The Wonderboy Theater -- small, but maximized space - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 98 Old 09-23-2016, 09:38 PM
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I'm no expert, but my two cents: I assume because you've installed the baseboards already, you're planning on carpeting? I think carpeting is much more forgiving of gaps under baseboards than hard floor surfaces, because the carpet will be tucked underneath. Not sure you'll notice the uneven baseboards as much, since the carpet will sort of "fill up" that space.

Once you get the carpet in, you could always install shoe molding if there's still a noticeable gap you don't like. It's not very usual to see shoe molding with carpeted floors (usually hard floors only), but people do it and it might not look too bad.

Edit: You could also try finding some white backer rod that you can shove in the gaps. You don't need it everywhere, just where the large gaps... then you could try filling in any lines between the baseboard and backer rod with caulk or putty or something and paint it all up. Once you get the carpet installed and shoved under the baseboard, it will hide most of the backer rod, but if there are any really significant gaps, the backer rod should fill in that gap.

Last edited by tekmonkey; 09-23-2016 at 09:42 PM.
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post #62 of 98 Old 10-04-2016, 08:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tekmonkey View Post
I'm no expert, but my two cents: I assume because you've installed the baseboards already, you're planning on carpeting? I think carpeting is much more forgiving of gaps under baseboards than hard floor surfaces, because the carpet will be tucked underneath. Not sure you'll notice the uneven baseboards as much, since the carpet will sort of "fill up" that space.

Once you get the carpet in, you could always install shoe molding if there's still a noticeable gap you don't like. It's not very usual to see shoe molding with carpeted floors (usually hard floors only), but people do it and it might not look too bad.

Edit: You could also try finding some white backer rod that you can shove in the gaps. You don't need it everywhere, just where the large gaps... then you could try filling in any lines between the baseboard and backer rod with caulk or putty or something and paint it all up. Once you get the carpet installed and shoved under the baseboard, it will hide most of the backer rod, but if there are any really significant gaps, the backer rod should fill in that gap.
Yes , we'll be installing carpet. We thought about doing some wood-look tile since we have hardwood throughout the rest of the house, but we landed on carpet. With the uneven floors anything but carpet would be difficult. We'll also need to put shoe molding on. There's just too big of a gap in some spots.
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post #63 of 98 Old 10-04-2016, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fazzz View Post
Yes , we'll be installing carpet. We thought about doing some wood-look tile since we have hardwood throughout the rest of the house, but we landed on carpet. With the uneven floors anything but carpet would be difficult. We'll also need to put shoe molding on. There's just too big of a gap in some spots.
I'm a bit confused looking at your pictures as to why your baseboard has gaps... isn't the subfloor even? (even if it's not quite level) If it's an even surface, shouldn't the baseboard be able to sit flush on top of the flat surface?

If you really want to eliminate the gaps, you could shave the bottom of your baseboards in the areas that are too high so it sits flush (or closer to flush) with the floor.

You might also try sticking a piece of carpet against/beneath the baseboard to see how much that gap gets hidden by a thick piece of carpet. Hard to tell from the pictures without a reference point.
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post #64 of 98 Old 10-04-2016, 09:47 PM - Thread Starter
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I need some help from the forum again. Doing a lot of the molding now and have an issue on the riser stairs I need to work through. My stairs are shorter than the base molding we're using so I don't know how best to connect the two.

Tough to see in the picture so I created some Powerpoint diagrams. Here's the column next to my riser and step. The front of the step is flush with the front of the column.


Any idea of how to make this work? Here's what I could come up with?


Here are the actual pictures:




I have a similar problem on the other side of my riser. When I bend the molding down the front of the step, it doesn't connect perfectly because the molding is taller than the step.


Other than that my riser is mostly done and I'm a good way along on the trim.

I finished the step with the flip top cover my drain cleanout. It actually worked as a perfect spot for an outlet for the LED strip lights I'll need for the riser. If, for whatever reason, I need to get to the cleanout, I can just open up the step and have at it.

Cleanout hole with step up.


Riser with cover open


Cover closed


Pics of the rest of the room as it stands now. Looking at screen wall. I'm not doing a stage since my ceiling height is only a little over 7 feet. Plus that will make it easier to convert back to a regular room if we ever sell.


Riser


Side of Room with trim
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post #65 of 98 Old 10-05-2016, 04:10 PM - Thread Starter
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I think I'm just going to go with something like this. It won't connect exactly around the corner, but it should look good.

