Ended up putting a 5/16" strip of wood under the track at the cut edge. With the saw bevel set at 0%, that allowed me to cut the 3% bevel. Did about 3 passes to get the right depth.




My wife came down to help me hang the really heavy door. Note: I need to weigh the finished door before hanging it permanently. The bevel worked as expected. Marked the door where I need to add the center rail. Took the door off the hinges and went back to work. Next step was to cut poplar to length and route wood for the center rail and cap to match the trim in the theater.

Then, added a 1" x 3" backer. Glued and nailed the center rail to the face of the backer. Then added the rail cap to the tops of the backer and center rail.








Next steps:
1) Patch remaining nail holes
2) Sand the theater side of the door
3) Prime the theater side of the door
4) Install 1/8" masonite trim on the rec room side of the door
5) Paint the theater side with Benjamin Moor Abyss (2 coats)
6) Build two fabric frames for the door
7) Replace the 1 1/4" hinge screws with 2 1/2" screws
8) Hang the door
9) Prime and paint the rec room side of the door
10) Figure out how to make the existing handle work on a nearly 4" thick door

Regarding the lock. Have had no luck finding a lock with a spindle to accommodate a 4" thick door. Thinking I'll have to buy another Kwickset lock to cut a 2" piece off the spindle (unless I can just buy the spindle part). Then, I would have to get the additional 2" of spindle welded to the existing Kwikset spindle.

Looking for other options... Please weigh in if you know of a simpler solution.
Holy Mother of................................

Reminds me of this door!!



Nice Job!

My door is where near as impressive as yours! And it was an expensive custom door!!!!!
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post #234 of 341 Old 04-27-2015, 04:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Holy Mother of................................

Reminds me of this door!!



Nice Job!

My door is where near as impressive as yours! And it was an expensive custom door!!!!!
That's high praise coming from you! Thanks.

That pic is pretty much what it looks like when my 6 year-old is opening the door. But, it works as expected. Had some guests over this weekend. They were astonished by how much sound the door blocked.

My in progress build thread: The Salt Mine
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post #235 of 341 Old 04-27-2015, 04:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Awesome job on the door and the LED lights. I'm still trying to figure mine out. Excellent work.

Actually, part of the reason I had to post this was to do my part to keep your thread from falling into the "kingdom of irrelevant suckage". Before somebody else thinks I'm being insulting...do a search. @RedStripe88 ;will get it.

Seriously, though...love how it turned out. I bet you're enjoying it.
I'm going to work hard to avoid @Mfusick 's KIS ("Kingdom of Irrelevant Suckage").

I've been enjoying it a bit too much, the 10 things that I would have knocked out in a Saturday afternoon back in November, now takes about 4 weeks. Every now and then, I can both watch a movie and get stuff done in the basement without getting sucked in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by granroth View Post
Yeah, this is one of those threads that you wonder why it's not far more popular than it is. @RedStripe88 stuffed it full of very useful info and it's sweet looking, too!
Thanks @granroth . Maybe I need a marketing plan? Seriously, I'm good if the thread is helpful but not popular. Although, I didn't have the patience to document my build the way you have - quite well done.

My in progress build thread: The Salt Mine

Last edited by RedStripe88; 04-27-2015 at 06:34 AM.
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post #236 of 341 Old 04-27-2015, 05:29 AM
 
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That door^. Lmao.

I can understand the time table thing. I said I was going to measure my LCR this weekend and got nothing done. Sometimes life just gets in the way.
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post #237 of 341 Old 04-27-2015, 05:30 AM
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I thought this thread was and is quite popular. I visit this thread many times a week. It's one of those threads where I can (and do, frequently) pick a random page and just start reading. It's like a DIY encyclopedia of excellence.
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post #238 of 341 Old 04-27-2015, 05:32 AM
 
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I agree Matt. ^

I think sometimes there is an effect that when it is your own thread you kind of feel it's less popular, which is funny when at the same time there is a legion of readers and lurkers secretly jealous. This is one of those threads.
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post #239 of 341 Old 04-28-2015, 06:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BrolicBeast View Post
I thought this thread was and is quite popular. I visit this thread many times a week. It's one of those threads where I can (and do, frequently) pick a random page and just start reading. It's like a DIY encyclopedia of excellence.
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I agree Matt. ^

I think sometimes there is an effect that when it is your own thread you kind of feel it's less popular, which is funny when at the same time there is a legion of readers and lurkers secretly jealous. This is one of those threads.
Thanks guys! I have to admit that I was one of those lurkers for several years, so I can certainly relate.

Now, back to updating the thread.

My in progress build thread: The Salt Mine
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post #240 of 341 Old 04-28-2015, 07:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Worked on finishing the rack opening over the past couple weeks. The rack opening had been unfinished since January.

I picked up poplar trim and jamb a few weeks back. Also bought 120 feet of 1" x 8" pine to make baseboard for the basement. Spent a few hours one weekend sanding all of the wood, then primed and sanded. Used the router to put a 3/8" chamfer on the top edge of the base board.

Installed the jamb to create an opening about 1" wider and 1 1/2" taller than the rack. The opening was pretty plumb so didn't need much in the way of shims. Then installed casing on the two sides and top. Had to make a small custom piece for the bottom because the distance between the jamb and floor was less than 2". Too short for the 3 3/4 inch casing.

A few pictures of the before and after:









The wires were also a tangled mess. I wanted a neat way to route the wires from the drywall under the stairs down to the rack. I considered installing a couple 2" PVC pipes, but wasn't sure how to deal with the slanted drywall under the stairs. I had a bunch of leftover plywood, so I decided to see what I could make.

This is what I came up with. It isn't pretty, but it gets the job done.





Now, I have to paint the room. Not looking forward to that.
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My in progress build thread: The Salt Mine

Last edited by RedStripe88; 04-30-2015 at 12:39 PM. Reason: Fixed typo
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