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post #1 of 175 Old 11-12-2014, 06:46 PM - Thread Starter
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The Circle N Theater Build

Well, we moved into our new house and its time to finish the basement and build out the theater. During the building process for the rest of the house we tried to make as usable a space as we could for the rest of the basement so the theater came out a bit skinnier than I had hoped, but should still be usable. My measurements before drywall are 13'6" wide by 21'8" deep with a 2' wider width in the back half of the theater. The front half is a sunken cement floor. My plan is to have 2 rows of 3 seats, no idea what kind and I am open to using love seat flip up arm style if it fits better. I would also like to put a stand up bar behind the last row if it will fit but it may be too tight already. This will be a 7.3.4 atmos setup so all the surrounds will be at ear level with 4 speakers in the ceiling.

The equipment List (Final)

Front- GoldenEar Triton 2
Center-GoldenEar Supercenter XL
Side- Goldenear Invisa MPX wide dispersion in walls
Rear- Golden Ear Invisa MPX wide dispersion in walls
Atmos ceiling- (4) Definitive DI 8r
Subs (other than Tritons) Maelstrom X 18" and an SI HST18 both in sealed 4cuft boxes
Receiver- Denon x6200w
Emotiva XPA 3 for the Front
Yung SD500 for 6 Aura Pro bass shakers
Inuke 6000DSP for Maelstrom X and HST18
Screen 136" x62" 2.2:1 Seymour AT XD
Projector - Panasonic AE8000U with Darby Darblet
PS4
HTPC + Gaming Rig
Seats: Paliser Playback curved

Final Pictures: I need a wider angle lens!!









This will NOT be a super high dollar build, but one where I will do 100% of the work and try to control my budget as best I can due to the WAF. I am going to try and do most things "the right way", but budget may come into play.

My plan is to do DD/GG on all walls which are already staggered stud. I will use Clips and DD/GG on the ceiling and be closing in my supply vent into a DD/GG muffler and adding a Deadvent return somewhere at the back. The doors are double because we host superbowl parties and stuff into the rec room. I will use two solid doors with MDF GG panels and good seals. I don't need 100% soundproofing, just need to not disturb my wife or kids watching tv one floor above . I am getting all the stuff for the soundproofing from Ted at the sound proofing company.

(UPDATED) changed closet to face out into rec room) The equipment closet is on the left side and I am open to how to utilize this space best. Its kind of weird because the door they framed is on the theater side where the stairs go and the floor in the closet is on the upper level. My initial thought was to have a tall rack with smoked glass either face the theater stairs (starting right above them) or face out into the Rec room and just wall off the theater side. I guess it could also face the back of the theater, but it might be hard with the speaker in that little wall next to the closet.

I am ok giving up some of the walk way on the right side of the theater to make more room on the main left side. That pillar by the stairs on the right side cuts down my walkway already but kind of needs to be there to house the MPX in wall speaker. I'm trying to have all lights (sconces) and any inwall speakers mounted in a surface pillar or in a soffit to minimize sound transfer. There is a soffit that runs around the back of the room from the big beam back. I will have a star ceiling in this space. (see the dotted line section). I was thinking of making the pillars only about 3-4" deep since I'm just using inwall speakers in them. On my drawing the black squares on the pillars would be screen cloth to hide the speakers. The red on the walls will be some kind of fabric over acoustic treatment.

Stage: looking for ideas here. Due to the already short length of the room I don't want to have a false wall setup (UPDATED: Doing a false wall now) . I will instead mount the screen all the way to the wall and have the speakers sit out in front of it somewhat. Not ideal, but I don't want to drop 3 ft off the room if possible. The bass traps are making my placement of the tritons a little different than I had envisioned. My listening position will be the middle chair in the BACK row. The front row is for the kids.

Some questions for you all:

1. Stage, what do you think it should look like to fit the tritons?
2. Projector- Where should I mount it. It would be at 18' if I mount it below the back soffit. If I move forward its in the middle of the star ceiling.
3. Equipment closet- which way to face the rack, open to theater side or rec room etc??
4. Any other thoughts, suggestions, ideas

I have wired most of the room already so now just making adjustments and decisions before moving on to insulation.

