The Cincitucky Theater - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 8Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #31 of 67 Old 02-11-2016, 11:48 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Cincitucky
Posts: 55
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Thanks guys, I got some work done this week. I have one of the rear side soffits up but I am waiting on my electrician to come look at relocating the smoke detector on the other side before I move forward with the soffit on that side. I also cut into the wall where I plan to place my in wall AV rack and to my surprise I found that in that location I have 23 1/2" of space between the studs. I guess because of the stiars being behind that wall they framed it differently which is good news for me as I wont have to remove any studs to fit the shelves in there.

I'll get some pictures up this weekend.

In other news I ordered my projector and it should be here tomorrow. I decided to go with the Sony VPL-HW40ES so I will be playing around with that this weekend to determine a mounting location. I also ordered a new case and hard drive for my HTPC so I will be upgrading that this weekend and playing around with Plex. I've been using Windows Media Center on Win 7 and My Movies to organize my collection but Plex looks to have a lot of features and flexibility so I'm excited to play around with it.
Newt1822 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #32 of 67 Old 02-12-2016, 12:06 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Killeen, Texas
Posts: 143
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 30 Post(s)
Liked: 7
Nice pictures, Newt1822. Yes sound proofing the walls may be a good decision.

Ashley HomeStore
ashleyjohn is offline  
post #33 of 67 Old 02-17-2016, 10:50 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Cincitucky
Posts: 55
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Some progress this week The soffits above the seating area are now framed. Bottom panels are just up temporarily, once the guy doing my electric work comes I will take them off so he can wire the recessed lights and I can cut out the holes for the cans.








Once all the electrical work is done and I run the flex conduit I will be ready to start hanging drywall. Until then I plan to work on the AV rack (or shelf as that's what it really is). Since I don't have a lot of audio equipment I don't need a ton of space. This is my design that I plan to use, it's 19" wide x 36" tall. This gives me room for the only two pieces of equipment I have now which is my Sony AVR and my HTPC which is in a case that is the same size as my AVR. The top shelves I have no plans for but could house a Blu Ray player, although I have a Blu Ray drive in my HTPC so I don't know that I need a dedicated player. The bottom self I plan to add a wall plate with an outlet and HDMI as well as other AV connections connected to the AVR so that a gaming console or over device can be easily plugged in. The only gaming console we have now is a Wii U and I plan to keep it connected to the TV in the other room in the basement, but this will make it easy to bring it into the HT room and connect it to the AVR. The only issue is the sensor bar. I'd like to get a spare sensor bar with a long enough cord to run through the conduit to behind the screen and mount it it somewhere on the screen wall. Has anyone don this with a Wii? Do they make them with cords long enough or can the cord be modified?

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1871.jpg
Views:	575
Size:	70.5 KB
ID:	1260145   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1872.JPG
Views:	578
Size:	298.4 KB
ID:	1260153   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1873.jpg
Views:	582
Size:	66.3 KB
ID:	1260161   Click image for larger version

Name:	AV Rack.jpg
Views:	586
Size:	113.6 KB
ID:	1260217  
Newt1822 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #34 of 67 Old 02-17-2016, 01:12 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
kmhvball's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mason, Ohio
Posts: 1,122
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 569 Post(s)
Liked: 337
I don't know how well they work, and I haven't really looked into it much, but I think there are wireless sensor bars...

I spent just a few minutes looking on Amazon, and here is one that states 25 feet away, 4 star rating... to be clear, I have never used one, so, no personal endorsement

http://www.amazon.com/Nyko-Wireless-...ess+sensor+bar

Last edited by kmhvball; 02-17-2016 at 03:06 PM. Reason: added amazon link
kmhvball is offline  
post #35 of 67 Old 02-26-2016, 07:23 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Cincitucky
Posts: 55
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 20
This weekend I'm working on running the speaker wire and AV cables around the room. I have the wire for the front speakers and subs ran to a location behind the screen wall. I need to determine the surround speaker locations. I am wiring for 7.1 and using the diagram below as a guide.



