Wendell Lucas THX Cinema build - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 241 Old 04-06-2015, 08:17 PM
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The Seaton subs (Although they are probably better than the THX ones) would probably keep it from being certified.
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post #62 of 241 Old 04-07-2015, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamest View Post
Equipment installed, if you call it that. more like placed. Will be working on DIY masking system soon.

Excuse me for a minute. Need to change my pants.

Beautiful room.
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I love my iPhone, but it will never replace my turntable. I've never seen Titanic OR XXXXXXXXX

The Cinema 1858 Remodel Thread
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post #63 of 241 Old 04-07-2015, 11:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TMcG View Post
Very nice. Would love to see more pics of the detail work when you have a chance.

Thoughts and prayers for your grandfather's recovery.
Thank you so much. He is thankfully, it has been a roller-coaster ride of ups and downs though he asked for some french fries the other day LOL and is eating again, thats good.
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post #64 of 241 Old 04-07-2015, 11:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by schmidtwi View Post
Wow, what a quick build, you work fast.

Very nice HT!
LOL, no I wish. I started in February 2014. I Just decided to post all that has been done since then in one day.
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post #65 of 241 Old 04-07-2015, 11:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Maklar View Post
Are these diy panels? If so, do you have any more details on how you did them?
Yes, and no. What I mean is, I can not seem to find all my pictures from a four month gap during such time I was building them. They were made from standard Lowes top grade wood. I added rubber backed carpeted mats that were cut in striped section stapled on to the backs(can be seen in some pictures). Then I added one layer of first reflection acoustic absorption material I got from an old movie theater that was being renovated (I could add some pictures of that material I still have some. I was given them when I was working in the arcade at that mall Roanoke VA “Valley View mall theater”). Then I added the foam seen as the last layer. This material can be had NextAcoustics for what I consider very reasonable prices. I do need to go back and fix that last step. The foam did not fit my panels perfectly and after pining them down some areas popped out. When the lights shine down on them this can be seen as darker spots. I can send you more information on the details if you would like.
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post #66 of 241 Old 04-07-2015, 11:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elill View Post
Nice work, looks great.

One quick question, its not actually THX certified (as in the room) is it?
Well, what part? The Panels? if so no, the acoustic materials inside them came from a THX cinema but they are not truly certifided in total design. More or less everything else in this room IS as I wanted to keep that theme. And look.
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post #67 of 241 Old 04-07-2015, 11:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneJoy View Post
The Seaton subs (Although they are probably better than the THX ones) would probably keep it from being certified.
Was wondering when this was going to come up. Yes, I love the high sensitivity of the Klipsch ultra2s for there sick Mid bass. But the Seaton is so much better in the lower range. Having a THX logo on a Seaton is like a lamborghini having a certified twin turbo12V Fast logo on it. It is soooooo not needed
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post #68 of 241 Old 04-07-2015, 01:41 PM
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What are you doing to keep all that heat from creating a sauna? All that gear in back must heat up room like a Summer day.
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post #69 of 241 Old 04-07-2015, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamest View Post
Yes, and no. What I mean is, I can not seem to find all my pictures from a four month gap during such time I was building them. They were made from standard Lowes top grade wood. I added rubber backed carpeted mats that were cut in striped section stapled on to the backs(can be seen in some pictures). Then I added one layer of first reflection acoustic absorption material I got from an old movie theater that was being renovated (I could add some pictures of that material I still have some. I was given them when I was working in the arcade at that mall Roanoke VA “Valley View mall theater”). Then I added the foam seen as the last layer. This material can be had NextAcoustics for what I consider very reasonable prices. I do need to go back and fix that last step. The foam did not fit my panels perfectly and after pining them down some areas popped out. When the lights shine down on them this can be seen as darker spots. I can send you more information on the details if you would like.
Found the material on NextAcoustics, thanks
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post #70 of 241 Old 04-07-2015, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by gamest View Post
Spent many long hours in this room. The circular table saw was my grandpas and I could not have done this build without it. Only wish it was closer to our house. Going back and forth was an added workout.


^^^ Love that knotty pine, great choice

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Originally Posted by gamest View Post
Here is what I decided to make my starfield out of. I just bought some standard 1inch thick 4X8 sheets of foam board. They have a nice aluminized back that handled the glue for the black felt very well. Poked holes (no need to drill like wood much easier to work with) in all the locations were the fiber optical cables go through. Pulled the cables through random spots and glued the ends. It’s funny how describing this process it sounds so simple and easy, and is. But doing it for 1600 stars, ahhhhhhhh took days! I will not do that again. My fingers ache just looking at the pictures. I can’t believe I even considered doing my Northern hemisphere sky line accurately. That would have taken weeks.





