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post #1 of 100 Old 06-22-2015, 08:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Theater on the Fairways

I have finally started my theater build and wanted to track my progress here. For a little background on the theater build you can go to this thread

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-ded...ed-advice.html

This is the reason it is called the Theater on the Fairways... that is the view of the fairway from our back porch

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I started the build last weekend with the Riser and this weekend I worked on the rise. Posts of photos to come.


Here is my General build plan (I had a Microsoft OneNote document with photos and formating but unfortunatly it didn't really transfer all that well to this thread.)

1. Pick out and purchase seating - Rooms to go KingVale

2. Build Stage
a. The Stage build will consist of 2x8s strung around the edge, the first order of business would be to build the rectangular section that will be behind the screen wall. This will consist of 2 long 2x8s with 2 2x8s connecting them to complete the box. There will then be 2x8s' strung across for support. The next part will be the make the visible section of stage (top step first then do bottom step). The Bottom step will consist of 2x4's.

b. For acoustic treatments and vibration reduction I will be filling the gaps in the stage with R19 Insulation

The top of the stage will consist of 2 layers of 3/4" OSB lined up with the stringers / supports.


3. Build rear Riser
a. This will be a very simplified stage build, Build out the frame and then attach horizontal supports. I will then build out the angled step with 2x4's and cover much like the stage with 2 layers of OSB

4. At this point we can start to get estimates on Carpet Install

5. Build front Bass Traps a. The two front corner base traps will be build from 2x4x2 oc703 or Roxul Rock wool insulation. Each 2x4 piece will be able to be cut into 8 rectangles.


Every foot of the bass trap will need 6 rectangles. We have 9 ft ceilings minus 1 foot foor stage, This means for each base trap I will need 48 rectangles, which is 6 Sheets of oc703 for each base trape and 2 bass traps I will need 12 sheets (2x$52) . These will be cut and stacked. Around the base traps there will be a 1x1 boarder for which will hold the bass trap into place, much like a frame that will be 8' x17"


6. Build Screen Wall
The screen wall will be build with the 'goal post' design.

There will be 2 parallel boards running from the top of the stage to the top of the alcove. These two boards will then have a cross member at the top which will also serve as the top of the screen and where the screen mounts too. I will need to frame out the
This step might have to be done after Screen Wall acoustical treatment

7. Screen Wall Acoustical Treatment
a. The Screen wall (Alcove) will also be treated with acoustical treatments. Since this is not seen by anyone unless the screen wall is down they are not as important visually. I will use Linacoustic http://www.jm.com/en/building-materi...inacoustic-rc/ for this (oc703 and Rockwool can be substituted). There will be two layers of this rolled and secured to the wall using screws.



8. Get Carpet Installed
a. During the lag time of getting carpet installed and installation I can be working on the Screen and Side acoustical treatments

9. Build Screen
a. Screen will consist of 1x3 boards connected with 'L' and 'T' brackets.

The covering for the screen will be spandex, two layers

10. Acoustical Treatments / Panels
a. The side and read acoustical treatment panels will be made in 3 different depths.

i. Small will use 1x2s for the frame
ii. Medium will use 1x3s for the frameiii. Large will use 1x4s for the frame b. Each treatment will consist a half piece of OC703 (same as bass traps) which will result in a 2x2 square. The frame will be built around the 2x2 piece and then screwed together. Once the panel has been constructed it will be covered in GOM Fabric (GOM Fabric is acoustically transparent and fire resistant fabric)

c. The side walls will consist of approx 24 of these panels with an additional 12 in the back. All of the back panels will be the large panels and the sides will consist of a mix of small, medium and large

11. Installation of Screen
a. Screen will be attached to the Goal Post screen wall support after the carpet is installed. It will be attached at top via a heavy duty piano hinge. This hinge will allow it to be raised and lowered to access the equipment in the back.

12. Screen Wall Finish out
a. The gaps above, to the side and below the screen will be filled using the same method as with the side acoustical treatments. There will be no OC703 though inside, they will be covered with black GOM fabric and either velcroed in place or friction fit.


