Javery's NJ Theater - finally started! - Page 18 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #511 of 742 Old 08-10-2017, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by texpilot View Post
For perspective, could you please share your primary seating position distance from eye to screen? Thanks.
My first row is about 11 to 12 foot from a 165" 16:9 second row is about 17 to 18. I sit in them equally but the picture is still great from the first row. I can see the weave if I strain super hard and that's only on the brightest scenes.

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post #512 of 742 Old 08-10-2017, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by hd0823 View Post
My first row is about 11 to 12 foot from a 165" 16:9 second row is about 17 to 18. I sit in them equally but the picture is still great from the first row. I can see the weave if I strain super hard and that's only on the brightest scenes.

Thanks for the info. With our prime seats at just 9.5' distance, we could see the weave on XD on bright scenes without even trying. I want to be sure I don't see it or it will drive me crazy. Everyone's tolerance to it is different though.
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post #513 of 742 Old 08-10-2017, 02:53 PM
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Yeah, I get that different materials have different gains, but I just thought the screen material would not be as big a factor as the amount of light lost through the weave of the screen. I am going to be about 9-9.5' feet back from a 125-135" 16:9 screen (or maybe someone will convince me to go with a 2.35 format) and I am concerned about seeing the weave on the XD material vs the UF, but I would like to be able to light up the speakers behind the screen. I don't remember if it was in this thread or the other one floating around here this week about screen materials where someone said that you can't light up speakers behind the UF material.

Also, isn't there a loss of detail on a looser weave from a 4k (or e-shfit) projector)? Don't you lose some of the pixels through the weave?
Seymourav is really help and large samples are cheap. You can buy linear feet of each material and decide which one you like. A lot of it is personal preference. I strongly prefer the UF material.
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post #514 of 742 Old 08-10-2017, 03:14 PM
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Has anyone tried Elunevision screens I heard they are pricey but you can hardly see the weave from up close.
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post #515 of 742 Old 08-10-2017, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Bulldogger View Post
Seymourav is really help and large samples are cheap. You can buy linear feet of each material and decide which one you like. A lot of it is personal preference. I strongly prefer the UF material.
I'm also totally satisfied with UF. I'm a little under 10' away and I figured why risk it if I can't tell the difference in the picture. I think really only the most discerning people will notice the difference in performance between the two. If it's going into a dedicated theater or light-controlled room I think either is a winner. Plus once it goes in you'll lose all basis for comparison unless you currently have a theater setup and have a good "feel" for how it should look. All else being equal, I would tell anyone who has even a small worry about seeing the weave to go with UF.
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post #516 of 742 Old 08-10-2017, 07:16 PM
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Has anyone tried Elunevision screens I heard they are pricey but you can hardly see the weave from up close.
I've seen an Elunevision AT screen, it was 130'' 2.35:1, and I was about 11 feet away.
It looked real good.
I'm considering a 150'' Elunevision reference 4K AT 2.35:1 screen and I will be 14 feet on the first row and 20.5 feet on the 2nd row.
I didn't find it too bad price wise especially comparing it to Stewart and Draper etc...

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post #517 of 742 Old 08-11-2017, 07:40 AM - Thread Starter
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OK shifting gears a bit - are there real benefits to cutting holes in the riser for vents? I'm not even sure what a "bass trap" is but I see it get talked about a lot around here. Basically, I have 3 vents that I ordered that are each 4" wide by 36" long. I can fit 2 of them on the sides of the riser and one in between the columns along the back wall. This would obviously create an opening in the riser (which is stuffed with pink insulation and has some wires that run to various places in the room for speakers, electricity, etc.).

Is this something that I should do?
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post #518 of 742 Old 08-11-2017, 08:03 AM
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OK shifting gears a bit - are there real benefits to cutting holes in the riser for vents? I'm not even sure what a "bass trap" is but I see it get talked about a lot around here. Basically, I have 3 vents that I ordered that are each 4" wide by 36" long. I can fit 2 of them on the sides of the riser and one in between the columns along the back wall. This would obviously create an opening in the riser (which is stuffed with pink insulation and has some wires that run to various places in the room for speakers, electricity, etc.).

Is this something that I should do?

How tall is your riser? Taller is more effective, as are large openings, along the boundary walls and in corners if possible. If you already ordered the vents, no reason not to do it.