^^^ You rock for making that DIY starfield, kudos

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Originally Posted by Elill View Post
Nice work, looks great.

One quick question, its not actually THX certified (as in the room) is it?
Well, can you post some charts of your rooms Freq plots, ETC charts for above 250hz, waterfall charts for below 250hz, etc. Multiple seat positions, overlays, etc.
I'd love to see that data.

btw, THX certified, how does your room match these specs? "self-certified"?
http://www.audioholics.com/trade-sho...heater-program
Quote:
THX Standards
Picture:
  • 16:9 > =36 degree horizontal viewing angle
  • native HD capable
  • Screen luminance > = 16ft lamberts
  • THX certified, acoustically transparent screen
Sound
  • Mid-band reverberant field pink noise < +/-4dBC between any two seating positions
  • No audible distortion playing program material at 115dBC
  • Background noise < =NC22
  • At least four surround speakers, two side and two back
User Interface
  • Remote controls with a logical user interface
  • All basic functions available with a single key stroke
Measurement
  • Video performance measurements taken using Sencore CP5000 quality gear or better
  • Audio performance measurements taken using four microphone spatial/temporal RTA techniques with 1/12 octave resolution or better.
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post #71 of 241 Old 04-08-2015, 12:46 AM
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THX actually recommend a 40 degree viewing angle for 16:9 with good HD material (around 52 degrees with a scope screen of the same height viewed from the same seat). The 36 degree angle is for the recommended back row of a theatre using a 2.35 screen.

For digital images (not film), the recommended screen luminance is (or at least was) 12fL +or- 1fL (film is 16, +- 2fL)

Gary

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post #72 of 241 Old 04-08-2015, 08:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by doublewing11 View Post
What are you doing to keep all that heat from creating a sauna? All that gear in back must heat up room like a Summer day.
That was a major problem in my last home theater and I did not have a projector. So far given winter time it has not been a problem but I do worry about how it will be in the summer time. We really only use it for movie watching so maybe three hours at a time. We have a separate room for TV, music, gaming. The AC/heat vent is right over the left side of the equipment racks. But the real problem is that there is no return in that room. So it might very well become a problem.
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post #73 of 241 Old 04-08-2015, 09:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post
Well, can you post some charts of your rooms Freq plots, ETC charts for above 250hz, waterfall charts for below 250hz, etc. Multiple seat positions, overlays, etc.
I'd love to see that data.

btw, THX certified, how does your room match these specs? "self-certified"?
http://www.audioholics.com/trade-sho...heater-program
The “room” as it sits now, has not been THX certified under the current Ultra2 program you are referencing. I was planning on doing that along with some sort of control system later. But under the cert, at this point, and I am not finished with the build, would fail due to no acoustically transparent screen. But yes I plan on posting all the goodies, detailed plots and so forth. But as I have said, I have only done the most basic sweeps and playing around with different placements of speakers. Still deciding on my preferred placement and settings because even after cert, I will still be turning off all the THX filters, THX modes, double bass, screen re-EQ and all that stuff that I just don’t like what these filters due to the natural sounds of the speakers. So far given what I have seen in sweeps would easily meet the cert for front row. Not likely for back row because of some smearing issues but I designed for optimal front row sitting. Might be to close to screen but was considering 4k and that is a contradiction to current THX standards at this point(I think?). Also, that is why I did not want to build a static raised floor for seating. I needed to be able to change the seating positions(and projector position) at any time with out rebuilding the room(Note: anyone planning your build don’t forget to consider that as you never know what might change in your equipment down the road 4k and such). I am still having some problems matching (middle-ing between AT fronts and Seaton for lows) the klipsch U2 subs with fronts and Seaton. The Seaton plays well with others but the insane sensitivity of the Klispch subs and or amps attenuation wants to mate with much higher sensitive speakers. I think as designed for that system. I will make it work but Audyssey was totally confused with them when playing around those first days of testing. I have not done calibration stuff in over a decade. All my experience comes from the 90’s when it was soooooo much harder. We did not have any of these great new tools and I am playing catch up.
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post #74 of 241 Old 04-08-2015, 09:17 AM
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I remember this theater having similar issues (only supply no return) and solving it
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-ded...e-theater.html
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Last edited by drriddhish; 04-08-2015 at 09:40 AM.
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post #75 of 241 Old 04-08-2015, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Lightfoot View Post
THX actually recommend a 40 degree viewing angle for 16:9 with good HD material (around 52 degrees with a scope screen of the same height viewed from the same seat). The 36 degree angle is for the recommended back row of a theatre using a 2.35 screen.

