You Want Me To Move The Theater Where? - Build Thread - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 96 Old 06-17-2016, 10:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok so backer boxes it is. Just got off the phone with Ted and he confirmed. Since I am limited on width I will most likely use 5/8" OSB for the sides and 2x 1/4" Hardy board for the backs (Per Ted suggestion) - although I may just let the speakers stick out further and use 5/8 drywall. Boxes will be attached with IB-3's.

@RedStripe88 thanks again for taking the time to post and point this out.
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post #62 of 96 Old 06-18-2016, 06:29 AM - Thread Starter
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After looking at my current construction for my surrounds it is going to take some major re-work to get the speakers in and positioned corrected with IB-3 clips.

What are my other options? The wall is decoupled so what do I lose if I attach the box directly to the studs? I could do what @BIGmouthinDC 's did in his Rawlinsway build as @RedStripe88 suggested but not sure how I would finish it since I had planned on a speaker somewhat flush to the wall. If I did it that way I would have to integrate the OSB/MDF frame to drywall. I will have fabric panels over it but if I ever wanted to change anything it would difficult.

Any real time help would be greatly appreciated hoping to build the boxes today.
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post #63 of 96 Old 07-07-2016, 07:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Speaker Backer Boxes

So this is what I came up with for the speaker backer boxes - I plan to GG some cemet board in them. They are very shallow. The speakers are still supported in them but do hang out a bit. I am hoping once I put up the drywall and acoustical caulk them they will be more secure. Before I move on to enclosing them and putting up drywall would appreciate some feedback.

Do the boxes look ok as far as install with the IB-3's?
I know the speakers should float in the boxes but being so shallow should I secure the speakers to the boxes? If so how?

Thanks





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post #64 of 96 Old 07-07-2016, 10:19 AM
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Look good but you probably want some drywall in the box with some GG.

My build thread: The Unprofessional Build
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post #65 of 96 Old 07-07-2016, 11:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the feedback. I will be putting in some cement board with GG - I think the drywall would be too thick.
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post #66 of 96 Old 07-11-2016, 08:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Wife took the kids most of the weekend so I got a bunch of work done.

This is what I ended up with for my speaker boxes. 5/8 Drywall on sides and 1/4 cement board on the rears. I know I was supposed to have a bigger gap on the sides and stuff insulation but I couldn't make that work. I will use acoustical caulk on the sides. I put a piece of carpet on the bottom and was able to get some insulation in on the top. I did caulk the inside seams just don't have a picture of it.





Drywall up on the front stage area and part of the ceiling. Starting to feel like an actual room.


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post #67 of 96 Old 07-12-2016, 08:14 PM
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Looking great. A connected weekend without the kids - man, those are prime theater hours. I am hoping for one of those myself this summer.

Depending on what kind of gaps you may have on the BACK side of those backer boxes between the wall surface, you may want to back up any acoustical caulking with some mass. I used probably 2,195 bricks of electricians putty on some of those problem areas as it is very pliable and stays fairly soft even when subjected to exterior applications, so I assume it should fair better indoors. I really sticks nice to OSB due to the rough texture too if you thin out the edges a little to work it into the surface.
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post #68 of 96 Old 07-13-2016, 07:52 AM - Thread Starter
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@PApilgrim thanks for the idea I was wondering if I should try and squeeze a layer of cement board/GG on the back of the boxes.

Is this the stuff you are talking about?




I was also considering putting some dynamat (or equivalent) on them but was not sure how that would stick.
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post #69 of 96 Old 07-13-2016, 09:44 AM
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This is exactly what I used. No real research or recommendation, just knew that I had used this before from local Lowes.

http://www.lowes.com/pd/IDEAL-1-lb-B...t-Seal/3127723

I am sure what you posted is the same type of stuff, yes.

I woudl defer to a more mass vs. less mass approach regarding what to do behind/around you rbacker boxes. Aside from sealing the gaps, more mass in those areas will certainly tend to help with sound abatement.
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post #70 of 96 Old 07-18-2016, 10:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Backer Boxes & Stage

Didn't have much space behind the backer boxes so I ended up using some Peel and seal - its a cheap alternative to dynamat. Managed to get 2 layers on the boxes. While it did add some mass not sure how beneficial it will be but I figure at the very least it helped seal up the edges.





Was also able to get the front stage area caulked and stage prepped for sand.





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post #71 of 96 Old 07-25-2016, 07:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Starting to feel like a room

75% of the drywall is up (would be 100% but I ran out of GG). With most of the drywall up its actually looking like a room. I had to mock up my speakers to get some final measurements for my subs.