Outstanding Questions
• Door
• When to Paint (Behr Mouse Ears Black / Gliddon Mouse Ears Black Flat)
• Where to Paint, Ceiling and walls or just Ceiling. Do I want to paint before the Stage and rise so that I can get the walls behind it or wait till right before carpet?
• How should I trim out the floor boards (the 6" to 12" between floor and bottom acoustical panel)
• Access to behind the screen, I want to build some kind of a hatch / drop down panel in the bottom front where the A/V equipment (Receiver/Xbox etc) will be housed and easily accessible that way I do not have to lift the screen for anything other than servicing the speakers

Last edited by batlin27; 07-01-2015 at 07:30 AM.
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post #2 of 100 Old 06-22-2015, 08:48 AM - Thread Starter
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post #4 of 100 Old 06-22-2015, 09:02 AM - Thread Starter
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6/14/2015 Riser Build

I had all my wood delivered to my driveway from BMC here in Austin on Wednesday afternoon. $50 for delivery was way better than trying to borrow a truck from a friend to get everything back home from the local Home Depot / Lowes.

Shopping List
8 - 12' 2x8
4 - 8' 2x8
5 - 10' 2x4
9 - 4'x8' 23/32 OSB
1 Roll Roofing felt


I decided last minute that I would not be ripping the Carpet out of the media room and that I was just going to put the Stage and Riser on top. Since I was planning on using the same carpet for that was already in the room for the Stage and Riser (I have a ton left over after ripping all the carpet up the day we closed to get hardwood installed). Theater upgrade 2.0 will include better carpet, most likely darker and a lower pile.

I first worked on the Riser, I figured since this was the first time I have ever build anything like this it would be easier to do a rectangular riser rather than doing all the angles that would be required for the stage.

I used XBox one cases to keep the stage at a constant 1/4" from the walls. These actually worked really well and although I kinda messed up a few of the boxes it was worth it.

I frames the stage with 2x8s and then did 2x4 across for support. I then filled all the voids with R19 insulation (2 layers).
I put two layers of 3/4" OSB and in between the two layers I laid down roofing felt.


For some reason I can't upload photos right now, I will try to fix it shortly
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post #5 of 100 Old 06-22-2015, 11:36 AM - Thread Starter
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6/20-6/21/2015
Saturday was a rainy day here in Austin so I decided I would start work on the stage. The first day (Saturday) I spent framing it up and getting everything cut. Sunday was spent filling the voids with insulation and getting the 2 layers of OSB on the top all cut and fit together like a jig saw puzzle. This is upstairs so I got quite the workout going up and down the stairs (sometimes with the big sheets of OSB) to fine tune my cuts and fix mistakes.

I will be using the "tool" to trace out the front ledge this evening and cut the OSB to have a 1inch lip in the front. Unfortunately I did not get a picture of the tops on yet.. I will take that photo tonight
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post #6 of 100 Old 06-23-2015, 11:41 AM - Thread Starter
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6/22/2015

Yesterday I stopped by Home Depot and picked up a Jig Saw so I could cut the lip on the stage. I used the tool that everyone else seems to use to get the 1-1.25 inch lip. I took 3 2x4s and sandwiched them to look like a tuning fork and then cut a hole the size of a Sharpy 1 inch into the board. I wish I had more photos of this but there are many other threads that outline how to use it. Once I traced the pattern I cut the lip with the jig saw.

Now I need to finish up the step. The Step consists of 2x4 where as the stage is 2x8, with 2 layers of 3/4" OSB added to the 2x4 (3.5" high nominal) this will give the first step a total height of 5" where as the top of the stage will be 7.5" to the bottom of the OSB and 9" to the top. This only leaves 2.5" in between the steps for carpet. Does anyone out there that knows a thing about carpet, know how this will effect the installation? (See diagram attached)
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post #7 of 100 Old 06-23-2015, 01:59 PM
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Checking the math. Top of lower step at 5". Framing for stage is 7.5" tall. So, you have 2.5" between the top of the lower step and the bottom of the upper lip.

I see that you've already done the top lip with 2 pieces of OSB, you could have used one. That would have increased the distance to 3.25".

The installers may have difficulty getting a stapler in there to staple carpet under that lip.