Later on you could test their effectiveness using Room EQ Wizard, testing first with them as-is, then again with the vents covered. You're already 95% of the way there having stuffed the riser with pink fluffy ... about the worst that can happen I'd bet is to find out it didn't really justify the price of the vents.

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post #519 of 742 Old 08-11-2017, 08:24 AM - Thread Starter
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How tall is your riser? Taller is more effective, as are large openings, along the boundary walls and in corners if possible. If you already ordered the vents, no reason not to do it.

Later on you could test their effectiveness using Room EQ Wizard, testing first with them as-is, then again with the vents covered. You're already 95% of the way there having stuffed the riser with pink fluffy ... about the worst that can happen I'd bet is to find out it didn't really justify the price of the vents.
My riser is about 13" tall if I had to guess - 2x12 frame and then another 1.5" for the two layers of plywood. Maybe a little taller if you count the eventual carpet pad and carpet. I cannot get the side vents in the back corner as I had originally planned due to the location of the sump pump hatch. The side vents would have to go behind the columns along towards the back but end up about 3' from the corner. The rear vent would be no problem.

I will paint the vents black so they would blend right in but I'm wondering if it is worth the effort. What does this actually do to the sound in the room? I have no reference point as I've never been in a properly calibrated home theater.
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post #520 of 742 Old 08-12-2017, 03:52 AM
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I will paint the vents black so they would blend right in but I'm wondering if it is worth the effort. What does this actually do to the sound in the room? I have no reference point as I've never been in a properly calibrated home theater.
Obtaining an even level of Bass at each frequency at each seating location can be difficult. Frequencies from about 200 Hz and down interact with your room to create interference patterns or standing waves. The purpose of bass trapping is to absorb some of that bass energy in the room so that it interferes less with the direct wave coming from the speaker, or subwoofer. Unfortunately it takes a very large amount of absorptive material to have a measurable improvement. By using the large volume inside the riser and cutting many vents into it you have a chance of reducing those standing waves.
Saying that, before and after measurements of rooms with substantial absorptive bass trapping do not generally show a very impressive difference.
Regardless, setting your riser up as a bass trap reduces the likelihood that it is going to act as a giant, empty plywood drum.
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post #521 of 742 Old 08-12-2017, 04:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Obtaining an even level of Bass at each frequency at each seating location can be difficult. Frequencies from about 200 Hz and down interact with your room to create interference patterns or standing waves. The purpose of bass trapping is to absorb some of that bass energy in the room so that it interferes less with the direct wave coming from the speaker, or subwoofer. Unfortunately it takes a very large amount of absorptive material to have a measurable improvement. By using the large volume inside the riser and cutting many vents into it you have a chance of reducing those standing waves.

Saying that, before and after measurements of rooms with substantial absorptive bass trapping do not generally show a very impressive difference.

Regardless, setting your riser up as a bass trap reduces the likelihood that it is going to act as a giant, empty plywood drum.


Thank you! That last sentence seems like the key for me - even if it doesn't actually help all that much in terms of sound I might as well cut the holes just in case. To say there is a lot of information out there on this topic is a giant understatement!
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post #522 of 742 Old 08-14-2017, 08:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Alright - productive weekend. Friday night - prime. Saturday - first coat. Sunday - second coat. Took about 4 hours per coat (primer was quicker) which was WAY longer than I had thought. Turns out the trim tacked on to the wall panels has a ton of edges and getting a nice even layer of paint took a lot of patience. It came out fantastic though so I'm glad I spent the extra time.

I did not prime the moulding or the baseboard because those were pre-primed. The white primer (Kilz) was tinted with black paint just like the ceiling.









I didn't take a lot of pics of this part because it's pretty boring but I did have to break out the painter's tape for the first time. Even though everything is getting black paint I didn't want to be sloppy around the column edges - the columns looked very nice rolled on already and I didn't want to introduce brush strokes if I didn't have to. It worked OK but I still needed to touch up in a few spots.
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post #523 of 742 Old 08-14-2017, 09:59 AM - Thread Starter
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So this is where we got to by the end of the day yesterday.



There is still quite a bit of touch-up to do pretty much everywhere - all of the nail holes in the trim have been filled and sanded but we need to paint over them. We actually started on the chair rail and it is coming out very nice. The black paint just blends right into itself and that M1 additive makes the brush strokes just disappear.

Here are some shots going around the room:

















And here are some other random shots - I need to figure out how to take better iPhone pics!