The surround back left speaker is limited by the door in the back of the room but at 2'9" from the side wall it is just in the 135 degree range. The side speakers I have set at 90 degrees from the seating location. I not real certain on how high they should be, I've read 2 to 3 feet above ear level. Right now I have them set at just over 5 feet.

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Speaker-Positions-Full.png
Views:	597
Size:	32.7 KB
ID:	1281001   Click image for larger version

Name:	Surround Speaker Locations.jpg
Views:	568
Size:	287.3 KB
ID:	1281009  
Newt1822 is offline  
post #36 of 67 Old 02-27-2016, 04:28 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Cincitucky
Posts: 55
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Made some progress today, all the speaker wire is in place, HDMI cable is ran, the wiring for the projector outlet is in and flex conduit has been run to both the front of the room and the projector.

I did have an "oops" moment though, when I cut the hole in the wall for the AV rack I forgot to check exactly where the stairs cut into the space. From the very beginning I had planned to cut the hole from under the stairs into the room just to avoid this very mistake, but at the last minute, I had it all marked up on the wall the way I wanted it and decided to cut from inside the room into the stairs. Big mistake! So I guess I'll be adding a piece of drywall there to patch that area up.







Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1890.jpg
Views:	530
Size:	143.4 KB
ID:	1282793   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1889.jpg
Views:	547
Size:	46.8 KB
ID:	1282801   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1887.JPG
Views:	537
Size:	255.6 KB
ID:	1282809   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1885.jpg
Views:	537
Size:	107.1 KB
ID:	1282817  
Newt1822 is offline  
post #37 of 67 Old 03-19-2016, 03:14 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Cincitucky
Posts: 55
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 20
I'm getting the last of the drywall hung, but I've now run into an issue that I did not account for when building the new wall. At the point where the new wall meets the existing wall there is a sewer pipe from the upper floors. Originally this wall was still covered when I built the new wall but when I was rehanging the drywall on the ceiling I ended up taking out the old drywall on this section of the wall to make the ceiling easier to hang and since the section to the left of it was needing to be rehung anyway from where the old wall was. Now my problem is I can not screw the the drywall to anything where it meets the new wall in the corner. I was thinking I could just add a stud next to the pipe and attach the drywall there leaving a few inches of drywall unsecured to the corner. Would this be sufficient or should I build some sort of bump out over the pipe with a 2x6 perhaps? I'm just concerned that the corner will pull out or crack if not secured close enough to the edge.



Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1916.JPG
Views:	499
Size:	92.6 KB
ID:	1324729   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1908_2.jpg
Views:	502
Size:	179.8 KB
ID:	1324801  
Newt1822 is offline  
post #38 of 67 Old 03-19-2016, 03:41 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 9,320
Mentioned: 127 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2205 Post(s)
Liked: 925
I`d do a small bump out. It won`t be seen, with the front AT wall anyways.
Tedd is offline  
post #39 of 67 Old 03-19-2016, 06:34 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
kmhvball's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mason, Ohio
Posts: 1,122
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 569 Post(s)
Liked: 337
I might go the other way and just butt a stud up against the pipe.... if you look at the soundproofingcompany website, where they illustrate clips and channel, there is I think about 6" between the last channel and the intersecting wall...
kmhvball is offline  
post #40 of 67 Old 03-19-2016, 06:36 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
kmhvball's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mason, Ohio
Posts: 1,122
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 569 Post(s)
Liked: 337
I might go the other way and just butt a stud up against the pipe.... if you look at the soundproofingcompany website, where they illustrate clips and channel, there is I think about 6" between the last channel and the intersecting wall...