One option: You could delay installing the two layers of OSB on that lower step. You could cut to size now, of course. That would give the installer more room to staple the carpet under that upper lip. Then, you would quickly nail the lower step in place so he could carpet the lower step.

My in progress build thread: The Salt Mine
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post #8 of 100 Old 06-23-2015, 03:49 PM
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good advice, I would add a couple of screws just to keep the step decking from slipping out under your foot while working on the stage. It has happened to me. Some OSB is actually waxy from whatever they put on it to resist rain and two layers can be tricky. Remove the screws on carpet day.

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post #9 of 100 Old 06-23-2015, 07:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Wow, you are right, my math was bad lol.. whoops!


Quote:
Originally Posted by RedStripe88 View Post
Checking the math. Top of lower step at 5". Framing for stage is 7.5" tall. So, you have 2.5" between the top of the lower step and the bottom of the upper lip.

I see that you've already done the top lip with 2 pieces of OSB, you could have used one. That would have increased the distance to 3.25".

The installers may have difficulty getting a stapler in there to staple carpet under that lip.

One option: You could delay installing the two layers of OSB on that lower step. You could cut to size now, of course. That would give the installer more room to staple the carpet under that upper lip. Then, you would quickly nail the lower step in place so he could carpet the lower step.
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post #10 of 100 Old 06-23-2015, 07:59 PM - Thread Starter
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good advice, I would add a couple of screws just to keep the step decking from slipping out under your foot while working on the stage. It has happened to me. Some OSB is actually waxy from whatever they put on it to resist rain and two layers can be tricky. Remove the screws on carpet day.
Thanks!

I think these are great advice.. so basically get the cuts setup and ready to go. When Carpet day comes have them do the top of the Stage and then when they are ready to do the stairs just screw in the pieces of OSB and let them do the stair.


Thanks guys!
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post #11 of 100 Old 06-24-2015, 11:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is a question, when should I get the carpet installed?
Before / After front corner bass traps?
Before or after screen wall installation?

How hard is it to install carpet my self? I don't plan on putting pad under it on the stage and riser.
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post #12 of 100 Old 06-24-2015, 01:09 PM - Thread Starter
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I have a question on corner bass traps.

I see a lot of people do OX 703, and cut each board into 8 triangles and then stack them. As it is a little difficult to find OC703 / expensive to purchase online I can get Roxul Safe and Sound at Lows http://www.lowes.com/pd_465053-1278-...pl=1&Ntt=roxul . Will this do the job? It is not as dense as the OC703

Looking at the bobgold site (if I am reading this correctly it looks as if the safe and sound is almost identical to 703 inch for inch)

PRODUCT THICKNESS DENSITY 125HZ 250HZ 500HZ 1000HZ 2000HZ 4000HZ NRC
703, plain 2" (51mm) on wall 3.0 pcf (48 kg/m3) 0.17 0.86 1.14 1.07 1.02 0.98 1.00
703, plain 3" (76mm) on wall 3.0 pcf (48 kg/m3) 0.53 1.19 1.21 1.08 1.01 1.04 1.10
Safe‘n’Sound 3" (75mm) 2.5 pcf (40 kg/m3) 0.52 0.96 1.18 1.07 1.05 1.05 1.05

Thoughts?
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Safe and Sound is a little less rigid and you may need something to keep it standing.
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post #14 of 100 Old 06-24-2015, 02:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Safe and Sound is a little less rigid and you may need something to keep it standing.
Thanks Big, I was planning on putting a frame of 2x2 around the base traps. Thanks for the info. I will go with the safe and sound!
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post #15 of 100 Old 06-26-2015, 06:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Anyone have any thoughts on when I should do the carpet?
How difficult is it to do carpet my self (just stage and riser). I have read through some threads and it looks fairly easy except the angles on the stage....



Quote:
Originally Posted by batlin27 View Post
Here is a question, when should I get the carpet installed?
Before / After front corner bass traps?
Before or after screen wall installation?