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post #66 of 98 Old 10-16-2016, 05:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Another update. Been working on the rack, trim, and riser (still). Chair rail is done and crown molding is 98% finished.
Decided to go with this trim on down the steps of the riser. This is what I ended up doing with the trim going down the steps from my last post. I need to finish this on all 3 riser steps.


My AV closet is basically complete. I just need to finish building the rest of the shelves and cut open a door in the back for access.

From the front:

From further away:

From the top back looking down into the closet. I left the back half of the top open for easier access and to provide an outlet to vent heat. The back of the space is 3/4" plywood so I plan on cutting a rectangular opening and adding some hinges and a latch to give me easy access to things.

The trim on my riser has been giving me fits. I'm going with oak bullnose on the front of the riser and steps and it's been kind of a pain. My impatience has killed me a few times where I cut or routed pieces before I should have and had to redo. More money and time, but I'm in it already this much I might as well do it right. On my last trip to the Depot Saturday night I finally decided to just do full oak trim on the steps. My original plan was to have carpet on the steps and faces of the riser with just the bullnose on the front. I was able to find some 1/4" and 1/2" oak "hobby board" at HD that was reasonably priced and I pulled the trigger on it. I'll just have carpet on the top of the riser with oak on all the faces and steps. Hopefully, I can pull it off ok.





I have all my LED strip light connections wired up on the riser. I went with lights and everything from hitlights.com One thing I need to do is pull the bullnose out further. I cut some assuming a 1" overhang would be enough for the strip lights and I need probably another half inch.

I also placed an order for my new AVR. Went with the Denon 4300H and picked up a HEOS 3 speaker for my wife. She's been asking about getting a whole house sound system and this will be a good start.

More pics of what things look like (a mess)




Once I finish the riser, the theater side of the room is mostly done. I need to finish the LED strip lights on the molding and riser, hook up the projector mount/projector, build my screen wall and screen (plan on doing that after the carpet is in), and hook up the surrounds. I'll probably have an electrician come soon to finish all the wiring. That's one thing I'm not touching myself. Then I just need to finish the panel in front of the electric panel. I have a piece of drywall cut out (you can see it leaning against the wall in one of the pics), but I also bought a piece of 1/2" insulation and may try just painting and using that instead. The crown molding on the back wall works really well for holding it in. I'm hoping things are done by Christmas.
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post #67 of 98 Old 10-20-2016, 10:11 AM
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One option for the step is to essentially 'end' the Baseboard at the very edge of the step, then pick it back up at the lower level wall. Think of it just like going from the top corner of your door, and how you 'turn' it from the Horizontal to Vertical edge. But instead of the vertical edge continuing down to the door, it 'ends' at the top of the step. I can't figure out how to explain in words what I mean..

The lower left portion of this picture is an example, you can see where this 'steps' down from my riser outside my theater, down to the left, to my main basement floor. This is small, but might give you an idea.



If this is at all interesting, I could take a 'closer up' picture for you... but if it isn't of interest, I won't bother.
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post #68 of 98 Old 10-24-2016, 07:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post
One option for the step is to essentially 'end' the Baseboard at the very edge of the step, then pick it back up at the lower level wall. Think of it just like going from the top corner of your door, and how you 'turn' it from the Horizontal to Vertical edge. But instead of the vertical edge continuing down to the door, it 'ends' at the top of the step. I can't figure out how to explain in words what I mean..

The lower left portion of this picture is an example, you can see where this 'steps' down from my riser outside my theater, down to the left, to my main basement floor. This is small, but might give you an idea.



If this is at all interesting, I could take a 'closer up' picture for you... but if it isn't of interest, I won't bother.
Thanks for sending. That could have been an option, but I finished already. I kind of did something like that, but instead of turning it down at the step and ending it at the corner, I chose to turn the molding down and end it on top of the step. I just need to fill in the center piece. Here's how it turned out.

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post #69 of 98 Old 10-24-2016, 08:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Oak trim on the riser is done. What a beast this was. The addition of the bullnose and trim probably took me 50-60 hours total. I had to redo multiple pieces along the way, but I think it came out really nice. I still need to sand and stain. I also changed the hinged door over my drainage pipe cleanout to a new design. Not sure why I didn't go with this from the start because it works much better than the hinged approach. I basically added some blocks to the bottom so it sets down inside the step and holds very tightly. Hinges wouldn't have worked with oak trip so this was my only option.
You can see here how I hid an outlet to power all my LED light strips. I can hide the LED power supply and controller here.

