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post #61 of 206 Old 03-15-2016, 05:59 PM - Thread Starter
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So the speakers will be fine being located in that 900mm either side?

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post #62 of 206 Old 03-15-2016, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by hatlesschimp View Post
So the speakers will be fine being located in that 900mm either side?

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Honestly, I'm not an expert, just an enthusiast.
My room is not a 100% dedicated theater room, and my gear is about as low end as you can get.
Despite this, having a decent size screen and some tower speakers certainly has the wow factor when people walk in.

I think it'll look great, but at the end of the day it's up to you.
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post #63 of 206 Old 03-16-2016, 03:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Thats ok mate! I apreciate any help and youve been great! 👍

I ordered a pair of Ci5160RL-THX in wall speakers and a Ci3160RL-THX for center, down the track I will buy 4 more ci3160rl-thx for surrounds. One thing I noticed on Kefs website is I have the option to buy rough in plates for the speakers. Do I need them for my new house im building?
Also my walls are 90mm between plaster. Do I need to make these wider to fit these speakers or should I just extend a section of the wall out to fit the speakers in wall.

Here is one of my Ci200RR-Thx speakers that arrived the other day.


















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post #64 of 206 Old 03-16-2016, 03:45 PM
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I ordered a pair of Ci5160RL-THX in wall speakers and a Ci3160RL-THX for center, down the track I will buy 4 more ci3160rl-thx for surrounds.
Oh, I didn't realise these were all in wall speakers, my bad.


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One thing I noticed on Kefs website is I have the option to buy rough in plates for the speakers. Do I need them for my new house im building?
nope the cardboard "cutout template" is all you need.


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Also my walls are 90mm between plaster. Do I need to make these wider to fit these speakers or should I just extend a section of the wall out to fit the speakers in wall.
This is big a problem. Building out sections to accommodate an in wall speaker sort of defeats the purpose to me.
Does it say on that spec sheets depth = 132.6mm? If this is the deepest driver (check them all, cause they're probably different) then you'll probably need at least 150mm clearance (180mm might be better)
It would be worth discussing with your builder an option to use thicker studs, or just double stud to give you enough depth all around?
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post #65 of 206 Old 03-16-2016, 04:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Oh, I didn't realise these were all in wall speakers, my bad.



nope the cardboard "cutout template" is all you need.



This is big a problem. Building out sections to accommodate an in wall speaker sort of defeats the purpose to me.
Does it say on that spec sheets depth = 132.6mm? If this is the deepest driver (check them all, cause they're probably different) then you'll probably need at least 150mm clearance (180mm might be better)
It would be worth discussing with your builder an option to use thicker studs, or just double stud to give you enough depth all around?
Kef website says 99mm (3.9") mounting depth.

So I have 90mm stud then 10mm plaster. I will see if I can get 16mm plaster and that will give me 7mm in theory. Will that be enough?

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post #66 of 206 Old 03-16-2016, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hatlesschimp View Post
Kef website says 99mm (3.9") mounting depth.

So I have 90mm stud then 10mm plaster. I will see if I can get 16mm plaster and that will give me 7mm in theory. Will that be enough?
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In theory yes. But 7mm is not a lot.
Other options I can think of would be
  • 100mm stud
  • Double plasterboard

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post #67 of 206 Old 03-16-2016, 05:16 PM
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Hey mate. I just noticed this thread! Good to see another Aussie doing a HT the right way! Right from the beginning.

Funnily enough, I am a building designer myself. I run my own business from home and spend way too much time here during the day. It's true that 7mm is not a lot of room to spare there, however it will technically fit.

One thing I would suggest is using Fyrchek in there if the builder will accommodate that. It will give you a bit better sound isolation due it's density, and will be 16mm giving you an extra 6mm of depth over the standard 10mm plasterboard there.
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post #68 of 206 Old 03-16-2016, 07:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey mate. I just noticed this thread! Good to see another Aussie doing a HT the right way! Right from the beginning.

Funnily enough, I am a building designer myself. I run my own business from home and spend way too much time here during the day. It's true that 7mm is not a lot of room to spare there, however it will technically fit.

One thing I would suggest is using Fyrchek in there if the builder will accommodate that. It will give you a bit better sound isolation due it's density, and will be 16mm giving you an extra 6mm of depth over the standard 10mm plasterboard there.
Am I doing it the right way lol. Thanks for offering me some help. Will great to hear what you come up with. Cheers!

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post #69 of 206 Old 03-24-2016, 09:23 AM - Thread Starter
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So I tried to think outside the box with the house plan to fix the Theatre room access and Rack placement. The rack was driving me bonkers because My wife wouldn't go any smaller on the study room and didn't want the rack in the garage. Also I didnt think having the rack in the garage was a good idea either but mainly because of her parking skills but I told her it was for dust and moisture .