Here are my VERY high tech mock ups using this revolutionary program called Microsoft paint. I really have no skills so these are not really to scale or anything like That. The second picture is one version of what I thought the walls could look like. I also took a couple of shots of the room so far.


The grey designs would be fabric covered pieces that are the shape of the grey shape at the top of the picture if you looked at them sideways. They are just to make the wall interesting.


From the door


The equipment closet from inside the theater. Note the floor is raised in the closet so a door will not work on this side due to stairs.


Front. Those outlets will most likely move inward and up due to stage and bass traps.


Thanks for your help and ideas!
-James

Last edited by nitro28; 03-04-2016 at 07:14 AM.
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post #2 of 175 Old 11-12-2014, 08:18 PM
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Just a quick item, if you were planning on using clips and channel on the bottom of the soffit around the beam I have a strategy that can save 1 1/4 inch of head room.

Another thought, I'd give thought to flipping the room 180 degrees then the beam is only noticable from the cheap seats and the riser can run from wall to wall.

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post #3 of 175 Old 11-13-2014, 05:55 AM
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The French doors at the entry are going to undermine your sound proofing.
And they need to swing inwards, to meet building code.


Your front row seated ears appear to be dead center of the length.


The LR mains are shoved into the front corners.


The underside of that beam, could be acoustically treated, to deal with the first
reflection off the ceiling, to the front row.






I do have to wonder with the beam , and storage at the back, if you couldn't slide the
theater back, by doing some concrete work. That front soffit would become visually
shallower, and you could do a DIY acoustically transparent screen, and improve your
front speaker layout. Now you some wiggle room for subwoofer location, and can get bigger bass traps up front.
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post #4 of 175 Old 11-13-2014, 07:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Just a quick item, if you were planning on using clips and channel on the bottom of the soffit around the beam I have a strategy that can save 1 1/4 inch of head room.

Another thought, I'd give thought to flipping the room 180 degrees then the beam is only noticable from the cheap seats and the riser can run from wall to wall.
I am going to use clips on the beam, so I would love to hear how to save a some room. In hindsight I should have had them poor the sunken floor the other way, so now I'm pretty much stuck with it this way.
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post #5 of 175 Old 11-13-2014, 07:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
The French doors at the entry are going to undermine your sound proofing.
And they need to swing inwards, to meet building code.


Your front row seated ears appear to be dead center of the length.


The LR mains are shoved into the front corners.


The underside of that beam, could be acoustically treated, to deal with the first
reflection off the ceiling, to the front row.


I do have to wonder with the beam , and storage at the back, if you couldn't slide the
theater back, by doing some concrete work. That front soffit would become visually
shallower, and you could do a DIY acoustically transparent screen, and improve your
front speaker layout. Now you some wiggle room for subwoofer location, and can get bigger bass traps up front.
Thanks.

The double doors is something I go back and forth on. A single door is better for sound and making room, but the double doors are way better when we entertain. I don't need super isolated sound proofing, just a significant attenuation. But I may still go with one door.....I go back and forth about every day. I like your layout, but the storage room unfortunately is full of the plumbing, duct work and wiring for the house so I'm stuck with that back wall. If I have the tritons about 2 ft from the side wall, will it significantly deteriorate their sound or will it just not be ideal?

Since I am building a soffit from the beam back for the star ceiling, wouldn't it just make sense to lower the ceiling in the front of the room to the height of the beam? Since the floor is sunken up there I already have 10ft of height so I would have just under 9' if I evened the ceiling up with the beam.

I think I like the idea of the equipment facing out into the rec room because I can DD/GG the back of the closet and then vent the equipment fully from the rec side, thus not messing up my sound proofing as much.

-James
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post #6 of 175 Old 11-13-2014, 08:11 AM
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That's pretty much the standard conversation versus double doors. I hear you, but are double doors on
a recessed side wall, with no screen sightlines, really all that desirable?


Sound proofing is as DE's aquarium analogy, one leak and you just undermined a lot of work, time, and money.
You really need to start thinking in absolute terms here. You also don't want noise getting into the home theater, as you
want a low noise floor, around 22-23 db. That way you preserve dynamic range and limit how loud the room gets.

Are you REALLY stuck with that length? Or could the those storage room issues be dealt with, in an affordable manner?
The ductwork might not be a large issue since you have height, and soffits can disguise them. And you can have soffits in the
back of a room.