How hard is it to install carpet my self? I don't plan on putting pad under it on the stage and riser.
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post #16 of 100 Old 07-01-2015, 07:21 AM - Thread Starter
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6/25-6/26

I finished up the stage, I ended up putting two layers of OSB on the step but I only tacked them in with a few screws to make it easy to remove just in case carpet install is a PITA. I am very happy with how it came out. I went to Lowes and got a pack of Roxul Safe and Sound 3" bats for my corner base traps.

I have mocked up the base traps (see picture) and I will try to finish them up today. the most tedious part is cutting the triangle pieces of the insulation.

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The wife and I have decided to "try" and do the carpet our selves. We will see how it turns out, since we are not planning on having this carpet in the theater for more than a year or two we figured it would be a good cost savings until we can afford to get some high quality theater carpet and have it professionally installed. I am going to install the carpet first and build the bass traps and screen wall on top. I will try my best to make it modular so that when I do reinstall carpet I can do it fairly easily and dismantle only what is needed.

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post #17 of 100 Old 07-01-2015, 07:28 AM - Thread Starter
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6/30/2015

I got my GOM fabric samples in yesterday, was going over them with the wife and these are the final contenders for the side walls. The screen wall will the black

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I also got my roll of spandex in the mail.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by batlin27 View Post
I have a question on corner bass traps.

I see a lot of people do OX 703, and cut each board into 8 triangles and then stack them. As it is a little difficult to find OC703 / expensive to purchase online I can get Roxul Safe and Sound at Lows http://www.lowes.com/pd_465053-1278-...pl=1&Ntt=roxul . Will this do the job? It is not as dense as the OC703

Looking at the bobgold site (if I am reading this correctly it looks as if the safe and sound is almost identical to 703 inch for inch)

PRODUCT THICKNESS DENSITY 125HZ 250HZ 500HZ 1000HZ 2000HZ 4000HZ NRC
703, plain 2" (51mm) on wall 3.0 pcf (48 kg/m3) 0.17 0.86 1.14 1.07 1.02 0.98 1.00
703, plain 3" (76mm) on wall 3.0 pcf (48 kg/m3) 0.53 1.19 1.21 1.08 1.01 1.04 1.10
Safe‘n’Sound 3" (75mm) 2.5 pcf (40 kg/m3) 0.52 0.96 1.18 1.07 1.05 1.05 1.05

Thoughts?

I also thought is was a little difficult to find OC 703 in Austin. And finding Linacoustics is impossible. I've called every place in Austin and SPI Insulation has OC 703 in stock. If you have tried looking for linacoustic most companies are not familiar with it. You have to ask for duct liner. I found one place in austin that stocks it but you have to be HVAC certified to purchase it.
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Quote:
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I also thought is was a little difficult to find OC 703 in Austin. And finding Linacoustics is impossible. I've called every place in Austin and SPI Insulation has OC 703 in stock. If you have tried looking for linacoustic most companies are not familiar with it. You have to ask for duct liner. I found one place in austin that stocks it but you have to be HVAC certified to purchase it.
Thanks for the heads up on SPI, I will check them out, They are way down in South Austin and I wonder how their prices compare to getting it online with shipping. I figure the boxes are pretty big so it would take me several trips and with gas and time it might be worth my time to just order online. I have resided to not do Linacoustic on the front wall but just do 2" Roxul R80 as that is cheaper and easier to find online. I would do OC703 in the front but I don't like the yellow color, which would require me to cover it with fabric which is just an extra cost
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post #20 of 100 Old 07-01-2015, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batlin27 View Post
Thanks for the heads up on SPI, I will check them out, They are way down in South Austin and I wonder how their prices compare to getting it online with shipping. I figure the boxes are pretty big so it would take me several trips and with gas and time it might be worth my time to just order online. I have resided to not do Linacoustic on the front wall but just do 2" Roxul R80 as that is cheaper and easier to find online. I would do OC703 in the front but I don't like the yellow color, which would require me to cover it with fabric which is just an extra cost
I used speaker cloth to cover the rigid fiberglass on the front wall. It's relatively cheap compared to GOM and works well.

