Cranky's Cavern - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 273 Old 08-25-2016, 11:38 AM - Thread Starter
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I just realized I may have hit another snag. This thread doesn't have a lot of traffic, so I may have to pose this questions elsewhere. I can't believe with all my researching and planning that I missed this one. Someone above asked about my equipment plans, which made me think about my projector. I have an older Mitsubishi HC3800. The picture still looked great, I had noticed the picture didn't pop as much as it once had, but a new bulb is still cheaper than a new projector right now (which isn't in the budget with the rest of the theater to finish).

Anyway, here's the dilemma. I have 10' ceilings. But I added a soffit around the room which dropped the perimeter down 13". And then, I obviously added the two risers for a total of 16". The stage is around 8" tall (going from memory, I'm at work). I don't have a place for an equipment rack, so I will have to have cabinetry under the screen to house electronic items like my HTPC, inuke, etc. I had considered the throw of my projector for the approx screen size that I wanted; however, I hadn't paid attention to the fact that when ceiling mounting that the calculator on proj-cntrl suggests that the bottom of the lens be 26" above the top of the screen for 2.35 or 18" for 1.78. Ouch. I need to throw all this in CAD, but if I have to drop down 2 feet from the 9' soffit for the top of the screen....then the bottom would be really low. I think that might not be the best experience with my taller risers. I assume the recommended drop is to avoid digital keystoning? I have read where some people with that projector "cheated" by angling the projector up slightly, and then correcting with keystoning. I don't know if that is an option, but does anyone have any suggestions or input?
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post #62 of 273 Old 08-26-2016, 08:25 PM
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Oh, don't give me that DD. I've been through your whole build thread, and you are anythign but lazy!
Lol thanks Cranky. My lazyness stops me from doing the complicated things you are taking on. I started on fabric frames and I'm tempted to scrap it because it's taking to much time XD

My build thread: The Unprofessional Build
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post #63 of 273 Old 08-27-2016, 08:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Lol thanks Cranky. My lazyness stops me from doing the complicated things you are taking on. I started on fabric frames and I'm tempted to scrap it because it's taking to much time XD
Yeah, I'm not looking forward to the fabric frame stage either. I also realized after the fact....that due to the way that I did my wainscoting transition to the lower riser, that I will have fabric frames with angels at the bottom, ugh.
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post #64 of 273 Old 08-27-2016, 10:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Got the trim around the raised panels installed. Next up, I'll probably grab chair rail and then primer. I will probably hold off on the base board until I have narrowed my carpet selection down.
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post #65 of 273 Old 08-29-2016, 07:06 AM - Thread Starter
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I was able to get the chair rail knocked, holes filled and caulked and then some primer.
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post #66 of 273 Old 09-02-2016, 10:39 PM
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About the pj, any way to mount it in the soffit? Or a hush box in front of the soffit? Or is this already taking that into consideration? I think the tilt up a little and perhaps angle the screen down slightly to compensate would be fine if that's what you're left with. Priority would be for the second row seating to be able to see the bottom of the screen.

As for acoustic treatments, I think the bass is one of the most important things to tackle, which I see you are planning to have traps in the corners. I would look into limp mass or helmholtz resonator style bass traps as the are more effective in pressure areas (walls, corners), and resistive type absorbers are most effective at slowing the sound wave at it's velocity peak (1/4 & 3/4 wavelength away from a boundary).

The next thing I'd look at curbing is the back wall reflection from the mains with absorption and diffusion on the side walls adjacent to listeners to prevent flutter echoes and help the surrounds create a diffuse sound field and add to spaciousness.
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post #67 of 273 Old 09-06-2016, 09:49 AM - Thread Starter
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About the pj, any way to mount it in the soffit? Or a hush box in front of the soffit? Or is this already taking that into consideration? I think the tilt up a little and perhaps angle the screen down slightly to compensate would be fine if that's what you're left with. Priority would be for the second row seating to be able to see the bottom of the screen.

As for acoustic treatments, I think the bass is one of the most important things to tackle, which I see you are planning to have traps in the corners. I would look into limp mass or helmholtz resonator style bass traps as the are more effective in pressure areas (walls, corners), and resistive type absorbers are most effective at slowing the sound wave at it's velocity peak (1/4 & 3/4 wavelength away from a boundary).

