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-   -   DIY ConcreteBunker Rustic Dream HT - 11'scrn, 11.2chnl, 8x18 IBsubs, 28.8kw/FINISHED (https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-dedicated-theater-design-construction/1751770-diy-concretebunker-rustic-dream-ht-11scrn-11-2chnl-8x18-ibsubs-28-8kw-finished.html)

rms8 11-07-2014 08:52 AM

DIY ConcreteBunker Rustic Dream HT - 11'scrn, 11.2chnl, 8x18 IBsubs, 28.8kw/FINISHED
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Roughly 3 years ago we decide to build our dream home with of course my dream theater. I've built a HT in each of our previous homes, but each had limitations on design due to placement of support beams/poles, Radon vents, HVAC duct....This go 'round I wanted to ELIMINATE the restrictions. Since we were designing our home with an architect I decided to have a dedicated space in the basement devoid of any handicaps. This entailed creating a livable space below the 3 car garage with the use of SpanCrete.

Every single aspect of this home theater is DIY. I designed this space, selected type and location of room treatments, material and equipment choice, framing, electrical, plumbing....The ONLY thing I did not do this time was hang/tape the drywall and apply the ledge stone on the walls. Did the drywall in the last HT’s plus in the rest of the new basement, but by the time I got to the HT, I was getting a bit more impatient than my skills allowed. So I farmed the drywall out and had a buddy who is a mason knock out the ledge stone.

What will follow will detail my design iterations, construction pics of the space in question during the building of the home, pics of the HT build, equipment choices and final pics which I will then place into this first post. The unfinished space was the same dimensions as the garage above ( 33wide x 22.5deep ). Over all finished HT dimensions ended up being ~ 21'W x 27'L x 10'H. The foyer is ~ 6.5'W x 8'L x 12'H and the door is inset almost 3'.

My design concept strays from the current trend of hiding all the speakers (which gives a cleaner, stealthy appearance). Listening to music is just as high of a priority for me as watching movies. I love walking into the room and seeing the nearly 8' tall LS-9's staring down at you. I love the look of the multi-faceted, multi-driver surrounds. These two facts (high priority for stereo music reproduction and OCD on seeing the speakers) drove my design decision for placing the speakers in the room. Placing the speakers behind a false wall/AT screen would have compromised the music aspect. With their dark charcoal leather wrap, the LCR's disappear once the lights fade out. The central axis of the center speaker is just under 3 feet off the ground. This places it a few inches below ear level. Due to the height of the center speaker, the 2nd row also enjoys a completely unobstructed view of the LS-C and that's both upright or reclined. The custom LS-C stand is height AND angle adjustable.

*Total amplifier max-power is 28,000+ watts.
*Subwoofage provided by eight IB318's in an IB arrangement (4 up front & 2 each in each rear corner).
*The room is currently set up for an 11 channel system (HEIGHTS plus WIDES). I prewired 4 additional channels in the ceiling for DOLBY ATMOS in case I go that route.

Mains = GR Research LS-9
Center = GR Research LS-C
Side Surrounds (4x) = Niles Pro770FX
Rear Surrounds (2x) = Phase Tech PC-Surround
Front Height (2x) = Dayton B652
Front Wide (2x) = Niles PHD42
Dolby ATMOS Heights = wired, but not installed.
Subwoofer (8x) = FiCar IB318 in IB arrangement

2x = Original Buttkicker 1st platform
2x = Buttkicker LFE 2nd platform
8x = Buttkicker Mini-LFE each seat

Projector = Sony VPL-HW55ES
Screen = 11’ wide 16:9 DaLite Tensioned Cosmopolitan Electrol retractable Screen
Monitor = 60” Vizio LCD
Darbee Darblet DVP-5000

Amplifiers :
Subs = Sanyway FP14000 (240VAC)
L/R/C/Surr/Wides = Sherbourn PA 7-350 (240VAC)
Transducers = Sanyway FP10000Q (240VAC) 4x = Buttkicker BKS-1000
Side-surround (rear seats) = Behringer iNuke NU-1000DSP < for 2nd pair of side surrounds to add delay & avoid comb filtering.