Overall it looks fantastic. I can't believe this is actually a room in my house. Next up is touch-up and painting the double doors black in anticipation of the treatments. I also have to really get going on speaker assembly. I have everything I need to build the 1099s - I just need to find the time!

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post #524 of 742 Old 08-14-2017, 12:15 PM
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WOW looks amazing and I know we have seen these colours in our builds but your ceiling sets you apart from the others. You and your wife must be getting very excited to see it at this stage now.

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post #525 of 742 Old 08-14-2017, 12:39 PM
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Very nice, it is sure taking shape.
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post #526 of 742 Old 08-14-2017, 05:54 PM
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Our theaters look alike! Great looking, excellent job.hehe
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post #527 of 742 Old 08-14-2017, 06:38 PM
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Looking fantastic Javery!!! What paint and sheen did you go with? I saw you used Kilz primer -- which one (they have several varieties)?

Whatever you used definitely looks like a formula for success!!!! Great work, inspiring to see.
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post #528 of 742 Old 08-15-2017, 05:01 AM
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Very nice work, looks classy.
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post #529 of 742 Old 08-15-2017, 06:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mahuzz13 View Post
WOW looks amazing and I know we have seen these colours in our builds but your ceiling sets you apart from the others. You and your wife must be getting very excited to see it at this stage now.
Thanks - we are very excited. She has major project fatigue and wants this to be finished a month ago. I'm a little more patient but I'm nearing the end of my rope as well. This has been all-consuming for most of 2017. Research, orders, research, managing contractors, research, building speakers - never mind we are also doing 1/2 the work ourselves! Seems like every weekend we could be at the beach but instead we are in the basement working...

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Very nice, it is sure taking shape.
Thanks - getting the room painted really brought everything together.

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https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attach...1&d=1502758740

Our theaters look alike! Great looking, excellent job.hehe
Thanks - your theater looks very nice too. Classic red and black AVS color scheme. Can't go wrong!

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Looking fantastic Javery!!! What paint and sheen did you go with? I saw you used Kilz primer -- which one (they have several varieties)?

Whatever you used definitely looks like a formula for success!!!! Great work, inspiring to see.
Thanks!

I believe it was the "original" Kilz - the red can. It is the latex primer/sealer. The paint was Benjamin Moore Regal in Black with an Eggshell finish. It is a little reflective when the lights are on but only where the light hits the moulding and it's not noticeable unless you are looking for it - the walls are still very dark. I didn't want to go with a matte finish purely for aesthetics.

I'm no expert painter although I've probably logged hundreds of hours in my life at this point. The black looks great. It went on relatively smooth and contrary to popular belief I think it actually hides a lot of imperfections. If I shine a flashlight on it you can still see the roller nap on the wall but with the lights on everything blends together making it look nice and smooth - I have very good eyesight and I seem to notice every minor imperfection (and complain about them according to my wife ) and I'm very happy with how it all came out.

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Very nice work, looks classy.
Thanks - it is so weird because the rest of my house is definitely NOT done in this style. Well, we have crown moulding everywhere but the color scheme is much more neutral. Even the adjacent room is very different - it may look a little strange if we leave the double doors open. I love it though - it really seems like I'm not in my house when I'm in the theater room. It seems special - like I'm at the movies!
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post #530 of 742 Old 08-15-2017, 07:07 AM
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@javeryh , on the double doors, how are you addressing losing sound out of them. I take it they will be solid core doors, but what else are you doing. I have gone back and forth on whether to install double doors at the back of the room or have an entrance from the side. The double doors would be nice when we are entertaining for a sports game like a super bowl and we would leave them open.

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post #531 of 742 Old 08-15-2017, 07:20 AM - Thread Starter
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@javeryh , on the double doors, how are you addressing losing sound out of them. I take it they will be solid core doors, but what else are you doing. I have gone back and forth on whether to install double doors at the back of the room or have an entrance from the side. The double doors would be nice when we are entertaining for a sports game like a super bowl and we would leave them open.
This was the one compromise for my room for exactly the reason you described. I want to leave the doors open when entertaining for football games. I know one compromise is all it takes to go against a lot of the soundproofing efforts but me and the wife just couldn't get past the single door making the theater room into a "dungeon" with no flow into the adjacent room (the only other room in my basement that's only 11'x12').