I think there are inside corner drywall pieces as well that could help solidify.
kmhvball is offline  
post #41 of 67 Old 04-25-2016, 04:11 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Cincitucky
Posts: 55
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 20
It's been a while since I've posted an update, I now have all the drywall hung and finished. (Woohoo!) So I now have a blank canvass to work with, the only problem is I'm still undecided on paint colors. I want the room to be functional when the lights are off and the projector comes on, but I don't want a black hole of a room either. I still want it to look nice when the lights are on. I'm sure everyone has struggled with this decision. I've been looking at Blacks and Grays, Blues, even some greens. I'm not a huge fan of red, Greens I like but I already have a lot of green in my house. I've found some blues I like but still I haven't found anything that just jumps out at me. It will be two weeks or so before I have time to get back to the room and begin priming so I have some time to decide.





Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1959.jpg
Views:	453
Size:	63.5 KB
ID:	1404074   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1960.JPG
Views:	461
Size:	246.0 KB
ID:	1404082   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1963.JPG
Views:	461
Size:	262.0 KB
ID:	1404090  
Newt1822 is offline  
post #42 of 67 Old 05-19-2016, 08:18 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Cincitucky
Posts: 55
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Time for some updates. I had some time while waiting for my electrician to be available to finish the electrical work, he just needed to make the final connections on the circuit and install the cans. So last week I decided to move forward with painting the room. Priming and painting went well once I decided on a color, I ended up going with Valspar Ocean Storm which is a dark grey that sometimes looks like a dark green (to me anyway) I painted the walls and ceiling the same color.






This week my electrician came and all went well until he cut the holes for the front two cans where I had planned to put eyeball lights in to light up the screen. The first hole cut, no problem, the second hole cut and there's a heating duct in the way. I don't know how I missed this when mapping out the light locations on the ceiling, we had the wires ran and in place before I finished hanging the drywall and didn't notice this piece of duct work in the way. So this is a big goof up, but now I have to come up with a plan. I thought about using some LED surface mount lights that fit inside a junction box, the only problem is i now have a 6 inch hole so how do I put a 4" junction box there? I could do use some plywood to fill in the hole and hold the junction box and the surface mount LED would cover the plywood and the hole. However these lights would just be down lights and not directed at the screen. I have not been able to find an eyeball or gimbal style light that would fit. Then I started thinking more about an idea Ted gave me early in the project about using track lighting in this space in front of the soffit o light the screen and would be hidden from view from the seating area by the soffit. I think this is the way I'm going to go, the wiring is already there, it would have to be relocated closer to the soffit. The 6 inch holes will need to be patched and painted, which does not make me happy in the least but it is what it is at this point.

And here it is, mistake of the year for me!!





Here are some pics of the rest of the room with the lights in and working.





Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1992.JPG
Views:	444
Size:	149.8 KB
ID:	1448226   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1993.JPG
Views:	443
Size:	144.5 KB
ID:	1448234   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2001.JPG
Views:	643
Size:	193.8 KB
ID:	1448242   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2002.JPG
Views:	445
Size:	137.1 KB
ID:	1448250   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2005.JPG
Views:	439
Size:	143.9 KB
ID:	1448258  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2007.JPG
Views:	446
Size:	214.8 KB
ID:	1448266   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2008.JPG
Views:	447
Size:	170.8 KB
ID:	1448274  

Last edited by Newt1822; 05-19-2016 at 08:35 PM.
Newt1822 is offline  
post #43 of 67 Old 05-19-2016, 09:26 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
RTROSE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: South Central Indiana
Posts: 6,705
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 201 Post(s)
Liked: 176
Sorry to hear about the miscalculation on the hole. It happens though, sounds like the track lighting is the way to go. I don't think mixing two different types of lighting would look very good or serve it's purpose so plan B is a good plan.

I love the color you picked, not bat cave dark, but better than the standard light beige, creams that tend to get plastered all over the walls.