Receiver = Denon AVR-4520Ci
HTPC = custom build fanless 1U case
Media Server = custom build with 21Tb
Bluray = Samsung
Console = Xbox One and Xbox 360
Satellite = Dishnetwork Hopper DVR
Turntable = Audio Technica

Mitsubishi MSZ/Y-GE12NA 12,000btu 20.5 SEER MiniSplit w/heat pump
Panasonic Whisperline FV-40NLF1 exhaust fan

Ultimate Home Entertainment Fusion Collection Tribute (8x)

Rolls DA-134
MiniDSP 2x4

I had a large open canvas to work with.

- Wanted IB arrangement subwoofers for their effortless and accurate bass reproduction and zero floor space.
- Wanted two rows of seating which would sit on my very own transducer-friendly designed platform (more on that later)
- Wanted plenty of room all around the seating area (wide isles). The reasoning for this is based on how our family uses the room. We have two dogs. When they get frisky, they’ll chase each other around the platforms in a sort-a tag-ur-it thing. Of course when the lights go down for a movie, they park it.
- Wanted a RETRACTABLE screen. I use my HT room to relax and listen to music too. I have a comprehensive collection which is easy to navigate with EMBY (formerly Media Browser). But for simply listening to music I don’t want to shut down all the lights and fire up the projector. This is why I prefer to have a TV mounted on the screen wall for those times when you don’t feel like going full-bore. I created a recess in the screen wall for a 60” LCD TV. When the screen comes down it goes right over the TV.
- Wanted my equipment visible. I have a bit of OCD and enjoy the occasional glance over to see the status of the equipment. I especially like the feature of the Denon’s where you can display the number of channels the AVR see’s coming IN and also the number of channels it is processing going OUT. Due to having a small room-within-a-room design (for the rack), I reciprocated that design feature on the opposite side for symmetry.
- Wanted access to the space/cavity behind the screen wall since there is an additional sump-pump back there. Since this cavity is the IB portion of the front array, I had to ensure any entry into this area was going to be SOLID and AIRTIGHT. (more on that design later).

When walking in to the new HT we wanted to create an environment such that you completely felt like you were somewhere else. I wanted an old, rustic, worn feel with a tiny dash of gothic and tiny bit of industrial thrown in the mix. I think I captured my vision and hope that the completed pics convey that.

EDIT-1 (3-7-2015).
{Add FINISHED pics}


BEFORE I lowered the front side surrounds:

AFTER LOWERING THE front side surrounds:


1) Media Server display
2) HTPC display/IR
3) HTPC fanless case front
4) Xbox One
5) Bluray Player
6) HDDVD/Bluray Player
7) Denon AVR-4520ci
8) drawer
9) Behringer iNuke NU1000DSP
10) Sherbourn PA 7-350
11) Fan & Temp control for amps below
12) Sanway FP-14000
13) Sanway FP-10000Q
14) Turntable on extendable tray

EDIT-1 (2-12-2015).
{Add pics of final entrance arrangement}

- - View from coming down stairs.




--Inside the front entrance:


--Door (3/6 x 8/0):


--Looking out from HT room towards steps:

In the Attachments below are the custom LS-9's, LS-C and LS-C Stand.
They are finished in Satin Black with charcoal Leatherette sides.
They were designed by Danny Richie of GR Research and custom built by Ruben Herrera.

rms8 11-07-2014 11:41 AM

Excavation and pour
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The following pics show the HT area being poured. The pic with the colored circles shows :

red = 3 car garage; a.k.a future HT
green = single bay garage; home for my mustang

The two area with water are the HT and foyer.

rms8 11-07-2014 11:51 AM

Conduit, SpanCrete and room
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The following show the 2" conduit I laid in place before the floor pour. These three runs coalesce in approximately the center of the room which will end up inside a platform.

Green = AC power run for Platforms.
Red = Signalling cable for Platforms (speaker wire, ethernet...)
Blue = lighting run from switch by door for step lights

The other pics show the Spancrete in place.

rms8 11-07-2014 12:01 PM

Basement plan
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This view gives an idea of the space available for the future HT.

thestoneman 11-07-2014 12:10 PM

Holy schnikees...:eek:

Bluepelican31 11-07-2014 12:18 PM

The first picture really puts the "cave" in man-cave!

rms8 11-07-2014 12:54 PM

Design stages
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I'm pretty sure I started designing this HT in my head long before we ever decided to build a new home. Below are several designs I went through. Nothing too major between any of them. Most of the design changes were due to changing sub locations.