I have had my av rack up front (bad idea), in the rear side wall (much better) and now right outside the room (even better).
No light pollution, noise pollution, and no additional heat load on the room.
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post #7 of 175 Old 11-13-2014, 08:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
That's pretty much the standard conversation versus double doors. I hear you, but are double doors on
a recessed side wall, with no screen sightlines, really all that desirable?


Sound proofing is as DE's aquarium analogy, one leak and you just undermined a lot of work, time, and money.
You really need to start thinking in absolute terms here. You also don't want noise getting into the home theater, as you
want a low noise floor, around 22-23 db. That way you preserve dynamic range and limit how loud the room gets.

Are you REALLY stuck with that length? Or could the those storage room issues be dealt with, in an affordable manner?
The ductwork might not be a large issue since you have height, and soffits can disguise them. And you can have soffits in the
back of a room.


I have had my av rack up front (bad idea), in the rear side wall (much better) and now right outside the room (even better).
No light pollution, noise pollution, and no additional heat load on the room.
Yah, its multiple things with that storage room. The biggest thing is the sump pit sitting a foot behind the wall (my builder originally tried to put the pit in the theater!!) , then the electric panel a couple of feet past that. Also if the wall moved back the door to the storage room would be eliminated which would force me to put a door in the back of the theater. I'm really thinking about that single door now.
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post #8 of 175 Old 11-13-2014, 09:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok. I decided to do a single door for both soundproofing and to make a little more wall room in the theater. It also makes for a better place to put my light switches on the side of the closet. I'll face the AV rack out into the rec room. Here is the new mock up.

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post #9 of 175 Old 11-14-2014, 11:38 AM
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Remember, if you're not going all the way with soundproofing, there's no need to really skip the double doors. But if you do plan to go Alllll the way, then cutting it down to a single door is a great choice!
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post #10 of 175 Old 12-22-2014, 09:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Making some progress on the room the last few weeks. Got the door framed down to a single door, got the insulation almost complete, moved the HVAC run out of the ceiling so I can re-run it into the soffits that will be built. I started to put up the hat channel on the ceiling. The only thing I'm not sure about is whether I actually need to add clips on every joist where the soffits will attach?? RIght now I followed the pattern on my SIM, but I know the soffit will add some weight because it will have a layer of OSB and a layer of drywall. Right now there are clips on every other joist where the soffit would attach. The soffit will be about 10" tall and about 3 ft wide around the back.

I pulled the board off of the beam to allow me to build a soffit attached to the hat channel around the beam and have the drywall just clear the bottom of the beam by a half inch. Thanks BigmouthinDC for that suggestion.

I am also still going back on forth or the door arrangement. I know at minimum I'll do a solid core door with at least one extra layer of MDF and some absorbing material on the inside with an automatic door closer. The question is do I have enough width on the staggered wall to fit two doors with an airlock and two door closers in the airlock. It would be pretty tight I have a feeling to try this.




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post #11 of 175 Old 01-01-2015, 11:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Made some good progress this week. Completed the first layer of drywall so now it actually looks like a room! Made a typical rookie drywalling mistake by cutting an "L" shaped ceiling piece on the wrong side of the drywall board. Luckily this is the first layer so I put it up anyway.

My kids had fun drawing on the 1st layer of drywall. Shame to cover it all up. Up next will be the GG and second layer of drywall, then I'll tackle the soffits arond the Ibeam and the back of the room.

What is the consensus on any mudding/taping or sealing of the first layer of drywall seams. I was thinking of at least taping the corners because they will be the only seams that I am not able to cover by the 2nd layer's stagger. What do you all recommend??

Rear


Kids artwork


Front
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post #12 of 175 Old 01-02-2015, 04:43 AM
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Looking great! GBR!!!

Not a tOSU fan, but it was great seeing bama go down. The BG10 can't hang with the SEC? Yeah right! Tell that to bama and auburn.

No advice here, but it's always fun seeing Nebraska builds I can't believe how many Nebraska people are on this board.
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post #13 of 175 Old 01-02-2015, 06:37 AM
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How tall is that riser?

This picture makes me wonder if some custom work on a non reclining front row couldn't
have a notch out of the seat itself, to push the seating back?