The doors are both solid core and 1-3/4" thick so that helps. They were the thickest we could order without going custom which would have been crazy expensive. We are treating them the exact same way we treated the walls. 1" thick panels filled with linacoustic and wrapped in fabric on the top 1/2 and MDF panels on the bottom 1/2 with chair rail and wainscoting and baseboard to make it look like part of the walls as best we can. The only difference is that I think we have to wrap the fabric panel in trim on the edges to hide staples.

I'm not 100% sure how this is going to work yet but that's the plan. I also think maybe my contractor forgot about this part otherwise I think he would have done it already. He will be by tomorrow so we will have to talk about it... and that means I have to put two coats of black paint on both doors when I get home from work tonight!
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Quote:
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This was the one compromise for my room for exactly the reason you described. I want to leave the doors open when entertaining for football games. I know one compromise is all it takes to go against a lot of the soundproofing efforts but me and the wife just couldn't get past the single door making the theater room into a "dungeon" with no flow into the adjacent room (the only other room in my basement that's only 11'x12').

The doors are both solid core and 1-3/4" thick so that helps. They were the thickest we could order without going custom which would have been crazy expensive. We are treating them the exact same way we treated the walls. 1" thick panels filled with linacoustic and wrapped in fabric on the top 1/2 and MDF panels on the bottom 1/2 with chair rail and wainscoting and baseboard to make it look like part of the walls as best we can. The only difference is that I think we have to wrap the fabric panel in trim on the edges to hide staples.

I'm not 100% sure how this is going to work yet but that's the plan. I also think maybe my contractor forgot about this part otherwise I think he would have done it already. He will be by tomorrow so we will have to talk about it... and that means I have to put two coats of black paint on both doors when I get home from work tonight!

Thank you for the quick response. My basement is very large and totally unfinished. We have a large 4 bedroom, 2.5 bath ranch on the main level that is over 2500 sqft and we have that same footprint in the basement. I am looking to finish roughly 1500 to 1600 of that. I go back in forth on what I want for the room. right now I have it temporary set up for a 14'x26'x9' HT, but could go 17'26'x9' or 21'x26'x9'. the last one would be really cool, but have to work around a beam and a column. I think I have that figured out maybe. When I box in the beam I could make another faux boxed beam to match it and go with a coffered ceiling. The thought is to go with one row of 6 seats and then a bar behind it with 6 bar stools. I think 6 theater chairs is the right number and don't think I would many more then that over to watch a movie and the bar would be great for movies or sporting events. There also be enough room bring in extra chairs if needed. The only issue is I have a 120" 16:9 screen and it would make since to go bigger and to an AT scope screen. The bar/game room next to the HT that you have to go through to get to it is like 18'x32'. Attached is an idea I am working on now. It would just be a big area to soundproof.
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post #533 of 742 Old 08-15-2017, 08:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank you for the quick response. My basement is very large and totally unfinished. We have a large 4 bedroom, 2.5 bath ranch on the main level that is over 2500 sqft and we have that same footprint in the basement. I am looking to finish roughly 1500 to 1600 of that. I go back in forth on what I want for the room. right now I have it temporary set up for a 14'x26'x9' HT, but could go 17'26'x9' or 21'x26'x9'. the last one would be really cool, but have to work around a beam and a column. I think I have that figured out maybe. When I box in the beam I could make another faux boxed beam to match it and go with a coffered ceiling. The thought is to go with one row of 6 seats and then a bar behind it with 6 bar stools. I think 6 theater chairs is the right number and don't think I would many more then that over to watch a movie and the bar would be great for movies or sporting events. There also be enough room bring in extra chairs if needed. The only issue is I have a 120" 16:9 screen and it would make since to go bigger and to an AT scope screen. The bar/game room next to the HT that you have to go through to get to it is like 18'x32'. Attached is an idea I am working on now. It would just be a big area to soundproof.
Wow. I am super-jealous of all of that space! Another reason why I'm a moron for living right outside NYC. My house is a shoebox. I like your layout - seems like you are planning to entertain a lot. One thing I wrestled with during my design phase was what exactly I was trying to accomplish - I also wanted to entertain and almost built a media room lined with arcade cabinets, shuffleboard, etc. but ultimately decided that 99% of the time it would just be me and the family utilizing the space so I went for the dedicated room. The times we do have friends over we will likely be entertaining upstairs unless they came over specifically to watch a movie. I wish I had more space!