I requested a separate 100Amp subpanel be located on the wall just behind the screen. This put the panel right inside the equipment room.

rms8 11-07-2014 02:53 PM

Hi Big !
Hey, everyone's entitled to their opinion right.

This is a design I've worked on for a few years at least to meet my criteria, one of which was no stage and no false wall. They don't appeal to me and I want my LS-9's and LS-C to be seen in all their glory and obnoxious size. Plus their finish is something you don't want to hide. Couple this with the fact that the room is 50/50 music/movies and one can see I didn't want to compromise my stereo listening with speakers behind a false wall and all it's reflections. The screen wall has a 60" flat screen on it which we occasionally may use when we don't want to deploy the 11' screen. It also serves as my monitor when browsing Media Browser or my music collection. Could do it on the screen too, but who wants to fire up the screen/proj to just listen to music? The room on the right is for the equipment and HT subpanel. I like my equipment in the room. The room on the left serves two purposes. 1) it has a custom hatch I created to allow access into the room behind the screen wall (which is also the front IB cavity) & 2) adds symmetry to the front.

I suppose I should have thrown out a disclaimer on the initial post that this is NOT your typical HT with a stage, AT screen wall, platforms which extend wall to wall.....Not that I'm trying to be different. This design conforms to how our family wanted to feel when we stepped into the room. We wanted the space to function a certain way. This HT is the result of those dreams.

I've been over every possibility a dozen times and the best part is that because there were some issues with water in the beginning, it delayed me quite a bit. One might think that is a bad thing (I certainly did at the time) but it actually turned out to be a good thing since I made some improvements along the way. If I had punched it out the way I thought was finally perfect I would have looked back and been disappointed. I'm sure things will come up over the course of time that may cause me to wish I would have changed this or that, but as it stands, it's exactly what our family wanted. ;)

rms8 11-07-2014 03:58 PM

Before I start (exhaust fan install)
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Before I could begin on the HT room, I had to finish my office, gym, large open room, bathroom and an area on the unfished side for bathing the dogs when its cold out (which is nearly half the time in IL). While I did this I installed the Panasonic Whisperline exhaust fan. This was installed at the opposite end of the basement from the HT. This unit basically draws air into the HT via pseudo dead vents and exhaust it to the other side of the basement.

rms8 11-08-2014 06:52 AM

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More on the AIR EXCHANGE system.

The Panasonic has an 8" in and out connection. The 8" input travels to the HT via 8" duct. In the wall just before the HT it splits into two 6" lines. One line snakes through the left side soffit and connects to a register on the front wall of the left room-in-a-room. The other 6" snakes through the right side soffit and connects to a torpedo box which draws air right next to the rack inside the room on the right. I spent a few months figuring out how to stack my equipment in the rack and use the right combo of vent plates and blanks to create the ideal airflow around the items which generate the most heat. I was actually surprised in the end just how much air is getting sucked into the front of the rack. You can literally feel a slight breeze when standing at the back of the rack.

For Fresh Air there are two large vents in the rear of the room which are connect to two vents on the opposite side of the basement. The arrangement of the fresh air vents and the Panasonic intakes causes fresh air to move from the rear of the room to the front and on both sides of the room simultaneously.

I have the Panasonic wired to a timer to periodically turn on at various point of the day to exchange the air in that room. I ALSO have the Panasonic wired to a 12VDC trigger activated solid state relay so that it will automatically come on when the Denon AVR is turned on.

rms8 11-08-2014 08:18 AM

IB Subwoofer design/construction
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For Bass duties I went with an infinite baffle (IB) arrangement. This created a few mechanical hurdles.

- I needed to create solid baffle walls which would not flex.
- I needed to somehow decouple the drivers from the walls they were mounted in which would assist in preventing wall flex.
- I needed access behind the screen wall. This would necessitate an opening which would need to be closable, solid and air tight during playback. I call this “The Hatch” (Lost reference intended).

I chose 8 FiCar IB318s for their price and excursion capabilities. Keep in mind I have been purchasing certain items for this project long before the project started, even before the house had broken ground. At the time the Ficars were an awesome deal. Stereo Integrity also has some super 18” drivers with suitable T/S parameters for super good prices now.

The location of each of the 8 18” drivers has been juggled around so much since my original idea that I probably can’t remember half of them. At one point I had all 8 in an array at the bottom of the screen wall. Then had a stack of 4 on each side of the screen wall. I’m not sure at what point in time I decided to separate the drivers between the front and rear of the room, but I’m glad I did.