For digital images (not film), the recommended screen luminance is (or at least was) 12fL +or- 1fL (film is 16, +- 2fL)

Gary
Hi Gary - there is not really much documented material on THX home cert besides that 10 year old article, I've come across the below visual viewing guide for scope screens, which matches what you've stated.

Where'd you get those specs for luminance? I've not seen them before stated like that, thx for posting them.
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post #76 of 241 Old 04-08-2015, 10:24 AM
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hi Mike,

THXs Theatre Alignment Program (TAP) has a lot of useful info:

http://www.film-tech.com/warehouse/m...GUIDELINES.pdf

I don't know if they've changed anything regarding the luminance in recent years, but those were the guidelines before.

Gary.

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Originally Posted by elmalloc
Who says Cameron is "right" and why do we care about him so much - lol!

I trust Gary Lightfoot more than James Cameron.
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post #77 of 241 Old 04-08-2015, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamest View Post
That was a major problem in my last home theater and I did not have a projector. So far given winter time it has not been a problem but I do worry about how it will be in the summer time. We really only use it for movie watching so maybe three hours at a time. We have a separate room for TV, music, gaming. The AC/heat vent is right over the left side of the equipment racks. But the real problem is that there is no return in that room. So it might very well become a problem.
No return?

Quick.......try to find a means to pull air out! You might find that room becoming a "Richard Simmons" work out room......ie a room to avoid!

Without proper return, you'll surely have heat issues creaping upon you!
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post #78 of 241 Old 04-09-2015, 10:09 AM - Thread Starter
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The basement has a return and the entire AC/heating system is down there. It is always so cold down there I did not think one was needed. I did not want a lot of sound leaking out was my thought, I know I have seen a lot of interesting ways to fix this from the forums and I might do that. The best place might be under the screen stage as that wall faces the AC/heater and the basement return. I think I will wait till summer as right now even with heat on we are freezing in there till some point about 2hours into a movie. I know it s hard to believe but that has been the case. I never would have guessed it. It most likly has to due with fact that the basement is not finished and concert radiates the cold ground. That will change and then would be more of a problem.
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post #79 of 241 Old 04-09-2015, 10:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Their is an Epson LS10000 on evil-bay right now, 5hours left, new full 4year warranty for sale. But I just cant justify the cost given I have not seen one yet. I m sure it is amazing but their might be a cheaper lamp based projector for 4k in 4 months ish. I need to finish my projector cover but if I build the one I was planing for my two projectors then I would need to rebuild it for one later. I really want 4k! now! because I did see the Sony600ES in action with up scaling and was fricken amazing.
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post #80 of 241 Old 04-09-2015, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Lightfoot View Post
hi Mike,

THXs Theatre Alignment Program (TAP) has a lot of useful info:

http://www.film-tech.com/warehouse/m...GUIDELINES.pdf

I don't know if they've changed anything regarding the luminance in recent years, but those were the guidelines before.

Gary.
That's a great find, I read it all, that document from 2000, after reading it I see it's for TAP, Theater Alignment Program, the big commercial indoor theater not home?
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post #81 of 241 Old 04-09-2015, 12:16 PM
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It's still applicable for home theatre use - reflectance levels, viewing angles etc. It's much the same for commercial use and screening rooms. If you follow the same guidelines then you'll be seeing things in much the same way as the director did in a THX certified theatre or screening room.

If you check the THX guidelines for a HDTV 16:9 tv, it will have the same viewing angle guidelines for example:

http://www.thx.com/consumer/home-ent...r/hdtv-set-up/

This THX interview video might be useful:


Gary.

Quote:
Originally Posted by elmalloc
Who says Cameron is "right" and why do we care about him so much - lol!

I trust Gary Lightfoot more than James Cameron.
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post #82 of 241 Old 04-09-2015, 01:12 PM - Thread Starter
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This THX interview video might be useful:
very cool
Thanks
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post #83 of 241 Old 04-09-2015, 01:40 PM - Thread Starter
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So this is what I would like to change on my starfield. I wish I could go back in time to correct this look that I have seen other do so well. It’s that blue haze on the horizon line look. I might be able to do it better but it looks like I will be able to see the seam from curved area to the start of the flat sections. So was wondering what others thought?

Leave it the way it is, or change it to this all the way around?



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post #84 of 241 Old 04-13-2015, 10:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Update on my grandpa, good news. I found out he has been moved to a rehabilitative section and is doing much better now.