And since the riser isn't tall, maybe a low island riser can be added to the second row, if
sightlines require it.
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post #14 of 175 Old 01-02-2015, 07:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
How tall is that riser?

This picture makes me wonder if some custom work on a non reclining front row couldn't
have a notch out of the seat itself, to push the seating back?


And since the riser isn't tall, maybe a low island riser can be added to the second row, if
sightlines require it.
The riser is exactly one foot. It seemed to come out ok in my original line of sight calculations, but I am not opposed to building a low riser either as it would give me a chance to use one of my buttkickers that I have from my old theater.
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post #15 of 175 Old 01-02-2015, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitro28 View Post
What is the consensus on any mudding/taping or sealing of the first layer of drywall seams. I was thinking of at least taping the corners because they will be the only seams that I am not able to cover by the 2nd layer's stagger. What do you all recommend??
I didn't mud and tape any of the seams. I ran the first layer horizontally and the second layer vertically, and caulked all the edges and corners.
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post #16 of 175 Old 01-02-2015, 12:36 PM - Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=dmbandtimmy;30414466]Looking great! GBR!!!

Not a tOSU fan, but it was great seeing bama go down. The BG10 can't hang with the SEC? Yeah right! Tell that to bama and auburn.

No advice here, but it's always fun seeing Nebraska builds I can't believe how many Nebraska people are on this board.[/QUOTE

There are a lot of Nebraska people on here. Guess I know where to go for local advice!
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post #17 of 175 Old 01-06-2015, 09:46 AM - Thread Starter
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I am starting to plan my acoustical treatments and had a question about super chunk bass traps. My theater is 14x22 and I was planning on putting floor to ceiling corner traps in the front at the very least. How big a difference does it make between using a 34" wide OC703 triangle vs cutting those in half and using a 24" wide triangle? If I did 24" triangles I could probably afford to do all for corners of the room. What do you think. Two in the front that are 34" or 4 that are 24"?

I have two 18" subs. One in the front and one in the rear. Thanks.

Also is 703 the right material for these or should I look at knauf or Roxul products?

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post #18 of 175 Old 02-05-2015, 11:37 AM - Thread Starter
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I am getting the drywall finished up and starting to plan the woodwork and acoustic treatment. My plan was to have paneling on the first 36"-40" of the wall with molding similar to the Cinemar theater. I would then do fabric above the paneling all the way to the soffit. There will also be pillars full of insulation which will be about 4" deep. Basically, just like the Cinemar theater in design. I will have 4 bass traps covering the four corners floor to ceiling which will be 24" wide triangles. What should I use to treat the side walls above the paneling? And what about the back wall. There will be about 3-4 feet between my seats and the back wall. I have read a lot and it looks like many people tread the lower portion of the wall only, which is opposite of what I am doing due to the look I am going for. Will I be ok doing it the way Cinemar did? Thanks for the help.
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post #19 of 175 Old 02-06-2015, 07:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Any thoughts on my last post?
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post #20 of 175 Old 02-06-2015, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
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Any thoughts on my last post?
IMHO the 36"-40" is a little tall for the wainscot, hard reflections at ear height..
See how something in the 32" max height would work for you.

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post #21 of 175 Old 02-06-2015, 08:55 AM - Thread Starter
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I guess I could also make absorbing panels that fit in the middle of the framed design that is in the wainscot itself. It wouldn't be complete coverage down low but would offer some absorption.

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post #22 of 175 Old 02-06-2015, 11:47 AM
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I'm not sure if you have or have not purchased the equipment yet but with a 120" screen I would VERY STRONGLY advise going acoustically transparent and getting a center speaker that is the same as the left and rights. Otherwise you are going to end up having to put the center speaker up over the screen and it is going to be close to the ceiling and it is going to have bass boost in the sub 200Hz range. The bass boost can be EQ'd but depending on position you will also have some pretty hot reflections from the ceiling to control.


IMO there is no reason not to go AT. See here for some good reading: http://www.seymourav.com/centerbestpractice.asp

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As for the wainscot I prefer to keep at 30" max, and preferably 26" so you have at least 12" below seated ear height for acoustic treatment.