I finally settled on 2 drivers in each corner of the room. The theory was to help smooth out the bass response before applying any post EQ whether it be Audyssey, Anti-mode, Behringer or any combo. The rear corner mounted drivers are angled, so their “enclosure” is a triangle 7’ wide on the baffle wall and 10’ high. This allows for 5.4x VAS which is slightly above the minimum 4x VAS needed for an IB setup. The front 18’s are on either side of the screen wall.

The entire screen wall and each rear cornered enclosure were constructed with 2x6’s and sheeted on both sides with 23/32” plywood which was glued, nailed then screwed. The front wall had a shallow shelf built in front of it to break up the monotony of the screen wall and add another design element to the room. This too was sheeted. All cavities were packed with fiberglass insulation. All seems were filled with expandable foam to ensure an airtight solution.

Each Baffle wall had a framed opening at the bottom for the insertion of the actual driver “box”. This allowed me to partially decouple the drivers from the wall. The driver “boxes” were basically a 44” wide by 22” high opened box made from 2x12. They would slide into place and have an 1/8” gap on each side and top so they never actually touch the baffle wall. I scored the bottom of each “box” and scored the mating area of the concrete floor. I then applied Loctite Premium PL8x adhesive. I then used 5” SPAX screws and drilled a few into the sides and along the top into the baffle wall. I then applied the actual driver baffle which is a laminated sheet of ¾” MDF and 23/32 plywood. This was screwed and glued to the box.

69glamboy 11-08-2014 11:38 AM

Interesting thread lol. It's like a good suspense movie without giving everything away . I'm hooked on the extreme close up pics. Can't wait to see the full room shots. Super cool medieval build!

rms8 11-08-2014 12:15 PM

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The platform arrangement I chose for our HT is a bit different than the norm. This was to facilitate some of the reasons mentioned earlier. I know that it is actually a bit of a waste with the space but different strokes for different folks. Obviously if I was working with a smaller space I would have had less freedom to do some of the things the way I did them. I’m sure the floor space could easily fit 3 rows of seating or more.

The platforms are one of the most important contributors to the whole cinematic-make-you-feel-like-you’re-there items in the room. WUT ??? Let me explain….

I have been using transducers since 1999. I purchased a pair of the original Buttkickers in 2000. These were the really big ones (see pic of old vs. new). They were, and STILL are the best shakers I have ever felt. Sadly Guitammer no longer makes them. I’m sure their size was a big factor in creating the current LFE shaker. Anyway, when I built my first platform in 2000 for the shakers, it didn’t work very well. I called Guitammer and spoke to Marvin Clamme (who is now their lead engineer). I emailed him pics of my platform and he told me it was WAY overbuild. WAY too solid. I would have to rebuild it a bit “looser”.

I took this advice and ran with it. Over the last few HT I have been able to tweak the platform to what I built for our new HT. This thing will hit, shake and rock till your teeth fall out, if you have the level set too high. No joke. You see, even my first row sits on a platform. The rear riser is permanent, but on TOP of that is another platform just like the one for the first row. The pseudo platforms are elevated off the floor. They are minimally framed. Their supports (rubber isolators) are what is KEY to their ability to transfer as much shake as these transducers can give. I added two layers of plywood with roofing felt in between to prevent possible squeaks.

Instead of placing the isolator feet in a typical spot (normally all 4 corners and 1 or 2 in the middle), I bring them much further in from the corners (see pics). This actually allows the platform to FLEX. One can really get a sense of how much by simply standing on the very edge of the platform and feel it slightly bend. I place one shaker on one corner and the other diagonal from it. I then wire them out of phase so as one piston goes up, the opposite is going down. This also allows the platform to twist even more.

As a side note, the rise (which is a solid permanent structure) has a small removable cover on top which allows access to the three 2” conduits inside and all associated wiring.

BIGmouthinDC 11-08-2014 12:35 PM

Kind of like being out for dinner with a woman who has a 10 date rule.

rms8 11-08-2014 01:14 PM


Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC (Post 28889042)
Kind of like being out for dinner with a woman who has a 10 date rule.

I know, right!