So i had to extend the study out but it works nice with a grand style entrance to the Theatre off the main living room and depending on orientation of the door/s it be left open some times, there will be a 0.6cm x 4m windows at the back / exterior wall up high. The rack stays in the closet. I will double stud the hallway wall. The garage got extended to the fence line boundary. the hallway near front door gets a little wider and the master wir gets moved down giving bed 2 some more room and the master a little. Garage entry point has been rotated 90 degrees. Depending on price I may have to sacrifice a little bit of the alfresco roofed area to keep us in budget.

What do you think. Is it better?
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post #70 of 206 Old 03-24-2016, 09:44 AM
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can you swing the double doors out instead of in? Then you can leave them open and not block anything going on and improve the traffic pattern.
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post #71 of 206 Old 03-25-2016, 11:38 AM
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Hi guys,
I have a question which I can not find an answer for but hopefully someone can help me out.
I am trying to find out if I can install the KEF Ci5160 into a drywall which is setup with 2x4 studs? Do these speakers need breathing room? If the speakers fit, they probably would almost touch the backside of the opposite drywall! Would that be OK?
Thanks
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post #72 of 206 Old 03-25-2016, 02:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi guys,
I have a question which I can not find an answer for but hopefully someone can help me out.
I am trying to find out if I can install the KEF Ci5160 into a drywall which is setup with 2x4 studs? Do these speakers need breathing room? If the speakers fit, they probably would almost touch the backside of the opposite drywall! Would that be OK?
Thanks
Well here in australia we use 90mm stud and 10mm plaster sheet as standard. So with that in mind i think there is 1mm gap. Im going 16mm fyrchek plaster and that will give me 7mm. But my ci5160's will be mounted on a double stud wall so i will easily have room. The ci3160 will be used in single studded walls and as surrounds but i think they have a depth of 76mm from memory.

I recon just put up another layer of plaster and you will be fine.


**** sorry but does 2x4 mean 2 inches by 4 inches? If thats the case you have heaps of room.

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post #73 of 206 Old 03-26-2016, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hatlesschimp View Post
So I tried to think outside the box with the house plan to fix the Theatre room access and Rack placement. The rack was driving me bonkers because My wife wouldn't go any smaller on the study room and didn't want the rack in the garage. Also I didnt think having the rack in the garage was a good idea either but mainly because of her parking skills but I told her it was for dust and moisture .

So i had to extend the study out but it works nice with a grand style entrance to the Theatre off the main living room and depending on orientation of the door/s it be left open some times, there will be a 0.6cm x 4m windows at the back / exterior wall up high. The rack stays in the closet. I will double stud the hallway wall. The garage got extended to the fence line boundary. the hallway near front door gets a little wider and the master wir gets moved down giving bed 2 some more room and the master a little. Garage entry point has been rotated 90 degrees. Depending on price I may have to sacrifice a little bit of the alfresco roofed area to keep us in budget.

What do you think. Is it better?
Overall I think this is a great layout !

I agree with BIG that the theatre doors should swing out rather than in. You also need to be aware that double doors are very difficult to soundproof - if it was me I'd change back to a single door.

Cheers,
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post #74 of 206 Old 03-26-2016, 09:09 PM
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If you keep the theatre entry the same width, but with a single door, the side walls would make great storage for discs and stuff.

Cheers,
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post #75 of 206 Old 03-28-2016, 11:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok so here is the final plans drawn up today. What do you think? Thanks for the help lads!!!











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post #76 of 206 Old 03-29-2016, 04:15 PM
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Howdy/belated Welcome!

Its nice to see another Aussie build on AVS.....you've got the name wrong though, you need "downunder" in the title to be a serious Australian HT on AVS

If you've not stumbled across it before, have a look at the first page or two of my build for sourcing all things you might want/need in Australia. Although in saying that, if you're not going down the soundproof path it wont be of as much use.

You own your speakers already from the sounds of it?

Not doing an AT screen? (I think you said no....pity, its the ducks nuts to have one)

If you need help in Melbourne check out Red Spade Audio, Paul Spencer is a great source of (a) knowledge and (b) custom speakers

Best of luck with the build!
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post #77 of 206 Old 03-29-2016, 09:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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If you keep the theatre entry the same width, but with a single door, the side walls would make great storage for discs and stuff.

Cheers,
Thanks Peter for the tips. As you can see I added enough room on one side to store blu ray like you said. I have the doors open inwards but they confuse me. Sam from QHD Homes said maybe I could make one of the doors sliding cavity. Im scared my 2 18" subs will rattle it to pieces. My wife wants an ironing board out near the living room so that hinders any chances of sliding on the outside door. Inside obviously impacts any in wall speakers potentially.