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post #24 of 175 Old 02-06-2015, 12:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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As for the wainscot I prefer to keep at 30" max, and preferably 26" so you have at least 12" below seated ear height for acoustic treatment.
I do have the speakers and would like to do a transparent wall but my room layout is not great to accomplish this neither are my speakers since I listen to 50% music and 50% theater I have large towers etc.

The room is only 22' front to back and the riser is at 11'8 from the front wall. If I built a false wall that would put the screen at about 10ft from the front row which seems pretty close for a 120" screen. My sitting position is in the rear row, but I don't want the front row to not have a good experience.

My speakers are:
L/R GoldenEar Triton 2
Center GoldenEar SuperCenter XL
Sides and Surrounds GoldenEar Invisa MPX
Atmos- Definitive DI 8R (x4)

My plan was to just mount the center right under the 120"screen. Not optimum but may be my only choice. The center is 11" deep so maybe I could just do a 1 foot false wall to get it behind the screen, but that still might not work that well with my towers. Hard to bride the gap between dedicated theater and music listening.

James

My theater build 2015 (Circle N theater)
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-ded...ter-build.html
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post #25 of 175 Old 02-06-2015, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitro28 View Post
I do have the speakers and would like to do a transparent wall but my room layout is not great to accomplish this neither are my speakers since I listen to 50% music and 50% theater I have large towers etc.

The room is only 22' front to back and the riser is at 11'8 from the front wall. If I built a false wall that would put the screen at about 10ft from the front row which seems pretty close for a 120" screen. My sitting position is in the rear row, but I don't want the front row to not have a good experience.

My speakers are:
L/R GoldenEar Triton 2
Center GoldenEar SuperCenter XL
Sides and Surrounds GoldenEar Invisa MPX
Atmos- Definitive DI 8R (x4)

My plan was to just mount the center right under the 120"screen. Not optimum but may be my only choice. The center is 11" deep so maybe I could just do a 1 foot false wall to get it behind the screen, but that still might not work that well with my towers. Hard to bride the gap between dedicated theater and music listening.

I don't mean to throw a spanner in the works but...
- yes it is always hard to bridge the gap between HT and music. You have to prioritize, not just from a layout but also an acoustics perspective
- chances are the second row will not be the optimal place to listen to music. Too much "stuff" (big chairs) between seats and speakers. I'd always do a front row prime spot for music listening personally.
- I'd consider dropping the screen size down so you can get the speakers further from the side walls if music is a priority. Stereo speakers like yours (freestanding towers) sound best out in the room away from walls unless you very, very heavily treat the front wall.
- unless you put the screen really high on the front wall then if you put the center below the screen very likely the seat backs of the front row will block the sound for the second row. If you can't see the tweeter of the center speaker from the second row then that is bad.


Some useful stuff on viewing angles here: http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/2013314viewing-angles/

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post #26 of 175 Old 02-06-2015, 12:57 PM
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For reference this visual is great, so your screen is 120" wide? (diagnol ..) still 10 ft wide, sit 10 ft away, perfect!
Immersive feeling is great yet easily within this guide, not overpowering.


fwiw I'm 130" wide 2.37:1 screen, 10 feet wide, and sit 10ft 6" in first row from screen.


My center is also under the screen and points up


https://www.avsforum.com/t/1094642/ce...#post_15267879 Quote: Originally Posted by mtbdudex

Picts of center shelf completed.

Installed, the match to the Paradigm "Rosenut" color is acceptable.
Per Dennis, the front edge of the speakers will have about 3/4" overhang to the shelf to minimize boundary edge effects.
(I read the Loudspeaker cookbook handbook a few months back where extensive studies of boundary edge effects is presented - so that was in my memory, and Dennis confirmed that)

I also made the shelf about 3/4" shorter on each side for same reason.
I left about 1 1/2" for anit-slip device on the back to keep the speaker from slipping backwards.

The shelf ends and there is about 8" gap to the front wall for whatever "breathing" / acoustics I can give those rear ports.
I made a sandwich top with leftover 3/4 OSB and 3/4 plywood via glue, and attached Oak trim with lots of clamps Friday night.

Put dark laminate on top Saturday, and stained/installed Sunday.
.

Installed:
That getto angle device will be replaced with a custom "wedgie", stained appropriate color, I also wish my PartsExpress 14/4 speaker casing was black not white - will need a speaker sock for them. The 24" shelf bracket is actually white and from another project prior painted black, I just re-painted the portion that will show from above again since it had a few scratches/chips on it from prior abuse.