Anyway, I'm rambling but one project around here that your design reminded me of is The Getaway Theater. You might be able to steal an idea or two.
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post #534 of 742 Old 08-15-2017, 10:34 AM
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If I shine a flashlight on it you can still see the roller nap on the wall but with the lights on everything blends together making it look nice and smooth - I have very good eyesight and I seem to notice every minor imperfection (and complain about them according to my wife ) and I'm very happy with how it all came out.



Thanks - it is so weird because the rest of my house is definitely NOT done in this style. Well, we have crown moulding everywhere but the color scheme is much more neutral. Even the adjacent room is very different - it may look a little strange if we leave the double doors open. I love it though - it really seems like I'm not in my house when I'm in the theater room. It seems special - like I'm at the movies!
That's what happens when you pour time, money and effort into such a project-you see every detail! IMO, what separates a media room from a home theater is that sense of aesthetic separation from the rest of the house. You can't "escape" to the movies unless there is separation;-)
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post #535 of 742 Old 08-15-2017, 11:08 AM
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Wow. I am super-jealous of all of that space! Another reason why I'm a moron for living right outside NYC. My house is a shoebox. I like your layout - seems like you are planning to entertain a lot. One thing I wrestled with during my design phase was what exactly I was trying to accomplish - I also wanted to entertain and almost built a media room lined with arcade cabinets, shuffleboard, etc. but ultimately decided that 99% of the time it would just be me and the family utilizing the space so I went for the dedicated room. The times we do have friends over we will likely be entertaining upstairs unless they came over specifically to watch a movie. I wish I had more space!

Anyway, I'm rambling but one project around here that your design reminded me of is The Getaway Theater. You might be able to steal an idea or two.
Thanks for the link to the Get Away Theater. I may look into seeing what it would cost to move the column in my room. If I could move it, that would open up a way cooler plan maybe. I will keep checking your build.

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post #536 of 742 Old 08-15-2017, 01:42 PM
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Thanks for the link to the Get Away Theater. I may look into seeing what it would cost to move the column in my room. If I could move it, that would open up a way cooler plan maybe. I will keep checking your build.
I had a column moved 5' over and the beam reinforced to support the new load. I went from have a 12'w room to opening it up to 17' what difference, it allowed me to spin the whole HT design so I also a deeper room from 18' to 23'l. Send me a PM so I can get your email if you want pictures, I don't high jack this thread.
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post #537 of 742 Old 08-16-2017, 08:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Super exciting update. The doors are black! Last night after work I threw on a quick coat of paint to prep for the door treatments. I still have to paint the inside edge of the jamb as you can see. We are going to build 1" thick panels on the doors to match the walls - red fabric, linacoustic, chair rail, MDF, wainscoting and baseboard - so most of this will eventually be hidden.





We are working in the theater today. The goal is to line the area behind the screen with linacoustic and then line the back wall with acoustic tiles. We are also hooking up the surrounds and stuffing the columns with insulation so they should be complete and cutting the three holes in the riser for vents/bass trap.

Also, we are thinking of making the projector box panel a little fancier - right now it is just a panel similar to the column panels (a frame with black fabric stapled on the inside). My contractor wants to add a thin MDF panel behind the fabric where the projector lens will be and then drill a hole for the lens, staple the fabric and add a grommet ring or something to finish it off. I'm not sure how this will work... I'm also not sure of the air flow situation but I guess I'll find out. He seems really against being able to see inside the projector box and if this will make the room prettier than I'm all for it.

Next on my list is ordering the lights for the steps. I haven't even looked at these yet but I don't want anything fancy. We are chipping away at this little by little but the details are adding up.

Last edited by javeryh; 08-16-2017 at 08:58 AM.
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post #538 of 742 Old 08-16-2017, 08:33 AM
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I probably missed it, but did you get wide hinges so that your door panels don't hit? Which ones did you end up with? Did you replace it on the existing jamb or is it all custom?
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post #539 of 742 Old 08-16-2017, 11:14 AM - Thread Starter
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I probably missed it, but did you get wide hinges so that your door panels don't hit? Which ones did you end up with? Did you replace it on the existing jamb or is it all custom?
I didn't do anything special for the door. Once the panels are built they will stick out about an inch from the rest of the wall.
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post #540 of 742 Old 08-16-2017, 05:21 PM
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wow, javery, your room looks amazing!

I am gonna have to carve out some time and go through the whole thread.

great job!
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