Regards,

RTROSE

My (slower than molasses) HT build here.
Now a Certified Carpet Counselor and Plumbing Counselor (Self given titles - pay no attention).
Enjoying my "almost done" theater.
RTROSE is offline  
post #44 of 67 Old 05-20-2016, 06:23 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 9,320
Mentioned: 127 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2205 Post(s)
Liked: 925
I wonder if these dimmable LED spots might be a solution? How much room is there between the duct and the backside of the drywall?


http://www.liteline.com/SLM4


The LED light is 1/2" tall, and there's a wiring box that gets tucked up into the ceiling, that holds the transformer. That box is1/5" tall and 3.5 x 4.5".


I am recessing a row of them in between the joists, sort of a trough light. Which kind of makes me wonder if you needed a little extra depth for the
wiring box, could you simply run a plank of wood or even drywall, and create the reverse of the trough light I am doing? There also is a 60" extension wire
available, so the box could be moved further over, perhaps to the other light hole where there's no duct.


http://www.liteline.com/product_spec_sheet/SLM4-S.pdf


Or there may be some thin LED solutions spots out there.


The room is looking rather nice. I too really like the color. There are some home theaters out there that mix lighting and the screen spots can often be very different.
Some higher end design firms really do different things with lighting and make a bold and "edgier" statement with lighting and really emphasize it. So maybe the goof up
is simply an opportunity to do something a little bit unique?
Tedd is offline  
post #45 of 67 Old 05-20-2016, 12:46 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Cincitucky
Posts: 55
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
I wonder if these dimmable LED spots might be a solution? How much room is there between the duct and the backside of the drywall?


http://www.liteline.com/SLM4


The LED light is 1/2" tall, and there's a wiring box that gets tucked up into the ceiling, that holds the transformer. That box is1/5" tall and 3.5 x 4.5".


I am recessing a row of them in between the joists, sort of a trough light. Which kind of makes me wonder if you needed a little extra depth for the
wiring box, could you simply run a plank of wood or even drywall, and create the reverse of the trough light I am doing? There also is a 60" extension wire
available, so the box could be moved further over, perhaps to the other light hole where there's no duct.


http://www.liteline.com/product_spec_sheet/SLM4-S.pdf


Or there may be some thin LED solutions spots out there.


The room is looking rather nice. I too really like the color. There are some home theaters out there that mix lighting and the screen spots can often be very different.
Some higher end design firms really do different things with lighting and make a bold and "edgier" statement with lighting and really emphasize it. So maybe the goof up
is simply an opportunity to do something a little bit unique?

The wiring box wouldn't be a problem, those lights would fit in the space but I would still have to put something in the hole to support the light since the current hole is 6" and those lights are 4". Also they would not be directional like the eyeball lights.

I admit when you previously mentioned the track lights I didn't give it a lot of thought, I just went with the eyeball lights idea, but now that i'm looking at the track lights it seems more appealing to me. I like that I can add/remove lights and adjust them exactly how I want. My room is 12' wide, I think i'm going to put an 8' track in front of the soffit and put 3 or 4 heads on it.
Newt1822 is offline  
post #46 of 67 Old 05-20-2016, 07:33 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 9,320
Mentioned: 127 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2205 Post(s)
Liked: 925
Well, it's drywall and highly repairable....


Either use clips to host a 6" round piece of drywall, or simply do some thin plywood in behind, and attach with drywall screws.

Track lighting isn't exactly mainstream home theater, although I've seen a couple or them that work it in. Pretty easy to dismiss the idea
and I would never have even considered/suggested it way back, except for a nice little DE design, that tucked it up in front of a valance
similar to what you have.
Tedd is offline  
post #47 of 67 Old 05-31-2016, 11:10 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Cincitucky
Posts: 55
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 20
This weekend I managed to get the AV rack done and painted, also put the door in place. The AV rack still needs some touch up on the trim, it's only going to hold my AVR and HTPC as of now. I plan to leave the bottom area open and add an AV connection panel with HDMI and component AV connections for hooking up an Xbox or other console or anything else I may want to connect temporarily. I'm not really satisfied with the black paint I used for it. It's Lowes Furniture paint which I thought would be a good choice but it seems that everything that touches it leaves a mark. I used MDF for the box and the shelves , I put a strip of molding on the front of the shelves to hide the cut edge of the MDF. I may decide to remake the shelves out of real wood at a later time but for now this will do.





