Progress! My framers only come on Saturday and Sunday... progress isn't as fast as I'd like but the they are doing a great job and $35/hr for a two man crew ain't too shabby.
- The false floor on the lower level of the theater is now sheeted completely. We laid the 2x4s flat and anchored with concrete pins. 24" on center horizontal blocks every 48" to anchor OSB. As you'll recall I only just caught the sheeting the false floor halfway through to let them know my plans to insulate beneath. I made the decision to not tear up what they sheeted (8 feet total, 4' of which will be covered by insulated stage). I insulated the rear portion. I wondered hoe much of a difference it would make. I walked and stomped around the false floor and you can definitely tell what part of the floor is insulated. The theater is still concrete and 'boomy and echoey' but when you step on a non-insulated poriton there is definitely more of a hollow boom. I'm sure this will be reduced once everything is finished and I have pad and carpet but worth noting.
-We attached half of the framed ceiling to the underside of the Spandeck concrete. This is the part of the build that has been given me the most anxiety the last 3 years of planning the theater. I even got advice on this from
... THE LEGEND back in the day regarding this. My brother lent me his rotary hammer and I was planning on using Tapcons and construction adhesive to mount the flat 2x4s to the ceiling. However, my framer said that in the dozen or so under-garage theaters he has done he just used the construction adhesive and Ramset concrete pins. Yesterday I was mulling this over and I wanted to test the adhesive stregth of the glue and the Ramset pins independently. So I had him take two 12" 2x4s and Ramset one and glue the other. I was concerned the spandeck would be too hard and it would just explode a pocked cavity and no actually set. I was wrong. In the three Ramset tests he did they were all lodge so firmly that I had to put all my weight on the crow bar which finally broke the pin... it actually didn't displodge the other half which is still in the conrete ceiling. Impressive. The glue was also impressive which had only cured for about 18 hours. I was convinced that the glue and Ramset pins every couple of feet on the green plate would be the most logical way forward. We used studs on Saturday to set the glued framing on ceiling and once dry we pinned on Sunday (we fired each pin twice to get flush with lumber).
-I am framing the treated 2x4s on the ceiling 24" inside to inside so I can make easy use of the pre-scored rigid foam. We are then going to fir the ceiling down a further 1 1/2" with non-treated 2x4s perpendicular to the treated/concrete-pinned 2x4s. We will frame the non-treated 24" on center for the sheetrock joints support. Total finished cavity will be 3" from Sheetrock to concrete.
-The platform is framed! I ended up framing the walls 1" from the concrete like
recommended. 16" on center. The platform is framed with 2x10s 12" on center over a 13 foot span. The back stud wall is not mechanically attached tot he concrete wall and since the ledger beam supporting the joist hangers are simply nailed to the stud wall (shear strength not that great) we installed posts under the ledger beam every 48" for additional support. For the front wall we put two 2x10s running width of the room on the green plate of the false floor and blocked out the end of the joists. Planning on an addition two blocks per cavity in the platform for additional stability and sturdiness. The platform is solid.
- Funny thing happened. I was in the garage and the framers were pounding and talking. I have never been in the garage while someone was in the the theater below.... I traced the noise to a crack where the poured concrete on top of the spandeck meets the foundation and I could hear their conversation through the crack. Not good. I took a bowl of water and poured it down the crack (thinking the framers are gonna be saying "WTF!" if it leaked)... and sure enough.... "WTF!!!" My spandeck waterproofers a few years ago didn't.... waterproof. I got some gap filling foam and treated the underside of the ceiling but this has moved up my plans to do a full silicone joint seal and epoxy overlay. Getting bids tomorrow.
-Thinking about the HVAC returns in the rear of the room. I want to do both returns high but I'm looking at the wall cavity I have and its minimal to say the least. I have about 4 1/2 inches to work with. I'm thinking of getting 1" rigid foam insulation and running that in the the wall cavity against the concrete giving me 3 1/2 inches of ductless cavity for my air passage for the return. Purpose of this would to be about to run the return high. Doing it low or in floor would be no problem but I'm more worries about this room heating up than getting too cool. Thoughts on this appreciated?
Up next this week is finalizing HVAC, running conduit and low voltage. For framing we just need to sheet platform, frame columns, stage, and stairs and we should be gravy.