http://www.rosebrand.com/product800/...-Cloth-FR.aspx

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Theater on the Fairways

For your stage riser I did the same thing but used 2 by 10's instead of 2 by 8's the carpet guys had a really hard time trying to staple the carpet under the lip. If your going that route raise the top of the stage a little so you won't run into any problems with the carpet installation.
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post #22 of 100 Old 07-01-2015, 08:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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For your stage riser I did the same thing but used 2 by 10's instead of 2 by 8's the carpet guys had a really hard time trying to staple the carpet under the lip. If your going that route raise the top of the stage a little so you won't run into any problems with the carpet installation.
I'm kinda stuck with the 2x8s right now but I did only screw in the bottom step to keep it in place and it is easy to remove if need be. I think the biggest issue will be on the bottom step due to the floor. I am doing the carpet my self, or at least attempting so hopefully I will figure something out
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I'm sure your going to fine with what you have. If you do the carpet Hollywood style which is wrapping the lip of the stage and doing it yourself you can take your time and staple it into the wood like my carpet guys did. Your room will be great when it's all done can't wait to see your progress in your room. Its looking good!!!
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post #24 of 100 Old 07-01-2015, 09:21 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm sure your going to fine with what you have. If you do the carpet Hollywood style which is wrapping the lip of the stage and doing it yourself you can take your time and staple it into the wood like my carpet guys did. Your room will be great when it's all done can't wait to see your progress in your room. Its looking good!!!
Thank you!

I had a guy replace our stairway carpet a few weeks back and I watched him do it, It didn't look all that hard. He took one long piece of carpet and waterfalled it down and stabled... i was just going to follow what he did. If it gets too hard I have a TON of extra carpet (1500+ sqft) so I have a lot to try and retry
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post #25 of 100 Old 07-02-2015, 12:08 PM - Thread Starter
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At lunch I went down to South Austin (SPI Insulation) and filled the car with 2" JM IIG MinWool-1200 Industrial Board 1280

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PRODUCT THICKNESS DENSITY 125HZ 250HZ 500HZ 1000HZ 2000HZ 4000HZ NRC
2" (51mm) 8 pcf (128 kg/m^3) 0.32 0.90 1.11 1.07 1.01 1.05 1.00

So much cheaper than anything online even before shipping.

I still cannot find Linacoustic so I might have to use this stuff up front

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post #26 of 100 Old 07-06-2015, 08:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Carpet of Riser

7/5/2015

I spent Sunday afternoon trying my hand at installing the carpet on my riser and stage. I really figured it would be harder than it was. Don't get me wrong, it was pretty time intensive to get everything just perfect but it wasn't rocket science. I did not put any pad down as my wife and my self figured that we really didn't need pad for the locations I was carpeting. There really will not be any foot traffic on the stage and the riser will have a little foot traffic but people will be sitting down more often then not and not need the pad.

I cute the pieces out and really just methodically laid the carpet out and stapled it down with 3/4" staples. I started with the riser since it was fairly straight forward, just one corner to deal with.


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I then moved onto the stage which gave a few problems on the angles, specially the angles that were greater than 90 degrees as this required me (or actually my wife) to do some creative splicing and folding. The stage did represent a problem in the stair area (as others pointed out in my thread) so I did end up having to remove my step to carpet around it. I plan on getting the step finished this evening and be done with the carpet.

I think it turned out great and if anyone is hesitant to install their own carpet (without pad) I would recommend doing it to save some cash.

Last edited by batlin27; 07-06-2015 at 08:04 AM.
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post #27 of 100 Old 07-06-2015, 08:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Stage Carpet

Here are the photos of the stage carpeted other than the front top of the step

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post #28 of 100 Old 07-06-2015, 10:45 AM
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Wow great carpet install looks great and it looks like you didn't have any problems with that lip after taking off the osb. The room is taking shape!
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post #29 of 100 Old 07-06-2015, 11:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Wow great carpet install looks great and it looks like you didn't have any problems with that lip after taking off the osb. The room is taking shape!
Thank you!

It was still pretty tight in there with the framing for the step but I got it done. If I had to do it again though I would not have built the step until the top section was fully carpeted, I would then build the step and carpet.
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post #30 of 100 Old 07-06-2015, 11:06 AM
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I bet you can see the end coming soon for you! It's exciting when the carpet is in and the seats are in place! What's next on the list for the room.
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