BTW nice Theatre! I feel blessed you have stopped by! Cheers

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post #78 of 206 Old 03-29-2016, 09:43 PM
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You definitely don't want cavity sliders !

It looks much better now, but a couple of questions / comments on the lobby. I assume that's a hole in the wall between the equipment room and lobby so your gear is visible ? I'd swing the outer lobby door from the other side so that both doors cover the storage area when open.

Cheers,
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post #79 of 206 Old 03-29-2016, 10:04 PM - Thread Starter
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You definitely don't want cavity sliders !

It looks much better now, but a couple of questions / comments on the lobby. I assume that's a hole in the wall between the equipment room and lobby so your gear is visible ? I'd swing the outer lobby door from the other side so that both doors cover the storage area when open.

Cheers,
Only thing is with that both 920mm doors hit each other. I really dont want to make the room any smaller in width. Im also scared to go smaller on the doors and not be able to get any chairs in. Actually i havent even done the calculations to see if chairs will fit through the lobby. Yikes!

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post #80 of 206 Old 03-29-2016, 10:17 PM
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How wide can you go with the doors just clearing each other ?

FWIW my doors are 820mm and the chairs went in no problems. They came in pieces and were assembled in-room.

Cheers,
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post #81 of 206 Old 03-30-2016, 02:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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How wide can you go with the doors just clearing each other ?

FWIW my doors are 820mm and the chairs went in no problems. They came in pieces and were assembled in-room.

Cheers,
AWESOME! What chairs do you have? Would you recommend? Cheers again!

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post #82 of 206 Old 03-30-2016, 08:41 PM
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I'm really liking your plans.


Why not make the inside door a cavity and
leave no door on the outside?
or skinny double doors on the outside?
or skinny glass double doors on the outside? (frosted or curtained)
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post #83 of 206 Old 03-30-2016, 09:15 PM
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AWESOME! What chairs do you have? Would you recommend? Cheers again!
My chairs are from IMG. They appear to have changed their models - this is the nearest to mine -

IMG Monza

Don't be put off by the "Norway" labelling - they're made in Asia.

Cheers,
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post #84 of 206 Old 05-04-2016, 06:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Have to update the original post. Many developments. Lol
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post #85 of 206 Old 05-04-2016, 06:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Going to add a soffit/bulkhead too. Its a shallow one because my ceiling height is only 2550mm. So thinking 150mm to 200mm from the ceiling down and 300mm to 400mm extended from the wall and obviously some beautiful led strip lighting. Will add some led downlights into it as I work out where they are needed. I might need to make some back boxes that extend from ceiling to floor to house the surround Ci3160RL-Thx and stick out into the room.



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post #86 of 206 Old 05-04-2016, 06:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is the Kef in walls. Although they dont need to be opened for 6 months I just had to have a look at them lol.

They look so pretty!



Here is the JVC x7000 in our bedroom lol
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post #87 of 206 Old 05-07-2016, 07:16 PM
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Here is a suggestion for your subs and mains based on the various threads of yours that I have seen recently. If you are doing the baffle wall with AT screen like you have indicated, mount your subs between the LCR speakers and prepare wiring and blank plates so that you can add two more subs in the future. If you're up to DIY the mains, consider an active LCR setup with something like the following, which would allow you to run the mains active and split off your single sub output to multiple subs:

SEOS-18 waveguide: http://www.diysoundgroup.com/plastic-seos-12.html
DNA-260 Compression Driver: http://www.diysoundgroup.com/compres...s/dna-360.html
Dual AE TD15M woofers: http://aespeakers.com/shop/td/td15m/
MiniDSP10x10HD: https://www.minidsp.com/products/min...nidsp-10x10-hd
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post #88 of 206 Old 05-09-2016, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
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Here is the Kef in walls. Although they dont need to be opened for 6 months I just had to have a look at them lol.

They look so pretty!



Here is the JVC x7000 in our bedroom lol

Of course you had to open the box. I did the same back in Dec with my projector and the T-18's. Then they went back in the boxes for 4 1/2 Looooong months haha.
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post #89 of 206 Old 05-09-2016, 07:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Of course you had to open the box. I did the same back in Dec with my projector and the T-18's. Then they went back in the boxes for 4 1/2 Looooong months haha.
Still debating if I use these in my system. Im just wondering if they will be a significant improvement over my q900s or the Krix speakers ive taken a liking too. But visually they are amazing but will end up hidden behind a Acoustic Transparent screen. Lol
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post #90 of 206 Old 05-23-2016, 02:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Just Hopked up the Samsung K8500 UHD player to my X7000 and im blown away! I havent played with the settings. Not sure if it gets any better but this looks great! Worth every cent!
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