"Wedgies" to hold up the speaker @ 12.5 degrees, which shoots it just over the 1st row heads.
.

Last edited by mtbdudex; 02-06-2015 at 01:01 PM.
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post #27 of 175 Old 02-06-2015, 03:44 PM
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[QUOTE=Nyal Mellor;31538321]I don't mean to throw a spanner in the works but...
- yes it is always hard to bridge the gap between HT and music. You have to prioritize, not just from a layout but also an acoustics perspective

Hi Nyal,
I too am planning mixed use (50% music / 50% movies) in my Theater. Do you have any links / planning/technical resources you can point to? Is anyone aware of a mixed use thread on AVS?
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post #28 of 175 Old 02-06-2015, 04:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post
For reference this visual is great, so your screen is 120" wide? (diagnol ..) still 10 ft wide, sit 10 ft away, perfect!
Immersive feeling is great yet easily within this guide, not overpowering.


fwiw I'm 130" wide 2.37:1 screen, 10 feet wide, and sit 10ft 6" in first row from screen.


My center is also under the screen and points up


https://www.avsforum.com/t/1094642/ce...#post_15267879 Quote: Originally Posted by mtbdudex

Picts of center shelf completed.

Installed, the match to the Paradigm "Rosenut" color is acceptable.
Per Dennis, the front edge of the speakers will have about 3/4" overhang to the shelf to minimize boundary edge effects.
(I read the Loudspeaker cookbook handbook a few months back where extensive studies of boundary edge effects is presented - so that was in my memory, and Dennis confirmed that)

I also made the shelf about 3/4" shorter on each side for same reason.
I left about 1 1/2" for anit-slip device on the back to keep the speaker from slipping backwards.

The shelf ends and there is about 8" gap to the front wall for whatever "breathing" / acoustics I can give those rear ports.
I made a sandwich top with leftover 3/4 OSB and 3/4 plywood via glue, and attached Oak trim with lots of clamps Friday night.

Put dark laminate on top Saturday, and stained/installed Sunday.
.

Installed:
That getto angle device will be replaced with a custom "wedgie", stained appropriate color, I also wish my PartsExpress 14/4 speaker casing was black not white - will need a speaker sock for them. The 24" shelf bracket is actually white and from another project prior painted black, I just re-painted the portion that will show from above again since it had a few scratches/chips on it from prior abuse.


"Wedgies" to hold up the speaker @ 12.5 degrees, which shoots it just over the 1st row heads.
.
Thanks This helps quite a bit. Maybe what I will do is go ahead and shoot my projector on the wall and then sit 10ft from it to see what it looks like. If it looks good then I can bring a false wall out a foot to get my center tweeter at the same height as the towers. I am also not opposed to moving my towers inward when I listen to music and back out for movies given the limitations of this room.

James

My theater build 2015 (Circle N theater)
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-ded...ter-build.html
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post #29 of 175 Old 02-07-2015, 01:55 AM
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^^^thats a right of passage for every projector owner!
Plus, it's a fun and exciting event.
Heck, when I did mine nothing was wired, pj hanging from the mtg pole, I used laptop as source material , and a dewalt radio for sound. We ended up watching 3 movies!!
Enjoy it.


Via Mikes brain/thumb interface, LLAP
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post #30 of 175 Old 02-08-2015, 02:01 PM
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[quote=Bongani;31545441]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nyal Mellor View Post
I don't mean to throw a spanner in the works but...
- yes it is always hard to bridge the gap between HT and music. You have to prioritize, not just from a layout but also an acoustics perspective

Hi Nyal,
I too am planning mixed use (50% music / 50% movies) in my Theater. Do you have any links / planning/technical resources you can point to? Is anyone aware of a mixed use thread on AVS?
No, but that's a very good topic for one of my future blog articles!

Want to learn about home theater design and acoustics? Read our blog.
Company: Acoustic Frontiers - design and creation of high performance home theaters for discerning audio/video enthusiasts.
Certifications: HAA Level I & II, THX Video Level I & II, CEDIA EST I & II.
AVS Projects: Too many to show in my signature - see here for the master list.
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