I think I have made my decision to stay with dual projectors for the time being. Or at least till a more affordable 4k Projector comes along. So, maybe I will finish the projector covers. I have some idea of what I want. Still playing around with speaker locations. Also looking into where my Atmos ceiling four speakers will go given starfield is now in the way(I had not planed for Atmos). I really need two more 451lr or two 453c would be even better. Much easier to work into the front top stage area given such little space. I think I will decide later on the addition I had posted earlier to change the starfield.
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post #85 of 241 Old 04-13-2015, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamest View Post
The basement has a return and the entire AC/heating system is down there. It is always so cold down there I did not think one was needed. I did not want a lot of sound leaking out was my thought, I know I have seen a lot of interesting ways to fix this from the forums and I might do that. The best place might be under the screen stage as that wall faces the AC/heater and the basement return. I think I will wait till summer as right now even with heat on we are freezing in there till some point about 2hours into a movie. I know it s hard to believe but that has been the case. I never would have guessed it. It most likly has to due with fact that the basement is not finished and concert radiates the cold ground. That will change and then would be more of a problem.
The reason you're probably freezing even with the heat on is because you have no return. Your HVAC will never be effective in a sealed room with no return, whether you're trying to heat it or cool it. If there is no place for air to go, it won't get pumped in no matter how many or how big your supplies are. You're going to need a return, no question, or you'll never be able to regulate the temp in there. You probably have other rooms in your house with no returns in them that are just fine, but I bet there are big gaps under the doors. Those gaps are the returns in rooms like that. There simply has to be a place for the air to go.

BTW, congrats on the improvement of your grandpa...that is great news indeed.

--
My latest theater build: Whisper Mountain Theater
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post #86 of 241 Old 04-14-2015, 02:46 AM - Thread Starter
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The reason you're probably freezing even with the heat on is because you have no return. Your HVAC will never be effective in a sealed room with no return, whether you're trying to heat it or cool it. If there is no place for air to go, it won't get pumped in no matter how many or how big your supplies are. You're going to need a return, no question, or you'll never be able to regulate the temp in there. You probably have other rooms in your house with no returns in them that are just fine, but I bet there are big gaps under the doors. Those gaps are the returns in rooms like that. There simply has to be a place for the air to go.

BTW, congrats on the improvement of your grandpa...that is great news indeed.
Thank you,

And yeah, I agree. Maybe the doors I built are letting some air flow out in the back of the room. Because I can put my hand there and the flow is strong. I know I can easily add some ductwork under the equipment stand that would go out under the floor where I have speaker cables going out. But I think a better solution would be some where in the front of the room where the screen is. Whatever I end up adding will have lots of duct turns for sound proofing as much as possible. I really would like to avoid adding a fan in the duct tube work, and I don't think I would need one. Or house was built very well. We have returns in every room and I cant say that for all the other homes I have lived in. But this basement was left unfinished by our request. Another place I did not think of till now is inside the starfield. Lots of easy room up there to go directly to the return in the basement. I am not sure if a return would work better low or high in a room? I would think middle height would be the best for both heat and AC.
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post #87 of 241 Old 04-14-2015, 03:20 AM - Thread Starter
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I work long four day shifts but then have four days off. Its funny how with this much down time I will go into the room, and at this almost finished stage will do the "well, I could fix that, or maybe finish that, or........... just watch a move ". So my productivity went down fast once the equipment was actually capable of being used and not just siting in a box.
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post #88 of 241 Old 04-29-2015, 11:49 AM
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Awesome how you were able to get the new Star Wars movie on your screen wall like that!!!!!!

Great build. I always love blue tray ceiling lights!
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post #89 of 241 Old 04-29-2015, 05:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks,
You can find some high resolution images online that had been enhanced from the original trailer. However, I was in a hurry to post here and forgot to display the images on my projector when taking all these pictures. Hence, welcome Photoshop When I do watch the trailer, my iscan DVDO flashes my projector not to display anything outside of the 2.40:1 images space. So, no light leakage on the top and bottom. It works perfectly for filling ONLY the screen no mater what ratio the movie might be in like 2.35:1 or 1.85:1, 1.78:1 and so on.

Maybe I will post my next images of my almost finished projector cover(taking forever) with a shot of the sweeeet new Star Wars: Rogue One trailer. Looks frickin amazing!!
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post #90 of 241 Old 05-05-2015, 08:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Been busy and I have not had much time to work on the build. Here are some pictures of my almost finished projector cover. I went with a heat sink sort of look with vents to allow for no disruption in heat flow out the side. This is NO hush box, but is hush-y maybe by -3db. Basically I used leftover foam panels and covered them in black felt. Then I added foam insert between each layer. The cover is less than 1lb and slides off for easy access to both projectors. I should finish the rest of the back cover soon.


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