Underneath the board in here is the cleanout.


You can see the bottom of the lid here. Cut to fit perfectly inside the frame.

Fits right down into the opening.


More pics of the molding and oak trim. I used 1/4" and 1/2" think red oak.






Wiring for the LED light connectors hid in the corners.


Here's what the whole side step looks like with the cap on the storage area. You can see the closure for the storage area on the right.


The stain we're going with is Minwax Jacobean. It's a darker color.

Anyone know a good product for patching holes in red oak? I've heard of the sawdust and glue thing but am hoping to just buy something off the shelf, if possible.
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post #70 of 98 Old 11-07-2016, 07:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Riser is officially finished. Oak trim has now all been stained and polyed. I also added in my LED strip lights from hitlights.com. I absolutely love these lights. They are controlled with an app on my phone. They're probably overkill, but they're pretty fun to play with. I'm really getting down to the finish line. Still need to connect all the electrical and add in plugs and switches. Most of the rest of the work that needs to be done is on the room opposite the theater. I need to figure out what I'm putting up behind the screen wall. Probably some Linacoustic or some foam acoustic panels like the ones down at the bottom of the post.











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post #71 of 98 Old 11-08-2016, 01:36 PM
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Wow. Look great. Love the millwork.
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post #72 of 98 Old 11-09-2016, 10:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Wow. Look great. Love the millwork.
Thanks. Still have some work to do on the trim, but it's mostly done. Good thing you can't see all the blemishes in the pictures. Haha
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post #73 of 98 Old 11-14-2016, 08:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Projector mount is up. Using a Crimson AV JR model. Projector is a Panny AE8000U. https://crimsonav.com/jr.html
It came with the projector for free when I bought it from Projector People. Seems to be very sturdy.




View from the back row. Still need to decide on the screen. I got some XD and UF samples from Seymour. Trying to decide whether to DIY the screen or just buy one from Seymour and put it together. Looks to be about an $800 save to go DIY. At this point it's just coming down to the time. My wife just wants the job done.


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post #74 of 98 Old 01-04-2017, 05:23 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm long overdue for an update. I was off for close to two weeks over Christmas so I was able to wrap up a lot of loose ends. It's amazing how much time all the little things take. It's like moving homes. You pack up the couches, beds, and tables and it doesn't take much time, but makes you feel like you're almost done because the whole space opens up. Then you open up all the closets and drawers and realize all the little stuff is going to take you much more time to pack.

Here's what I worked on over the holidays:
  • Bought my Linacoustic for behind the screen. Paid about $290 for a 4' x 100' foot roll of which I'll only probably need maybe 100 sq ft. I put the top half of the wall up, but will wait for the carpet to go in for the bottom.
  • Finished up adding all the trim -- crown molding, molding on the stairs, molding on the risers steps, etc.
  • Lots of painting
  • Finished drywalling my stairs,
  • Added a door between my room and the utility room in the basement with stain.
  • Added a flat screen TV with flex-mount stand
  • Had Directv installed in the basement
  • Moved all my equipment into the rack. I'm only about half filled so I have space for more.
  • Finished my "plug" for the hole in from of the electric panel.
  • Received my seats. Bought Warwicks from HTMarket.com. They're still in the garage waiting for my carpet.
  • I decided on a screen. Purchased a 115" Seymour Premier with UF material. I decided not to DIY the screen after all. At this point, I just want to be done and didn't want to delay things any longer while I fumbled around with the screen. I figure the screen is arguably the most important feature so why risk screwing it up. The screen is in the box waiting for the carpet install.

The one thing I didn't do much of is take pictures. I'll take some tonight and post. My carpet is scheduled to go in next Tuesday. Then I can move in my chairs, speakers, build the false wall for the screen, and put it up.
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post #75 of 98 Old 01-04-2017, 07:19 AM
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Keep up the good work, Fazzz - can't wait to see the finished product!
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post #76 of 98 Old 01-04-2017, 05:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are some pictures of where things stand right now.

View from front row of seats. My Fusion Alchemy's are here just to run some tests. I need to figure out once the carpet goes in and I put up the false wall where to place it. Do I push it further back and pull the sub up front or push it behind the AT screen and move the screen forward. I bought a screen with Seymour UF so I wouldn't have worry about any screen effects if sitting close.