The next thing I'd look at curbing is the back wall reflection from the mains with absorption and diffusion on the side walls adjacent to listeners to prevent flutter echoes and help the surrounds create a diffuse sound field and add to spaciousness.
Thanks smo0thie. Well, I considered putting it in the soffit (and Big suggested that in another post), but there are a couple of problems with that. A) This is a temporary situation. My projector is older and I will eventually replace it (once the wallet recovers from the theater build). That projector has a very short throw compared to most, so inevitibly to keep the same screen size with a new projector, I would have to move it back and rework all the crown and soffit. But another obstacle is I have a can light right in the center where the projector would need to go. I agree, the priority needs to be for the second row to be able to see the bottom of the screen. I think I will probably set the projector on a ladder and then hang a sheet or something to see if I could mount the projector in the right position and angle it up slightly and then keystone adjust to see how it impacts the picture. It sounds like several people have done that with this projector.

I will look into helmholtz and limp mass. I have seen helmholzt mentioned before, but am not familiar. I'm not locked in on anythign "above" the wainscoting (design wise), so I can do some further research on some of your suggestions to see what my options are. Thanks for taking the time!
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post #68 of 273 Old 09-06-2016, 01:39 PM
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Nice work thus far, keep pushing

Wish I had some advice, but I am just a lowly lurker till my next home..

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post #69 of 273 Old 09-06-2016, 05:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Nice work thus far, keep pushing

Wish I had some advice, but I am just a lowly lurker till my next home..
Thanks dRwOOD. Lurkers are fine by me. I think I was a member on these forums for 8 years before my recent build thread...lurking and taking in info. Thanks for stopping by!
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post #70 of 273 Old 09-07-2016, 09:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Just a small update.....got the first coat of paint on the trim.

Also, a close up of the "door" on my column with trim hiding the openings.
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post #71 of 273 Old 09-07-2016, 02:05 PM
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This theater is fantastic - I love the trim work you have done so far and will be using it as a reference point when the time comes in my build (soon!).
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post #72 of 273 Old 09-07-2016, 04:44 PM
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What kind of black paint is that? Mouse Ears? Flat Black? How is it with finger prints/smudges?

My build thread: The Unprofessional Build
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post #73 of 273 Old 09-07-2016, 05:08 PM
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That trim is amazing!

I don't know if his is mouse ears flat black - but that's what I have on my door, casing, and back wall - doesn't show much in the way of smudges, and what does show is easy to clean.

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post #74 of 273 Old 09-07-2016, 06:44 PM - Thread Starter
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What kind of black paint is that? Mouse Ears? Flat Black? How is it with finger prints/smudges?


Hey DD! In the beginning I actually sampled a lot of different flat blacks. I assumed I would use mouse ears, since it's such a popular choice around here...but I found a Benjamin Moore color I actually like better as it seemed like a deeper black to me. That's what I painted the ceiling with. When it came to the trim, I started with that same paint....it just didn't look very good to me...so I compromised and went with the same color in an eggshell sheen. Looks so much better. Just a slight sheen, but not really reflective. I can post the actual color if anyone is interested.


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post #75 of 273 Old 09-07-2016, 06:44 PM - Thread Starter
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That trim is amazing!

I don't know if his is mouse ears flat black - but that's what I have on my door, casing, and back wall - doesn't show much in the way of smudges, and what does show is easy to clean.


Wow, thanks so much!!


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post #76 of 273 Old 09-07-2016, 06:47 PM - Thread Starter
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This theater is fantastic - I love the trim work you have done so far and will be using it as a reference point when the time comes in my build (soon!).


Man, that is really an awesome compliment! I referenced so many awesome builds and "stole" so many ideas from others on here. I'm thrilled if I'm able to help or inspire someone else in some small way.


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post #77 of 273 Old 09-09-2016, 10:35 PM
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Very nice! Those columns and trim are looking sharp!
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post #78 of 273 Old 09-15-2016, 06:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Very nice! Those columns and trim are looking sharp!
Thanks! Slow and steady wins the race? That's what I keep telling myself.
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post #79 of 273 Old 09-15-2016, 06:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Well it's been a little while since I posted an update. Not too much to report (at least not that you can see). I started painting the star ceiling last weekend. I'm probably 90% done, but I don't have a good camera, so I can't capture even a decent picture to post.