Maybe I can drag it out until my mains and center are completed, delivered and setup? Lots of pics to go through and commentary to add. Plus still dealing with another (2nd) gremlin with my Sanway. I will say though that Johnson is spot on in his diagnosis. It's just a hassle with the 14 hour time difference. Oh well, something to consider if you're going to make that sort of purchase.

rms8 11-08-2014 01:41 PM

AC and A/V wiring
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For the wiring of the HT, I think I may have ordered a bit too much….keep in mind that all the wire was also used during the construction of the home as well. The builder let me run network and A/V cabling myself. Saved some buxs and let me ensure it got done my OCD way. But in the end I still have WAY too much left.

My network closet is located in my office. This is also where the Dishnetwork Hopper, 16port Gb switch and Cable modem reside. The Asus AC router is located on the 1st floor to give better coverage through the 2 story house. So all networking cables for the HT run back to this location. First I ran all the RG6 and CAT6 I needed, then ran 12 more CAT6 and 6 RG6.

The HT has a dedicated 100amp panel. I have a separate 15A circuit for each of 3 Buttkicker BKA-1000-N amps labeled Outlet #1 , Outlet #2 & Outlet #3 in the box and on each electrical outlet for the corresponding amp. There are two 240V 20A circuits. One for the SanwayFP14000 and one for the Sherbourn PA 7-350. There are two more 15A circuits which each feed a separate 15 outlet strip on each side of the rack (right power strip, left power strip). All main theater lighting is on a single 15A breaker. The outlets in the room and ceiling are on another 15A and the outlets on the rear wall (where the minifridge is located) on 15A too. There is a 15A circuit for the platforms. I painted the entire room flat black. Also painted the panel flat black. It is not finished inside (no drywall) in case I need to add/move things in the future. The fella in the pic is me and I think the only pic of me since my wife snuck one in.

For all the speaker wires, I made an interconnect panel of sorts. This is hinged on one side so that it can be swung open for future additions. Any speakers which I am not currently using I did not put a connector for (Zone 2 speakers and Dolby Atmos overheads). For visual reference the connectors are located where the speakers physically are in the room. To facilitate any future wiring needs I ran 2” PVC in each soffit, front to rear with a few 90degree broad sweep T fittings in the middle.

I ran two 40ft Monoprice RedMere HDMIs from rack to projector and a single 30ft RedMere from rack to TV. I ran 4 CAT6 + 1RG6 to the projector and 4+1 to the TV. Never know.

I fabricated all the RCA cables to keep things tiddy.

rms8 11-08-2014 02:40 PM

Acoustic treatments and insulation
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For acoustical treatments I chose Knauf Sonic XP for its acoustic absorption characteristics. I looked at so many products out there but this appears to be one of the best bangs for your buck (just FYI). I ordered at least a dozen swatches/samples of various black fabrics from different vendors.

I lined the front wall with 1.5” of Sonic XP. I lined the side wall, rear angled walls and rear wall with 2” of Sonic XP. Then covered these with the fabric. For the angled walls with the subs at the bottom, the plan was to build speaker grills with the same fabric. This would give the illusion of one seamless black panel going from floor to ceiling. This is why the subwoofer baffles are inset, to facilitate the grill fitting flush with the panel. I liked the look of the raw drivers so much I have yet to build the grills.

The rear wall is stuffed with R38 due to it’s depth. The angled walls have R19. The two walls which the door sits between are stuffed with R38 as well. The ceiling, which is actually the floor to the garage above, has 1.5” panels which have an R7.5 value.

Here are some of the NRC's of poplular linears:

(An NRC of 0 indicates perfect reflection; an NRC of 1 indicates perfect absorption)

rms8 11-08-2014 02:41 PM

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Here are some pics for the post above......

rms8 11-09-2014 05:51 AM

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In all my previous HT's I would rely on placing a few supply’s and returns grafted in to the existing home trunks. This worked great…well sometimes….okay not really that often at all…..Since the thermostat was located elsewhere in the home it would obviously turn on/off according to the needs of the rooms above. It was even worse in the winter time if we had friends/relatives over helping to actually heat the room up. At some point the room would eventually get warm and stuffy. I would then open the door and turn on the ceiling fan.

This time around I wanted to do it right. I looked into adding a zoned system. WOW. It was pretty expensive due to needing to upgrade the existing components which we were going to have installed plus the environmental kit for the compressor which would enable it to run during the winter. I knew I was already going to be spending some higher $$$ on other features (stoned arch entry way, stacked stone walls…..) so I explored cheaper alternatives.