View of back of theater room with my roll of Linacoustic. This stuff is great. Very easy to put up. I wonder if there are other uses for it. Can I wrap this around ducts to help with insulation? I know it's supposed to line the inside. Otherwise, I'll probably just sell on Craigslist.


My DIY rack. Looks pretty empty. Bought a new 4K blu ray player for the 4K TV.



View of the other side of the basement facing TV.


Other side of basement facing stairs


Facing out of the theater toward the stairs and rack


Stairs with rack underneath


Still lots to do, but once the carpet goes in next Tuesday at least it will look a lot neater and I'll be able to wrap up some of the major stuff.
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post #77 of 98 Old 01-05-2017, 01:09 PM
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Nice build, do you have any details on how you plugged up the hole for your electrical panel? I'm going to have to tackle the exact same issue with my build, just with an even bigger hole. Thanks.
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post #78 of 98 Old 01-05-2017, 01:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Nice build, do you have any details on how you plugged up the hole for your electrical panel? I'm going to have to tackle the exact same issue with my build, just with an even bigger hole. Thanks.
You can see my plug in the left side of this pic. I'm not doing any soundproofing in my room so it's really nothing fancy at all. I cut out a piece of drywall to fit the opening and painted it the same color as the wall. On the top it fits up behind the crown molding, which holds it in place. I put a piece of fabric on the bottom that's attached to the back of the panel (you can kind of see it) so I have something to hold to lift it up and pull it out. The concept itself is solid but, I have to say, it doesn't fit perfectly (i.e. you can see the seam easily and there's a 1/2" gap in some spots). It's probably the one part of the room that I'm the least happy with. I just didn't have a better option that was easy to do. I looked at making a fabric frame, but abandoned that option. You can see the frame I built in the second pic below. That wasn't going to look good either. No matter what I was going to have some kind of visible seam. Hopefully this helped out a little.


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post #79 of 98 Old 01-05-2017, 02:01 PM
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Ah ok, thanks. I am doing soundproofing, so I'm going to have to come up with something a little more complicated unfortunately. Thanks for the response.
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post #80 of 98 Old 01-05-2017, 04:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Ah ok, thanks. I am doing soundproofing, so I'm going to have to come up with something a little more complicated unfortunately. Thanks for the response.
Yes, soundproofing certainly makes things more complicated. I feel for all you guys trying to pull off soundproofing. Just doing the theather itself is a monumental task let alone soundproofing on top of that. Good luck figuring out things. I have seen some guys on here orient the room so the electrical panel is behind their screen wall, which makes things a little easier (at least takes the pressure off needing it to look good) .

My wife ended up putting the kibosh on my dedicated room in favor of a leaving it open. That was the final nail in the coffin for even considering soundproofing. Plus, height was at a premium and I didn't want to spend lots of extra dough on something I wasn't confident I could properly do. I haven't put my sub down there yet and really cranked things up, but I have to say I think I made the right call. My walls are decoupled from the foundation because of how the foundation was poured (there are footings that stick out about 6") so that has certainly helped contain sound. Plus, in old homes (at least in mine) they apparently poured concrete into the floor in the bathrooms and kitchen so my kitchen floor above the riser is rock solid and the bathroom above part of the other room has a full concrete floor underneath two layers of tile. I have a den above the other part of my theater room and a dining room above the other half of the basement room so I should be ok. I guess I'll have to ask my wife that when I'm watching Blackhawk Down. One of the best surround sound movies I remember hearing and I picked it up off Amazon.
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post #81 of 98 Old 01-05-2017, 04:55 PM
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Looking great!
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post #82 of 98 Old 01-05-2017, 07:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Looking great!
Thanks. It's come a long way. Glad it's almost done.
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post #83 of 98 Old 01-11-2017, 12:39 PM
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I just saw your build thread. It looks great so far. I am in western mass. Where in Ct are you. I was considering trying to have a meet in the near future.

