ask them to kerf and weatherstrip the jambs, add a sweep, as well as cut the door 1" longer. There will not be any space there for airflow between rooms as that's a sound leak. If too long, you can always plane the bottom as required onsite. I'm having to add MDF to the bottom of my short door to fill the gap.
I fear trying to get the workers to correctly build a proper door for my theater. I've managed to get them to figure out double decoupled walls and the drywall guy knows green glue and proper technique there... but the door worries me. These premade doors for recording studios are not cheap, but are they as/more effective than the DIY?
I've never bought one of those doors but I can tell you adding two layers of 1/2 inch MDF to a 1 3/4 solid core door is pretty beefy. Did that at curve frenzy.
You should be aware that if you have an in swinging door there will be nothing behind the Jamb to drive extra long screws into to help support the weight.
If you have an oversize rough-in you can add custom cut (finished dimensions of drywall to drywall) 2x material that cantilevers over the edge of channel and drywall. Or. downsize your door plans accordingly.
Fwiw... I used construction adhesive and lag bolts to increase the jamb thickness and make up for the additional thickness of the Channel/DW on an inswing to bring it out flush without sacrificing width in the original framing... Something like this....