I already ordered 2 UM-18, have an inuke6000 and 3 sheets of MDF. Plan was for 2 MiniMarty but upon further reading I am questioning it. I have room for 2 VBSS and 1 MiniMarty not sure what would be better.







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post #72 of 96 Old 07-26-2016, 01:16 PM
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Looking good, nice progress!

That is a tightly spaced front soundstage and it looks like your sub plans will take up nearly all of the remaining square inches, wow. Is that why you are second guessing?

Assume those are DIY speaker stands - nice use of extra materials.

I have your 5g GG bucket available "in stock" at my home-based distribution center in Chambersburg PA also (sorry, sensless plug) .
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post #73 of 96 Old 08-01-2016, 08:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Drywall Complete

Was able to put in a couple full days of work in. Completed all the drywall and finished up running speaker wire for LCR and 2 subs to front stage. Also started on the equipment rack - framed up a wall and wired up my 2 dedicated 20A circuits.

The plan is to cover all walls with fabric panels therefore I am only planning on mudding the ceiling. The walls will get acoustical caulk on all the joints.






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post #74 of 96 Old 08-01-2016, 08:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Speakers

Finally after looking at empty speaker boxes for months I was able to get them completed and tested. I am very happy to report that they all work and sound great. I went ahead and did a layer of flat black on them. LCR & subs will remain that way since they are behind the screen. Volts will get duratex.

I was also highly motivated to start my sub enclosures since my UM18's will be delivered this week. I managed to get most of the cuts done but ran out of steam and will have to finish this week. I plan on starting a build thread for subs in the DIY section.









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post #75 of 96 Old 08-02-2016, 08:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Soffit Dilemma

I test fit my screen - definition of wall to wall screen? I knew how much room I would have for the soffit above the screen based on my CAD model but with the screen up I get a real feel for how tight it is going to be. There is 9" between the top of screen and the ceiling. I will mask the screen another 3" for a total of 12" from ceiling to actual screen. Plan is to build a 6" soffit which is the minimum I can do for the lights.

So I am now questioning whether or not to do anything above the screen. I could just do soffits on the side and rear, I would figure out a way to terminate the soffits in the front either at an angle or a curve. Trying to get the feel of the soffits opening up into the screen. I also have ideas of installing lights into the front stage to shine up onto the screen. Really just thinking out loud but as always I am open to opinions and other ideas.

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post #76 of 96 Old 08-11-2016, 08:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Decided to go with original soffit design we will see how it looks. Work continues....



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post #77 of 96 Old 08-15-2016, 10:20 AM - Thread Starter
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post #78 of 96 Old 08-17-2016, 09:49 AM
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All I could think about from looking at that bottom (great looking) picture was how it would be great to see a couple lego men gazing at that from the low camera vantage point, and with some clever mem style caption...

looks great and you will be moving some air for sure with that setup. What do you plan to do to absorb what seems like a boomy alcove? Maybe line all the walls back there with ductliner and stack some rockwool tye insulation in the remainder of the volume? I am no expert; just getting to this point so I can not make any suggestions based on experience. Just seems like that alcove will be a big horn of sorts for reflected sound...

Looking great.
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post #79 of 96 Old 08-17-2016, 11:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks @PApilgrim

Initially I was just going to line the alcove with linacoustic but based on your feedback and some I got in my Sub build thread I most likely will be filling it just as you said. Duct liner on all walls areas and roxul to fill the cavity. I may use rockboard (I have 2 boxes of it left over from an attempt at bass traps in my prior theater) to frame in the speakers.

@LTD02 made a nice picture of what it should look like - Link
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post #80 of 96 Old 08-25-2016, 12:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Let there be light







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post #81 of 96 Old 08-28-2016, 12:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Front Stage

Front stage rough in complete. Also decided to put up some ripped 2x4's so I can line the front wall with linacoustic. Front speaker cavity filled.









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post #82 of 96 Old 09-06-2016, 08:49 AM - Thread Starter
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This will be the last update for awhile - no more free weekends until winter. I will finish up the screen masking and bar over the next couple weeks any spare time will go to redoing my bathroom. Room is tight and I am may actually do away with the bar so by not fully finishing I have some time to use the room and see what is best. Also may shrink the screen down to 110" currently at 114".









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post #83 of 96 Old 09-06-2016, 12:06 PM
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Looks great.
What are you thinking instead of the bar?