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post #84 of 98 Old 01-12-2017, 10:51 AM - Thread Starter
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I just saw your build thread. It looks great so far. I am in western mass. Where in Ct are you. I was considering trying to have a meet in the near future.
That would be awesome. I'm in Fairfield County so I'm about 1.5 hours away from the closest point in Mass. Not sure if that's close enough. I haven't seen too many others on here in CT. Knowing the people in this area, I'm sure there are lots of theaters, just more of the Dennis Erskine-designed / 30-seat / $$$$$$$$ variety. Maybe the Rob Hahn theater will open its doors for a GTG.
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post #85 of 98 Old 03-01-2017, 05:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, I should probably close this build out for the most part and thank everyone for all the help on these boards along the way. Even though this forum probably cost me an extra $5-10K (ha ha), I couldn't have done it without this forum. My room came out completely different than what I started with here, but it's so much better than I could have ever imagined. I finally got the carpet in the beginning of the year, which enabled me to move in all the speakers (5.1.4 with 3 DIY LCRs and a DIY marty cube), add chairs (Warwicks from HTmarket.com), build my false wall and screen and bring down all the other furniture. I just finally added my copper Paragon 4 oz popcorn machine the end of last week (took the pics before that came in) to complete things. Here's a bunch of pictures that show how it went from unfinished to 98% complete -- still need to add the balustrade, a light at the top of the stairs, and a door nob. It's really tough to get the motivation now that it's fully functioning. I have the whole room hooked up so that I can control everything (except the iNuke) with an iPad with the Harmony app and the milight app for the lights.

Here's what I started with. Half of the space was an old room with wood panels from probably the 70s and the other half pictured below was unfinished with lots of issues to work through.



My original plans called for a dedicated theater room that was turned around from what I ended up with. I also ended up (at my wife's behest) opening up the room, which I have to say was a great idea. The room looks much bigger and can more easily accommodate larger groups without the wall in the middle.



What it looked like before the carpet came in. The carpet came from Lowes and was Stainmaster.



My new 115" Seymour AV premier screen with UF material. I was going to DIY the screen, but I was so worn out with things that I decided to just pony up the extra money and purchase things so I didn't have to worry. The frame is incredible and the picture even better. Very happy with this purchase.





I ripped off Bigs minimal screen wall goalpost style for the front. I have a low ceiling (7'1") so I didn't put in a stage. Plus I was trying to keep things so that if for whatever reason I needed to take down the theater I could restore the room with just some spackle and paint. Hopefully, that won't happen. Here's how the screen wall came together. Very sturdy and easy to put together. I made fabric panels for the outside of the screen using GOM fabric that I bought online.







Here are the finished pics with the HTMarket.com Warwick seats and the rest of the furniture in place. I highly recommend their seats, by the way. Alan the owner is very active on the forum and the customer service and price/value is great.












With both the TV and theater on. Used this setup during the Super Bowl.


My step lights and tray LED strip lights. One of my favorite features in the whole room.



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post #86 of 98 Old 03-02-2017, 09:17 PM
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Congrats, looks very nice!
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post #87 of 98 Old 03-21-2017, 01:32 PM
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Nice Setup! Love the detail and the consideration for regular tv watching. Best of both worlds there. WooT!

My Media Room
AVR 1-Yamaha RX-A3050 (7.2.4), AVR 2 Pioneer VSX-815-K(Used for 4ch Amp TF+TR)
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post #88 of 98 Old 04-04-2017, 04:16 PM
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Thanks for the detailed posts, I definitely have a lot to think about in the coming weeks...


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post #89 of 98 Old 07-28-2017, 04:51 PM
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post #90 of 98 Old 08-01-2017, 10:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Just adding in one of the last things I planned on building for my space. I ripped the idea off a few guys on here and Tedd helped with access to some of his images. I built this using a 43" Toshiba 1080P TV and some oak trim to match the oak riser and other oak accents I have in my room. It was really cheap and easy to do. I created a template in Adobe Illustrator that I just dropped the movie poster image into and then I save as a jpg. I load a bunch of those onto a USB stick and load it into the back of the movie. I have the theater name, which is my name and is blurred out, on top of the movie poster. I downloaded some free movie-themed fonts and some other free vector graphics to create the template.

What this doesn't do like some of the other fancier versions is sync up to the movie that's playing. Would love to do something that automatically displays the poster of the movie that's playing, but I'd need some way of controlling that wirelessly since I didn't pre-wire for this and I don't have a HTPC. I have to manually turn the TV on using the remote (there's a pin-sized hole drilled through the front to give access to the IR receiver dongle) and find the picture of the movie I want to display, which is all manual. Wish there was a simple way of doing that for novices like myself. Anyway, here are the pictures.






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