On a separate note, I started on the oak trim around the theater. Here are the "caps" to the little steps. I left a gap underneath so I can put LED strip lights under there.
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post #80 of 273 Old 09-15-2016, 07:18 AM - Thread Starter
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I figured since I had jumped into the oak already, that I would start working on the trim on the stage. Starting to come together.
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post #81 of 273 Old 09-15-2016, 07:30 AM - Thread Starter
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I thought I might share my method for attacking the curves and "odd" shapes. I know most folks just hit it with the jigsaw, but I don't know if I'm just "jigsaw impaired" or what, but I can't seem to cut a smooth curve despite having decent tools. And oak is tough to sand. What I have found works well for me is, since my radius' (radii?) are constant (opposed to variable like an ellipse), I just traced a small section onto a piece of 1/4" mdf. Yes, I still have to cut with a jigsaw, but the wavy curves sand much quicker and easier. I then used some double sided tape (a couple bucks at walmart, called "carpet tape...I use it a lot for pattern routing). I then laid out all my wood and then traced the line and cut "close" to the line. Next, I just attached my mdf pattern and routered with a pattern bit. I know it's a little more work, but the end result is better for ME. The small steps I previously did have a curve in the back and front, so I used this method for them too. Just sharing in case it helps anyone.
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post #82 of 273 Old 09-15-2016, 08:33 AM
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I don't know if I'm just "jigsaw impaired" or what, but I can't seem to cut a smooth curve despite having decent tools.
If you need a smooth cut, try using a different blade. I like my jigsaw but my lines are never straight. Really nothing I cut is straight no matter what tool I use

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post #83 of 273 Old 09-15-2016, 08:38 AM - Thread Starter
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If you need a smooth cut, try using a different blade. I like my jigsaw but my lines are never straight. Really nothing I cut is straight no matter what tool I use
Thanks DD, yeah I've tried several (including the Bosch T101A0 which is supposed to be one of the best for cutting curves). I think it's more of a user issue more than a blade problem...my solution was more to address my short comings
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post #84 of 273 Old 09-26-2016, 08:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Well it's been about two weeks since I posted an update. Unfortunately, I don't have too much to report. I finally finished my painted star ceiling. It turned out good. Unfortunately, I can't seem to get even a decent picture with my phone camera despite trying for the better part of 30 minutes.

I did start on the acoustic treatments for the screen wall. Started with the corner traps.

The vaulted ceiling created a bit of a challenge to figure out how I wanted to address that.
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post #85 of 273 Old 09-26-2016, 08:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Next up was duct liner on screen wall. I ended up bringing the bass traps all the way up onto the vaulted ceiling (the duct liner as well). I also started working on the cabinetry. The 1099 was in the picture to insure I had enough room behind the screen.
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post #86 of 273 Old 10-04-2016, 12:10 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm continuing with cabinet construction. I mentioned it earlier, but I don't have an external spot for electronics etc, so everything related to the theater will have to be contained within this cabinetry.

And I also mentioned earlier that I can't cut a straight curve with a jigsaw to save my life....so I created what has to be one of the biggest DIY router trammels ever built lol.
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post #87 of 273 Old 10-04-2016, 02:46 PM
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Subscribed!

The amount of work you've done by yourself coupled with the professional look of your handy work is impressive to say the least. Keep it up and good luck!
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post #88 of 273 Old 10-05-2016, 07:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Subscribed!

The amount of work you've done by yourself coupled with the professional look of your handy work is impressive to say the least. Keep it up and good luck!
1st Cav, thank you very much! That is a great compliment. I have gone through several levels of this project. I was super excited to get going, then I was jazzed about having started, but I started this thing back in April, so mid-way, I started to get burned out...and then found myself saying "well it will be dark, no one will notice"....and at that point I realized that I didn't want to put in this much work just to cut unnecessary corners....so I took a bit of a break. I'm feeling better now, and starting to ramp it back up. Hopefully it turns out good. Thank you for stopping by!
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post #89 of 273 Old 10-05-2016, 12:05 PM - Thread Starter
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I meant to mention, that I could tell an immediate difference once I installed the duct liner on the screen wall. I was amazed at how well it tamed the echoes in the room. I just thought I would mention it, because I have seen a couple "is it worth it" threads. Although I haven't done any official testing, my "ear test" has approved the expense. Just my 2 cents!
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post #90 of 273 Old 10-05-2016, 12:46 PM
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Hi Cranky,

we may be related. My skills with a jig-saw match yours. Thankfully, I haven't been working in Oak, just OSB and mdf, so haven't needed to become quite as radical as your router technique to achieve what I've needed - so far!

I do have a question for you though. I'm looking at putting hardwood nosings on my steps etc. How much of an overhang have you created, and how deep are your oak nosings on your stage? Would they be sufficiently large to work as nosings on a step that is actually used as a step (if you see what I mean)?

Looking great!
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