The Solution was simple – a MINISPLIT !

Total cost for the whole system was less than $1200-1400. I installed it so that saved a ton. I only needed a licensed HVAC person to fabricate the end of the line-set (was ~ 2’ too short) and then evacuate/charge the lines. That was less than $300. I know some people said the fan noise might be an issue. Let me give a resounding WRONG to that theory. At least for the Mitsubishi model I installed! When it’s in the “Whisper” mode, the fan is literally inaudible. Seriously! I was actually impressed with how silent it actually was. I figured there would be a tiny whir…..negatron!

The icing on the cake is that 1) it’s a heat pump too so it can warm the room as well and 2) it’s a 20.5 SEER. So it’s very efficient.

The ONLY “hurdle” with the Minisplit was that the air-handler is a big white box on the wall. I disassembled it and sprayed it flat black and now it blends in and either folks don’t notice it or assume it’s a speaker. I mounted the compressor up high in the basement. I spoke with Mitsubishi and explained the units purpose and they confirmed that this would fine. So up it went. It is actually very quiet too so in hind sight I could have placed the compressor anywhere and saved a few bucks on the line-set length.

In the pics below you can see the supply and returns (red arrows) and the Minisplit (blue arrow). Remember that the returns are connected to the large Panasonic Whisperline exhaust fan located elsewhere in the basement and the supplies are simply connected to other rooms in the basement to draw in fresh air. The MinSplit does *NOT* exchange the air in the HT, it simply conditions the existing air in the room and circulates it about.

The location of the condenser in the basement is below in red:

69glamboy 11-09-2014 06:03 AM

Build is coming along nicely. You've mentioned that your front speakers are to be exposed, curious as to where your center channel will be at the screen wall? On a stand or fixed below the screen? Thanks.

rms8 11-09-2014 06:42 AM

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Originally Posted by 69glamboy (Post 28900970)
Build is coming along nicely. You've mentioned that your front speakers are to be exposed, curious as to where your center channel will be at the screen wall? On a stand or fixed below the screen? Thanks.


The center will be on a custom matching stand which I spec'ed as being adjustable all the way up to 35" high. The center is nearly 4' wide.

The speakers are finished in a charcoal leatherette and the caps will be satin black.

rms8 11-09-2014 06:52 AM

Main Door distressing. Very fun!
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The entry door needed to be something massive, and look really heavy. It needed to look old, worn, beat-up.

I originally had worked out a deal with a contractor friend who dealt with an Amish group way down in southern IL. I told him I wanted the door to be really thick, 3-4” ! I wanted to take advantage of the high ceilings so we were going to go with 9’ tall and 4’ wide !!!!!!! Since it was being built by Amish, it wouldn’t be anywhere near as expensive as farming that out to a local door shop. I was getting quotes well north of $4000 for a door that met these requirements from local door companies and that wasn’t even pre-hung or came with the massive hinges one would need.

So we made a deal. I already knew that it would take some time dealing with the Amish since they lived 300-400 miles south and had no phones, oh and they work slowly. Not a problem since I wouldn’t need the door for 7-8 months. 8 months later and the door had not been assembled yet. They “had the parts” but had not put it together yet. WUT ? I told my buddy to forget it and I’ll investigate another option. So I didn’t get a custom door. Well, not in the traditional sense.

What I ended up getting was a prehung exterior door with an eyebrow (subtle arch) and a slightly gothic look. I took many existing tools I had and created a few new ones and start out distressing the heck out of the door. For practice I worked on the back side of the two interior doors I had for the HT. For many of the tiny “cracks” in the door, I simply painted those on. You can’t even tell. It really came out better than I would have hoped for and cost way less than having someone else do it. I think my favorite tool was the stripper wheel (blue wheel with the metal fingers). This created several different distressed looks depending on how I used it. Although not quite as massive as I had originally planned, the door is still quite large. It’s the same 8’ high as the rest of our interior doors in the home and 2” think. Plus It has a lot of hardware on it. Since it’s solid, it is pretty darn heavy!

The door handle fit the look. They have a very pitted finish. This door I did NOT hang by myself. No way. Too heavy.

rms8 11-09-2014 09:29 AM

** OLDWORLD Stone Archway **
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The following posts will document one of the major features of the HT.

