Well I've been putting this off for long enough. Time for a build thread so you guys can catch all my boo boos hopefully before I make them! I'll try and post as many pictures as possible but I'll be moving fast as I'm acting as the General contractor on my house at the same time.
EDIT- Build time was about 3 weeks, evenings after works, weekends. I'd guess about 200 hrs. Prior planning and lots and lots of time here pays off!
This is my 2nd Dedicated HT. The first is below and I've missed the Heck out of it as we sold that house last summer.
So here's the old room...
I loved that room.. It's been a long year since I've seen it....or had a room.."insert slow sad painful music...
Enough mourning.. time for the new build!!
We spent a year designing our house and broke ground in January and we are about 6 weeks from finishing the construction. I'm the general Contractor and doing some myself.. I'm slow and busy as I've ever been with every spare moment dealing with subs while doing a lot myself. I'm the painter, part electrician, speaker system guy, alarm guy, coordinator, stain floor guy, hang fans guy, paint kitchen cabinet guy, install door knob guy and HT designer installer.. and everything else. I've got multiple personalities right now. When it's done I plan to go into a coma for a while.
On to the new room. 21'6" deep, 16' wide 10'4" ceiling on the first row, 9' on the 2nd. 16" riser. There's an adjacent entry room that's around 10'x13' with a ramp that levels off to the rear row level and brings you to the equipment and equipment closet. The room is upstairs, spray foam insulation under it, and on every wall around it. The screen wall is really the only one that adjoins to the living areas and it's staggered stud with open cell spray foam, r13, and 1/2 and 5/8 sheetrock (2 layers) and solid as a rock.
Staggered studs are dirt cheap and IMO gets you very close to a room within a room. So close that 10db below reference and You'd never know anyone was even in the HT.
If anyone is listening louder than -10db it's me. We usually listen -15 or lower.
The window on the back wall was a code requirement. It''ll be hidden behind a hinged acoustic panel.
I've been researching and buying gear along the way.
I'll also be updating prices as I go. Update... While trying to finish the house I missed some of the little construction prices, trim here and there. For an overall estimate, the room post sheetrock was around $1800. This includes all fabric, paint, wood, Sheetrock for baffle wall, the screen, ductboard (absorption panels), solid core door, hollow core for closet, crown, base, chair rail etc.
That price is room only it doesn't include speakers, projector, amps, AVR or carpet.
The cost for everything including carpet is right around $11,000. Well, still need seating, gotta finish the house first!
... not clones as these have the custom long throw woofers. Found them NIB for $450 each. ~$2k shipped.
Update! Changed to JBL 3677 (my 2nd time having them). The QSC's height was causing issues with the first row. Had I lowered them In the baffle wall it probably would have been fine.
3 JBL 3677 -$1725 shipped.
Here's my review thread the first time I owned the 3677.
. Because I usually sit in the back row the mains behind the screen were too close and I needed to flank the screen. I went with HTM-12s and now have proper width in the back row.
The recommended spacing for mains is 44-60 degrees. To have mains behind the screen requires a huge screen and what almost everyone would consider an uncomfortable viewing angle. Even the minimum 44 degree spacing would require a screen viewing angle over 50 degrees. This is why we always see professional high end room designs having mains flank the screen. When you have mains too close together the image collapses and you get an audible gap as you pan from main to surround. I will say from my back row having them flank the screen is a thousand % improvement in imaging and spaciousness and a seamless transition to the surrounds.
Link to the upgrade
Surrounds, rears, atmos
All hidden in columns or flush to ceiling (Atmos)
Volt 10 LX
.. I've been demoing a pair in my living room as mains for a few months ... absolutely love them.
Ten-volt 10lx ....$1516. Dual surrounds, rears and 4 Atmos.
ATMOS will be IB style crossed at 80hz.
4 corner loaded SI HT18
tuned to 17hz 12 cube boxes, all will be hidden. Corner locations were decided due to research and being a recommended location from research done by Harmon and others on multiple subs for 4 subs in room.