Newt1822 is offline  
post #48 of 67 Old 05-31-2016, 01:15 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Cincitucky
Posts: 55
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Also, I'm looking for some feedback on the trim around the AV rack. Before I begin painting the baseboards and door trim I need to decide if I want to stick with the same color for both the walls and trim. I was trying to go for the look of the room below but i think i'm missing the mark. It looks to me like they used the same color for the trim as they did for the walls, but maybe i'm wrong, maybe it's a shade darker or perhaps a different finish (eggshell on the walls, semi gloss on the trim?) Now i'm thinking maybe I should go with a darker grey on the trim perhaps, or something different that the walls. I don't think I want black though. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Newt1822 is offline  
post #49 of 67 Old 06-01-2016, 06:32 AM
Advanced Member
 
Aberk's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NNW Atl Burbs
Posts: 807
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 292 Post(s)
Liked: 188
I think the trim in the pic above is a bit darker and has a bit of gloss to it compared to the wall.

I went with a flat black and couldn't be happier.
Aberk is offline  
post #50 of 67 Old 06-01-2016, 10:34 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
kmhvball's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mason, Ohio
Posts: 1,122
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 569 Post(s)
Liked: 337
I would probably do a slightly darker shade of your wall color family, and probably a higher 'sheen'... door trim in particular can be touched a lot, and nice if the paint is easy to clean.
kmhvball is offline  
post #51 of 67 Old 06-02-2016, 07:59 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Cincitucky
Posts: 55
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 20
I repainted the trim in a darker shade. I think this looks better. This is in a satin finish since all of Lowes samples come in satin.

Newt1822 is offline  
post #52 of 67 Old 07-26-2016, 09:02 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Cincitucky
Posts: 55
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 20
A few long overdue updates. I finally got around to putting up the track lighting and patching up the holes from the failed recessed lights. I have to say I actually like the look and flexibility of the track lighting. From the seating area the track lighting is completely hidden by the soffit.



For the baseboard I did a simpler version of the LED lighted baseboard that RedStripe88 did. Since I did not have the backer board behind my baseboard I just ripped my baseboard in half at a 30 degree angle facing the floor. I then put the bottom piece on, the LEDs stick directly to the wall and the top piece above the LED strip which then leaves about a 3/8" gap between the two pieces.

This is the baseboard with the lights off, you don't really notice that the gap is actually a gap, it almost looks like the gap is part of the baseboard design from eye level.




Lights on:





And finally, the doors are painted and installed along with the new black hardware:






I still have to put up the crown molding in the ceiling tray, the carpet is ordered and should be installed in the next two weeks so I am going to try to get the crown done before the carpet is installed. Once the carpet is in I will begin work on the screen wall using the Minimalist screen wall approach.
Newt1822 is offline  
post #53 of 67 Old 07-27-2016, 08:17 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
kmhvball's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mason, Ohio
Posts: 1,122
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 569 Post(s)
Liked: 337
Things are looking good... keep it up! I think those baseboard lights look great!!
kmhvball is offline  
post #54 of 67 Old 07-29-2016, 08:20 AM
Senior Member
 
busybe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 371
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 185 Post(s)
Liked: 23
Wow, it looks great! Lot of planning and work!! I have been following your thread and impressed with how it turned out. May I ask what software you have used to create the room plan?
busybe is offline  
post #55 of 67 Old 08-01-2016, 08:16 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Cincitucky
Posts: 55
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by busybe View Post
Wow, it looks great! Lot of planning and work!! I have been following your thread and impressed with how it turned out. May I ask what software you have used to create the room plan?
Thanks, I use sketchup for my plans and drawings.
busybe likes this.
Newt1822 is offline  
post #56 of 67 Old 08-12-2016, 12:16 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Cincitucky
Posts: 55
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Carpet was installed today, It's darker than it looks in the pictures. I think it goes good with the paint color. The pictures don't do it justice.