The Stone Archway leading to the foyer of the HT. This was completed by Nathan Griffin, owner and pioneer of the art of what is referred to as “Vertical Artistry” . I don’t know if he actually coined the phrase or not, but he teaches students all over the world and sets up at the various trade shows all the time. He’s a super great person.

His company is http://www.verticalartisans.com

Here is some of his work :

Amazing Basement finish ($100K just for the stone work)

Rock carving gallery

The process involves framing the basic shape and applying a proprietary mixture he created which is basically cement but with the consistency of butter. Very neat stuff and such an amazing skill. These stones look and feel one-hundy % real! People will ask how we got some of them in since the larger ones would weigh 300+ pounds…if they were actually real rocks.

Nathan said when we frame the archway to keep the sides wide/deep. He said this allows him to give the illusions of more size/weight/depth.

rms8 11-09-2014 09:31 AM

More of the ARCHWAY
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Here are some more progress pics of the archway....

rms8 11-09-2014 09:34 AM

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A few more of the progress and then a few of the finished weathered arch.

I can't say enough how real this looks in person.

rms8 11-09-2014 10:02 AM

Reclaimed BARNWOOD Everywhere
14 Attachment(s)
One of my original ideas for this HT was the use of reclaimed barnwood. I scoured the net for two years trying to find a great source with equally great prices. I have dozens of bookmarks. I then started finding places local to me. One in particular (Modern Urban Wood) really got my attention and was less than 20 minutes away so I went to check it out. I was blown away by the selection. Just amazed. They do it all. They seek out structures, tear them down, kiln them and de-nail. They build custom furniture out of it and recently had a contract with a major beverage company to face the vending machines of the Drake Hotel with their reclaimed barnwood.

The process involves you selecting every single piece. It seemed overwhelming at first, but once you start grabbing wood (he he) it actually goes pretty quickly. I wanted a wide array of color vs. sticking with greys or browns or a combo of the two. They have free delivery too (locally of course). Price was $5/sqft. I needed right around a 1000sqft. Since I had such a large order they worked with me on the price….Considerably! The best part was he would let me walk in and just grab more pieces as I needed them when I ran short, or if I wanted to exchange some pieces towards the end. If was a simple process and a really fun time.

I faced the ceiling and the knee wall in the HT room. I also covered the whole foyer in reclaimed BW. I made the outlet and switch plate spacers out of it as well.

I started by laying out a grid on the driveway and just started piecing it together so I knew what piece went where. Most all boards had to be ripped to the nearest inch. So I ended up with a huge assortment of boards ranging in width from just 1” all the way up to 15”. Lengths were all over too but dictated by the framing behind them.

The pics of the wood on the garage floor were about 60% of the total used. I had to get more as time progressed.

rms8 11-09-2014 10:13 AM

Wet bar
8 Attachment(s)
The theater has a small wet bar recessed along the back wall. I wanted the base cabinet to stay with the rustic theme. After looking all over the net and locally I decided to get a super cheap base cabinet and REFACE it with the reclaimed wood. DONE!

The basic cabinet was simply faced and the doors are just 12” wide barnwood which was 1” think. Got some old time looking HW from the Depot and bingo. Found a remnant piece of quartz that appeared to fit with the look.

At some point I'll build some shelves out of reclaimed and install them.

69glamboy 11-09-2014 03:34 PM

Mindblowing stone work. Don't understand why there isn't anyone else commenting on this build. They must have fallen on their *sses speechless like i am. Keep posting pics. This is the AVS room I've been waiting to see. Simply stunning.

rms8 11-09-2014 04:18 PM


Originally Posted by 69glamboy (Post 28912034)
Mindblowing stone work. Don't understand why there isn't anyone else commenting on this build. They must have fallen on their *sses speechless like i am. Keep posting pics. This is the AVS room I've been waiting to see. Simply stunning.

Yeah, the stonework is just mind blowing. It has so much depth and weight to it.

rms8 11-09-2014 04:26 PM

Stacked stone walls
7 Attachment(s)
These pics show the stacked ledge stone going up. I did NOT do this work myself. I looked at probably 15-20 different stone veneer vendors. I knew I wanted the drystack look, but wanted something dark. I ended up going with Eldorado Stone. It is the Ledge Stone line and the color is called Black River. My wife hated the sample board. I kept telling her to trust me….It came out perfect! It’s nowhere near as dark as she was expecting.

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