Here's some info on multiple subs ..skip to the 1 hour mark.
And the Harmon study
4 SI 18s....$700
(enclosure) 8 sheet of MDF and misc (glue, insulation etc) ...$350
Behringer inuke DSP3000
Update# upgraded to a inuke NU4 6000 and a mini DSP HD2x4. I needed to be able to add delay between my two rear subs as only the front subs were naturally in phase.
I shouldn't need but 150watts each to hit 120db so I'm trying one amp. (This has been confirmed and reference levels are a cake walk) I'll put the fronts on one channel the rears on the other. Hopefully I can get phase and everything aligned well. If I need I'll add a 2nd amp.
QSC 1644 DCA
(Digital Cinema Amp) 4 channels.. 400 @ 4ohms.
Sold the QCS and bought an Emotiva A700 @$509 shipped during a sale. The system is so sensitive the QSC was way overkill and now I still barely work the Emotiva even at reference but have all the bed channels on one amp.
# nope on the Epson..swapping for a Sony 55es
$2100 (plus 2 free glasses and spare lamp)
## The Epson has a great picture, fantastic at 168". Of course I need high mode for this size and the fan is horribly loud in high even with a hush box (vents out the front so the hush box isn't very effective), What's the point of a low noise floor with this racket going on? A buddy confirmed this on his 5030ub (he normally runs in low) So I sold it and I'm going with the Sony 40es.
## found a great deal on a Sony 55es for $1900 with 1000 hrs on it, spare lamp and a chief mount... so scratch the 40.
165" seymour XD Acoustic screen 16:9
Around $320 for all materials
This will give me the following viewing angles in each row.
@12' =53 degrees
@17' =39 degrees
Of course that's based on scope so here's Cedia's recommendation for 16:9.. the back row is pretty much at the recommended size. We find it perfect.
THX (yes, they do more than just create seat-rattling trailers) previously recommended a 36-degree optimal viewing angle for TVs, and 40 degrees for home theaters with projection screens. But with the advent of 3D in the home, THX has started suggesting 40 degrees for all home viewing.
15 amps for lights and projector
20 amps for amplifiers
20 amps for AVR, Bluray etc.
I'll be using 1.5" ductboard
(4x10 sheet is $43) to treat the side walls, 1" on the front and baffle wall and 2" rockwool on the back wall as a little aluminum tape in strips to liven up the back up a little.
6- 4x10 sheets of 1" certainteed Ultra ...$192 ($32 per 4'x10' sheet)
4- 4x10 sheets of 1.5" certainteed Ultra..$171 ($42.75 per 4'x10' sheet)
2 2x4 rockwool panels I already had from my last build.
DMD acoustic material.
25 yards of Burgundy. $252.70 shipped.
Night Sky Mural DIY star field
. I have outlets along the box ceiling on all four sides for hidden black lights that work off of a switch.
Seatcraft Sonoma in a row of 4 with love and a row of 3. $4200 Shipped.http://4seating.com/seatcraft-theate...ia-chairs.html
It took me months to finally pick a carpet. I don't like busy movie style carpet. I wanted comfortable carpet that had a slight commercial look and didn't cost a fortune. I have to say I couldn't be happier. The carpet has fibers of dark grey, light grey, and black.
Lowe's had like $90 install price as well, spanked all the other bids.
My high end room plan!
This window will be hidden behind a hinged acoustic panel.
Columns flank the entrance with a sub alcove in the corner.
Boxes for the HT18s.
170" with ambient light and the 5030ub in low and THX mode.
Entrance to Foyer and ramp that levels off to the back riser.
DIY Light Boxes
Update ...DIY light boxes... I need a wide lens so I can get the cool entire room shots.
I've also added a Harmony Ultimate which disappeared
so I bought an Elite. Actually like the Ultimate better but both do the job extremely well.