Now to get moving on the screen wall, finishing the baseboard on the right side of the room and the crown molding in the ceiling tray.





Newt1822 is offline  
post #57 of 67 Old 08-12-2016, 01:15 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
sirjaymz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Houston<>Anchorage
Posts: 1,039
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 485 Post(s)
Liked: 580
Really Starting to come together. You and coming to the home stretch, literally with carpet installed.. Looking nice.

HT1.0 | HT2.05
JVC RS-2000 / Seymour AV Center Stage 130"diag, 2.35 / nVidia Shield
11.2(22).6 Atmos / Denon 7200WA / Denon 6300 / 2x miniDSP2x4HD / DIY treatments
2x NU6000DSP / 2x NU3000DSP / 2x Klipsch R-112SW / 4x UM18-22 / 4x PA-460 / 12x JBL 12"
Klipsch RF-82/RC-64II/RS-42/RS-41/BS-62/CDT3800-C-II
sirjaymz is online now  
post #58 of 67 Old 09-06-2016, 08:36 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Cincitucky
Posts: 55
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 20
I've been working on my screen wall on and off over the last couple of weeks and finally got it finished this weekend. I used BIGs minimalist screen wall design and could not have worked out better.

Goal posts in place and the screen frame hung for a test fit. Since I don't have a stage to attach the goal posts to I had to figure out how to secure the bottom to the floor so they don't move around. I ended up getting some adjustable feet like they put on the bottom of desks and I put them in the bottom of the posts. I left them loose enough to move them around, attached the top of the posts to a couple of the ceiling joists, then once I got the posts plumb in both directions I tightened up the feet to hold them in place.



Panels built and in place for test fit.



Now to deal with this window. My room is not sound proof so I don't expect to stop all of the sound leaking out through this window but hopefully this will help a bit. I closed the blinds, put in some pink fluffy I had laying around then build a panel out of 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF glued together on the face. The outside piece overlaps the window by about an inch, the inside pieces was cut to fit into the window frame and the entire piece sits on the windowsill and is held in place with window sash locks. The only problem is this panel is very heavy as it's basically a full sheet of 3/4" MDF cut in half and glued together. From the outside it just looks like it always has with the window blinds closed. I put the paper side of the pink fluffy towards the the binds so none of pink could be seen from the outside.

Also as you can see I painted the posts and all the frames black.







I did not get pictures of putting the screen and panels together. I used the white over black Spandex from Spandex World for the screen held in place with the screen tight tracks and spline. This is the way to go when building a DIY screen, as its so easy to take off and re stretch the spandex if needed. Then I covered the surrounding panels with JoAnn's Royal Black Velvet. I went to harbor freight and got air stapler for $26, this was money WELL spent!

And here is the result, I am very pleased with how it turned out. All of the panels line up perfectly and the panels all fit in place with no Velcro or fasteners, all friction fit. The screen is 108" wide giving me about 124" 16:9 screen.





Tedd and Squirrel! like this.

Last edited by Newt1822; 09-06-2016 at 09:05 AM.
Newt1822 is offline  
post #59 of 67 Old 09-06-2016, 08:59 AM
Senior Member
 
busybe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 371
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 185 Post(s)
Liked: 23
Wow, looks really great, how it turned out from your plan to actual!!
busybe is offline  
post #60 of 67 Old 09-06-2016, 10:18 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Cincitucky
Posts: 55
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 20
And the theater gets a name. "The Cincitucky Theater" since i'm in Cincinnati, but the Kentucky side of Cincinnati. (like the airport)
Squirrel! likes this.
Newt1822 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off