-Aaron
English Way Cinema and Bar - moving on to v3.0... projector time in 2017!
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post #84 of 96 Old 09-07-2016, 06:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PTAaron View Post
Looks great.
What are you thinking instead of the bar?
Thanks for the feedback. Maybe fixed seating in place of the bar and going down to 2 seats in the front row - this would allow me to move the front row back a bit. Also this would give me an excuse to get rid of my POS berklines. We are a family of 5 so I want to keep 5 seats.

The issues I am having are the front row is a bit close and viewing from the bar seats is too low. I can't raise the riser any higher b/c I am afraid of people hitting the projector. Shrinking the screen will help and I can also move it up a few inches.

Hoping to keep everything as is so in my case having the projector up and testing before the room is completed should help out with the final setup.
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post #85 of 96 Old 09-09-2016, 11:51 AM
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Man you have really been chugging along. Its looking really good. Thats a good idea to hold off finishing till you get some time to experiment with the seating. What did you end up with for viewing distance for the first row? Are you thinking of making the screen smaller just to get it up higher, or do you find it too big, too close to the sidewalls, etc.?

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post #86 of 96 Old 09-12-2016, 04:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks @brian6751

My front row is at 10' screen is currently 114". It is definitely tight with the sidewalls having some reflection. It may be okay with the sidewalls a darker color. I already shifted the screen up a few inches so height wise I think I am okay - if I need too I will shrink the screen to 110". From the bar seats its perfect so I am going to give a few movies and see. I could also take 6-8" off the bar and push the front seats back.
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post #87 of 96 Old 11-01-2016, 11:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Update after use

After about 1.5 months of using the theater I have come to the following conclusions:

Soundproofing:

I think it was time/$ well spent. Yes the floors still vibrate above (and for that matter the exterior of my house does too) but I can finally listen at good levels without waking anyone up. This will improve once I install doors and I still have another layer of drywall to put on the backside of 2 walls.

Audio:

First off I have not run REW only audyssey - I will be picking up a mic this week though.

DIYsoundgroup speakers-
I think they sound awesome that is as technical as I am going to get. They fill the room nicely and dialogue is clear.

2x UM18's -
As advertised. They do need some smoothing out but they add a whole new dimension to the theater experience - I left my bass shaker in my chair just in case but that will soon be for sale. But nothing exceeds like excess and I have some additional sub plans - see below

Video:

I settled on ~114" screen, main seating at ~10.5'. I didn't think it was too big but wanted others opinion as to if they issues with viewing the whole screen or having to scan their eyes back and forth. The conclusion was no it was fine from all viewing locations.

I have had my projector and screen for awhile and in my other setup was underwhelmed with 3D. With the closer seating it is much improved.

Overall:

Some minor changes to the plan.

Door - I am going to try to build double french style doors. Still going to be hidden from the outside.

HVAC - Going to just put in a supply vent for now.

Bar - Few changes here and some more TBD. Chairs I am not sure on. I tried an ikea chair and felt it sat too low although others liked it. An office chair felt good to me. I may end up with one of each not sure yet. One thing that was shared with everyone was they wanted their feet up. My wife made the suggestion of building a ledge - I took this as a chance to incorporate some more subs.

Here is what I plan to put in.




It will house 4 - 12" near field subs. The 45° section will stick out of the bar floor with the small ledge on top people can rest their feet on either...nothing exceeds like excess and I like my bass.



I am glad I decided to use the theater for awhile before completing it. I will now push forward and hopefully get it all wrapped up over the next few months (unless of course I decided to add more subs).
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post #88 of 96 Old 11-15-2016, 11:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Starting Updates again

I am getting back up to full speed on the build in an attempt to get most of it done before the end of the year.

Finished roughing in the 'new' bar with boxes for the near field subs. Goal was to have a 45° and flat foot rest and I think it works. I have some room to position the boxes in relation to the seats so I will experiment with that before securing them with leftover IB-3's. I used some gym floor mat type material on the bottoms.









Also closed in the soffits and front area - looks much better.







Next I will be building some sort of dead vent/muffler system for the HVAC. If anyone has any leftover Linacoustic in the MD/DC/VA area that they want to get rid of let me know - I don't need much and its a waste to get 100' of the stuff.
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post #89 of 96 Old 11-15-2016, 12:15 PM
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Looking good, but I see a projector, screen, speakers and acoustical treatments in an unfinished room. We all know what that means. Reminds me of when I used my theater for a year before having the carpet installed.
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post #90 of 96 Old 11-16-2016, 07:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Big. Yes I know I broke the Cardinal Rule of avsforum theater builds BUT does it count if I had planned to it all along?

I will say I am glad I spent the $$$ on a chief projector mount. Take the projector down, cover up the screen, and go to work for the weekend - everything back up to watch movies during the week.
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